Vinopolis Newsletter – Monday 01-03-22

In This Newsletter:

Re-Arrivals on deck: 

Producer Spotlight: Grand Veneur

Staff Pick:
Agape Cremant D’Alsace


Superb Santa Barbara for a Steal!   

Collector’s Corner:
 Thibaud Boudignon’s Electric Chenin



Re-Arrivals on deck: 


After the explosive success of our half bottles of 2013 Il Poggione Brunello and Tan Fruit lineup, we doubled down and ordered more stock for those who missed out.

You know Maresh for its stunning examples of old-vine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In the spirit of experimentation Jim decided to launch a separate label in order to craft Oregon Chardonnay completely untethered. 

Sourcing from vineyards throughout the Willamette Valley, these represent dry-farmed artistry at its finest. These Chardonnays exhibit a complete and unique showing of Oregon’s terror as well as the varietals reputation for being a “winemaker’s grape”. Regardless of vineyard location, vine age and élevage these are both delightfully accessible now and yet demand further bottle age.

Just arrived: 

Tan Fruit Dux Vineyard Chardonnay, Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 98 points
“The aromas of the 2019 Chardonnay Dux Vineyard are alluring and savory, with ripe peach layers, beeswax, roasted almonds and pastry. The palate has a singular satiny texture and impressive concentration, enlivened by tangy acidity and streaks of graphite and finishing with tremendous length and energy. Wow!”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Tan Fruit Maresh Vineyard Chardonnay, Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 33 bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 97 points
“The 2019 Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard comes from Dijon clones planted in 1991, and it was matured in about 35% new oak. This vintage is pure and tensile, with scents of tarragon and fragrant herbs, beeswax and almonds, with plush white peach fruit. The palate combines intense ripe fruit with a spine of tangy, tense acidity, and it finishes with tremendous length. Allow it another 3-5 years in bottle.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Tan Fruit Oak Grove Vineyard Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 98 points
“The 2019 Chardonnay Oak Grove Vineyard has a unique personality that combines powerful exotic fruit with tangy energy and a shimmery saline quality, derived from a year’s maturation in barrel and then stainless steel. Guava, peaches, lilac and beeswax aromas burst from the glass, and the textural palate, which continues to change and evolve as it spends time in the glass, demands your attention with its rich but precise fruit. This unabashedly hedonistic Chardonnay has the intensity and energy to age well, but that youthful, gregarious fruit is hard to resist!”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Tan Fruit Tank Fruit (Oak Grove Vineyard) Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 99 points
“The Chardonnay Tank Fruit comes from the same Oak Grove fruit as that vineyard designate, but was aged a bit longer, with 12 months in oak and another 12 months in stainless steel. It is pure, ultra perfumed, intense and layered, with alluring white peaches and lilac interwoven with cashews and honeycomb on the nose. The palate derives incredible energy from the push-pull of those deeper tones with salty, energetic acidity, and it finishes with extraordinary length.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Tan Fruit Vojtilla Vineyard Chardonnay, Chehalem Mountains 2019 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 97 points
“Vojtilla is a small, four-acre vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains that sits at around 500 to 600 feet in elevation and, says Jim Maresh, is influenced by the nearby Willamette River. Harvested in October this vintage, the 2019 Chardonnay Vojtilla Vineyard comes from Dijon clone vines planted in 1991, and it was matured in about 25% new Damy barrels. It has a stunning perfume of quince paste and mushrooms, pastry and flowers, and the palate is satiny, plush and pure, with a seamless tangy streak and long, powerful finish.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Arriving Tuesday, January 4th, 2022 : 

For those unfamiliar with the wines of Il Poggione, let’s catch you up quickly. They’re a classic Brunello producer working with very traditional methods in the subzone of Sant’Angelo in Colle, a region that tends to produce wines with big, bold personalities. The results are both crowd pleasing (rich fruit, up front aromatics) and intellectually stimulating (age-worthy, not obstructed by new oak) in way that’s unique in Brunello –outside of names that trade for significantly more money per bottle. Il Poggione’s Brunello is contradictory in all the best ways. It’s an age-worthy wine that doesn’t necessarily require aging. And in a half-bottle of one of the finest vintages of the century, there’s no excuse not to pop one now!

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2013 375ML ($39.95) $28 pre-arrival special, 36+ half-bottles in stock now
Case-12 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2013 375ML ($479.95) $299 pre-arrival special (that’s only $24.92/half-bottle!) 
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points
“The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lives up to the impeccable reputation garnered by this estate over the years. This is a profound and beautifully rendered Sangiovese that delivers bold and luscious fruit quality with black cherry and spicy plum at the start. The bouquet follows through with mild oak notes of smoke, tar and toasted nut. There is another aromatic component that includes crushed stone and dried herb or mint. This Brunello shows elegant evolution in the glass and promises a very long aging future ahead. Some 200,000 bottles were made, so it should be easy to locate this excellent wine.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 95 points “Bright red. Pure, refined red cherry and wild strawberry aromas and flavors complicated by sweet spices and aromatic herbs. Deep and multilayered, the wine boasts polished tannins and a harmonious acid spine that lifts and extends the red fruit on the long, suave finish. An essence of Sant’Angelo in Colle with bigger body and palate weight than, for example, the Brunellos of Montosoli, but still sleek and refined as the best wines of Sant’Angelo in Colle can be. The cool-climate-styled 2013 vintage is precisely the type of year in which Il Poggione excels: this lovely, focused wine is the best classico Brunello from Il Poggione in years. Superb.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Producer Spotlight: Grand Veneur

“Grand Veneur is one of the most brilliant estates in Chateauneuf du Pape as well as the force behind the negociant wines sold under the Alain Jaume label. Virtually everything they produce has merit. I can’t say enough about the job Alain Jaume’s two sons, Sebastian and Christophe, have done with this estate. The impeccable attention to detail in the vineyards, the meticulous vinification, and the careful bottling benefit every consumer.” – Robert Parker 

Alain Jaume’s Domaine Grand Veneur is a trailblazer in Chateauneuf du Pape that continues to make some of the finest wines in the appellation. Their oldest vines that go into their Vielles Vignes have an average age of 100 years old and organically farmed to boot! Year in year out they are some of the most dramatic, powerful and opulent bottlings made in the Southern Rhone, and the prices they charge make them a steal compared to their nearest competitors.

Veneur Wines in stock now: 

Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Rhone 2017 750ML ($119.95) $75 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes Rhone 2017 750ML, ($499.95) $426 special, (That’s only $71 per bottle!)  
Jeb Dunnuck 97+ points
“The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a bigger, richer, more opulent wine. Beautiful notes of blackcurrants, scorched earth, graphite, and crushed violets, all flow to a full-bodied, Châteauneuf Du Pape that has a voluptuous, sexy texture, brilliant depth of fruit, fine tannins, and a purity of fruit that’s hard to find in this vintage. It’s a thrill a minute, and while it’s approachable today, it will keep for 15-20 years. 416 cases.”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 96 points “As usual, the Vieilles Vignes takes things to another level. The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes—a blend of 45% each Grenache (aged in concrete) and Mourvèdre (aged in new barriques), plus 10% Syrah (also in new wood)—features intense aromas of purple raspberries, black cherries and plums, plus the merest hints of vanilla and baking spices. Full-bodied, lush and creamy on the palate, it somehow remains balanced and fresh, with tremendous length on the finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.”
Wine & Spirits 96 points “The Jaume family has been growing grapes in Chateauneuf-du-Pape since 1826; they now own four Rhone wineries, including Domaine Grand Veneur, established in 1976. This wine comes off the estate’s oldest vines, a blend of half Grenache, the rest mourvedre, syrah and small bits of other varieties, all the parcels farmed organically. It’s a stunning wine, exuberantly fresh in its red-berry flavors while sophisticated in its detail, weaving in notes of licorice and pepper, flowers and wood spice. Even after the bottle has been open for a couple of days, the wine’s freshness doesn’t flag, the smooth, fine tannins holding it steady. This should age well for a decade at least.”
Decanter 96 points “Grown on galets, the fruit for this wine is all destemmed and fermented in stainless steel before being aged for 16 months, half in concrete and half in new barriques. The strong Mourvèdre component comes through as deep, ripe dark fruits and violets. It’s full-bodied and dense with soft, lush tannins, and is held together by a beam of strong acidity, finishing long. A lithe, muscular, impressive wine that will last the course. Just 5,000 bottles made.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Miocene Rouge Rhone 2017 750ML ($49.95) $36 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Miocene Rouge Rhone 2017 750ML ($249.95) $199 special, (That’s only $33.16 per bottle!) 
Case-12 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Miocene Rouge Rhone 2017 750ML ($419.95) $385 special, (That’s only $32.08 per bottle!) 
Wine & Spirits 93 points
“This is named for the period of time when the Rhone River sluiced its way from the Alps through Chateauneuf, leaving behind a plateau paved with the baseball-sized stones as the water retreated. Those “galets” are said to help the vines ripen their fruit in this northern sector of the appellation, the stones emanating the sun’s heat. This wine reflects both a spring-like coolness in its spicy, savory herbal notes and a warmth in its lush purple fruit. It’s spicy and firm, with a little bit of grip to the tannins that suggests this could benefit from aging in bottle for a few more years.”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 93 points “Another stellar vintage for this cuvée, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Miocene is a classic blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre from a mix of soil types, aged in older barrels and concrete tanks. It’s ripe and plummy, with notes of black cherries and licorice, yet there’s also a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and velvety in texture, it’s already approachable but has the substance to age through 2030. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines Rhone 2017 750ML ($69.95) $48 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines Rhone 2017 750ML ($299.95) $269 special, (That’s only $44.83 per bottle)
Case-12 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines Rhone 2017 750ML ($579.95) $519 special, (That’s only $43.25 per bottle) 
Jeb Dunnuck 95+ points
“The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Les Origines takes things up a notch on the serious scale and has a much more concentrated, focused, structured style. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, and the rest Syrah that saw 50% new barrels, it offers a rich, concentrated, focused texture, notes of black raspberries, roasted garrigue, pepper, and tons of minerality, building tannins, and outstanding length. The new oak is beautifully integrated, it’s perfectly balanced, and it’s one of those wines that has a kiss of modern character yet stays firmly planted in the Southern Rhône.”
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “Cellar Selection. In contrast to the sun-drenched red fruit of this producer’s other special cuvée, the Vieilles Vignes, Les Origines is the darker, more sultry sibling. Flavors of crème de cassis and spiced black plums are densely concentrated, almost languorous in mouthfeel, but edged by lifting tones of crushed earth and smoky minerals. It’s still a bit closed in character but should open from 2022 and improve further well through 2030. -Anna Lee C. Iijima”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape les Origines is richer and denser than the entry-level bottling, layering hints of chocolate over black cherries, plums and purple raspberries. A blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre and 20% Syrah, half was aged in new barriques, while the other half stayed in concrete tanks. It’s nearly over the top, being full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a long, plush finish and never-ending waves of flavor on the finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
 

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Staff Pick: Agape Cremant D’Alsace

Looking for a sparkler comparable to Champagne without the ever-rising sticker price? Cremant d’Alsace is a go-to among industry professionals for that reason, and the darling of any brunch attendee. Sourced entirely from biodynamically farmed estate holdings of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc, this is a dead ringer for Champagne proper at first glance. Priced like a Cava and tasting like a Champagne from an Aube grower, this is the deal to pounce on!   

With a slightly aggressive perlage on first pour, there’s a delicious aroma of fry bread and Meyer lemon blossom that fills the immediate area. Fruit character is slightly edged out by minerality but still exhibits a white cherry and strawberry note underscored by a finish of almond paste and Fuji apple skin. There’s a long, saline finish that speaks to the clay marl that makes up the dominant soil type of the estate and Alsatian terroir in general.   

In stock now: 

Domaine l’Agape Emotion Cremant d’Alsace France  NV 750ML ($24.95) $19 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 92 points
“Wet chalk, tender apple and lot of lemon freshness appear on the nose of this wine. These notions are bound up on the palate in a mellow creaminess. It’s understated and elegant, with lots of fine fruit. The finish is dry and very moreish in its rounded way. -Anne Krebiehl MW”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

We carry sparkling wines from around the world including California Sparkling, Italian Frizzante and Champagne




Superb Santa Barbara for a Steal!:
Zuni Cafe Chardonnay 

When examining the recent vintages of Santa Barbara, you see everything from the good, bad and ugly. 2019 was a much welcomed “reset” after wildfires and drought seen in previous years with rain in the wintertime restoring ground reserves. That energy continued throughout the season, with the growing year recording exceptionally high acids and low yields. This is music to a winemaker’s ears, as it usually promises flavor intensity and a long life in the bottle.

The 2019 bottling features notes of grilled citrus, lime leaf, sea spray and white flowers. There’s also notes of pine and oregano flower on the 2019 that makes it perfect for any course pairing. We were only able to acquire limited quantities of this vintage, so stock up while it’s here!

Vineyard sources for the Sandhi lineup include the legendary cool climate Bien Nacido, best known by the single vineyard bottlings produced by the Bien Nacido estate, Au Bon Climat, and Qupe Winery, and the world-classic, historic Sanford & Benedict. This Chardonnay is a barrel selection from these illustrious vineyards. It was crafted with the wine director at one of SF’s finest restaurants, Zuni Café. We knew it would be a charming and food-friendly wine, but we were stunned by the quality when we tasted a sample bottle last week. Fans of Evening Land will be dazzled by the beauty and elegance through a Californian lens, fans of Sandhi will be impressed by the price.

In stock now: 

Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($34.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($399.95) $249 special, (That’s only $20.75 per bottle!)
Winery note
“If you’ve ever sat at San Francisco’s iconic Zuni Café with a plate of oysters in front of you while you wait for the iconic whole roast chicken, you may have had a glass or two of this collaboration between longtime friends Rajat Parr of Sandhi and Zuni wine director Thierry Lovato.  The wine is a barrel selection from some of Sandhi’s iconic Sta. Rita Hills sites, (think Mt. Carmel, Sanford & Benedict) with enough own-rooted, 1973 Wente selection Bien Nacido Chardonnay blended in to warrant a Santa Barbara County designation.”

Love Chardonnay? Check out our selection of White Burgundy, Oregon Chardonnay and Californian Chardonnay 



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Collector’s Corner:
 Thibaud Boudignon’s Electric Chenin
Have you ever had a Chenin Blanc from a French cult producer? You’ve heard of Boulay and Dagueneau’s history making Sauvignon Blanc but the Loire has another varietal amongst her crown jewels; Chenin Blanc. Cultivated in the Loire valley since 845, it’s known for being one of the most versatile on the planet; producing benchmark examples of still, sweet and sparkling wines with incredible longevity in the bottle. Across these styles you find an entire spectrum of Pomme fruit flavors, that can resemble green apples at their leanest to honeycrisp and quince at their most developed with an unshakable core of acid not unlike a well-made Riesling out of Germany. 

In spite of this pedigree the world is only just starting to discover these works of art from the Loire, with producers like Boudignon leading a new generation that are taking Chenin Blanc to new heights. Originally from Bordeaux, Thibaud Boudignon made a name for himself working in Burgundy at the legendary house, Philippe Charlopin. This tutelage is clearly evident in his current work, which features a purity of varietal character and mineral spine rarely seen outside of Burgundy. 

After producing exemplary work at Chateau Soucherie he purchased a small vineyard and initiated biodynamic conversion. His seminal vintage was in 2009 and immediately put him on the map in France, and he’s only gotten better since! His devotion to meticulous farming under biodynamic standards in addition to his masterful technical skill as a winemaker have made him a cult figure almost overnight. We only get small quantities of his wines every year, so get them while you can! 

In stock now: 

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc Loire 2019 750ML ($47.95) $44 special, 23 bottles in stock now
No reviews for the 2019 vintage. 2018 review provided for reference.
Jason Wilson-Vinous 92 points
“Quiet, elegant nose of beeswax, ripe pear and smoke. Rambunctious, lively and textured in the mouth, bursting with grilled lemon and green apple plus notes of salt and smoke, all underpinned by smooth stoniness. A cool, youthful wine that is full of energy.”
Importer note “With a tight core of saline terroir enveloped within ripe medium bodied fruit, this chenin blanc delivers a focused example of Thibaud’s style of ripe fruit matched with elegance and precision.”

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc ‘a Francoise..’ Loire 2019 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Importer note
“Cut like a diamond with clean lines and explosive fruit. Long detailed finish that fans out with a touch of creaminess. Still evolving and will reward the one who has patience. A worthy homage to his mother and grandfather.”
Importer note “Made from his finest plots in Anjou. The wine is named after his late mother, who tragically passed away from cancer when Thibaud was 17 years old. He makes this wine in her honor, without any compromise. If he feels the wine does not live up to his mother’s name, he won’t make it.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Thibaud Boudignon Savennieres Clos de la Hutte Loire 2018 750ML ($119.95) $95 special, 11 bottles in stock now
No reviews available for the 2018 vintage. 2019 review provided for reference.
Rebecca Gibb Mw-Vinous 97 points
“The 2019 Clos de la Hutte is the site that spoke to Boudignon when he arrived in Savennières. Once the site of a monastery, it’s not yet a religious experience drinking this, but it’s not got far to go: there’s a sense of expansion in the mouth, followed by impressive structure, showing its serious intentions and a sense that it’s good enough to eat. There’s an intriguing white floral note alongside pear, followed up with energetic acidity. Excellent texture and sapidity on the finish, providing length and structure. This wine has it all: delicacy and power, structure and refinement. Unfortunately, frosts in 2019 were not kind so there is very little of it to go around.”
Importer note “[A new] addition to Thibaud’s range of Chenin Blanc comes from a half hectare plot within the Clos de la Hutte (1.5ha) lieu-dit. The vines are young but the wine is profound.  There is a long history to this site and Thibaud is channeling every bit of it here.  The volumes are miniscule –  1000 bottles released.”
Importer note “Clos de la Hutte is situated in the commune of La Poissonnière; the Clos de la Hutte is an ancient religious site of 7 hectares, of which 2.6 are planted with vines. At the heart of this ancient monastery are vines produced from a massal selection of Chenin Blanc coming from the best domaines of the Loire. 5 different varieties of Chenin were planted together so as to best express the intensity and singularity of this special place. 50% vinified in oval demi muid, 25% in 320 liter cigars, and 25% in 500 liter. The ageing last one year in wood and a minimum of 3 months in stainless steel. The Clos de la Hutte seduces with its aromatic finesse and the intense minerality in the mouth.” 

Thibaud Boudignon Savennieres Clos de Fremine Loire 2019 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 15 bottles in stock now
Rebecca Gibb Mw- Vinous 95 points
“An elegant and pure style that offers a delightful silken texture. The 2019 Clos de Fremine floats delicately, almost as if you are tasting a cloud, despite containing plenty of intensity in its focused core of fruit. There’s a burst of fresh acidity and a bristle of fine-grained texture; whether that’s the tannin or the soil, it’s there on the finish. I could tell you it tastes of apples and citrus, but this is a wine that seems to care less about fruit descriptors and more about the essence of its place.”
Importer note “Just across a small road from Clos de la Hutte, in the hamlet of Poissonnière, Clos Frémine is an exciting addition to Thibaud’s stunning Savennières lineup. Just like it’s famed neighbor, the vineyard sits on pure schist that is found only 20cm below the surface. There is a bit more sand at the base of this site, which provides the wine with a delicate lift and added layer of elegance.”

New Vintage arriving This Spring, 2022: 

Thibaud Boudignon Rose de Loire France 2021 750ML ($27.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Importer note
“While Thibaud has (rightly) become a superstar for his world-class Chenin Blancs, many insiders have discovered one of his best kept-secrets: rosé. Made from a plot of Cabernet Franc and Grolleau in Anjou that he simply could not pass up the opportunity to work with, this is one of the most saline and mineral rosés we have ever come across. 80% Cabernet Franc, 20% Grolleau. Shallow soils of grey schist and rhyolite (volcanic soil) and clay. Indigenous yeast fermentation. No malo. Direct press rosé. Aged in stainless steel. A noble, supremely saline rosé. Delicate texture. Made like a white wine to preserve salinity and structure.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Thibaud Boudignon Savennieres Clos de Fremine Loire 2020 750ML ($99.95) $85 pre-arrival special

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc ‘a Francoise..’ Loire 2020 750ML ($79.95) $66 pre-arrival special
Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc ‘a Francoise..’ Loire 2020 1.5L ($149.95) $129 pre-arrival special


This is the only listing in the USA today!

Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc Loire 2020 750ML ($47.95) $44 pre-arrival special
Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Blanc Loire 2020 1.5L ($99.95) $89 pre-arrival special


This is the only listing in the USA today!

Love Loire Wines? We carry producers like Guiberteau, Huet and Dagueneau!



Thank you from the team at Vinopolis!

Be well & drink well.