To borrow parlance from the holiday season it’s the most wonderful time of year when Selbach-Oster’s team decides to visit us at Vinopolis. As one of the oldest houses in the Mosel River Valley, their holdings encompass parcels throughout multiple sub-appellations in some of the most lauded vineyards in the entire country. 

Due to the precipitous slopes of the vineyards the vines are worked and harvested entirely by hand, with cover crops being extensively planted to help prevent erosion in addition to fixing nitrogen. With a portfolio spanning the entire Prädikatswein ladder, the vineyards see multiple passes through the vineyard based on the taste of the grapes and their sugar levels. Even in hotter vintages like 2018 and 2019 the Selbach-Oster clan does a masterful job of balancing residual sugar with the regions characteristic acidity. We carry a full assortment of their bottlings beyond their currant vintages elegant Riesling including Pinot Blancs, Sparkling Riesling and dessert offerings.      

Selbach Oster Wines in stock now: 

Selbach-Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese Mosel 2019 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2019 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese is very clear, pure and flinty on the intense, elegant, crunchy and slatey nose. Salty, piquant and lush on the palate, this is a crystalline, pure and salty Badstube that is juicier and rounder than the 2018. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “The 2019er Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit picked at 90° Oechsle and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (69 g/l). It offers a very delicate and nicely perfumed nose of white flowers, rose petal, vineyard peach, apple, laurel, and herbs. The wine proves delicately juicy and refined on the smooth and slightly juicy palate and leaves a delicate sense of lightness in the more fruity-styled than really sweet-tasting finish. This is a joyful and remarkably easy-drinking expression of Spätlese. 2027-2044.”
 

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Selbach-Oster Riesling Feinherb Mosel 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 18 bottles in stock now   
Case-12 Selbach-Oster Riesling Feinherb Mosel 2019 750ML ($259.95) $195 special (That’s only $16.25 per bottle!)    
Winery note “Selbach-Oster Rieslings are not ‘Zeitgeist’-trendy wines that change according to the whims of fashion. Nor are they ‘made’ according to a recipe. Though they are deeply delicious, they do not seek to ‘seduce’ with short-term exotic aromas from specially cultured yeasts, aromatic enzymes or ice-cold fermentations. They are true characters, wines with structure, wines that display their heritage, rooted deep into the slate rock like our old vines – many of which are still on their own vitis vinifera roots.”
 

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Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Riesling Kabinett Trocken Mosel  2019 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Riesling Kabinett Trocken Mosel  2019 750ML ($319.95) $266 special, (That’s only $22.16 per bottle) 
Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “The 2019er Zeltinger Riesling Kabinett Trocken comes from Estate holdings mainly in the Himmelreich (90%) as well as Schlossberg (10%). It offers a beautifully refreshing and light nose of white peach, apple, mint, herbs, anise, and spices. The wine develops good presence and the intensity of a Spätlese on the palate and leaves a nicely herbal and spicy feel in the surprisingly assertive but very satisfying finish. This is a serious Village wine to age and enjoy. 2023-2029”
 

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Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2019 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Mosel 2019 750ML ($359.95) $279 special, (That’s only $23.25 per bottle) 
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2019 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett is pure and flinty on the pure, elegant, terroir-driven nose. Piquant and crystalline on the palate, this is a crunchy and crispy, well-concentrated and nicely phenolic Schlossberg with juicy fruit but a crystalline and refined finish. Very long and stimulatingly salty. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.”
John Gilman 92 points “The 2019 Schlossberg Kabinett from Selbach-Oster is really a very pretty example of the vintage, but this is more Spätlese in terms of weight and breadth of shoulder than classical Kabinett. However, this takes away nothing from the charm here on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet delivering a lovely blend of white cherry, white peach, a touch of wild yeasts, a refined base of slate, bee pollen and a topnote of apple blossoms. On the palate the wine is medium-full, complex and nicely filigreed, with good acids, fine focus and grip and a long, complex and very nicely balanced finish. Think of this as a hybrid between Kabinett and Spätlese, but with personality to burn! 2020-2040+.”
 

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Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Sekt Extra Trocken Mosel 2018 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 18 bottles in stock now
VinopolNote: Selbach-Oster is known as one of the best Riesling houses in the entire Mosel River Valley. Based in the Mittelmosel they estimate 55% of their grapevines are still ungrafted and entirely planted on mind-bendingly steep slopes. These factors converge with generations of winemaking talent to make some of the most compelling examples of Riesling in the world, be they sweet, dry or sparkling. Their Sekt is no exception, which undergoes champagne-style fermentation in the bottle as opposed to the more standard tank method. This creates a finer bubble, additional complexity and aging potential in the bottle, at half the price of what grower champagne is selling for these days!
 

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Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenhuhr Riesling Beerenauslese Mosel 2018 375ML ($89.95) $79 special, 24 half bottles in stock now 
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2018 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese displays an intense but very clear and radiant citrus color in the glass. The nose is concentrated and fresh, with lemon chutney and broken stone aromas. Pure and fresh on the palate, this is a dense, concentrated, rich yet very precise, fresh and elegant BA with a long, crunchy, terroir-driven finish that represents the delicate slate structure of the Sonnenuhr. Still young but not really sweet due to the crystalline acidity structure. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.”
Mosel Fine Wines 94-96 points “This 2018er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling BA was harvested at approx. 130° Oechsle and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar (approx. 200 g/l). This cask sample offers a gorgeous and clean nose of candied grapefruit, pineapple juice, rhubarb, apricot, melon and honey. The wine is very juicy and sweet on the delicately viscous palate. The finish is quite intense and very long. This BA is still very sweet and juicy, and will please lovers of rich and intense dessert wines. 2028-2058.”
 

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Cayuse Vineyards God Only Knows Armada Vineyard Grenache Walla Walla Valley 2018 750ML ($199.95) $179 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Owen Bargreen Vinous 99 points “The 2018 Red Wine God Only Knows is a truly mesmerizing blend of nearly all Grenache with a small part Syrah, sourced from the Armada vineyard, farmed at a mere 1.5 tons per acre. The incredibly savory nose features blood orange zest, red cherry candy, nori and pomegranate seed with stony undertones. The palate is liquid silk that makes this wine truly all its own. Lip-smacking acidity, beautiful tension and an exceedingly long finish add to the equation. The purity of fruit here is second to none. This very “Château Rayas” bottling is nothing short of perfection in the bottle.”
 

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Cayuse Vineyards Impulsivo Tempranillo Walla Walla Valley 2018 750ML ($179.95) $129 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Owen Bargreen Vinous 97 points “The 2018 Tempranillo Impulsivo En Chamberlin Vineyard may be the best Tempranillo botting I have tasted from Cayuse Vineyards. The wine broods in the glass. Aromatically, you’re greeted by a brilliant core of dark fruits with tobacco leaf, black tea and tar tones. The palate is soft and generous with a sensuous mouthfeel. Even with 50% new large-format French oak, this doesn’t get close to being overly oaked. Silky and elegant to savor now, it has a really long life ahead of it. This is in a league all its own for North American Tempranillo.”
 

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Cayuse Vineyards Wallah Wallah Special Series Syrah Walla Walla Valley  #12 2018 1.5L ($319.95) $289 special, 3 magnums in stock now 
Owen Bargreen Vinous 97 points “The beautiful 2018 Syrah Wallah Wallah Special #12 is a proprietary blend of Syrah sourced from a host of Cayuse vineyards. The palate is plush and silky with light tannins, layers of dark currants, green peppercorns, smoked meats and soot, and an incredible sense of texture. The length is outstanding, as are the viscosity and tension. Gorgeous now, even consumed en magnum, this downright killer wine will cellar well over the next decade.” 
 

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We have plenty of other bottlings available by Cayuse, including back vintages! 

 

It goes without saying that the 2016 vintage in Brunello is one of the best in recent memory. You can tell a lot about a Brunello vintage by how early we start getting asked about it. In the case of the 2016s, well, let’s just say this is a pretty anticipated set of wines. After the relatively hot and dry 2015 vintage, groundwater reserves were restored by a wet and snowy winter, setting the stage for an even longer growing season after generous dormancy. The 2016 vintage is known for having very similar climactic conditions, with the most standout being a lack of heat spikes against cool evenings. 

A vintage that Wine Spectator described as “textbook”, the growing season yielded wines of elegance, freshness and harmony. More red fruited than Brunello’s excellent 2015 vintage, but offering similar levels of concentration, these are wines that are drinking beautifully young but will also age beautifully. Castiglion Del Bosco exemplified this perfectly from their forested perch in the Northwest corner of the appellation. 

Arriving April 2022: 

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 750M ($62.95) $54.50 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 99 points “The complexity and beauty to this is really something with cherry, walnut, tobacco and cigar-box character. Sweet cherries. It’s full-bodied and deep with super intensity and power. Layered and beautiful. Really refined tannins. Some whole-berry fermentation gives this added character. Goes on for minutes. Try after 2025.”
Decanter 97 points “We were lucky enough to have a splendid entry from Brunello di Montalcino this year, as this zone’s other Gold and Platinum medals testify, drawing on both the superb 2015 (Reserva) and 2016 vintages. Much effort went into scrutinising these wines to find a worthy candidate for our Best In Show collection — and here it is. Translucent black-red in colour, shading to a glowing garnet rim, with refined, artfully composed scents of subdued berry fruits, warm summer forest, dried mushrooms and soft suede. The wine is intense, deep, perfectly pitched in structural terms between lively, well-rounded acidity and brisk, sober tannins: a dignified, grave yet rewarding wine for a fine dinner. It is fully accessible now, yet the quality of its fruit and its balance suggest many years’ ageing potential, too.”
Vinous 95 points “The 2016 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino really stands out with its vivid display of crushed raspberries, lavender and clove. Further depths are found with each swirl, adding mentholated herbs and flowery undergrowth. It’s dense and dark-fruited, enveloping the palate with notes of black cherry, plum, exotic savory spice and minerals. This is soothing and pliant in spite of the 2016’s youthful state, balancing brisk acids and fine tannins to create a push and pull of structural tension. The symmetry here is spellbinding, and everything is in the right place for a long and fruitful evolution over the next ten to fifteen years. Tasted twice with consistent results.”
 

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Basque Country is famous for a great many things, with a thriving food and wine scene taking the foreground. Ubiquitous as the porrón from which it’s traditionally served from, Txakoli is a slightly fizzy wine grown in the highlands around the villages made from two closely related grapes. Hondarrabi Zuri and Beltza are white and red grapes respectively that bring to mind the salinity of the nearby sea with electric minerality and bright, citrus flavors. 

Ameztoi on in stock now:   
 
Ameztoi Rubentis Rosado Getariako Txakolina 2020 750ML ($24.95) $19 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Shimmering orange-pink. Pungent cherry and red berry scents take on floral and spice nuances with air. Shows silky texture and good depth to the zesty red currant and bitter cherry flavors, which turn sweeter through the midpalate. Smoothly blends heft and energy and finishes long and nervy, with a hint of bitter orange pith adding final bite.”
Importer note “The pink sibling of Ameztoi’s flagship white, this vibrant rosé is made from a mix of red and white indigenous grapes and is bottled with a little residual carbonation to give it a light spritz.”
Region: Getariako Txakolina, Pais Vasco (Basque Country), Spain.
 

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Ameztoi Primus Txakoli di Getaria Hondarribi Zuri Getariako Txakolina 2019 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Winery note “[Edited for clarity] A white wine from the Hondarrabi Zuri grape. Naturally lightly sparkling. Pale with a touch of green, its bright tone has fine and elegant bubbles. Has a delicate and sophisticated fragrance, reminiscent of green apples and grapes, with a minty note. Opens dry, and is harmonious in the mouth. It has a broad and aromatic finish, which is cheerful because of its bubbles.”
Note on the 2018 vintage by Luis Gutierrez (provided for reference) “The white 2018 Primus is 100% Hondarribi Zuri and was selected with the idea of aging potential. It has 11% alcohol and seven grams of acidity balanced by three grams of sugar, which resulted from fermenting the must in stainless steel at low temperature and keeping the wine with the lees at zero degrees to preserve the dissolved gas. This has a more traditional style with quite a lot of gas, closer to the light, sharp and citrus style, finishing dry with notable tart acidity.”
 

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Ameztoi Txakoli di Getaria Hondarribi Zuri Getariako Txakolina 2020 750ML ($24.95) $19.90 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 91 points “Pale, green-tinged straw. Bright and sharply focused on the nose, displaying fresh citrus and orchard fruit flavors complemented by a chalky mineral topnote. Chewy, lithe and focused on the palate, offering vibrant lemon zest and green apple flavors and a spicy ginger nuance. A floral note emerges with air and carries through a long, taut finish that echoes the mineral note.”
Importer note “Ameztoi Txakolina is traditionally crafted with high acidity and low alcohol, utilizing only the native hondarrabi zuri variety. After hand harvesting, the must ferments in refrigerated stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts from the vineyard. Towards the end of alcoholic fermentation, the tanks are closed to preserve the natural carbonation from fermentation, which is the preferred style of Getaria. The tanks are then kept chilled to near freezing before bottling, which preserves the wine’s delicate, effervescent character and signature mousse. These attributes are unattainable through shortcuts such as force-carbonation, which Ameztoi has never employed.”
 

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There are few places that have been cultivating wine grapes for as long as Provence having been originally settled by the Phocian Greeks in 600 BC. Fast forward a few centuries and you have Chateau Peyrassol continuing these traditions (With a restored historical site at that) under the guidance of the Austruy family, which has invested in the vineyard and winery and has expanded the line up to include non-estate bottlings.

These are historic wines from the foothills of the Massif des Maures along the Mediterranean coast. Wine production dates back to 1256 under the Knights Templar and has been in continuous production since. The wines are produced organically with limited yields due to the severe climate, low-vigor soils, and age of the vines. Provencial rose is famous for being light in color and perfectly crushable. Usually made from blends of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan there are a few rarities that are made predominantly with Tibouren, one of the original grapes planted in the area. Peyrassol is one of the few estates that grow all of the permitted varietals on their estate, with Tibouren being the chief grape of their highest offering; Les Clos. 

Year in, year out, these are our most popular rosés. It’s not hard to guess why: these are well-priced, historic, and delicious.

In stock and available now: 

Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose France 2017 3L ($199.95) $169 special, 7 three-liter bottles in stock now
Importer note “Made entirely from estate fruit in 2017, “Chateau” is primarily Cinsault, with increasingly smaller amounts of Grenache, Mourvedre, Tibouren, and Syrah. This is a higher-toned, more floral, more filigree wine than its brother above, with subtle herbal notes framing clean, lifted fruit on the nose. Though equally as dense—and perhaps more penetrating due to its more overt mineral character—it is no richer than the “Commanderie,” and it expresses the vintage’s firm tension with elegance.”
 

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Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose France 2018 1.5L ($99.95) $69 special, 11 magnums in stock now
Importer note “This is the elite cuvée of the estate relying as it does on grapes harvested from the oldest vines of the domaine (35 years and older). Principally composed of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, the “Chateau” bottling also sees the addition, from time-to-time of Tibouren, the ancient and regal Provencale grape. This Rosé is produced via the “direct press” method and has a long cuvaison designed to produce a wine of character and concentration. Vinified in stainless steel and bottled in late winter – early spring, production is quite limited.”
 

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Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose France 2020 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose France 2020 750ML ($479.95) $369 special, (That’s only $30.75 per bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Light, brilliant orange-pink. Highly perfumed, mineral-accented red berry and pit fruit aromas are complemented by a floral note that builds in the glass. Juicy and sharply focused in the mouth, offering vibrant strawberry, blood orange and white peach flavors and a suave touch of honeysuckle. Concentrated yet lithe in style, finishing with intense mineral- and floral-driven thrust.”
Importer note “100% estate fruit, offering the purest expression of a great Provencal terroir. [These are] the oldest vines of the estate from the Girette and Longchamps areas, currently under organic conversion. Pale in color, with soft rose-tinted overtones, Château Peyrassol radiates freshness. It’s subtle nose of citrus, vine peach, apricot and delicate florals is inviting. It has a dense palate, poised and lively, and is notable for its balance, punctuated by a long, fruity finish. Harvested during the cool temperature of the night, the fruits are destemmed and pressed with minimal exposure to oxygen to preserve freshness and aromas. The grapes are vinified by direct pressing and in the course of this process the wine develops its delicate pink color. After fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, a light racking is completed to retain only the best lees which are then worked carefully to promote both the aromatic expression and the potential of the wine to last over time. 45% Cinsault, 25% Grenache, 12% Ugni Blanc, 10% Syrah, 8% Rolle.”
Winery note “Pale in colour, with soft rose-tinted overtones, Château Peyrassol radiates freshness. Its subtle nose of citrus, vine peach, apricot and fine floral notes is inviting. It has a beautiful, dense palate, delicate and lively, and is notable for its balance and full body, punctuated by a long, fruity finish. It is the perfect accompaniment to fish soups, carpaccios and all varieties of grilled fish, but will also add sparkle to red berry desserts.” 

Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Cuvee des Commandeurs’ Rose France 2020 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 35 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 91 points “Bright onion skin. Incisive red berry, cherry and citrus fruit aromas are complemented by building mineral and floral accents. Silky and energetic on the palate, offering intense strawberry, blood orange and honeysuckle flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Finishes long and gently chewy, repeating the orange and floral notes.”
Importer note “Cuvée des Commandeurs bottles the essence of quality fruit, seeking to evoke pleasure and delight the senses. This accessible rosé was crafted to provide thirst-quenching freshness with vibrant fruitiness, without sacrificing elegance and complexity. Its rosy appearance is delicate in color and an expressive nose lends charm to this blend. A palate dominated by wild berries: gooseberry and raspberry that reveal themselves in a crisp, silky mouthfeel enhanced with a touch of minerality. 40% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 10% Rolle. Harvested at night to preserve the acidity and in double floor boxes to prevent any early maceration and coloration of the juice. The fruit is directly destemmed and pressed on arrival in the cellar. The alcoholic fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.”

Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose France 2019 1.5L ($149.95) $129 special, 12 magnums in stock now
Wine Advocate 93 points “Predominantly Tibouren, with the balance of the blend being Grenache and Rolle, Peyrassol’s super pale 2019 Cotes de Provence Rose Le Clos Peyrassol offers up scents of crushed stone, garrigue, white peach and lime, all tinged with tart red berries. It’s medium-bodied on the palate, with a silky-wet stone feel and a lingering finish that seems to build in red fruit intensity while remaining citrusy and refreshing at the same time. One of the best wines in this year’s tasting, this is a limited-production cuvée from a walled vineyard located on the estate.”
 

 

Looking for a Burgundy that walks the line between elegance and extraction? Look no further than the wines of Pierre Bourée. Just like their cult neighbor Domaine Dujac, the reds are vinified entirely with whole clusters in foudre and raised in oak for two years. New oak is only used to retire barrels too old for production, allowing for the full character of their winemaking practices to be seen.

Founded in 1864 the Domaine has always done mixed production between estate holdings and négociant purchasing from long-term contracts. Currently run by Brothers Bernard and Jean-Christophe Vallet, intervention in the vineyard is limited to pruning in the spring and organic compost for fertilizer.

Bourée wines in stock now: 

Pierre Bouree Fils Le Chambertin Grand Cru Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($319.95) $199 special, 2 bottles in stock now
 

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Pierre Bouree Fils Le Chambertin Grand Cru Cote de Nuits, 2012 750ML ($249.95) $179 special, 3 bottles in stock now
 

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Pierre Bouree Fils Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($229.95) $169 special, 3 bottles in stock now
 

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Pierre Bouree Fils Les Champeaux Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2014 750ML ($139.95) $89 special, 3 bottles in stock now
 

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Pierre Bouree Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Clos de la Justice Monopole Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($299.95) $199 special, 3 bottles in stock now
 

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Pierre Bouree Fils Epenots Pommard Premier Cru 2009 750ML ($149.95) $89 special, 3 bottles in stock now
 

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Collector’s Corner: 
Daniel Landi 
 

When discussing the Grenache Revolution in Spain, you have to mention the work of Daniel Landi. One of the two founders of the cult label “Comando G” he has built his career around elevating Grenache to new heights. Originally hailing from Méntrida, a rural village in the Castille-La-Mancha Daniel Landi has been surrounded by Grenache practically from birth. With en masse wine production dating back to the 15th century, there are vineyards everywhere you look.

The historical prevalence of viticulture extends into the Sierra de Gredos Mountains, where Daniel sources his best fruit. Planted amongst the granite boulders and scrub vegetation, vines are 50 years old at the youngest and farmed biodynamically. The mineral rich soil, high elevation and extensive root networks make irrigation unnecessary and for one of the most compelling iterations of Grenache you’ll ever find. With the exception of his entry level cuvee, every wine that Daniel Landi makes is a single-vineyard expression to highlight the nuance of each parcel.  

Daniel Landi Wines in stock now: 

Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi ‘Las Uvas de la Ira’ Garnacha Mentrida 2018 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93 points “The red 2018 Las Uvas de la Ira has been produced with Garnacha from the same five vineyards since the initial vintage (2012) in the village of El Real de San Vicente, which is one of the villages from Méntrida (Toledo) that are part of the Gredos Mountains. The vines range between 40 and 65 years of age, and they are located at around 750 meters in altitude on sandy granite soils with lots of silt. The different vineyards are fermented separately in oak vats with indigenous yeasts and a very gentle vinification, one-third with very long macerations to provide structure and depth, one-third with a very short maceration to provide fragrance, and the remaining third finished the fermentation without skins (like a white) to add juiciness. The élevage is in oak foudres of different sizes, from 1,500 to 4,000 liters. This is a little less aromatic and more austere but very focused and bright, from a village where the wines are serious and have a chalky texture, less floral but more citrus, a bit more backward. It has a compact palate, with very fine tannins and a more chalky finish. It’s interesting to taste it next to wines from other villages, as you clearly see the difference. 18,700 bottles produced. It was bottled in August 2019.”
 

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Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi ‘Cantos del Diablo’ Mentrida 2017 750ML ($119.95) $79 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94+ points “The single-vineyard 2017 Cantos del Diablo was produced with the grapes from 0.35 hectares in the village of El Real de San Vicente (Toledo), the highest vineyard in the Méntrida appellation. It’s a north-facing plot at 900 meters in altitude that was planted some 70 years ago on sandy granite soils rich in silt and is worked biodynamically. The grapes, with all the stems, fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats, and the wine matured in a 1,200-liter oak foudre for 12 months. This was one of the few villages from Gredos that escaped the hail and frost, and it was a dry year, so harvesting was early (10 to 15 days earlier compared with a “normal” vintage!). It’s aromatic and floral but has the austerity of the wines from El Real de San Vicente as well as a texture like liquid chalk and very fine, powdery tannins. It’s clean and ripe without excess, with a nice combination of fruit and minerality, really balanced, with intensity and finesse. Excellent 2017! 1,362 bottles were filled in March 2019.”
 

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Daniel Gomez Jimenez-Landi ‘Cantos del Diablo’ Mentrida 2018 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95 points “The single-vineyard 2018 Cantos del Diablo was produced with the grapes from 0.35 hectares of 70-year-old Garnacha in the village of El Real de San Vicente (Toledo) at 900 meters in altitude, the highest vineyard in the Méntrida appellation. It’s a north-facing plot on sandy granite soils with lots of silt that deliver chalky tannins and a citrus freshness in the wine. The whole clusters fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats with a long maceration followed by an élevage in a 1,400-liter oak foudre for 12 months. This was extremely closed, even after a long time in the glass. It’s a vineyard that delivers more reductive wines (matchstick) with a strict palate and a strong mineral sensation. 1,620 bottles were filled in March 2020.”

As “The noble grape that provides great wines in all regions and price points” you can find a bottling for everyone. We’ve compiled a selection of Chardonnays from around the world for “Treasure and Pleasure” as the saying goes. Regardless if you prefer your Chardonnay along the stylings of her birthplace in Burgundy, the tropical lushness of California or even sparkling we have you covered!

As you might have read in wine press over the past decade, Oregon is often compared to Burgundy in style and climate. After a string of highly successful vintages the Chardonnay especially is being lauded as some of the most complex and ageworthy in the New World. We carry a plethora of the best, including Cameron and Jim Maresh’s Tan Fruit lineup among other standouts. 

California is famous around the world for her Chardonnay with an entire ecosystem of different styles, growing regions and practices. After stunning the world in the 1976 Judgement of Paris, California chardonnay became comparable to white burgundy and has been a measuring rod ever since. In the ensuing decades since this upset, two styles have taken prominence in the State’s output. On one end of the spectrum there is the rich, plush and riper style that made California an icon; and a leaner, mineral and restrained iteration that’s meant to emulate the “French style” of winemaking. 

Chardonnay selections in stock and available now: 

Joseph Drouhin Bourgogne Chardonnay Burgundy 2020 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Joseph Drouhin Bourgogne Chardonnay Burgundy 2020 750ML ($239.95) $189 special, (that’s only $15.75/bottle!)
 

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Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Les Cloux Pernand-Vergelesses 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 35 bottles in stock now
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc “Les Cloux”: “Les Cloux” is a well-situated lieu-dit on the north side of the hill of Corton, adjacent to the premier cru “Sous Fretille” (see below). It faces southeast on a high, steep part of the hillside, and a general lack of any direct breeze there encourages notable ripeness. The wine possesses a lower-pitched, deeper nose than the basic Pernand-Vergelesses above, but with an equivalent limestone intensity more solid in its character than powdered. The palate is richer and thicker as well, but suffused with the alert acidity typical of the Rollin style. Only 20% of the oak employed during the elevage is new.”

William Fevre Beauroy Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2017 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru is beautifully lifted and nuanced. Floral and citrus notes give the Beauroy striking lift as well as nuance. Readers will find a gracious, super-expressive Chablis that drinks well now and also has the potential to develop nicely in bottle.”
 

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Doyard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne 2013 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 11 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru has also turned out beautifully, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, peach, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, it’s taut and chiseled, with serious reserves of concentration and a long, mineral finish. Disgorged in spring 2021, while its quality is apparent, this is predictably a little introverted out of the gates, so I look forward to revisiting it later this year.”

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne  NV 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 24 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “The latest rendition of Delamotte’s NV Brut Blanc de Blancs is drinking very well out of the gates, offering up aromas of crisp orchard fruit and citrus zest mingled with hints of fresh bread and wet stones. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and precise, with bright acids and chalky grip, concluding with a dry finish, this is a classy, seamless wine that will offer a broad drinking window.”

Andre Clouet Chalky Brut Champagne  750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 22 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 93 points “[Reviewed 2021] Brimming with fresh apple, lemon and wild-berry aromas underlined by a note of freshly baked baguette, this begins so charming, then it turns in a fascinating mineral direction with a pronounced saline quality. The excitement comes from the tension between these two sides of this very distinctive champagne. Very long, chalky finish. 100% chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. Drink now.”
 

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Isole e Olena Collezione Privata Chardonnay Toscana IGT Tuscany ($59.95) $49 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2019 Chardonnay Collezione Privata is a real achievement, especially in its natural ability to showcase varietal purity and textural importance in equal measure. The wine is fermented in oak and spends some time on the fine lees with frequent stirring. Aromas of poached pear, honey and stone fruit segue to a glossy note of latex or natural rubber that I personally find very attractive. The bouquet shows very light toast with some sweet nuttiness and almond paste. Drying mineral tones add a touch of linearity and extra elegance on the close.”
 

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Cameron Winery ‘Abbey Ridge’ Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2018 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 34 bottles in stock now
VinopolNote: Abbey Ridge sits high atop the Dundee Hills; a collection of vines planted on their own roots in the mid-70’s. It’s unquestionably one of the most special sites in the Willamette Valley and though it’s better known for Pinot Noir, the Abbey Chard is fantastic.  This is the most limited of the Chardonnay bottlings from Cameron and isn’t produced every year.

Tan Fruit Maresh Vineyard Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2019 Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard comes from Dijon clones planted in 1991, and it was matured in about 35% new oak. This vintage is pure and tensile, with scents of tarragon and fragrant herbs, beeswax and almonds, with plush white peach fruit. The palate combines intense ripe fruit with a spine of tangy, tense acidity, and it finishes with tremendous length. Allow it another 3-5 years in bottle.”

Tan Fruit ‘Tank Fruit’ Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 99 points “The Chardonnay Tank Fruit comes from the same Oak Grove fruit as that vineyard designate, but was aged a bit longer, with 12 months in oak and another 12 months in stainless steel. It is pure, ultra perfumed, intense and layered, with alluring white peaches and lilac interwoven with cashews and honeycomb on the nose. The palate derives incredible energy from the push-pull of those deeper tones with salty, energetic acidity, and it finishes with extraordinary length.”

Peter Michael ‘Ma Belle-Fille’ Chardonnay Knights Valley 2019 750ML ($134.95) $119 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate 97-98 points “Ma Belle Fille is the highest of the Peter Michael vineyards, located at 1,200-1,800 feet. Planted to a field selection of Hudson, Old Wente, Montrachet and Calera clones, it is also the earliest ripening vineyard. A tank sample due to be bottled in just a few days, the 2019 Chardonnay Ma Belle Fille slips seductively out of the glass with tantalizing notes of warm apple slices, ripe nectarines and spice cake, giving way to a beautiful perfume of honeysuckle, beeswax and tangerine peel, plus a waft of cashews. Full-bodied, the palate delivers mouth-coating stone fruit and spiced apple flavors with a lively backbone and decadent oiliness to the texture, finishing on a long-lasting honey-nut note. 2,017 cases were made.”

Mount Eden Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay Edna Valley 2017 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 93 points “This comes mostly from the Wolff vineyard with some fruit from the Middle Ranch vineyard. The 2017 Edna Valley Chardonnay opens with wonderful aromas of honeycomb, orange blossoms, saline, crushed shell and loads of baked apple and quince with an earthy undercurrent. The palate is medium-bodied, satiny and intense, with seamless freshness on the finish, which lingers with honeyed notions.”

Mount Eden Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay Edna Valley 2018 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2018 Chardonnay Wolff Vineyard from Edna Valley is pure, energetic and fresh this vintage. The nose is lovely, loaded with floral perfume and ripe citrus fruits. The palate is silky and expansive with a shimmering mineral character and a long, pure finish. It improved over the two to three days it was open and will benefit from a long decant. 4,256 cases produced.”

Don’t see your favorites listed ? Check out our full selections of Chablis and Chardonnay in general, but don’t forget our feature on Etienne Defaix’s latest release after our Closeout feature from Germany!

Likely the first area in Germany to be planted en masse with grapevines, its first mention is by the Roman poet Magnus Ausonius in 370 A.D with their first settlement being founded in 15 B.C. In the same way that Neuschwanstein Castle is the face of Bavaria and German architecture as a whole, the Mosel Valley is the face of the Rhine and German wine. The Terrassenmosel, or Burg Cochem as it’s called by the locals, is one of the most visually spectacular areas of the entire valley. Featuring the steepest vineyards in the entire world, exceptionally old vines and unique soil composition of iron, slate and quartz these are some of the rarest and most compelling out of the entire valley. These are Rieslings that feature incredibly high acids, pervasive minerality and a plethora of secondary flavors like hoshigaki, saffron and ginger. From a stylistic perspective these are “serious” wines that are usually bone dry, with some sweet examples to be found in exceptional years. They require bottle age to even begin expressing their potential, with the best having almost unlimited life in the bottle. 

Mosel Selections in stock now: 

Heymann-Lowenstein Uhlen B Blaufusser Lay Riesling, Mosel 2016 750ML ($69.95) Was $57, Now $49, 3 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2016 Riesling Uhlen B ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ is pure, fresh and rich at the same time, with flinty aromas on the nose. Full-bodied, precise and piquant on the palate, this is an elegant, fresh and salty Riesling with a lot of tension and length. Powerful. Long.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “This offers a gorgeous nose of candied grapefruit zest, some star fruit, ripe pear and apple, all wrapped into the telltale classy touch of fine spices and herbs so typical of the Estate. The wine is medium-bodied on the palate and leaves a beautifully pure, spicy and mineral-loaded feel in the long and delicately powerful finish. This is a gorgeous wine in the making with a hint of power and nice saltiness in the after-taste.”
 

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Heymann-Lowenstein Uhlen Laubach Riesling, Mosel 2016 750ML ($69.95) Was $59, Now $49, 8 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “From a slate soil with 10% chalk, the 2016 Riesling Uhlen L ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ shows licorice, flinty and bright fruit aromas on the nose. Juicy, piquant and tensioned on the palate, this is an intense and complex Riesling with lush and intense fruit. The finish is long and promising. Tasted February 2018.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92+ points “This offers a stunning even if still rather reduced nose of pear, grapefruit, start fruit, ginger and smoky elements. The wine is beautifully balanced on the palate, where creamy fruits are nicely wrapped into a hint of acidity and some superb mineral and herby elements. The delicately powerful after-taste oozes refinement, under-toned freshness and multi-layered complexity. This is a gorgeous Uhlen L in the making and one with great upside potential as the wine gains in elegance at maturity.”
 

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Heymann-Lowenstein ‘R’ Winninger Uhlen Roth Lay Auslese Goldkapsel, Mosel 2007 375ML ($99.95) Was $59, Now $49, 16 half-bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 96 points “Candied citrus, jujube, sweet spice and quince paste aromas and flavors mark this sweet, bracing Riesling, which is light on its feet and resonates on the finish with a mouthwatering feel and echoes of citrus. Best from 2012 through 2045.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “Lowenstein’s 2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Roth Lay (as in the corresponding dry wines, the letter “R” is prominent on the label of this A.P.#9) benefits from counterpoint and collaboration among bright citrus, rich pit fruit essences, and the honey of botrytis. For all of its enormous sheer ripeness and concentration, this retains a striking sense of delicacy. A snappy, spicy, pungent streak – taken together with vivid, diverse pit fruits and citrus – serves for exhilaration in a finish of memorable length and energy, with a vivid impression of crushed stone one hardly expects in a wine of such sweetness and prominent botrytization. There seems to be something of a personality role reversal at work this year, because the corresponding Rottgen Auslese is cool and refined whereas this Uhlen displays more of the piquancy and (as French growers might say) nervosite that I associate with Rottgen. But then, botrytis is always something of a wild card, so that a wine like this is profoundly and unpredictably influenced by the precise microclimatic conditions for and differences in the nature of that fungus. No doubt this too will be worth following for two or more decades.”
 

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Heymann-Lowenstein ‘R’ Winninger Uhlen Roth Lay Auslese, Mosel 2010 750ML ($199.95) Was $99, Now $89, 27 bottles in stock now
 

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Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese** “Herzlay”, Mosel 2013 750ML ($69.95) Was $59, Now $49, 8 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 90 points “Offers lots of pastry puff notes to the airy peach and melon flavors. Spicy and lush, with a pillowy finish that lingers with dried ginger accents. A delicate style. Drink now through 2038. 5 cases imported.” WS
 

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Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay Riesling, Mosel 2011 750ML ($59.95) Was $49, Now $33, 21 bottles in stock now
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The Rotlay is a great wine in this vintage, and offers very complex and fine flavors of spices, salt, mineral, bakery products and apricot flower. The zesty, pure and delineated structure is impressive. This is superb. 2021-2031.”
Wine Advocate 91+ points “Carob and toasted nuts inflect baked apple and vanilla on the nose of Selbachs’ block-picked 2011 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay, which comes to the palate expansive, creamy, and buoyant (at 8.5% alcohol), its apple joined by almost overripe Persian melon. Hints of pip and botrytis bitterness add interest, but there is not the subtle interaction of flavors or the layer of primary juiciness that rendered the corresponding Anrecht bottling so memorable, but instead a more dominantly honeyed, soothingly rich personality. This long-finishing beauty may well – as its author suggests – just need some time to reveal its multiple layers.”
 

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Easily the most famous of the Mosel’s sub- regions is Bernkastel or Middle Mos. Called the “heart” of the Mosel Valley; it is the most planted in terms of acreage and also production. Some of Germany’s most famous vineyards are nested in this area including Ürziger Würzgarten, Bernkasteler Doctor, and Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The confluence of slope and refraction create a richer and fuller bodied style of Riesling that defines the area and also acts as a measuring rod for the rest of the country. These vineyards feature vast percentages of the trademark blue and gray slate which also aids in ripening, and contributes a clean slate-like character to the wine. The more favorable growing conditions allow for the entire spectrum of Riesling to be produced ranging from dry to lusciously sweet (Sometimes from the same vineyard). Bernkastel also holds the crown for highest price ever fetched at auction for a German wine. The bottle in question? A bottle of 1921 Berncastler Doctor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese that had been secretly hidden in their underground cellar for decades. It was sold in 1986 for over $16,000.

Bernkastel Selections on sale now: 

Selbach-Oster ‘Schmitt’ Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling, Mosel 2012 375ML ($37.95) Was $28, Now $24, 3 half-bottles in stock now
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “($54) Pale golden yellow. Rich bouquet of candied apricot, ginger and nut oil. Succulently juicy pineapple and crisp slate animate the supple, creamy texture. The seductive finish is only slightly sweet. Boasts excellent balance and considerable promise.”
 

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The Ruwer is one of the most unique of the Mosel sub- regions, in that it does not receive the benefits of refracted sunlight off the surface of the river like her sisters Bernkastel or Terrassenmosel due to the smaller size of the Ruwer river. Climatologically speaking this slows ripening and requires longer hang time on the vine, reflected in the in the wines produced with higher sugar levels and pronounced floral aromatics. The soil here is deeper than other sub-regions and contains veins of iron but still featuring a base of slate like the rest of the Mosel. Examples from this area usually feature generous amounts of fruit, refreshing herbaciousness, high acidity and a slightly spicy finish. This was one of the most favored winegrowing areas by the Romans, with archeological sites showing wine production dating back to the first century (Making it one of the first colonized and planted by the empire!) If you appreciate the delicate and ethereal qualities of Riesling, this is a sub-region to try!

Ruwer Selections in stock now: 

Carl von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 24, Mosel 2015 750ML ($99.95) Was $79, Now $69, 9 bottles in stock now
Mosel Fine Wines 95 points “This offers gorgeous scents of peach and herbs on the nose. Star anise, ginger and coconut join the flavors on the creamy yet racy palate and leave a superbly racy, cassis and mint-infused feel in the long finish. What a beauty! 2025-2050.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94+ points “The 2015 Maximin Grünhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 24 is super clear and very intense on the bright and concentrated nose. Fresh and piquant on the palate, with a good mineral grip and complexity, this is a highly finessed, intense and piquant Auslese of great class and with a distinctive character. The berries were shrivelled to raisins without a noble rot, says Carl von Schubert.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 93 points “This was picked near the end of October, “principally,” as von Schubert explained, “from shriveled [rosinierte] and to a lesser extent botrytis-affected berries. The dominance of desiccated berries made for high acidity as well as must weight. Right after this picking, we got another rain,” he added, “so it was good that we had finished up.” Persian melon and white peach inform a heady nose and a glossy, expansive, almost custard-rich palate. There is just enough primary juiciness to supply welcome refreshment, but for now at least, the elevated acidity isn’t evident. Hints of marzipan and licorice lend a confectionary cast to the lusciously lingering finish.”
 

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Carl von Schubert Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Superior Riesling, Mosel 2014 750ML ($59.95) Was $49, Now $39, 19 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 94 points “Very clear and smoky on the still discreet and yeasty-flavored, dense nose, the 2014 Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Superior is a very elegant and round, finesse-full and persistent Riesling; it has a long and salty, very complex but beautifully fine, yet firmly structured and great finish. Impressive Riesling for the next 25 or 30 or more years.”
Wine & Spirits 92 points “Since Kraml came on in 2004, he’s weaned the vines off of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, dropped yields and moved to ambient yeast fermentations, many of which he does in traditional, large oak fuder made from the estate’s own trees. He’s also introduced the “Superior” wines, made in a traditional feinherb style, fermented in fuder and bottled with a little residual sugar. In 2014, the treatment seems to magnify the character of each vineyard, and lends the wines extra strength. The Abtsberg emphasizes the filigreed delicacy and peach scents common to the fruit off its cool blue slate, as well as the profundity of its mineral flavors. It’s not recognizably sweet; rather, this is sugar as muscle, making the best of a vintage short on sun.”
 

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Weingut Jos. Christoffel Jr. Christoffel-Prum Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese ***, Mosel 2014 750ML ($59.95) Was $33, Now $29, 27 bottles in stock now
VinopolNote: Erderner Prälat occupies a mere 2.2 hectares. Entirely south-facing, the vineyard is surrounded by cliffs which insulate the vines – as a result, Prälat is one of the warmest plots in the region. Over time, it has also become one of the most sought-after vineyards. Given the limited space, only a few winemakers have access to the vineyard.
 

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Peter Lauer ‘Kern’ Ayler Kupp Fass 9 Riesling, Mosel 2017 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $33, 16 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott 94 points “Tropical and creamy, but it also shows a very firm core — Kern means core in German. This is another stunningly original wine from Peter Lauer. A lot of power at the finish. Drink or hold.”
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2017er Kern Fass 9 comes from old vines in a prime south-west-facing part of the original Ayler Kupp hill situated well into the side valley and was fermented down to almost fruity levels (40 g/l of residual sugar). It offers a delicately vibrant nose of candied grapefruit, cassis, lemon zest, ginger and fine herbs. The wine is beautifully focused and just fruity-styled on the palate and leaves a vibrant feel of zesty acidity and bitter lemon in the long and delicately tart finish. This is a beautiful expression of fully off-dry tasting Riesling in the making! 2022-2032.”
 

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Peter Lauer ‘Neuenberg’ Fass 17 Riesling, Mosel 2015 750ML ($59.95) Was $49, Now $39, 19 bottles in stock now
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “The 2015er Ayler Kupp Neuenberg Fass 17 is fermented off-dry from parcels in the former single vineyard Neuberg situated just below the Ayler Herrenberger. It offers a gorgeous nose of white and yellow peach, ginger, herbs and spices. The wine is beautifully balanced on the palate, where grip provides great structure and adds to the saline feel in the long finish. This only needs a few years to develop its inner balance and shine.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “Alluringly aromatic and succulent ripe white peach and cherry are accented by piquant fruit pit and crystalline stony inflections for a performance that’s luscious but also dynamic and full of intriguing counterpoint. As with the corresponding Unterstenberg, there is a high-toned distilled fruit aura; and as with this year’s “Senior,” oily richness of texture is entirely compatible with refreshment and transparency to mineral nuance.”
 

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Weingut Bastgen Kestener Paulinshofberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2015 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $33, 6 bottles in stock now
Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “This offers a rather ripe nose of grapefruit, pineapple, Limoncello, bergamot, herbs, almond and spices. The wine is nicely made and fruity on the palate and leaves a clean and fresh feel in the zesty but powerful finish. This is nicely made in a very enjoyable style! 2023-2035”
Importer note “Yellow color with green highlights. Beautiful peach aromas on the nose, rich and ripe fruits on the mouth with a refreshing acidity and honey notes. A very pleasing wine. The estate, founded in 1850, is located in the tiny hamlet of Monzel, not far from Bernkastel-Keus, overlooking the steep sloping vineyards and Mosel River. The average total production is 3,300 cases, and their wine is sold mainly in Germany, Switzerland, U.K and the U.S. The current owners are Armin Vogel (husband) and Mona Bastgen (wife) who began working in the winery in 1993. Mona and Armin meticulously tend 4.5 ha (11.11 acres) of which 80% is Riesling. The soil is made of slate. The vineyards are located in Kesten and Brauneberg, on a steep terrace, and planted to 50-year old vines. The vines produce very small, ripe berries that are very tasty.”
 

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Weingut Clemens Busch Marienburg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2018 750ML ($34.95) Was $24, Now $19.50, 36+ bottles in stock now
James Suckling 92 points “Lightly smoky with some lemon pith and dried spices. There’s some light sweetness here, but it’s nicely balanced out by the edgy acidity. Taut and very precise on the finish. Drink now.”
David Schildknecht-Vinous 91 points “White peach, apple, honeydew melon and lime are tinged with lemongrass and cilantro on the nose, and with nippy cress on an otherwise polished, lusciously fruited and subtly soothing palate. Nearly 60 grams of sugar manage to come off as entirely supportive, and the lingering finish both soothes and stimulates. (This year’s village-level Busch Kabinett seemed oddly out-of-sorts on the sole occasion – side by side with this Marienburg – that I was able to taste it, so I have left it un-reviewed.)”
Wine Spectator 91 points “Shows yeasty notes at first, with accents of jasmine and hops, followed by electric acidity that fuels the green apple, lemon and nectarine flavors. Balanced and beautiful in terms of texture, exhibiting substance. Smoky details emerge on the well-defined finish. Best from 2021 through 2033. 550 cases made, 60 cases imported. — AZ”
AP #11
 

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Weingut Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2018 750ML ($49.95) Was $33, Now $28, 28 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “Rich and exotic, featuring mango, brown spice, slate, smoke and citrus notes. Open and fluid in style, crafted with precision and intensity. The submerged acidity reveals itself on the finish, along with a tactile sensation on the palate. Best from 2022 through 2038.”
James Suckling 95 points “A very impressive Spätlese that’s so aromatic and expressive; it leads with dried apricots, passion fruit, melon sorbet, milk ice cream and earth. Sweet and powerful for this category, but the acidity runs right through the center palate, bringing the stone-fruit and tropical flavors to life and leaving the mouth with wicked resolve. Drink now.”
David Schildknecht-Vinous 91 points “White peach and nectarine are garlanded in heliotrope, leading to a lusciously fruity and perfumed performance on a soothingly creamy palate. The lingering finish is intensely fruity, with just enough brightness and piquancy of fruit pit to push back against the overbearing sweetness.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2018 Marienburg Spätlese is clear and bright on the nose, offering ripe and elegant fruit. Light, lush and piquant on the palate, this is a stimulating, not all too sweet yet perfectly balanced and salty Spätlese. It doesn’t need to be cellared for decades—it already drinks very well. Tasted from AP 1419 in July 2020.”
AP #14
 

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“A genial gourmet, Daniel-Etienne Defaix is one of Chablis’s personalities, and his wines are no less characterful. He releases his sapid, gourmand expressions of Chablis at maturity—that’s to say, some 15 years after everyone else in the region….These are textural, complex wines that evoke the white Burgundies of yesteryear, and they may confuse consumers habituated to the tart, brittle, processed wines that are often passed off as expressions of region’s “terroir.” Their potential to develop in bottle and their capacity to pair with a thrilling variety of foods, however, make them fascinating, at least to this writer. Much of the production is sold to France’s best restaurants, but what reaches the export market is well worth seeking out.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Daniel-Etienne Defaix wines arriving Friday, March 25th 

Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Cote de Lechet Chablis Premier Cru 2006 750ML ($69.95) $51.90 pre-arrival special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2006 Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet is a superb example of the vintage, offering up aromas of citrus oil, beeswax and oyster shell complemented by subtle hints of clear honey. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, its textural attack segues into a bright, chiseled mid-palate, concluding with a mouthwatering, intensely saline finish. More chiseled and tightly wound than its 2005 counterpart, this is a 2006 with a long future ahead of it, transcending the vintage’s limitations.”
 

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Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Les Lys Chablis Premier Cru 2006 750ML ($69.95) $51.90 pre-arrival special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2006 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys is showing beautifully, offering up inviting aromas of pear, honeycomb, mandarin oil, warm bread and oyster shell. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with an enveloping core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish, it’s fleshy but controlled, with more texture than the Côte de Léchet and more structure than the Vaillons.”
 

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We can’t introduce these wines any better than Antonio Galloni of Wine Advocate: “This is a breathtaking set of wines from proprietor Dominique Moreau. I can’t say enough good things about these artisan Champagnes. If Moreau keeps making wines like these she will soon be one of the superstars of Champagne. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these fabulous wines.” 

Dominique opened the vineyard in 2005, naming the house after her grandmother, Marie Courtin, who she described as a “woman of the earth”. That same spirit in mind, Dominique has set out to produce single-vineyard, single varietal, single vintage Champagnes from biodynamically-grown grapes, using indigenous yeasts and no dosage. Dominique also embraces a spirituality in her production and pays devoted care to the evolution of the grape in the vineyard as well as in the wine. Each of the estate’s four cuvees have their own personality and spiritual significance to Dominique. With these wines, Marie Courtin is quickly becoming a recognizable name in grower champagne. These are champagnes that require time both in the cellar and in the glass to fully unfurl.

Marie Courtin wines in stock now: 

Marie Courtin Resonance Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (2017) 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
No review for the 2017-base. 2016-base review provided for reference.
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2016 Extra Brut Resonance, 100% Pinot Noir from a tiny parcel of 40 year-old vines in Polisot, bristles with energy and tension. Orchard fruit, white flowers, sage, chalk and mint all race out of the glass. With a bit of air, the richer side of Pinot starts to emerge as the wine gains breadth and volume. Proprietor Dominique Moreau has captured energy as well as richness, while avoiding the stark austerity that once defined her Champagnes. Bright floral and savory overtones linger effortlessly. Disgorged: November, 2019.”
 

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Son of the famous Giacomo Conterno, Aldo purchased his own estate in 1969, Favot, to explore alternatives to the strictly traditional methods of the family estate. He took inspiration from Angelo Gaja and from his experiences while traveling through the United States. Although he introduced some modern winemaking techniques that improved the quality of the wines, including temperature-controlled fermentation, he never fully embraced the “modern” style. He eschewed new oak on the Barolos and continued to hand-harvest the grapes, using gentle pressing and shorter macerations in the cellar. The results were polished and elegant wines with pure and bold fruit profiles. Since his passing in 2012, his three sons have run the estate. These are standard bearer wines for the region, and worthy of a dedicated spot in your cellar.

Poderi Aldo Conterno ‘Il Favot’ Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont 2018 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 90 points “A combination of strawberry, cherry, currant and iodine aromas and flavors are the hallmarks of this juicy, complex red. Firms up at the end, with a subtle length. Drink now. 1,500 cases made, 300 cases imported. — BS”

The average price is $49

Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussia, Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 92 points “The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia shows a dark but busy quality of fruit that speaks more to the power of this hot vintage than it does the nuanced side of Nebbiolo. In this respect, the wine is quite typical of the 2017 growing season. It takes a while before the wine finds focus in the glass, but it does slowly come together to reveal broad layers of dark cherry, cassis and plum. There is some tannic tightness that leads to sour berry. A bit awkward at this young stage, it needs a few more years of cellar age to flesh out and reach balance.” 

Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussia Cicala, Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($219.59) $179 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 95 points “A solid, powerful style, this expressive red is well-marked by new oak, with plum, cherry, cigar box, menthol and sun-kissed hay flavors. Balanced and lively, with refined tannins and a long, spice-infused finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. —B.S.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 91 points “The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Cicala reveals a deep garnet color with some dark copper. Like the other 2017 wines from this celebrated producer, I can’t help but suspect that these areas of Bussia suffered from the heat and some of the other weather challenges associated with this growing season. A clear note of overt ripeness comes across as dried strawberry or sweet crème de cassis. The finish is similarly weighed down by the fruit weight and oak tannins.”

Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonnello, Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94+ points “The Poderi Aldo Conterno 2017 Barolo Bussia Colonnello shows good focus, structure and a sharper character that is often the distinguishing factor in this wine. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit and plum, but it also shows a solid framing of iron ore and dark stony mineral. These give the wine greater lift and contoured edges. This is not the first time that Colonnello is my favorite wine in this lineup, and I suspect it won’t be the last.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Offering plum, cherry, iron, eucalyptus and black pepper aromas and flavors, this broad red has absorbed the oak treatment pretty well already, with a dense matrix of tannins and lively acidity. Balanced and long, ending with elements of mineral and spice. Best from 2025 through 2043. —B.S.”

In the world of top tier Champagne, there is only one “James Bond” of Têtes: The Bollinger Grande Anne. Arguably the most featured champagne in the novel and movie series, it’s been referenced no less than fifteen different times since the debut vintage in 1956. 

Comprised almost entirely of Grand Cru grapes with the barest amount of dosage added, the idea is to have the Grande Anne be a “snapshot” of the year through the eyes of Bollinger. The entirely oak fermentation and aging under cork closure sets the stage for exceptional development in the bottle.  Expect a plethora of character from dried spices, to citrus peel, baked pommes and dried flowers. Known for their longevity, our current batch of 2004 magnums are just beginning to leave their teenage years, with plenty of time to further evolve before their peak.   

Bollinger in stock now: 

Bollinger La Grande Annee Brut Champagne 2004 1.5L ($419.95) $379 special, 12 magnums in stock now 
Wine Enthusiast Cellar Selection 96 points  “A blend of 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay, this is opulent and full bodied, with toast and wood flavors. Rich and ripe, this beautiful wine is generous and still young, with just a touch of bitterness at the end. -Roger Voss.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts on weight in the bottle, as so many wines from this vintage have. Today, it is bright, linear and quite pretty. Green apples, pears and flowers all add lift on the close.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2004 Grande Année Brut was disgorged in November 2013 and offers a clear, very refined, and complex though still closed bouquet with fruity aromas of fresh and stewed apples, yellow grapefruit, kaki, walnuts, tobacco, herbal tea, nougat and spicy flavors; everything is discreet here, subtle, perfectly melted together and smoky, very smoky. On the palate, this Pinot Noir/Chardonnay blend wine is highly complex and elegant, firmly structured and quite long. This is an excellent Champagne.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Firm, with well-cut acidity and a fine texture, this is aromatic, delivering a skein of ground spice and graphite notes that mesh seamlessly with the flavors of black currant, black cherry, toasted almond, financier, honey and smoky mineral. Offers a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2024. 3,000 cases imported. — AN”

Bollinger La Grande Annee Brut Champagne 2007 750ML ($179.95) $159 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Wine & Spirits 95 points “While this wine seemed fully mature when we tasted it last year, the latest bottle to come across our tasting table was full of life, feeling concentrated and radiating energy out of its core. There’s a compressed floral spice and a touch of sweetness to the fruit that accommodates the mineral abrasion, the elements completely integrated, the flavors lasting for minutes. The blend is 70 percent pinot noir, mostly from Aÿ and Verzenay, with chardonnay from Cramant and Oger; 91 percent grows at grand-cru sites; all of it ferments in oak barrels. The wood is still present in the wine, rounding it, contributing to its sophistication. An exceptional 2007.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94+ points “From a bottle disgorged in March 2017, Bollinger’s 2007 La Grande Année is showing brilliantly, offering up a superb bouquet of lemon oil, confit citrus, almond paste, iodine, walnut oil and freshly baked bread. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad-shouldered and powerful in this frequently rather slender vintage, with excellent concentration, a deep and tightly wound core and a precise, chalky finish.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “A bright, lacy Champagne, offering a tapestry of finely woven flavors: graphite and ground spice, crushed blackberry and dried apricot, toast and honeycomb. Firm and focused, with a lasting, chalky finish. Drink now through 2027. 1,500 cases imported. — AN”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “I loved the 2007 La Grande Année, which is based on 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Over 90% of this cuvée was sourced from Grand Cru sites, with the balance from Premier Cru villages. Vinified all in older barrels and aged 6 years in bottle on lees, it boasts a deep, rich, creamy style as well as full-bodied notes of ripe stone fruits, wood smoke, and spice. It has vibrant acidity, impressive length, and notable purity, all making for a classy, impressive Champagne that will keep for 10-15 years.”

Bollinger arriving April 2022: 

Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut Champagne 2004 1.5L ($599.95) $519 pre-arrival special, only 6 magnums arriving 
Wine & Spirits 98 points “Time has graced this wine, proving the value of Bollinger’s policy of long aging on the lees followed by prompt release after disgorgement. This RD (Recently Disgorged) 2004 is a joyous wine, staunch, cold and powerful at first, transforming to fresh fruit shadowed by darker tones of barrel fermentation. As it opens in the glass, revealing racy energy, a range of floral pear and apple flavors emerge, resonant with a sense of limestone capturing the sun and reflecting it back in pale power. Enjoy this over the course of an evening as its presence shifts, providing varied perspectives on a great Champagne.”
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “Top 100 Cellar Selection in 2019. The wine’s name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028. -Roger Voss”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Bollinger’s 2004 R.D., tasted from magnum, is all class. Silky and understated, the R.D is super-expressive and inviting today. In 2004, the R.D. is decidedly light on its feet and more perfumed than tends to be the norm at Bollinger. Candied lemon peel, mint, apricot, pastry and yellow fruits are all laced together in a Champagne that delivers the goods. The 2004 is 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay picked between September 25 and October 8. Disgorged: November 21, 2017.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate  97 points “Fermented in oak barrels and aged under natural corks for almost 13 years, Bollinger’s 2004 R. D. Extra Brut blends 66% Pinot Noir with 34% Chardonnay from 16 crus, 88% of which are classified as Grand Cru. The wine opens with a very clear, deep, rich and aromatic but also pure and mineral-fresh nose of crushed rocks, cherries, brioche, pain aux raisin, white nougat, chalk and ripe, yellow-fleshed fruits. Highly elegant and complex on the weightless yet persistent and salty palate, this is an intense, densely woven, firmly structured yet elegant, beautifully refined and refreshing “recent disgorgement” (February 2018) that reveals just a kiss of oxidative flavors that adds even more complexity. A great Champagne on its way to improve over many years in the bottle. Tasted June 2018.”
Decanter 97 points “This is Bollinger’s 2004 interpretation of their famous barrel-aged, recently-disgorged Champagne. This time around it’s a blend of 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay, having received a dosage of 3g/l before being cellared under cork, unlike the usual practice of using a crown cap for this phase. A bouquet of raisins and spice jumps out of the glass, propelled by a magnificent mint-toned freshness. Tight and crystalline on the palate, it’s dense and yet not all that vinous in mouthfeel. The finish is one of ethereal lightness and magnificent balance. Drink with well-aged cheese. Drinking Window 2018 – 2030.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “The lovely nose of acacia blossom, toast and graphite leads to flavors of poached quince, fleur de sel, white cherry, lemon pith and almond skin in this dry and harmonious Champagne. Almost airy and ethereal in texture, yet the finely woven flavor range goes on and on, echoing on the finish. Disgorged June 2017. Drink now through 2034. 301 cases imported. — AN”
[Disgorgement date may vary from reviews]     

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 The Coin with two faces:
New Chateau Palmer arriving This March  

 

Priorat or Tarraconensis as it was once called has cultivated winegrapes since the Roman Empire first occupied the area, but it was Clos Erasmus and their collegues who transformed Priorat from sleepy backwater to a global wine powerhouse in the 1980’s and 90’s. Farming biodynamically since their inception Clos Erasmus has maintained very low production throughout the stratospheric rise of the region, and rarely exceeds 140 cases per year from their 25 acres in production. Limited does not begin to describe the scarcity of these wines, with these bottles being the crown jewel of wine lists around the world. 

Clos Erasmus Wines in stock now: 

Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus Priorat DOCa 2018 1.5L ($699.95) $579 special only 1 magnum in stock now
Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus Priorat DOCa 2018 750ML ($249.95) $219 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate Luis Gutierrez 99 points “A blend of 85% Garnacha and 15% Syrah, 2018 Clos Erasmus comes from a year with good yields and enough rain for good ripeness of the grapes. The vines are now 36 years old on average, and the grapes fermented after a cold soak in 1,000-, 1,500- and 2,000-liter oak vats with indigenous yeasts and a five-week maceration. It matured in new and second use Burgundian 228-liter oak barrels, with around 40% new oak. This is a very elegant and perfumed vintage for Clos Erasmus, a wine that reveals a bright ruby color and a exotic nose that mixes flowers with tons of sweet spices. It is still very young and influenced by the élevage in oak, with something herbal and fresh, reminiscent of pine needles. The palate is textured and velvety, lace and dust, with fine-grained tannins that bring back the memories of the slate rocks; it is pure and detailed and has terrible balance, focus, inner strength, filigree and subdued minerality. I’d wait a little bit for the oak to get integrated before pulling the cork. It has the ingredients, stuffing and balance to develop nicely in bottle for a long time. 3,319 bottles and 100 magnums produced. It was bottled in May 2020.”

Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus ‘Laurel’ Priorat DOCa 2018 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special, 4 magnums in stock now 
Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus ‘Laurel’ Priorat DOCa 2018 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The second wine here and one that is easier to drink, the 2018 Laurel was produced with fruit from the younger vines, a couple of barrels that are declassified from Clos Erasmus and the Cabernet Sauvignon, more or less 70% Garnacha and 15% each Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. It has good ripeness and still a pH of 3.3. It fermented mostly in oak vats and 2,000-liter concrete vats with indigenous yeasts and matured for 18 months in 20,000-liter oak and concrete vats, second use barriques and some clay amphorae. It’s a bright translucent ruby color and has a perfumed and delicate nose with notes of orange peel and flowers; this is the most elegant and ethereal vintage of Laurel as far as I can remember, with red rather than black fruit and a kind of cranberry quality. The palate is medium-bodied, textured and fluid, with subtleness, balance and very fine tannins. The oak is perfectly integrated, and the wine is easy to drink, approachable and very pleasurable right now. It’s a fresh vintage with energy and finesse, quite different from previous vintages. I love it. 22,825 bottles and 515 magnums produced. It was bottled in May 2020.”

 

Much like German wine in general, the Rheinhessen is in the midst of a wine renaissance. Being credited with the first traded vineyard in the entire country dating back to the house of Charlemagne in Holy Roman Empire era, the majority of the area was previously too cold to produce Riesling at a satisfying level of ripeness. As a result; the region became largely devoted to bulk wine production post-WW II (most notably the infamous Liebfraumilch). That is no longer the case for the areas production, with red grapes now making up a significant proportion and expected to grow as climate change continues. 

The best wines in the Rheinhessen have historically come from an area known as the Roter Hang (Red Slope) and have been compared to the terraces of Côte-Rôtie and the Mosel due to their steepness and distinctive soil. Composed of bright red slate, quartzite and veins of limestone that reflects and absorbs heat to assist in ripening, this is the “Grand Cru” of the Rheinhessen.

With the new generation of winemaking talent in the Rheinhessen, there have also been stellar examples coming from the surrounding hillside vineyards which are locally known as “Rheinterasse”. Because of the warmer growing conditions compared to neighboring areas, the styles of Riesling that come from the Rheinhessen feature rich, developed flavors. 

This level of ripeness combined with the terroir often presents like yellow, red or baked apples with additional notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, elderflower and hyacinth. Wines from the Roter Hang especially are famous for their crystalline and spice notes like sugared pineapple, candied ginger and anise.As a whole the Rheinhessen features medium body and lower acid, with soft and developed fruit character with a mineral finish.

Rheinhessen wines on sale now: 

Thorle Saulheimer Holle Riesling, Rheinhessen 2017 750ML ($44.95) Was $39, Now $33, 18 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott – Jamessuckling 96 points “Still youthful, but this has a complex stone-fruit nose. Concentrated and racy with great energy at the very long, chalky finish. Great aging potential. Drink or hold.”

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This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

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A wholly unique house in that they produce a single wine and only during the most exceptional growing years. Sourced from 20 parcels in the center of Le Mensil-Sur-Oger with their first vintage in 1905, this is one of the rarest wines in the entire world and the apex of Chardonnay, with razor sharp austerity requiring extensive bottle age before enjoyment. 

Each vintage is attributed with its own personality and showing. The house describes the vintage in 2012 as “The Smile, with all the beguiling and mystery of the Mona Lisa”. The vintage itself was remarkably cool throughout the season, until it wasn’t with heat waves and a warm fall season largely saving the vintage. The vintage has been compared to the legendary 2008 in that yields were exceptionally low with correspondingly intense flavors, and a cool enough start to ensure robust levels of acidity. 

Salon in stock now: 

Salon Cuvee ‘S’ Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne 2012 750ML ($1499.95) $1199 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Decanter 99 points “The Salon 2012 has scintillating aromatic brilliance and purity with seductive scents of white fruit, citrus zest and spring flowers capped by a touch of spice. With some air, pastry-like notes add to its complex yet elegant fragrance, which remains essentially citrussy in character. On the palate, it reverberates with kinetic energy coursing through its crystalline and elongated structure, making this vintage Champagne seem a bit atypical for Salon. Indeed, this edition is supremely elegant and subtle to a degree that surpasses those of other recent vintages. Salon 2012 is a racy thoroughbred that will go the distance without effort, a telltale sign being its chalk-infused yet airborne finish. In time, it will in all likelihood merit the ultimate accolade of a 100-point score. Dosage: 6g/L. Disgorged: March 2021. Drinking Window 2021 – 2050.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 98+ points “Back in 2014, Salon’s president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne” and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn’t be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, wet stones, freshly baked bread, white currants and oyster shell, it’s full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit, racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long and resonant finish, this is a structured and powerful Salon that’s a lot more incisive than, for example, the 2002 at the same stage, but which also carries more muscle and substance than a leaner vintage such as 2007. For readers that have balked at the pricing of the magnum-only 2008, the 2012 isn’t far off the latter’s level in quality, and will presumably be distributed more conventionally.”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2012 Salon is absolutely gorgeous. It offers a beguiling mix of radiance and energy that seems to capture a little bit of elements of some of its older siblings. The expression of fruit is radiant and quite overt, but without reaching the tropical exuberance of the 2006. In shape, the 2012 recalls the mid-weight style of 2007 with the freshness of 2008, but not quite the youthful austerity of that wine. If that sounds like an appealing combination, well it is. The 2012 Salon is all harmony and class.”

 

Have you ever heard of the varietal called Grolleau? Named after the black color the grapes develop as they ripen, it was the most popular rose in France for nearly a century both domestically and abroad. It was so famous as a style that it was codified in the original James Bond novel Goldfinger; with Bond preferring to drink it over Dom Perignon! 

Grolleau is still used to make rose today, usually in conjunction with its gray skinned mutation, Grolleau Gris. We can’t get enough of Mourat’s iteration, which is grown just 12 miles away from the Atlantic Ocean on the far western part of the Loire Valley called “Fiefs Vendeens”. This appellation is special not only for its historic patronage by Cardinal Richelieu, but also for having one of the highest percentages of certified organic and biodynamic vineyards in all of France.  

The appellation receives almost as much sunlight as Provence, with the temperature being mitigated by the ocean breeze from the Atlantic. These factors marry together to feature both ripe fruit notes like fresh melon, strawberries and peaches in addition to a lifted, peppery finish. The soils of the appellation are primarily quartzite with schist, creating a nuanced, mineral underpinning. Mourat is lucky enough to have a unique site that is predominantly purple schist, which further emphasizes a mineral driven spine in both his Rose and Red bottlings.  

The Ovni is a rare offering in that it is entirely composed of Grolleau Gris, in stark contrast to the rest of the appellation which are field blends. With an average vine age of 25 years old, this is a multidimensional rose that is applicable pretty much anytime, anywhere. We also carry another rose by Mourat, featuring a field blend of grapes that are traditional to the region. The rarest of his bottlings is his rouge, which is entirely sourced from 80 year old plantings of Negrette. Characterized by supple texture, dark fruited character and violet accentuations in the aromas this is definition of a “Sunshine red”  

Mourat wines arriving June 2022:

J. Mourat O.V.N.I. Rose IGP Val de Loire 2021 750ML ($21.95) $17 pre-arrival special 
100% Grolleau Gris

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J. Mourat Collection Rose, Fiefs Vendeens Mareuil  2021 750ML ($19.95) $16 pre-arrival special
Gamay, Cabernet Franc, Negrette & Pinot Noir      

J. Mourat Collection Rouge Fiefs Vendeens Mareuil 2020 750ML ($29.95) $24.50 pre-arrival special
80 year old Negrette vines

The 2016 vintage is legendary in Bordeaux, with Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast entitling his vintage summary “The Perfect Bordeaux?”. The vintage is often compared to her sister 2015 in terms of being consistently warm throughout the summer but with a luxuriously wet spring allowing for ample water supplies under the trademark gravel of the region.

Combined with a long and dry summer, Chateau Gloria was able to deliver exceptional purity, elegance and freshness in spades. After seeing the critical reception, we secured an allotment of magnums. As one of Bordeaux’s “Benchmark Producers” the chateau walks the line between tradition and modernity, combining hand harvesting with automatic pump-overs. Described as a lighter and more elegant expression when compared to other Left-Bank iterations, Chateau Gloria is known for being accessible in youth and with extensive aging. 

Chateau Gloria arriving April 2022:

Chateau Gloria Saint-Julien 2016 1.5L ($149.95) $135 pre-arrival special, 12 magnums arriving 
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2016 Gloria is one of the undisputed stars of this vintage. Rich, deep and explosive, the 2016 possesses tremendous intensity in all of its dimensions. Sweet red cherry, tobacco, menthol, licorice and dried rose petal all add complexity. In 2016 Gloria is a real head-turner. It should be a fabulous value as well. There is not much else to say.”
Neal Martin-Vinous 94 points “The 2016 Gloria is noticeably deeper in color than its peers. It has a charming bouquet of blackberry, briar, brown spices and touches of sandalwood, complex and developing loamy elements with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Quite mineral-driven, leading into a composed, precise finish that indicates careful winemaking from great terroir. Superb. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “This has a slightly chunky feel now, with bramble and tar notes jutting out a bit, but the core is saturated with cassis and blackberry fruit flavors and there’s fun energy throughout. Offers a lovely tug of sweet tobacco detail on the finish too. Just let this settle in the cellar. Best from 2024 through 2038. — JM”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “I was lucky enough to taste the 2016 Château Gloria on multiple occasions and it’s unquestionably the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, aged in 42% new French oak, its deep purple color is followed by a powerful, medium to full-bodied wine that has thrilling purity in its ripe black and blue fruits, tobacco, and graphite-laced aromas and flavors. Deep, layered, with ripe tannins and the purity and freshness that makes the vintage so special, this is a brilliant Gloria to drink over the coming 20+ years.”
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Gloria is comprised of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot aged 14 months in 42% new and 58% one-year-old French oak. Deep garnet-purple in color, it sings of plum preserves, warm cassis and dark chocolate with touches of tobacco, bay leaves and lavender with a waft of dusty soil. The palate is medium-bodied, elegant and savory in the mouth with loads of layers and a lifted finish.”
Decanter 93 points “Though it’s hardly under-the-radar, this unclassified château (one of the few in this appellation) consistently offers rich bright fruit , charm, and juicy generosity in a lighter, elegant St-Julien style, especially in top vintages like 2016. The plots that make up its vineyards were painstakingly acquired by the late Henri Martin and it’s now run by his daughter and son-in-law, along with fourth growth Château Saint-Pierre. The blend in 2016 is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot and aged in 40% new barrels. This was the first vintage made in a new winery, with 76 different-sized tanks, and it’s one of the best wines ever from Gloria. Drinking Window 2022 – 2040.”

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It’s no secret that we love Pinot Noir and Burgundian varietals as a whole here at Vinopolis. While Oregon holds our hearts, there’s something to be said about what our siblings in Aotearoa (New Zealand) are doing across the Pacific. 

North Canterbury has especially caught our eye with their reputation for cool-climate experimentation, and a hotbed of new winemaking talent. “The coolest little wine region in the country” as the region bills is home to clay-limestone soils that are a dead ringer for top tier Burgundy, and a climate particularly conducive to bright and ageworthy wines. Hermit Ram is taking the wine world by storm with their field blends and Pinot Noir, hybridizing traditional Burgundian practices with “New wave” techniques like low intervention in the cellar, amphora for fermentation and stem inclusion over new oak. 

The Pinot Noir is beautifully structured and derives its tannins entirely from skin, stems and seeds as opposed to new oak. This combined with the marginal growing conditions seen in North Canterbury creates a plethora of flavors ranging from Assamese black tea, fresh rhubarb, black raspberry, lavender and redcurrants. Beyond the fruit and floral components there is also a mineral component redolent of crushed stone and turned loam.  

Hermit Ram wines in stock now: 

The Hermit Ram Whole Bunch Zealandia Pinot Noir North Canterbury 2019 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special, 20 bottles in stock now
Winery Note: “This Pinot Noir comes from two vineyards, one a small close planted vineyard on the Omihi slopes and the other on the valley floor. The soil in Omihi is predominantly clay with bands of limestone and iron oxide, and the valley floor has glacial gravels with layers of silt and the odd bit of broken limestone dispersed throughout the profile. The clay parcel brings a richness and flesh to this wine whilst the gravel site adds spice and finesse. The use of whole bunches helps to add floral aromatics and length to balance out these textures and to knit the whole wine together. The structural elements and aroma gained from using whole bunches in Pinot Noir from North Canterbury also serves to promote longevity in the wine. It’ll make for fascinating drinking over the coming years. This wine has approximately 50% whole bunches in the ferment. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts. It underwent natural malolactic fermentation. It has no Sulphur added until bottling. It is unfined and unfiltered. 20 ppm SO2 Total.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

The Hermit Ram Field Blend Rose North Canterbury 2020 750ML ($44.95) $39 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Riesling/Pinot Noir/Cab Sauv/Gewurz
Winery note “The act of fermenting which ever varieties are planted in your vineyard together is intriguing and the results can be delicious and a really unique picture of a particular vineyard site and region. This wine is a field blend of Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Gewurztraminer. It comes from one of North Canterbury’s earliest planted vineyards. It presents itself like a delicate pinot with insane aromatics. The fruit was picked on the proportions it grows in the vineyard. It was destemmed and naturally fermented on skins for 6 weeks. Pressed off in to Amphora and allowed to go through a natural malolactic ferment. This wine was bottled with no fining, filtration or Sulphur.”
 

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The Hermit Ram Amphora Salty White North Canterbury 2020 750ML ($44.95) $38 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Julia Harding MW 17 points “Slightly cloudy very pale gold. Intensely citrus with a light herbal quality. Sour apricot and dried grasses are very subtle. This is complex, creamy, extremely salty. Great complexity and a lovely blend with nothing dominating. Dry, finely tannic, the best flavours of Sauvignon at the core, citrus and herbal and finally green fruits like greengage. Deep, long, salty, a wine for the evening. Good value. Drink 2021–2024”

Love Natural wine? We carry producers from around the world including Ovum, Daterra Lorenzo and Chateau Musar