In This Newsletter:
New to Our May Sale
New Review from Grapelive
New Reviews from Wine Advocate
Joe Czerwinski on the 2019 CDPs!
Montée de Tonnerre: Hill of Value
Chartogne-Taillet
Merfy’s Champagne Renaissance
Monopole Magic with Pousse d’Or
Burklin Wolf:
Profound Pfalz Rieslings
Collector’s Corner:
Andre Clouet’s Un Jour de 1911…
We’re Open for In-Store Shopping!
10AM – 6PM Daily
We also offer Curbside Pickup
Order Online / By Phone / By Email
New to Our May Sale
Drappier Carte d’Or Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) Was $38, Now $35, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Drappier Carte d’Or Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($299.95) was $219, Now $199 (that’s only $33.17/bottle!)
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 91 points “Disgorged in April 2021, Drappier’s new NV Brut Carte d’Or delivers attractive aromas of golden orchard fruit, stone fruit, honeycomb and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s charming and elegantly vinous, with a flavorful core of fruit, lively acids and a chalky finish.”
Wine Spectator 90 points “Racy acidity enlivens this crisp and lacy Champagne. Well-knit, with the delicate mix of ripe white cherry, blanched almond, yellow plum and grated ginger flavors. Drink now. 3,000 cases imported. — AN”
Disgorged 11/20
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Brut Millesime Champagne 2006 750ML ($219.95) Was $189, Now $169, 23 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The assemblage of the 2006 Louis XV Brut Millésimé is about the same as the 1995 and 1996—composed of 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from grand cru villages. The only difference is that the Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (10% of the assemblage) spent 12 months in oak barrels. Disgorged in January 2017 (dosage: six grams per liter), the 2006 has a golden color and opens with a deep, ripe, elegant and vinous bouquet with toasty and chalky lemon and fresh white fruit flavors. On the palate, this is an intense, round, fresh and complex Louis XV with great purity and finesse. The wine opens on the palate like a soufflé, coating the whole palate without any pressure or weight—gorgeous! This is a delicate and fresh yet well-structured and persistent Louis XV whose intense and long but weightless finish reveals lovely, almost juicy fruit concentration with perfectly integrated freshness and lasting minerality that seems to give additional structure. The 2006 shows a lot of Chardonnay features right now and drinks perfectly today; however, it can be kept under perfect conditions for decades. Just keep it in the box, because the bottle is white and nothing makes a Champagne age faster than exposure to daylight. (Tasted in November 2017 from Lot LL15067017BT.)-SR”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Brut Millesime Champagne 2008 750ML ($299.95) Was $249, Now $219, 15 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “This is really punchy and broad-shouldered with muscular structure and citrusy undertones. Full body. Lightly tannic and a fresh and vivid finish. This is the first vintage without malolactic fermentation ever. One for the cellar. Better in 2022.”
Wine Advocate 93+ points “The straw-yellow/white-golden colored 2008 Louis XV Brut Millésimé blends 50% Chardonnay (20 % from Avize, 15% from Oger and 15% from Mesnil) with 50% Pinot Noir (41.5% from Verzenay and 8.5% from Bouzy). Disgorged in January 2018 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2008 displays a clear, pure, fresh, chalky-tinged and vinous nose with lemon, white fruits, brioche, hazelnuts, white blossoms and some caramel notes. Pure, lean, fresh and elegant on the palate, with a lingering hazelnut flavor, this is a straight yet complex cuvée with grip and a long, well-structured and textured finish. This 2008 is still terribly fresh and should benefit from further bottle aging. For the moment, I am missing the mouth-filling generosity of the 2006 and 1995. Mind that this is the first vintage of de Venoge’s prestigious Louis XV where the base wines didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation! Total production: 10,326 bottles. Tasted October 2018.”
Poderi Aldo Conterno Conca Tre Pile Barbera d’Alba Piedmont 2017 750ML ($37.95) Was $33, Now $28, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Poderi Aldo Conterno Conca Tre Pile Barbera d’Alba Piedmont 2017 750ML ($419.95) Was $359, Now $299 (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Case-6 Poderi Aldo Conterno Conca Tre Pile Barbera d’Alba Piedmont 2017 750ML ($219.95) Was $189, Now $159 (that’s only $26.50/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2017 Barbera d’Alba Conca Tre Pile is piled high with dark fruit intensity, soft tannins and a pinch of fresh acidity that breaks apart the wine’s rich fruit flavors. The hot vintage has taken well to the Barbera grape, accentuating its volume, richness and generosity. The bouquet offers black fruit, dried plum, spice, truffle-infused earth and toasted hazelnut. Some 20,000 bottles were made.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($89.95) Was $75, Now $69, 26 bottles in stock now
Kerin O’keefe-Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Aromas of underbrush, pine forest, woodland berries and cedar form the enticing nose. Full-bodied and savory, the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, raspberry compote, star anise and cinnamon before closing on pipe tobacco notes. Tightly knit but refined tannins provide the backbone, while surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot vintage keeps it balanced. Drink 2024–2032.”
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “The 2017 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole is the darker fruited of the G.D. Vajra sites and has rounded floral aromatics of crushed roses, resin, and cranberry cocktail. The palate is ripe and inviting, with building structure and notes of fresh red cherry, blood orange, and clove. The warmth of the vintage is felt without sacrificing lift. Drink 2025-2050”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2017 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is classy and elegant to the core. Medium in body and wonderfully translucent, the 2017 captures all of the finesse of this site. Naturally, the 2017 also shows the ripeness of the year, but it retains its sublime sense of poise. The 2017 Bricco delle Viole is one of the clear stand outs of the year.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “The G.D. Vajra 2017 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is packed with medium dark cherry fruit and plum. The wine also shows a savory side, with spice, hazelnut cream, licorice and lightly fragrant potting soil. This vintage sits solid on the palate, wrapping thickly over the senses, thanks to its creamy, fruit-driven consistency and well-managed tannins. These vines are high in elevation, ranging from 400 to 480 meters in altitude. Those higher elevations are key to interpreting a vintage that saw heat such as this. Production is 15,000 bottles.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
G.D. Vajra ‘Coste di Rose’ Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($69.95) Was $56.50, Now $51.90, 36+ bottles in stock now
Kerin O’keefe-Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Wild berry, menthol and tilled earth aromas mingle with whiffs of dark spice. Linear and savory, the lithe palate is already immediate, featuring juicy raspberry, red cherry, crushed mint and star anise accompanied by taut, polished tannins. Tangy acidity keeps it fresh and bright.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “With fruit from higher-elevation vineyards in the village of Barolo, the 2017 Barolo Coste di Rose is quite elegantly downplayed and fragile. The wine reveals wild berry, cassis and lots of blue flower or lilac. A pretty mineral note recalls crushed limestone and is present through the long and polished mouthfeel. This wine overperforms, considering the challenges of this vintage that saw extreme weather, from spring frost to scorching summer temperatures. These vineyard sites performed better than most. Some 4,800 bottles were released.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2017 Barolo Coste di Rose has bright aromatics of candied raspberry, apricot, anise, and dusty earth. The palate is medium-bodied, with fine tannins and notes of dried wild strawberry, fresh roses, and mineral-rich earth. This wine is open and inviting, while maintaining freshness and drive. Drink 2024-2040.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
New Review from Grapelive
Vincent Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($24.95) $22.75 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Grapelive 91 points “The 2019s here at Vincent have proved to be lovely and charming wines, especially the Eola-Amity Pinot with its fresh, almost tangy dry profile and purity of flavors that highlight the vintage. [It] has a style that suits the fans of delicacy over richness. The palate is bright and tart with lots of cherry, red currant, strawberry and cranberry fruits to start, with this Eola-Amity Hills Pinot adding some depth and dimension with air and while lively the texture is supple and the wine reveals briar notes, spice, mineral tones, a subtle floral array and dried herbs. This year’s Eola-Amity Hills is a blend of barrels from Zenith, Bjornson and Silvershot vineyards, with the famed Zenith maybe providing the structure and soul in this delightful version. The Eola-Amity grapes, sourced from these top quality sites, set on marine sedimentary and volcanic soils, are carefully sorted and typically, but not always, get crushed and de-stemmed and then put into small fermenters. Any whole cluster lots, if used, (depends on the vintage) Vincent adds, get a classic pigeage, or foot treading, to get things moving and minimize any large air pockets that might be in the fermenter. The winery notes as well that the main lots of crushed grapes in the bins are then left alone for a spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts, usually this happens within a week or so. Only when enough CO2 is coming off the fermenter in earnest do the cellar team do the first punch downs, where they break up the forming cap of and push down grape matter at the top layer of the fermenter deeper into the juice to extract more flavor and color. The wine is aged in used French barriques and bottled unfiltered with very low SO2 to promote transparency, which this Pinot delivers nicely.
“Vincent winemaker, Vincent Fritzsche, started his small winery, located in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, back in 2009 with a focus on transparent and elegant Pinot Noirs, which are lighter and more vibrant than was the trend of the times. After some success with his stylish examples, Vincent now produces about 2,000 cases a year of mainly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but as added some very nice Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and a really exciting Gamay to his collection, which I reviewed recently here. Fritzsche says that he makes his wines in a low-input wine making style, borrowed from the old world, and sources his grapes from some incredible vineyards with several sustainably-farmed parcels from all around the Willamette Valley. All of Vincent’s offerings are small lot hand-crafted wines that, he adds, are made in a natural way without a lot of fuss. While known mainly for his collection of single vineyard Pinots, Vincent does also a basic regional Willamette Valley bottling as well as a couple of unique AVA versions, like this Eola-Amity Hills bottling. These wines, as seen with this effort, offer tons of value for the price and you should search these out … Fritzsche has a pretty good following and while still under the radar, Vincent is a label to watch. These value packed Vincent wines are all very authentic and raw, but exceptionally delicious, I recommend the Pinots highly, along with the Gamay and the whites, with the Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and a Pinot Gris Rosé being of interest too.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Joe Czerwinski on the 2019 CDPs!
“The two tiny vineyards for Chapelle St. Theodoric are owned by American importer Peter Weygandt, while the wines are made at Domaine de Cristia, with the hands-on work done by Baptiste Grangeon and his cellar team. The focus is on Grenache grown in the nearly pure sand terroirs of la Guigasse and le Grand Pin (part of Pignan). The bunches are fermented whole, with aging taking place in demi-muids, typically for two years. Occasionally, a third wine, Les Sablons, is produced, sometimes blended from declassified barrels of La Guigasse and/or Le Grand Pin, but the 2019 is from young vines in la Guigasse (planted in 2013).” –Joe Czerwinski, Wine Advocate
Chapelle Saint Theodoric Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Guigasse Rhone 2019 750ML ($89.95) $77 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Scents of roses, licorice and black cherries mark the nose of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape La Guigasse, an all-Grenache cuvée from a sandy site near Rayas. Fermented as whole clusters and aging in demi-muids, it’s full-bodied and richly concentrated yet still silky and fine, although I did detect a touch of warmth on the peppery-spicy finish.”
Chapelle Saint Theodoric Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Guigasse Rhone 2019 750ML ($89.95) $77 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Scents of roses, licorice and black cherries mark the nose of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape La Guigasse, an all-Grenache cuvée from a sandy site near Rayas. Fermented as whole clusters and aging in demi-muids, it’s full-bodied and richly concentrated yet still silky and fine, although I did detect a touch of warmth on the peppery-spicy finish.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Chapelle Saint Theodoric Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Grand Pin Rhone 2019 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 96-98 points “The fabulous 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Grand Pin features complex pine and floral nuances that perfectly complement its ripe black-cherry fruit notes. Full-bodied, lush and creamy-textured, this is wonderfully expansive and mouthfilling without being weighty, and it finishes with tremendous length, echoing with complex notes of cola and Campari-like spices.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Chapelle Saint Theodoric Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Sablons Rhone 2019 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 89-91 points “The 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape les Sablons comes from young vines (planted in 2013) in La Guigasse. Those grapes were kept separate and are being aged in older barrels. There’s a bit of lifted character on the nose, plus herbal-stemmy notes and ripe black cherries, black olives and dark chocolate. Full-bodied and powerful (around 16% alcohol, according to the winemaker, Baptiste Grangeon), the tannins remain lush and silky on the finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Domaine de Ferrand Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 750ML ($64.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Domaine de Ferrand Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 750ML ($389.95) $333 special (that’s only $55.50/bottle!)
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 92+ points “An assemblage of 85% Grenache and bits of Bourboulenc, Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah, Ferrand’s tank-aged 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape features attractive notes of star anise, roses, lavender and ripe cherries. It’s full-bodied, rich, concentrated and rather extracted and tannic—give it a few years in the cellar.”
Domaine de la Charbonniere Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 750ML ($44.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 91 points “A classic assemblage of 70% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre and Syrah, the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape offers notes of ripe cherries and brown sugar on the nose. Aged mainly in wooden vats, but with smaller amounts in foudre, tank and used barrels, it’s full-bodied and silky textured, fine and elegant, not overly rich or concentrated, just an easy-drinking, delicious wine for early consumption.”
Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rhone 2019 750ML ($419.95) $333 special (that’s only $55.50/bottle!)
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 92+ points “Charvin’s gorgeously aromatic 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape—sourced from the sectors of Cabrières (Nord) and Maucoil—features scents of lavender, garrigue and purple raspberries. In the mouth, it’s full-bodied and concentrated, with ample, ripe tannins, then seems a bit warm and rough, with a wooly-tannic finish. Give this tank-aged blend of 82% Grenache, 5% each Mourvèdre and Syrah and 4% each Counoise and Vaccarèse a few more years to come together and settle down.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Rhone 2017 750ML ($119.95) $75 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Rhone 2017 2017 750ML ($499.95) $426 special (that’s only $71/bottle!)
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 97 points “Another fine showing, from a wine that has seemingly yet to go through a closed phase, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes—45% each Grenache and Mourvèdre, plus 10% Syrah—exudes scents of chocolate, mocha and dark fruit. Full-bodied, concentrated and velvety in the mouth, it’s nonetheless deceptively easy to drink, finishing long and mouthwatering.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Montée de Tonnerre: Hill of Value
Looking for Grand Cru Chablis but want to pay Premier Cru pricing?
Much like her sister Burgundy, the vineyards of Chablis can have Premier and Grand Cru sites within a stone’s throw of one another. Also like in Burgundy you can have one producer’s row of grapevines average in the hundreds of dollars per bottle, with the next producer being a fraction of that within same vineyard. The differences are usually minor, especially in light of climate changes effect’s on viticulture.
The Montée de Tonnerre is one such example, with an ancient Roman road dividing the vineyard from the Grand Cru Blanchot. When comparing the two vineyards you find that Blanchot produces the lighter and less fruit driven wine than those of Montée de Tonnerre which exhibits more ripeness as a result of the greater sun exposure. Both vineyards feature layers of fossilized seashells and white clay, with Blanchot’s name being derived from the name “White hill”. If you’re a fan of Chablis that’s weightier and more textured than the Montée de Tonnerre is for you, especially in the hands of Samuel Billaud.
Samuel Billaud Montee de Tonnerre Chablis Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 26 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 92 points “The 2016 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, which underwent 15 months in barrel, has a lovely dried honey and beeswax scented bouquet that gains intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant with a tangy, saliva-inducing saline finish that feels very persistent. Excellent.”
Neal Martin – Wine Advocate 90-93 points “The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre comes from two parcels, one in the titular vineyard and the other in Chapelot, not far from Raveneau. It has quite a stern, focused, flinty bouquet that needs coaxing from the glass. The palate is (again) well balanced with a fine line of acidity. There are subtle notes of white peach and orange zest in situ, although perhaps not quite exuding the persistence of the Mont de Milieu on the finish. Still, this will merit three or four years in bottle.”
Much like her sister Burgundy, the vineyards of Chablis can have Premier and Grand Cru sites within a stone’s throw of one another. Also like in Burgundy you can have one producer’s row of grapevines average in the hundreds of dollars per bottle, with the next producer being a fraction of that within same vineyard. The differences are usually minor, especially in light of climate changes effect’s on viticulture.
The Montée de Tonnerre is one such example, with an ancient Roman road dividing the vineyard from the Grand Cru Blanchot. When comparing the two vineyards you find that Blanchot produces the lighter and less fruit driven wine than those of Montée de Tonnerre which exhibits more ripeness as a result of the greater sun exposure. Both vineyards feature layers of fossilized seashells and white clay, with Blanchot’s name being derived from the name “White hill”. If you’re a fan of Chablis that’s weightier and more textured than the Montée de Tonnerre is for you, especially in the hands of Samuel Billaud.
Samuel Billaud Montee de Tonnerre Chablis Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 26 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 92 points “The 2016 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, which underwent 15 months in barrel, has a lovely dried honey and beeswax scented bouquet that gains intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant with a tangy, saliva-inducing saline finish that feels very persistent. Excellent.”
Neal Martin – Wine Advocate 90-93 points “The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre comes from two parcels, one in the titular vineyard and the other in Chapelot, not far from Raveneau. It has quite a stern, focused, flinty bouquet that needs coaxing from the glass. The palate is (again) well balanced with a fine line of acidity. There are subtle notes of white peach and orange zest in situ, although perhaps not quite exuding the persistence of the Mont de Milieu on the finish. Still, this will merit three or four years in bottle.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Chartogne-Taillet
Merfy’s Champagne Renaissance
Merfy’s Champagne Renaissance
Alexandre Chartogne is single handedly credited with reviving the reputation of his home village of Merfy. Located just northwest of Riems in the Massif de Saint-Thierry, Alexandre Chartogne took over his family’s 28 acres in 2006 after apprenticing under legendary Champenois, Jacques Selosse. At its peak acclaim in the Middle Ages, there were more grapevines planted in Merfy than the entire Marne region of Champagne thanks to the local monks.
Alexandre instituted organic farming methods, horse plowing and restorative cover crops, while phasing out all chemical based inputs on the estate. Call it technical skill, or exceptional farming either way his entry level easily hits at a $75-$100 price point.
Comprised of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a splash of Pinot Meunier from his estate holdings, there is a full spectrum of Citrus, Mashed quince, Golden Apple and a finish that is savory and salty, redolent of yellow miso.
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Ste Anne, Champagne NV 750ML ($51.95) $44 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
John Gilman 90+ Points “The current release of Alexandre Chartogne’s Cuvée Ste. Anne non-vintage Brut is from the base year of 2017. The vins clairs were raised in a combination of both stainless steel and oak and the wine was not bottled up for secondary fermentation until July of 2018. The cépages is its customary blend of nearly equal parts of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier and the wine was disgorged in February of 2020, with a finishing dosage of just over five grams per liter. The wine offers up a vibrant bouquet of apple, white peach, a fine base of soil tones, brioche, gentle smokiness and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a good core, elegant bubbles, fine balance and grip and a long, zesty and quite classy finish. This seems a touch longer on the backend to me than the last couple of iterations of this bottling that I have tasted and is first class, non-vintage Brut. But, this is still a fairly young wine and I would be inclined to give it some bottle age to let it start to blossom properly. 2022-2040.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 90 Points “The latest release of Chartogne’s NV Brut Sainte Anne is based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by 40% reserve wines. Disgorged in September 2020 with five grams per liter dosage, it opens in the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, white flowers and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s elegantly textural, bright and precise, with a seamless, harmonious profile.”
Importer note “60% 2017 base, 40% from 2016 & 2015.” Disgorgement date may vary from reviews.
We carry a number of grower producers including Remy, Georges Laval and Waris Larmandier!
Alexandre instituted organic farming methods, horse plowing and restorative cover crops, while phasing out all chemical based inputs on the estate. Call it technical skill, or exceptional farming either way his entry level easily hits at a $75-$100 price point.
Comprised of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and a splash of Pinot Meunier from his estate holdings, there is a full spectrum of Citrus, Mashed quince, Golden Apple and a finish that is savory and salty, redolent of yellow miso.
Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Ste Anne, Champagne NV 750ML ($51.95) $44 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
John Gilman 90+ Points “The current release of Alexandre Chartogne’s Cuvée Ste. Anne non-vintage Brut is from the base year of 2017. The vins clairs were raised in a combination of both stainless steel and oak and the wine was not bottled up for secondary fermentation until July of 2018. The cépages is its customary blend of nearly equal parts of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier and the wine was disgorged in February of 2020, with a finishing dosage of just over five grams per liter. The wine offers up a vibrant bouquet of apple, white peach, a fine base of soil tones, brioche, gentle smokiness and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a good core, elegant bubbles, fine balance and grip and a long, zesty and quite classy finish. This seems a touch longer on the backend to me than the last couple of iterations of this bottling that I have tasted and is first class, non-vintage Brut. But, this is still a fairly young wine and I would be inclined to give it some bottle age to let it start to blossom properly. 2022-2040.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 90 Points “The latest release of Chartogne’s NV Brut Sainte Anne is based on the 2017 vintage, complemented by 40% reserve wines. Disgorged in September 2020 with five grams per liter dosage, it opens in the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, white flowers and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s elegantly textural, bright and precise, with a seamless, harmonious profile.”
Importer note “60% 2017 base, 40% from 2016 & 2015.” Disgorgement date may vary from reviews.
We carry a number of grower producers including Remy, Georges Laval and Waris Larmandier!
Monopole Magic with Pousse d’Or
Based in the Burgundian powerhouse of Volnay is Pousse D’Or, a merchant producer in possession of 3 monopole vineyards in addition to their other holdings. This makes them the sole producers of wines from these vineyards, with the Clos Des 60 Ouvrees being the most exceptional. Formerly part of the original Domaine Romanée-Conti estate, it neighbors Meursault and has an average vine age of 56 years old. Farmed biodynamically for over a decade and blessed with almost pure limestone soil this is a bottling for only the most serious Burgundy collectors.
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or En Cailleret Clos des 60 Ouvrees Volnay Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($149.95) $128 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 91-93 points “Bright ruby-red. Expressive, scented nose combines blackberry, spices, violet and lavender pastille. At once supple and vibrant on the palate, conveying serious density of texture and juicy flavors of black fruits and spices. This wine stands out for its intensity and inner-mouth perfume. Finishes ripe and chewy, with excellent length. A very strong performance for a cool spot in a warm year.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées has an elegant bouquet with perfumed, violet-tinged black and red fruit, well defined with touches of brown spice and iris emerging with time. This shows a pleasing restraint. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red and black fruit on the entry, well-judged acidity, then toughening up a little toward a structured and almost Pommard-like finish that suggests that it will need several years in bottle.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Burklin Wolf:
Profound Pfalz Rieslings
Does Germany have growing regions other than cool climate? The Pfalz and her 1800 hours of sunshine during the growing season would make a strong argument for just that. Closer to Strasbourg than Berlin; the Pfalz is nestled between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River in a veritable oasis of forests and hills. Archeological records show that the district was one of the first areas in the entire world to have widespread consumption and production of wine, dating back to 550 B.C.E.
The beneficial growing conditions make for some of the most interesting and diverse expressions of German wine, with Riesling still being the crown jewel. The warmer average temperature creates Rieslings with less acidity and concentrated fruit flavors like apricot, mango and nectarine. Aromas usually feature a headier and effusive quality in comparison to other regions that brings to mind daffodils, yarrow and lilies. Burklin Wolf is no exception, with their family holdings dating back to 1597 and historically matching Burgundy in price. Much like the rest of the Pfalz their specialty has been in drier styles with the current generation of owners focusing exclusively on the category. Their vineyards could not be more suited for this production style, producing Rieslings with a structure you rarely see.
The 2017 Trockens demonstrate a compelling richness that’s tempered by a botanical character speaking to its cooler growing conditions. With medium body and acid, the most standout feature is the exceptionally long finish evocative of yellow miso, honeycrisp apple skin and honeysuckle flower. Primary aromas are firmly fruit and floral based, giving a full bouquet ranging from marigolds, apple blossom and dandelion flower with an underscoring of flint. These characteristics are mirrored when tasting, with Cortland apple, Meyer lemon and lemongrass standing out amongst flinty minerality. The juxtaposition between fruit and botanical notes make this highly compatible with vegetable based cuisine like pesto, steamed greens, or bok choy.
Burklin Wolf wines in stock now:
Dr. Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Altenburg P.C. Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2017 ($39.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 92 points “Piquant notes of apple and citrus pith mingle on the nose with crushed stone and struck flint, suggesting this interpretation of Altenburg will likely reflect the austerity and rigor of its gravelly soil and coolest of all Bürklin-Wolf microclimates. On top of that, I suspect this wine is suffering the most from its recent bottling of any Bürklin’s vintage 2017 P.C.’s. Even so, the site’s character is irrepressible. The firm palate musters more than enough primary juiciness to guarantee refreshment, and its piquant, pithy combination of hickory nut, lemon seed and stone carries into a mouthwateringly saline, formidably gripping, practically mouth-shaking finish. Give this time! (It already responds well to a good shaking.)”
The beneficial growing conditions make for some of the most interesting and diverse expressions of German wine, with Riesling still being the crown jewel. The warmer average temperature creates Rieslings with less acidity and concentrated fruit flavors like apricot, mango and nectarine. Aromas usually feature a headier and effusive quality in comparison to other regions that brings to mind daffodils, yarrow and lilies. Burklin Wolf is no exception, with their family holdings dating back to 1597 and historically matching Burgundy in price. Much like the rest of the Pfalz their specialty has been in drier styles with the current generation of owners focusing exclusively on the category. Their vineyards could not be more suited for this production style, producing Rieslings with a structure you rarely see.
The 2017 Trockens demonstrate a compelling richness that’s tempered by a botanical character speaking to its cooler growing conditions. With medium body and acid, the most standout feature is the exceptionally long finish evocative of yellow miso, honeycrisp apple skin and honeysuckle flower. Primary aromas are firmly fruit and floral based, giving a full bouquet ranging from marigolds, apple blossom and dandelion flower with an underscoring of flint. These characteristics are mirrored when tasting, with Cortland apple, Meyer lemon and lemongrass standing out amongst flinty minerality. The juxtaposition between fruit and botanical notes make this highly compatible with vegetable based cuisine like pesto, steamed greens, or bok choy.
Burklin Wolf wines in stock now:
Dr. Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Altenburg P.C. Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2017 ($39.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 92 points “Piquant notes of apple and citrus pith mingle on the nose with crushed stone and struck flint, suggesting this interpretation of Altenburg will likely reflect the austerity and rigor of its gravelly soil and coolest of all Bürklin-Wolf microclimates. On top of that, I suspect this wine is suffering the most from its recent bottling of any Bürklin’s vintage 2017 P.C.’s. Even so, the site’s character is irrepressible. The firm palate musters more than enough primary juiciness to guarantee refreshment, and its piquant, pithy combination of hickory nut, lemon seed and stone carries into a mouthwateringly saline, formidably gripping, practically mouth-shaking finish. Give this time! (It already responds well to a good shaking.)”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Dr. Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2017 ($24.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
James Suckling 92 points “Slightly funky (from wild ferment) but also great citrus, pear and peach aromas. Good concentration for a village wine with quite a linear profile. Very clean finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Collector’s Corner:
Andre Clouet’s Un Jour de 1911…
Did you know that Tête de Cuvee’s can also be non-vintage? While it’s true that non-vintage bottlings are every champenois “Bread and butter” there can still be top offerings made from the style. Often done from an artistic decision rather than economic, Clouet cites blending masters Laurent Perrier and Krug for the inspiration behind the cuvee. Taking the concept of using assemblage to create “A perfect year” within the bottle and combining it with a solera of reserve wines is how Clouet has melded the two styles and has clearly succeeded.
Andre Clouet crafts their 1911 cuvee from the 10 best plots in their portfolio in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. The village shares borders with 3 other Grand Cru villages and specialized in powerfully structured Pinot Noir. As such, the 1911 is entirely Pinot Noir and exemplifies the village’s reputation beautifully. Comprised of a single vintage that’s at least 7 years old and a solera based reserve wine that was started in 1998, this is champagne that encapsulates both maturity and youthful vigor. Complex doesn’t begin to cover this wine with the solera aging for the reserve wine portion adding incredible nuance like white truffle, rose petal, ground coffee, and miso to the flavor profile. The aromas are equally compelling, delivering a spectrum of white flowers like jasmine and orange blossom against a chalky backdrop.
In stock and available now:
Andre Clouet Un Jour de 1911 Champagne, NV 750ML ($99.95) $74.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “[Review is for a prior disgorgement] The NV Grand Cru Cuvee 1911 emerges from the glass with the most haunting of perfumes. Sweet rose petal and jasmine are some of the nuances that emerge over time. Despite recent disgorgement, the purity of the fruit and the extraordinary elegance of the mousse are hard to miss. This is an exceptional, elegant version of the 1911 that should drink beautifully for years to come. The bottle I tasted needed quite a bit of air to open up, so readers should be patient with the wine at this stage.”
Andre Clouet crafts their 1911 cuvee from the 10 best plots in their portfolio in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. The village shares borders with 3 other Grand Cru villages and specialized in powerfully structured Pinot Noir. As such, the 1911 is entirely Pinot Noir and exemplifies the village’s reputation beautifully. Comprised of a single vintage that’s at least 7 years old and a solera based reserve wine that was started in 1998, this is champagne that encapsulates both maturity and youthful vigor. Complex doesn’t begin to cover this wine with the solera aging for the reserve wine portion adding incredible nuance like white truffle, rose petal, ground coffee, and miso to the flavor profile. The aromas are equally compelling, delivering a spectrum of white flowers like jasmine and orange blossom against a chalky backdrop.
In stock and available now:
Andre Clouet Un Jour de 1911 Champagne, NV 750ML ($99.95) $74.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “[Review is for a prior disgorgement] The NV Grand Cru Cuvee 1911 emerges from the glass with the most haunting of perfumes. Sweet rose petal and jasmine are some of the nuances that emerge over time. Despite recent disgorgement, the purity of the fruit and the extraordinary elegance of the mousse are hard to miss. This is an exceptional, elegant version of the 1911 that should drink beautifully for years to come. The bottle I tasted needed quite a bit of air to open up, so readers should be patient with the wine at this stage.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!