Saul:
Like many wine lovers, I adore Kermit Lynch’s classic, Adventures on the Wine Route. It’s responsible for my interest in a lot of wine regions, but none more so than Chinon. Lynch’s description of the magnetic Charles Joguet captivated me and is certainly part of the reason I love the wines of the Loire. The dirty secret, though, was that for a period of time in the late 1990s/very early 2000s, the wines from Joguet weren’t particularly great. Charles had retired and the new winemaking team wasn’t quite up to his exacting standards.

Thankfully, Kevin Fontaine, the current winemaker, is a talented individual who has fully restored Charles Joguet to the very top tier of producers in Chinon—recent releases have made me a believer again. The wines have more polish than in the past, but they do so without sacrificing the character of the place or the ageability of the wines. He’s really doing justice to one of the best collections of vineyards in the Loire—and this being Chinon, prices are still reasonable.

On the lower end of their lineup, I really enjoy the Petites Roches bottling. It’s a perfect bistro Cabernet Franc, showing off the elegance and charm of gravelly terroirs in Chinon. This is a step up from their entry-level bottling (the Cuvée Terroir, which is a bit more fruit-driven) that we’re able to offer for entry level pricing (less than $25/btl). Whether I’m looking for a wine to drink with a roast chicken, steak, or kale and bean soup, this is always a perfect weeknight warrior.


In Stock Now:

Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches, Loire 2018 750ML ($31.95) $24 special
Vinous 91 points “This deep ruby red comes from 35-year-old clay and chalky soils. The 2018 vintage is more lively than the 2017. On the palate aromas of violet and blackberry, fresh berry and black pepper come alive. Thrilling acidity dances throughout.”
Kermit Lynch note “A young, peppery nose with tart red currant aromas that practically jump out of the glass. On the palate, the fruit follows through to a spicy, astonishingly lengthy finish. A satisfying match for charcuterie or creamy fresh goat cheese, which complement the refreshing acidity.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée Terroir, Loire 2018 750ML ($31.95) $24 special
Kermit Lynch note “Cuvée Terroir is born of a parcel of vines just west of Chinon known for its mysteriously Mediterranean vegetation. Fragrant pines replace the emblematic plane trees that typically line the river Vienne, and tiny wildflowers called silènes pop up in the sandy soil amid the vines, a colorful symbol of the area’s extraordinary biodiversity. Domaine Joguet lets the terroir speak for itself, aging the wine in stainless steel to respect its supple, delicate freshness. They call it their “vin des copains”: the wine you want to open with friends, and frequently.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos, Loire 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Very pure, featuring beautiful acidity that imparts freshness and energy, with cherry pit and red currant fruit notes gliding along. Medium tannins provide structure and support. The finish is long and expressive. Best from 2021 through 2029. 170 cases imported. — AZ”
Vinous 93 points “From one Charles Joguet’s prime sites at the foot of a gravelly terrace, from 40 to 50 year old vines in siliceous chalk and clay soil. Aged 12 months in barrel, then in stainless steel for 10 months. Cherry, pepper, and herb on the nose. Rich and plush in the mouth with big gravelly tannins. Balanced by cool, fresh dark fruit and a thrilling finish of spice and graphite. Great value.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Domaine Charles Joguet Chinon Les Petites Roches, Loire 2016 1.5L ($59.95) $49 special, 3 magnums in stock now
Kermit Lynch note “When Charles Joguet took over the family vineyards in 1957, he set out to do something that was unheard of in the Loire Valley. Rather than blending all the fruit from his varied parcels, he opted for a more Burgundian approach and began vinifying each individually, highlighting Chinon’s diversity of soils and exposures and playing with the nuances of vine age to propose a gamut of different wines of unique character. It is in this spirit that the domaine’s current vigneron, Kevin Fontaine, crafts the cuvée Les Petites Roches, named for the estate’s gravelly terroirs. Given light treatment in the cellar, this wine shows off Cabernet in its most delicate, charming form, rife with aromas of roses, damp earth, and little red berries, along with a gentle tannin holding it all together. This classic representation of Cabernet Franc from Chinon can be enjoyed over the next five or so years with roast chicken, pork chops, or game.”

This is the only magnum listing in the USA today!

Parusso: Iconoclastic Barolo Icon

Elvio Cogno was instrumental in putting the Ravera cru on the map. Born and raised in Novello, the village associated with the famous vineyard, he left his partnership with Marcarini in his sixties to start his namesake winery in 1990.  He purchased Cascina Nuova, an underperforming but historic estate, and started making classically-styled wines under his own name from the Ravera cru.

The resulting wines have been stupendous ever since, prompting a rush on land in Novello (and Ravera in particular), but no wineries have surpassed the original master and his son-in-law (winemaker since ’96 Valter Fissore—who is arguably even more talented than Elvio).  From their entry level “Cascina Nuova” Barolo up to his Riservas from the choicest parts of his holdings, these are wines that will appeal to every lover of Barolo.

Italian specialists Antonio Galloni of Vinous, Monica Larner of Wine Advocate, and Kerin O’Keefe of Wine Enthusiast all agree: this is a classical estate that over delivers. Year in, year out, these reviewers offer consistently high praise for the wines across multiple vintages and price levels.  We just brought in a small tranche of these stellar wines, though as with the last round, supply is limited.

In Stock Now:

Elvio Cogno Bricco Pernice Barolo 2015 750ML ($149.95) $119 special
Case-6 Elvio Cogno Bricco Pernice Barolo 2015 750ML ($719.95) $619 special (that’s only $103.17/bottle!)
Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Cellar Selection. Enticing scents of rose, iris, perfumed berry and an earthy whiff of truffle shape the fragrant nose on this dazzling wine. The delicious, full-bodied palate boasts structure and a weightless elegance, delivering juicy Marasca cherry, cherry compote, cinnamon and star anise. Taut polished tannins and fresh acidity provide balance and an elegant structure. It’s already irresistible but will also age well for years. Drink 2022–2035.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “The Elvio Cogno 2015 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice delivers the depth, richness and concentration that are a hallmark of this pretty vintage. This wine is a pure expression of the productive Lampia clone of Nebbiolo. Generous layers of blackberry, wild cherry, rose hip, ferrous earth and campfire ash are neatly folded together to build the wine’s intensity. Like the other wines from this estate, the tannic management is spot-on. You are aware of the wine’s youthful structure, but it is delivered without hard edges or sharp points. A mere 4,000 bottles were produced.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2015 Barolo Bricco Pernice is an exotic, beguiling wine. Blood orange, mint, sweet red cherry, star anise and a range of spice notes give the Bricco Pernice striking aromatic and flavor complexity. Medium in body, refined and super-expressive, the 2015 has so much to offer. Best of all, it will drink well with just a few years in bottle. It is such an effortless, gracious wine. Very polished, nuanced and elegant, this silky Barolo has a ton of structure but is also impeccable in its balance.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Aromas of camphor and sweet pipe tobacco give way to cherry, tar and wild scrub flavors in this densely structured red, which is elegant and sinewy, with a lingering, chewy finish. Best from 2023 through 2045.”

Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Barolo 2016 750ML ($69.95) $54.50 special
Case-6 Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Barolo 2016 750ML ($419.95) $299 special (that’s only $49.83/bottle —the lowest listed price in the country!)
Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Rose, woodland berry and baking spice shape the nose along with crushed mint notes on this fragrant red. The savory, polished palate boasts succulent raspberry, ripe strawberry and white pepper before taut tannins and bright acidity reveal a firm, elegant structure. Star anise lingers on the finish. Drink 2023–2036.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “Of the four Elvio Cogno Baroli out on the market now, this wine is the most immediate and accessible of the bunch. Production is an ample 20,000 bottles. The 2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova is a terrific wine with impeccable balance. The bouquet offers dark fruit aromas, licorice, smoke, tar and spice. These aromatic pieces slide together with precision to create an intriguing and multifaceted puzzle. It shows good fruit weight and concentration, reinforced by firm tannins, freshness and a silky mouthfeel. This is a terrific go-to Barolo from a classic vintage. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then ages for two years in botte grande made with Slavonian oak. “
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Cogno’s 2016 Barolo Cascina Nuova is absolutely gorgeous. Pliant and expressive on the palate, the 2016 has a touch more mid-palate sweetness and texture than in the past, when the wine has been more nervous in feel. Sweet red cherry, blood orange, mint, wild flowers, cedar, sweet tobacco and anise all open up effortlessly. Silky tannins add to its considerable immediacy and appeal. This is such a pretty wine in its peer group and also a terrific example of how attractive more modestly priced Barolos are in 2016.”

Elvio Cogno Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli 2019 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
Case-6 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli 2016 750ML ($179.95) $149 special (that’s only $24.83/bottle —the lowest listed price in the country!)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 92+ points “This is a terrific Piedmont red to pair with a classic quiche Lorraine. The Elvio Cogno 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is a delicate and fragile expression with bright accents of chopped mint and medicinal herb that hover over a core of wild cherry and dried raspberry. The wine delivers soft and smooth aromas that define the character of this pretty wine. Dusty tannins and some lingering mineral notes frame a polished finish. A portion of the wine sees whole-cluster fermentation, and winemaking is straightforward in stainless steel. Some 10,000 bottles were released.”