Tag Archives: German

Wine of the Day: Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese 2015 6-25-16

Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2015 750ML SOLD OUT, ETA Fall 2016
Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2015 1.5L SOLD OUT, ETA Fall 2016

donnnsad“Portland was host to a smattering of winemakers represented in the Terry Theise portfolio this week, none the least of whom was Anne Donnhoff sharing her entrancing range of 2015s. To say I tasted the wines quite young would be a bit of an understatement (many other winemakers were pouring barrel samples!) but there’s plenty to gleam from the youthful expressions Riesling in all its Pradikat guises.

“I could, and have, waxed poetic about this ethereal wine – the vineyard home of Donnhoff’s elusive eiswein. The vineyard is a monopole composed of grey slate on clay soil. This year’s Theise release grants us a Spatlese, Auslese Goldkapsel and, rumor has it, an Eiswein (stay tuned for that!).

“At the tasting, the Brucke Spatlese was poured after the Felsenberg Spatlese, which was fitting as it showed a touch sweeter on the palate with gentler acidity. The palate was creamier than the Felsenberg with a touch of the apple-skin-like texture I found in the wine’s 2013 release.

“It was the aroma in the glass that, like an old friend, brought a smile. Words escaped me for a few blessed moments while I sniffed. I was taken back to a few months ago when my little Meyer lemon tree blossomed. The scent from that day that filled my living room what not quite something to fit into words: certainly there were notes of citrus, a touch of Meyer lemon zest, and that haunting citrus-flower quality that evokes Proust’s remembrances of madeleines and lime flower tea. And here we find it, the word that best describes the Brucke wines: evocative.” -Suzanne

Wine of the Day: JB Becker Martinsthaler Rodchen Spatlese Trocken 1990 5-3-16

Becker 1990JB Becker Martinsthaler Rodchen Spatlese Trocken 1990 750ML ($59.95) Buy Now: $49 special

My, how time flies! Much as I don’t want to make anyone feel old, I’d like to highlight the fact that Milli Vanilli were the biggest thing in the world at the time this wine was made. While the R&B duo from West Germany may have soared –peaked-crashed-and-burned, Hans-Joseph Becker from the Rheingau has only now begun to enjoy the spotlight. At 70!

I drew out Sunday night’s dinner with little tipples from this old bottle – a dark brown, star-stamped bottle from which copper-gold splashed out brilliantly. In the decanter, the wine caught candlelight in so gorgeous a way I literally sighed. Then came drinking! At once, a sense of energy and integration, yet I could easily sift through the layers to reveal essences which had been tucked away across the past quarter-century.  Over time, orange rind and sea mist gave way to lime, rain-soaked stones, and a delicate hint of petrol. I’d describe it as charming, deliberate, and tangible; as fun as it is serious.

Mr. Becker farms organically and prefers native yeast fermentation, but seems to make no fuss of either.  Fermentation takes place in pressurized tanks in order to achieve it quickly and steadily; Becker then racks the wine into barrel for at least two years of aging. Many bottlings are held back for years and years and years. As my comrades at Vom Boden – Becker’s US importer – phrase it, “go as quick as you can; then slam on the brakes and wait out all the others.” Not unlike Milli Vanilli, you could say, except that the voice is entirely Becker’s own.

– Tyler

Wine of the Day: Geltz-Zilliken Riesling 4-11-16

zilliken 2013Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage 2013 750ML ($37.95) Buy Now: $21.90 special
Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Kabinett Erste Lage 2013 375ML ($21.95) Buy Now: $14 special
“This opulent Riesling has an aroma of crushed peaches and mint. It’s sourced from the estate’s top vineyard (Rausch), which is covered in Devonian slate. It’s rich and full in body with a lingering waxy texture and a surprising vibrancy given its lushness. The sweetness is nicely balanced by the high acidity. Enjoy on its own or with spicy pork dishes.” -Suzanne

Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2013 Riesling Kabinett Saarburger Rausch is a rich, sappy, juicy, piquant and elegant Riesling with an extremely stimulating and lush fruit intensity. With 7.5% alcohol the wine is light (though not light-bodied) but intense in its tropical fruitiness with mango, peach and pineapples flavors. Almost a Spätlese, even for Zilliken, but again “not explosive enough,” says Dorothee.” SR

Donnhoff Riesling – September 2015

Robert Parker calls Helmut Donnhoff “unquestionably one of the stars” in the world of German Rieslings. Situated between the villages of Niederhausen and Schlossbockelheim in the middle Nahe, the Dönnhoff family has been making wine since 1750, with Helmut Dönnhoff in charge of winemaking at the estate since 1971.In 1999 Helmut was awarded Gault Millau and Feinschmecker Winemaker of the Year, and in 2005 was named Wine Personality of the Year by Wine Advocate. While there are many who can attest to Donnhoff’s talent, there is no one better to describe Helmut than himself: “I want the wines I make to contain a story, and the story I can offer is that of me at home in my landscape. Winemaking alone cannot bring quality, it can only retain the available quality. The concentration of all the flavors of the grape, especially the mineral extract, gives the wine its real taste and structure.” It is his effortless spirit in winemaking that makes both Helmut and his wines so highly revered. 

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