Vinopolpick Friday Newsletter 02-25-22

Perhaps no vigneron exemplifies the New Champagne like Ulysse Collin. Born to a family of grape-growers, he worked tirelessly to free the family land from contracts selling fruit to negociants and now vinifies all of his wines as single-vineyard bottlings. His wines are profoundly introspective and challenge preconceived notions about what Champagne should be. At the forefront of the new wave of ultra-terroir-driven Champagnes, Olivier produces deeply vinous, mineral and hyper-concentrated wines. True to their terroir, these are reflections of the individual parcels.

“With each new release seemingly more impressive than the last, Champagne Ulysse Collin today ranks as one of the most exciting producers in the entire region… The inaugural four vintages of Ulysse Collin were powerful and impactful, already marked by a strong and intensely vinous personality, but Olivier’s wines of today are altogether more complete and more harmonious. In short, they have more to say and less to prove. And since Collin clearly has no intention of resting on his laurels, I’m convinced that even greater things are to come.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate    

Arriving Friday, March 4th

Please note: the winery requested we not list these wines online. To order, please reply to this email, call, or stop in. Disgorgement dates may vary from reviews.

Ulysse Collin ‘Les Jardin d’Ulysse’ Extra Brut, Champagne 2015 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96+ points “A new cuvée from Collin debuts with the NV Extra-Brut Les Jardin d’Ulysse (2015), a wine that derives from a small parcel in the heart of Congy, right behind Collin’s home and winery. Planted with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it’s entirely derived from the 2015 vintage and was disgorged this March after 60 months sur lattes. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, crisp green apple, white flowers, blanched almonds and nutmeg, it’s full-bodied, chiseled and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit that’s underpinned by a tangy spine of acidity and a seamless, complete profile. Unsurprisingly given its blend, it’s very different in personality from the rest of the range, and readers will enjoy comparing and contrasting Les Jardin d’Ulysse with Collin’s other bottlings. There’s no track record yet, but this first release appears to have the structure to be one of the domaine’s longer-lived wines.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

“Les Enfers is a little denser and finer boned” –William Kelley
Ulysse Collin ‘Les Enfers’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV (2015) 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96+ points “Disgorged with two grams per liter dosage in March 2020, the newly released NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2015) is based on the 2015 vintage, complemented by some 15% reserve wines. Offering up aromas of citrus oil, crisp white peach, spring blossom, warm bread and buttery pastry, it’s full-bodied, layered and muscular, with terrific concentration, lively acids and chalky dry extract, concluding with a saline finish. I can’t wait to revisit it with more time on cork, as it’s still a little reserved after its recent disgorgment.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2015 base) is a gorgeous wine. Rich and resonant, the 2015 possesses terrific depth, that richness accentuated by the 48 months this edition spent on its lees. Varietal Chardonnay aromas and flavors build in an ample, vinous Champagne. Time in the glass brings out pretty floral, mineral and graphite accents to round things out. The Enfers conveys tremendous richness and yet retains so much transparency. Its a remarkable Champagne that beautifully encapsulates Olivier Collin’s style. Disgorged: March, 2020.”
 

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The next best price is $495

Ulysse Collin ‘Les Enfers’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV (2016) 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96+ points “Collin’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2016) was disgorged this spring after 48 months on the lees, and it’s already showing brilliantly. Soaring from the glass with scents of vanilla pod, citrus oil, toasted bread, white flowers and nutmeg, it’s full-bodied, deep and complete, with an ample and concentrated mid-palate, racy acids and a long, mouthwatering finish. This is a stunning Champagne, and I can’t wait to see its late-disgorged incarnation in another year’s time.”
 

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“Its sense of energy is almost electric” –William Kelley
Ulysse Collin ‘Les Pierrieres’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV (2017) 750ML ($179.95) $159 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96+ points “Disgorged in March 2021 after 36 months sur lattes, Collin’s NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Pierrières (2017) is based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by fully 70% reserve wines. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers and wet stones that are framed by a deft patina from its élevage, it’s a full-bodied, vinous Champagne with a satiny attack that segues into a deep, concentrated mid-palate. Chalky and incisive, it concludes with a long, saline finish. As ever, this cuvée—which takes its name from the black flints that abound in the chalk in this area—is worth a special effort to seek out.”
 

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“Les Roises produces Collin’s most textural and exotic wine” –William Kelley
Ulysse Collin ‘Les Roises’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV (2015) 750ML ($299.95) $249 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 97 points “The newly released NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises (2015) is brilliant, bursting with aromas of mirabelle plum, apricot and yellow orchard fruit mingled with clear honey, warm bread, drawn butter and blanched almonds. Full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and a pillowy mousse, it’s gourmand but precise, with notable structuring extract and a long, stone fruit-inflected finish. Along with Les Maillons, this is one of the most dramatic wines in the cellar.”

Shop our complete selection of Champagnes in stock now and en route!
 

 

Friday We’re in Love: 
New and Re-Arrivals 
 

Oregon – Eola-Amity Hills 

Brooks Hope Well Vineyard Riesling Eola-Amity Hills 2018 750ML ($27.95) $26 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Winery note “This dry Riesling has mouth-watering acidity with ripe and generous notes of pineapple, star fruit, kumquat and quince. With only 100 cases produced, this wine will move quickly. It’s organically farmed by one of the valley’s visionaries, Mimi Casteel. A second generation wine grower, her commitment to the environment and restoring native habitat is unequaled. We love this wine, not only because it’s a truly stunning Riesling, but because it embodies everything that is good about the land that is being healed and the people whose lives are dedicated to crafting exceptional expressions of time and place.”
 

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Hope Well Chardonnay Eola Amity Hills 2020 750ML ($99.95) $74 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Mimi Casteel note “Harvested September 30, 2020. 100% organically farmed Chardonnay. Whole cluster pressed, barrel fermented in french oak. No commercial yeasts or bacteria were used. Bottled September 2, 2021.”
 

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Hope Well ‘Sunday’s Child’ Pinot Noir Eola Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($99.95) $74 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Mimi Casteel note “Harvested September 29, 2019. 100% Pinot Noir. 100% organically farmed 100% destemmed. Not inoculated. 100% neutral french oak Alcohol 13.5%, pH 3.85, TA 4.5 g/L 270 six-bottle cases produced.”
 

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California- Sonoma County 

Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Ancient Field Blend Sonoma Valley 2019 750ML ($49.95) $37.70 special, 5 bottles in stock now

Bucklin Upper 5th Vineyard Anne’s Field Blend Sonoma Valley 2018 750ML ($39.95) $30.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Winery note “Our Mom, Anne Teller has been farming commercially in Sonoma Valley since the late 1970’s. Her 50-acre farm includes the Upper 5th Vineyard, a century old, one-acre vineyard that is promiscuously interplanted with nut and fruit trees. Managed with Anne’s conscientious and benevolent farming practices, including no-till dry farming. The Upper 5th is a field blend of five grape varieties: 67% Zinfandel, 19% Peloursin, 8% Petite Sirah.”
 

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Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 11 bottles in stock now
VinpolNote: Old Hill Ranch planted a block of Cabernet in 1983 on a rootstock known as “AXR”. Fast forward 20 years and the block was infected by phylloxera due to an undiagnosed susceptibility in AXR. This means that the block is in the process of dying, with the resulting wine being every bit of a “Swan song” you’d expect.
 

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France- Chablis 

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Valmur Chablis Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $69 special 
Neal Martin-Vinous 93 points “The 2015 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru comes across a little oaky on the nose, but the fruit handles it well. The bouquet is detailed and focused, with hints of dried honey and nutmeg developing in the glass. The palate displays good balance, a fine line of acidity and a smooth, almost creamy texture; hints of almond and white chocolate emerge toward the finish. This feels a little obvious in terms of winemaking at the moment, but I suspect it will evolve into a delicious Valmur. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.”
Stephen Tanzer 92+ points “Pale, bright yellow. Reticent nose hints at lemon zest and powdered stone. Very rich and dense but uncompromisingly dry and youthfully inexpressive. This distinctly masculine Chablis grand cru boasts terrific material for aging but is very closed, even austere, in the earthy going. Finishes with a lively citrus element and rising length.”
Burghound 92 points “A deft touch of wood frames slightly riper but still appealingly fresh floral, green fruit and tidal pool nuances that merge seamlessly into rich, concentrated and mouth coating big-bodied flavors that are also notably powerful, all wrapped in a mildly austere and bitter citrus rind-inflected finale. Like Valmur often is, this is not especially refined though it stops short of being overtly rustic and it is sneaky long.”
 

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Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Vaulorent Chablis Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Neal Martin-Vinous 93 points “The 2015 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet of orange pith and gunflint infused with pressed yellow flowers. The poised, harmonious palate is well balanced, displaying a fine thread of acidity and just the right amount of salinity on the finish. This is a brilliant Vaulorent from Benoît Droin. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.” 
 

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France – Champagne

Vouette et Sorbee Fidele Extra Brut Champagne (2018) NV 750ML ($89.95) $71.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
No reviews available for the 2018-base (R18). Recent review provided for reference.
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “The NV Brut Nature Fidèle (R14) is a Blanc de Noirs from Pinot Noir on Kimmeridgian soils and is entirely based on the 2014 vintage. Disgorged in October 2017 the oak-fermented wine shows a golden-reddish apricot color and opens with a very delicate, floral and herbal yet intense and vinous bouquet of red fruits, with warm, dry earth and spices and just a hint of oak. Bone dry (of course), fresh and elegant on the palate, this is an impressively delicate and filigreed Champagne to be enjoyed as a still wine rather than a fizz. The finish is long, clear, dry and well-structured (even with fine tannins) and reveals discreet salinity. In fact, Fidèle drinks like a Burgundy-inspired Coteaux Champenois with very fine but not effervescent bubbles, persistent lemon juice and a touch of oaky flavors. Don’t use a flute to enjoy this young, gastronomic wine; instead, use a wine glass or one of the rounder, more voluminous Champagne glasses like the Lehmann Jamesse (which stresses the finesse rather than the vinous character). Don’t serve the Fidèle too fresh, either, but if you must, wait a bit and don’t worry if the wine is suddenly 12 or even 14 degrees Celsius—it’s still delicious and even more vinous then! (To be honest, when tasted at 15 or 16 degrees Celsius, I even got some Gewürztraminer notes (lychees) on the nose…!)”

Larmandier-Bernier ‘Latitude’ Extra Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Decanter 94 points “Chalky minerality, lemon peel and spring blossom on the palate and the smell of freshly-baked bread. Tiny bubbles. I’d expect most students to get this as a Blanc de Blancs from Champagne. Bonus points for anyone who spots the Extra Brut dosage.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is a fabulous introduction to the Larmandier-Bernier wines. It offers a compelling mix of Chardonnay brightness with the breadth and natural resonance that comes so easy from the clay-rich soils that are common in the southern edge of Vertus. Dried lemon peel, chamomile, mint, sage and almond nuances flesh out in this beautifully resonant, expansive Blanc de Blancs. This release is based on 2017, with 40% wines from a perpetual reserve that dates back to 2004. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: October, 2019.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “A tangy overtone of pink grapefruit peel rides the fine mousse in this creamy Champagne. It’s layered with a subtle mesh of apricot, lemon thyme and minerally brine and chalk notes. Well-cut and harmonious. Drink now through 2025. 6,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.”

Larmandier-Bernier Les Chemins d’Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut Champagne 2013 750ML ($179.95) $149 special, only 1 bottle in stock now 
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96 points “Revisited from the October 2019 disgorgement, Larmandier-Bernier’s 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d’Avize continues to show brilliantly, offering up complex aromas of argan oil, fresh apricot and crisp yellow orchard fruit, complemented by hints of fresh walnuts and almond paste. Full-bodied, deep and vinous, it’s layered and elegantly fleshy, with a concentrated core of ripe fruit, racy acids and a long, mineral finish. As I wrote last year, Pierre Larmandier invariably excels in cool, late-growing seasons, so the 2013 vintage was perfectly adapted to his talents.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2013 Extra Brut Les Chemins d’Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is floral and gracious, much more so than is common in Avize Champagnes, which tend to have more body. The 2013 is beautifully perfumed and ethereal from start to finish, with striking beams of salinity that confer tension. Candied lemon peel, white flowers, spice, hazelnut, dried flowers and chamomile are some of the many notes that are laced together. This subtle, wonderfully nuanced Champagne has so much to offer. It is the most restrained wine in this range. The Chemins d’Avize is a blend of fruit from Chemin de Plivot and Chemin de Flavigny, done in neutral oak. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: October, 2019.”

France- Loire 

Domaine Girard Sancerre La Garenne Loire 2020 750ML ($27.95) $24.40 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Importer note “100% Sauvignon Blanc. ‘La Garenne’ was named for the original 2.5-hectare plot from which it came. Today, the name remains while the fruit may come from across the fifth-generation Girards’ 14 hectares of vines, which are spread over slopes in five communes including Verdigny and Saint Satur and which include three distinct terroirs: gravel soils (caillottes), flint (silex) and heavy clay (grosses terres). The Girards farm sustainably and harvest the steepest slopes by hand and the flatter sites by machine. Parcels are vinified separately–fermented with native yeasts in steel tank–then aged in tank and blended (the US only sees ‘La Garenne’).”
 

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Andre Dezat & Fils Sancerre Loire 2020 750ML ($29.95) $27 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Decanter 88 points “Elegant citric nose with delicate hints of blackcurrant leaf. Polished fruit with ripe soft finish.” 
 

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L Arnaud Lambert Cremant de Loire France NV 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Varieties: Chenin Blanc (75%), Chardonnay (25%). Vine Age: Planted in 1990. Terroir: From the Clos of the Château, 60 cm deep silt and clay sand soil on a soft Turonian limestone bedrock. Viticulture: Organic (certified). Vinification: Indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 24 months.”

Arnaud Lambert Cremant de Loire Rose France NV 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 15 bottles in stock now
Winery note “100% Cabernet Franc.”
Becky Wasserman note “Vine Age: Planted in 1981. Terroir: Lower part of the Clos du Midi, silty sand soil on 1 meter of soft Turonian limestone bedrock. Viticulture: Organic (certified). Vinification: Indigenous yeast fermentation, traditional Champagne method. Aged for 24 months.”

France – Rhone 

Paul Jaboulet Aine Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc Rhone 2018 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Diaphanous gold. Expressive, mineral-tinged orchard and pit fruits on the highly perfumed nose, with floral and lemon curd nuances building in the glass. Shows very good depth as well as energy to the sappy, mineral-accented tangerine, Anjou pear and honey flavors, which steadily tighten up through the midpalate. The floral element comes back on the lively, focused finish, sweetened by a discreet honey accent.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is two-thirds marsanne and one-third roussanne and it sees some demi-muid elevage. Very fresh, peach and pear aromas with a focused, ripe and juicy palate that wields glycerol and smooth fruit flesh. Long finish with pears, white peaches and melon. Very even. Drink or hold.”
 

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France – Bordeaux

Chateau Leoville Barton Saint-Julien 2015 1.5L ($319.95) $279 special, 6 magnums in stock now 
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “I absolutely loved the 2015 Léoville Barton and this has everything you could want from a Left Bank Bordeaux. Cassis, smoked earth, graphite, tobacco leaf, and thrilling amounts of minerality all emerge from this inky colored, full-bodied, power-packed, brut of a Saint-Julien that holds everything together and stays pure, balanced and elegant on the palate. It has a lot of tannins, yet more than enough fruit. The 2015 is a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot, brought up in 60% new French oak, and it needs 7-8 years of bottle age and will shine for 2-3 decades. Bravo! Drink: 2026-2056.”
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Cellar Selection. Rich, generous and elegant, this is a very dense wine but with great black fruits to balance this structure. The elements are already coming together to create another great wine from this property. Drink from 2026. Alcohol 13%.”
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “A dense, powerful wine, the 2015 Léoville-Barton is going to need quite a bit of time to come together, as it is massively tannic and structured at this stage. Drink: 2025-2055.”
James Suckling 96 points “This is a very focused Barton with ultra-fine tannins that are so polished and chalky. It drives through the center palate with currant and berry character. Full-bodied, polished and straightforward with driving tannin. Love the texture. Class. Yes. Drink in 2021.”
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate 95 points “Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Leoville Barton offers up notions of warm red currants, black raspberries and dark chocolate with wafts of cigar box, violets and bay leaves. Elegant, medium-bodied and sporting great freshness, the taut, tightly wound palate of intense red fruits and floral accents is well-framed with firm, grainy tannins, finishing on a lingering mineral note. Drink: 2022-2042.”
 

This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!

Chateau Leoville Poyferre Saint-Julien 2015 1.5L ($279.95) $249 special, 14 magnums in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The 2015 Leoville Poyferre is cut from the same cloth as the 2016, yet is more sexy, rounded and opulent. Notes of cassis, licorice, crushed rocks, lead pencil shavings and graphite all emerge from this unctuous, ripe, pedal-to-the-metal beauty that’s absolutely loaded with fruit and texture. Reminding me of the 2003, yet only fresher, don’t miss this beauty. It should be drinkable in 3-4 years and last for 3-4 decades.”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2015 Léoville-Poyferré is spectacular. Inky, dense and explosive, the 2015 possesses off the chart richness, with soft contours, no hard edges and exceptional balance. All the elements are simply fused together. inky blue/purplish fruit, chocolate, new leather, blueberry jam, exotic spice and violet notes are all beautifully delineated throughout. Fresh, vibrant and totally sexy, Léoville-Poyferré is one of the wines of the vintage. Don’t miss it! Tasted two times.”
 

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Italy- Emilia-Romagna 

Fuso Denny Bini Podere Cipolla Lambrusco dell’Emilia IGT Emilia-Romagna NV 750ML ($19.95) $17.70 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Importer Note “In case you hadn’t noticed, Emilia, the land of Lambrusco, has a revolution brewing (or fermenting, often in bottle). After too many years of industrially-produced mediocrity, Emilia is now home to a small but growing cell of artisanal producers who are farming carefully and returning to the metodo ancestrale of their grandfathers: secondary fermentation in the bottle, without disgorgement. Denny Bini is one of the humble heroes of this renaissance-revolution.… Denny also makes our FUSO21 Lambrusco dell’Emilia (a.k.a. the Festa! Label) from practicing organic vineyards from family and friends.”
 

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Spain – Rioja 

Bodegas Burgo Viejo Licenciado Reserva Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case -6 Bodegas Burgo Viejo Licenciado Reserva Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($179.95) $119 special (That’s only $19.83 per bottle) 
Decanter 95 points “Bodegas Burgo Viejo is the property of six farming families and comprises more than 200ha of vineyards in the Rioja Oriental region, from where the more full-bodied styles of Rioja are produced (see ‘Regional Profile’, p42). Historically, the bodegas sold their high-quality grapes to neighbouring wineries, until the arrival of the young winemaker Gorka Etxebarria, who saw the potential for them to produce excellent wines themselves. Tempranillo is a firm favourite for this producer, despite Garnacha being the most widely planted grape in the area, and they certainly make a success of it, going by the many accolades they have received over the years. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Distinctly pure, vivid reserva, precise style: limpid fruit, brisk acidity, notable but well balanced oak. Classic. Simon Field MW: Intense colour, powerful aromas of tar and blue fruit; minty savoury, rich, lifted and long; an impressive reserva statement of intent. Pierre Mansour: Classy, spicy black fruit, full, round, generous – depth yet beautifully balanced, very classy, effortless.”

Spain- Sanlucar De Barrameda 

Bodegas La Cigarrera Manzanilla Sherry Andalucia NV 375ML ($19.95) $15.50 special, 4 half-bottles in stock now 
Wine Spectator 91 points “Very fresh, with a lively fleur de sel note that pierces the mix of quinine, chamomile, white peach and dried lemon peel flavors. The long, pure finish is bony and mouthwatering. Drink now. 250 cases made.”
Decanter 91 points “Expressive, not subtle, with camomile and a suggestion of honey and smoke on the nose. Mouthfilling, powerful, with astringency and salty mineral notes.”
 

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Germany- Pfalz

Muller-Catoir Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese Pfalz 2018 375ML ($179.95) $119 special, 24 half-bottles in stock now
Winery Note “The Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese delights the nose with a virtual cornucopia of various herbal aromas, which treat the palate to a magnificent interaction between fruitiness and acidity and a finish that just doesn’t seem to want to end – a wine concentrate for eternity.”
 

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“The National drink of Swabia, Now available in pink”

Known more by its Italian name Schiava, Trollinger is the most planted varietal in the German region called Swabia and nicknamed the areas “National Drink”. Vinified by local celebrity winemaker Jochen Beurer with a biodynamic field blend of other red grapes including Pinot Noir, Zwigelt, and Portugieser; this is the epitome of easy drinking rose. Made from the saignée method with no filtering or sulfur added, the rose walks the line between fleshy and fresh. With a medium body and a plethora of fruits, citrus and herbs that reminds one of maraschino cherry, fresh squeezed orange juice, and basil. The finish is refreshing and incredibly food friendly, to the point where you don’t want to share.

In Stock Now

Beurer Rose Trocken Wurttemberg 2020 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special, 14 bottles in stock now
A saignée blend of Trollinger, Portugieser, Zweigelt and Spätburgunder in an eye-popping bottle. Certified biodynamic.
 

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