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A Perfect Hermitage – The 2015 Jaboulet La Chapelle: September 2018

The Legendary 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage “La Chapelle”, Rhone 2015 750ML ($319.95) Buy Now: $236

hermitage hillThe 2015 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle has already reached legendary status. Between the wine’s consistently excellent track record and the quality of the 2015 vintage, we knew that this was going to be a wine to pay attention to. Jeb Dunnuck rated the wine a perfect 100 points and it was the highest rated Northern Rhone in Vinous (98 points). All of this is to say that we expect this to remain a coveted wine for decades to come (and for good reason).

The hill of Hermitage is both one of the most famous wine landmarks in the world and also so much more interesting than common lore purports it to be. The story goes that the hill of Hermitage was the home of a knight seeking solace from the horrors of the Crusades upon his return home. He planted the vineyards that would become Hermitage and then built a chapel to pray in and that building, the Chapel of Saint Christopher, is the defining marker of the hillside. The name, Hermitage, takes the name of the hermit’s refuge.

In reality, the hill of Hermitage has probably been planted since the time of the Romans (if not before) and is composed of three hillsides, which range from very granitic soils to more of a sandy clay. There is a lot of soil variation over the 137 hectares of vines and that variation means that the different lieu-dits all have their own personality. Most of the top producers, like Chave and Jaboulet, own land across the slope, but several offer bottlings from individual parcels.

Jaboulet purchased the Chapel of Saint Christopher and the surrounding plot of land in 1919—possibly the choicest part of the whole appellation. This is the core of their blend for La Chapelle, which for many defines what Hermitage can be. The 2015 version is a true legend in the making and we expect this will be a wine that is talked about reverentially in twenty years. We have a small parcel for sale, in stock now.

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage “La Chapelle”, Rhone 2015 750ML ($319.95) Buy Now: $236
Jeb Dunnuck 100 points “Lastly, and a legendary wine in the making, the 2015 Hermitage La jaboulet hermitageChapelle is reminiscent of the 1990 with its full-bodied, opulently, sexy, yet concentrated style. Offering sensational notes of blackcurrants, smoked herbs, beef blood, and chocolate, it’s a huge yet elegant wine that has masses of sweet tannin, incredible purity and finesse, and a killer finish. It’s the finest wine from this estate in close to 30 years. Hats off to Caroline Fray and Jacques Desvernois!”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 98 points “Bright purple. Explosive, smoke- and spice-accented blueberry, cherry cola, incense and smoky mineral aromas show outstanding delineation and pick up a hint of olive with aeration. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering deeply concentrated dark berry liqueur, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors, along with a suggestion of star anise. The remarkably long, penetrating finish features strong minerally cut, an echo of sweet blue fruit and harmonious tannins that come in late and fold effortlessly into the deeply concentrated fruit. At this stage, this is a contender for the wine of the vintage, at least by estimation.”
Wine Advocate 97-100 points “A wine that might surpass the 2009 and 2010 is the 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle, which has more than a passing resemblance to the 1990. This inky black/blue-colored Hermitage offers an off-the-charts array of blackberries, blueberries, crushed rocks, wood smoke and charred meats. Thick, unctuous, full-bodied and incredibly layered, with sweet tannin, it’s a tour de force that’s going to have three to four decades of longevity.”

Wine of the Day: Antoniolo ‘Osso San Grato’, Gattinara DOCG 2008 5-5-16

Antoniolo San Grato 2008Antoniolo ‘Osso San Grato’, Gattinara DOCG 2008 750ML ($79.95) Buy Now: $69 special

Why we love it: An all-around goldmine. Aromas, flavor, body, the whole bit. Such pretty, surprising fruit with an enduring freshness. The ‘08s from Gattinara are in a really wonderful place right now. Please buy all of these so that I don’t have to! – Tyler

Antonio Galloni 94 points “Another wine that has developed beautifully over the last year, the 2008 Gattinara Osso San Grato impresses for its layered, inviting personality. Sweet tobacco, herbs, menthol, coffee and plums meld together nicely in the glass. This is a surprisingly textured, voluptuous Osso San Grato with terrific potential for the future, although it is quite beautiful, even today. The aromatics and tannins show some elements of development, but the wine is still a bit fresher on the palate.” AG

Wine of the Day: Crowley Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2014 5-4-16

Crowley WV Chard 14Crowley Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($26.95) Buy Now: $21.90 special

“The 2014 offering from Crowley shows their classic notes of dried ginger and golden apples with a brisk acidity.  The wine was raised in neutral French oak barrels for 16 months and offers a creamy texture from the extended lees aging along with a bright mineral finish that lasts for several minutes.  It is all declassified Four Winds Vineyard fruit comprised of 1/3 Dijon clone and 2/3 Wente clone.  (The 2013 release saw no Wente as this later-ripening variety was negatively affected by the rain.)  A remarkable offering, as always, that would pair well with a range of foods or be enjoyable on its own to sip and ponder.” -Suzanne

Winery note “Comprised of Wente and Dijon clones from Four Winds Vineyard this wine demonstrates the undeniable pedigree and personality of this fantastic high elevation and old vine site.  Light straw with a hint of green combine with pristine clarity to present this wonderful Chardonnay. The aromatics include slate, anise and pear, with a trace amount of barrel toast.  Buoyant acidity frames a lean palate beaming with citrus, mineral and white peach, along with background sweetness provided by lees contact. Clarity and precision highlight this refreshing and versatile Chardonnay.”

Wine of the Day: JB Becker Martinsthaler Rodchen Spatlese Trocken 1990 5-3-16

Becker 1990JB Becker Martinsthaler Rodchen Spatlese Trocken 1990 750ML ($59.95) Buy Now: $49 special

My, how time flies! Much as I don’t want to make anyone feel old, I’d like to highlight the fact that Milli Vanilli were the biggest thing in the world at the time this wine was made. While the R&B duo from West Germany may have soared –peaked-crashed-and-burned, Hans-Joseph Becker from the Rheingau has only now begun to enjoy the spotlight. At 70!

I drew out Sunday night’s dinner with little tipples from this old bottle – a dark brown, star-stamped bottle from which copper-gold splashed out brilliantly. In the decanter, the wine caught candlelight in so gorgeous a way I literally sighed. Then came drinking! At once, a sense of energy and integration, yet I could easily sift through the layers to reveal essences which had been tucked away across the past quarter-century.  Over time, orange rind and sea mist gave way to lime, rain-soaked stones, and a delicate hint of petrol. I’d describe it as charming, deliberate, and tangible; as fun as it is serious.

Mr. Becker farms organically and prefers native yeast fermentation, but seems to make no fuss of either.  Fermentation takes place in pressurized tanks in order to achieve it quickly and steadily; Becker then racks the wine into barrel for at least two years of aging. Many bottlings are held back for years and years and years. As my comrades at Vom Boden – Becker’s US importer – phrase it, “go as quick as you can; then slam on the brakes and wait out all the others.” Not unlike Milli Vanilli, you could say, except that the voice is entirely Becker’s own.

– Tyler