Newsletter 5/29/23

 

Vinedos Paganos El Puntido Rioja Gran Reserva 2008 750ml $69 special, 19 bottles available
Wine Advocate 97 Points “I was greatly impressed by the 2008 El Puntido Gran Reserva, a wine with a more traditional profile than the majority of wines from the Eguren family. At age 14, the wine is glorious, still young and with a mixture of primary and more developed notes. It goes more in the direction of the old wines, with balsamic notes of incense and cedarwood, mushrooms and some berries and herbs. It’s complex and elegant, with fully resolved tannins. This was bottled back in May 2011, so it’s been in bottle for over a decade, and the texture shows it. It has 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.55. This matured in brand-new French oak barrels for 28 months, and the wine has absorbed the oak completely.”

Espectacle Del Montsant 2018 750ml $119 special, 17 bottles available
Wine Spectator 98 Points “As with other wines, I also tasted the 2018 Espectacle del Montsant next to the 2017 to catch up, as I last tasted the region some 16 months ago. 2018 was a cooler year of slow ripeness, and the grapes achieved an amazing 16% alcohol. The wine is truly spectacular, true to its name. It has tons of violet notes and aromatic herbs, the palate is gentler, and the tannins are rounder, polished and elegant. It has full body but isn’t heavy. There is a lot of complexity, and the wine developed slowly in the glass, showing nuances of cereals, kirsch, orange peel and lots of spices and herbs. It’s opulent and full, deep and complex. Amazing in its style. Some 6,500 bottles produced.”
 
Sierra Cantabria Finca El Bosque Rioja 2019 750ml $139 special, 12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 98 Points “The 2019 Finca el Bosque is another single vineyard and comes from a site on a deep, gravelly escarpment overlooking the Ebro River. It offers more ripe blue fruits and cassis as well as sappy herbs, flowers, violets, graphite, and chalky minerality. It shows a more elegant, flawlessly balanced, incredibly pure style on the palate, with ultra-fine tannins, wonderful overall balance, and no hard edges. This is pure class. Give bottles 3-4 years in the cellar and enjoy over the following two decades of more.

Terroir Al Limit Les Tosses Priorat 2014 750ml $219 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 98 Points “Already bottled in June 2016, slightly earlier as it usually spends two years in foudre to avoid excessive fatigue because of too much oxygen in the wine, the 2014 Les Tosses is pure Cariñena from an old vineyard on slate soils at some 650 meters altitude. There is none of the rusticity I often link to the grape, this is extremely floral and perfumed, with plenty of violets, a little earthy too. The palate is extremely balanced, and I don’t remember tannins as elegant as these in a Cariñena before. There is length, freshness and a very, very long finish. This might very well be the best vintage of Les Tosses so far. This wine feels very young and it’s a bit shy, but giving it time it is just amazing. It should be much better with a little more time in bottle. If you decide to pull the cork soon, make sure you give it some time to breathe. There are 1,946 bottles produced. The vineyard is almost two hectares, and Dominik Huber only used part of it for this bottling, and the rest goes to Torroja. But, his idea is to increase the volume so he’ll take longer to sell this vintage so he can keep the wine for one year longer in bottle before selling it. Smart thinking…”
 
Clos Erasmus Priorat 2019 750ml $228 special, 15 bottles available
Wine Advocate 98+ Points “The serious and powerful 2019 Clos Erasmus feels quite classical Priorat, with notes of graphite, black fruit and licorice; it’s a solid Priorat with weight, concentration and clout. There are still some smoke, toast and spice notes from the élevage—100% in barrel, some 40% of them new, for around 18 months—and the wine always needs a little bit of time in bottle. Despite the 15.5% alcohol, the wine comes through as balanced and with freshness, there is no heat or sensation of alcohol; you need the tannins and acidity to counterbalance the alcohol, and they are doing that here. This is more balsamic, aromatic and exuberant. It’s showy, hedonistic and rich, a solid Erasmus. The tannins are still quite present and need some more time to be resolved. 3,300 bottles were filled in May 2020.”

Bodegas Muga Aro 2019 750ml $349 special, 4 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 100 points “Pure magic, the 2019 Aro is 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano from a plant by plant selection of the Muga family’s oldest vines of Tempranillo, blended with a substantial portion of Graciano. This dense purple behemoth has a primordial bouquet of pure cassis, graphite, crushed stone, lead pencil, new leather, and hints of spring flowers. Building incrementally on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a huge mid-palate, and ripe, velvety tannins, this is one heavenly Rioja that deserves 7-8 years of bottle age and will age like a First Growth from Bordeaux. Hats off to the team at Muga for another incredible wine.”