Tag Archives: french wine

A Perfect Hermitage – The 2015 Jaboulet La Chapelle: September 2018

The Legendary 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage “La Chapelle”, Rhone 2015 750ML ($319.95) Buy Now: $236

hermitage hillThe 2015 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle has already reached legendary status. Between the wine’s consistently excellent track record and the quality of the 2015 vintage, we knew that this was going to be a wine to pay attention to. Jeb Dunnuck rated the wine a perfect 100 points and it was the highest rated Northern Rhone in Vinous (98 points). All of this is to say that we expect this to remain a coveted wine for decades to come (and for good reason).

The hill of Hermitage is both one of the most famous wine landmarks in the world and also so much more interesting than common lore purports it to be. The story goes that the hill of Hermitage was the home of a knight seeking solace from the horrors of the Crusades upon his return home. He planted the vineyards that would become Hermitage and then built a chapel to pray in and that building, the Chapel of Saint Christopher, is the defining marker of the hillside. The name, Hermitage, takes the name of the hermit’s refuge.

In reality, the hill of Hermitage has probably been planted since the time of the Romans (if not before) and is composed of three hillsides, which range from very granitic soils to more of a sandy clay. There is a lot of soil variation over the 137 hectares of vines and that variation means that the different lieu-dits all have their own personality. Most of the top producers, like Chave and Jaboulet, own land across the slope, but several offer bottlings from individual parcels.

Jaboulet purchased the Chapel of Saint Christopher and the surrounding plot of land in 1919—possibly the choicest part of the whole appellation. This is the core of their blend for La Chapelle, which for many defines what Hermitage can be. The 2015 version is a true legend in the making and we expect this will be a wine that is talked about reverentially in twenty years. We have a small parcel for sale, in stock now.

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage “La Chapelle”, Rhone 2015 750ML ($319.95) Buy Now: $236
Jeb Dunnuck 100 points “Lastly, and a legendary wine in the making, the 2015 Hermitage La jaboulet hermitageChapelle is reminiscent of the 1990 with its full-bodied, opulently, sexy, yet concentrated style. Offering sensational notes of blackcurrants, smoked herbs, beef blood, and chocolate, it’s a huge yet elegant wine that has masses of sweet tannin, incredible purity and finesse, and a killer finish. It’s the finest wine from this estate in close to 30 years. Hats off to Caroline Fray and Jacques Desvernois!”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 98 points “Bright purple. Explosive, smoke- and spice-accented blueberry, cherry cola, incense and smoky mineral aromas show outstanding delineation and pick up a hint of olive with aeration. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering deeply concentrated dark berry liqueur, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors, along with a suggestion of star anise. The remarkably long, penetrating finish features strong minerally cut, an echo of sweet blue fruit and harmonious tannins that come in late and fold effortlessly into the deeply concentrated fruit. At this stage, this is a contender for the wine of the vintage, at least by estimation.”
Wine Advocate 97-100 points “A wine that might surpass the 2009 and 2010 is the 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle, which has more than a passing resemblance to the 1990. This inky black/blue-colored Hermitage offers an off-the-charts array of blackberries, blueberries, crushed rocks, wood smoke and charred meats. Thick, unctuous, full-bodied and incredibly layered, with sweet tannin, it’s a tour de force that’s going to have three to four decades of longevity.”

Wine of the Day: Luneau-Papin Terre de Pierre Muscadet 2012 11-4-16

Luneau-Papin Muscadet “Terre de Pierre” 2012 ($29.95) Buy Now: $24 Special

Saul:

Luneau-Papin is one of the two or three best producers of Muscadet. That’s sort of a blessing and a curse. Why a curse? Well, Luneau-Papin is one of the best couple of producers of the greatest white wine value in France.  For quality, profundity and deliciousness, the wines stand toe-to-toe with wines that cost several times as much, and yet somehow, they don’t get the respect that’s accorded even middling producers of white Burgundy. Luneau-Papin Terre de Pierre 2012

That should change, and if you want a wine to help you see the light, we’ve got you covered today.  Luneau-Papin’s Muscadet “Terre de Pierre” 2012 is a masterpiece of a Muscadet, made in a style that marries the minerality and freshness you’d expect from the region with longer aging to provide richness and depth that are uncommon.  This wine comes from a single parcel of decomposed rocky soil and is fermented natively and aged for 20 months before bottling.  The result is a wine that is both rich and powerful as well as zesty and fresh—in short, a singular wine that deserves attention.

If this were Burgundy, I hesitate to speculate what it would cost (there’s a lot of mediocre white Burgundy selling for $60-$100) but because this is from a humble little corner of the Loire and is made from Melon d’Bourgogne instead of Chardonnay, it’s $24.

John Gilman 94 points “This is a great site, with a unique geological composition of red igneous rock and the 2012 is a truly brilliant bottle of Muscadet, offering up a vibrant and magically complex bouquet of tart orange, lemon, ocean breeze, kaleidoscopic minerality, gentle leesiness, citrus zest and a nice touch of lemongrass in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and very complex, with great cut and focus, a rock solid core and outstanding length and grip on the laser-like finish. The 2010 la Butte de la Roche was probably the finest young Muscadet I have ever tasted, and the 2012 is an awfully strong follow-up. 2014-2030+.”

Wine of the Day: Philippe Pacalet Moulin a Vent 9-8-16

Philippe Pacalet Moulin A Vent, Beaujolais, France 2014 750ML ($59.95) Buy Now $49 special

Philippe Pacalet Moulin A Vent, Beaujolais, France 2014

Philippe Pacalet Moulin A Vent, Beaujolais, France 2014

Never patient when it comes to Beaujolais, I drank Pacalet’s intrepid Moulin-a-Vent the very night it arrived at our shop. A simple salmon dish served as accompaniment, and I poured some out into a decanter in order to contrast normal and accelerated evolution of the wine as it aerated. Cherry aromas soared out of the glass, with an immediate flavor profile of goji berries, plum, Bing cherries, and a touch of leather. The fruit bears this intriguing crunchiness, with the acid mingling but never overarching beyond the wine’s overall feel. There is a playful energy this Beaujolais, which went lovely with the salmon and danced between being a little showy and a bit mellow over the course of four hours. I had fun drinking it, trying not to take it or myself too serious in the process. This cuvee, Pacalet’s first effort within Moulin-a-Vent, will evolve quite nicely; I’m eager to revisit in a few months’ time. As goes with many of my recommendations, though, don’t feel bad if you drink sooner rather than later. – Tyler

Wine of the Day: Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2011 6-16-16

dfghdfgdhThibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy 2011 750ML ($27.95) Buy Now: $20.90 special

Sometimes a hit of Burgundy is in order, a reconnection with those illustrious, puzzling, sumptuous whites and reds. But sometimes, too, price becomes an issue. Which is when the thirsty savant of Burgundy seeks out regional Bourgogne from a fine producer such as Thibault Liger-Belair. His négociant side business, Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs, purchases wines and raises them in barrel, with very satisfying results.

The 2011 Bourgogne Rouge opens with a ripe Côte de Nuits bouquet of dark fruit, earth, and violet. Deeply colored, it carries some weight on the palate, backed by nice acidity. But this wine, as with the 2011 vintage, is more about perfume than power. And often that’s what the Burgundy-deprived senses crave: the elegant, seductive essence of Pinot Noir from its native Côte d’Or, at a more-than-reasonable price. Consider me dosed. – Daniel

Wine of the Day: Chateau d’Arcole Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009 5-28-16


Chateau d’Arcole, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009 750ML ($34.95) Buy Now: $29 special

My palate exercised by a cellar-worthy 2010 Sociando-Mallet, I relaxed with the first sip of 2009 Château d’Arcole. The former Bordeaux, a deep Cabernet, was still quite young; the latter, a soft Merlot, drank smoothly till all was gone. Both years were outstanding, but sometimes life calls for a fleshy, rounded St. Emilion, full of plum and spice, like Château d’Arcole.

The name comes from a Napoleonic battle, the grapes (70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) from the château’s 300-year-old vineyard, which has never been bombarded by synthetic chemicals. The wine, certified organic, receives the dignified attention of Château d’Arcole’s Grand Cru status: Rotating stainless fermentation vats, gravity pumping, no filtration, not too much new oak. Such gentle treatment makes for a wine more delicate than aggressive, whose tannins meld with the bouquet of ripe fruit and toastiness, as if made for roasted fowl or a fine cut of pork. This wine is balanced enough to handle a few more years in bottle, but it is drinking so well now… – Daniel