Vinopolis Newsletter – Friday 11/10/2023

 In This Newsletter:

Special Arrival
Quilceda Creek
Arrivals
Crowley, Clouet, Huet, Domaine de Villaine, Jadot, Kelley Fox, and more!
Recently Reviewed

More love for Andre Clouet Brut Reserve

Close-out Sales
These Odds are Good– 6 Vinopolis deep cuts
Special Collector’s Arrival

Kopke: What’s the oldest bottle in your collection?
Special Arrival
 
It’s kind of a big deal… this is the wine that put Washington on the fine wine radar. Founded by Alex Golitzin, the nephew of Napa Valley’s original wine whisperer Andre Tchelistcheff, they were encouraged to focus on perfecting just one wine. Alex chose Cabernet Sauvignon. Quilceda Creek has represented our country at White House dinners and has received numerous perfect 100 point scores from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, six of which belong to their flagship Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
 
“Year after year, the Columbia Valley Cabernet is one of the most impressive wines, and there is no exception here, as it combines all the wonderful qualities of the 2020 vintage from Quilceda Creek into one expression.” –International Wine Report

Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2020 750ml $219 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with a lush, silky, rich, round nose with fresh and ripe notes that seduce and delight. Full-bodied, fresh and yet still tight, the wine offers a balanced structure and lifting tannins that elevate the mid-palate followed by juicy, fruit-forward layers and delightful oak spices. The Cabernet continues to show its depth and breadth, compounding its natural beauty. The Cabernet lingers on the ever-evolving, food-friendly finish and will benefit from another two years of bottle aging. The wine rested for 22 months in 100% new French oak. 5,450 cases produced.”
James Suckling 98 points “Beautiful fruit concentration with blackberries, blackcurrants, dark chocolate and red licorice. Encompassing and wide on the palate. Waves of plush, finely grained tannins come through, pushing the depth and unveiling dark fruit that is ripe and delicious. Salty undertones, too. Beautiful now, but better after 2026.”
Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points “The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley is all Cabernet Sauvignon that’s mostly from the Champoux Vineyard, with 10% from the Mach One Vineyard, which was planted in 2012. A big, ripe, opulent red, it has terrific aromatics of black currants, smoked tobacco, graphite, and loamy earth, medium to full-bodied richness, a round, opulent mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a heady finish. It doesn’t match the all-time greats from this team, but it’s deep, rich, and clearly up with the crème de la crème of the vintage.”

New Arrivals
 
“Screaming Eagle”
 
The Eagle has landed! The original Napa cult winery, Screaming Eagle’s quality was already a poorly kept secret among oenophiles before a perfect 100 point review by Robert Parker launched its reputation into the stratosphere. Since then it has become almost impossible to track down a bottle, let alone a case. Well lucky us! We managed to get a tiny amount of it, this won’t last long!
 
Screaming Eagle ‘The Flight’, Napa Valley 2020 750ml $1079 special, 3 bottles available
Case-3 Screaming Eagle ‘The Flight’, Napa Valley 2020 750ml $2,999 special, 1 case available [that’s $999.67/bottle]
James Suckling 98 Points “Aromas of blackberries, red and black currants. Green olives, too. Dark roses and perfume. Medium-bodied with super crunchy energy and brightness. Very fine tannins. Elegant and precise. So subtle and complex, it’s really something. A blend of 64% merlot and 36% cabernet sauvignon. Needs four to five years to open and come together.”

“Crowley Wines”
 
Crowley ‘Helen’ Four Winds Vineyard Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2021 750ml $49 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Note “Draper block selection will define Helen. Picked early and pressed green to match this salty and minerally material, Helen’s fermentation is long and spontaneous. To emphasize immediacy, we remove from barrel after 11 months and store in tank for the remaining 7. Color is vibrant straw and green, clarity shimmers. Nose is austere, dominated by citrus, tangerine, and lemon. Brioche richens things up as does hints of cream. Palate is clean and ripe and a mix of savory spice and oak fill out the body on the way to its supple finish. Meursault came to mind with this wine.
 
Crowley Sojeau Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2021 750ml $49 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Note “This wine opens with bold aromas of dried raspberries and cacao powder. Dusty scents morph into graphite, sage and plum as the wine opens up. On the palate, the wine drinks surprisingly lithe and light with flavors of lingonberry, plum preserve and RC Cola. The finish is long with acidity and fine tannins supporting one another in balanced tension. This wine is young and fun to drink now, but will also benefit from a few years of cellaring.
 
Crowley Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2022 750ml $26 special, 36+ bottles available
Winery Note “Eye catching clarity meets garnet edges mixed with crimson. Lucid and fresh, the nose displays crunchy aromatics, cranberry and pomegranate mixed with herb and citrus. Palate is smooth and elegant, showing an intriguing wax component combined with powdered fine grain tannins. Taut edging defines the flavors as sweetly elegant and delicate. Lithe and lively, strawberry, and warm spice carry the sweet spot while forest floor and autumn leaves bring in the earthen complexity. This wine stays upright and coiled as the phenolics are spread perfectly from start to finish.”
 
Champagne
 
Andre Clouet ‘Dream Vintage’ Brut, Champagne 2006 750ml $75 special, 12 bottles available
James Suckling 95 Points “A rich and almost opulent champagne for lovers of mature chardonnay. As much melted butter as candied-lemon and orange character. Glides over the palate into the very silky finish, the touch of salinity creating a wonderful tension with the creaminess. 100% chardonnay. Drink or hold.”
 
Pierre Moncuit Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Millesime, Champagne 2008 $79 special, 28 bottles available
Importer’s note These are quintessential examples of Blanc de Blancs Champagne, with racy, mineral-laden palates, and youthful fruit expressions that makes them wines to enjoy right out of the blocks and for years to come.
 
France

“Domaine de Villaine”
 
The winery began as a side project for Aubert de Villaine of Domaine Romanee-Conti fame. Tucked between Chassagne-Montrachet and Santenay to the north and Rully and Mercurey to the south in Bouzeron, they are in an enviable position to produce wines from multiple nearby regions. With Aubert’s NephewPierre de Benoist now running the show, this family winery continues to produce fantastic burgundies at great value, as these library releases show.
 
A.& P. de Villaine Bourgogne, Cote Chalonnaise La Digoine 2015 750ml $59 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “A pretty red, delivering strawberry, raspberry and floral notes, with flourishes of spice and mineral. This is elegant and firm, offering saturated flavors that persist on the long aftertaste. Drink now through 2027. 200 cases imported.”

A.& P. de Villaine Bourgogne, Cote Chalonnaise La Digoine 2016 750ml $59 special, 11 bottles available
Vinous “Domaine de Villaine is run by Aubert de Villaine’s nephew. I have been tasting the wines for a few years and they are quite simply, superb. They come highly recommended.”

A.& P. de Villaine Bourgogne, Cote Chalonnaise La Digoine 2017 750ml $59 special, 8 bottles available
Wine Advocate “The 2017 Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise La Digoine opens in the glass with a reserved bouquet of smoky blackberries, raspberries and bay leaf, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and supple palate that’s open and charming, concluding with a spice-inflected finish.”
 
“Domaine Huet”
 
Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Haut Lieu 2016 750ml $44.50 special, 9 bottles available
Jancis Robinson 17/20 “Already has the lanolin character very prominently on the nose, then fairly light-bodied fruit with a ripe, tropical citrus character, plus a bit of peach. Perhaps a little brief, but has lovely typical Chenin funkiness. Drink 2017-2022.”
Wine Advocate 90 Points “From the nine-hectare original vineyard of the Huet family, the 2016 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec shows a citrus color followed by an intense, fresh and chalky-mineral bouquet with lemon and some blossom aromas. Aged in demi-muids and bottled in April 2017, this is a medium-bodied, round, elegant, remarkably lush and delicate Chenin Blanc from calcareous clay soils. The residual sugar of seven grams per liter gives a beautiful exotic fruitiness and balance, the fine tannins a good structure. The 2016 is truly a pleasant Vouvray that already drinks perfectly. Tasted February 2018.”
 
Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Haut Lieu 2019 750ml $39 special, 12 bottles available
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 95 Points “The deep brown clay soils of the Haut-Lieu plateau provide the typical fruitiness and freshness wonderfully in Huet’s 2019 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Sec. Ripe pear, tangerine and orange fruits with notes of lemon grass and green pimientos intertwined with very fine chalky and later tobacco notes give a remarkably fine, elegant and harmonious, subtly complex and simply gorgeous bouquet with floral (lime blossom!) and yeasty aromas that are immediately attractive. Delicate and linear on the palate, this is a pure, fresh, bone-dry, lean and textured, highly refined and perfectly interwoven Chenin with persistent purity, finesse, salty-mineral tension and very fine tannins. Highly finessed and so pure and vivacious! This is a chalky picture-book Haut-Lieu that can age for many years, even though it is already dangerously seductive! There was no dry Le Haut-Lieu produced in 2018, but the 2019 is possibly the finest, most delicate and elegant I’ve had in recent years, at least at this early stage. A terrific and buoyant Vouvray that any Chenin lover should try—or, better yet, cellar! 13% alcohol. 80,000 bottles made. Tasted in July 2020.”
 
Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2016 750ml $41.90 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 Points “Green plum and verbena notes lead the way for now, with a flash of quinine on the finish. This is juicy, but still a bit compact overall, with the core of ample pear, quince and ginger flavors in reserve. Just wait for everything to knit together and stretch out, as the purity and length are there. Best from 2018 through 2028.”
 
Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont 2020 750ml $41.90 special, 12 bottles available
Rebecca Gibbs Mw-Vinous 96 Points “White flowers, pineapple and just-ripe pear combine in the 2020 Le Mont Sec from Huet, which offers just enough youthful puppy fat on the concentrated midpalate before finishing with mouthwatering acidity providing precision and line. It delivers intensity of fruit, yet it’s light on its feet. Fine phenolics offer a delicate but self-assured sense of structure and poise. Delightfully balanced, and better a day after opening.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 95 Points “The only dry wine from the vintage is the 2020 Vouvray Le Mont Sec, whose tank sample shows a classy, pure, precise and chalky/lemony bouquet with bright and perfectly healthy fruit and some herbal as well as yeasty aromas. On the palate, this is a dense, fabulously juicy, fruity and elegant Chenin whose immediate attraction and pure finesse initially reminds me of Riesling, whereas the texture is too rich and the salty and finely tannic finish too intense and powerful for Riesling. With more aeration, the Le Mont gets more and more intense and complex but also, tannic-wise, more wild. The 2020 has great tension, energy and grip and is highly promising. Tasted a few days before bottling in April 2021.”
 
Italy
 
“Trediberri”
 
“Here is one of the hidden gems among La Morra Barolo producers. Nicola Oberto, an energetic, affable vintner, manages this winery, situated on the road amidst the Rocche dell’Annunizata and Torriglione vineyards in Annunziata […] If you want a clear representation of what a Rocche dell’Annunziata Barolo is all about, the offering from Trediberri is a wine you need to seek out.” -Tom Hyland, Forbes
 
Trediberri Rocche dell’Annunziata, Barolo DOCG 2019 750ml $89 pre-arrival special
Trediberri Rocche dell’Annunziata, Barolo DOCG 2019 1.5L $219 pre-arrival special
Vinous 95 Points “The 2019 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata is the best wine I have tasted yet from Nicola and Stefania Oberto. The biggest change here in recent years is the elimination of small oak in favor of casks, a move that really allows the full character of Rocche dell’Annunziata to come through. Dark cherry, kirsch, hard candy, rose petal and mint are all amplified in this gorgeous, translucent Barolo. A range of perfumed, floral accents lifts the intensely aromatic finish.”
 
“Bartolo Mascarello”

Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont 2018 750ml $119 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni- Vinous “The 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo offers plenty of charm and immediacy. Dark cherry, spice, tobacco and leather are nicely pushed forward. There is plenty to like in the 2018, even if the Nebbiolo does not reach the heights of the very best editions.”
 
Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont 2019 750ml $114.5 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni- Vinous “What a joy it is to taste Maria Teresa Mascarello’s 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo. Bright and effusive, with gorgeous fruit presence, the 2019 is a total knock-out. Sweet red cherry, mint, spice, orange peel and licorice all grace this gorgeous, wonderfully expressive Langhe Nebbiolo.”
 
Arriving Late November
 
“Louis Jadot”
 
Louis Jadot Domaine des Heritiers Corton Pougets Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2021 750ml $169 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin-Vinous 94-96 Points “The 2021 Corton-Pougets Grand Cru has a wonderful bouquet with transparent red cherry, raspberry and floral notes. This wine is classy and seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins. It’s lithe and agile in the mouth with a mineral undertow towards the finish. Often one of Jadot’s classiest offerings, this Pougets is no different and one of their stars in 2021.”
 
Louis Jadot Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2021 750ml $649 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin-Vinous 94-96 Points “The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has one of the finest aromatics from Jadot this year with a seductive bouquet of wild strawberry, blueberry, sous-bois and hints of Earl Grey and wilted rose petals. Wonderful. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and crisp acidity. It’s taut and fresh with a touch of spice toward the cohesive and persistent finish. This is a superb effort in such a challenging growing season.”
 
Louis Jadot Domaine Gagey Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2021 750ml $499 pre-arrival special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93-95 Points “Pure and elegant, the 2021 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru (Domaine Gagey) opens in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, cherries, rose petals, spices and raw cocoa. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, saline finish, it has turned out beautifully.”
Decanter 94 Points “Lovely ripe cherry fruit with floral and spice notes and a bit of smoke and toast introduce this marvelous wine, one of the signal successes among the Jadot reds in the 2021 vintage. The wine is one of finesse and elegance; on the palate there is vivacious fresh acidity, but enough density to be substantial and long without being imposing. The wine is produced from the 0.17-hectare parcel in the original Clos St-Denis lieu-dit owned by Domaine André Gagey and farmed under a long-term contract by Jadot.”
 
Louis Jadot Meursault-Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2021 750ml $135 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 94 Points “A wonderfully mineral, sleek and focused Meursault with aromas of lemons, white pears, apricots, flint and some white pepper. Medium- to full-bodied, creamy but so bright, with chalky minerality coming through. Drink or hold.”
 
Re-Arrival
 
Kelley Fox Wines Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley 2022 750ml $36 special, 24 bottles available
Winery Notes “This wine was produced from the storied Freedom Hill Vineyard in Dallas (bordering the Eola-Hills A.V.A.) and was planted, owned, and farmed by the Dusschee family. The soil here is Bellpine, a marine sedimentary silt clay loam that is well-drained. The Pinot blanc was whole cluster-pressed after picking. It settled in tank for a couple of days before racking and this year, after primary, it was racked into a stainless tank for élevage until bottling. This wine is dry and ML-complete.”
 
“The colour is a highly transparent, pale, brilliant lemon-yellow. The nose is full of subtle creamy citrus and tropical fruits with a hint of floral tones and powdery minerals and is incredibly inviting. The texture is light on its feet but has lovely heft. The mouth is much like the nose and is balanced with lovely tension and texture. This Pinot blanc is very clean on the palate, and long. I love how this turned out: the energy of ocean-fresh air and delicious fruit.”
 

Recently Reviewed


 
Andre Clouet Brut Grande Reserve NV 750ml $39 special, 36+ bottles available
Andre Clouet Brut Grande Reserve NV 1.5L $89 special, 9 magnums available
Andre Clouet Brut Grande Reserve NV 3L $279 special, 5 bottles available
Grapelive 93 points “The Pinot Noir based Grande Réserve Brut non-vintage by The André Clouet Champagne house is a gem with a sense of maturity and nobility in the glass with loads of brioche, hazelnut and clove notes along with baked apple, preserved lemon and quince fruit on the creamy, but energetic palate. There’s a lot to love in the current disgorgement, with its secondary tertiary background and fine structure, as well as the dry feel here, it is showing excellent and is a rewarding bubbly. Clouet’s Grande Réserve is crafted using 70% of younger wine that sees 36 months on the lees, along with a high dose, 30% of Reserve wine from good years and extra aged in mostly tank, though with about 5% seeing wood, just for an added sense of rich luxuriousness. Jean-François Clouet winegrower and cellar master has specialized in mainly Pinot Noir led cuvées and has a combination of Grand Cru sites to draw from to produce his elegant and age worthy Champagne, even in his non-vintage bottlings like this one.
 
The Andre Clouet Champagne house, founded back in 1741, is run by the noted Jean-François Clouet, who was born and raised in a Bouzy and still lives in the family’s 18th century village house built by his ancestors and, as mentioned before, this house is a grower producer that strives to continue the regions tradition, but still is driven to elevate the quality levels here. The Clouet family farms some incredible Grand Cru plots around their home village of a Bouzy, as well as in the famous and very coveted middle slopes of Ambonnay, with vines in the very best lieux-dits in the Champagne region. While great for celebrating events and special occasions, this Andre Clouet Grande Réserve, with its high percentage of aged base feels like a perfectly mature vintage bottle, but with beautiful and vivid mouse, making for a lovely bubbly goes sublimely well with food and is a noble companion with any meal. I have always been impressed by Clouet’s lineup of Champagne(s), but especially so, when it comes to this stylish zero dosage Silver label Blanc de Noirs, as well as the fresher Brut Rosé and this Grande Réserve, all of which which I highly recommend!”

6 Italian Reds Under 25 Dollars
 
Muri-Gries Sudtirol St. Magdalener, Trentino-Alto Adige 2021 750ml $16 special, 34 bottles available
Winery Note “The Bolzano original. The Santa Maddalena is the Bolzano variety of the Schiava wines. The name comes from the village of St. Magdalena (S. Maddalena) above Bolzano. An attractive cuvée of Schiava and Lagrein, combining fruit and freshness with intensive color and clear structure. Our St. Magdalener does justice to a wide range of dishes – from roast beef and savory dumplings to pizza and pasta dishes.”
 
D’Angelo Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata 2019 750ml $21.90 special, 14 bottles available
#49 – TOP 100 WINE OF 2022
Wine Spectator 91 Points “Compact and fresh, this medium- to full-bodied red reveals macerated black raspberry fruit accented by notes of dried sage, graphite, fig cake and mineral, with firm, dusty tannins. Let this open in the glass or decant ahead of time. Best from 2023 through 2029. 7,000 cases made, 2,500 cases imported.”
 
Tenuta Fanti Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 750ml $17.50 special, 26 bottles available
Eric Guido- Vinous 89 Points “The extroverted 2018 Fanti Rosso di Montalcino is showing masses of ripe strawberry, sweet spices and exotic florals with grounding notes of worn leather and hints of undergrowth. Silky textures meld into tart red berries with a peppery-herbal twist, in a soft and easygoing effort that’s energized by bright acids that only come forward toward the finale. A mix of red fruits resonate on the finish, along with wild herbs and florals, punctuating the experience on a Rosso that is very easy to like.”
 
Musto Carmelitano Maschitano Rosso Basilicata IGT 2017 750ml $16 special, 21 bottles available
Vinous 92+ Points “The 2017 Aglianico del Vulture Maschitano Rosso lifts from the glass with a rich and darkly alluring mix of crushed plums and blackberries complemented by nuances of lavender, violets and a dusting of exotic spice. While silky, almost creamy in feel, there’s a core of saline-minerals and bright acidity that adds riveting tension, as tart wild berries mix with a twang of sour citrus and wild herbal tones. This thrilling, young Aglianico finishes long and lightly structured, keeping the energy high with a sweet-and-sour tug of dark fruits and hints of blood orange that linger impossibly long. The 2017 Maschitano Rosso is the total package, yet it comes from the youngest vines of the estate and represents the most accessible of the Musto Carmelitano portfolio.” -Eric Guido
 
Villa Papiano ‘I Probi di Papiano’ Sangiovese di Romagna Riserva, Emilia-Romagna 750ml $21.90 special, 15 bottles available
Vinous 91 Points “Here I’m finding a spicy display of crushed tart cherry and wild herbs, complemented by white pepper, roses, earthy mineral notes and a hint of animal musk. Pure wild berry fruits, minerals and youthful tannin all build in the glass. The finish is long, showing youthful grip, yet also energized by lingering acids and spicy red fruits. The 2016 I Probi di Papiano Sangiovese Riserva is simply a pleasure to taste.” -Eric Guido
 
Calabretta ‘Gaio Gaio’ Rosso, Sicily 2020 750ml $19 special, 29 bottles available
Vinopolis Lighter red, this is the everyday option for one of Siciliy’s finest producers. This 100% Mascalese wine is perfect for pizza and red sauces of all kinds.
Close-out Sales

Odd-n-Ends
 
But these Odds are Good!
 
Astruc D’a Malbec 2019 750ml WAS $16 NOW $11.90 special, 17 bottles available
Astruc D’a Malbec 2019 CASE-12 750ml  WAS $179 NOW $128 special 5 cases available
Winery Note “Malbec originated in South West France, so is very at home in this environment. A smooth and balanced Malbec from the Limoux area in South West France. Soft, ripe plummy fruit, with hints of smoke and spice. Ripe black cherries and plums come through on the nose. The palate is smooth and silky in texture, with warm layers of black fruits and waves of spice. If you like Argentinian Malbecs you will love this.”
 
Alpha Estate Sauvignon Blanc Greece 2021 750ml WAS $36 NOW $21.90 special, 13 bottles available
Importer Note “100% Sauvignon Blanc grown on the sandy, high-altitude (620-710m ASL) plateau of Amyndeon. Some skin contact, depending on the vintage, followed by fermentation in temperature-controlled steel tank and four months’ of sur-lie aging with regular stirring.”
 
Cameron White Oak Orchard Cidre 2021 750ml WAS $28 NOW $25 special, 14 bottles available
Winery Note “It’s dry but not overly sharp and has a round fruity body that dances on your tongue with apple tannins and a liesy finish.  The nose is filled with aromas of apple blossom and roses.  Pair it with salty cheeses and charcuterie and almonds or just enjoy it at your next summer cookout!”
 
Cantina Horus Corda Pazza Rosso 2020 750ml WAS $29 NOW $24 special, 21 bottles available
Importer Notes “La Corda Pazza” was the title of a book published in 1970 by Leonardo Sciascia, a Sicilian by birth who was an influential critic, public intellectual, and playwright. It is an in-depth exploration of Sicily’s unique history and culture, one made more exceptional (and insular) due to its island geography “a crazy chord,” or corda pazza, of influences exerted by generations of invaders and colonizers. What the wine version of La Corda Pazza is meant to express is a proud, inimitable Sicilian-ness, or what Sciascia called Sicilitudine. So, that’s our word of the day, friends: Sicilitudine (see-chee-lee-TU-dee-nay). It means Sicilian first, Italian second, and, despite the presence of Syrah in the blend, “international” a very distant third. It’s a wine that, like the essay it’s named for, dives deep into what it means to be Sicilian.”
 
Gramona Mart Rosat Xarel-Lo Vermell Penedes 2020 750ml WAS $26 NOW $24 special, 13 bottles available
Eric Solomon Imports Note “Xarel-lo, Vermell Certified organic CCPAE and biodynamic DEMETER. The pale color of this rosé comes from a 48-hour maceration before pressing. With this additional skin contact, combined with the already high levels of antioxidants present in the juice of this variety, Mart cannot only be enjoyed in its youth (peaches and strawberries) but it has the capacity to develop for several years in the bottle as more pink peppercorn nuances emerge.”
Region: Penedes, Spain
 
Ovum Rare Form Day Moon Brut Nature NV 750ml WAS $59 NOW $49 special, 24 bottles available
Winery note “Day Moon is inspired by aged Blanc de Blanc Champagne. Striking straw gold color with a modest, fine mousse. An inviting nose of fresh brioche with a small pad of salted butter and lemon confit. Dried wildflower, straw and ginger follow. Pure energy races as the palate unfolds elegant layers of dried flowers and minerals. The restrained mousse is in harmony with the noticeably long, nutty finish. Native fermentation is completed in amphora, where it is then racked to age in neutral French oak for 1-2 years. Ksenija uses Riesling juice to build a yeast population that she will use to tirage the base wine at a specific atmosphere of pressure designed to match the vinosity of the wine (Day Moon: 3 bar). Minimum 18 months of bottle age on less, additional 6 months age post disgorgement. Brut Nature – 2gL dosage made from aged Riesling. *No added sulfites.”
 
Stein Cabernet Sauvignon Vom Berg 2018 750ml WAS $49 NOW $39 special, 23 bottles available
Importer Note “Steep slate soils; sourced from multiple vineyards throughout the village; 25 y.o. vines; élevage in old barriques.”
 
Special Collector’s Arrival
What’s the oldest bottle in your collection?


New Arrival!
 
Kopke 50 Year Tawny Port 750ml $219 special, 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 98 Points “The NV 50 Year Old Tawny Port was bottled in May 2022 with 134 grams of residual sugar and a bar-top cork. This is an entrant in the new age-indicated category of 50; it no longer stops at 40. I thought the 50 Year white was fabulous. Its Tawny brother is as good or better. It doesn’t have the brightness of the white in terms of acidity (the fruit doesn’t taste old in terms of decay, so don’t misunderstand), but it is richer, lusher and more flavorful. There’s a touch of nuts, caramel and spice. It also has a long, long finish, which is what I would expect from an old Tawny in top form. Kopke did a great job with the blend here. This is completely delicious, smooth and balanced, juicy on the finish. Which is better? Depends on what you like, and it is worth getting some of each. For wines this old, the prices are reasonable. They are both great experiences.”
 
Arriving Late November
 
Kopke 30 Year Tawny Port 750ml $119 pre-arrival special, 12 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 Points “A very inviting, open style, with butterscotch and caramel notes framing the core of glazed pear, caramelized peach, golden raisin and warm fig flavors. The lush finish lets crème brûlée and ginger cream details hang, showing a flash of honeysuckle for lift. Drink now. 200 cases imported.”
Wine Advocate 93 Points “The NV 30 Year Old Tawny Port  was bottled in 2017 with a bar-top cork and 130 grams per liter of residual sugar. The last release I saw of this was pretty fine. So, too, here. This adds a layer of depth and more complexity to the Burmester, although it lacks the Burmester’s elegance and sex appeal. While the finish here is bigger and more gripping, it is no more flavorful (actually, less so). Still, as this rolls around the mouth, it is impressive, not necessarily more exciting than the Burmester, but definitely different stylistically. They are good examples of the diversity you can get in one portfolio. As always, these last indefinitely, barring cork failures, but they are not really meant to be held.”
 
Kopke 40 Year Tawny Port 750ml $199 pre-arrival special, 6 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 Points “This offers a dreamy mix of caramelized pear, fig and peach flavors at the core, while caramel, sesame oil and date notes fill in through the expansive finish. At first glance this is quite lush, but the finish lingers with cut and drive. Drink now. 200 cases imported.”
Wine Advocate 93 Points “The NV 40 Year Old Tawny Port was bottled in 2016 with a bar top cork and 145 grams per liter of residual sugar. This adds a bit more brandy as a nuance on the finish to the 30, reviewed this issue, but it still seems much like the 30 Year Old, surprisingly fresh and easy, beautifully balanced and on the lighter side in terms of mid-palate concentration. It is a lovely tawny on its own terms–I’m just not sure it delivers enough of an uptick to justify the price spike from the 30 (or, perhaps even the 20). On its own, though, it won’t disappoint. The price references a 750 milliliter bottle.”
 
Kopke Colheita Port 1966 750ml $249 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 Points “The 1966 Colheita Tawny Port was bottled in 2015 with 126.3 grams per liter of residual sugar, and comes with a bar top cork (as is typical here). As we start getting seriously old in the lineup from Sogevinus this issue, this shows what you get with increasing age: the superb concentration of flavor, the long, intense finishes and the complex medley of flavors that old Tawnies deliver effortlessly. That, to me, is what makes them worth the extra bucks. If some of the youngsters lean more to caramel, this adds more molasses with a touch of Brandy in the background. The concentrated flavors linger more or less endlessly, driven into the palate by the wine’s power and acidity. You can smell and taste this for a long time. The graceful mid-palate is deceptively friendly at first. It sure does grip the palate at the end, though, finishing with juicy bursts of fruit and sugar. Over several days, it acquired a bit more harmony and shed a touch of aggression. The alcohol, speaking relatively, is not as well integrated here as with the 1965, also reviewed, but that is relative. I tended to like this just slightly better anyway for its complexity and concentration on several fronts. The freshness on the 1965 is quite enticing, though. It tastes younger. It depends on what you want: that old-wine complexity and depth or a livelier feel. They both have plenty of power on the finish. You can’t go wrong, really.”
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