Category Archives: Special Features

Tenuta delle Terre Nere

An Icon of Mt. Etna

” ‘The Etna is the Burgundy of the Mediterranean,’

says the man whose career as an importer of fine Italian wines is legendary…”

“I love the way Marc De Grazia refers to the Sicilian volcano with a definite article in front of its name. To him, it is “the Etna,” and he expresses his deference to the dangerous mountain with every mention.”

 

–Monica Larner of The Wine Advocate writing about Marc de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere

 

Mt. Etna is an active volcano (stratovolcano to be specific) on the eastern edge of the island of Sicily, in southern Italy. There’s a long history of viticulture on the slopes of Etna (like, way back with the ancient Greeks, long history), but it hasn’t been until much more recently that the region has commanded much respect for its wines. Lucky us.

 

  • Etna become Sicily’s first DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) on August 11, 1968.
  • It took until the late 1980s for pioneering producers like Benanti to begin bottling real wines of distinction from Mt. Etna sites. Benanti introduced high-end, single-varietal wines, from native grapes like Nerello Mascalese and Carricante.
  • These varieties are often likened to the Pinot noir and Chardonnay of Burgundy, but with their own distinct character, and with the unique imprint of the vineyards of Mt. Etna.
  • A codified system of “Contrade” defines historic vineyard sub-districts or crus.
  • Tenuta delle Terre Nere, since its founding in 2002, has embraced both the Burgundian Cru model, chasing expression of terroir in vineyard designations, and a Burgundian winemaking aesthetic, favoring elegant and sumptuous wines over wines of power and impact.

Here and Vinopolis, we have championed the wines of Terre Nere for many years now, and are thrilled to share that we have an ample offering of the most recently released vintages. Please read on to learn more about each of our many different Terre Nere offerings

Currently Available Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Wines:

ROSSO 

Calderara Sottana  2021 $81.90

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 600-700m. Randazzo. Stoniest soils, pumice & basalt
  • 96 POINTS – DECANTER “Another of Terre Nere’s ‘Grande Terroir Ellittico’ wines, Calderara Sottana is from stonier, rockier volcanic soil than even San Lorenzo to the west. Vinified and aged in the same way – as are all of Marco De Grazia’s contrada reds – it offers a deep, full aroma of pure red and black fruits with some violet, spice, balsam and cocoa overtones. Fleshy, succulent and sapid, this is an incredibly beautiful Nerello Mascalese, with purity of red fruits underlined by some spice and stoniness, a hint of salinity and a long, silky, creamy finish. So inviting. (JB)” 

Calderara Sottana 2024 – $76

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 600-700m. Randazzo. Stoniest soils, pumice & basalt
  • 97 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana shows a blue-fruit character that I do not find in the other wines. More autumnal in personality, it is born dark, with deep fruit, dusty spice and additional complexity. This wine is remarkably self-controlled, playing on depth and length rather than textural impact. Its spice is especially pronounced on the palate, and the precision of the vineyard’s identity resonates throughout time.”

Dagala of Bocca d’Orzo 2024 – $149

  • Nerelo Mascalese 100%
  • An “Island” within a lava flow – a real “Monopole”, just .5ha, Elliptic Soil (oldest in which to plant)
  • North side. Randazzo. Three barriques of superlative wine
  • 98 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “From a half-hectare monopole adjacent to San Lorenzo, the Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso Dagala di Bocca d’Orzo is a 1,500-bottle release, compared to just 900 bottles in 2023. Marco de Grazia discovered the tiny vineyard and its little house while planting in San Lorenzo, purchasing the parcel in 2018 and producing the first vintage in 2019. The Sicilian word “dagala” describes an island of land surrounded by lava. This has a darker and more emphatically volcanic character, combining the unrelenting rigor of Calderara with the richness of San Lorenzo. Austere and tight, it recalls a dark lava-stone wall. The wine plays on depth, tension and volcanic power, holding firm without letting go.”

Feudo di Mezzo “Quadro delle Rose” 2024 – $59

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 600m, Castiglione di Sicilia, specific parcels
  • 95 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso Feudo di Mezzo Il Quadro Delle Rose comes from a distinctive old-vine parcel within Feudo di Mezzo, Etna’s largest contrada. The name refers to a traditional cadastral division of approximately 6,000 square meters. Once divided between two families, this became one of the largest contiguous holdings on Etna. The vineyard, dotted with peach, quince and prickly pear, is planted to vines now approximately 65 years old. Fruit from vines younger than 50 is excluded from this bottling. It is also among the estate’s first parcels harvested, generally around October 4 to 6. The 2024 has a darker cast to its fruit and a heavier center of gravity. “This pisses me off,” Marco de Grazia jokes. Immediately after being racked off the skins, the wine was almost complete. There is a frustrating effortlessness to it. Chalky tannins and ample fruit convey the exuberant character of the vintage, yet the wine remains composed. Il Quadro delle Rose also has a proven ability to age beautifully.”

Guardiola 2024 – $79

  • The first Tenuta delle Terre Nere wine
  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, highest altitude 900-1000m, Castiglione di Sicilia, 1ha vineyard
  • 97+ POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The 2024 is gorgeous, initially showing richness, sensuality and softer, fuller tannins. The fruit folds over the structure, making the wine feel complete. However, when I returned to it at the end of the tasting, its relative leanness became clearer. It does not have the same richness or weight as the wines poured later in the portfolio. Guardiola remains the “leanest and meanest” of the group, shaped by its cool climate, high elevation and exposed terraces.”

Moganazzi 2024 – $66

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 700-750m, Castiglione di Sicilia, 1.5ha vineyard
  • 95 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso Moganazzi comes from a north-slope vineyard at approximately 750 meters in Castiglione di Sicilia, managed by the estate since 2009. This is a powerhouse, with a broader, bigger mouthfeel and greater fruit weight, yet it remains elegant and beautifully composed. Dark rose, wild plum and sensual dark fruit shape the bouquet, while the palate shows notable power and a more pronounced tannic side.”

Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera “La Vigna di Don Peppino” 2022 – $165

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, Randazzo. .8ha, 140 y.o. vines, ungrafted. Elliptic soil.
  • 96 POINTS ERIC GUIDO-VINOUS “Darkly alluring and youthfully backward, the 2022 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana smolders up with a blend of sweet spices, dusty violets and ash, giving way to dried black cherries, sage and cloves. This is velvety yet finessed, with a polished wave of ripe red and blue fruit that flows across a juicy stream of acidity. Hints of sour citrus add contrast toward the close. It finishes remarkably fresh and energetic, still tannic but lively, as crunchy tannins resonate and an air of lavender slowly fades. This is an elegant and genuinely harmonious edition of this cuvée. Simply stunning.”

Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera “La Vigna di Don Peppino 2023 – $159

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, Randazzo. .8ha, 140 y.o. vines, ungrafted. Elliptic soil.
  • 97 POINTS ERIC GUIDO-VINOUS “The 2023 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana opens like a flower shop on the nose, intensely layered with depths of black cherry and spice. This is more lifted and graceful than expected, with a sour citrus tinge, tart wild berry fruits and mineral tones. Edgy tannins pinch at the cheeks as the 2023 resonates with blue and purple inner florals and a bitter licorice concentration that lingers impossibly long.”

 Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera “La Vigna di Don Peppino  2024 – $189

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, Randazzo. .8ha, 140 y.o. vines, ungrafted. Elliptic soil.
  • 97+ POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera le Vigne di Don Peppino comes from a triangular parcel enclosed within the larger rectangular Calderara Sottana vineyard, planted to pre-phylloxera vines approximately 150 years old. The wine does not hold back; in 2024, it reveals itself immediately. It evokes the opulence of Marie Antoinette’s boudoir, says vintner Marco de Grazia, with softness, richness, sweetness, an almost lavish sense of wealth and beauty. The tannins are subtle, but considerable power remains beneath them, creating a deep and lasting sensation in the mouth.”

San Lorenzo 2024 – $79

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 700-850m, Randazzo, 50-100 y.o. vines, Elliptic soil. Coldest climate
  • 97 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo is part of the “Grande Terroir Ellittico” series. San Lorenzo, at approximately 750 meters in elevation, is harvested before the higher Guardiola vineyard. Although the two sites share Ellittico origins, they behave very differently: Guardiola reaches 850 to 900 meters and has poorer soils, while San Lorenzo’s deeper, more generous soils produce greater ripeness and opulence. The 2024 San Lorenzo is softer, fuller and more voluptuous, with a level of richness not found in the Guardiola from the same vintage. Guardiola remains more defined by texture and restraint, whereas San Lorenzo embraces ripe fruit and generosity.”

San Spirito 2024 – $66

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 700-850m. Castiglione di Sicilia
  • 95 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2024 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito shows the richness and sensuality that Marco de Grazia associates with this site. “Dressed to kill,” he calls it—the Ava Gardner of the wines—with generous curves, softness and a perception of sweetness from the fruit. The wine is structured in the mouth, and its youthful, chalky tannins will need time to integrate.”

 

BIANCO

Etna Bianco DOC 2025 – $33

  • Carricante, Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella.
  • North/East side, 600-900m
  • 93 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2025 Etna Bianco is not 100% Carricante but a traditional blend of approximately 70% to 80% Carricante with Catarratto, Minnella, Grecanico and Inzolia. It was born almost accidentally from the white varieties historically interplanted among old red vines on Etna’s north slope. Marco de Grazia originally separated those grapes so that his Etna Rosso could be pure Nerello Mascalese, but he liked the resulting white blend and continued the tradition.”

 Etna Bianco Superiore ‘Le Vigne Niche- ‘Caselle’  2024 – $51.90

  • Carricante 100%
  • South side, 900m, Milo, 90+ y.o. vines (Only Superiore designation for Etna Bianco)
  • 94 POINTS JAMES SUCKLING “Fresh and floral but with white pepper and a noticeably assertive smoky minerality. Light-bodied, this shines with silky texture and zesty yet integrated acidity. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”

Montalto 2024 $49

  • Carricante 100%, 6,000 bottles
  • South side, 900-950m, Montalto district, Biancavilla municipality (Catania)
  • Winemaker Note “Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Montalto is characterized by a voluptuous softness and spicy and “warm” aromas, underlined by a full alcoholic vigor and a balanced freshness resulting from the combination of full exposure at noon and a very high altitude.’

San Spirito 2024 – $49

  • Carricante 100%
  • North side, 700-800m, Castiglione di Sicilia
  • 94 POINTS – WINE ADVOCATE “Aromas of Meyer lemon, nectarine, honeysuckle and an exotic hint of guava. This is a terrific buy; in fact, all these wines offer outstanding value. Fermentation takes place at low temperatures in stainless steel, followed by nine months of maturation in steel.”

 

ROSATO

Etna Rosato DOC 2025 – $33

  • Nerello Mascalese 100%
  • North side, 600-800m, Castiglione di Sicilia and Randazzo
  • 93 POINTS ROBERT PARKER “The Tenuta delle Terre Nere 2025 Etna Rosato is, according to Marco de Grazia, the best rosé the estate has made in 10 years. First produced in 2008, the wine sees three to four hours of skin contact before being pressed directly into vats. Some lots undergo malolactic fermentation and others do not, allowing the team to balance creaminess and glossiness with brightness. The 2025 has remarkable intensity and a precise point of acidity that gives it depth. Herbal and floral notes add lovely complexity. De Grazia calls it a “wine of the Mediterranean,” and the versatility of Nerello Mascalese is remarkable.”

Riesling, Right Now!

Phở Mo’

A series where we order take-out Phở from different places around town, and then taste a few Rieslings we have in stock to see how they play with that particular soup selection.

Then, we report back to you here.

September 28, 2026
Today’s Soup:

Wines selected:

  • Müller-Catoir Mandelgarten Spätlese Nahe 2018 $24.50
  • Carl Loewen Herrenberg Mosel Kabinett 2022 $26
  • Prinz Hallgarten Hendelberg Rheingau Trocken 2020 $28

 

Dang, this soup is delicious!

The broth is fragrant and deeply layered with flavor. Redolent of hard and sweet spices and just enough heat that I’d actually say it’s spicy. Not quite enough to break a sweat, though. Slices of beef with rice noodles, garnished with bean sprouts, basil, and jalapeno kept my interest and attention all the way through. Why am I not getting soup here more often?

 

All three wines were super tasty with this Phở, enough so that anyone of us would’ve been content to finish any one bottle and the bowl in their entirety. In the end, we were evenly divided for a clear favorite. Here’s what we learned from this episode of Riesling, Right Now! Phở Mo’ edition.

 

Prinz Hallgarten Hendelberg Rheingau Trocken 2020

This is the driest and most athletic of these three wines. It delivers a sense of power, an herbal edge, and mineral-bass that really emphasized the beefiness of the soup. I loved how the pleasing iron-iodine quality of beef plays to the hard mineral heft of the wine, and how the wine in turn deepens the dark, hard spices in the broth. The combination is dry, savory, and serious.     

 

Carl Loewen Herrenberg Mosel Kabinett 2022

Fragrance and spice come right through this very proper wine. The texture here feels softer in contrast to the Prinz, but there is still plenty of tension and freshness, with just a touch of sweet to balance a blue-steel-blade of acidity. This wine sings loudest with the basil, alliums, and green elements in the soup, and does so in an exciting way that emphasizes their spiciness over their green or vegetal qualities. This was Cindy and Christian’s favorite.   

 

MÜller-Catoir Mandelgarten Spätlese Nahe 2018

The richest wine of the lot, both in style and age, this one is now flirting with a more golden aromatic-color-spectrum;  young apricot, warm spices, and jasmine honey, sewn together with a thread of live electric wire. I’m showing my hand here, to reveal my own favorite (and Ross too!), as it was this bottle that I felt played best overall, cooling the heat of the jalapeños, lighting up with the fragrance of the spiced broth, and deepening the savory layers.   

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to read this latest episode of Riesling, Right Now! The Phở Mo’ Edition No. 1.

Don’t miss out! Future Phở and future Riesling will be back, right here. 

Cheers!

Ksandek  

Riesling, Right Now!

Back to School: Part Three of Three

The third and final chapter in this Back to School series—in antithesis to the complexity of the previous—is the least rigidly scientific, but without a doubt, the most accessible. We’re presenting a grab bag of dry wines, all from the 2023 vintage, but from a variety of different regions in Germany. Compare and contrast.  

 

Referring back to the German Wine Classification tiers noted in the previous presentation, all of the wines in this third experiment are classified as Qualitätswein*, and not measured with any particular Pradikat. (*QbA: Quality wine from one of 13 official designated wine regions (PDO) that must pass an official quality test).

 

  • Experiment Three:
    • Trockens from different hands across the land
      • Controls
        • Style: Trocken
        • Quality level: Qualitatswein (no Prädikat)
        • Vintage: 2023
      • Variables:
      • Region
        • Nahe
        • Pflalz
        • Mosel
      • Producers
        • Hexamer
        • Von Winning
        • Vollenweider
        • Merkelbach
        • Emrich Schonleber
        • Donnhoff

 

  • You have some freedom to decide how you’d like to explore how regional variations and how they affect the finished wines. The combination of differences in soil type and regional climate variations can mean very different results for wines made from the same grape variety in the same year. Producer’s styles can also be observed in this comparative tasting. Will you compare three Nahe wines, or Mosels? What about one wine from each of the three regions represented? What do you like about each? What stands out?

 

 

While this experiment shows very tidily how Riesling can be produced as a delicious dry wine, I’ll leave you with a few final observations, and some closing theories from this three-part-exercise.  

 

  • Acid = electricity
  • Sweetness is one way to balance acidity
  • There are many ways to approach making wine from one single grape variety
  • German wine is a mouthful before you ever taste it, but is so much fun to explore!

About the Regions presented:

 

Mosel:

The Mosel wine region in Germany follows the winding Mosel River and is famous for producing world-class, mineral-driven Riesling grapes on some of the steepest vineyard slopes on earth. Mosel wine region are defined primarily by ancient Devonian slate on its famous steep slopes, alongside limestone and alluvial river valley deposits.

Nahe:

The Nahe is a compact German wine region located in the state of Rhineland-Palatinate, nestled between the Mosel and Rhine rivers. The region contains over 180 different soil types due to complex volcanic origins. Key soils include slate, quartzite, sandstone, porphyry, clay, and loess. Nahe wines combine the raciness and minerality of Mosel Rieslings with the richer structure and body of Rheinhessen or Rheingau bottles.

Pfalz:

Pfalz is Germany’s second-largest wine-growing region, stretching about 80 kilometers along the scenic German Wine Route in southwestern Germany. The region features a highly diverse mosaic of soils shaped by the collapse of the Rhine Graben and its location along the Haardt Mountains. Pfalz wine region style features ripe, full-bodied, and predominantly dry (trocken) wines with lower acidity and rich stone fruit flavors compared to cooler German regions like the Mosel.

 

About the Vintage:

Acclaimed critics like Paula Sidore and Stuart Pigott praise the 2023 Rieslings as graceful, expressive, and balanced, possessing racy acidity and a slightly riper, richer profile than previous years. Many estate producers compare the successful lots of 2023 favorably to the stellar 2019 vintage due to their poise, symmetry, and aging potential.

 

Featured Wines:

Hexamer, Estate Trocken, Nahe 2023

Regular Price: $29.95                      Vinopolis Price: $26

  • “The palate is spicy and delivers a mélange of herbal and mineral flavors, with even a peppery edge. The finish is, miraculously, balanced, and while it doesn’t linger it is also surprisingly smooth, yet without the weird creaminess of deacidified wines” Notes from Importer Terry Theise 

Emrich-Schonleber, Halgans Trocken, Nahe 2023

Regular Price: $49.95                      Vinopolis Price: $44.50

  • “Fabulous interplay of refined peachy fruit and racy acidity. Compact, concentrated and extremely minerally on the medium-bodied palate, the wine expanding as it shoots over your palate with the brightness of a lightning strike. Drink or hold.” 95 Points- James Suckling

Donnhoff, Estate Trocken, Nahe 2023

Regular Price: $39.95                      Vinopolis Price: $36

  • “Fantastic brilliance and a wealth of delicate stone-fruit and citrus aromas, also floral notes! Barely medium-bodied, but with all the attributes that make a dry Nahe riesling a thing of beauty to behold. Drink or hold. Screw cap.” 93 Points – James Suckling

Von Winning, Estate Trocken, Pfalz 2023

Regular Price: $27.95                      Vinopolis Price: $24

  • “The 2023 Riesling is made from estate-grown fruit only, from the youngest vines and non-classified vineyards, all done in stainless steel. Ripe stone fruit and gentle creaminess on the nose are friendly and sunny. The palate is totally inviting, providing lightness, zestiness, creaminess and above all, bright, gentle fruit. (Dry) (Drink between 2024-2028).” -Anne Krebiehl MW – Vinous

Merkelbach, Trocken, Mosel 2023

Regular Price: $24.95                      Vinopolis Price: $21.90

  • “The 2023er Riesling Trocken comes from fruit picked in the west-facing and higher parcel Zeltinger Himmelreich. It offers a superbly refined, elegant, and finely aromatic nose of whipped almond cream, vineyard peach, minty herbs, smoke, white flowers, and anise. The wine proves super light and airy on the finely juicy and delicately creamy palate. These creamy elements give way to a broader yet also more focused side. This very charming and attractive dry Riesling. 2025-2033.” -Mosel Fine Wines

Vollenweider, Wolfer Trocken, Mosel 2023

Regular Price: $39.95                      Vinopolis Price: $36

“The village-level Wolfer is a bit grander and more elegant, but also perhaps more ruthless than the “Felsenfest.” Every year this is a personal favorite; every year it has some of the most extreme numbers (meaning low residual sugar, high acidity). Sourced from up to 80-year-old vines in the Goldgrube and barrel-aged on the full yeast in barrel and stainless steel for a year, this is always released a year behind the Felsenfest, along with the Grand Crus. Moritz thinks 2023 may be the best dry vintage he has seen. While theoretically a warmer vintage, the wines have a stunning purity and harmony. Note from Importer Vom Boden + 95 Points; James Suckling

Riesling, Right Now!

Back to School Edition: Chapter Two of Three

Well, I’ve really leapt down a rabbit hole with this one…

This second selection of Back to School wines hits the peak of the technical complexity I’ll dive into for now. No promises about what kind of nerdiness the future holds, but that is a promise that the third set will be the most accessible.

Experiment two, takes us to Zeltinger Sonnenuhr in the year 2018.

All three wines presented here come from a vineyard that happens to neighbor the site presented in the previous post. For this study, we’ll taste how winemaker Markus Molitor approaches a few layers of the Prädikats.

About Prädikat:

German wine uses a four-tier quality framework based on the German Wine Classification:

  • Deutscher Wein: Basic table wine with no specific geographic origin required on the label.
  • Landwein: Regional Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) wine from one of 26 broad areas, featuring a defined vintage and origin.
  • Qualitätswein (QbA): Quality wine from one of 13 official designated wine regions (PDO) that must pass an official quality test.
  • Prädikatswein: High-quality subset of Qualitätswein ranked strictly by the natural sugar level (must weight) of the grapes at harvest, with no sugar added during winemaking

 

Prädikats alone doesn’t guarantee sweetness. That decision is up to the winemaker to achieve balance in the finished wine, at which Molitor is expert.

Image depicting grapes at varying prädikats:

The Six Prädikat Levels (In Order of Ripeness)

  • Kabinett: The lightest and lowest alcohol style, usually crisp and semi-sweet, though it can be made dry.
  • Spätlese: Means “late harvest”; richer and more concentrated with fuller body.
  • Auslese: Means “selected harvest” from very ripe, hand-picked bunches, occasionally touched by noble rot.
  • Beerenauslese (BA): Rare, rich dessert wines made from individually selected overripe or botrytized (noble rot) berries.
  • Eiswein (Ice Wine): Made from naturally frozen grapes pressed while frozen at or below -7°C to concentrate sugars and acids.
  • Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA): The peak of the pyramid; intensely sweet, luscious honey-like wines made from shriveled, botrytized individual grapes.
  • Experiment Two: Prädikat
    • Balance can be achieved beautifully at different levels of ripeness, and with varying degrees of sweetness.
      • Controls
        • Winemaker: Markus Molitor
        • Vintage: 2018
        • Vineyard: Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Mosel
      • Variables:
        • Prädikat level
        • Residual sweetness in finished wine
          • Kabinett Gold Kapsel – The least amount of potential alcohol at the time of harvest, but fermented to find balancing sweetness in contrast to intense, youthful acidity.
          • Spatlese White Kapsel – More ripeness in the fruit, but fermented to a powerful dry style. Spice and structure are key features.
          • Beerenauslese Gold Kapsel – Definitely dessert. Picked with the highest potential for alcohol, bottled with the lowest abv. of the three wines here. Honey and spice and so much acid to match that you won’t be able to stop licking your lips for a longtime after each sip.
        • Taste the common characteristics, flavors, and aromatics the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard produces. Observe how ripeness transforms flavors from taut and youthful to golden and opulent.
        • Not necessary for the experiment, but this would be a great time to bake a tarte tatin or peach cobbler…

About Markus Molitor

Notes form importer Banville Wine Merchants

MARKUS MOLITOR was just 20 years old in 1984 when he took control of his father’s winery. Even at such a young age he had a clear vision of what he wanted to accomplish. His ultimate goal was to produce Rieslings from Germany’s famed Mosel region in the family tradition of eight generations before him with a strong dedication to making quality-driven, terroir-specific wines that would be unmistakably characteristic of this unique area. Markus’ guidelines have never changed and remain as uncompromising devotion to quality in the vineyard and cellar, together with an absolute respect for nature. His intent is that each vineyard and vintage should express itself in the taste of every single wine.

 

Markus began with just 1.5 hectares of vineyards in 1984. Over the past 35 years his holdings have grown to 120 hectares, making Markus Molitor one of the largest privately-owned and family-run vineyard and winery in the Mosel region. 75% of his vineyards are located in Grand Cru sites along the Middle Mosel river and 25% are located in the Saar river region. All of the vineyards are located on steep slopes and many of them are planted with old vines (some of the ungrafted vines are 100 years old). Due to the steepness and age of the vineyards, almost all of the work must be done by hand, guaranteeing the utmost quality in the selection process. Organic and sustainable viticulture practices are used in all of Molitor’s vineyards. All of Molitor’s wines are fermented using natural yeasts only. Most the wines are kept in large wooden barrels called Fuders that range in size from 1000 – 3000 liters.

The cellar is carved out of the slate rock of Wehlener Klosterberg and provides an ideal cool and humid environment for slow fermentation. The wines rest “sur lie” for an extended time after fermentation. Markus Molitor is the largest privately-owned, family-run premium winery in the Mosel area and the only German winery to receive 100 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate not once, but fifteen times!

 

About Zeltinger Sonnenuhr:  The Sun Dial Vineyard

Soil Type: Blue Devonian slate

The “sundial” of Zeltingen is the steepest of the three sites in the village and has the poorest soils. Vines here are rooted directly into Devonian slate. The approximately 23-hectare steep slope, facing south-southwest, has a medium-depth, weathered clay slate soil with a high stone content. What makes the Sonnenuhr vineyard special are its largely unconsolidated, ancient vineyards with ungrafted Riesling vines. Wines from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr are incredibly elegant, delicate, vibrant, and possess a refined acidity.

Back to School Set #2 – Markus Molitor Prädikat explorer

All three wine altogether $183

Wines are also sold individually.

 

Set of 3 wines $183

2018 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett Gold Kapsel

Regular price: $31.95      Vinopolis Price: $28

92+ POINTS WINE ADVOCATE “The 2018 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett (Golden Capsule) is intense and aromatic on the nose that displays a concentrated and ripe stone-fruit aroma with reductive, sulfuric notes. Round and silky on the palate, this is a crystalline, salty-piquant and structured Kabinett with intense and sweet yet elegant fruit and a promising long and grippy finish. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.”

 

2018 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese White Kapsel

Regular price: $44.95      Vinopolis Price: $36

93+ POINTS WINE ADVOCATE “The 2018 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spätlese (White Capsule) offers a clear, fresh, bright and aromatic bouquet of white mandarins and mirabelles intertwined with the pure and refreshing tone of crushed stones and herbs. This bouquet gets you into the wine immediately. Round and intense on the succulent palate, this is a medium-bodied, elegant and very charming Sonnenuhr Spätlese with rather mild acidity but a serious terroir expression on the finish.”

 

2018 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Beerenauslese * Gold Kapsel (375mL half bottle)

Regular price: $149.95    Vinopolis Price: $119

 

100 POINTS WINE ADVOCATE “The 2018 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Beerenauslese * is precise, clear and highly refined on the subtle, aromatic and flinty nose that represents perfect, early botrytis. Sweet and piquant on the crystalline and salty palate, this is a pristine, perfectly round and balanced BA with great finesse and elegance. Absolutely fabulous and complete. If you like it sweet, you can already enjoy this BA, due to its finesse and balance.”

Riesling, Right Now!

Back to School Edition: Chapter One of Three

Perhaps it’s my kid’s return to school this week, and their entry into an environment of structured, scientific learning that has me looking at the wine in our inventory in a more analytic manner than usual.

Perhaps it’s just that I’m actually a nerd.

I accept that both can be true at the same time.

Either way, let’s dive in.

The labeling laws for German Riesling communicate the significant details about who, where, when, and several of the hows of the wine’s creation. With fluency in the labels, you can get a better idea of “what” is actually in the bottle before you open it.

It’s a pretty cool system!

But, it is a lot of information, which can feel overwhelming. The good news: it’s based on a structured, scientific approach to measurable details and logic.

So, in the spirit of science and fun, I’ve designed three very delicious Riesling packs you can take home….Err, three very scientific experiments to be conducted for very serious science education purposes.

Experiment One: Vintage

  • Enjoy three wines from the same vineyard site, (Zeltinger Schlossberg), vinified by the same winemaker, (Selbach-Oster) and each harvested at the same ripeness classification, (Kabinett).
  • Controls
    • Vineyard: Zeltinger Schlossberg
    • Winemaker: Selbach-Oster
    • Prädikat: Kabinett
  • Variable: Vintage
    • 2019
    • 2020
    • 2021
  • According to vintage reports for the Mosel region, 2019 is celebrated as a classic, deeply concentrated year balancing rich ripeness with vibrant acidity; 2020 delivered a lighter, more approachable, and softer style with lower acid; and 2021 marked an electric, old-school cool-climate return defined by searing, racy acidity and laser-focused tension.
  • Will your tasting of these three wines show the same results? Will you have a favorite?

About Zeltinger Schlossberg:  

Soil Type: Blue Devonian slate

A Grosse Lage, or Grand Cru, site, steeper overall than Himmelrich, but in comparison to Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, Schlossberg has deeper subsoil of crumbly, broken slate, mixed with organic matter and loam. The vineyard is also further from the Mosel river and gets less of the moderating effect from the wide water surface. The lower sections of Schlossberg (Bömer and Schmitt) are close to the mainly stone houses in the village, which radiate warmth back into the vineyard. The Kabinett produced from this site comes from the higher, cooler parcels closer to the forest which maintain excellent acidity and full aromatic ripeness without too much residual sugar. This is a Kabinett exactly in the style that Johannes Selbach likes to make – firm, crunchy, mineral without an excess of sweetness.

 

About Selbach-Oster:

Today, Johannes Selbach and his wife Barbara, with the help of son Sebastian, manage their vineyards and winery with passion and respect for the estate’s long held traditions. A substantial portion their 24 hectares of vines are on their original rootstocks, in Zeltinger, Schlossberg, and Sonnenuhr; Wehlener Sonnenuhr; and, Graacher and Bernkasteler Graben. These vineyards of weathered Devonian slate are on a steep, contiguous slope facing south-south west and represent some of the most prestigious sites in all of the Middle Mosel, in fact 85% of the Selbach’s vines are on steep slopes. The Selbach family’s heritage in the wine business dates to 1600: Selbach’s ancestors shipped wines down the Mosel in their own ships, the wine carried in oak barrels made by cooper Matthias Oster, the great-grandfather on the paternal side of the family. Thus, the winery developed as both a top estate producing some of the region’s best wine, and also as a négociant and brokerage firm, consolidating the production of smaller growers.

Johannes, like his late father Hans, has continued the use of traditional 1000 L oak fuder in his cellar, bringing in new large casks every few years. Vinification is carried out in a combination of fuder and stainless steel, in a hands-off manner with no fining, and with wild yeasts. The focus is on meticulous work in the vineyard (organic and sustainable farming) with the aim to produce and bring home perfect fruit. Because their approach in winemaking is minimal, Johannes and Sebastian will allow wines to ferment naturally, as slow or as complete as manifest, resulting in more dry wines in some vintages and more fruity wines in others.

 

Vineyard and producer profiles courtesy of importer Skurnik

The image below offers a good visual representation of what Riesling grapes look like at each of the five primary prädikat levels. The three wines presented in this experiment are all Kabinett level.

 

Set of 3 wines $74

Order the Riesling, Right Now!

Back-to-School Set #1

Stay tuned for

Experiment Two: Prädikat

and

Experiment Three: Region/Producer Variation