Vinopolpick Thursday – February 6th

February 6, 2014
Gevrey Chambertin, one of the northernmost villages in the Cote de Nuit of Northern Burgundy, is home to two well respected wine makers that share both a last name and a passion for purity of expression from their old vines.  Although the AOC of Gevrey Chambertin was designated in 1939, the region boasts over nine centuries of being world-renowned for its rich, earthy and structured wines.  Bernard Dugat, owner and wine maker of Domaine Dugat-Py and his cousin Claude Dugat, owner of Domaine Claude Dugat, come from a family with an extraordinarily long history of grape growing and wine making in the region.
And if you are not a Burgundy fan, scroll down for the super sale on Domaine Chante Cigale Chateauneuf du Pape at the end of this newsletter!Dugat-Py

Bernard Dugat is the twelfth generation of his family to make wine in Gevrey Chambertin.  He traces this lineage to the early 17th century.  In 1923, Domaine Dugat was founded by his grandfather, Fernand Dugat.  Bernard began working in the vineyards and making wine alongside his parents, Pierre and Michele Dugat, in 1975.  Bernard’s parents began estate bottling wine in 1989.  Before that time, their fruit was typically sold to Maison Leroy.  Bernard renamed the Domaine in 1994 when he appended his wife Jocelyne’s maiden name, Py (which helps distinguish the Domaine from his cousin’s, Claude Dugat).  His son, Loïc, began assisting in 1996.  Father, wife and son are producing wines of great concentration tempered by balance and finesse.The Domaine has been organic since 2003 and incorporates biodynamic techniques in its vineyards.  Domaine Dugat-Py has holdings in several Premier Crus and three Grand Crus.  The vines average an astounding 65 years in age and are replanted using only the domain’s root stock, never from outside clones.  The vines are trimmed by hand, often by the Dugats who live beside some of their vineyard land, and some sites are ploughed by horses.

Bernard Dugat is known as a shrewd wine maker.  He employs minimalist techniques in the winery and ancient cellars.  This begins by using exclusively Domaine Dugat-Py-grown grapes for all of their wines.  Fermentation takes places in cement and wooden vats with some stems, depending upon the vineyard and vintage.  He uses the stems discretely to soften tannins, taking care not to overwhelm fruit aromas.  During fermentation, the cap is punched down and the wine pumped over once daily to avoid over extraction.  The wines are aged in all new barrels produced by Francois Freres, the fourth generation-owned cooperage in Saint Roman.  The wine is unfined and unfiltered.

In the old section of the village are the remains of a small abbey, or Aumônerie, once owned by the St, Benigne Abbey of Dijon.  It was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries, and its cellars once held the Abbey’s wine.  The ancient vaulted cellar beneath the Aulmônerie is where the wines age for 18-24 months, in keeping with the cellar’s original purpose.

Domaine Dugat-Py wines are best enjoyed with at least 5 years of bottle ageing.  These wines are in the classic Gevrey-Chambertin style: richly concentrated, dark, and full bodied.  Tight and tannic in their youth, the wines mature gracefully into elegant wines.

Domaine Dugat-Py Wines here now:
Dugat-Py Gevrey Evocelles 2002 ($219.95) $179.00 special, 1 bottle remaining
Burghound Outstanding Pick
 “This is more elegant aromatically with a lovely hint of minerality to complement the earthy, slightly gamy notes leading to supple yet incredibly dense, wonderfully pure and beautifully textured flavors plus a powerfully long finish. Fine balance and superb overall quality for a villages level Gevrey.”Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin 2003 ($699.95) $599.00 special, 1 bottle remaining
Robert Parker 95 points
 “Boisterous aromas of spices and waxy black cherries galore burst from the glass of the 2003 Charmes-Chambertin. Its fabulously oily texture combined with its power, concentration, and length make this rich, expansive beauty a delight to taste. Myriad spices are intermingled with red and black fruits in its sensual, long character. Anticipated maturity now -2015.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chamb Coeur Du Roy VV 2005 ($199.95) $169.00 special, 4 bottles remaining
Burghound 92 points ‘Outstanding!’
 “A deeply pitched and slightly riper nose of cassis and spiced plum adds nuance to the intensely earthy aromas where the earth character can also be found on the rich, full and voluminous flavors that are almost opulent on the mid-palate yet the finish is borderline austere. This is a very serious effort that has a velvety texture but tightens up quickly on the backend due to the buried stucture. Terrific potential here in a “built for the long haul” package that delivers amazing quality for its level.”

Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin 2006 ($399.95) $319.00 special, 3 bottles remaining
Burghound 95 points
 “A red berry liqueur nose complements beautifully the excellent quality and fine material of the generous, rich, sweet and full-bodied flavors that possess excellent detail despite the robust character of the mid-palate, all wrapped in a strikingly complex, dusty, mouth coating and amazingly long finish. This is a seriously impressive effort and a legitimate candidate for the Charmes of the vintage; note however that patience will be required.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin VV 2008 ($139.95) $99.00 special, 7 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 91 points 
“The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, from vines ranging from 30-50 years of age, shows superb length in a mid-weight, mineral-driven style. With time in the glass the silkiness of the tannins emerges as the wine takes shape. Elegant and refined throughout, the Vieilles Vignes possesses captivating balance and a great sense of harmony. This is a beautiful wine from Dugat-Py, but it needs time. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028.”

Dugat-Py Pommard Levriere Vieille Vigne 2009 ($229.95) $149.00 special, 11 bottles remaining
Burghound 89-92 points
 “A very ripe nose features nose of plum, cassis and warm earth aromas that lead to rich, full-bodied and very serious big-bodied flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and a sappy, long and mouth coating finish. This is an exceptionally good villages.”

Dugat-Py Vosne-Romanee VV 2009 ($249.95) $199.00 special, 12 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 90-93 points
 “The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes is a sweet, sensual wine graced with exquisite depth in its spiced dark red fruit. Mineral notes add to a sense of thrust as the wine works its way through to the intense, textured finish. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Coeur De Roi 2009 ($249.95) $199.00 special, 18 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 91-93 points
 “The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roi is a dark, inward wine. It shows serious weight and density in its dark fruit and sensual personality. A blast of smoke, licorice and menthol informs the long, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin V V 2009 ($159.95) $129.00 special, 18 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 90 points
 “The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes shows more freshness and elegance than the 2010. Ripe red berries, flowers and mint come together nicely in this supple, pliant Gevrey. Floral notes reappear on the finish, adding brightness and lift. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.”
Burghound 90 points “This is very ripe yet fresh with the stems contributing a distinct floral influence to the pure black pinot fruit, earth and wet stone aromas. There is excellent richness to the dense and very serious medium-bodied flavors where the underlying structural elements are notably ripe. One aspect of this that I very much like is that despite the high level of ripeness, there is good energy and freshness. A fine villages that could be drunk young.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Evocelles 2009 ($249.95) $199.00 special, 6 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 90-92 points
 “The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles is deep, dark and sensual in its inviting layers of dark fruit, spices and menthol. Clean, mineral notes frame the long, intensely satisfying finish. This saw 100% new oak, but you would hardly know it based on the wine’s exceptional balance. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2049.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin ‘1ER’ 2009 ($399.95) $299.00 special, 6 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 91-94 points
 “The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is a totally seamless, opulent wine that caresses the palate with layers of intense fruit. Full-bodied and rich to the finish, the 1er Cru is flat-out beautiful. This authoritative Burgundy will require patience, but it is striking in is harmony. In 2009 the 1er Cru is made from parcels in Les Corbeaux and Les Perrieres, as Dugat made the decision to vinify and age the Fontenys separately in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Champeaux 2009 ($429.95) $339.00 special, 6 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 93-96 points 
“The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux is one of the richest, darkest wines in this lineup. The Champeaux is a decidedly opulent wine that emphasizes sheer extract of fruit over aromatic complexity. There is plenty of underlying tannic material, but the tannins are totally buried by the sheer depth of the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Petite Chapelle 2009 ($429.95) $339.00 special, 6 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 92-95 points 
“The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle opens with a sensual, exotic bouquet. Layers of crisp, nuanced fruit follow effortlessly as this seductive wine shows off its pedigree. Full-bodied and supple on the palate, the magnificent Petite Chapelle conquers all of the senses. The finish is breathtaking and eternal. This is a dazzling effort from Dugat-Py. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Lavaux St Jacques 2009 ($429.95) $339.00 special, 4 bottles remaining
Wine Advocate 93-96 points
 “The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St. Jacques hovers on the palate with an impeccable, ethereal expression of fruit. This is all grace and elegance, but it isn’t an obvious wine, rather it is a wine that slowly seduces the palate and intellect. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.”


Claude Dugat
Claude Dugat, Bernard’s cousin, produces his own superb Burgundy wines.  His vineyards, located throughout Burgundy, are organic.  Much effort is put into keeping yields to as little as 18 hectoliters per hectare, through stressing the vines with minimal nutrients or by using old vines.  Fermentation and ageing are done in barrels.  Much like his cousin’s, his wines are produced using minimal intervention, with no fining or filtration.

Claude Dugat Wines here now:

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2003 ($119.95) $99.00 special, 2 bottles remaining
Stephen Tanzer 89 points
 “Good full red. Superripe, slightly porty aromas of black cherry, damp earth and chocolate. Fat, full and compellingly sweet, with just enough freshness to maintain its balance. Finishes with substantial palate-coating tannins and notes of smoke and truffle.”Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 1ER Cru 2007 ($179.95) $139.00 special, 5 bottles remaining
Burghound 89-91 points
 “This offers a big step up in aromatic elegance with very fresh dark berry fruit and warm earth notes that carry over to the underbrush and mineral suffused medium weight flavors that possess a suave and less obviously structured mouth feel as the buried tannins are relegated to the background on the persistent and intense finish. Lovely.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Lavaux St Jacques 2007 ($209.95) $179.00 special, 5 bottles remaining
Burghound 91 points ‘Outstanding’ 
“A deft touch of wood frames cool, refined, elegant and quite pure red berry fruit aromas that carry obvious stony undertones that also characterize the supple, focused and intense flavors that are tautly muscled and feature real precision on the beautifully long finish. This is a classic Lavaut in style as there is a definite coolness and the entire wine is built on a base of firm minerality.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2008 ($119.95) $89.00 special, 9 bottles remaining
Stephen Tanzer 89 points
 “Good red-ruby color. Dark fruits, spices, game and leather on the nose. Good density of material is currently fighting strong acidity, giving the wine a slightly tart quality and a disjointed character. Rather severe today, but the penetrating spicy acidity extends the finish. This very serious village wine will require at least a few years of bottle aging.”

French Twist
Super Sale on Chateauneuf du Pape
Domaine Chante Cigale (Singing Cicada) was founded in 1874 by Hyppolite Jourdan in the village of Chateauneuf du Pape in Southern Rhone.  Alexandre Favier, his descendant, has owned and operated the Domaine since 2002.  The Domaine grows all thirteen varieties allowed under the Chateauneuf du Pape AOC and harvests by hand over the six or more weeks during which the different varieties become ripe.  We are offering a special on their Chateauneuf du Pape Traditional red sourced from 45 year old vines of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.  Parcels are selectively destemmed based on location, varietal and vintage.  The wine is fermented with naturally occurring yeasts and is aged for over 15 months in a mixture of 70% concrete and 30% new barrels.  The Domaine anticipates an ageing potential of 10-15 years.Chante Cigale Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2011 ($39.95) $24 super special, 69 bottles available

Robert Parker 90 points “Moving to the reds, and a beautiful 2011 that shows the best of the vintage, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up loads of Asian spices, kirsch, ground herbs and cedar in a medium-bodied, sweetly fruity and balanced package. Complex and already drinking great, it should evolve gracefully for 8-10 years. Drink now-2021”
Lowest listed price in the USA today!