February 3rd Newsletter

Beefie Beaujolais

Duboeuf Morgon Cote de Puy 2011 ($17.95) $11.90 special
David Schildknecht -Wine Advocate 91 points “Sweetly ripe black raspberry accented with bitter-edged huckleberry and bittersweet, high-toned tangerine rind make for a strikingly forceful Duboeuf 2011 Morgon Cote de Py, with game-like carnal character, black tea smokiness, and an underlying impression of crushed stone gaining prominence as the wine opens, making for an especially diverse and interactive finish. With fine-grained, well-integrated tannins, overt density, sappy fruit intensity, and sheer grip, this extraordinary value should perform well at least through 2016. ”

Duboeuf Morgon Domaine des Versauds 2011 ($17.95) $11.90 special
David Schildknecht -Wine Advocate 91 points “Reflecting more than 40 years’ collaboration spanning three generations of the Poulard family, Duboeuf’s 2011 Morgon Domaine des Versauds combines ripe black raspberry with beet root for a sweet and earthy palate presence tinged with a bite of black pepper and hints of peat, black tea and smoked meat that contribute to a mouthwateringly savory and invigorating finish. There is a positive sense of extract or density here yet infectious juiciness and buoyancy, too. Hints of iris and wet stone in the empty glass add to the imposing complexity offered by this extraordinary value. Enjoy it through at least 2015.”

Duboeuf Moulin a Vent Domaine des Rosiers2011 ($19.95) $14 special
David Schildknecht –Wine Advocate 91 points “Representing one of numerous multi-generational collaborations with Duboeuf, the 2011 Moulin-a-Vent Domaine des Rosiers – from parcels in the commune of Chenas including a portion of La Rochelle, and raised in a mixture of barrel and tank – is pungently resinous in its expression of dried herbs and more subtle in its smoky black tea and spicy, oak-related elements, which are nicely woven into an overtly dense palate presentation saturated with cassis and beet root, and suffused with fine tannins. Finishing with cut, juicily mouth-coating persistence, invigoratingly peppery bite, and saliva-inducing salt- and iodine-tinged shrimp shell reduction, this superb value promises to reward at least through 2016. (Jun 2013)”

New Week New Wines

USA- CALIFORNIA
Ramey Annum Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 ($99.95) $89 special
Antonio Galloni 94+ points ” The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Annum has more focus and nuance than the 2009. A big, broad-shouldered wine, the 2010 develops beautifully in the glass as the fruit fleshes out. Firm tannins frame a core of super-ripe fruit. The Annum is made almost exclusively from hillside fruit. It is also the ripest of the Ramey Cabernets and that overtness strikes me as a bit over the top, as the Annum often lacks the precision of the best Ramey wines. ”

Ramey Pedegral Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($219.95) $199 special
Robert Parker 98 points “As usual, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal Vineyard is a fabulous effort. The debut vintage of this cuvee was 2004, which is still quite young (I recently rated it 95). From the Oakville appellation, it is aged in 100% new Taransaud barrels, but sadly, only about 260 cases are made. The 2010 boasts beautiful notes of fruitcake, espresso roast, chocolate and black currants in its complex, full-bodied, concentrated, multi-dimensional personality. There is a huge up-side to this beauty as the tannins have not yet fully resolved. Give it another few years of bottle age and drink it over the following two decades or more.”

Ramey Syrah 2011 ($41.95) $36 special
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “Ramey’s 2011 Syrah is flat-out gorgeous. In this vintage, the Syrah includes the Rodgers Creek fruit, so it is more varietal than is typically the case. Savory herbs, dried flowers, black cherries and black pepper are some of the many notes that flow through to the finish. Quite simply, the 2011 is an extraordinary wine in its price range.”

AUSTRALIA – PADTHAWAY
Henry’s Drive Pillar Box Reserve Shiraz 2009 ($21.95) $16 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “Firm, focused and juicy, with guava, currant and white pepper flavors, coming together smoothly against refined tannins on the lingering finish. Best from 2014 through 2019.”

FRANCE – CHAMPAGNE
Vouette et Sorbee Rose Saignee de Sorbee Extra-Brut NV (2010) ($109.95) $89 special, limited supply
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Another drop-dead gorgeous beauty, Vouette et Sorbée’s Extra Brut Saignée de Sorbée is insanely beautiful. Crushed flowers, tobacco, mint and dried cherries waft from the glass in an eccentric, nuanced Champagne loaded with personality and class. The Saignée de Sorbée is unquestionably wild and unique, but it is also compelling. Readers who want to explore the wines of Vouette et Sorbée might want to start here, or with the Fidèle.”

FRANCE – BURGUNDY
Domaine Thibert Macon-Prisse 2011 ($21.95) $18 special
Importer notes “Christophe Thibert and his sister Sandrine are the 7th generation at the helm of Domaine Thibert Père et Fils, which now encompasses over 60 acres throughout the region. They have multiple small parcels in several appellations, including Mâcon-Prissé, St. Véran, and Pouilly-Fuissé. Christophe is another winner of the Trophée de Jeune Talents – the best young winemaker in Burgundy – receiving the award in 2011. They farm organically in most parcels, and pick the grapes by hand – two practices that are exceedingly rare in these parts (but on the rise with the new generation of quality-oriented producers.) The use of new oak is now at a maximum of 20% for the top Pouilly-Fuissé cuvées, while some appellations see no new wood at all… these are wines of terroir, wines that speak strongly of the place they come from. The wines are pure and authentic – Christophe hasn’t tried to steer them in any direction, rather he’s let them tell the story of their birthplace. And it’s a story I like to hear again and again” Vinopolnote Nice well-balanced wine, would be happy to have a glass anytime.

Louis Latour Corton-Grancey Grand Cru 2005 ($119.95) $99 special
Burghound 90-93 points “A very subtle touch of wood frames a spicy red berry fruit nose that dissolves into rich, full, well-muscled and sweet flavors that possess a good deal more volume and while the mid-palate is supple and round, the finish has the firmness that one expects from a big Corton. There is much better balance here and this should age well.”

Louis Latour Corton-Grancey Grand Cru 2006 ($99.95) $79 special
Burghound 89-91 points “A pretty and only moderately sauvage nose of crushed red berries, oak spice and warm earth gives way to reveal round, supple and slightly light flavors relative to what this wine usually possesses, all wrapped in a firm finish with grand cru finesse and elegance if not necessarily the power and depth. Still, this is most attractive.”

Louis Latour Corton-Grancey Grand Cru 2008 ($119.95) $89 special
Burghound 89-92 points “Mild wood influence does not compromise the transparency of the fresh and earthy red pinot fruit nose that exhibits a slight sauvage character that can also be found on the energetic, detailed and tautly muscled middle weight flavors that possess good richness and more refinement than usual on the serious, long and linear finish where a touch of austerity can also be seen.”

Anne-Francois Gros Chambolle-Musigny 2011 ($99.95) $79 special
Burghound 88-91 points “An exuberantly spicy and quite fresh nose of wild red cherries, mineral nuances and a top note of violets introduce textured and attractively intense middle weight flavors that possess plenty of verve on the delicious finish that is shaped by firm but not hard tannins that are well-integrated. This will require a few years of patience.”

FRANCE- JURA
Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Rubis 2012 ($23.95) $19 special
From The Winery: “Made with 45% Trousseau, 45% Poulsard and 10% Pinot Noir this wine is characterized by it’s lightness and the complex bouquet of red fruits and earthy character. It can be kept for up to 5 years and is best served at 14ºC with charcuterie, smoked meats, grills and meat with fruit dishes such as pork with roasted apple.”

Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Nature 2011 ($26.95) $21.90 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “Apple, fennel seed and creamed melon notes glide along, woven with a waxy hint and followed by an echo of salted butter on the finish. Nice persistence and range. Naturé is a synonym for Savagnin.”

Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($24.95) $21.90 special
Importer note: “100% Chardonnay, 17 year old vines.  Gravel and marl soil.  A pure Chardonnay that speaks clearly of the Jura region. It is barrel-aged for 12 months in principally neutral barrels (the % of new oak varies from 8 to 16%), according to classic methods with topping up to avoid oxidation. The wine is fresh, pure Chardonnay with the distinct notes of the Jura terroir or earth and hay. Serve it with poultry or veal associated with mushrooms, and cheese. ”

FRANCE – BANDOL
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2012 ($39.95) $27 special
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2012 1.5L ($79.95) $59 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Light, bright orange-pink. Complex scents of fresh red berries, nectarine and orange zest, with a sexy floral overtone. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering juicy cherry and pit fruit flavors and an exotic touch of honey. A dusty mineral quality adds bite and lift to the strikingly long, chewy, floral back end.”

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge 2009 ($41.95) $33 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “This is focused on its graphite and slate flavors, with crisp accents of dried raspberry and cherry in the background. Cream and cocoa powder notes linger on the refined finish, supported by medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2018.”

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge 2010 ($39.95) $29 special
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge 2010 375ML ($27.95) $18 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “Notes of sanguine and rosemary line the core of taut cherry preserves and red currant paste. A singed alder hint flitters through the finish, showing good persistence. Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Drink now through 2020.”

Domaine Tempier Cuvee Cabassaou Bandol 2010 ($99.95) $79 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “The pure, solid core of kirsch and blackberry pâte de fruit is studded with rosemary, bitter plum, ganache and anise notes. This slowly yields to extra juniper, iron and sanguine accents that play out through the long, layered finish. This needs time to unwind fully. Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2017 through 2020.”

Domaine Tempier La Migoua Bandol 2010 ($79.95) $49 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Packed but racy, with a gorgeous note of cassis-soaked rosemary adding lift to the core of steeped plum, black currant and roasted alder notes. The long, taut finish has drive, revealing an echo of freshly seared meat that should meld beautifully with age. Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah. Best from 2017 through 2027.”

Domaine Tempier La Tourtine Bandol 2010 ($79.95) $49 special
Domaine Tempier La Tourtine Bandol 2010 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Densely packed, with a brooding feel, offering plum eau-de-vie, kirsch and blackberry paste notes held in check behind a wall of charcoal, loam and singed rosemary sprig. Features ample, fine-grained grip, revealing a mouthwatering sanguine echo at the very end. Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault. Best from 2017 through 2027.”

FRANCE -LOIRE
Bernard Fouquet Domaine des Aubuisieres Vouvray Cuvee de Silex 2012 ($19.95) $16 special

ITALY- PIEDMONT
Guido Porro Barbera d’Alba Santa Caterina 2011 ($21.95) $18 special
Guido Porro Barolo Lazzairasco Serralunga 2008 ($47.95) $39 special
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “Porro’s 2008 Barolo Vigna Lazzairasco impresses for its inner sweetness, perfumed fruit and soft, silky tannins. Guido Porro’s Baroli are never huge, but they are among the most elegant and refined wines of Serralunga. Hard candy, freshly cut mint and roses linger on the sublime finish. In 2008, the Lazzairasco is quite open, but it should also drink well for many years. This is a fabulous showing.”

ITALY- TUSCANY
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana 2010 ($79.95) $66 special
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “Isole e Olena’s 2010 Cepparello is magnificent. In particular, I admire the way the wine fleshes out in all directions, with seemingly endless layers of dark, mineral-infused berry, plum and pomegranate notes. A primal wine in need of significant cellaring, the 2010 is easily one of the highlights of the year. Bright, saline notes support the precise finish. Today, the 2010 is naturally quite backward and undeveloped, but it should be a gem in another 5-10 years. This is an especially dark, structured Cepparello built for the cellar. The 2010 brightens up with time in the glass, but it remains one of the darker, more brooding wines made in the estate’s history.”

Chateau du Cayrou Cahors 2004 1.5L ($49.95) $39 special, only 6 magnums available

Domaine La Berangeraie Cahors Cuvee Maurin 2009 ($21.95) $18 special
The Maurin is 100% Malbec, also concrete aged and unfiltered.

Artazuri Garnacha Navarra 2011 ($11.95) $7.70 special, 3+ cases available
Jamie Goode (Wine Anorak) 90 points “Lovely fresh raspberry fruit nose. Crunchy, lively and pure. The palate is ripe, supple and elegant with bright cherry and raspberrry fruit, finishing with some grippiness. Vibrant and juicy, and quite lovely”

Dominio De Eguren Codice Tinto 2009 ($11.95) $7.50 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Vivid purple.  Aromas of cassis, cherry, licorice and mocha.  Dense, alluringly sweet and juicy, with excellent concentration to its chewy dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors.  Stays sweet through the persistent finish, which features silky, fine-grained tannins and lingering spiciness.  This wine always delivers serious value.”

Zorzal Garnacha Vinas Viejas 2010 ($14.95) $8.80 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 88 points “Bright purple.  Jammy black and blue fruits on the nose and in the mouth.  Open-knit and juicy, with good clarity and lift.  Not the last word in complexity but extremely easy to like.  Finishes with good clarity and subtle spiciness.”

Cepa 21 Hito Ribera Del Duero 2010 ($17.95) $10.90 special, 27 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Bright ruby.  Pungent aromas of cherry, dark berries, licorice and mocha, with a subtle note of cracked pepper in the background.  Juicy, penetrating bitter cherry and cassis flavors unfold to show a richer plummy character.  Closes smoky and long, with gentle tannins and lingering spiciness.”

Emilio Moro Finca Resalso Ribera 2011 ($17.95) $10.90 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 90+ points “Dark purple.  Intense, spice-accented aromas and flavors of cherry compote and cassis, with cola nuance building with air.  Sappy, penetrating and extremely young, but promising, with strong finishing cut and silky tannins.”

Zorzal Graciano 2010 ($14.95) $11.90 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 89 points “Vivid ruby.  Bright, spice-accented aromas of cherry and redcurrant, with a deeper licorice note building with air.  Youthfully taut red fruit flavors show good depth and pick up spiciness with air.  Dusty tannins add grip and shape to the finish, which features notes of bitter cherry and cracked pepper.”

Bodegas Zerran Montsant 2011 ($17.95) $14 special, 3+ cases available
Robert Parker 92 points “Even more so is the 2011 Zerran, which ratchets up the level of concentration and ripe fruit. It reveals abundant kirsch, lavender, black raspberry and dusty, loamy, earthy scents intermixed with notions of spring flowers and blackberries. There is not any oak evident in this dense effort. Its completeness and overall equilibrium are impressive, and this great value should drink well for 5-6 years, possibly longer. (There is no track record for these wines in terms of aging.) Production from the Rueda vineyard (38.3 acres) owned by Jorge Ordonez was begun in 2011. This well-known white wine appellation sits on the border of the province of Segovia. The 2010 and 2011 Zerran come from a vineyard planted at 1,500-1,800 feet altitude. They are blends of Grenache, Mazuelo and Syrah whose vines were planted between 1934 and 1942.”

Marques De Legarda Rioja Crianza 2008 ($17.95) $14 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2008 Marques de Legarda Crianza has an attractive bouquet of brambly red berry fruits tinged with marmalade and Moroccan leather. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and is well-balanced. It builds gently to a lovely, dusky dark chocolate-coated finish that maintains freshness and tradition to the very finish. This is very commendable. Drink now-2015. ”

Vivir Vivir Ribera Del Duero 2007 ($17.95) $14.90 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2007 Vivir, vivir is 100% Tempranillo sourced from 20- to 60-year-old vines in La Horra. It was aged for ten months in tank prior to bottling. Dark ruby-colored, it features racy aromatics of mineral, spice box, black cherry and blackberry. Silky on the palate with no hard edges, this tasty wine will provide pleasure over the next three years.”
Alvaro Palacios Camins Del Priorat 2011 ($21.95) $15.70 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright purple.  Aromas and flavors of ripe red berries, cola and spicecake, with a deeper note of licorice emerging with air.  Lush and seamless, with very good finishing breadth and spicy persistence.  Shows plenty of upfront appeal but this wine has the concentration and balance to reward at least mid-term aging.”

Vina Sastre Ribera Del Duero 2011 ($19.95) $16 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright purple. Pungent aromas of blueberry, cherry-cola and smoky minerals, with a spicy overtone.  Expansive black and blue fruit flavors show impressive depth and energy, picking up a smoky nuance with air. Closes on a spicy note, with gentle tannic grip and excellent length. Pretty impressive for an entry-level wine, especially from this vintage.”

Descendientes J Palacios Bierzo Petalos 2010 ($24.95) $16 special, 11 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “(all mencia, as is the case for all of these wines, which are aged briefly in new French oak and then in older barrels before bottling):  Dark ruby.  Ripe red- and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by anise, cola and sexy oak spices.  Soft dark berry preserve flavors gain minerality and firmness with air.  Zesty cherry skin and mineral notes carry through a long, gently tannic finish.”

Domaine et Selection is a label owned by l’Hotel de Bonne, and since forever ago several elite wineries make bits of wine to be bottled on that label with the inclusion (in the case of Ponsot) on the label “Elevé et mis en bouteille par LAURENT PONSOT, Morey-St-Denis, France, pour Domaine et Selection.”
Which is to say, these wines made and bottled by Laurent Ponsot. These wines seldom surface beyond the hotel. It is just a little Burgundy insiders’ thing.

Here now:
Domaine et Selection Laurent Ponsot Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2009 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special
3 magnums available

Arriving Mid-Late February:
Domaine et Selection Laurent Ponsot Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2009 750ml ($349.95) $319 special
12 bottles available

Domaine et Selection Laurent Ponsot Le Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 750ml ($349.95) $319 special
12 bottles available

Domaine et Selection Laurent Ponsot Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009 750ml ($249.95) $219 special
12 bottles available

Araujo Cabernet Sauvignon Eisile Vineyard 2010 ($449.95) $379 pre-arrival special
Robert Parker 98 points “Araujo’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard is a picture perfect example of the year. Vibrant, precise and beautifully chiseled, the 2010 boasts serious depth and concentration. The aromas and flavors are incredibly vivid in this textured, dazzling Cabernet Sauvignon. Hints of dark blue and black fruit, mocha, espresso and grilled herbs flesh out on the huge finish. Today the 2010 is unusually open, but it is almost certain to shut down in bottle over the next 6-12 months. The 2010 is a super-classic Eisele Cabernet Sauvignon from Araujo.”