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Wine of the Day: Bernhard Ott Gruner Veltliner 2013 4-20-16

Weingut Bernhard Ott Feuersbrunner Spiegel Gruner Veltliner Erste OTW Lage, Wagram 2013 750ML ($59.95) Buy Now: $49 special

Ott Feuersbrunner Spiegel Gruner Why we love it: Length and layers. There’s the pretty, initial fruit and then everything which follows. That kick of ginger and spice is particularly lovely, and I was struck with a nostalgic reflectiveness once the bottle had emptied. – Tyler

David Schildknecht–Vinous 93 points “Honey, white peach and quince allied to hints of truffle and kelp put one in mind of certain very rich Chenins. Full yet barely over 13% in alcohol, and boasting lusciously satisfying primary juiciness, this takes on more typical Grüner Veltliner characteristics in the mid-palate in the form of caramelized parsnip, snap pea and blond tobacco, not to mention the white pepper, allied with ginger, that informs its long mouthwateringly savory and buoyant finish. Fruit from these vines, noted Ott, was especially affected by millerandage and consequently concentrated. A mere 600 liters were harvested from the Spiegel’s eight hectares!”

Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2013 Grüner Veltliner Spiegel Erste Lage is Ott’s third vintage of this Feuersbrunn cru which carries a mix of very old and very young vines which are cultivated on south-facing terraces in 280 to more than 300 meters above sea level and well protected to the northwest by the Hengstberg gravel ridge. The soils, derived from a massive blanket of loess that is draped over the Gföhler gneiss bedrock, marine sediments, and ancient gravels of the Danube River, are calcareous and silty and, in 2013, bore a light golden colored, tropical flavored, rich, sweet and harmonious Veltliner of great intensity and elegance. It intermixes ripe peach and mango aromas with tobacco and mineral flavors and develops a great length which makes the Spiegel on a par with the Rosenberg., the former more sweet, the latter more subtle perhaps.” WA

 

JL Chave Hermitage Rouge 2012 – April 2016

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge, Rhone 2012 750ML ($219.95) Buy Now: $219 special

JL Chave Hermitage Rouge 2012Wine Advocate 94-97 points “Looking at the 2012 Hermitage, which is still resting in barrels and getting ready to be bottled, it’s a much more classic, easy to read Hermitage that has lots of ripe, sweet fruit in its full-bodied, concentrated, textured profile. It has copious sweet blackberry and cassis fruit, violet and serious granite-like minerality, superb mid-palate depth and a focused, structured finish. It’s a beautiful, classy 2012 that will have 20-25+ years of longevity.” WA

Josh Raynolds–Vinous 95-97 points “Presented as components from four different barrels: #1, from Beaume: Exotic scents of candied licorice, dark berries and smoky Indian spices. Fleshy and broad on entry, then tighter in the middle, displaying superb depth to its bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors. #2, from Peleat: Explosive red fruit and potpourri aromas, with a bright mineral overtone. Silky and sweet, offering vibrant raspberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of bitter chocolate. The red fruit note echoes strongly on the back half. #3, from Meal: Fleshier and rounder than the first two components, offering plush dark berry and violet flavors that coat the palate. Chewy tannins build on the finish and fold smoothly into the wine’s dense fruit. #4, from Bessards: Emphatic mineral and dark berry aromas pick up a sexy floral note and a hint of cola. Sappy, penetrating and sharply focused, displaying an impressive array of red fruit and floral qualities and strong finishing spiciness. Jean-Louis Chave told me he thinks this wine will be “classic Hermitage with an emphasis on fruit, not structure, but not lacking in structure at all–just compared to, say, 2010 and 2005.” JR

Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein 2011 – April 2016

Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Eiswein 2011Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein, Nahe, Germany 2011 375ML ($239.95) Buy Now: $139 special

Wine Advocate 92 points “Musk and leather; prickly radish and lemon rind; caramel apple and honey; passion fruit and mango inform an intense aromatic as well as ultra-concentrated palate performance. Unlike with so many other 2011s rendered from frozen grapes in early 2012, one can’t complain here about a lack of Eiswein-like acidity – but it takes-on a somewhat detached, slightly metallic and strident edge. Perhaps this extreme wine’s caramelized and animal aspects will reconcile themselves in time with its sharp citricity and radish-like sizzle, but the ways of Eiswein in the bottle are capricious.” WA

Wine of the Day: Paolo Bea Pagliaro Secco, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2008 4-19-16

Paolo Bea Sagrantino 2008Paolo Bea Pagliaro Secco, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2008 750ML ($89.95) Buy Now: $79 special

Sagrantino di Montefalco is a brawny, tannic wine. Bea’s interpretation of the grape entails careful winemaking with an aim to limit intervention. There’s so much structure here, with a musical balance of muscle and grace – the smoke and spice conjure thoughts of campfire and fragrant cigar boxes, while a coquettish blend of cranberry, dark chocolate, granite-tinged minerals, and freshly-tilled earth dances across the tongue.

The surest bet is to decant the wine, taking little sips as you revisit over the course of two to three days, perhaps more for the uber-curious. Keep it in the fridge in the interim, but allow plenty of time for it to reacquaint with room temperature before you pour those ensuing glasses. Listen close to the wine and it ought to disclose some fun, surprising secrets. With patience and some great, simple food, this may very well knock your socks off. – Tyler

Importer note “The fabled local grape of Montefalco is the Sagrantino and the Pagliaro vineyard, situated at 1300 feet in altitude, is dedicated in large part to this grape variety.  The harvest of Sagrantino normally occurs during the second half of October.  The cuvaison extends for forty to fifty days.  The wines is then aged for one year in stainless steel, another two years in large Slavonian oak barrels and, finally, spends one more year in bottle (the wine, like all Paolo Bea wines, is unfiltered) before release.  Annual production from the Pagliaro vineyard is 15,000 to 20,000 bottles.”

Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato Barolo DOCG 2008 – April 2016

Mascarello Monprivato 2008Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio Monprivato, Barolo DOCG 2008 750ML ($179.95) Buy Now: $149 special

Wine Spectator 95 points –#6 Wine of the Year in 2013 – “Detailed and fragrant, offering floral, strawberry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, this is elegant and underlined by a strong mineral streak. Well-proportioned, picking up intensity and complexity on the long, savory finish. Extremely fresh and classy”

Antonio Galloni – Vinous 95+ points “Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Barolo Monprivato is a much more lifted and translucent wine than the 2006 Le Vigne. A wine that needs considerable air, the 2008 only starts to blossom with a few hours in the glass. Monprivato is often quirky, but the 2008 is a real moving target. Just this week alone I have tasted six bottles of the 2008 and found the wine a bit all over the place, especially compared to other wines from the same year. Still, with patience, the 2008 really sings. Ideally, readers should plan on cellaring the 2008 for at least another few years.”

Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 95+ points “Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Barolo Monprivato is a much more lifted and translucent wine than the 2006 Le Vigne. A wine that needs considerable air, the 2008 only starts to blossom with a few hours in the glass. Monprivato is often quirky, but the 2008 is a real moving target. Just this week alone I have tasted six bottles of the 2008 and found the wine a bit all over the place, especially compared to other wines from the same year. Still, with patience, the 2008 really sings. Ideally, readers should plan on cellaring the 2008 for at least another few years.”