Vinopolis Newsletter– Friday 09/01/2023

Special Arrival
Heralded as “the German Montrachets” by the great Jancis Robinson, Keller is a totally unique phenomenon in wine. These coveted wines are cultivated in the Hügelland, an otherwise middling region of the Rheinhessen, you won’t find wines with this level of intensity and clarity for a better price. Period.
Keller Silvaner Westhofener Trocken 2022 750ml $69 special, 3 bottles available
Keller Grauer Burgunder (Pinot Gris) Reserve 2021 750ml $89 special, 12 bottles available
Keller Riesling Limestone 2021 750ml $36 special, 6 bottles available
Keller Riesling Limestone Kabinett 2022 750ml $44.50 special, 6 bottles available
Keller Riesling Von Der Fels Trocken 2022 750ml $49 special, 11 bottles available
Keller Riesling RR 2022 750ml $79 special, 12 bottles available
Keller Rieslaner Auslese 2022 375ml $45 special, 12 bottles available
Keller Pius Auslese 2022 375ml $54.50 special, 12 bottles available
New Arrivals
“Arterberry Maresh, Dundee”
Arterberry Maresh Chardonnay Dux Vineyard 2016 750ml $72 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 Points ” ‘I don’t usually use young vines,’ Jim Maresh told me, ‘but I decided to go for it with this vineyard.’ The 2016 Chardonnay Dux Vineyard has a beautiful, layered nose of clotted cream, lemon confit, acacia flowers, yellow apples, honey and toast. Medium-bodied, it’s wonderfully concentrated in the mouth with pure tree fruit flavors with toasty and floral accents. It’s framed by very juicy acidity, finishing very long and nuanced with a great bit of phenolic texture. 125 cases produced.”
Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard 2018 750ml $69 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ Points “The 2018 Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard is an incredible wine. It opens slowly to an arresting perfume of dusty earth, dried rose petals, tea leaves, licorice and amaro with a wealth of bright red berry fruit at the core. The palate is elegant, supple and juicy, with an expansive fan of layered, spicy flavors and a very long finish. It’s hard to resist now, but it will have more to offer with time in bottle.”
Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard 2021 750ml $72 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 98+ Points “The 2021 Pinot Noir Maresh Vineyard is an arresting wine that grows in bottle over several days, offering singular expression, purity and a touch of magic. Medium ruby, the nose is very complex and offers something new with each return to the glass. A deep core of pomegranate and cranberry sauce blossoms to orange peel, tea leaves, mossy bark and lilac with an array of amaro-like undertones. The palate is medium-bodied and has tremendously concentrated flavors for its harmonious, velvety frame (this sits at only 12.8% alcohol). Layered, dynamic and very long, it stands out as one of the best expressions of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir I’ve ever had the pleasure of tasting.”
Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Weber Vineyard 2021 750ml $72 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 97+ Points “Out of curiosity, winemaker Jim Maresh and I re-tasted the 2019 Pinot Noir Weber Vineyard to compare to the recently bottled 2021s. (Weber Vineyard was previously owned by Jim’s grandfather and part of the Maresh Vineyard.) It’s beginning to curl inward, taking plenty of time to blossom from touches of iodine and flint to wild blackberries, tea leaves, lavender, salted licorice and candied orange peel. The medium-bodied palate is powerful and refreshing, with youthfully latent fruit and a long, spicy finish. Purchasers can look forward to an exciting evolution as this matures over the next 10-15 years.”
Also currently available from Arterberry Maresh:
Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Old Vines 2021 750ml $56.50 special, 36+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 98 Points “The 2021 Pinot Noir Old Vines comes from the Maresh Vineyard, from vines that were planted in 1970, and has a singular expression with detailed, spicy accents reminiscent of bitters or amaro. “You only get those high-toned essences if you pick al dente,” winemaker Jim Maresh explains. “It’s easy to volatilize all that away.” The Old Vines has a medium ruby color and arresting aromas of orange bitters, mossy bark and tobacco leaves complementing a deep core of pomegranate, rhubarb and cranberry. The light-bodied palate offers remarkably pure, detailed flavors. It has velvety tannins, seamless freshness and a very long finish with a flourish of spicy accents.”
Arterberry Maresh Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard 2021 750ml $72 special, 30 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 Points “The 2021 Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard comes from Wente vines planted in 1983 and was matured in 20% Damy barrels for nine months before finishing in stainless steel. The nose is alluringly spicy, opening from flint and roasted almonds to an intense core of savory yellow peach and beeswax. The palate is satiny and unctuous with ripe fruit, floral perfume and flinty streaks. Despite its luxurious texture and flavor, it maintains its shimmery acidity and boasts a long, dynamic finish. It’s a special expression that offers pleasurable generosity and precision.”
“Nicolas-Jay, Newberg”
Nicolas Jay L’ensemble Pinot Noir 2021 750ml $69 special, 4 bottles available
Not reviewed yet, 2019 reviews provided for context
James Suckling 95 Points “Crystal clear and precise with ripe strawberry, light spice and brightness. Sort of airy and ethereal on the nose. Full-bodied with tightness and focus, linearity and depth. Goes on for minutes. Unfined and unfiltered.”
Wine Spectator 95 Points “A lovely wine, supple and harmonious, with multilayered raspberry and cherry flavors that mix with brown baking spices and a hint of mineral as this builds richness and tension toward polished tannins. Drink now.”
Nicolas Jay Own Rooted Pinot Noir 2021 750ml $89 special, 3 bottles available
Winemaker Jean-Nicolas Méo “A medium-dark brooding wine quickly reveals dark forest floor aromas, Brooks plums and an outstanding candied orange zest. There’s a high level of spice on the nose that alternates between dusty cinnamon, juniper and a sweet holiday Christmas spice. It’s exotic aromatically, and seems to unfold differently with each pass. A high-profiled wine texturally, with forest floor elements intertwined with blackberry compote and delicate pine resin. The tannin structure begins to take hold with dusty cocoa powder, black current and sweet purple flower. It has a generosity in the mid-palate, but finishes with impressive length and tension. Just a spectacular vintage of this 100% ungrafted, old-vine, limited production bottling.”
“Bedrock Wine Co, Sonoma County”
Bedrock Evangelho Heritage Red 2021 750ml $44.50 special, 25 bottles available
Bedrock Evangelho 2021 750ml Case of 12 $479 special, 3 available [$39.91 per bottle]
Bedrock Evangelho 2021 750ml Case of 6 $249 special, 4 available [$41.50 per bottle]
Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points “From Zinfandel grown in the pure sand soils of this incredible site, the 2021 Evangelho Vineyard Heritage is lifted and pure with raspberry liqueur, fresh flowers, and brushy earth. Medium-bodied, with a highly refined structure, it reveals a floral perfume of herbes de Provence and rose petals that lasts long after the wine has dissipated. With fine tannins and a gorgeous, sandy mineral texture, it’s a beautiful wine to drink over the next 10 or more years.”
Vinous 94 Points “The 2021 Evangelho Heritage Wine is dark, sensual and wonderfully expressive. Blue fruit, spice, lavender and leather all meld together in this beautifully layered Zinfandel-based field blend. The 2021 possesses unreal complexity and depth, with much of its intensity coming from punishingly low yields. The 2021 is simply fabulous.”
Bedrock Hudson Vineyard T Block Syrah 2021 750ml $59 special, 12 bottles available
Vinous 94 Points “The 2021 Syrah Hudson Vineyard T Block is a dense, powerful wine. Black cherry, black olive, spice, leather, lavender, and chocolate race across the palate brightened with a good dose of whole cluster suaveness. The 2021 is a full bodied, heavy wine that deftly balances rich, layered fruit and vibrant energy.”
“Piero Benevelli, Piedmont”
The Benevelli holdings are mostly concentrated in the southeastern-facing hillside cru of “Ravera” in the deep southeast of the Barolo zone. The wines from Ravera have the distinction of combining the structural strength of neighboring Serralunga d’Alba with the concentration and richness of Bussia and the other crus further north. Massimo’s Baroli are approachable young but like any great Barolo, reveal their true potential after at least five years or more in bottle … classic and full of pleasure.
-Kermit Lynch
Benevelli Barolo Le Coste Di Monforte 2017 750ml $59 special, 21 bottles available
Vinous 94 Points “Benevelli’s 2017 Barolo Le Coste di Monforte is complex and inviting. Iron, white pepper, mint and dried leaves give the 2017 an aromatic profile that is quite distinctive. This powerhouse Monforte Barolo offers plenty of intensity and structure in a super-classic, austere style that is sure to find many admirers. Its translucent personality and nuance are both evident from the get-go.”
Benevelli Barolo Masconi 2017 750ml $59 special, 22 bottles available
Benevelli Barolo Ravera Di Monforte 2017 750ml $59 special, 8 bottles available
“Fattoria Le Pupille, Tuscany”
Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino Di Scansano 2019 750ml $16 special, 36 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90+ Points “The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Morellino di Scansano is a bright and lively value wine that trusts its basic identity to cherry, dried raspberry and some wild bramble or rosemary essence. This is a lean and sprightly red wine that boats the freshness and intensity of Sangiovese along with the wild fruit and blue flower sensations that are most often associated with this mighty Tuscan grape. I could see a happy pairing with oven-cooked pasta or lasagna.”
Fattoria Le Pupille Morellino Di Scansano Reserve 2018 750ml $24 special, 36 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 Points “The Fattoria le Pupille 2018 Morellino di Scansano Riserva is Sangiovese with an addition of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (drawn from various vineyard sites, including the historic plot that makes Saffredi, the estate’s top wine). Fermentation occurs in stainless steel, just like with all the other estate reds, and this Riserva goes into oak casks for 15 months. The 2018 and 2019 vintages share similar characteristics in that they are both cooler, certainly compared to 2020. This is a solid, mid-weight red that boasts a very pretty and vibrant bouquet. There are floral notes and wild cherry capped by graphite or pencil shavings. The wine reveals a lovely, dark garnet color in the glass, and some of that oak spice comes out as well.”
“Arnaud Lambert, Loire Valley”
Lambert Coulee De St-Cyr Chenin Blanc 2020 750ml $41.90 special, 36 bottles available
2018 review for reference
Wine Advocate 93 Points “From an east-facing 1.7-hectare plot (Les Perriéres) on top of the SCB hill, the 2018 Saumur Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg Coulée de St-Cyr opens with a deep, pure, yet intense and complex bouquet of ripe fruits intertwined with notes of crushed limestone and popcorn. Pure, refined and salty on the palate, this is a full-bodied, quite rich yet tight, fresh and persistently salty Chenin with fine yet sustainable tannins and a lot of nervy lime juice, salt and tension. This is a fantastic Chenin from limestone terroir (topped with a 50-centimeter layer of clay and salt) that is normally used for Cabernet Franc.”
“JB Becker, Rheingau”
JB Becker Walkenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken 2021 750ml $33 special, 12 bottles available
Vinopolnote “This is an elegant, mineral driven wine that is a true Trocken on the palette. Spatlese in this case refers to the amount of sugar in the grape when it was finished, not the end result.
JB Becker Walkenberg Riesling Spatlese Trocken “Alte Reben” 2020 750ml $37 special, 8 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 Points “The 2020 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese trocken Alte Reben offers a pure, intense and complex, highly refined bouquet with clear and elegant fruit intertwined with very fine terroir aromas. Pure and enormously salty on the palate, this is a dense and tensioned yet also finessed and highly elegant Walkenberg with fine tannins and a long, complex finish. This is another highlight of the 2020 vintage that is shining bright and pure here.”
JB Becker Riesling Oberberg Auslese Trocken 2021 750ml $54.50 special, 12 bottles available
Vom Boden “The Oberberg is for sure the more impressive, the more powerful and textural. I suspect this will be the favorite for most people – it is just a bit more complete and it’s clear why he chose to pour it. Both Auslese Trocken, compared to the Walkenberg Spätlese Trocken, feel riper (which they are, both clock in at 13.5%) yet they also show more fruit, they are more perfumed – perhaps the higher alcohols make the wines more aromatic. There is plenty of stone fruit and citrus, dense and coating, in both Auslese Trocken.”
JB Becker Riesling Rodchen Auslese Trocken 2021 750ml $54.50 special, 12 bottles available
JB Becker Riesling Sonnenberg Spatlese 2021 750ml $33 special, 12 bottles available
Vom Boden “The flavors are so clear and crystalline: like a bowl of really tart, fresh wonderful things, ripe lime and underripe peach and apricot and pear all right in front of your face. The flavors are all immediate and saturating, this part is very impressive and as much as I’m loathe to worship sites with storied pasts (as things are changing and we have to be honest here), it could be that this – the most famous site HaJo farms, the Eltviller Sonnenberg – really is just a site destined for this type of wine. Are some sites just kind of magical? For all this crystalline exoticism, the wine has definition and lots of curves and finesse. This is the sorta wine that makes me want to drink more Spätlese.”
JB Becker Riesling Berg Bildstock Auslese 2021 750ml $59 special, 6 bottles available
Vom Boden “Hans Josef says to me, “This is the Yquem of the Rheingau.” And, again, a few lights go off and I understand a little more what he is seeking, the context in which an Auslese like this should be seen. This is a lovely, lovely wine, honeyed yet soaring, with restraint and acidity… and yes, some plush ribbons of alcohol and texture.”

Staff Pick

Von Winning “Winnings” Riesling 2022 750ml $20.90 special, 12 bottles available
Exceptionally dry with citrus and saline up front and tropical notes of Starfruit and Guava swirling around the nose and palette. An assertive, yet playful concoction from the Pfalz region. A serious product for table wine prices.

Petrolo Boggina Combo Pack 2014 WAS $119 NOW $99 special, 3 cases available
A Case Of Three 750ml Bottles: 2 Bottles 2014 Boggina, 1 Bottle 2014 Boggina Anfora
2014 Petrolo Boggina:
Antonio Galloni 94 Points “The 2014 Bòggina is stunning. Although a touch compact in this vintage, the Bòggina impresses for its energy and overall freshness. Red cherry, raspberry, rose petal, tobacco and savory herbs are some of the many notes that continue to open up as the wine takes shape in the glass. It will be interesting to see if the 2014 puts on more weight with time in bottle. It certainly improved over the time I followed it.”
James Suckling 93 Points “Very fine and silky with a tight and polished texture that shows wonderful length and definition. Medium body, pretty cherry and citrus character and a long and subtle finish. Well done for a difficult vintage. Delicious now.”
2014 Petrolo Boggina Anfora:
Antonio Galloni 93 Points “It’s interesting to taste the 2014 Bòggina Anfora (Bògginanfora), Petrolo’s Sangiovese done in amphora next to the same wine aged in oak. The amphora wine is initially a bit softer and creamier in its contours, but it also offers less development in the glass. Lavender, plum, menthol, sage and sweet herbs lead into the expressive finish. This is another very pretty wine from Petrolo and proprietor Luca Sanjust.”

Close-out Sale – Price Reductions
Olivier Horiot Metisse Brut Nature NV 750ml WAS $66 NOW $59 special, 10 bottles available
VinopolNote VinopolNote: Approximately 80% Pinot Noir & 20% Pinot Blanc. 2016 & 2015 plus 20% reserve wine. Disgorged in January 2020.
Importer note “Each varietal is vinified separately and go thorough malolactic fermentation. Aged on its lees in oak barrels. Prior to secondary fermentation, a vintage base wine is blended with a solera of reserve wines.”
Salvioni Cerbaiola Brunello Di Montalcino 2017 750ml WAS $199 NOW $159 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 Points “The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola grows in intensity in the glass, with delicate aromas that are especially floral and light in character. Instead of blackberry or blackcurrant, this elegant wine delivers cassis and cranberry. Instead of overt spice, you get licorice, balsam herb and camphor ash. The Salvioni house style is ethereal and light, and although that extra vintage ripeness and concentration does register on the palate, farming and winemaking at this estate puts an emphasis on acidity over power or structure. These choices were particularly important in 2017.”
Salvioni Cerbaiola Rosso Di Montalcino 2018 750ml WAS $89 NOW $79 special, 23 bottles available
Vinous 93 Points “The 2018 Salvioni Rosso di Montalcino leads off with a zesty, fresh display of Sangiovese fruit, as a mix of cherry and strawberry is complemented by hints of sweet spice, leather and gorgeous exotic florals. On the palate, I’m finding a wonderfully pure expression, focused on ripe red fruits with energizing acids and subtle spice, as pretty inner rose develops toward the close. Hints of fine tannin and minerals mingle throughout the finish, and a staining of black cherry lingers on and on. What a beautiful, feminine, and truly enjoyable vintage for the Salvioni Rosso.”
San Leonardo Rosso Vigneti Delle Dolomiti 2015 WAS $69 NOW $59 special, 30 bottles available
Wine Advocate 97+ Points “The 2015 San Leonardo pours forth with a beautiful velvety appearance and sultry dark garnet color. This wine shows a lot of life and dark fruit purity with black plum, blackberry, cassis and tarry prune. There is a delightful note of black pepper that is specific to this warm and sunny vintage. The fruit shows softer and richer concentration compared to past vintages and more pulpy density that gives this edition a bigger profile in terms of mouthfeel. Production is 75,000 bottles. San Leonardo is a wine made for long aging, but the nice thing about this vintage is that the bouquet remains quite accessible at this young age. Nevertheless, I’d still suggest keeping this bottle in your cellar so that it can calmly finish its evolution.”
Ovum Rare Form For Love Nor Money 2020 750ml WAS $51.90 NOW $45 special, 18 bottles available
Winery Note “White gold in the glass, it’s aromas of ripe Bartlett pears and golden delicious apple are deceiving. Under the fresh fruit layer sits a brooding sea of herbs – lemon verbena, eucalyptus, sage. There’s even notes of bittering agents like wormwood and cassia bark, yet they’re not present on the palate. A lightning bolt of acidity strikes your palate upon first taste, and then begins the cascading flavors of salted lemon and white pineapple soaked in chamomile tea. The finish is dry, and layered with dried herbs as the wine warms in the glass. Biodynamic. 1970’s own rooted Riesling, grown at 400 feet on a South facing slope. The Ana vineyard has produced notoriously complex wines for decades. Nestled in the heart of the Dundee Hills, this site collects additional heat units that allow for even ripeness, while the volcanic soils help to maintain salty acidity.”
Pagliarese Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 750ml WAS $33 NOW $28 special, 15 bottles available
Vinous 93 Points “The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva is another gorgeous old-school wine from Pagliarese. Black cherry, cloves, licorice, leather and woodsmoke give the 2018 its distinctive, somber feel. This dense, super-expressive Riserva certainly has tons of character. Tasting the 2018 is like stepping back in time thirty years.”

Mourat Ovni Val De Loire Rose 2021 750ml WAS $19 NOW $16 special, 13 bottles available
100% Grolleau Gris
Musto Carmelitano Aglianico Vulture Maschitano 2017 750ml WAS $19 NOW $16 special, 36+ bottles available
Vinous 92+ Points “The 2017 Aglianico del Vulture Maschitano Rosso lifts from the glass with a rich and darkly alluring mix of crushed plums and blackberries complemented by nuances of lavender, violets and a dusting of exotic spice. While silky, almost creamy in feel, there’s a core of saline-minerals and bright acidity that adds riveting tension, as tart wild berries mix with a twang of sour citrus and wild herbal tones. This thrilling, young Aglianico finishes long and lightly structured, keeping the energy high with a sweet-and-sour tug of dark fruits and hints of blood orange that linger impossibly long. The 2017 Maschitano Rosso is the total package, yet it comes from the youngest vines of the estate and represents the most accessible of the Musto Carmelitano portfolio.”
Bodegas Muga Seleccion Especial Rioja 2018 750ml WAS $44 NOW $39 special, 79 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 Points “2018 was a cooler vintage, with a fairly long maturation, which made the wines somewhat fresher and less alcoholic, as showcased by the 2018 Selección Especial, a classical blend of the four red varieties from Rioja, Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano with contained ripeness (14.05% alcohol) and good freshness. It fermented in oak casks with indigenous yeasts and matured in French oak barrels, 40% of them new, for 26 months. They were not very happy with the vintage and had to sort and discard, but as they didn’t produce Prado Enea, Torre Muga or Haro, those grapes went into this wine. They are reluctant about 2018, but I think it was a vintage capable of the best and the worst, and this 2018 is floral, expressive and elegant. It’s medium to full- bodied, with very fine, chalky tannins, combining power and elegance. Amazing! 187,200 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2021.”

All Week Sale– ENDS TODAY

Known for its lively spark, that pop of acid and minerality that distinguishes Chablis from the rest of Burgundy. It’s lithe and racy, or as Jancis Robinson once said, it’s the “Little Black Dress” of white wine.

Buy 6-11 bottles for a 5% discount
Buy 12+ bottles for a 10% discount

La Chablisienne Chablis L’homme Mort 1er Cru 2019 750ml $34.50 special, 26 bottles available
Vinous 90+ Points “The 2020 Chablis L’Homme Mort 1er Cru is the most reductive on the nose amongst La Chablisienne’s Premier Crus, though it opens with just 5-10 minutes in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a lightly spiced entry, modest depth, a fine edgy acidity that lends frisson towards the finish with quite a persistent, peppery aftertaste. Meliorates with aeration. Give it a year in bottle. Drink: 2024-2034. (Sep 2022)”
Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vielles Vignes 2020 $39 special, 35 bottles available
Winery Note “This cuvée is sourced from vines the age of which is between 45 and 70 years. A wine of exceptional concentration for a village level appellation, this wine is always a true expression of the kimmeridgian soils that make Chablis so distinctive. Aged for thirty months before release, Defaix’s old vines Chablis is richly dense with a classic flinty bouquet and long mineral-infused finish.”
Jean-Paul And Benoit Droin Chablis 2021 750ml $34.50 special, 32 bottles available
Decanter “Droin owns 10ha of AP Chablis. Much more interest here with a deeper hue in the glass and much more interest on the nose. Some greengage on the palate, together with a hint of pear and white peach. Pretty much a benchmark example of what village Chablis should be. Concentration and a lengthy mineral character to finish.”
Fevre Chablis Les Clos 2018 750ml $179 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 Points “The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another obvious success, mingling aromas of citrus and citrus confit with hints of beeswax, peach and pear in an inviting bouquet. Full-bodied, muscular and layered, it’s textural and fleshy, with a deep and tightly wound core, racy acids and a chalky finish. This is a fine effort that will improve with bottle age, but it is a bit more front-loaded out of the gates than the very fine 2017 rendition.”
Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2020 750ml $189 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 Points “This white starts out rich, with an incisive attack, displaying flavors of white flowers, white peach, lemon and mineral. Builds to a long aftertaste, gaining precision from beginning to end. Drink now through 2030.”
Domaine Laroche Chablis Blanchots Grand Cru 2020 750ml $149 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Note “The favourite Grand Cru of Domaine Laroche, offering much finesse and charm. Les Blanchots is a unique terroir made of a layer of white clay on Kimmeridgian limestone with ammonites. This is the ideal combination to keep the right amount of water for roots. The South-East exposure allows slow ripening and favours aroma development. Blanchots is delicate, silky and shows its charm after 5 years in bottle. At peak after 10 to 12 years.”
Lucien Le Moine Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2017 750ml $179 special, 2 bottles available
No reviews for 2017, 2016 review for reference.
Vinous 92-95 points “Musky scents of citrus fruits, gardenia, white rose, anise, smoke, fresh herbs and earth. Very dry, rich and thick, but with a remarkably sappy, penetrating quality to its citrus and floral flavors. The extremely slow-building, edge-free finish stains the palate with licorice and menthol. Utterly distinctive grand cru Chablis–but then this bottling has been consistently stunning since its inaugural 2012 vintage.”
Vintage Wine Points Price Available Purchase
2018 Beru Chablis Clos Beru 750ml   $99.00 3 Link
2020 Beru Chablis Terroirs De Beru 750ml   $41.90 4 Link
2018 Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis La Foret 1er Cru 750ml Vinous 91 $49.00 1 Link
2021 Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis VV 750ml   $36.00 5 Link
2016 Samuel Billaud Chablis Montee Tonnerre 1er 750ml Vinous 92 $59.00 1 Link
2010 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Les Lys 750ml   $59.00 14 Link
2010 Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Vaillons 750ml   $59.00 18 Link
2017 William Fevre Chablis Beauroy 750ml Vinous 92 $59.00 2 Link
2019 William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 750ml WA 92+ $69.00 2 Link
2015 Domaine D’Henri Chablis Fourchaume Heritage 1er
  $54.50 3 Link
2017 Domaine D’henri Chablis L’homme Mort VV 1.5L   $99.00 2 Link
2017 Domaine D’henri Chablis L’homme Mort VV 750ml   $41.90 16 Link
2017 Domaine D’henri Chablis ‘Saint Pierre’ 1.5L   $59.00 1 Link
2020 Domaine Laroche Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 750ml WS 95 $189.00 3 Link
2018 Louis Michel Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 750ml   $99.00 1 Link
2021 Camille & Laurent Schaller Chablis Vau De Vey 750ml   $39.00 18 Link
2021 Camille Laurent Schaller Chablis Vaucoupin 1er 750ml   $39.00 23 Link
2019 Servin Chablis Bougros 2019 750ml Vinous 93 $66.00 8 Link
2020 Servin Chablis Montee De Tonnerre 750ml WA 93 $49.00 4 Link
2020 Servin Chablis Vaucoupin 1er Cru 750ml WA 89 $47.50 10 Link
2021 Domaine Vocoret Chablis Les Clos 750ml   $79.00 36+ Link
2021 Domaine Vocoret Chablis Mont Milieu 750ml   $41.90 13 Link
2021 Domaine Vocoret Chablis Montmains 750ml   $31.90 4 Link

Collector’s Corner
The Rhine Stuff: Keller, Molitor, and Von Winning

Keller Rieslaner Monsheimer Silberberg Riesling Beerenauslese Goldkapsel 2018 375ml $219 special, 6 half bottles available
Vinopolnote “Rieslaner is a cross of Riesling and Sylanver. Rieslaner was bred for its potential for excellent botrytis concentration, which makes it an ideal Beerenauslese, but is also a specialty of Keller, who produces this wine in several styles.”
Keller Silvaner Feuervogel Trocken 2021 750ml $119 special, 2 bottles available
Vom Boden “Named after Igor Stravinsky’s Ballet “The Firebird.” 70 year old vines on limestone matured in the traditional large wooden barrels. A strikingly savory and mineral Silvaner.”
Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese*** GK 2017 750ml $299 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 100 Points “As always, Molitor’s 2017 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is one of the ripest and most concentrated Auslesen of the vintage. Incredibly clear and intense notes of ripe peaches and mangoes on the nonetheless delicate and fresh nose intertwine with noble slate, fine oak and nougat aromas. The wine is round and elegant on the palate, with stunning vivacious, filigreed acidity that gives it lightness, great finesse, lots of salt and tension and stimulating grip. This is still a baby, but in terms of complexity and finesse, it’s one of the finest wines Markus Molitor has produced in 2017. I cannot remember having tasted a three-starred Auslese from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr that was so fresh, lean and filigreed. This 2017 Sonnenuhr is precise as a Swiss watch. Tasted at the domain in April 2019.”
Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenhuhr Beerenauslese * 2017 750ml $399 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 100 Points “The 2017 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese * (Golden Capsule) is intense, fine and flinty on the highly precise nose with crunchy slate and grapefruit notes. Dense and concentrated on the palate, it has sweet but elegant and highly refined fruit intertwined with salty-finessed slate salinity and delicate acidity. This is a beautifully balanced BA from Molitor’s most important grand cru vineyard. Many readers might prefer its sweet and charming richness to the delicate finesse and crystallinity of the Würzgarten BA, which will be ready to drink sooner. But this Zeltinger Sonnenuhr in turn will gain even more finesse and drinkability over the years. Tasted at the domain in April 2019.”
Molitor Zelt Sonnenuhr TBA GK 2019 750ml $499 special, 12 bottles available
Molitor Zelt Sonnenuhr TBA GK 2019 375ml $249 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate 97 Points “The 2019 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trockenbeerenauslese is deep, intense and flinty on the nose that exhibits clear, ripe and concentrated fruit with very fine botrytis notes intertwined with aromas of crushed slate and candied lemon rind. Round and elegant on the seamless palate, this is a rich yet finessed and elegant, super tensioned and mineral TBA with electrifying acidity and a highly stimulating finish. There are not many TBAs around that are as digestible as this one, which is really extraordinary. 6.5% alcohol. Tasted in May 2021 (AP 29 20).”

Von Winning Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2021 750ml $74.50 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93-95 Points “The 2021 Kieselberg Riesling trocken VDP. Grosse Lage comes from a plateau above Deidesheim with sandstone and limestone in the soil. Fermented spontaneously in 500-liter oak vats and still maturing in them, the barrel sample shows a clear, elegant and savory nose of bright and ripe fruit aromas intertwined with oaky and yeasty notes. Creamy textured and very elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, tight and saline-finishing Riesling with fine and grippy tannins and lingering salinity and mineral tension. It’s still very young but worthy to be cellared for at least a decade.”
Von Winning Langenmorgen Grosses Gewachs 2021 750ml $74.50 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93-94 Points “The 2021 Langenmorgen Riesling trocken VDP. Grosse Lage is grown in a cool area up by the forest on a light sandstone soil. It fermented spontaneously in 500-liter oak barrels, in which the wine is aging until today. The nose shows a brilliantly clear, fresh and flinty, very elegant GG with herbal and soil-driven, flinty-scented intensity and the coolish aromas of slow-ripening Riesling. Very elegant and refined on the palate, this is a round, lush and salty-savory Riesling classic that reveals a long, tight, saline and finely grippy finish. As per the vintage, this is a rather lean, straightforward but tensioned Riesling that will show its class in the years to come.
Von Winning Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewach  2021 750ml $74.50 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95-96 Points “The 2021 Kalkofen Riesling trocken VDP. Grosse Lage comes from the plateau above Deidesheim and owes its density and complexity to 65-year-old vines growing on sandstone and limestone. The must is fermented spontaneously in 500-liter oak barrels, and the wine is maturing on the lees. The brilliantly clear and radiant sample opens with a deep, intense and elegant, still oaky but complex and fruit-intense bouquet that gives rise to the highest hopes. Rich and intense but also fresh and elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, mineral and textured Kalkofen that obviously wants to be a Meursault or Montrachet yet with the weapons of Riesling and also Buntsandstein. Whatever it is, this is an excellent and promising Kalkofen whose development and capacity I’d love to follow for at least a decade. The wine is dense and tight but also fresh and juicy and provided with very fine tannins and sustainable mineral acidity.”
Von Winning Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewach 2021 750ml $74.50 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95-96 Points “Tasted as barrel sample in November of this year, von Winning’s 2021 Ungeheuer Riesling trocken VDP. Grosse Lage is deep, very fine and clear on the elegant and balanced saline nose that is nothing less than spectacular in its seamless and pure appearance. Round and lush on the palate, with a salty piquancy and a dense, still yeasty texture with very fine tannins, this is a generous and complex Riesling from the famous Forster Ungeheuer that has been appreciated from wine geeks such as Johann Wolfgang Goethe, Otto von Bismarck and Robert M. Parker Jr.”
Von Winning Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewach 2021 750ml $119 special, 6 bottles available
Importer’s Note: “The name of “Pechstein” stems from the black basalt rubble that is found there together with weathered red sandstone, sandy loam and friable clay. The extinct volcano, Pechsteinkopf, which is seen above the forest, distributed large quantities of volcanic rock over the area in ancient times. For this reason, the subsoil of the Pechstein also contains several basalt veins. The basalt rubble that contributes to easy warming of this site actually does not stem from the site’s subsoil, but rather from an old stone quarry just a couple hundred meters away. As was common in the 19th century, the basalt from the quarry was distributed in the vineyard and ploughed into the soil to improve it. The 17.1 hectare Pechstein is located at 120 to 150 meters a.s.l. and has a gentle 6 to 10 % slope gradient. The clay and loam in the Pechstein contribute to the excellent water storage capacity of the soil.”
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