Vinopoldeal- Vissoux Beaujolais

Pierre Chermette was just 22 when he took over Domaine Vissoux from his parents in 1982. Since beginning, Pierre was one of few in the region making a Cuvée Traditionnelle in pure Beaujolais tradition. Pierre, along with his wife Martine, has long held the motto “quality before quantity”, opting for lower yields and handpicking in the vineyard. In the cellar, his wines are non-chaptalised and use only indigenous yeasts. Pierre was interested in the Crus of Beaujolais and bought vines in Fleurie and Moulin à Vent in 1994 and 1996. Their Moulin a Vent bottling, Les Trois Roches, is the Chermette’s top cuvee. It is named for the three parcels it is sourced from in the famed Moulin à Vent cru. Rochegrès is said to give the finesse, Roche Noire the liveliness of fruit, and Rochelle the power. The sum of the whole gives the intense yet beautifully balanced Gamay that Moulin a Vent is known for, producing a wine in 2010 that Wine Advocate says “will intrigue and invigorate for at least half a dozen years.”

Moulin A Vent Trois Roches 2010 $29.95 EXTREME DEAL $21.90

91 POINTS STEPHEN TANZER & WINE ADVOCATE ”Bright violet color.  Pungent aromas of red and dark berry preserves, with musky herb and lavender nuances building with air.  Juicy, palate-staining black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show subtle sweetness and very good clarity.  Finishes with noteworthy energy and focus, leaving licorice and cherry pit notes behind.” Best Price in the US!

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Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino

 

Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini has dreamt of living in a vineyard ever since she was little, but life hastaken her in other ways. She has worked in entertainment and in the pharmaceutical industry and known the urban stress in Rome. Until 1998, when she purchased the historic Caparzo vineyard in the Tuscan region of Brunello di Montalcino.

Though vines had long stood on the Caparzo land alongside olive trees and forestry, the vineyard itself was established in the 1960′s and spent much of that time passed around owners.  In her opinion, Caparzo had strayed fromits primary purpose over time and Elisabetta planned to refocus on what she thought the estate does best: Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino. With the help of winemaker Massimo Bracalente, she has renewed technology and invested in quality, hoping to keep the traditional style of Tuscan wine while adding a modern mentality to the winemaking process. The results speak to her advantage. Under Elisabetta, Caparzo has continued to rise in the world of Brunello. This 2006 bottling was noted by Wine Advocate as, “distinguished for their elegance, textural beauty and overall finesse.”

 

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2006 $49.95 Vinopolpick $33.50

93 POINTS JAMES SUCKLING ”Love the flowers, ripe berries and minerals on the nose here. Light dried fruits too. Dried porcini! Full bodied, round and fruity, with a decadent and fruity finish. Try in 2013.”

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Domaine Didier Dagueneau

Didier Dagueneau died tragically in a plane crash in 2008. Before settling into life as a vigneron in 1982 he was a professional motorcycle racer. But, “settling” is a relative term; among other things he was also became internationally accomplished dog sled racer. And he was on all things a renegade, excepting family and wine quality. He uniquely at the time fused modern winemaking with ultra-traditional vineyard management yielding wines that were very soon recognized as among best whites in the world. This from Sauvignon Blanc in Pouilly-sur-Loire. His wines were intense and as cellar-worthy as any white wine from anywhere.

And thus, the wine world was breathless with our loss of the man, and potentially the wines, for the future. And on this issue, Didier’s family stepped into the picture. His oldest son, Louis Benjamin, finished the 2008 vintage, and with the help of sister Charlotte entirely handled 2009 & and 2010. And the results of three years do not reveal an iota of change in the wines.

As previously mentioned these wines are intense. This intensity begins with an uncommonly gentle pressing, a 1-3 day cold soak of the must before fermentation in neutral oak barrels. Post fermentation, a full year sitting on lees, then racked to stainless steel vats, and a further 6 months of aging on fine lees. Bottling is unfined and unfiltered. After a few years of further bottle aging, these initially austere wines explode with complexity of fruit and reveal a fully precise regional character aka “terroir”.

And folks, the intent here was to offer some of our Dagueneau stocks. But, for now, I find that I cannot recall his both amazing and tragic story,  and sell his wines on the same day. We’ll be back to post a wine list in a couple days. In the meantime, if you wish, head through the “click here to shop now’ links (upper right) and search on Dagueneau – all will appear; 2009s & 2010s.

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Cava Recaredo

Josep Mata Capellades founded Cavas Recaredo in 1924, naming the domaine in honor of his father, Recaredo Mata Figueres. Josep Mata Capellades built the cellars in his house, in the historic centre of Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. Parts of the cellars are now over 80 years old and have been conserved in their original form. Recaredo is a pioneer in the production of totally dry cavas, in working with oak barrels and in longer-aged cavas. Cavas Recaredo is currently managed by Josep and Antoni Mata Casanovas, the sons of its founder, with Ton Mata actively involved and representing the succeeding generation.

Recaredo owns forty-six hectares of vineyards in the Alt Penedes district planted primarily to the Xarello, Macabeu and Parellada grape varieties, with smaller amounts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Monastrell (Mourvedre). Viticulture at Recaredo is based solely on dry farming; no herbicides or pesticides are used and only organic fertilizers are applied when necessary; grapes are harvested manually; and, production is limited to cavas that are completely dry. The estate strictly follows an organic viticulture regime.

Vinification is carried out entirely at the Recaredo cellars in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia. The musts from the oldest Xarello vines ferment in oak barrels, which give structure and greater complexity for longer-aged cavas. Some of the base wine is aged in oak barrels for some months. This wine will be used to add greater finesse and structure to the final blending. At Recaredo, the wines are aged in-bottle in continuous contact with the second fermentation lees; the bottles are closed with 100% natural cork stoppers. Disgorging is carried out on an exclusively manual basis, at the cellars’ natural temperature, without freezing the necks of the bottles, a process that produces the most natural product possible. The cavas of Recaredo are disgorged totally dry with a zero dosage and all cuvées are vintage-dated.

Effectively, Can Recaredo, as the domaine is known, is a deeply traditional producer of the finest Cavas available in the market. To visit the cellars and observe the process is to return to another time when artisanal, hand-crafted products of the highest quality were the universally accepted standard, the goal that all sought to achieve. Here, in brief form is the Recaredo commitment:

• Production of single-vintage cavas only.                                               

• Production of completely dry cavas: “Brut Nature”.

• Vinification, production and ageing 100% in-house.

• Ageing in bottle inside our caves, with real cork stoppers.

• Remuage by hand, in traditional racks.

• Manual disgorgement without freezing the bottle’s neck.

 

Vinopolis is very pleased to offer presently the following selections:

Cava Recaredo Brut Nature ‘Gran Reserva Brut de Brut’ 2004 ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special

Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2004 Brut de Brut Gran Reserva Brut Nature is a blend of 67% Macabeu and 33% Xarello from three vineyards on calcareous soils (Can Romeu, Can Rossell and Pedra Blanca). The first fermentation is done in oak casks and was bottled in spring 2005, remaining for 79 months on its lees before disgorgement on December 15, 2011. It offers a very precise bouquet that unfurls in the glass to reveal tantalizing hints of white truffle and a touch of rosemary. The palate is very precise and beautifully balanced with subtle white peach and quince notes, this Cava struck through with razor-sharp acidity that leads to the wild honey-tinged finish. There is a sense of completeness to this outstanding Cava that is well worth the price when you consider the price of Champagne. Drink now-2016+”

Cava Recaredo Brut Nature ‘Gran Reserva Particular’ 2001 ($139.95) $109 pre-arrival special

Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2001 Reserva Particular de Recaredo was sourced from the estate’s oldest vines and is composed of 60% Macabeu and 40% Xarel-lo with the latter fermented in cask for added structure and elegance. It spent over 100 months on lees and was finished with zero dosage. Light gold in color with beautifully refined and complex aromatics, in the glass it shows greater evolution and elegance than its cousins as well as a sense of proportion and great length.”

Cava Recaredo Brut Nature ‘Turo d’En Mota’ 2002 ($179.95) $149 pre-arrival special

Wine Advocate 96 points “The outstanding 2002 Turo d’en Mota is pure Xarello from a single vineyard of vines planted in 1940 in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia. The first fermentation was done in oak casks where it remained for 45 days with lees stirring and underwent 8 years and three months aging before disgorgement on December 12, 2011. The bouquet is more like a dry white Burgundy than a Cava, with hints of honeysuckle, dried apricot, lemon peel and a touch of jasmine. It is beautifully defined and very complex. The palate is very well-balanced with superb delineation and focus, drawing you in with subtle notes of orange peel, tangerine, beeswax and honeycomb. Long in the mouth and utterly harmonious, one has to ask if this is the “Clos d’Ambonnay” of Cava? Drink now-2016+” 

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Fattoria di Montevertine Le Pergole Torte

 

magical montevertine

Montevertine is the name of the wine, the estate where it is made, and the “hilltop hamlet” in the heart of the Chianti district where the domaine is situated. Montevertine’s first vintage was produced by Sergio Manetti in 1971 and little has changed now that the estate is under the administration of his son, Martino. Frequently referred to as a member of the “Super Tuscan” group, the wines of Montevertine are perhaps the philosophical opposite of those in that heterogenous “group.” While the Super Tuscans typically rely heavily on “international” grape varieties to craft wines that match their makers’ visions, Montevertine is dedicated to tradition – so much so that, rather than incorporate white grapes into the blend (as was once required for Chianti), in 1981 Sergio Manetti parted ways with the Chianti Classico Consortium and denomination, to produce one of the few, authentic examples of what Chianti Classico should be.

Le Pergole Torte is the name of Montevertine’s oldest vineyard, and also their top bottling, and arguably the most profound Sangiovese of them all. Le Pergole Torte, the vineyard, has one of the coolest microclimates in the region, giving the wine an electric energy, and peerless precision. Le Pergole Torte, the wine, is only made in top vintages and it is always 100% Sangiovese.

And the good news here at Vinopolis is that we’ve been able to assemble stocks of three of those very best vintages to offer for sale here:

 

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2007 ($119.95) $99 special

Antonio Galloni 98+ points “The 2007 Le Pergole Torte totally captivates all of the senses with its extraordinary purity, depth and radiance. It is without question one of the finest wines of the year. This cool, late-ripening site was favored in 2007, a year that was mostly warm and dry. The resulting wine boasts extraordinary richness and opulence, but no sense at all of heaviness. Layers of striking, intensely perfumed fruit build to the huge, dazzling finish. There is nothing missing at all here. In many ways, the 2007 brings to mind the legendary 1990 Riserva. What a great showing”

 

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2006 ($149.95) $119 special

Antonio Galloni 98+ points “The 2006 Le Pergole Torte is utterly spellbinding. It hasn’t fleshed out yet like the 2004, but it nevertheless possesses breathtaking inner perfume, great purity in its fruit and fabulous overall balance. Today the tannins remain a touch firm, but the wine’s beauty is impossible to miss. True pleasure is still a few years away. I imagine the 2006 will still be fabulous at age 30. The 2006 Pergole Torte is shaping up to be yet another jewel in a long line of stunning wines from Montevertine”

 

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2004 ($149.95) $119 special

Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2004 Le Pergole Torte is flat-out great. Fine, silky tannins frame expressive red berries, flowers, mint, spices and tobacco as the wine opens up in the glass. This is one of the most refined Pergole Tortes ever made. The balance of fruit, acidity and structure is nothing short of pure magic. The 2004 has enough fruit to drink well for a number of years, but it is also insanely beautiful, even today. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2034.”

 

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interlude with maria callas- o mio babbino caro

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