Saturday, March 7th, 2015
Muller-Catoir – Pfalz, Germany
Muller-Catoir has remained a family owned business since 1744, and now currently in their 9th generation, this historic Pfalz estate is run by Philipp David Catoir. About 50 acres of purely estate grown fruit are dominated by Riesling vines, with tiny parcels situated in some of the most optimal locations within Pfalz, lying in a variety of soils that truly express the versatility of this grape.
In 2007, the estate began a conversion towards strict organic vineyard practices, completing their first official organic vintage in 2009. In the cellar, controlled practices of gentle crushing, long skin contact, followed by slow gentle pressing and warmer than customary fermentation temperatures are done in stainless steel.
“Vines were grown by natural methods with organic fertilization, permanent green cutting that gets more and more radical every summer, and ever-greater selective harvesting with hand-picking of grapes for even the most “basic” Kabinett wine – all these measures cannot help but produce only a small yield of wines with a mineral note, a filigree acidity structure and exotic fruit aromas.” –Philipp David Catoir
Part of the estate vineyards lie within the areas of Haardt, Mussbach, and Mandelgarten, with individual parcels and their various soils showing their distinctive complexities; primary rock (urgestein), yellow mottled sandstone, weathered sandstone gravel combined with layers of loess and alluvium, and gravel deposited during the last ice age.
Exclusively owned by Muller-Catoir and carefully preserved throughout the centuries, ‘Breumel in den Mauern’ is located in the uppermost section and is considered the best parcel of the Burgergarten in, due to its proximity to the Palatinate forest. These deep soils consist of pure mottled sandstone gravel, with a high ratio of decomposed stone.
These wines are truly expressive of the Pfalz region and its pockets of parcels, situated in prime locations for viticulture in Southwest Germany. History and family tradition are definitive of Muller-Catoir, who has continued to showcase their wines, true to their nature.
Muller-Catoir Wines Available Here Now
Muller-Catoir Haardt Scheurebe 2011 750ML ($37.95) $27 special, 7 bottles available
VinopolNote: Scheurebe is one of the most successful German grape crossings, producing a white wine that shows aromas of blackcurrants, herbs, fresh citrus and white flowers. It is a cross of Riesling and an unknown varietal, mislabeled as Silvaner.
Terry Theise notes: “Sandier and more granular than usual – probably from bottling- and while a still admirable and solid everyday dry Riesling, I expect its usual fruity citricity to emerge as the wine recovers.”
The next best price is $17.98
The average price is $20/bottle
The next best price is $24.99
Terry Theise notes: “Typical aromas with the lime oil notes of their `12s; incisive and detailed; the palate is charming in a verbena-chartreuse style, with notes of wild vineyard peaches (a.k.a. “pêch de vigne”); it’s certainly a wine-with-sweetness, and Philip Catoir and I talked a little about reducing the sweetness on these types of wines in general – but the wine’s not at all unbalanced. I am, but the wine is fine.”
The next best price is $28.99
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “($50) Spicy bouquet offers scents of papaya, pineapple and lemon grass. The sweet tropical fruit flavors and creamy texture are nicely interwoven, with just enough acidity to keep this wine fresh. With appealing length, this is a surprisingly elegant spätlese from the Pfalz.”
The next best price is $43.99!
Wine Spectator 92 points “A minerally white, offering concentrated acidity to its juicy flavors of fresh-cut apple, honeysuckle and lime. Presents sea salt hints midpalate, accented by lip-smacking citrusy notes. Pure, crisp and engagingly dry on the finish. Drink now through 2019.”
The average price is $28/bottle
Wine Spectator 93 points “Ripe, rich and powerful, with flavors of Key lime pie, apple tart and grapefruit, offering an impressive array of spicy notes. Slate and sea salt details flood the vibrantly crisp and juicy finish. Drink now through 2019.”
FRANCE-BORDEAUX
Chateau Le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol 2010 750ML ($199.95) Was $99, Now $69, 8 bottles available
Robert Parker 95 points “Michel and Dany Rolland’s flagship estate, Bon Pasteur, turned out an atypically powerful wine in 2010. It boasts a dense ruby/purple color, great fruit on the attack, mid-palate and finish, super freshness for its size, full-bodied power and lots of mulberry, caramel, mocha, earth and graphite characteristics. Give this beauty 5-7 years of cellaring (unusual for a Bon Pasteur) and drink it over the following 25 years.” WA
The next best price is $74.94
James Suckling 96 points “Ripe raspberries and blueberries with hints of fresh flowers. Deep nose of dark fruits. Full body, with silky tannins and a beautifully integrated tannin structure. It`s long and very refined. Better than 2009. Try in 2018.”
The average price is $99
Wine Advocate 98 points “Deep plum/purple, Haut-Bailly’s 2010 required some coaxing to appreciate its subtle notes of barbecue smoke, lead pencil shavings and creme de cassis as well as its touches of pomegranate and forest floor. The oak is pushed far into the background and the tannins are extremely silky, but the intensity of the wine is profound and the finish lingers for close to 55 seconds. This wine is ripe yet delicate, powerful yet stylish, and essentially resembles a remarkable fashion design from a house of haute couture. This wine needs a good 7-8 years of bottle age and should keep for 40-50+ years.” WA
The average price is $191
Robert Parker 100 points “One of the more flamboyant and sumptuous wines of the vintage, this inky/purple-colored St.-Julien reveals thrilling levels of opulence, richness and aromatic pleasures. A soaring bouquet of creme de cassis, charcoal, graphite and spring flowers is followed by a super-concentrated wine with silky tannins, stunning amounts of glycerin, a voluptuous, multilayered mouthfeel and nearly 14% natural alcohol. Displaying fabulous definition for such a big, plump, massive, concentrated effort, I suspect the tannin levels are high even though they are largely concealed by lavish amounts of fruit, glycerin and extract. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040” RP
FRANCE-BURGUNDY
Domaine Faiveley Aux Vignerondes, Nuits-Saint-Georges 2009 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 14 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “Here the fruit runs towards the blue side of the spectrum with aromas of blue berry, plum and violets that is in keeping with the extremely rich and mouth coating medium weight flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel even though the tannins that surface on the balanced, long and serious finish are rather firm.” BH
Stephen Tanzer—Vinous Media 90-92 points “Good bright, dark red. Deep aromas of black raspberry, minerals, smoke and flowers, along with notes of licorice and dark chocolate; ripe and sexy. A step up in density and finesse of texture from the Chaignots, offering good acid spine to its wild dark fruit flavors. Quite dry and uncompromising today, finishing bright and long, with serious tannins and a juicy character. A very good showing.” ST
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Fichet’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Referts is wonderfully finessed and focused, yet also has a fabulous sense of mid-palate pliancy. White and yellow stone fruits, mint, slate and a hint of spice all come together in a gorgeous wine loaded with class. The seamless, textured finish is particularly of note. The 2011 is likely to be an early drinking wine, but it is beautiful.” AG
Stephen Tanzer 91+ points “Palish red. Redcurrant, cherry, spices, minerals and a whiff of game on the nose. Sweet, silky and fairly deep, offering a fine-grained texture and very good energy and intensity to its red fruit flavors. This juicy, bright premier cru relies as much on its acids as on its tannins for balance and structure. Finishes subtle and long. Half of these vines were replanted in 1986 following the 1985 frost, and so this wine has been getting better and better in recent vintages, noted Gregory Gouges.” ST
Burghound 89-92 points “Reduction. This is also quite supple and relatively forward but the middle weight flavors retain good delineation and excellent complexity on the persistent finish. This is presently on the tangy side though I attribute this more to the presence of substantial amounts of gas rather than under ripe phenolics. This should amply reward 10 to 12 years of cellar time.”BH
Burghound 94 points “A distinctly cool and ultra-elegant nose of restrained and exceptionally fresh mineral-infused red pinot fruit gives way to stone-inflected, tightly focused and delineated middle weight plus flavors that are beautifully tension-filled. This possesses a beguiling personality as there’s real verve and punch on the delicious but linear finish where more minerality surfaces. This strikingly persistent effort is not only classy but seriously lovely as the sense of harmony is second to none in this group. Moreover, because this is a wine of refined power, it could actually be enjoyed now though it seems a shame to waste so much upside potential.” BH
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points “Good bright dark red. Wonderful mineral tang lifts the complex aromas of raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, coffee, pepper and spices. Fat, sweet and deep, with the piquant minerality and a peppery element giving lift and energy to the middle palate. Notes of candied strawberry and raspberry are complicated by saline soil tones. Powerfully structured wine with long, bright finishing flavors that saturate the sides of the mouth.”ST
The average price is +$199
Wine Spectator 94 points “The cherry, raspberry, earth, spice, and mineral flavors are offset by the smoky oak and solid tannins in this well-defined red. Vibrant and long, offering oak spice and mineral on the finish. This should develop beautifully. Best from 2016 – 2035.” WS
The average price is $234
Wine Spectator 95 points “Butter, floral and spice aromas and rich peach and melon flavors come together with the creamy texture in this intense and opulent white. Harmonious and expressive, but this will be even better in two to three years. Offers a lingering, complex aftertaste, where a mineral element emerges. Best from 2016 through 2027.” WS
The average price is $256
Stephen Tanzer 94+ points “Medium red. Complex but youthfully reticent nose offers cherry, raspberry, minerals and sexy smoky oak. Juicy, silky and deep, with lovely flesh and restrained sweetness to the tangy redcurrant and spice flavors. Very well-judged use of new oak here. A building note of orange zest adds lift to the middle palate. Finishes silky, suave and long, with noble tannins. With 48 hours in the recorked bottle, this continued to show a wonderfully layered mouth feel while avoiding the peppery aspect displayed by many examples from this vintage. I’d love to try this next to the Chapelle in ten years.” ST
The average price is $308
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good medium red. Raspberry, redcurrant and strong spicy oak on the nose. Densely packed but a bit youthfully rough today, with raspberry and spicy oak flavors framed by sound acidity and substantial dusty tannins. Plenty of breadth and energy here but this grand cru will need at least a couple more years to harmonize in bottle.” ST
The average price is $126
John Gilman 95+ points “The 2009 Jadot Montrachet (which hails from the Chassagne side of the vineyard, by the way) is also exceptional. The nose offers up a great and compelling mélange of apple, white peach, lemon, great minerality, floral tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and superbly structured, with a rock solid core of fruit, beautiful focus and balance, impeccable grip and a very long, racy and refined finish. A wonderful bottle of wine. 2020-2050” JG
The average price is $494
Stephen Tanzer 94-97 points “Medium red. Reticent but pristine aromas of cranberry, raspberry and clove oil, plus an exhilarating suggestion of candied fruit. Superconcentrated, silky and utterly seamless; wonderfully spherical wine with great fruit intensity and complexity and a pungent crushed stone element. Combines a texture of liquid velvet with an almost magically light touch. Finishes with noble tannins and great length and grip. Even sweeter on the finish than the Amoureuses. Great wine in the making.” ST
The next best price is $479
FRANCE-RHONE
Cave Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Madiniere 2009 750ML ($109.95) $89 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Offers a grippy edge from the start, with briar, pepper and smoldering tobacco notes framing the core of dark plum, fig sauce and blackberry fruit. The long, structured finish echoes with violet and sweet tapenade, with nicely riveted acidity. Best from 2012 through 2022.” WS
FRANCE-JURA
Jean Francois Ganevat ‘Sul Q’ NV 375ML ($99.95) $66 special, 5 half-bottles available
Importer note “A ‘sélections des grains nobles’ of Savagnin though SGN is not officially recognized in the Jura. 250 grams RS.”
ITALY
Bisson ‘U Pastine’ Golfo del Tigullio Bianchetta Genovese , Liguria 2013 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 12 bottles available
Winery note “The term U Pastine is from the local dialect indicating a very special product, appropriate for this rare white grape found only in Liguria. Lugano has saved several parcels from extinction and from which he creates a truly unique white wine that is delicate, lively and satisfying, filled with vibrant minerality; it is particularly delightful when married to the white-fleshed fish that frequent the shores of this part of Liguria … the bianchetti, the nasello and tiny, exquisitely flavored langostino.”
VinopolNote: Grape variety is Petit Rouge, often comparable to Beaujolais in style.
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Bold and complex, this Syrah opens with intense, superrich notes of chocolate fudge, maraschino cherry, tobacco, sweet spice and rum cake. Smooth, elegant and persistent, this amazing expression boasts ripe fruit tannins. Drink after 2016” WE
Antonio Galloni 95 points “Playing true to type, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is another of the more open wines in this vintage. But that is only in relative terms. Layers of expressive red fruit, crushed flowers and spices flesh out in this radiant Barbaresco. In most vintages the Pora is one of the more accessible of the Riservas when young. The close proximity of the vineyard to the Tanaro River results in a warm microclimate that ripens the fruit earlier than elsewhere. In 2008, though, the Pora packs a serious punch. The coolness of the late harvest comes through in a finish laced with considerable tension and minerality. This is easily one of the very best Poras I have ever tasted from the Produttori. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.” AG
Wine Advocate 98 points “Voerzio’s 2007 Barolo Cerequio is a wonderful counter to the virile, imposing Brunate. Sweet red fruit, flowers and menthol are woven into a nuanced, textured fabric of notable class and elegance. The Cerequio possesses dazzling inner perfume, silky tannins and phenomenal length. It is a stunning, beautifully articulated Barolo blessed with tons of intensity and compelling overall balance. A final burst of red berries informs the long, explosive, perfumed finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.” WA
The next best price is $299
Stephen Tanzer 95+ points “Full, deep ruby-red. Restrained but highly complex nose melds strawberry, raspberry, currant, mocha and dried flowers; less exuberant today than the Samassa. But the sweetest and lushest in the mouth of these ’99s: hugely rich, creamy and seamless but with terrific supporting vinosity giving it a lightness of touch.” ST
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Highly complex aromas of raspberry, woodsmoke, spices, pepper and Havana tobacco. At once lush and sappy in the mouth, with the creamy sweetness of a fruit liqueur complemented by notes of tobacco, chocolate and mocha. Shows a distinctly roasted character without losing its balance or verve. Explosive, seamless Barolo that saturates the palate with fruit. Finishes with slow-building tannins and outstanding persistence.”ST
The next best price is $479
AUSTRIA
F.X. Pichler M Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2012 375ML ($59.95) Was $49, Now $39, 9 half-bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “Pichlers’ 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd M – mainly from Loibenberg, plus bits of Kellerberg, Liebenberg, Kollmutz and Muhlpoint – definitely shows the effect of Lucas Pichler’s decision to harvest earlier in recent years than his father usually did, particularly for this bottling. “I think the result is a bit more elegant,” he suggests, and I agree, however conceptually slippery or overused that word is. “I want something similar in style and quality to the Kellerberg,” he adds, “only not showcasing the character of an individual site but instead the grape variety,” and arguably, I’d add – albeit rather obviously – the synergy possible among various vineyards. Diverse floral perfumes – which then reprise inner-mouth; distilled pit fruits; and intimations of ripe pear and musk melon, all anticipate the silken-textured, lush yet remarkably buoyant and vibrantly interactive palate impression, brown spice-tinged and mingled with crushed stone, piquant fruit pit and white pepper. This misses quite the sheer length and penetration of the Kellerberg, but projects a superbly colorful and dynamic, near-kaleidoscopic complexity seldom equaled among Gruner Veltliners. (If memory serves, this is the first time I’ve rated an “M” Gruner Veltliner superior to the corresponding Kellerberg.) Plan to follow this “M” through at least 2022” WA
GERMANY
Georg Breuer Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Auslese, Rheingau 1996 375ML ($99.95) $49 special, 3 half-bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Full-bodied. Nectarine, pineapple, honey. Lush, tropical aromas convey a sense of richness that is delivered on the palate. Glycerous and intensely sweet, with a hint of petrol showing already. Lively acids. Delicious.” WE
Here is a unanimous first ballot inductee
“Our role is to ensure the story continues, to act as a relay and in so doing not make any radical changes..” –Jean Louis Chave, on his family’s famed history in Hermitage
For over five centuries, the Chave family has been producing Hermitage wines revered for their extraordinary quality and complexity. Jean-Louis Chave and his father, Gerard, are the current producers crafting wine from the numerous lieu-dits owned by the family that are scattered around the hill of Hermitage. The family has 37 acres of vineyards on Hermitage and has holdings in half of the 18 climats.
Their Hermitage Rouge is a blend of cuvees. The blend varies from year to year depending upon the strength of the individual climats, but the Bessards, from a steep granite slope, always plays a starring role. In their Hermitage Blanc, the 100 year of monopole Peleat is the core of the blend. It is a 100% Marsanne vineyard. The wine is 85% Marsanne and 15% Roussanne. The Saint Joseph rouge is crafted from estate vineyards in the historic center of the appellation, showing excellent structure, balance, and longevity.
All of their wines are crafted according to long-standing family traditions from low-yielding vineyards with an average vine age of 60 years. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented in wood vats and cement. The wines see small amounts of new oak and are unfiltered.
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Available Here Now
Jean-Louis Chave Selection Saint-Joseph Celeste Blanc 2012 750ML ($34.95) $29 special, 3 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Light gold. Pungent, mineral-laced aromas of dried pear, fig, honey and fennel, with a hint of jasmine in the background. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering incisive orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of waxiness. Smoothly combines richness and vivacity, finishing with firm mineral bite and strong floral persistence.” JR
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2011 1.5L ($549.95) $499 special, 3 magnums available
Wine Spectator 97 points “Still a bit reserved aromatically, with hints of orange blossom and crème anglaise peeking out, this features a captivating display of racy quinine, honeysuckle and white peach flavors inlaid into a rich core of brioche, Cavaillon melon, white truffle, smoked almond and heather honey. Incredibly long. Hard to resist now, but ideal for when your toddler graduates college. Best from 2019 through 2030.” WS
Wine Advocate 96 points “Just bottled, the 2011 Hermitage Blanc also shows the richer side of Hermitage with its full-bodied, voluptuously textured and up-front profile. Honeysuckle, licorice, toast, citrus oil and liquid mineral-like qualities all emerge from this beauty, and it stays beautifully fresh and focused on the palate. A blend of mostly Marsanne, yet with roughly 20% Roussanne, from the l’Ermite, Les Rocoules, Maison Blanche and Peleat lieux-dits, this substantial white should be consumed over the coming 2-4 years, or forgotten for a decade or more. It will have over two decades of longevity.” WA
Jean-Louis Chave Selection Saint-Joseph Offerus 2010 750ML ($34.95) $27 special, 36+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Deep, vivid ruby. High-pitched, mineral-accented aromas of cherry, black raspberry and fresh flowers. Offers an array of red and dark berry flavors that gain flesh and sweetness with air. Packs a serious punch but comes off as energetic, with no excess weight. Closes with resonating spiciness and sneaky, fine-grained tannins that fold smoothly into the sappy fruit. Jean-Louis noted that there is a bigger dose of Chave domain fruit than usual in this year’s version of Offerus. Incidentally, I was also able to retaste the 2010 Cotes-du-Rhone Mon Coeur, which I reviewed last year, and it has gained definition and energy over the last year. As mentioned before, this is a wine that drinks way above its category and is a highly reliable bottling vintage in and vintage out.” ST
Jean-Louis Chave Selection Crozes-Hermitage Silene 2011 750ML ($31.95) $28 special, 4 bottles available
Jean-Louis Chave Selection Crozes-Hermitage Silene 2012 750ML ($31.95) $28 special, 6 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Bright violet color. High-pitched red fruit and floral aromas are complicated by smoky minerals and white pepper. On the palate, juicy, sharply focused black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors gain flesh and weight with air. Shows excellent clarity and mineral cut on the finish, which is shaped by silky, slow-building tannins.” JR
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Saint-Joseph 2011 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 26 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “Tasted out of bottle and a smoking St.-Joseph that savvy readers need to seek out, the 2011 St.-Joseph (which was just bottled prior to this tasting) offers gorgeous richness and depth, especially in the vintage. Black currants, charcoal, mineral, bouquet garni and ample background meatiness all emerge from the glass, and this medium to full-bodied beauty has brilliant purity of fruit, a great texture and fine tannin that should allow it to evolve gracefully. It’s a fantastic value that should not be missed!” WA
Wine Spectator 94 points “Shows weight and depth, but maintains a distinctive purity as the core of plum, blackberry and anise flavors takes center stage, backed by hints of violet, iron and graphite. The lingering sanguine echo on the finish has deceptive length. Should cellar very well. Comparable in quality to the 2010, this bottling continues to improve. Best from 2015 through 2022.” WS
The average price is $71/bottle
Jean-Louis Chave Selection Hermitage Farconnet 2009 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 1 bottle available
Winery’s note “The grapes come from 3 distinctive parts of the Hermitage hill. Diognières is at the base of the hill on alluvial soil brought by the river ages ago. It is a sandy clay soil with many small pebbles. It gives spice to the wine. The next parcel is Péleat. It sits above Diognières and is composed of more sand and limestone in the clay. It gives finesse to the wine. And finally, Greffieux sits at the base of Le Meal on the hill. Its soil consists of rolled river stones brought by the glaciers. It gives the flesh in the wine. Farconnet was the name of a nobleman back in the time of Jean-Louis Chave’s great grandfather. He was actually the man from whom the great grandfather bought the Bessards parcel.”
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2011 750ML ($319.95) $219 special, 5 bottles available
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2011 1.5L ($649.95) $499 special, 2 magnums available
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2011 3L ($1,799.95) $1,399 special, 1 double-magnum available
Wine Advocate 96-98 points “The 2011 Hermitage (also still in barrel), in comparison, is more focused and straight, with a slightly more serious feel to its tannin profile and overall structure. All of the samples (again, tasted in individual components) were beautifully perfumed, with the Les Bessards (which will make up the bulk of the blend) showing surprising density and concentration in a vintage that generally produced more up-front and supple wines. A serious 2011 that will certainly be one of the stars of the vintage, it should be reasonably approachable on release and have an easy two decades of longevity.” WA
Wine Spectator 96 points “A grippy, mouthwatering style, with solid, briary tannins inlaid with finely beaded acidity, all of which meld into the core of anise, blackberry paste and fig sauce flavors. Shows terrific energy on the singed apple wood-filled finish. Should cruise in the cellar. Best from 2016 through 2030.” JM
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Available through off-site storage
(1-2 day fulfillment)
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin 2000 750ML ($2,999.95) $2,499 special, 1 bottle available
Antonio Galloni 97 points, Robert Parker 96 points, Stephen Tanzer 95-96 points “Bright saturated ruby. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, pepper and spices, with a hint of exotic fruits. Silky and seamless but also primary and precise, with a great lightness of touch. Utterly spherical wine, like Romanee-Conti to the basic bottling’s La Tache. Wonderfully subtle and extremely long on the aftertaste, with the expanding flavors maintaining near-magical focus. Interestingly, the regular 2000 is more open today despite the fact that it was recently bottled.”ST
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Arriving in June
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2012 750ML ($319.95) $269 pre-arrival special
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc 2012 1.5L ($699.95) $519 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 96 points “Much more open, fleshy and sexy, the 2012 Hermitage Blanc was just bottled a month prior to this tasting. Coming from l’Ermite, Les Rocoules, Maison Blanche and Peleat lieux-dits, it’s always a rough blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne that’s aged in barrel. Loaded with notions of honeysuckle, orange marmalade, powered rock, buttered citrus and green almond, it’s full-bodied, rich, upfront and fruit loaded. While I think it will be a relatively accessible early in its life, it has the concentration to hold for two decades.” WA
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94-96 points “Tasted in single-site components from tanks as the wine awaited blending: #1, from Peleat: Ripe pear and honey aromas, with a suave floral accent and a hint of smoky minerals. At once rich and lively, showing excellent back-end power. #2, from Rocoules: Intense, mineral-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with a sexy floral nuance building with air. Bright, focused and mineral-driven, with a strong Meyer lemon quality lingering on the tangy finish. #3, also from Rocoules: Showing more emphasis on orchard fruit than the first Rocoules tank, with powerful quince and pear flavors and a touch of bitter quinine. Dusty minerals sharpen the long, sappy finish. #4, from l’Ermite: Spicy citrus zest and ginger scents along with a chalky mineral note and a hint of anise. Smoky and penetrating, with superb finishing clarity and lingering spiciness. #5, also from l’Ermite: More floral and masculine than the previous l’Ermite, with strong jasmine and orchard fruit character and a touch of bitter quinine. Bright and nervy on the finish, which doesn’t want to let up.” JR
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2012 750ML ($319.95) $269 pre-arrival special
Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2012 1.5L ($699.95) $519 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 94-97 points “Looking at the 2012 Hermitage, which is still resting in barrels and getting ready to be bottled, it’s a much more classic, easy to read Hermitage that has lots of ripe, sweet fruit in its full-bodied, concentrated, textured profile. It has copious sweet blackberry and cassis fruit, violet and serious granite-like minerality, superb mid-palate depth and a focused, structured finish. It’s a beautiful, classy 2012 that will have 20-25+ years of longevity.” WA
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 95-97 points “Presented as components from four different barrels: #1, from Beaume: Exotic scents of candied licorice, dark berries and smoky Indian spices. Fleshy and broad on entry, then tighter in the middle, displaying superb depth to its bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors. #2, from Peleat: Explosive red fruit and potpourri aromas, with a bright mineral overtone. Silky and sweet, offering vibrant raspberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of bitter chocolate. The red fruit note echoes strongly on the back half. #3, from Meal: Fleshier and rounder than the first two components, offering plush dark berry and violet flavors that coat the palate. Chewy tannins build on the finish and fold smoothly into the wine’s dense fruit. #4, from Bessards: Emphatic mineral and dark berry aromas pick up a sexy floral note and a hint of cola. Sappy, penetrating and sharply focused, displaying an impressive array of red fruit and floral qualities and strong finishing spiciness. Jean-Louis Chave told me he thinks this wine will be “classic Hermitage with an emphasis on fruit, not structure, but not lacking in structure at all–just compared to, say, 2010 and 2005.” JR