Sunday Night Newsletter 7-31-22

De Venoge is an old-school Champagne House that’s relatively unknown in the United States, a fact that means even their finest and rarest wines continue to be undervalued relative to their peers. This is no better exemplified than their prestige cuvee, the LXV bottling. Named after Louis the 15th, who first authorized the bottling of Champagne, it sees extensive aging on its lees and is a true monument of vintage champagne. 

De Venoge was established in Champagne in the first part of the 19th century by Swiss born Henri-Marc de Venoge and his son Joseph.  Today the House has a strong following in Europe for good reason—they source from some of the best vineyards in Champagne and produce prestige cuvées of immense quality, built on long lees aging. The Louis XV, for instance, is sourced exclusively from Grand Cru villages such as Verzenay, Bouzy, Avize, and Le Mesnil. The resulting wines capture the essence of classical Champagne and are in high demand in Europe’s top restaurants. 

De Venoge prestige cuvée is an outstanding wine for lovers of truly mature Champagne in all its glory, offering a rich, creamy texture from the extended lees aging married to surprisingly fresh, mineral personalities. There’s a reason this House has such a following overseas: they produce stunning aged wines that are ready to go, so consumers can enjoy the magic on release. Now’s your chance to try them for yourself! These are perfect “occasion” wines that make for fantastic birth year or anniversary gifts.  

In Stock Now:

Champagne de Venoge Louis XV Brut Millésimé, Champagne 2006 750ml ($219.95) $189 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The assemblage of the 2006 Louis XV Brut Millésimé is about the same as the 1995 and 1996—composed of 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from grand cru villages. The only difference is that the Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (10% of the assemblage) spent 12 months in oak barrels. Disgorged in January 2017 (dosage: six grams per liter), the 2006 has a golden color and opens with a deep, ripe, elegant and vinous bouquet with toasty and chalky lemon and fresh white fruit flavors. On the palate, this is an intense, round, fresh and complex Louis XV with great purity and finesse. The wine opens on the palate like a soufflé, coating the whole palate without any pressure or weight—gorgeous! This is a delicate and fresh yet well-structured and persistent Louis XV whose intense and long but weightless finish reveals lovely, almost juicy fruit concentration with perfectly integrated freshness and lasting minerality that seems to give additional structure. The 2006 shows a lot of Chardonnay features right now and drinks perfectly today; however, it can be kept under perfect conditions for decades. Just keep it in the box, because the bottle is white and nothing makes a Champagne age faster than exposure to daylight. (Tasted in November 2017 from Lot LL15067017BT.)-SR”

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Champagne de Venoge Louis XV Brut Millésimé, Champagne 2008 750ml ($299.95) $249 special, 12 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “This is really punchy and broad-shouldered with muscular structure and citrusy undertones. Full body. Lightly tannic and a fresh and vivid finish. This is the first vintage without malolactic fermentation ever. One for the cellar. Better in 2022.”
Wine Advocate 93+ points “The straw-yellow/white-golden colored 2008 Louis XV Brut Millésimé blends 50% Chardonnay (20 % from Avize, 15% from Oger and 15% from Mesnil) with 50% Pinot Noir (41.5% from Verzenay and 8.5% from Bouzy). Disgorged in January 2018 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2008 displays a clear, pure, fresh, chalky-tinged and vinous nose with lemon, white fruits, brioche, hazelnuts, white blossoms and some caramel notes. Pure, lean, fresh and elegant on the palate, with a lingering hazelnut flavor, this is a straight yet complex cuvée with grip and a long, well-structured and textured finish. This 2008 is still terribly fresh and should benefit from further bottle aging. For the moment, I am missing the mouth-filling generosity of the 2006 and 1995. Mind that this is the first vintage of de Venoge’s prestigious Louis XV where the base wines didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation! Total production: 10,326 bottles. Tasted October 2018.”

Champagne de Venoge Louis XV Brut Rosé Millésimé, Champagne 2002 750ml ($219.95) $189 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “Harmonious, with fine intensity, offering rich notes of spice cake, toasted almond, dried cherry, grilled plum and smoky mineral. Almost velvety in texture, with juicy acidity that brings you back for another sip. Delicious. Drink now through 2022. 54 cases made.”

Champagne de Venoge Tour Eiffel 130 Anniversary Edition, Champagne NV 750ml ($99.95) $79 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Envie de Champagne “The Maison De Venoge was founded in 1837 by Henri-Marc De Venoge. Innovation in the production and marketing of champagnes were the founding values of this of champagne house, which won the Excellence Price in Philadelphia in 1876. A few years later, in 1889, during the World Fair in Paris, the house became the partner of the event. This exhibition celebrated the centenary of the French Revolution and it is on this occasion that the Tower designed by Gustave Eiffel has been inaugurated. This monument, with a height of 312 meters during its construction can now 337 meters in 2019 following the installation of antennas. In addition to its cultural and tourist use, the Eiffel Tower is used as a transmitter for TV and radio programs. The Eiffel Tower, object of discord at the time of its creation has become today the most visited paying monument of France. It has about 7 million visitors a year. It is also inseparable from the history of the French capital. For the 130 years of this first collaboration, De Venoge signs a beautiful partnership with the company in charge of the exploitation of the iron lady (surname of the Eiffel Tower). This collaboration is obvious because of  the common history of both parties but also because of the characteristic shape of the bottles of the Princes cuvée. This limited edition vintage is named “Cuvée Princes Tour Eiffel”. Only 10,000 bottles have been marketed for this partnership.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Arriving in September:

Champagne de Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut, Champagne 2002 750ml ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 93 points “A core of mineral-accented smoke, spice and honey notes is wrapped with flavors of glazed apricot, lemon preserves and candied ginger in this vibrant and well-balanced version. Creamy, with a lasting finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases made. — AN”

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Collector’s Corner:

California Listicle, Part 2

Practicing both dry and organic farming, Christian Moueix’s Dominus Estate produces one of the most terroir expressive wines in the entirety of California. 

Dominus Estate Christian Moueix, Napa Valley 2019 750ml ($359.95) $319 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Dominus Estate Christian Moueix, Napa Valley 2019 1.5L ($799.95) $649 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, The Wine Independent 100 points “Composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot, the 2019 Dominus was harvested from September 29 to October 10. It was aged in 40% new oak. Deep garnet-purple colored, the nose slowly unfurls to unveil beguiling floral notes of candied violets and rose oil over a core of crème de cassis, blackberry pie, and plum preserves, giving way to notions of licorice, Indian spices, iron ore, and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, the palate is jam-packed with taut, muscular black fruit layers, intertwined with gorgeous floral and exotic spice accents, and framed by firm, finely grained tannins with seamless freshness, finishing long and mineral-laced. Tightly coiled with so much latent energy waiting to explode, this is a spectacular expression of the vintage and Napanook vineyard. Still tightly coiled, give it a good 6-7 years in the cellar before broaching, and allow it a few hours in a decanter if consumed before 2032.”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2019 Dominus is blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc, aged in 40% new French oak. Impressively dark-hued in the glass, it yields scents of cherries and cassis on the nose—or is it black cherries and redcurrants? Subtle notes of mocha, pencil shavings and almost Graves-like earthiness wind through the concentrated, medium to full-bodied palate, giving it a sense of savory gravitas, while the finish is silky and long, leaving a lingering residue of soft tannins and mouthwatering freshness.”

This nearly 40-year old “First Growth” of Napa winegrowing estate is a highly esteemed for its Bordeaux-style red. Their 2017 represents one of the finest wines of the vintage in Napa.

“Yields are down over 40%, so there’s not much to go around, but it’s certainly another fine vintage for this landmark estate that will keep for 30 years or more.” –Jeb Dunnuck

Harlan Estate, Napa Valley 2017 750ml ($1,499.95) $1,199 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate 97+ points “Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Harlan Estate needs a little coaxing to reveal captivating iron ore, red currant jelly, cloves and crushed rocks scents with a core of warm cassis, Black Forest cake and boysenberries plus a waft of pencil lead. Medium to full-bodied, it has a firm, grainy texture with a lively backbone and loads of earthy layers, long and mineral laced. This should be one of the longer-lived wines coming out of the 2017 vintage.”
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The Grand Vin is the 2017 Harlan Estate, and this beauty just about jumps from the glass with its pure cassis and blackcurrant fruits as well as notes of tobacco, graphite, crushed stone, and spice. With a full-bodied, expansive mouthfeel, building, velvety tannins, and a layered, seamless style that offers way more pleasure than just about every other wine in the vintage, bottles can be enjoyed any time over the coming 20-25 years.” 

Hundred Acre ‘Kayli Morgan Vineyard’ Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004 750ml ($699.95) $549 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Robert Parker 98 points “The wild man of Napa Valley, Jayson Woodbridge, has turned out one of the superstars of 2004, with the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan. His wines always tend to be gorgeous young, offering up an impression that they’re not going to last. But his first vintage, 2000, seems to get better and better, even though it was spectacular when released. The 2004, which was harvested in September, shows an almost Pomerol-like sweet mocha, kirsch, black currant and deeply fruited mouthfeel. It is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, but the clay soils of his vineyard seem to give a sweetness of tannin and a voluptuous character to the texture. This wine oozes rich, concentrated fruit, is light on its feet and has gorgeous purity, a multidimensional mouthfeel and a stunning finish. Silky black currant, kirsch, licorice, mocha and caramelized fruit make for a stunningly full-throttle, brilliant 2004 to enjoy over the next 15 or more years.” RP

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Lou Kapcsandy’s biography reads like a Horatio Alger story in a lot of ways.  Man flees communist Hungary, lands in the US and makes a name (and business) for himself. Grows to love the wines of Bordeaux, so he starts an import company before he stumbles upon a once-legendary vineyard in Napa that has been ripped up and needs to be revived.

And that’s where we pick up. In 2000 Lou Kapcsandy discovered that the old Beringer State Lane vineyard, primary source for the Private Reserve Cabernet program, was ripped out due to phylloxera and was for sale. He bought the twenty acre vineyard, replanted it and starting in 2005 began producing some of the most lauded wines to come out of the Napa Valley. The late Denis Malbec, formerly of Chateau Latour in Bordeaux, got the project up and running and served as a consulting viticulturist and winemaker, producing wines of depth and power.  These are Napa wines with a Bordeaux spine and sensibility.

Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Grand-Vin Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2009 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Antonio Galloni 98 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.”

“Bob Levy has been the winemaker at Harlan Estate since its inception, and, along with owner Bill Harlan, is in the process of making Bond as prodigious as Harlan Estate. Martha McClellan is the winemaker for two Napa Valley superstar cult wineries, Blankiet and Sloan. As I have written in the past, these efforts are produced by two quiet, somewhat reclusive individuals with extraordinary resumes, limitless talent, and a perfectionist, nearly obsessive attitude toward making world-class wines.” -Robert Parker, Wine Advocate

Levy & McClellan Red (Cabernet Sauvignon), Napa Valley 2006 750ml ($799.95) $599 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Robert Parker 95 points “The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon displays beautifully sweet blue and black fruits intermixed with espresso roast, smoked meats, chocolate, and scorched earth. Dense purple in color, deep, rich, broad, with plenty of tannin and concentration as well as noticeable oak, this wine is a massive Cabernet meant for long-term cellaring. I wouldn’t touch a bottle for 6 to 8 years, then watch it unfold over the following 25-30.”
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “(includes bits of cabernet franc and petit verdot) Deep red-ruby. Complex, inviting aromas of cassis, graphite, menthol and sexy new oak. Very ripe but bright and classic, with terrific lift to the cassis, mineral and dark chocolate flavors. This boasts remarkably deep fruit for seven-year-old vines and finishes with very sweet, suave tannins and superb length. Husband-and-wife team Bob Levy and Martha McClellan, who are also responsible for making Harlan, Bond, Blankiet and Sloan, consider their 2005 to be a bit more layered and complex, but this one is also a star of its vintage.”

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Peter Michael ‘Les Pavots’ Estate Red, Knights Valley 2019 750ml ($249.95) $219 special, 12 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 99 points “This is very perfumed with blackberry and pine-cone aromas, as well as raspberries and black cherries. Full-bodied with firm, velvety tannins that are tight-grained. Creamy and beautiful. Currant and graphite flavors come through. Lightly chewy at the end. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot, 14% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot. Drink after 2025.”

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