Sunday Night Newsletter 2-27-2022

In This Newsletter:

New Week – New Arrivals:
Illahe, Servin, Montille, and more!


Sparkling News:
Delamotte & Salon Arriving March 11th


Domaine Guiberteau

New Arrivals from Germany:
Kruger-Rumpf, Von Winning & JJ Prum



New Week – New Arrivals

Oregon

Illahe ‘Capitol Fizz’ Sparkling Wine, Willamette Valley NV 750ML ($21.95) $19.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
A light pink blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gruner, Pinot Gris, and Viognier.
Winery note “Capitol Fizz is a dry, pink bubbly bottle of refreshment for workers, picnickers, fishers, makers, singers, and watchers of the western sunset. Picked early at harvest, it has lively acid and a pretty aroma enhanced by its sparkle and joined together with the feeling of seeing a rainbow behind a waterfall. Capitol Fizz comes in two sizes–individual enjoyment, and friendly gathering. This is a sparkling wine that you can drink like a beer. Just pop the crown cap. No pontification required.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Illahe Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley 2021 750ML ($21.95) $19 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Winery note
“The aromatics of the gris jump out of the glass with notes of lemon peel, pear drop, muddled mint, key lime pie, peach, and kiwi. The Santa Maria wooden fermenter helps give this gris has lovely texture with racy acidity, stone, and salinity. Alcohol 12.50%.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Illahe Vineyards Viognier, Willamette Valley 2021 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Winery note
“After a brief hiatus in 2020, the jolly clusters of Goschie Farms are back! Aromas of lilac, honeydew melon, sweet pea, clover, and, of course, white peach dance in the glass. On the mouth, the tiniest hint of sweetness mingles with pumice, poppin’ acidity and clean finish. If this doesn’t get you excited for spring, we don’t know what will. Alcohol 13.00%.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

It’s back, baby, and this acid-driven rosé is better than ever! 
Illahe Estate Tempranillo Rose, Willamette Valley 2021 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Winery note
“Oregon’s best rosé of tempranillo (and the only one we can think of), is ready to delight again after its trip through stainless tanks and acacia puncheons. This year’s offering has strawberry, tea rose, raspberry lemonade, Bandon cranberry, lemon cucumber, and lime basil on the nose. The acidity keeps this wine fresh and alive, but the barrel fermentation helps to balance the mouth and keep it rich. Alcohol 12.50%”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Last call! This is the final case available from the winery
Goodfellow Family Cellars Durant Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 95 points
“Glistening red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes spice-accented red and blue fruits, cherry cola, potpourri and exotic spices, all sharpened by a smoky mineral topnote. Supple and energetic in the mouth, offering sappy, mineral- and spice-inflected black raspberry, cherry pie and candied lavender flavors that spread out steadily through the back half. Shows fine delineation and finishes extremely long and spicy, with polished tannins and lingering floral and red fruit liqueur notes.”
Winery note “Supple with juicy red fruit, flowers, dark and sweet spice, loamy earth and amaro. More ethereal than the Durant typically is. The palate is boysenberry, dark cherry, and pomegranate, light bodied but structural, with a great savory finish. 13.0% abv, finished with Diam 10. 160 cases.”

Pumphouse Block was the only 2019 Temperance Pinot bottles chez Goodfellow, and it is wicked good!
Goodfellow Family Cellars Pumphouse Block Temperance Hill Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($64.95) $51.90 special, 15 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 95 points
“Limpid violet. Vibrant red and blue fruit, floral oil, cola and exotic spice qualities on the intensely perfumed nose. Sweet and fleshy on the palate, offering concentrated raspberry, cherry, floral pastille and exotic spice flavors that tighten up and turn livelier as the wine opens up. Shows superb clarity and minerally lift and cut on an extremely long, focused finish shaped by smooth, well-judged tannins.”

Westrey’s estate vineyard runs far, far under the radar. A shame for such an old school classic.
Goodfellow Family Cellars Oracle Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Winery note
“100% whole cluster, this is a beautiful balance of sweet fruit, and savory finish. Red strawberry and pomegranate fruit followed quickly by tobacco leaf, and amaro spices. The most textured of the 2019 Pinot Noirs, there is a beautiful harmony to the palate, a supple weightless luxury, with great finishing acidity and grip. 13.2% abv, finished with Diam 10. 100 cases.”


Washington

Betz Family Winery Pere de Famille Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2017 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 20 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 95+ points
“The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Père de Famille showed beautifully. Coming mostly from Red Mountain (which I think excelled in 2017), it has beautiful cassis and black cherry fruit as well as notes of violets, spring flowers, and graphite. It’s tight, medium to full-bodied, and structured on the palate, and in need of 4-5 years of bottle age.”
Stephan Tanzer-Vinous 95 points “Medium ruby. Vibrant aromas of black fruits, violet and pepper. Densely packed and plush but also sharply delineated, with the intense black fruit and saline mineral flavors boasting terrific inner-mouth perfume; there’s also an exhilarating element of wildness here. As sappy as this powerful, gripping Cabernet is, it also hints at an almost candied sweetness. (Winemaker Skinner feels that the vinification in concrete was conducive for rounding out the structure of the Red Mountain fruit in this vintage and added that the year of aging in neutral oak helped the wine’s texture and allowed its fruit to come through.) Spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate on the back end, finishing with broad, dusty tannins. This wine too is plusher and more concentrated than the 2016 version. (13.8% alcohol; two-thirds fermented in concrete; aging began in 75% new oak but the wine was moved into neutral barriques for a final 12 months)”
Anthony Mueller-Wine Advocate 95 points “A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot, the 2017 Pere de Famille has a rich nose of black fruit and a structured, chewy core. Medium-bodied and dense on the palate, the wine shows an impeccable balance and steadily growing tannins on the back of the mid-palate. Soft purple flowers evolve with the robust expression while still in the mouth, and the finish is bold and precise—the flavors persist with great complexity long after the wine has left the mouth. This is an age-worthy wine with 13.8% alcohol and nice balance. 1,100 cases of this simply stunning wine were made. It’s a delicious wine, and I highly recommend it.”
James Suckling 95 points “This is a complex and subtle red with chocolate, spice and walnut aromas and flavors. Medium-to full-bodied. Tile and iron undertones. Juicy and flavorful on the finish. A beautiful, balanced red. Very fine, polished tannins. Subtle and friendly. Regional blend that shows the story of the vintage. A blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon, 6% petit verdot and 4% merlot. Drink or hold.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $78


France – Burgundy

Domaine Servin Bougros, Chablis Grand Cru 2019 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 93 points
“The 2019 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru has a striking nose, one that makes an instant impression with fresh clementine, freshly sliced passion fruit, black currant leaf and a touch of peach skin. The palate is well balanced, with a saline entry, fresh and vibrant, leading to a lightly spiced but persistent finish. I appreciate the way this Bougros fans out. Certainly one of the domaine’s best offerings this vintage. Superb.”
Burghound 93 points “Sweet Spot. There is a plentitude of classic Chablis elements present on the green fruit and lemon rind-suffused nose that is trimmed in moderate wood influence. The succulent, round and admirably concentrated larger-scaled flavors possess plenty of sappy dry extract that confers a seductive texture to the mid-palate that contrasts somewhat with the powerful, impressively long and youthfully austere finale. This imposing effort will definitely need at least a few years to develop more depth, but it should be worth the wait.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 91 points “Scents of citrus oil, peach, honeycomb and flowers preface the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine that’s rich and satiny, with an ample core of fruit and a somewhat heady, oak-inflected finish. While it possesses plenty of weight and substance, it isn’t my favorite grand cru bottling chez Servin this year. I suspect, however, that it will calm down with bottle age.”

Domaine Servin Butteaux, Chablis Premier Cru 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 94 points
“The 2019 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru might well possess the finest aromatics among Servin’s Premier Crus this vintage, leaping out of the glass with vivacious lemon zest, Granny Smith apple and crushed stone notes, and then becoming more floral with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a slightly reduced opening that works in its favor. There is wonderful purity to this Butteaux, and although a little oak still needs to be assimilated with bottle age, give it a couple of years and it will be positively singing.”
Burghound 92 points “Sweet Spot Outstanding. Noticeable but not really intrusive wood frames ripe pear liqueur-like aromas. There is perceptible wood on the palate as well of the muscular, serious and very solidly concentrated medium-bodied flavors that evidence fine power on the lemony, dry and lengthy finish. This is on the woodier side today, but the necessary mid-palate density certainly appears to be present for it to be progressively integrated.”

Domaine Servin Mont de Milieu, Chablis Premier Cru 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Burghound 91 points
“Outstanding. A slightly riper, more expressive and subtly exotic nose is composed by notes of both white and yellow orchard fruit, quinine and a discreet application of wood. The lavishly rich and sappy medium-bodied flavors possess solid concentration that buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the lingering finish. This is somewhat monolithic at present and will need at least a few years to better harmonize.”
Neal Martin-Vinous 91 points “The 2019 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru has a gorgeous bouquet featuring sensual aromas of orange blossom and peppermint and hints of lemon sherbet. The palate is well balanced with a slightly honeyed opening. This is clearly one of the domaine’s richer takes on the vintage, with tropical notes of passion fruit and pineapple defining the finish. As such, I would broach this earlier than even some of their Village Crus, such as the VV Sélection Massale. Lovely, but maybe not long-term.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu unwinds in the glass with notes of Anjou pear, white flowers, green apple, oyster shell and Parmesan cheese rind. Medium-bodied, tangy and precise, it’s delicately textural, with bright acids and an understated profile that reflects a comparatively early harvest.”

Domaine Servin Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2019 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 95 points
“The 2019 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet that is a little fuller and feels riper than the Bougros, hints of orange blossom and apricot infusing the citrus fruit, the flintiness only becoming more apparent with aeration. The palate is extremely well balanced, delivering the tension that you expect from a Chablis. Spicier notes of ginger and lemongrass surface toward the very cohesive finish, which feels a tad sweeter than Servin’s other Grand Crus this vintage. Superb.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is superb, bursting with aromas of orange oil, oyster shell, white flowers and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, it’s concentrated and vibrant, concluding with a long, sapid finish. As usual, this is one of the high points in the Servin range.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Domaine Servin Vaillons, Chablis Premier Cru 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 8 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points
“A real success this year is the 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a medium to full-bodied, satiny wine evocative of citrus zest, apple blossom, white peach and rock salt. Unusually chiseled and incisive, it concludes with a long, penetrating finish.”
Burghound 92 points “Sweet spot outstanding. An elegant and quite citrusy nose is comprised by notes of white pepper, quinine, iodine and tidal pool. The impressively concentrated medium-bodied flavors also possess a beguiling texture white retaining plenty of punch on the super-saline and bone-dry finale that offers both excellent depth and persistence. This too is worth your interest.”
Neal Martin-Vinous 91 points “The 2019 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has an extravagant nose of nicely defined pineapple, lime and light passion fruit aromas. The palate is well balanced with a pleasant fatness, although, like the Vaucoupin, it is missing some tension and nervosité on the finish. A redeeming saline note crops up on the aftertaste.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Domaine de Montille Les Malconsorts Cuvee Christiane, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru 2019 750ML ($899.95) $749 special, only 1 bottle in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 94-96 points
“The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christiane 1er Cru is whole cluster fruit and has a touch more intensity on the nose, while the fruit is a little darker: bilberry and blackberry, plus touches of violet petals. The medium-bodied palate is rounded with a refined opening, a smooth texture and good grip. Plenty of freshness here, and then the structure synonymous with Malconsorts kicks in on the finish. Superb”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $899.99


Austria

Weingut Bernhard Ott Fass 4 Gruner Veltliner, Wagram 2020 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 12 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 92 points
“In the first moment this is quite funky, but it blows off straight away to reveal a complex gruner veltliner with tons of spring-meadow and wild-herb character. Generous yet sleek, ripe yet cool and elegant, this has stunning balance with really well-integrated, racy acidity and a mineral finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 90 + points “Made for the first time in 1988 and sourced from excellent vineyards, Fass 4 is a classic, elegant and gastronomic Grüner Veltliner of excellent quality. The 2020 Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 offers a clear, dense, fresh and stony white with slightly flinty aromas of ripe yellow-skinned apples and ripe Williams pears. On the palate, this medium-bodied, round, lush and elegant wine reveals piquant, mineral acidity and a firm phenolic structure with a fresh and stimulating finish. 12.5% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Weingut Bernhard Ott ‘Am Berg’ Gruner Veltliner, Wagram 2020 750ML ($24.95) $19.50 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 88 points
“Aged in 30% large oak vats, the 2020 Grüner Veltliner Am Berg comes from vineyards in Wagram and Kamptal that are connected anyway but, since 2017, cannot be marketed under the name of the home region of the vintner. The wine opens with a clear and fresh, beautifully delicate and spicy white stone fruit aroma. On the palate, this is a light and fresh, straight, seriously structured and grippy Veltliner with 11.8% alcohol and fine lemon fruit bitters on the sustainable finish. Tasted at the domain in June 2021.”
Skurnik Imports note “Am Berg or “From the Mountain” is the basic wine and a great choice for by the glass. Light in texture and very fresh, this is an organically farmed, classic GV from loess soils in Feuersbrunn.” 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!
 





Sparkling News:

Delamotte & Salon

Arriving March 11th

Delamotte is best known as the more affordable arm of Salon—the original luxury-collectible single vineyard Blanc de Blancs from Le Mesnil.  While that’s understandable, it tends to ignore the fact that Delamotte is a Champagne house of note in its own right. These are brilliant Cote des Blancs Champagnes worthy of attention (and cellaring!)

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($89.95) $79 pre-arrival special, only 24 bottles available
Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne NV 375ML ($44.95) $38 pre-arrival special, only 24 half-bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points
“The latest rendition of Delamotte’s NV Brut Blanc de Blancs is drinking very well out of the gates, offering up aromas of crisp orchard fruit and citrus zest mingled with hints of fresh bread and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with bright acids and chalky grip, concluding with a dry finish, this is a classy, seamless wine that will offer a broad drinking window.”
Wine Spectator 91 points “A crisp blanc de blancs in an aperitif style, with a racy streak of acidity creating a mouthwatering frame for tangerine, glazed apricot, lemon thyme and minerally chalk and smoke notes as they ride the lacy mousse. Drink now. –AN”

Delamotte Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special, only 24 bottles available
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 90 points
“Pillowy and charming, the latest rendition of Delamotte’s NV Brut offers up attractive aromas of orchard fruit, fresh bread and citrus oil. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and elegant, with a pretty pinpoint mousse and lively balancing acids, it’s drinking well out of the gates but will also develop gracefully for a few years in the cellar.”
Wine Spectator 90 points “A creamy Champagne with a delicate mousse, featuring a subtle range of poached raspberry, lemon curd, oyster shell and almond paste flavors. Sleek and mouthwatering. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Drink now. –AN”

Salon Cuvee ‘S’ Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne 2012 750ML ($1,499.95) $1,199 pre-arrival special, only 2 bottles available
Decanter 99 points
“The Salon 2012 has scintillating aromatic brilliance and purity with seductive scents of white fruit, citrus zest and spring flowers capped by a touch of spice. With some air, pastry-like notes add to its complex yet elegant fragrance, which remains essentially citrussy in character. On the palate, it reverberates with kinetic energy coursing through its crystalline and elongated structure, making this vintage Champagne seem a bit atypical for Salon. Indeed, this edition is supremely elegant and subtle to a degree that surpasses those of other recent vintages. Salon 2012 is a racy thoroughbred that will go the distance without effort, a telltale sign being its chalk-infused yet airborne finish. In time, it will in all likelihood merit the ultimate accolade of a 100-point score. Dosage: 6g/L. Disgorged: March 2021. Drinking Window 2021 – 2050.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 98+ points “Back in 2014, Salon’s president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne” and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn’t be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, wet stones, freshly baked bread, white currants and oyster shell, it’s full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit, racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long and resonant finish, this is a structured and powerful Salon that’s a lot more incisive than, for example, the 2002 at the same stage, but which also carries more muscle and substance than a leaner vintage such as 2007. For readers that have balked at the pricing of the magnum-only 2008, the 2012 isn’t far off the latter’s level in quality, and will presumably be distributed more conventionally.”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2012 Salon is absolutely gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of radiance and energy that seems to capture a little bit of elements of some of its older siblings. The expression of fruit is radiant and quite overt, but without reaching the tropical exuberance of the 2006. In shape, the 2012 recalls the mid-weight style of 2007 with the freshness of 2008, but not quite the youthful austerity of that wine. If that sounds like an appealing combination, well it is. The 2012 Salon is all harmony and class.”

Shop our complete selection of some of the finest Champagnes available!
 

Domaine Guiberteau

When a winemaker starts generating the amount of charge that Romain Guiberteau has built in such a short amount of time, our ears perk up, and we take notice. A quick look at the volume of somm chatter being written about the Domaine assures you that the wines must be absolutely electric. In short: they are. Consider that Dani Foucault of Clos Rougeard took so much interest in Romain that he regularly insisted that visitors also go to Guiberteau to taste. 

The Loire is full of cutting edge producers as of late and, while there are plenty of grapes to go around, some of the best belong to the Guiberteau family. After selling their fruit for almost 40 years, young Romain came back from an uninspired law career to take over the farming of his family’s 14.5 hectares. The prize of this acreage was 7 hectares on a hill by the name of Brézé, considered by some as the best terroir in the entire Loire. The entire estate is planted to Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, and the wines are pure, pungently wonderful expressions of the two grapes, somehow managing to be wild and alive while remaining crystal clear in their delivery. From the entry level Saumur Rouge (quite likely the best introductory wine you’ll find) to the pinnacle of his Saumur Blanc Brézé, the purity of the wines is remarkable.

There is a serious trend afoot in the Loire. Some producers of note are untouchable now, both due to price and tiny production, and we can only hope Domaine Guiberteau doesn’t shoot out of reach. Now is the time to try these wines or pick up a few to lay down for the long haul. They’ll age beautifully, and you can have one of those back-when wines to brag about in the decades to come.

“When one has been at something for a long time, there is no greater gift than to find oneself as dumbstruck as a novice, deeply moved by the discovery of something truly profound. The hill of Brézé in Saumur has been such a discovery for us. On this hill, chenins taste like none other in the Loire. They are so uncompromising, so violently assertive, so brilliantly mineral, it reminds us of the first time we were confronted by the Mosel. The great Curnonsky, a Loire native, considered Brézé to be one of the most important terroirs in the Loire valley. No [expletive] kidding. Romain Guiberteau owns some of the best land in Brézé, and makes dry chenins of punk rock violence, yet of Bach-like logic and profoundness. He is creating quite a stir.” –Becky Wasserman & Co

Highlights In Stock Now:

Restocked!
Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge, Loire 2019 750ML ($44.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Rouge, Loire 2019 ($269.95) $219 special (That’s only $36.50 per bottle) 
Stephan Reinhardt -Wine Advocate 91 points
“From three parcels with vines planted between 1955 and 1957 on silt and sand topsoil covering softer limestone bedrock. the 2019 Saumur Rouge is pure Cabernet Franc naturally fermented in tank for six months. The 2019 opens with a pure and refreshing as well as spicy/floral nose with dark fruit and fresh lemon aromas as well as stony notes and a nice reduction. Wonderfully untamed. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied, fresh and silky-textured Saumur with a stimulating salty, round and fruity finish. At this young age, charm is not its greatest talent, but with bottle age, this will be a terrific Saumur rouge for many dishes and opportunities. I like this tight and traditional, straightforward style that might be a bit unpleasant at this early stage but will reward those with patience. 13.5% alcohol”

Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Brézé, Loire 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points
“From a 1.2 hectare-vineyard planted in 1933 and 1952 on sand and clay soils topping the softer tuff limestone bedrock, the 2017 Saumur Brézé was aged on fine lees for 18 months in barrels (new and one to two years old) and displays a golden-yellow color along with a deep, pure and intense, floral bouquet of crushed stones, iodine, blossom honey, tuff and ripe fruits such as mirabelles and pears—very complex and fascinating in its seamless composition. On the palate, this is an intense yet pure, fresh and salty, utterly mineral and tightly structured Chenin with fine tannins and a long, intense and well-concentrated finish. A gorgeous wine that already drinks well today, but it can be aged for many years. 13% alcohol. Tasted in May 2021.”

Shop our addition stock of Guiberteau on our web store now!



New Arrivals from Germany:

Kruger-Rumpf, Von Winning & Joh. Jos. Prum


Kruger Rumpf

Kruger Rumpf is a consistent favorite at Vinopolis, and justifiably so. Sitting at the most northerly point of the Nahe, one of the world’s new favorite German wine regions, they have been growing wine grapes since 1708. Grapes were sold to a regional cooperative until Stefan Rumpf began their estate program in 1984. Their estate holdings now encompass just under 124 acres in both the Nahe and Reinhessen, the majority planted to Riesling. This embrace of innovation has continued into the next generation, with Georg Rumpf transitioning the estate to organic farming practices and spearheading a reduced spray program. Also members of the VDP, an invite-only consortium of German producers largely considered the best in the country (membership numbers less than 200 nationwide), they have clearly not let their size interfere with the quality of their wines.

At Vinopolis we carry a dizzying array of their wines. The majority are Riesling from their estate holdings. The top off-dry wine from the estate comes from the “Dautenpflänzer” from near the town of Munster. This is a prime Grand Cru site of the lower Nahe, a place that yields wines of power and resonance, and Kruger-Rumpf is the primary (and best) landholder. Their top dry wine comes from the Abtei, Im Pitterberg, and Burgberg vineyards, which are more suited to the production of bright, dry bottlings than the Dautenpflänzer. Their “1937” is a single-block bottling of the Abtei vineyard’s oldest and steepest section. Despite the vine age and fantastic quality, it’s just half the price of similar unicorn wines (think Carl Loewen’s “1896”). The Burgberg is one of the top GG sites in the upper Nahe, tiny and impossibly steep, and the Kruger-Rumpf version shows off the classicism and elegance of the site.

New Arrivals from Kruger-Rumpf:

Kruger-Rumpf Abtei 1937 (Reserv) Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 96 points
“This super mineral and super elegant dry riesling has a stunning balance, but is only just beginning to open up. Golden aromas, but no hint of opulence or overripeness. Long, graceful finish. From vines planted in 1937. Drink or hold.”
Wine & Spirits 95 points “[Wine & Spirits Winery of the Year in 2021 Featured Wine] One of the steepest vineyards in all of Germany, the Abtei Rupertsberg has been planted to vines since the 12th century, when Hildegard vom Bingen established a monastery there. In 2015, the Rumpfs acquired a parcel of 85-year-old vines rooted in soils that sparkle with phyllite, a metamorphic rock more common in neighboring Rheingau. Whether it’s the soils, the aspect or the mystical qualities that originally drew Saint Hildegard to the area, the vineyard produced a wine of uncanny clarity and grace in 2019. It sings in high, clear tones of lemon and sunshine, intense and arresting; the citrus notes edge toward passionfruit and candied orange rinds, filling the head with their fragrance. It’s delicate and breezy, with an energy that suggests there’s much more to come with time.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Kruger-Rumpf Abtei 1937 (Reserv) Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2020 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points
“A truly unique wine that has the most beautiful golden nose that is fruity, but so much more than that. So many wild herb and flower nuances. Stunning concentration, combined with a feeling of weightlessness. Super-mineral finish that dances over the palate and off into the far distance. Drink or hold.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Kruger-Rumpf Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2020 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Skurnik Imports note
“A cuvee of Kapellenberg and Dautenpflänzer selction of the younger vineyards 15-25 years. Soil Type: Quartz, loess, some red slate. Production: stainless steel, fermentation with natural yeasts. Münsterer Kapellenberg – quartz, with some red slate – several sections which are very steep, but similar to Rheinberg where the lower sections have richer soils. Münsterer Dautenpflänzer – loesss, subsoil is quartz – Daute means “shoot” and pflänzer means “plant”, an homage to the fact that this was once a nursery. South facing, the older section is steep, and the vineyard is an amphitheater shape.”

Kruger-Rumpf Scheurebe Spatlese, Nahe 2020 750ML ($31.95) $26 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Skurnik Imports note
“Completely from Dautenpflänzer old vineyrdas planted in the 50s. Soil Type Quarzite. Age of Vines (Average) 35 years. Yield 40hl/ha. Farming Technique Sustainable. Fermentation & Elevage Stainless steel, fermentation with natural yeasts. Total Acidity 8.5. Residual Sugar 73 g/L. 8.5% Alcohol.”

Von Winning

Von Winning makes some of the most profound white wines on the planet. The combination of incredible vineyard sites, meticulous winemaking and a commitment to producing only the finest wines yields exactly what you’d hope: white wines of depth and complexity, with grace and mineral power. The Rieslings are dry, but unlike some of their neighbors, powerful fruit isn’t the goal here. No, the Von Winning’s Rieslings offer floral and mineral flavors that are both intense and furtive.

But what really separates Von Winning from their peers in Germany are their Sauvignon Blancs. Germany is of course not where you’d expect to find some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world, but the wines will make a believer out of anyone. These are rich, textural examples that move beyond varietal characteristics and into unique territory. Their closest comparison is probably the top Sauvignon of Friuli (eg, Miani, Ronco del Gnemiz), or the very best estates in Austria.

“The fact that this estate is crafting some of the very best dry wines in Germany is no fluke, rather a result of nearly obsessive winemaker Stephan Attman’s commitment to both dedicated cultivation of Deidesheim and Forst’s best sites and meticulous work in the cellar. Von Winning maintains some of the oldest parcels in Grosses Gewächs vineyards smattered across Forst, Deidesheim, and Ruppertsberg. Attman’s every decision is informed by great enthusiasm and experiences at estates in the Cote d’Or and abroad.” – Skurnik Wines

Newly Arrived from Von Winning:    

Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2020 750ML ($41.95) $33 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Winery note
“Paradiesgarten is located on top of the slope right underneath the forest, growth on sandstone and is our coolest, nest and most elegant site. Completely barrel fermented and aged on the lees for one year, it has a silky texture but a firm structure and great length.”

Von Winning Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2020 750ML ($24.95) $19.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Importer note
“Limestone, Loam, & Red Sandstone. Fermentation & Elevage: Stainless Steel.”

Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc II Trocken, Pfalz 2020 750ML ($24.95) $19.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Importer note
“Multiple vineyards in Deidesheim, mostly Paradiesgarten, but there is also fruit from Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker and Kallstadter Steinacker. Soil: sandy loam, red sandstone, basalt, & löss. Fermentation & Elevage: Fermented entirely in stainless steel.”

Von Winning Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2019 750ML ($89.95) $68 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 95-96 points
“The 2019 Ungeheuer GG is deep, intense and flinty-mineral on the refined and elegant nose. Full-bodied and creamy on the still yeasty palate, this is a powerful, elegant and refined, complex and sustainable Riesling with iodine flavors on the salty and lemon-fresh finish. This is a great Ungeheuer, and it will age for more than 10 years. Tasted as a sample in May 2020.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Joh. Jos. Prum

Manfred and Katarina Prum make some of the finest and most sought after wines of the middle-Mosel. The Prum wines are high-wire acts of tension between fruit and intense minerality and display their terroir in the most expressive way. Part of this is that their parcels have lots of old, ungrafted vines and part of it is spontaneous fermentation and whatever magic the Prum family uses in the cellar. No matter what, these are always some of the finest and longest lived wines in Germany. As you can expect with one of the most famous cult producers in Germany, if not the world quantities are highly allocated! 

Newly Arrived from JJ Prum:    

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2020 1.5L ($149.95) $129 special
Mosel Fine Wines 91 points
“The 2020er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett is still marked by some fine flinty reduction at first but quickly reveals an aromatic and superbly attractive side including whipped almond cream, grapefruit, white flowers, vineyard peach, herbs, and a hint of Pina Colada. The wine proves very delicate and airy on the light-weighted palate. The aftertaste leaves one with superbly smoky and fruity flavors, which still proves tight but loaded with energy. This is a superb Kabinett in the making. 2027-2040.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2020 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2020 1.5L ($149.95) $129 special

Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “The 2020er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett greets one with a superbly aromatic and refined floral nose of tangerine, candied grapefruit, minty herbs, some floral nuances, and yellow peach. The wine is very delicate and rather smooth on the spicy and suave palate. The finish proves tight and lean as some fine zesty elements come through and add a very playful and truly Kabinett footprint. The wine combines a feeling of light ripeness and cool freshness and proves a very successful Kabinett. 2028-2040.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese Mosel 2020 750ML ($59.95) $49.90 special
Mosel Fine Wines 92+ points
“The 2020er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese offers a quite rich and even slightly ripe nose of almond cream and bakery products as well as honeyed yellow peach, William’s pear, apricot, and anise, all wrapped into smoky and refined elements. The wine coats the palate with ample and sweet fruits, which give a smoother and ampler structure to the wine. The finish has however more presence and intensity, but still needs to integrate its tale of initial sweetness. This clearly has some upside potential as it gains finesse and elegance over time. 2028-2045.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Mosel 2020 750ML ($54.95) $45 special
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points
“The 2020er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese still proves flinty, quite smoky, and reductive at first before it almost reluctantly reveals its super nose made of stone fruits, vineyard peach, Conference pear, anise, and herbs. The wine is carried by a beautifully ripe and zesty acidity running through the palate which lifts up the ripe flavors of apricot, almond cream, and pineapple. The finish is light-weighted, very precise, and focused. This is a beautiful Spätlese. 2028-2045.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Mosel 2020 375ML ($41.95) $39 special
Mosel Fine Wines 93+ points
“The 2020er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese offers a beautifully pure and ripe nose of smoke, grapefruit, lime, vineyard peach, minty herbs, and bacon-driven aromatics from residual from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine coats the palate with gorgeously ripe and juicy notes of fruits and leaves a superbly pure, smooth, and almost soft and suave feel in the hugely long finish. The aftertaste is still loaded with sweetness in need of integration, which will need quite some time to integrate. There is upside potential as the wine gains finesse with age. 2035-2050+.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Mosel 2020 375ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
Mosel Fine Wines 94 points
“The 2020er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese offers a gorgeously attractive and ripe nose of almond cream, honeyed peach, smoke, tangerine, orange zest, candied grapefruit, and apricot. The wine is luscious and proves well on the sweet side on the palate. There is presence and intensity, yet the finish is already airier and more refined than what one could initially expect. Patience will be required, as usual, for the wine to develop its full complexity and integrate all its elements. 2035-2050.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Mosel 2020 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Mosel Fine Wines 94 points
“The 2020er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese offers an attractive nose of smoke, flint, apricot flower, a hint of melon, Conference pear, greengage, and anise, as well as some exotic nuances. The wine proves delicately complex and fruity on the smooth palate. Fruity and ripe flavors of pear, melon, and coconut cream come through in the well-delineated and superbly complex finish. This is a gorgeous and beautifully complex Auslese in the making. 2030-2050.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Mosel 2020 750ML ($149.95) $125 special
Mosel Fine Wines 94+ points
“The 2020er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese GK was made from shriveled rather than botrytized fruit and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a superbly elegant and refined nose of wet stone, mango, herbs, apricot flower, almond cream, honeyed peach, candied grapefruit, and guava. The wine proves deliciously smooth and creamy on the palate and leaves a great feel of candied citrusy fruits and sweet exotic flavors in the well-delineated and precise finish packed with fruity notes of pear and peach. This gorgeous noble-sweet wine will need more than a decade to fully integrate its sweetness and has even some upside as it gains finesse and complexity. 2035-2060.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Mosel 2020 750ML ($149.95) $129 special
Mosel Fine Wines 95 points
“The 2020er Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GK was made from shriveled rather than botrytized fruit and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a most gorgeous, superbly complex, and rather subtle nose of minty herbs, candied grapefruit, fine honeyed peach, anise, smoke, and herbs. The wine proves much richer and riper on the palate, where plenty of exotic and ripe fruits join the party. This fruity, smooth, and juicy side is nicely wrapped into zest and tension in the very long finish. Expect more than a decade of patience to get the full impact of this stunning wine. But you will not regret. 2035-2060.”

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