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Wine of the Day: Lopez de Heredia Tondonia 4-2-16

R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva 2003 750ML ($47.95) Buy Now: $33 special
Case-12 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva 2003 750ML ($499.95) Buy Now: $359 special (that’s only $29.92/bottle!)

There’s a little jazz venue-meets-bottle shop on Portland’s east side that has two bottles of Lopez de Heredia from the 1940’s sitting on a shelf. While a friend was playing a recent show, I could barely resist temptation of yanking out the still-intact corks and seeing what message the wine bore from three quarters of a century ago. The labels are tattered, the bottle’s glass itself is lopsided, and the once-bright red wax seal has assumed a burnt sienna hue. I wonder when, if ever, these wines will see the light of day!

Every bottle I’ve had from Lopez de Heredia – LdH, as their devotees have dubbed them – bears some variation of this mystery. Their library releases make me wonder about what the weather in Spain was like that year, about what was going on in my own life at the time. I respect LdH because their mission seems unchanged since 1877; they resist temptation of trends and seldom disappoint. Above all – beyond the romance and the story, if one can divorce the two – the wines are powerful yet balanced, hugely expressive and a touch rustic. Soulful, suave, old world.

The 2003 Tondonia is 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, and 10% Graciano and Mazuelo, all from estate vineyards. Aged six years in barrel and racked twice, the wine presents blackcurrant and smoke in terms or aromas and delivers a brilliant mix of saddle leather, roasted herbs, ripe red fruit, and earth on the palate. The tannins are there – and aren’t shy – but the acid, brightness, and body all reconcile in a lively, balanced wine. Decant it, let it sit, tipple here and there, and enjoy over a nice meal. You wouldn’t be wrong to grab a case and drink one bottle per year until 2027… I don’t say that as a salesman, but rather a fellow drinker. Enjoy this one! -Tyler

Wine of the Day: Nikolaihof Neuburger 4-1-16

Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Neuburger, Wachau, Austria 2011 750ML ($39.95) Buy Now: Was $33, Now $28

I’d been reading an interview with Nikolaus Saahs, known for making intensely beautiful Riesling and Gruner at the legendary Nikolaihof estate. Tucked between anecdotes about harvest and the minutiae of the winemaking life, Saahs conceded that his favorite varietal to drink was neither which made his family’s centuries-old estate famous. Instead, it was Neuberger.

…Neuberger?

Neuburger. Native to Austria, the grape is a cross between Roter Veltliner and Sylvaner. Aromatically, it conjures up thoughts of off-dry Riesling, perhaps a chilly bottle of Gruner smuggled into a park on the first warm day of the year. On the palate, however, comparison is put to rest. The 2011 Neuburger is fleshy and generous, with a hint of spice and lots of savory bookends. The finish is insistent, remaining on your taste buds as the next whiff of honey, melon, and fresh herbs comes to be.

You’d be wisest to decant and play around with the wine a little. It’s the sort of bottle which could patch together a lot of otherwise-disparate flavors well, like at a potluck dinner or with that stubborn family recipe which evades perfect pairings. With an open mind, this could truly delight. – Tyler

Wine of the Day: Cameron Clos Electrique Blanc 3-31-16

Cameron Clos Electrique Blanc, Dundee Hills, Oregon 2013 750ML ($81.95) Buy Now: $66 special

I’ve made my love for Cameron’s wines no secret within these pages, and there’s likely no end in sight. The reds have been very good company during my first Portland winter – now, however, with an eye towards the spring, I’m excited to drink more of John’s wonderful white wines.

The first thing that the 2013 Clos Electrique Blanc conjures to mind is the lead-in to my notes from the first tasting: “Wow.” It’s so darned easy to drink, with an everlasting finish and lots of layers to sort through as the wine aerates. As I wrote previously, “…honeysuckle, citrus, tarragon, and honey cover the palate while remaining lively and buoyant. Layered and charming, maintaining a balance between force and elegance.”

This one, like many of the Camerons, will age wonderfully. Not that I suggest you exercise any restraint. Drink up, my friends… – Tyler

Winemaker’s note: “Clos Electrique is farmed organically which means that we use elemental sulfur during the growing season to prevent growth of powdery mildew and use copper hydroxide and leaf removal in the vicinity of grape clusters to inhibit botrytis. Insect pests are generally kept in check by cultivation of predatory insects with integrated cover crops. This is one of the warmer vineyard sites in the Red Hills of Dundee and usually is harvested during the second half of September. Yields of the ‘blanc’ generally yields 2.0 tons per acre (27 hl/hectare).”

Wine of the Day: Peter Lauer Fass 8 Kabinett 3-30-16

Peter Lauer Fass 8 Ayler Kupp Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2014 750ML ($37.95) Buy Now: $31.90 special

Like tiny flowers pressed between the pages of a book you borrowed years ago but have yet to read (or return!), this year’s Fass 8 is delicate but not wimpy, bittersweet yet not overwrought, and perhaps a little flirtatious. It trades off solos from sweet to saline and floral to fruit with ease, ne’er too serious and yet fully confident with what’s at stake in the glass. After all, Riesling faces an uphill battle even during its own renaissance.

I fear that writing down a bunch of adjectives in quick succession reduces this wine to something to be scored rather than enjoyed. To hell with points! All I can say is that I really enjoyed it and believe that the chances are pretty high that you will, too.

Lauer himself – the third in the family to coax wine from earth and into bottle – makes drop-dead gorgeous wines. It seems as though this was once a secret, known only by a spattering of sommeliers and retail nerds. In counting myself among the latter, I’m not too worried that the cat’s out of the bag with this one. There’s enough to go around. Enjoy it. – Tyler

Wine of the Day: Antoine Arena Grotte di Sole 3-28-16

Domaine Antoine Arena Patrimonio Grotte di Sole Rouge, Corsica, France 2011 750ML ($49.95) Buy Now: $29 special

Antoine Arena manages such depth in his otherwise energetic, soulful wines. The 2011 Grotte di Sole is among the best possible examples, and we’re lucky to have it on offer. Sun-soaked fruit flirts with a leathery backdrop which never goes overboard; the gorgeous aromas of dark cherry and spice makes it very much a sip once, sniff twice sort of wine. This is an adventurous wine which will pleasantly surprise, though certainly fall within the register of anyone who loves the complexity of northern Rhone wines, the food-friendliness of Tuscan wines, and the persistence of Loire reds. I, for one, love it.

– Tyler