Tag Archives: classic

A Perfect Hermitage – The 2015 Jaboulet La Chapelle: September 2018

The Legendary 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage “La Chapelle”, Rhone 2015 750ML ($319.95) Buy Now: $236

The 2015 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle has already reached legendary status. Between the wine’s consistently excellent track record and the quality of the 2015 vintage, we knew that this was going to be a wine to pay attention to. Jeb Dunnuck rated the wine a perfect 100 points and it was the highest rated Northern Rhone in Vinous (98 points). All of this is to say that we expect this to remain a coveted wine for decades to come (and for good reason).

The hill of Hermitage is both one of the most famous wine landmarks in the world and also so much more interesting than common lore purports it to be. The story goes that the hill of Hermitage was the home of a knight seeking solace from the horrors of the Crusades upon his return home. He planted the vineyards that would become Hermitage and then built a chapel to pray in and that building, the Chapel of Saint Christopher, is the defining marker of the hillside. The name, Hermitage, takes the name of the hermit’s refuge.

In reality, the hill of Hermitage has probably been planted since the time of the Romans (if not before) and is composed of three hillsides, which range from very granitic soils to more of a sandy clay. There is a lot of soil variation over the 137 hectares of vines and that variation means that the different lieu-dits all have their own personality. Most of the top producers, like Chave and Jaboulet, own land across the slope, but several offer bottlings from individual parcels.

Jaboulet purchased the Chapel of Saint Christopher and the surrounding plot of land in 1919—possibly the choicest part of the whole appellation. This is the core of their blend for La Chapelle, which for many defines what Hermitage can be. The 2015 version is a true legend in the making and we expect this will be a wine that is talked about reverentially in twenty years. We have a small parcel for sale, in stock now.

Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage “La Chapelle”, Rhone 2015 750ML ($319.95) Buy Now: $236
Jeb Dunnuck 100 points “Lastly, and a legendary wine in the making, the 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle is reminiscent of the 1990 with its full-bodied, opulently, sexy, yet concentrated style. Offering sensational notes of blackcurrants, smoked herbs, beef blood, and chocolate, it’s a huge yet elegant wine that has masses of sweet tannin, incredible purity and finesse, and a killer finish. It’s the finest wine from this estate in close to 30 years. Hats off to Caroline Fray and Jacques Desvernois!”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 98 points “Bright purple. Explosive, smoke- and spice-accented blueberry, cherry cola, incense and smoky mineral aromas show outstanding delineation and pick up a hint of olive with aeration. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering deeply concentrated dark berry liqueur, fruitcake and floral pastille flavors, along with a suggestion of star anise. The remarkably long, penetrating finish features strong minerally cut, an echo of sweet blue fruit and harmonious tannins that come in late and fold effortlessly into the deeply concentrated fruit. At this stage, this is a contender for the wine of the vintage, at least by estimation.”
Wine Advocate 97-100 points “A wine that might surpass the 2009 and 2010 is the 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle, which has more than a passing resemblance to the 1990. This inky black/blue-colored Hermitage offers an off-the-charts array of blackberries, blueberries, crushed rocks, wood smoke and charred meats. Thick, unctuous, full-bodied and incredibly layered, with sweet tannin, it’s a tour de force that’s going to have three to four decades of longevity.”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut, Champagne 2006 – April 2016

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut, Champagne 2006 750ML ($299.95) Buy Now: $219 special

James Suckling 97 points “Deep pinot-driven presence is the first and lasting impression. Power with control. Superfine bead, bread and spiced biscuits, candied ripe red fruits and a sense of tight-knit complexity. Some grapefruit, lemon pith & gently flinty notes too – impressive nose. In the mouth it is rich, powerful, mouth-filling and flavoursome with a core of the same biscuity red fruit flavour, savoury nutty notes and a wrap of assertive, persistent acidity that holds rich powerful flavour deep and focused whilst maintaining a polished, gently creamy texture. Long chalky bread and biscuit finish. A superb Pinot-driven vintage.”

Antonio Galloni 96 points “Broad, ample and resonant on the palate, the 2006 Cristal dazzles with its pure richness and volume. Readers need to give the 2006 another 4-5 years in bottle, perhaps longer, as the wine appears to be shutting down a bit. Tasted next to the 2002, today the 2006 is a bit less opulent but just as intense, layered and deep. This is a fabulous showing. 10,000 cases imported in the US.”

Wine Spectator 95 points “–Collectibles— This elegant version shows beautiful texture and a sense of finesse despite the underlying power of vibrant acidity and smoky minerality. The palate offers a finely layered mesh of blackberry, poached pear, almond pastry, lemon zest and pickled ginger flavors. Drink now through 2028.” WS

Pol Roger ‘Sir Winston Churchill,’ Champagne 2002 – April 2016

Pol Roger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill, Champagne 2002 750ML ($279.95) Buy Now: $219 special

Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 points “The 2002 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is wonderfully open, expressive and resonant. The richness of the vintage comes through nicely, yet the more overt elements are very nicely balanced by a good deal of freshness. Baked apple, pastry, candied lemon, dried flowers and warm, toasty notes shape the generous, resonant finish. With time in the glass, the 2002 takes a on a striking, vinous character. Readers might want to consider opening the 2002 a few hours in advance, as it really blossoms with air.”

Wine Spectator 95 points “There’s a sense of quiet elegance and grace to this harmonious Champagne. Refined and lacy in texture, with finely wrought acidity lending focus and length to the spice- and graphite-laced flavors of ripe apricot and blackberry, lemon meringue pie, chopped almond and briny mineral. Drink now through 2029. 500 cases imported. –AN”

Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful clarity. All Grand Cru fruit.” JR

Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus, Priorat DOCa 2012 – April 2016

Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus, Priorat DOCa 2012 750ML ($219.95) Buy Now: $169 special

Wine Advocate 98 points “After no 2011 was produced, the 2012 Clos Erasmus comes with renewed energy, a much fresher approach and a more transparent wine while keeping the slate typicity of Gratallops even in a tiny-yielding vintage. Part of the wine aged in 700-liter clay amphorae and the rest in Burgundy barrels that added a spicy patina to the nose, yet very much respected the wet slate character of the vintage. Contrary to previous vintages, the core of fruit is red rather than black; the 2013 that I tasted (not in bottle) followed pretty much this same direction. The palate shows power, elegance and a special mineral savoriness akin to licking stones. There is more Garnacha in the blend (there’s only 15% Syrah) which gives a Mediterranean juiciness. A new life for Erasmus, very much recognizable as Priorat, Gratallops and Erasmus, but with a more elegant haircut. Only 2,000 bottles produced.” WA

Josh Raynolds-Vinous 95 points “(80% garnacha and 20% syrah; aged for 20 months in French oak, 60% of it new, and in a single 700-liter amphora): Bright purple. Sexy, mineral-laced aromas of black raspberry, potpourri, Asian spices and woodsmoke. Palate-staining red and dark berry liqueur flavors are complemented by notes of lavender, spicecake and bitter chocolate, with a minerally quality adding lift, vivacity and focus. Closes extremely long, with superb clarity, sneaky tannins and a whiplash of candied flowers.”

JL Chave Hermitage Rouge 2012 – April 2016

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge, Rhone 2012 750ML ($219.95) Buy Now: $219 special

Wine Advocate 94-97 points “Looking at the 2012 Hermitage, which is still resting in barrels and getting ready to be bottled, it’s a much more classic, easy to read Hermitage that has lots of ripe, sweet fruit in its full-bodied, concentrated, textured profile. It has copious sweet blackberry and cassis fruit, violet and serious granite-like minerality, superb mid-palate depth and a focused, structured finish. It’s a beautiful, classy 2012 that will have 20-25+ years of longevity.” WA

Josh Raynolds–Vinous 95-97 points “Presented as components from four different barrels: #1, from Beaume: Exotic scents of candied licorice, dark berries and smoky Indian spices. Fleshy and broad on entry, then tighter in the middle, displaying superb depth to its bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors. #2, from Peleat: Explosive red fruit and potpourri aromas, with a bright mineral overtone. Silky and sweet, offering vibrant raspberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of bitter chocolate. The red fruit note echoes strongly on the back half. #3, from Meal: Fleshier and rounder than the first two components, offering plush dark berry and violet flavors that coat the palate. Chewy tannins build on the finish and fold smoothly into the wine’s dense fruit. #4, from Bessards: Emphatic mineral and dark berry aromas pick up a sexy floral note and a hint of cola. Sappy, penetrating and sharply focused, displaying an impressive array of red fruit and floral qualities and strong finishing spiciness. Jean-Louis Chave told me he thinks this wine will be “classic Hermitage with an emphasis on fruit, not structure, but not lacking in structure at all–just compared to, say, 2010 and 2005.” JR