December 2014
While Nuits-Saint-Georges does not officially have any grand cru vineyards, we are convinced that Chevillon is producing wines from the area that are firmly grand cru quality. The Chevillons have been part of the winemaking history of Nuit St Georges since Symphorien Chevillon began producing in the early 1900s. Several generations of Chevillons worked to build their vineyards, with Robert at the helm until 2003, when he passed the winemaking to his sons Denis and Bertrand. Their land consists of roughly 13 ha in Nuits, mostly Premier Cru, from which they produce a wide selection of single vineyard bottlings each year. The wines are all made in exactly the same way – only the quantity of new oak may vary between villages and 1er Crus. The domaine sticks with 30% new wood for the 1er Crus, the villages normally being brought-up in something closer to 20% new wood, the remainder a blend of 2-3 year-old barrels. There are no tricks at Chevillon: the reliance is on old vines and old fashioned winemaking, an integral part of their process is to let a vine produce for as long as it can, replacing vines individually as they age. Domaine Robert Chevillon produce yardstick Nuits-St.-Georges with care and devotion. Famous for the transparency and consistency of their winemaking–Chevillon finds a way to let the vintage and the terroir speak for itself every year.
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Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Bousselots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($119.95) $88 special
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 90-92 points “Good bright, dark red. Deep aromas of black raspberry, minerals, smoke and flowers, along with notes of licorice and dark chocolate; ripe and sexy. A step up in density and finesse of texture from the Chaignots, offering good acid spine to its wild dark fruit flavors. Quite dry and uncompromising today, finishing bright and long, with serious tannins and a juicy character. A very good showing.”
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Cailles, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($179.95) $149 special
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 93-95 points “Bright, deep red. Pungent crushed-stone minerality accents musky black cherry and red berries on the almost liqueur-like nose. Juicy, supple and energetic on the palate, communicating a sappy, youthfully imploded character and a magically light touch for such a rich wine. The tactile, slowly building finish saturates the mouth with red fruits and crushed stone. Great potential here.”
Domaine Robert Chevillon Aux Chaignots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($119.95) $99 special
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 90-92 points “The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Chaignots is one of the more supple wines in this range. As such, it won’t demand as much cellar time as many of the other Chevillon 2012s. Gently spiced notes open up in the glass, followed by sweet red berries, flowers and cinnamon. The 2012 is soft and understated, with lovely overall balance and tons of medium-term appeal. This is another gracious, totally inviting wine from Chevillon.” AG
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($199.95) $179 special SOLD OUT
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 93-96 points “Bright, deep red. Explosive aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, espresso, mocha, licorice, minerals and sweet oak. Sappy, dense and fine-grained, with its substantial volume leavened by licorice and violet accents. The saline, classically dry, slowly mounting finish features a whiplash of fruits and minerals that leaves the taste buds quivering. Wonderfully tactile and floral on the aftertaste. This has grand cru energy and class.” ST
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Perrieres, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($149.95) $119 special SOLD OUT
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 92-94 points “Chevillon’s 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Perrieres is striking. Iron, smoke, dark red fruit and menthol blossom in the glass as the wine fills out beautifully. The 2012 is wonderuflly complete, with great balance of fruit and structure. Readers will have to be patient with the 2012, but it is fabulous.” AG
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Pruliers, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($149.95) $119 special SOLD OUT
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 91-94 points “Good bright, dark red. Discreet, pure, rather reticent nose offers red cherry and raspberry. Juicy, minerally and a bit youthfully imploded, offering terrific density and lift to the flavors of raspberry, strawberry and minerals. Lifted by a distinctly floral character I did not find in the last couple of samples. Solid and densely packed but juicy and light on its feet, finishing with serious but fine tannins and a saline touch. A superb showing today.” ST
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Roncieres, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($149.95) $119 special SOLD OUT
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 92-94 points “The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Roncières is mesmerizing upon the first impression. Deep, rich, beautifully resonant layers of dark red/black fruit, smoke, cloves and new leather blossom in the glass. The Roncières is incredibly sumptuous for a young Nuits, but even so, there is plenty of detail in the glass. Most importantly, though, the 2012 also appears to be holding quite a bit in reserve, suggesting its best days are off somewhere in the future.” AG
Domaine Robert Chevillon Les Vaucrains, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2012 ($179.95) $149 special SOLD OUT
Antonio Galloni 94-96 points “The 2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains is the most refined of these 2012s from Chevillon. There is no shortage of intensity in the glass, but here the tannins have just a little more silkiness than some of the other wines, while the flavors are generally a touch brighter and more lifted. Sweet red berries, mint, spices and freshly cut flowers inform the dazzling, virtually seamless finish. Simply put, the Vaucrains is superb in 2012.” AG
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