Getting Started with the February Clearance Sale; New Arrivals from Bedrock, Palacios and Dow, plus Back Vintage Dom. Solitude—and more!; #Trending Spotlight on Argentina; New Reviews for Faiveley’s Outstanding 2016’s; Last Chance at January Clearance Sale Prices
Ramey and La Jota
Wine Spectator 96 points “A wealth of cherry flavor is surrounded by cut grass, tar, tobacco and iron notes in this complex, intense red. There is plenty of tension and a long aftertaste of licorice, tar and mineral. Balanced yet austere, this needs time to integrate fully. Best from 2023 through 2042.”
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “The 2012 Barolo Cerretta is intriguing to taste next to the Francia, as it is much more shut down and affected by its recent bottling. Today the tannins are searing and large-grained, a characteristic this wine did not show from barrel. The clay-rich soils in Cerretta tend to give a broader style of Barolo compared to Francia, where limestone is prevalent, and that is very much what comes through today. Hints of dark red cherry, plum, smoke, leather, tobacco and licorice struggle to emerge from a wall of tannin. Today, the Cerretta is a brute, with little of the perfume and finesse it showed in cask. Readers will have to be patient. The only question is how much.
Wine Advocate 94 points “To be released in October 2016, the 2012 Barolo Cerretta opens to a profound and buoyant bouquet that is particularly driven by menthol freshness, as well as pretty nuances of balsam herb and forest fruit with licorice, tilled earth and truffle. The wine is balanced and ethereal. It’s so difficult to achieve this level of aromatic definition (especially in a warm year like 2012), but Roberto Conterno has done so with a deft hand. This is a complete expression of Barolo with aromatic intensity that is matched by an enduring sense of structure and medium-weight appeal.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2003 Barolo Cascina Francia is soft, silky and very nicely balanced, especially in its tannins, where the wine really stands out next to so many peers. Readers should open the 2003 at least an hour in advance to allow the aromatics to open up. This is a very sexy and open young Barolo from Conterno with very little signs of the challenging growing season.”
Now it’s even lower!
Wine Spectator 96 points “A wealth of cherry flavor is surrounded by cut grass, tar, tobacco and iron notes in this complex, intense red. There is plenty of tension and a long aftertaste of licorice, tar and mineral. Balanced yet austere, this needs time to integrate fully. Best from 2023 through 2042.”
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “The 2012 Barolo Cerretta is intriguing to taste next to the Francia, as it is much more shut down and affected by its recent bottling. Today the tannins are searing and large-grained, a characteristic this wine did not show from barrel. The clay-rich soils in Cerretta tend to give a broader style of Barolo compared to Francia, where limestone is prevalent, and that is very much what comes through today. Hints of dark red cherry, plum, smoke, leather, tobacco and licorice struggle to emerge from a wall of tannin. Today, the Cerretta is a brute, with little of the perfume and finesse it showed in cask. Readers will have to be patient. The only question is how much.
Wine Advocate 94 points “To be released in October 2016, the 2012 Barolo Cerretta opens to a profound and buoyant bouquet that is particularly driven by menthol freshness, as well as pretty nuances of balsam herb and forest fruit with licorice, tilled earth and truffle. The wine is balanced and ethereal. It’s so difficult to achieve this level of aromatic definition (especially in a warm year like 2012), but Roberto Conterno has done so with a deft hand. This is a complete expression of Barolo with aromatic intensity that is matched by an enduring sense of structure and medium-weight appeal.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Like the Liebenberg from weathered granite and gneiss soils, but in a higher and cooler spot, the 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg opens with an intense and herbal-flavored, rather spicy and stony bouquet of ripe and concentrated bright fruits. Full-bodied, ripe and piquant on the palate, this is a rich and powerful, well-concentrated and elegant Kellerberg with a rich extract and a long and persistent finish. The 2015 should be cellared for at least another 3-5 years.”
Wine Advocate 93-94 points “The 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Liebenberg comes from 70- to 80-year-old vines on a rare calcareous slate soil. The wine displays a very clear and pure, pretty open and lovely spicy, crystalline and flinty bouquet with ripe pip fruit aromas. Very distinguished and rather coolish in its expression. Full-bodied, round and elegant, with tension, salt and grip in the finish, this is a charmingly ripe and juicy but also challenging mineral and piquant Veltliner from one of the most exciting terroirs. The finish is powerful and complex but also fresh and stimulatingly piquant. Pichler has bottled this wine since 2010.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Crafted with precision, this white features notes of white pepper and chamomile accenting apricot and wet stone flavors, showing good harmony between the savory and fruity elements.”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 95-96 points “A pungently smoky, incisive, savory mélange of sage, dark tobacco and black pepper is allied to ripe peach and garlanded with heliotrope in a head-turningly intense nose. That full range of elements reprises on a polished palate, whose textural caress and sweet sense of ripeness are combined with welcome, tangy, chewy counterpoint of peach skin and a refreshingly juicy squirt of fresh lime. The finish offers a mouthwateringly prolonged, kaleidoscopic interaction of fruity, savory and smoky elements – plenty rich, yet with rare cut and animation for its vintage.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Peach, apple and brown spice flavors mingle in this opulent yet structured Riesling, whose vivid acidity offsets the flesh. Underlying citrus and stone elements emerge on the finish. Drink now through 2023.”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 92 points “A site-typical meld of apricot and lime is garlanded with iris on the nose and reprises with wonderful purity and vivid freshness on a silken-textured, expansive palate. Piquant apricot kernel and a lick of wet stone lend counterpoint on a lusciously lingering finish that irresistibly calls forth the next sip.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Lush, displaying apricot, peach, grapefruit and mineral flavors backed by a vibrant structure, this stays true to its core of orchard fruit, adding accents of elderflower and citrus on the long aftertaste. Drink now through 2023.”
Antonio Galloni 92-95 points “The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal Vineyard is another hugely promising wine from David Ramey. Exotic in its aromatic profile, with tons of depth, the 2014 is exceptionally beautiful, layered and nuanced. This is a gorgeous and highly nuanced wine with a bright future.”
Now it’s even lower!
Robert Parker 95 points “The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon is 75.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec, aged in 89% new French oak. The wine displays the great fruit that is possible from these two sites owned by the Jacksons. It has an opaque purple color, a big, sweet kiss of crème de cassis and blackberry with a touch of lead pencil shavings, vanilla and incense. It is full-bodied and dense, with moderately high tannins but beautiful sweetness and fruit. Drink it over the next 25-30 years.”
New Arrivals
Oregon
Wine Spectator 93 points “A pretty Pinot, offering rose petal and strawberryaromas, opening to supple and delicately complex raspberry and cinnamon flavors that glide along the finish. Drink now through 2025. 150 cases made.”
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Vivid red. Smoke-tinged cherry and black raspberry scents, backed by vanilla and allspice nuances. Sappy and appealingly sweet, offering intense red and dark berry flavors that spread out slowly on the back half. Rich yet energetic, finishing with strong, spicy thrust, harmonious tannins and a late jolt of sweet cola.”
Winery note: beautifully structured wine sourced from several sites in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Dark in color, with beautiful depth. Crushed-berry fruit is clearly revealed on the palate, supported by excellent grip on the mid-palate and a solid, strong-boned structure. 345 cases produced.
Wine Spectator 95 points “A knockout red, focused and well-built but loaded with personality. Expressive blackberry and dark Asian spice notes lead to intense yet refined smoky plum, orange zest and smoky cracked pepper flavors. Zinfandel, Carignane, Mataro, Syrah and Alicante Bouschet. Drink now through 2027.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2016 Bedrock Heritage Wine is powerful, dense and explosive. Swaths of dark, deep fruit flesh out as this ample wine shows off its beguiling personality. Earthy and savory notes add aromatic nuance. As good as the 2016 is today – and it is terrific – it is also very backward and much less overt than other vintages have been. Readers will have to be patient. The Bedrock is a field blend of 27 different grapes based on 50% Zinfandel, 20% Carignane and 4% Mataro, plus dollops of everything else. This compelling Heritage Wine will find its greatest admirers among readers who enjoy old-school, structured wines.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Combines personality with polish, offering floral cherry and tomato leaf aromas and layered, plump cracked pepper, Asian spice and smoky plum flavors. Zinfandel, Carignane and Mataro. Drink now through 2026”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Another standout, the 2016 Evangelho Heritage Wine is wonderfully fragrant and lifted. Medium in body, gracious and super-expressive, the Evangelho is pure class. All the elements simply come together in this super-expressive Zinfandel-based wine. The combination of sandy soils and unique field blend of approximately 60% Zinfandel, 35% Mataro and 5% mixed blacks results in a wine of compelling beauty and pedigree. Evangelho is now a true estate vineyard owned by Bedrock”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The outstanding 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Barberini (a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre aged 24 months in 40% small barrels and 60% neutral wood foudres) boasts an inky/ruby/purple color in addition to a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, melted licorice, graphite, smoke, and truffles. Full-bodied, lush, and expansively flavored, with tremendous purity as well as density, this brilliant 2001 is already starting to strut its stuff.”
Case-12 Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Clos du Bourg’ Demi-Sec, Loire 2016 750ML ($299.95) $249 special (that’s only $41.50/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 95 points “Gorgeous, with creamy-edged nectarine, yellow and green apple, pear and quince flavors that are brightly defined from start to finish, flecked with verbena and honeysuckle hints and backed by a off-dry edge on the finish. Stays fresh and pure throughout. Tempting now but there’s no rush. Drink now through 2032.”Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Le Haut Lieu’ Sec, Loire 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Case-6 Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Le Haut Lieu’ Sec, Loire 2016 750ML ($229.95) $179 special (that’s only $29.83/bottle!)
Jancis Robinson 17/20 “Already has the lanolin character very prominently on the nose, then fairly light-bodied fruit with a ripe, tropical citrus character, plus a bit of peach. Perhaps a little brief, but has lovely typical Chenin funkiness. Drink 2017-2022.”
John Gilman 90 points “The 2016 Le Haut Lieu Sec from Domaine Huet is a pretty wine and much less powerful than the 2015 version. The wine offers up lovely youthful aromatics of quince, tart pineapple, chalky minerality, orange peel, lanolin, a whisper of the honeycomb to come with bottle age and a gently floral top note. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and nicely detailed, with good, but not great depth at the core, sound acids and very nice length and grip on the nascently complex finish. I like the shape of this wine very much, which does not have quite as much in reserve as many recent vintages of this bottling, but which has plenty of complexity and really impeccable balance. It may well age like the 1988 vintage here. 2017-2045.”
James Suckling 96 points “Subtle nose of dried rose petals, slate and hints of red cherries. Full body, a beautiful structure and a dense and harmonious texture. Single vineyard. So delicious now. Why wait?”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2014 Finca Dofí is a blend of approximately 94% Garnacha and 6% Cariñena from a plot in Gratallops called Finca Dofí. The destemmed and crushed grapes fermented in oak vats with natural yeasts followed by malolactic and 14 months aging in oak barrels. It feels terribly lively, with a silkiness and purity, terse but at the same time ripe. The oak is very integrated and there is no volatility many associate with Priorat, but the flavors are clearly reminiscent of the old vintages of Dofí but with a much more polished texture. Again the acidity gives it clout and depth, like claws clinging to you. It ends tasty and very mineral. This feels as good as the other-worldly 2013. A great vintage for Dofí. Elegance in a bottle. There are 20,100 bottles produced.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Lurid ruby. An explosively perfumed, mineral-tinged bouquet displays fresh boysenberry, cherry, licorice pastille and sandalwood scents, and a suave spicecake nuance gains power with air. Stains the palate with sappy red and blue fruit, spicecake and candied rose flavors that show impressive clarity and back-end lift. Silky, slow-building tannins add gentle grip to the finish, which hangs on with superb, floral- and mineral-driven tenacity.”
James Suckling 97 points “This is a very tight and fine-grained red with a compressed mouthfeel. The fruit comes through to a class and elegance. Such length. Ethereal structure. Unique. Drink or hold.”
Decanter 95 points “Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofí 2015 is grown on brown slate. Deep purple with pink rim. Impressively powerful, with a burst of black fruits, fresh, well-balanced, with a refined texture. A rasp of tannin gives structure, and a burst of juice explodes on the finish. An edge of liquorice and wild herbs to the finish. Very long, very fresh.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “Ricardo Pérez Palacios told me his favorite overall vintages for Bierzo are 2001, 2012 and possibly 2015, because he sees them as very complete years, even if 2015 didn’t have as perfect conditions as 2001 and 2012; the 2015 Corullón is a perfect example of that, a really pretty wine, open, where I see the similarities with 2012. They use many of the vineyards year after year, all of them around the village of Corullón, all planted with a field blend of varieties, and they have been increasing the percentage of white grapes from those vines that they include in the cuvée. In 2015, it can be almost 9%, mostly Palomino, and they feel it polishes that slight bitterness in the finish of the Mencía, reminiscent of green almonds. Of course, there are also other red grapes, like Alicante Bouschet, Gran Negro, Pan y Carne and Negreda, that might contribute to some 2% of the volume. 19,572 bottles, 720 half bottles, 450 magnums, 45 double magnums and 30 Jeroboams were filled between May 11th and 17th of 2017.”
James Suckling 96 points “A beautiful nose of violets, cranberries and hints of licorice. Full and powerful with polished and pretty tannins and a long finish. Excellent structure and depth. Made from a single vineyard of old mencia. One of the top wines of the estate. Better in 2020.”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The single-vineyard 2014 Las Lamas follows the same path as the rest of the 2014s: very good freshness and precision, floral and perfumed, elegant and nuanced, with a terribly balanced palate and a little less body than the 2015 but more approachable with its gentle character. This bottling has been on fire since 2012, when they realized they needed slightly higher yields than they had in the past, and it means the ripeness has been more perfect since then. 3,090 bottles. It was bottled in March 2016.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “This is the exception to 2016’s relatively narrow range of must weights and acidity chez Merkelbach, having been harvested at 98 Oechsle and finished with only 6.3 grams of acidity. “These were really thin-skinned berries,” explained Alfred Merkelbach, “and as a result there was a lot of shriveling,” albeit without benefit of botrytis. Quince and strawberry preserves on the nose, accompanied by scents of heliotrope and lily, translate into a glycerol-slicked palate performance loaded with inner-mouth perfume. Hints of white raisin as well as a savory suggestion of browned butter add appeal to a lingering finish that compensates for its lack of animating brightness with an invigorating hint of seed-crunching bite. (Amusingly – it couldn’t happen often – the Merkelbachs ended up stopping this at precisely the same 71.4 grams of residual sugar as the A.P. #11.)”
Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “The 2016er Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese AP10 was harvested at 98° Oechsle in the prime Class I former Treppchen vineyard within the Ürziger Würzgarten. This develops a rather ripe nose of melon, herbs and spices. The wine is nicely spicy and juicy on the palate and leaves a feel of ripe pear and melon enhanced by dried spices in the long finish. This is an outstanding smooth Auslese made in a style not unlike that of the finest 2003 wines. 2026-2046”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “Harvested botrytis-free at 90 Oechsle, this was stopped with a bit higher residual sugar and lower alcohol than its Spätlese counterparts, a decision based on the Merkelbachs’ assessment that it exhibited Auslese tendencies. The nose is effusively and decadently floral, suggesting heliotrope and fading lily. Along with that come scents of overripe kiwi and honeydew melon, all of which presage a luscious, expansive but buoyant palate with impressively persistent layering of inner-mouth floral perfume. A pinch of salinity and a kiss of wet stone add saliva-inducement and interest to a finish that only wants a bit for animation, clarity and juiciness when compared with the most successful wines of the present collection.”
Mosel Fine Wines 91 points “The 2016er Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese AP11 was harvested at 90° Oechsle in the prime Class I Pichter (locally called Langpichter) sector of the Ürziger Würzgarten. The wine develops a beautiful nose of melon, pear, grapefruit and fine spices. It proves quite smooth but multi-layered on the palate and leaves a great playful and airy feel in the long finish. This is plain beautiful and has great upside potential if the fresher zesty side comes through. 2026-2046”
Jancis Robinson 18.5/20 “Exceptionally deep crimson with remarkably little evolution and few orangey hints. Very lively, even a hint of orange peel. Lots of concentration and life. Quite animal too. Very sweet and impressive with a great combination of richness and structure. This is serious wine with a serious future. Long and well balanced.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “I have always been a fan of this very fine and well-made Port. Truly balanced in character, with focused flowers, spice and cherry. Full-bodied, with a sweet palate and a fine texture.–Dow vertical. Drink now.”
Wine Spectator 100 points “In a word, superb. It’s full-bodied, moderately sweet and incredibly tannic, but there’s amazing finesse and refinement to the texture, not to mention fabulous, concentrated aromas of raspberries, violets and other flowers. Perhaps the greatest Taylor ever, it’s better than either the ’92 or the ’70, though it’s very like the ’70 in structure.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2014 Eggo Blanc de Cal is pure Sauvignon Blanc from two different vineyards in Gualtallary. The full clusters are pressed and the must was fermented and aged in contact with the lees for nine to ten months in their famous egg-shaped cement vats. This is more subtle and earthy, less Sauvignon, with the fruit expressing itself in a lower-pitched voice, more of a baritone. It’s also has a little wider, pungent and powerful character in the mouth. This is only around 13% alcohol, and even though in 2014 it didn’t go through malolactic fermentation, it’s still a very light and fresh wine. Groundbreaking Sauvignon. 4,800 bottles were produced, fruit of two eggs.” LG
Zorzal Eggo Franco Cabernet Franc, Tupungato 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Zorzal Eggo Franco Cabernet Franc, Tupungato 2015 750ML ($319.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle! –the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Wine Advocate 93 points “The second vintage I tasted from this Cabernet Franc, the 2015 Eggo Franco is produced, like many of their wines, with grapes from Tupungato Winelands in Gualtallary. It fermented in cement eggs with some stems and with 50% of the wine kept in contact with skins for some three to four months, then pressed and put back in the eggs to complete its élevage, which lasted some nine months. It shows a mixture of herbal and candied berry aromas, hints of beef blood and iron. The absence of oak shows the naked tannins and provides an earthy side, which to me is very much the wild character of Gualtallary. 6,000 bottles were filled in December 2015 (it was harvested in March).”
Superuco Calcareo ‘Coluvio de Altamira’ Malbec, Uco Valley 2013 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2013 Calcáreo Coluvio de Altamira is closed and tight, feeling the most austere and chalk-driven of the three reds I tasted form the Calcáreo line. The grapes are selected from a small part of the vineyard where the calcium carbonate is seen in the surface. It’s a serious, balanced and terribly salty and mineral red with the violets of Malbec intermixed with crushed rocks and even a marine feeling to it. Complex, subtle, elegant… terrific! And very affordable too. 3,000 bottles produced, the content of the amphora.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2012 El Gran Enemigo is a blend of some 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each Cabernet Franc and Merlot, quite a different blend from the 2011 vintage, but also all from Gualtallary in the Uco Valley. The idea for this blend is to only use grapes from limestone soils, always a blend, while the single vineyard from Gualtallary is basically a varietal Cabernet Franc. 2012 was a little cooler than 2011, but there’s a lot more Malbec here, and there are less herbal aromas and more floral tones. There’s hardly any oak in these wines now; they are aged in used, well-seasoned, neutral oak barrels and then transferred to cement vats. It feels purer, more defined, aromatic and subtle. This is really superb, with incredible citric acidity that makes you salivate. It keeps changing in the glass, one minute giving more herbal notes, the following minute turning floral, spicier, growing in the glass and developing new nuances. This is an impressive, age-worthy blend, with the telltale chalky tannins and a supple finish. “
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2013 Calcáreo Río de los Chacayes is sourced from the Chacayes zone of Tunuyán on top of Vista Flores towards the mountains. It has a riper, spicier, floral, and aromatic profile with notes of thyme and rosemary. It is the most extroverted of the three, and also feels quite polished. The palate, however, is more serious, with the austerity of the rocks, a very fine thread of subtle acidity and a long, long, long finish with sweeter tannins. It’s a rolling stone covered in chalk and surrounded by thyme. Awesome! 3,000 bottles were produced.”
James Suckling 98 points “The purity of fruit is so impressive here with flowers, dark fruit, and strawberries. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, and a focus and beauty that makes you think. So long and elegant. 67% malbec, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 8% petit verdot.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “At Cheval des Andes they consider 2013 as a warm vintage, because even if the winter saw average temperatures, the spring and summer were warmer than normal. The 2013 Cheval des Andes came up to 67% Malbec, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot mostly from their vineyards at Las Compuertas at some 1,1000 meters altitude and some fruit from their 15 hectares at La Consulta in the Valle de Uco, that they use when they don’t find it too ripe. Even if they tend to pick early, the bottled wine is a ripe and heady blend hitting the scale at 15% alcohol fermented relatively warm (28 degrees Celsius) for some 25 days. After malolactic in tank, all different lots go into barrel and they try to make the blend as soon as possible, usually during the first winter so the wine ages together for some 15 to 18 months in French oak barriques. They have reduced the amount of new wood used (only 30%) to avoid overwhelming the fruit with aromas but providing complexity and clarifying the wine naturally. From this vintage onward they have been able to not acidify the wine, as they changed their approach to viticulture, and they are now able to burn the green notes and harvest early, with natural acidity and lower alcohol. The key to this is to get something like 30-35 hectoliters per hectare. I think this is absolutely the right approach, and this change started in 2010–with 100% estate fruit, no oenological products used, fresh maturity without greenness through lower yields. In 2013.”
2016 Domaine Faiveley
New Reviews from Stephen Tanzer
For a Heralded Vintage
“Burgundy-loving civilians, who are naturally more concerned with the price and availability of their favorite wines than with the challenges of producing them, will derive great pleasure from the precise, perfumed, suavely tannic 2016s from the outset….As 2016 was a year with relatively full phenolic ripeness and moderate grape sugars, with its better wines characterized by wonderfully smooth tannins, many, many wines from crop levels of 15 hectoliters per hectare or less show a beautiful balance of fresh fruit, lively acidity and ripe tannins…
“If there’s one generalization I would make about the very complicated 2016 vintage, it’s that the majority of wines from Burgundy’s most capable grape-growers and winemakers are more transparent to terroir than the 2015s are, often stunningly so. They are generally more classic and less weighty, and their intense fruit and fresh, high-pitched aromatic qualities should give them more early appeal than the ‘15s, even in cases where they have the stuffing and balance to age well” –Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Arriving ETA Fall 2018:
Domaine Faiveley Les Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($159.95) $139 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “Bright red with ruby tones. Very pure, youthfully medicinal aromas of black raspberry, violet and menthol. Wonderfully rich and subtly sweet, offering grand cru volume and depth to its flavors of red and darker berries, licorice, spices and minerals. This utterly suave wine boasts a rare combination of ripeness and coolness. The youthfully medicinal finish mounts slowly, with saline soil and mineral tones emerging as the wine opens in the glass. Splendid potential.”
Domaine Faiveley La Combe d’Orveau, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($199.95) $169 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “(technical director Flous noted that due to the tiny production in 2016–nearly 90% lower than normal– this wine was made in exactly the same way as Faiveley’s Musigny: 50% destemmed by hand, vinified in a small tank and aging in a new feuillette): Bright ruby-red. Slightly grilled, reduced nose dominated today by smoky minerality, with hints of fresh blood and mocha. Plush, sweet and voluminous; a powerful, saline, smoky wine with outstanding solidity and unflagging length, but in need of a racking. Very impressive if a bit of a freak; this wine will be bottled direct from the barrel but will it have enough lift?”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Faiveley Les Amoureuses, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($379.95) $319 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “(one new barrel made, but there was not a lot of frost here): Bright ruby-red. Initially quite reduced, the nose cleared somewhat with air to reveal dark scents of black raspberry, cherry and mocha. Then wonderfully supple and sweet on the palate if a bit dominated by smoky oak today; perhaps a bit thicker and riper than Faiveley’s other Chambolle-Musigny premier crus but less expressive today. Finishes with distinctly dark, even purple, fruit flavors and good savory minerality. This needs a racking.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Faiveley La Combe aux Moines, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($119.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “Good dark red. Pure, cool, very reticent aromas of raspberry, redcurrant and licorice plus a positive hint of mustard seed. Backward and unforthcoming on the palate as well, showing subtle saline mineral and soil tones but little easy sweetness or fleshiness. Finishes with slightly granular but ripe tannins and very good length.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Faiveley Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Bright dark red. Deeper pitched and more musky than the Clos des Issarts on the nose, showing more dark fruits and violet than raspberry and minerals today. Then plush and fresh in the mouth, offering surprising early appeal and sweetness to its flavors of dark berries and flowers. Can’t quite match the Clos des Issarts for its tightly coiled spring, but boasts excellent old-vines intensity and plenty of verve. Despite its firm tannins, I suspect this wine will give relatively early pleasure. The yield here was less than 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to technical director Jérôme Flous.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Faiveley Les Cazetiers, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Bright dark red. Reduced on the nose. Then silky, penetrating and classically dry on the palate, conveying an impression of medicinal reserve to its flavors of black fruits, smoke and minerals. The serious, granular tannins reach the front teeth. Very tactile wine but a bit youthfully stunted.”
Domaine Faiveley Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “(partly from purchased grapes and the rest from a 60-year-old massale selection in both Charmes and Mazoyères–the same “Magnien selection” as the Lavaux Saint-Jacques; 100% destemmed; aging in 60% new oak and 40% once-used barrels): Dark red. Ripe, slightly high-toned aromas of almost liqueur-like dark fruit salad. Juicy on entry, then dense, sappy and dry, displaying lovely definition and cut. Very firm but with an element of perfume that makes it approachable now. Finishes complex and long, with supple tannins. Technical directly Jérôme Flous says that this is “the closest in style among our wines to Rousseau’s.” There’s certainly an element of softness to it.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Faiveley Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($299.95) $249 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “(from very old vines; no frost here): Healthy dark red with ruby tones. Aromas of dark berries and coffee with cream on top. At once densely packed and perfumed in the mouth, with crushed raspberry and cranberry flavors lifted by violet. Spreads out horizontally on the back end, finishing with terrific class and ineffable rising perfume of spices and flowers. The tannins here are linear and firm but not hard. A very classy, scented grand cru in the making.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($319.95) $259 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points “(60% new oak): Dark red with ruby highlights. Complex, inviting aromas of black raspberry, peony, toast, smoke and game. Compellingly rich, creamy wine with a captivating mixture of dark berries, flowers and toasty oak. Maintains its thickness and body straight through to the very ripe, long, suavely tannic finish. A beauty.”
Domaine Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($449.95) $379 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 94-97 points “Bright, dark red-ruby. Knockout sappy nose combines black raspberry, crushed rock and white pepper. Boasts remarkable intensity and clarity–not to mention class–to its flavors of raspberry, spices and pungent minerals. Wonderfully sappy and dense but almost magically light on its feet. This sharply delineated wine finishes with ineffable rising perfume and outstanding length. This wine manages to combine the best traits of Faiveley’s other Gevrey grand crus–not to mention the finest qualities of the 2016 vintage–in an utterly weightless package.”
Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Beze Les Ouvrees Rodin Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($1,499.95) $1,199 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 95-98 points “(like the “regular” Clos de Bèze, this special cuvée from 60+-year-old vines on the Chambertin side of the cru was totally destemmed): Dark red-ruby. Less expressive but slightly riper aromas of purple and black fruits and pungent spices. Then utterly seamless and suave on the palate, offering a lacy, feminine texture with great energy and sophistication. The penetrating red berry and white pepper flavors are amplified by the wine’s mineral underpinning. The endless rising finish combines serious power and refined tannins. Ultimately a bit less expressive and tight-grained than the classic Clos de Bèze but this is even deeper.”
Domaine Faiveley Corton ‘Clos des Cortons’ Faiveley Monopole Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 95-98 points “Bright ruby. Fruit-driven aromas of crushed black cherry and dark raspberry convey outstanding pungent lift. Incredibly concentrated, sappy and primary, conveying outstanding juicy purity and compelling thickness to its dark fruit and violet flavors. At once hugely powerful and utterly seamless, this wine finishes with great spicy length and lift. A real essence of Burgundy–and likely to evolve gracefully for 25 years or more.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “A new Walla Walla release, the 2014 Ovide Jack’s Vineyard is a gorgeous black fruit, black olive, dried herbs and chocolate layered beauty that has ultra-fine tannin, a seamless profile and a great finish. It has more elegance and purity than the Roma release, and is a beauty!”
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “A ripe, powerful wine, the 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia offers a level of finesse that balances some of the more overt intensity of the year. Dark cherry, plum, spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice add shades of nuance as this beautifully delineated Rancia opens up in the glass. Because of its mid-weight structure, I expect the 2012 will give up its charms relatively early by Rancia standards, which means around age 15-20. The 2012 is not an obvious or explosive Rancia, rather is a wine built on compelling overall harmony.”
Wine Advocate 94+ points “The 2014 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Rotlay offers a superbly clear and concentrated bouquet with tropical fruit aromas (mango, pineapples) and fine botrytis. Picked with 110° Oechsle, this is a sweet, piquant, highly elegant and refined Riesling with a lingering purity and salinity, as well as the repetition of the tropical fruit aromas of the nose. With great finesse and concentration, this is quite noble and expressive Riesling.”
Now it’s even lower!
Wine Advocate 96 points “Up in the top handful of wines in the vintage (which should come as no surprise to anyone who follows this estate), the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is a full-bodied, beautifully concentrated, rich and layered Châteauneuf that doesn’t put a foot wrong. Made from 85% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah, it offers blockbuster notes of blackberry, liquid-violets, spice and serious minerality to go with awesome mid-palate depth and layers of sweet tannin. Like the Cuvee Chaupin, it will be better in another handful of years and thrill through 2027”
Bishop Creek Vineyard is a special vineyard, located in the western part of Yamhill-Carlton at a higher elevation than many of the famous sites of the AVA. Though it’s now the estate vineyard for Nicolas Jay Winery (the Oregon outpost of esteemed Burgundy producer Jean-Nicolas Meo), Marcus Goodfellow for several years made wine for his own label and also for Bishop Creek, which were often highlights both of his portfolio as well as Yamhill in general. Since the sale of the vineyard, though, he’s been unable to make more and so we were able to secure the last of it made under the Goodfellow label.Stylistically, it shows some of its intrinsic Yamhill-Carlton personality through darker toned fruit, but compared to almost anything else in the appellation (save perhaps Belle Pente) it’s much more elegant and vivid, with a levity that’s unusual for the AVA. The 2014 is a bit of a (delicious) paradox—dark fruited and more powerful than a “typical” Goodfellow wine, but fresher and more elegant than a typical Yamhill-Carlton bottling, especially from 2014. The good news is that almost anyone should feel comfortable popping a bottle and enjoying it, either now or (especially) 5+ years down the road.
When Wine Spectator put the Baumard Savennieres in the top-15 of their Top 100 list, we won’t say that we were surprised. At 94 points (and under $25), it was a clear critical favorite—with good reason. Baumard is one of the top producers in the Loire and for dry Chenin Blanc this is a tough wine to beat. (Really, for dry, full bodied whites in general, but we digress.) Needless to say, the wine sold out almost instantly as a result of the additional press, but we’re pleased to have it back in stock again.This wine is one of the better values you’ll see and also one of the most versatile wines in the store in terms of pairings. The wine marries a rich texture (that’s oak-free) to a crisp acidity that cleanses the palate and anchors the long, mineral finish. This pairs with everything from white fish to roast pork and at a price/quality level that means you can drink it on Tuesday or on a special occasion. Just don’t delay if you’re interested—we don’t expect it to stick around long this time, either.
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2013 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $33, 34 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 91-92 points ‘The 2014 Ayler Kupp Kabinett from Florian Lauer is really a lovely and quite classic example of this Prädikat, with lovely acidity and minerality providing a fine filigree to the wine and a nice sense of reserve out of the blocks as well. The very classy nose wafts from the glass in a mix of green apple, tart orange, slate, lovely smokiness and a touch of dried flowers in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, pure and focused, with a good core, bright acids, a nice touch of sweetness on the attack and lovely length and grip on the elegant and nascently complex finish. This is quite approachable now, but still a touch primary, and I would be inclined to give it at least a few years in the cellar to develop its secondary layers of complexity. 2019-2035+.” JG
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese**, Mosel 2013 375ML ($39.95) Was $33, Now $24, 36+ half-bottles in stock now
Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Le Mont’ Demi-Sec, Loire 2015 750ML ($59.95) Was $49, Now $36, 36+ bottles in stock now
Grapelive 93 points “The Charles Smith K Vintners “M*C*K Syrah is a rock and roll red that proves both powerful and wonderfully textural in feel with sharp detailing and extra length, and while tannic by nature there is a lot to love in this vintage with black raspberry, sweet currant and dark chocolate covered bacon bits! This lush Syrah perfectly illustrates the house style and the terroir. Its bold frame is balance by perfectly reasonable 14% natural alcohol and inner acidity and an electric boost of energy matching its sweet fruited palate. Washington State is home to magical Syrah, with Cayuse, Betz and Gramercy Cellars (one of my personal favorites) being two of the higher profile examples. Many more are filling the scene with great wines like Reynvaan, Horsepower, Dunham Delmas, Waters, Mark Ryan, Trust, Syncline, Gorman, Rotie, Sleight of Hand, Amavi and Efeste all offering amazing quality. Charles Smith’s K Vintners reminds me of either Guigal or Jaboulet with his amazing array of bottlings from entry level wines to top single vineyard Crus, with lots of seriously good stuff in the middle, like this well rounded Motor City Kitty Syrah. [It] was fermented using native yeasts, with a long 43 days on the skins and aged 22 months in French puncheons, 30% new, from a Walla Walla vineyard planted to a Tablas Creek clone. [It is] 100% Syrah and grown on old river bed with large cobbles and well-draining rocky soils. This 2014 maintained its natural acidity allowing a real fresh verve to stay in this alluring and richly flavored wine that shows ripe boysenberry, minty plum, blueberry compote, sweet black cherry and dense creme de cassis as well as subtle vanilla wood notes, hints of acacia flowers, graphite, bitter coco, anise and that candied bacon bits mentioned above. The evolution in the glass is graceful and more refined than I had imagined. There is plenty of life here and I think in many ways it will be even more rewarding in 3 to 5 years in bottle. It’s not exactly what I expected, but thrilling none the less with very impressive detail and a very worthy performance.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “Medium red. A highly perfumed bouquet displays red fruit preserves, smoked meat and potpourri. Deeply pitched redcurrant and bitter cherry flavors show a slight medicinal reserve, which makes this wine seem far younger than it is. The potpourri note builds with air and carries through a long, chewy, smoky finish. Definitely let this air out for an hour or so. Incidentally, I had the chance to drink two lithe and highly fragrant bottles of the 1961 Vina Bosconia at a restaurant in San Sebastian that had been in their cellar for at least the last 20 years. If you’re lucky enough to own that wine (like these older wines, it is still available from the winery) there’s absolutely no reason to hold off drinking it. I couldn’t hold off, twice.”
Hartford Family Winery Hartford Court Fog Dance Vineyard Pinot Noir, Green Valley 2014 750ML ($69.95) Was $59, Now $49, 8 bottles in stock now
2015 remains a landmark year in the Loire, especially in Vouvray. The wines are rich and powerful, with explosive aromatics and finishes that seemingly go on forever. Domaine Huet was one of the stars of the show, releasing one of their finest collections to date. We’ve got even lower prices on some of the highlights of the set—from Demi-Sec all the way to nobly ripe Premiere Trie Moelleux. These are wines to buy and drink now and also in 20+ years and these prices are designed to smooth the path for you to do so.
A few assorted wines we’d like to get to good families. These are excellent bottles that have flown under the radar, either because they’re in a category that’s a little unloved (ie: California Pinot here in Oregon) or we just have a ton of other options and they’re overlooked (Meulenhof). One way or another, they deserve a little more love and attention in their lives. We’re going to make it a little easier for you to give that to them with our newly lowered prices.
Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore, Loire 2015 750ML ($199.95) $149 special
Mousse Fils Terre d’Illite Blanc de Noirs Brut, Champagne 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Vieilles Vignes, Rhone 2015 750ML ($37.95) $28 special
La Poderina is a relatively new producer in Castelnuovo dell’Abate of Montalcino, founded in 1988, and producing a modest 6,000 or so cases of wine annually. But don’t underestimate the refinement they’re capable of delivering in their Brunellos. They dedicate a mere 25 acres to Sangiovese Grosso for their Brunello and their vines are all low yield. The 2006 shows in a manner perhaps somewhat typical of that year, certainly not on the bigger side but more elegant and reserved which—in my opinion—does greater justice to the variety. This wine is delightfully delicate. It took my palate a minute to get a grip on its subtlety, but once it did I thoroughly loved what I found there: floral, lightly perfumed, just a sprinkle of fruit, mellow acid and hints of new French oak all very well integrated. At only $44 this wine is a great way to wrap your palate around the delicate depths of a Brunello di Montalcino with some age on it.
Normally we’d write a nice long description on the Eugen Muller Kirchenstuck Auslese, but this time I’m handing it over to the importer, who says all the things I want to say, but better:
Chianti has quietly become the best value play in Tuscan wine. Although Brunello gets most of the headlines, producers in Chianti have been turning out wines that rival anything from their neighbors (albiet in a slightly different idiom) but at much lower prices. Antonio Galloni just published his reviews of the 2014 and ‘15’s in the marketplace right now and his praise was effusive. We have several of the most highly regarded wines in stock and wanted to highlight them below:
Albert Boxler Pinot Gris Brand, Alsace Grand Cru 2012 750ML ($89.95) Was $59, Now $49, 7 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points “This is a DP that shows the ripeness of the 2009 vintage yet remains full of energy. Gorgeous aromas of cream, apple, mango, honeysuckle, and chalk follow through to a full body and super fine, tight texture. Dense and agile. Vinous. It’s like a top grand cru white Burgundy. Think Batard-Montrachet. More depth than the 2006. Drink now.”
Kapcsandy has become one of the standard bearers for new-cult California Cabernet, joining the ranks of Schrader, Maybach and Scarecrow as some of the most coveted wines in the Napa game today. The wines just got a few new (high) scores in the new issue of the Wine Advocate and we wanted to highlight those today.
The late Denis Malbec, formerly of Chateau Latour in Bordeaux, got the project up and running and served as a consulting viticulturist and winemaker, producing wines of depth and power. These are Napa wines with a Bordeaux spine and sensibility. Kapcscandy’s grape growing philosophy involves instense cultivation, involving meticulous hedging and maintenance with continuity in the way the vines are planted, cared for and harvested. Vines are planted 4-5 times more densely than is typical for Napa Valley, showing similarities with the plantings of 1st Growth Bordeaux’s. This higher density spacing creates smaller berries with higher skin-to-juice ratios and induces natural stressing of the vines without artificial human intervention, resulting in a higher intensity of flavors, complexities and aromas.
Wine Advocate 95 points “A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Cuvée has a medium to deep garnet-purple color and is scented of fresh black currants, cherries and mulberries with touches of Provence herbs, lavender, wild blueberries, anise and cedar chest. Medium-bodied, finely crafted, very elegant and fresh, the palate offers vivacious red and black fruits with a savory undercurrent and supple texture, finishing on a spicy note.”
Kerry Winslow has quickly become one of our favorite under-the-radar wine critics—he may not cover the volume of wine that a major publication does, but he tends to seek out regions and wines that fly under the radar. His tastes lean more John Gilman than James Suckling and for better or worse writes his reviews to thoroughly educate. He’s published a few things recently on wines that we had in stock and wanted to highlight, so here you go:
Grapelive 92+ points “Georg Rumpf’s concentrated and richly flavored Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Spatlese reveals the glories of the vintage and while deep and sweet on the palate there is wonderful vitality and balance in this beautiful Riesling, it was brilliant with both fiery Thai chili noodles and a more subtle curry on Christmas eve, as well as going nicely with the Holiday fare. Georg’s wines are hitting a groove right now, especially his 2015 and 2016 offerings, both vintages entrance and intrigue with the warm vintage wines of 2015 showing the sex appeal and density you’d expect and the 2016’s giving a masterful performance in delicacy and detail, it’s hard to pick between them to be honest, but this alluring 2015 Riesling Spatlese from the loess, quartzite and clay soils of Kapellenberg’s Munsterer Dautenpflanzer is pure seduction in the glass. This Riesling’s opulent palate unfolds with orange blossom, sweet lime, hints of seashore, wet shale and a touch of honey along with a core of white and yellow stone fruits, mineral tones and lemony quince. Layers of peach, apple and apricot come through with air as does a bit of flinty, dried tangy ginger while the body fills out with a certainly creaminess, though energy (crisp acidity) still pumps away keeping this stuff focused, it’s not heavy or cloying at all. Rumpf tries to used native yeasts on the fruity/sweeter wines with longer lees aging, all which with the attention of handwork in the vineyard add up to quality and authentic wines, especially with his Cru bottlings like this one. It’s hard to find better values in the Nahe than Kruger-Rumpf”
Grapelive 93 points “The Charles Smith K Vintners “M*C*K Syrah is a rock and roll red that proves both powerful and wonderfully textural in feel with sharp detailing and extra length, and while tannic by nature there is a lot to love in this vintage with black raspberry, sweet currant and dark chocolate covered bacon bits! This lush Syrah perfectly illustrates the house style and the terroir. Its bold frame is balance by perfectly reasonable 14% natural alcohol and inner acidity and an electric boost of energy matching its sweet fruited palate. Washington State is home to magical Syrah, with Cayuse, Betz and Gramercy Cellars (one of my personal favorites) being two of the higher profile examples. Many more are filling the scene with great wines like Reynvaan, Horsepower, Dunham Delmas, Waters, Mark Ryan, Trust, Syncline, Gorman, Rotie, Sleight of Hand, Amavi and Efeste all offering amazing quality. Charles Smith’s K Vintners reminds me of either Guigal or Jaboulet with his amazing array of bottlings from entry level wines to top single vineyard Crus, with lots of seriously good stuff in the middle, like this well rounded Motor City Kitty Syrah. [It] was fermented using native yeasts, with a long 43 days on the skins and aged 22 months in French puncheons, 30% new, from a Walla Walla vineyard planted to a Tablas Creek clone. [It is] 100% Syrah and grown on old river bed with large cobbles and well-draining rocky soils. This 2014 maintained its natural acidity allowing a real fresh verve to stay in this alluring and richly flavored wine that shows ripe boysenberry, minty plum, blueberry compote, sweet black cherry and dense creme de cassis as well as subtle vanilla wood notes, hints of acacia flowers, graphite, bitter coco, anise and that candied bacon bits mentioned above. The evolution in the glass is graceful and more refined than I had imagined. There is plenty of life here and I think in many ways it will be even more rewarding in 3 to 5 years in bottle. It’s not exactly what I expected, but thrilling none the less with very impressive detail and a very worthy performance.”
Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvee Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2015 750ML ($31.95) $24 special, 19 bottles in stock now
That the 2015 vintage is a success across the board in the Northern Rhone is no surprise at this point and early signs point to 2016 as a more than worthy follow-up. The Wine Advocate just released a set of reviews for some of the notable producers in the Northern Rhone and although many of the wines are either yet to come out or have already sold out, the reviews for some of the Clape and Vincent Paris wines caught our eye. These are some of the best estates currently working in Cornas and the wines (and scores) reflect that.
We’ve finally managed to secure some more 2014 Opus One. The first two tranches sold out almost instantly, reflecting the current status of the wine as one of the crown jewels of California wine. 2014 looks to be another strong vintage for Opus and we expect these to disappear as quickly as our first few rounds.
Weingut Emmerich Knoll ‘Vinothekfullung’ Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria 2013 750ML ($79.95) Displayed price: $69, Your price: $62.10, 10 bottles in stock now
Goodfellow Family Cellars Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2015 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
Pirouette: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Richly layered and complex, with a generous spectrum of aromas and flavors including black cherry, sweet spices and a hint of earth. The wine’s refined texture provides a seductive mouth feel and lengthy finish.
Wine Advocate “Château Thivin must be one of the prettiest wineries in Beaujolais, perched on the steep slopes of the Côte de Brouilly like something you would find on a postcard. It is always a pleasure to meet winemaker Claude-Edouard Geoffrey (still a dead-ringer for Harry Potter—apologies for keep mentioning that), and in recent years he has certainly been casting his magic over the wines that are among the finest in Beaujolais. “The 2016 season started very warm,” he told me as we tasted in his dining room, “and for one month [in early spring] it stayed around 25 degrees Celsius. This was followed by a cool period. April to June was very rainy, which made the viticulture very difficult, and then there was good weather during flowering. Afterwards it was a very good August and September, very hot and dry. Some of the young vines suffered during this period. We started the harvest around 21 or 22 September and finished 6 or 7 October. The next day the vines were freezing.” Although the 2016s faced a more challenging growing season than the previous year, Thivin’s wines performed extremely well, demonstrating freshness and satisfying fruit, not just with respect to the reds but also a wonderful Beaujolais Rosé that is one of the finest I have tasted from the region. I have bleated on about the brilliance of Thivin’s Côte de Brouilly, in my mind one of the finest offerings from Beaujolais, an exemplary expression of Gamay from one of its most propitious terroirs. In summary, it is onwards and upwards from Château Thivin. [No scored review at this time]”
Robert Parker 98+ points “From their steep hillside vineyards on Pritchard Hill, the 2014 Proprietary Red IX Estate is an old-fashioned Médoc blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, but with some Cabernet Franc (rarely seen in the Médoc these years) as well as Merlot and Petit Verdot. Striking aromatics of violets, forest floor, loamy soil nuances, blueberry, black raspberry and blackberry soar from the glass of this spectacular 2014. The acidity seems reasonable but on the lower side, the texture is magnificent, and the overall purity and equilibrium flawless. This is a wine pushing, even demanding, a three-digit score once again, but I’m holding back – at least for now. This magnificent effort from Colgin should drink beautifully for 25-30 years.”Bodegas Toro Albala Don PX Convento Seleccion, Montilla-Moriles 1929 750ML ($459.95) Was $359, Now $299, 7 bottles in stock now
R.H. Coutier Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $35.80 special
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2012 Brut Spécial Club Millésimé 1er Cru is a powerful, authoritative wine. Lemon peel, white flowers and orchard fruit are some of the many nuances that blossom in a rich, resonant Champagne loaded with class and personality. Creamy and ample, with terrific depth and plenty of volume, the 2012 will drink well for a number of years. The 2012 finishes just a touch dry, but there is a good deal of substance as well. Disgorged: April 2017. Dosage is 6.5 grams per liter.”Champagne Hebrart Cuvee Rose Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Great Cabernet/Syrah/Chardonnay/etc. seems to be easy to find and it all tastes, to one degree or another, like other wines made from the same grape more than something intrinsically of the place it’s from. So called “International” grapes make delicious wine, but for me, the chance to taste something uniquely of a place is really something exciting. Autocton, a small winery in Catalonia, is working to preserve traditional grapes and wine which is uniquely Catalan. The wine that I’m highlighting today is mostly made from a grape called Sumol, with a little bit of Ull de Llebre (which, tellingly, is the Catalan—not Spanish—word for Tempranillo). The wine itself is both dark fruited and also lively on the palate—with dusty flavors and a good spine of acidity and tannin. This is something that seems to speak to the food of fall and winter, but would be delicious with a steak or chicken off the grill, as well.Autocton Celler ‘Autocton’ Negre, Catalonia 2015 750ML ($19.95) $16 special, 29 bottles in stock now
When Principessa Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa and her husband bought their 13th century farmhouse and estate in Tuscany in the late 60’s their intention was not to become one of the leading producers of traditionally-made Chianti Classico. Rather, the goal was simple—find a place to settle down and raise a family, and the vineyards were part of the mixed agriculture that was traditional in Tuscany at the time.