Tag Archives: Burgundy

Jean-Marc Millot – Glorious Burgundies

Jean-Marc Millot – Grand Crus

(and Some That Should Be)

March 16, 2020

At this point, it’s amazing that there are hidden gems left to discover in Burgundy.  No other region in the wine world is as scrutinized, and the market is generally efficient and ruthless in finding quality.  That a producer like Jean-Marc Millot could somehow escape widespread attention until the last few years boggles the mind, especially when given the quality of his holdings.

This is a domaine making excellent wines from very old vines in some of the best vineyards in France.  They own parcels in the Grand Crus of Echezeaux, Grands-Echezeaux and Clos Vougeot—and their only premier cru wine is from Suchots, which is easily Grand Cru in quality (and location).  

… Read the rest

Domaine de Courcel

October 26th, 2018

Domaine de Courcel

Arriving Mid-November

Of the short list of producers who star in Pommard, Domaine de Courcel needs to be near the top of the list. Without a tremendous amount of fanfare, the Domaine has been turning out some of the most powerful, densely aromatic wines from a village known for long lived brooding Pinot Noir. The Courcel family has been learning how to navigate the animal intensity of Pommard fruit for 400 years. For the past two decades, the quality has steadily increased as the delicate balance between elegance and power is fine tuned.

A region between hills, most of Pommard’s vineyards are on relatively flat, protected sites. Wind and lashing rains may buffet the nearby hillside vineyards, but Pommard stays sheltered from the worst of the effects of the weather.… Read the rest

VinopolPick: Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair, Burgundy 1-19-17

January 2017

Parceled vineyard ownership can make Burgundy’s Côte d’Or seem chaotic. But this allows small, family growers like Fougeray de Beauclair to produce twenty-one wines from the Côte de Nuits and de Beaune. Founded in 1978, Fougeray de Beauclair grows Pinot Noir and Chardonnay across 45 acres, from straight-forward villages like Marsannay and Fixin, to prestigious Bonnes Mares, to richly structured Puligny-Montrachet. Patrice Olliver has been growing and making wine at Fougeray de Beauclair, created by his parents-in-law, for over two decades. Synthetic fertilizers were abandoned, and the sorting of grapes takes place in the vineyard and at the winery. Quality becomes a matter of pride at a domaine of this size. The wines get oak in the proportion they deserve: 15 months in 30% new for the Gevrey-Chambertin, 18 months in 100% new for the Bonnes Mares, 6 to 8 months in 50% new oak for the Puligny-Montrachet.… Read the rest

Rare & Classic: Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux 2012 – August 2016

Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru 2012 750ML ($219.95) Buy Now: $189

Tucked behind the Clos de Vougeot, and on the same little road as Vosne’s Les Suchots, the Grands-Echézeaux vineyard could hardly be better situated. Known for producing Grand Cru wines of structure and definition, Grands-Echézeaux lives up to its reputation chez Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret. Their 2.5 acre plot hosts vines from 40 to 70 years old. Accordingly, the wine they make has good color, a full body, and a rich, sturdy backbone, perfect for its dose of 100% new oak. On the nose, this wine shows leathery, spiced, and animal notes over black fruit and mushrooms. Its tannins soften into velvet over time, but this Grand Cru definitely needs ageing.… Read the rest

Wine of the Day: Thibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2011 6-16-16

dfghdfgdhThibault Liger-Belair Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Burgundy 2011 750ML ($27.95) Buy Now: $20.90 special

Sometimes a hit of Burgundy is in order, a reconnection with those illustrious, puzzling, sumptuous whites and reds. But sometimes, too, price becomes an issue. Which is when the thirsty savant of Burgundy seeks out regional Bourgogne from a fine producer such as Thibault Liger-Belair. His négociant side business, Thibault Liger-Belair Successeurs, purchases wines and raises them in barrel, with very satisfying results.

The 2011 Bourgogne Rouge opens with a ripe Côte de Nuits bouquet of dark fruit, earth, and violet. Deeply colored, it carries some weight on the palate, backed by nice acidity. But this wine, as with the 2011 vintage, is more about perfume than power.… Read the rest