Vinopolpick Monday Bonus 6-7-21

The wines of Faiveley, while always of superlative quality, historically were known for their potential in the cellar and not always for their immediate approachability. Concentrated, stern, and ageable were the most common descriptors in reviews. It took the new generation, a team of siblings, Erwan and Eve Faiveley, to push the winery into modernity and thus introducing wines that were softer and more approachable in their youth, while still offering the potential to age with grace.

Even small changes to the style of a domaine that dates back to 1825 is considered revolutionary in Burgundy, and there were a number of people who were afraid that the transition would ruin one of the anchors of the region. Fortunately, when the first wines of the new generation started appearing in 2007 the results were reassuringly delicious, and the changes not nearly as drastic as some had feared. The whites were still simultaneously silky and muscular, the reds still exceptionally pure and elegant. And all the while many of the wines were showing heightened aromatics and a softer feel on the palate. Village level wines were easy to enjoy immediately, and even most Premier Cru wines were showing themselves well after a brief introduction of air.

While the generational shift is still playing out before our eyes, the wines of Faiveley are still true to their roots. And 2017, one of the finest of the century, is the perfect vintage to discover for yourself why these are always considered among the region’s finest.

Arriving Friday, June 11th:

Domaine Faiveley Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91-94 points “(from a huge 3.96 ha parcel). Here the wood regimen is no longer subtle though it stops short of masking the beautifully layered aromas of plum, spice, dark currant and freshly turned earth. The highly energetic and delineated middle weight plus flavors exude noticeable minerality on the powerful and focused finish that displays outstanding depth and persistence. Moreover, the finish really fans out as it sits on the palate. 2029+.”

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Only 6 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 89-92 points “Pale, slightly green-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of lemon zest, lemon drop and lavender. Very rich and concentrated, with ripe stone fruit and lemon drop flavors complicated by savory minerality. Tactile, spicy and light on its feet, but not as silky or deep as some of the other cru bottlings at this address. Finishes with a hint of raw pineapple and a menthol edge. Faiveley doesn’t own this plot but does all the work in the vines; still, the yield here was in the range of 50 to 52 hectoliters per hectare, vs. around 40 in most of the estate holdings in 2017.”

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Only 6 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley Aux Chaignots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($99.95) $89 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 90-92 points “Exotic aromas of smoked duck, dark wild berries, baking chocolate and spices introduces the 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Chaignots, a medium to full-bodied wine with tangy acids, satiny structuring tannins and a deep core of sapid, pungently spicy fruit. It’s a definite success.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 90-92 points “The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Chaignots 1er Cru has a more cohesive, deeper bouquet than the Les Damodes, a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and chalk. The elegant palate is well balanced with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity and a touch of orange sorbet enlivening the finish. Excellent.”

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Only 6 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley Les Damodes, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Burghound 90-92 points “Moderate reduction and wood dominate the nose today. Much more interesting are the highly energetic and more mineral-driven flavors that possess a beguiling inner mouth perfume before concluding in a saline and mildly austere finish that is shaped by admirably fine-grained tannins. This is not particularly dense but it is really pretty and should age well on its balance. 2027+.”

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Only 6 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley Les Porêts-Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
No reviews for the 2017 vintage. 2015 review provided for reference.
Wine Spectator 93 points “Dark tones of black currant, blackberry and violet mark this broad, muscular red, which is burly on the compact finish, with an earthy aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2037.”

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This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Only 6 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley Les Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($169.95) $149 pre-arrival special
Tim Atkin MW – Decanter 95 points “This is a négociant cuvée of Les St-Georges, although it includes around one-third of the Faiveleys’ own fruit. It’s fresh, balanced and will be ready to drink comparatively young – not always the case with this premier cru. It displays appealing freshness in a medium body, with scented wood, 40% new, and a bright, focussed aftertaste. Drink: 2024-2029. (Nov 2018)”


Only 5 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley La Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Pale bright yellow. Captivating nose combines lemon drop, underripe pineapple, dusty stone, white pepper, flowers and mint. Tightly wound and extremely backward, more salty than sweet. Quite minerally and precise owing to its cool, high site. This crisp, intense wine finishes very long and alive, with pungent crushed stone. Almost 2014-like in its coolness, density and savory minerality.”

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Only 6 bottles available!
Domaine Faiveley Les Referts, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “Pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. Reticent but pure fruit-dominated aromas of peach and underripe pineapple. Smooth on entry, then salty and dense but light on its feet, showing the focus of a Puligny more than the comparatively easygoing fruit of Meursault. Nicely concentrated but not a bit heavy. This saline, uncompromisingly dry wine shows little in the way of easy sweetness, finishing with a resounding pineapple note and serious grip.”

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Highlights, in Stock Now:

Domaine Faiveley Corton ‘Clos des Cortons Faiveley’ Monopole Grand Cru, Côte de Beaune 2016 750ML ($249.95) $219 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Stephen Tanzer 95-98 points “Bright ruby. Fruit-driven aromas of crushed black cherry and dark raspberry convey outstanding pungent lift. Incredibly concentrated, sappy and primary, conveying outstanding juicy purity and compelling thickness to its dark fruit and violet flavors. At once hugely powerful and utterly seamless, this wine finishes with great spicy length and lift. A real essence of Burgundy–and likely to evolve gracefully for 25 years or more.”


Domaine Faiveley Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 29 bottles in stock now
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 94 points “From bottle, Faiveley’s 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is showing very well indeed, unwinding in the glass with aromas of blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate, grilled game, bergamot and warm spices. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, textural but full of energy, with a gourmand core of succulent, sapid fruit that cloaks its rich, satiny tannins, concluding with a long, subtly carnal finish. Surpassing my recollection of it from barrel, this is an unequivocally superb Cazetiers.”


Domaine Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Côte de Nuits 2016 750ML ($319.95) $259 special, 9 bottles in stock now
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 95 points “From bottle, the 2016 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing superbly, wafting from the glass with a wild and complex bouquet of blackberries, cassis, grilled game, currant leaf and candied peel. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, its satiny tannins beautifully cloaked in a succulent core that marries pristinely ripe fruit with alluring hints of the savory and the carnal, concluding with a long and expansive finish. Finer boned than the more gourmand 2015 rendition, this is an incredibly classy effort that will offer a broad drinking window.”


Domaine Faiveley Les Porêts-Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2013 750ML ($119.95) $79 special, 16 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 91 points “Pretty dark fruits such as blackberry and blueberry with hints of spice. Full body, tight center palate, and fine tannins. Better in a year or two, but very delicate, firm and delicious.”

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Domaine Faiveley Volnay-Santenots, Volnay Premier Cru 2013 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 1 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “Pure blackberry, cherry and violet flavors are the hallmarks of this enticing red. Black pepper and mineral notes chime in, matched to a velvety texture. A chalky sensation lines the lingering finish. Best from 2019 through 2032. 38 cases imported. “

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Love red Burgundy? We have over 200 different options from the Côte de Nuits and over 90 different options from the Côte de Beaune in stock. Shop the entire selection on our web store now, including famous names like Fourrier and Roumier, as well as much more from Faiveley.

Thibaud Boudignon is a breakout star of Loire Valley.  The Savennières-based producer has rare gift of taking all of Chenin’s energetic richness and compressing it into a linear beam of mineral electricity. He’s captured the attention and love of several reviewers and wine writers, so we’ll hand the mike off for now: 

“One of the most exciting up-and-coming producers in the Loire, Thibaud Boudignon already has a fervent following in America. A Bordeaux native and former judo champion, Boudignon began making his own wine in 2009 and now has seven hectares, farmed biodynamically, in Anjou and Savennières.” –Jason Wilson – Vinous Media

“Thibaud Boudignon is a recent entry to Savennières, having started his project in 2009, but oh, my, the purity of his wines is impeccable. The three Savennières – La Vigne Cendrée, Clos de Frémine and Clos de la Hutte – have their own personalities. The transparency and harnessed power of these wines offer a contrast to the bigger, bolder Savennières styles. It may only be a young domaine, but the clarity of the wines made from these young vines is truly exciting. I look forward to the vines maturing further.” –Rebecca Gibb MW

“Thibaud Boudignon is unquestionably one of the most exciting figures in wine today. Originally from Bordeaux, he honed his winemaking craft while working at Philipe Charlopin in Gevrey-Chambertin during the early 2000s. He was shortly thereafter hired by Savennières producer Château Souchérie to be their winemaker in the late 2000s. His first and most important contribution to the estate was the introduction of strict organic practices in the vineyards which, along with his immense winemaking skills, elevated this already historic domaine to new heights. It was in 2009 that he began to make wine under his own name from a scant 3.5 ha in the heart of Anjou and Savennières. Knowing that the quality of his fruit was of most importance, he committed himself absolutely to the health of his vines, choosing to farm organically and spend the majority of his time in the vineyards. His devotion paid off quickly, for in just a few vintages, his name began to circulate among Loire growers, eventually to top restaurants in Paris, and finally overseas. The speed at which he has garnered so much praise speaks to the remarkable quality of his wines. It is wines like these that make us remember why we love this business. Just when you think you’ve had the best a region has to offer, a new discovery comes along to rock your world. Boudignon is such a discovery, with wines that speak so clearly of their place of origin. It is in this writer’s humble opinion, that there is no greater dry Chenin Blanc being made in the world today. Period.” –Skurnik Imports

Just Arrived:

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc, Loire 2019 750ML ($47.95) $44 special, 29 bottles in stock now
Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc, Loire 2019 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special, 6 magnums in stock now
No reviews for the 2019 vintage. 2018 review provided for reference.
Jason Wilson – Vinous 92 points “Quiet, elegant nose of beeswax, ripe pear and smoke. Rambunctious, lively and textured in the mouth, bursting with grilled lemon and green apple plus notes of salt and smoke, all underpinned by smooth stoniness. A cool, youthful wine that is full of energy.”
Importer note “With a tight core of saline terroir enveloped within ripe medium bodied fruit, this chenin blanc delivers a focused example of Thibaud’s style of ripe fruit matched with elegance and precision.”

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Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc ‘a Francoise…’ Loire 2019 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Cut like a diamond with clean lines and explosive fruit. Long detailed finish that fans out with a touch of creaminess. Still evolving and will reward the one who has patience. A worthy homage to his mother and grandfather.”
Importer note “Made from his finest plots in Anjou. The wine is named after his late mother, who tragically passed away from cancer when Thibaud was 17 years old. He makes this wine in her honor, without any compromise. If he feels the wine does not live up to his mother’s name, he won’t make it.”

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Thibaud Boudignon Savennières Clos de Frémine, Loire 2019 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 1 bottle in stock now
Rebecca Gibb MW – Vinous 95 points “An elegant and pure style that offers a delightful silken texture. The 2019 Clos de Frémine floats delicately, almost as if you are tasting a cloud, despite containing plenty of intensity in its focused core of fruit. There’s a burst of fresh acidity and a bristle of fine-grained texture; whether that’s the tannin or the soil, it’s there on the finish. I could tell you it tastes of apples and citrus, but this is a wine that seems to care less about fruit descriptors and more about the essence of its place.”
Importer note “Just across a small road from Clos de la Hutte, in the hamlet of Poissonnière, Clos Frémine is an exciting addition to Thibaud’s stunning Savennières lineup. Just like it’s famed neighbor, the vineyard sits on pure schist that is found only 20cm below the surface. There is a bit more sand at the base of this site, which provides the wine with a delicate lift and added layer of elegance.”

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Thibaud Boudignon Rosé de Loire 2020 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Importer note “While Thibaud has (rightly) become a superstar for his world-class Chenin Blancs, many insiders have discovered one of his best kept-secrets: rosé. Made from a plot of Cabernet Franc and Grolleau in Anjou that he simply could not pass up the opportunity to work with, this is one of the most saline and mineral rosés we have ever come across. 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Grolleau. Shallow soils of grey schist and rhyolite (volcanic soil) and clay. Indigenous yeast fermentation. No malo. Direct press rosé. Aged in stainless steel. A noble, supremely saline rosé. Delicate texture. Made like a white wine to preserve salinity and structure.”

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Also in Stock Now:

Thibaud Boudignon Savennières La Vigne Cendrée, Loire 2018 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 1 bottle in stock now
Importer note “La Vigne Cendrée is the smallest parcel of the domaine, 0.5 hectares, in the commune of Savennières. In spite of its small surface area there is an exceptional mosaic of terroir : purple schist, granite and clay silt. Because of the clay and the southern exposition, this wine is naturally richer.  Half is aged in 226 liter burgundy barrels and half in foudre, with no new wood, for 12 months, this wine is very ‘burgundian.’ La Vigne Cendrée offers a combination of generosity and mineral tension under a noble reduction.”


Thibaud Boudignon Savennières Clos de la Hutte, Loire 2018 750ML ($119.95) $95 special, 18 bottles in stock now
No reviews available for the 2018 vintage. 2019 review provided for reference.
Rebecca Gibb MW – Vinous 97 points “The 2019 Clos de la Hutte is the site that spoke to Boudignon when he arrived in Savennières. Once the site of a monastery, it’s not yet a religious experience drinking this, but it’s not got far to go: there’s a sense of expansion in the mouth, followed by impressive structure, showing its serious intentions and a sense that it’s good enough to eat. There’s an intriguing white floral note alongside pear, followed up with energetic acidity. Excellent texture and sapidity on the finish, providing length and structure. This wine has it all: delicacy and power, structure and refinement. Unfortunately, frosts in 2019 were not kind so there is very little of it to go around.”
Importer note “[A new] addition to Thibaud’s range of Chenin Blanc comes from a half hectare plot within the Clos de la Hutte (1.5ha) lieu-dit. The vines are young but the wine is profound.  There is a long history to this site and Thibaud is channeling every bit of it here.  The volumes are miniscule –  1000 bottles released. Clos de la Hutte is situated in the commune of La Poissonnière; the Clos de la Hutte is an ancient religious site of 7 hectares, of which 2.6 are planted with vines. At the heart of this ancient monastery are vines produced from a massal selection of Chenin Blanc coming from the best domaines of the Loire. 5 different varieties of Chenin were planted together so as to best express the intensity and singularity of this special place. 50% vinified in oval demi muid, 25% in 320 liter cigars, and 25% in 500 liter. The ageing last one year in wood and a minimum of 3 months in stainless steel. The Clos de la Hutte seduces with its aromatic finesse and the intense minerality in the mouth.”
 

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