Vinopolis Newsletter – Saturday 11-12-22

 

From Audrey Frick of Jeb Dunnuck dot com
 
Didier Gimonnet’s wines are pure, classical Blanc de Blancs Champagne.  Gimonnet’s devotion to cool, minerally Champagne made from Chardonnay borders on monastic. At their best, Gimonnet seems to have a quiet resonance, like a beautiful bell struck in a quiet stone hallway. The wines draw you in, not with bombast or noise, but with a clear directness and purity of tone, a personality just as much reflected in the man himself. That pursuit of beauty and elegance, from the entry-level to the top of the line, makes Gimonnet a perpetually top grower in Champagne.
 
Arriving in November:
 
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuis Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $54.50 pre-arrival special
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuis Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 375ml $33 pre-arrival special
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuis Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 1.5L $138 pre-arrival special
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 92 points “This NV Champagne 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Cuis Brut is expressive, with more classic appeal, though it takes on a light reductive tinge, with flint and wet asphalt aromatics. It has more direct concentration, with fresh green apple underneath, lemon zest, and white blossoms. The palate is more focused and concentrated, with a long finish and a pronounced chalky texture. The palate is long and persistent, with fresh acidity. I think this will mature nicely and take on classic blanc de blancs custard in the future. Drink 2025-2045.”
 
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Gastronome, Champagne 2018 750ml $69 pre-arrival special
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2018 Champagne Cuvée Gastronome Brut has a bit sunnier feel, with primary fruit aromas of Williams pear, lime blossoms, candy, and green apple. The palate is full and rounded, with a coarser mineral texture throughout compared to the other cuvée. It has wonderful salinity and takes on a more savory expression that I find quite attractive. This feel slike it has the structure to carry on for 2-3 decades to come.”
 
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuvee Special Club Brut Millesime, Champagne 2015 750ml $105 pre-arrival special, only 12 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “A hint of smokiness in the 2015 Champagne Special Club Brut is followed by pithy citrus of grapefruit, white flowers, and bread dough. It has linear and energetic tension, with a long driving finish. Drink 2022-2032.”
 
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Chouilly Grand Cru Special Club, Champagne 2015 750ml $148 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2015 Champagne Grand Cru Special Club Chouilly Brut is savory in its attack, with tarragon and fresh herbs, lime zest, and saline earth. With its ripeness and rounded feel, it is approachable now. Drink 2022-2034.”
 
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cramant Grand Cru Special Club, Champagne 2015 750ml $159 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Expressive and sunny, the 2015 Champagne Cramant Grand Cru Special Club Brut is ripe with orchard fruits, lemon bars, and white flowers. The palate has more depth for the range and is also broad, though it does have tension and a stony finish. With notes of salted lime, ripe white peach, and green pear, this is a more warming wine that can stand up throughout a meal. Of the 2015s, I think this one will stand up nicely over time. Drink 2024-2042.”
 
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Rose de Blancs Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $72 pre-arrival special, only 12 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 92 points “The NV Champagne Rosé de Blancs pours a pale salmon hue and offers fresh aromas of delicate flowers and raspberry as well as notes of fresh peach and almond. This is a pretty style with approachability and an ease about it now. Drink 2022-2032.”
 
The Pierre Peters Champagne bottlings are regularly rated by critics as “outstanding” and Rodolphe Peters is universally considered one of the top growers in Champagne. The top wine of Pierre Peters is the “Les Chetillons” (or Cuvée Spéciale) considered to be one of the best single-vineyard champagnes of the Côte des Blancs, alongside Salon and Krug’s Clos du Mesnil (though it is not a rival in price). It comes from three small parcels in the vineyard of Les Chetillons that were acquired by the family in 1930. One of the most highly-regarded sites within Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, these vines in the oldest plot of 80 acres are 68 years old, with the rest of the vines averaging 50 years old. Each parcel is vinified separately and blended to produce a single vineyard vintage. Chétillons offers a chance to witness one of Champagne’s best growers working in one of the greatest sites for Chardonnay. The results are gorgeous, as noted wine writer Peter Liem states, “there’s no denying this wines’ quality.”
 
Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $61.90 pre-arrival special
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 90 points “The NV Champagne Cuvée de Reserve Brut is vibrant with soft lime candy, wet rock, and candied green apple. There is consistency to the palate, with more candied lime, green apple, and a delicate salinity, with the dosage rounding things out nicely, This is a fantastic aperitif with an energetic mousse that is versatile and fresh to drink now or over the coming 10 years.”
 
Pierre Peters ‘Reserve Oubliee’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $125 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The NV Champagne Reserve Oubilée Brut takes on more depth and lightly smoky aromas, with fresh bread dough and a hint of savory application as well as a bit of graham cracker or lemon bar. The palate also offers more depth and complexity, with saline and spice. Drink over the next 2 decades.”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale ‘Les Chetillons’ Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, Champagne 2015 750ml $289 pre-arrival special, only 10 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The 2015 Champagne Les Chetillons Brut is delicate but expressive, with white flowers and a hint of confectionary sponge cake aromas. It is a pale straw with a shimmering green hue. Coming off the heels of the 2014 vintage, this is comparatively much more generous and open and is a pleasure to drink now. It has its hallmark stamp of Chetillon despite the warmth of the vintage and is not overblown. Drink 2023-2043.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 
Pierre Peters Cuvee Rose for Albane Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $99 pre-arrival special, only 12 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The NV Champagne Rosé For Albane Brut pours a medium pink hue and is expressive with soft floral notes of rose petal, raspberry, and apricot. The palate is juicy and fresh, with a chalky texture and structure as well as more orchard fruit of ripe peach. An incredibly charming wine that is hard to resist, this can carry on its own or throughout a meal. The finish is well-balanced and offers a light saline touch. Drink 2023-2033.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 
On the subject of Champagne…
 
Arriving Late November
 
Louis Roederer Collection 243 Brut, Champagne NV 750ml $59 pre-arrival special
Louis Roederer Collection 243 Brut, Champagne NV 375ml $31.90 pre-arrival special
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The NV Champagne Collection 243 Brut is the third release and is based on the 2018 vintage, with the addition of 30% of the perpetual reserve started in 2012 and 10% reserve wine that has been aged in oak. It is ripe and balanced, with yellow flowers, honeycomb, and plum, and it has elegant concentration and underlying tension, precise mousse, and rich salinity, with lingering notes of croissant and delicate smoke. This will be an exciting wine in the range to follow. Drink 2022-2037.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points “Based on the 2018 vintage and complemented by reserve wines from a solera established in 2012, as well as younger foudre-aged reserve wines, Roederer’s newly released NV Brut Collection 243 is a pillowy, enveloping Champagne evocative of crisp stone fruits, honeycomb, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and generous, with an ample core of fruit, bright acids and a saline finish, it will offer demonstrative drinking on release.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “A vibrant Champagne that’s fine and creamy on the palate, almost plush, but bright and well-balanced throughout. Reveals a chalky base note that underscores layers of ripe pear and nectarine fruit, mandarin orange peel, oyster shell and chamomile. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier. Drink now. 40,000 cases imported.”

 
The Italian Alps are home to some of the most ethereal and mineral driven expressions of wine in the world. Naturally insulated from the rest of the country due to the topography, the villagers practice winemaking exactly as they have for centuries. The area was formed during the shift of the African and Eurasian tectonic plates millions of years ago, creating an incredibly diverse mix of soils.
 
Here are grown alpine expressions of the vaulted Nebbiolo grape, which harken back to Barolo and Barbareso styles of years past. Near the Italian-Swiss border, Ar. Pe. Pe. produces Chiavennasca (the local name for Nebbiolo) from terraced vineyards that have been in their family for generations. Ar. Pe. Pe. is the benchmark producer for the region. Considering the advancement of climate change these wines are well on their way to becoming the next hotbed for Nebbiolo in Italy, as freshness and elegance become more elusive further south.
 
In Stock Now from Ar. Pe. Pe.:
 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Rosso di Valtellina, Lombardy 2019 750ml $36 special, 24+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Ar. Pe. Pe. Rosso di Valtellina, Lombardy 2019 750ml $199 special (that’s only $33.16/bottle!)
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Showing the youthful side of Nebbiolo, this fantastic red from the mountains opens with heady scents of fragrant blue flower, ripe wild berry and camphor. Lithe and bright, the vibrant, delicious palate offers pristine fruit sensations of juicy red cherry, ripe strawberry and baking spice alongside glossy tannins and fresh acidity. A salty mineral note lingers on the close. Enjoy through 2024. –Kerin O’Keefe”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Rosso di Valtellina, Lombardy 2020 750ml $36 special, 23 bottles in stock now
100% Nebbiolo from 50-100 year old vines on the lower slopes of vineyards in Sassella and Grumello .
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. ‘Il Pettirosso’, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2016 750ml $45 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Decanter 93 points “Il Pettirosso, or ‘robin redbreast’, is a dedication to Ar Pe Pe’s founder, Arturo who first created this bottling in 1997. A selection of casks ready to be bottled after relatively minimal ageing, it brings together parcels in the subzones of Sassella and Grumello. Piercing pure rose, cherry blossom and tobacco lead the way to a nucleus of sweet raspberry, red cherry and subtle flintiness. It’s fine-boned in frame and zesty in acidity, with silky-smooth tannins that glide effortlessly across the palate. The epitome of elegance. Drinking Window 2021 – 2028.”

Antonio Galloni 92 points; Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 92 points; Wine Enthusiast 92 points
 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Grumello Riserva Sant’ Antonio, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 750ml $108 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2013 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Sant’Antonio is a bold, pungent wine. Dark red and purplish fruit, lavender, spice, menthol and licorice race across the palate. A deep, vertical Riserva, the 2013 is very young today, but it is so impressive. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s striking inner perfume, sweetness and sheer pedigree.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Sassella Stella Retica, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2015 750ml $45 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “$59. From Sassella, one of the most celebrated villages in the greater Valtellina appellation on the northern bank of the Adda River, this is the quintessential mountain Nebbiolo. Named for the “star of the Rhaetian Alps,” the Ar. Pe. Pe. 2015 Valtellina Superiore Nebbiolo Sassella Stella Retica opens slowly to reveal wild berry, cassis, smoke, tar and crushed granite. The wine is gentle and polished, wrapping smoothly over the senses. It has has ample time to soften in the bottle and is drinking beautifully right now with some Alpine cheese wedges. Some 42,000 bottles were made.”
Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Woodland berry, camphor, wild rose and wet stone aromas shape the nose. The chiseled palate delivers red cherry, cranberry, Alpine herb and star anise set against taut, ultrafine tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2030.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Sassella Ultimi Raggi, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2009 750ml $99 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 points “The 2009 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Ultimi Raggi is beguiling, rich, dense and powerful. Cinnamon, dried dark cherry, leather, smoke and licorice come together in a full-bodied, somewhat rustic wine with no shortage of character. The Ultimi Raggi is made from the last fruit on the vine to ripen, and is therefore sweeter and richer through the mid-palate, with more palate weight and overall density than is found in most of these wines. I loved it.”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 750ml $99 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “The 2013 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Ultimi Raggi is a bit austere. Red purplish fruit, dried herbs, orange peel, spices, rose petals and cinnamon are layered in this exotic, beguiling Valtellina Superiore. Readers will find a wine of terrific energy, with bright acids that run through a tight finish. It’s hard to say for a wine that is nearly ten years old, but the 2013 might still need time!”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Grumello Rocca de Piro, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2015 750ml $49 special, 15 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points “Fruit for this wine comes from the high altitudes of the Rhaetian Alps, where decomposed granite soils make for a dark contrast against brilliant white ice and snow falls. The Ar. Pe. Pe. 2015 Valtellina Superiore Nebbiolo Grumello Rocca de Piro reveals a long succession of dried raspberry, cassis, pressed violets, iron ore and crushed stone. This wine promises to make a terrific pairing with a simple plate of thinly sliced Valtellina bresaola. Some 30,000 bottles were made.”
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “Initially shy, the subtle nose eventually reveals new leather, Alpine herb and wild berry. The savory palate has an understated elegance, offering Marasca cherry, pomegranate and graphite alongside refined tannins. Drink through 2027. -Kerin O’Keefe“
Wine Spectator 92 points “An elegant light- to medium-bodied red, with fine tannins creating a supple frame for flavors wild strawberry, black tea leaf and a ferrous, minerally underpinning. It’s fresh and focused, with a lingering, lightly spiced finish. Drink now through 2030. –AN“
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 750ml $99 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95+ points “One of two late-release wines from Ar. Pe. Pe., the 2013 Valtellina Superiore Grumello Riserva Buon Consiglio is a beautifully light and delicate expression of Nebbiolo with a lean, ruby-tinged appearance. The wine ages to silkiness and extreme suppleness, and I cannot help but notice the unique aromas of toasted hazelnut, mountain flower and balsam herb that rise so delicately from the bouquet. These results are exquisite and ultra delicate, giving the wine a lithe or ethereal personality. What a beauty. Only 6,000 bottles were released.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “A perfumed red, exuding aromas and flavors of crushed raspberry and pureed strawberry, exotic spice and graphite, dried marjoram and thyme. It’s finely knit, with silky tannins and mouthwatering, citrus peel acidity. A graceful version with a lasting, mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 500 cases made, 175 cases imported.  –AN“
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Camphor, wild rose and botanical herbs mingle with a whiff of wet granite. On the elegantly structured, still youthfully austere palate, tight, refined tannins lithely support sour cherry, orange zest and star anise. It’s vibrant and balanced, with bright acidity. Drink 2023–2033. -Kerin O’Keefe”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. “Inferno” Sesto Canto Riserva, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 750ml $99 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “There’s a lovely juiciness to the crushed black raspberry and strawberry fruit on display in this elegant, medium- to full-bodied red, yet sleek tannins are well-integrated and provide fine definition. Fragrant notes of tea leaf, pomegranate and hot stone chime on the silky finish. Drink now through 2033. 500 cases made, 175 cases imported.  –AN”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

 
Ar. Pe. Pe. Sassella Riserva Nuova Regina, Valtellina Superiore DOCG 2013 750ml $99 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Loaded with finesse and energy and still youthfully austere, this linear, structured red offers tart cranberry, blood orange and star anise sensations. A vein of salty mineral provides the backdrop while fine-grained tannins provide elegant structure and support. Racy acidity keeps it balanced. Give it time to fully develop and blossom into even more of a beauty. Drink 2025–2035. -Kerin O’Keefe”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “A release of about 6,000 bottles, the Ar. Pe. Pe. 2013 Valtellina Superiore Riserva Sassella Nuova Regina draws its fruit from terraced vineyards delineated by rocky drywalls. The vines are at least 50 years old and planted in friable metamorphic rock or gneiss shaped by glaciers. This wine is made in a highly traditional manner with extended skin maceration in oak casks, and all the harvest work is done by hand. This is a true beauty with enormous finesse and a deep well of aromatic nuances that center around wild berries, blue flowers and iron ore. The wine is carefully aged with fine and silky tannins. It tastes great, so if you have a bottle you can drink it now or wait longer if that is your pleasure.”

 
What do some of the hardest to find cult Champagne producers (Prevost, Bereche, Dehu & Cedric Bouchard), top names in Loire (Boudignon, Collier & Gerard Boulay), and super-scorer Vincent Paris of Cornas have in common? These are producers brokered by Thomas Calder. If you’ve tried any of the aforementioned estates (and we hope you have), you owe it to yourself to explore the estate he represents in the Southern Rhone: Domaine la Remejeanne. The domaine’s wines represent an absolute bargain (topping out at under $30/bottle) and capture all the elegance and complexity you’d expect from a Calder selection.
 
Run by a father-son team Remy and Oliver Klein in the high elevation village of Sabran, they farm a visually stunning estate of 86 acres directly facing Mount Ventoux and entirely organic to boot. This proximity to the mountain puts the domaine right in the path of the Mistral wind, which cools the air and creates grapes of greater intensity while retaining freshness and acidity. While they fly under the radar of American reviewers, they are well loved in their home country. We adore this estate and know you will, too.
 
“This estate always punches well above its simple Côtes-du-Rhône appellation and are worth seeking out.” –Matt Walls, contributor for Decanter Magazine
 
“All our work is animated by a quest for finesse, elegance and freshness. So our wines constantly reveal ever more and more of the essential characteristics of our terroir.” –Domaine la Remejeanne
 
Domaine la Remejeanne In Stock Now:
 
Domaine la Remejeanne Les Chevrefeuilles Blanc, Cotes du Rhône 2021 750ml $18 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Winery note “[Translated and edited for clarity] This wine shows a clear and limpid color. It presents a fresh and lemony nose. Delicate aromas of white fruits (pear, etc) emerge. On the palate, it opens with a saline note from the Clairette, which brings great vivacity to the Roussanne and Granache Blanc.”
Importer Note “Certified organic. Chèvrefeuille [pronounced: shev-ruh-foy] is French for honeysuckle, the perfume of which you cannot escape during springtime in the southern Rhône. The Klein family is widely respected for their supple and aromatic Côtes du Rhône rouges, and under the tutelage of Olivier Klein the Domaine’s white wines are now reaching the same heights. The prevalence of limestone in the Sabran vineyards certainly helps in this regard, preserving freshness.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 
Domaine la Remejeanne Les Chevrefeuilles, Cotes du Rhône 2018 750ml $16.50 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Importer note “70% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, 5% Carignan, 5% Marselan. Grown on loess over limestone and sandstone on southeast-facing slopes at 250m of altitude.”
Winery note “Ruby red with a nose of fresh fruit, red and black berries, and hints of minty chocolate. On the palate, it is an elegant wine with fine aromas. It is supple with velvety tannins. The freshness gives the wine a delicious and fruity balance.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!