In This Newsletter:

Grandes Marques Champagnes
 
We’re featuring some of our favorite Champagnes from the Big Houses, including:

Louis Roederer & Cristal
De Venoge & Louis XV
Pommery & Cuvée Louise
Andre Clouet & Un Jour de 1911 & Dream Vintages

and more!

 

One of the most esteemed Grand Marques of Champagne, Louis Roederer has become synonymous with quality and sustainability. Converting their estate vineyards to organic and biodynamic farming practices and high-density plantings, which all help lower yields and improve quality, these are meticulously farmed plots that are each vinified separately for precision blending. Favoring Chardonnay, the resulting wines are among the most age-worthy and elegant on the market.

Roederer’s Cristal is one most sought-after bottlings in Champagne—a tête du cuvée that always lives up to the (enthusiastic) hype. Cristal Vinothèque—a late released bottling—represents the absolute pinnacle of what Roederer is capable of.

In Stock Now from Louis Roederer:

Louis Roederer Collection 244 Brut NV 750ml $59 special, 33 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 93+ points “Based on the 2019 vintage, Roederer’s NV Brut Collection 244 is the finest release of the house’s reimagined non-vintage Brut to date. Offering up aromas of pear, peach and nectarine mingled with notions of white flowers, beeswax, freshly baked bread and buttery pastry, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a pretty pinpoint mousse, racy acids and a long, chalky finish. The quality of the base vintage really shines through.”
James Suckling 94 points “The first impression is as invigorating as a sea breeze. I love the interplay of mirabelle, grapefruit and lychee fruit with minty freshness and waxiness from lees contact. And all this is welded to a beautifully proportioned palate with plenty of structure, the acidity bright and the mousse animating. Very salty finish that pulls you back for more. A cuvee of 41% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir and 26% pinot meunier. Of these, 15% fermented in oak and 85% in stainless steel. The final blend contained 36% reserve perpetual and 10% reserve wines of the 2012 – 2018 vintage from oak. The dosage is 7 g/l. Drink or hold.”

Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV 6L $599 special, 1 six-liter bottle available
*****In-store pick up only. Shipping not available.*****
James Suckling 93 points “This has a core of fresh, extremely fleshy and attractive peaches and lemons from a ripe year. The delicacy and purity of this Champagne is stunning, as is its gently powerful nature. Such great purity here. In great form! Drink now.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Racy acidity drives this sleek Champagne, swathed in a lovely, creamy mousse as it carries a finely meshed range of poached pear and star fruit, pickled ginger and Meyer lemon zest. Lithe and graceful, with a lasting, mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2025.”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2002 750ml $599 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 100 points “Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts…….The texture, breadth, and overall pedigree here is just remarkable, with layers of apricot, spice, dried flowers, and citrus conft that continue to build over time. The 2002 is neither old nor young; it is quite simply eternal…..”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 98 points “Roederer’s 2002 Cristal is a fabulous wine! Originally released in 2009, it was re-released in March this year—and was sold out in a very short time… the nose of the 2002 Cristal shows a deep, ripe and elegant fruit with aromas of white chocolate, wet chalk, wild vanilla and pepper (typical for 2002) as well as terroir-driven truffle notes. Intense and very elegant in the mouth, this is a ripe, rich and concentrated yet also pure and vital Cristal with great finesse, elegance and mineral complexity. It’s a sublime Champagne right now, although it’s more wine than Champagne.”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2006 750ml $459 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 97 points “The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or more. This shows real density and tons of character. It’s a big wine. “In retrospect, we might have preferred a lower dosage, but the wine was quite difficult to balance in blending, so we had to go for a higher dosage,” Lécaillon adds.”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2008 750ml $619 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 99 points “The 2008 Cristal is just starting to open and into its first plateau of what is likely to be a very long drinking window. Bright and intensely saline, with terrific depth, Cristal shows everything that makes this vintage so appealing, namely a captivating mix of fruit intensity and bright, piercing acids. As alluring as the 2008 is today, it also needs time to be at its very best. Roederer launched the more open 2009 ahead of the 2008, which means the 2008 saw ten years on the lees, quite a bit longer than most vintages, all of which it needed. The 2008 seems to presage a new era at Roederer in which the wines have been consistently brilliant…”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2012 750ml $519 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 98 points “The 2012 Cristal is the first made entirely from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Passionfruit, mango, spice and ginger open first, but it is the wine’s textural richness and volume that stand out most. The 2012 is one of the most opulent, flamboyant recent Cristals. Those qualities feel especially amplified in this tasting, perhaps because of the presence of wines from the surrounding vintages. It was a complicated season, as mildew reduced yields significantly, resulting in an especially rich Cristal that seems to be gaining intensity with time in bottle…”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2014 750ml $349 special, 3 bottles in stock now
#1 Top 100 Cellar Selections 2022 – Wine Enthusiast
Wine Spectator 98 points “This vivid Champagne shows up-front and linear definition, thanks to rapierlike acidity, with finely meshed flavors of ripe black cherry and mandarin orange fruit, raw almond, anise and cardamom spice as well as a touch of honeycomb, which all unfurl and expand on the fine, creamy palate. Sleek acidity continues through to the finish, with additional racy character provided by a streak of minerally saline and chalk, which gains momentum through the midpalate and rings out on the well-cut, lasting finish…”
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 98 points “The 2014 Cristal is another in a long line of gorgeous wines from Roederer and long-time Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon. A dazzling, vibrant Champagne, the 2014 impresses with a stunning combination of fruit density and linear energy that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of 2012 and 2008. At times, the bubbles feel totally wrapped up in waves of creamy, resonant fruit to the point the mousse is barely perceptible, especially with aeration. The flavors are bright and finely sculpted, leaning very much into the citrus, floral and mineral end of the spectrum… The 2014 Cristal is a riveting Champagne. Don’t miss it.”
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Cellar Selection. Still young, with toast aromas and shining white-fruit flavors, the latest release of Cristal is just setting out. A dry, tight core of intense flavors are shot through with minerality from the pure chalk soil of the 45 individual parcels in the blend. Drink this wine from 2025. Organic. -Roger Voss”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2014 Cristal is a terrific effort that transcends the vintage. Bursting from the glass with expressive aromas of ripe citrus fruit, nectarine, white flowers, freshly baked bread and subtle hints of honeycomb, it’s medium to full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with an exuberant core of fruit that’s girdled by racy acids, resulting in a wine that’s simultaneously chiseled and demonstrative, meaning that early appeal doesn’t come at the expense of the requisite tension for long-term cellaring. Concluding with a long, aromatic and intensely chalky finish, it is a brilliant Champagne that will offer a broad drinking window…”
Simon Field MW-Decanter 95 points “The rollercoaster growing season of 2014 is reflected to perfection by the innate tension here; ripe citric fruit and even a touch of exoticism (mango and fig) tempered by a fine shard of acidity and a lifted ethereal character, described paradoxically by chef de caves Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon as ‘weightless density’. Purity, energy and power make for very happy bedfellows, courtesy the chalky terroir and its organic husbandry. The texture is silky, the bubbles joyfully integrated and the finish resourceful and precise, its salinity deferential to the deep-digging roots…”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut 2015 750ml $379 special, 6 bottles in stock now
The Wine Independent 98 points “The 2015 Cristal is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. No malo-lactic was employed and 25% wine was aged in oak. The dosage is 7 grams per liter. An exquisitely delicate yet complex perfume of clover honey freshly shaved ginger marzipan and jasmine slowly emerges from the nose giving way to a core of pear tart persimmons and apple butter. The palate is an exercise in finesse featuring very fine bubbles and fantastic intensity with a myriad of spice and floral nuances finishing with impressive persistence and jaw-dropping poise. This is a style for those that embrace purity soft-spoken expression and impeccable crafting. It won’t disappoint those who love Champagne in its initial youthful perfume flushes yet will undoubtedly reward the patient with a richer toastier more obvious and opulent style with 5-10 years+ of cellaring.”
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 96 points “I have tasted the 2015 Cristal three times so far – once as part of an extensive vertical I will be reporting on shortly and then later in my office. Those tastings paint a portrait of a complex Champagne that is still finding its center. Tasted at the maison the 2015 is rich dense and explosive with tremendous textural intensity and also a good bit of energy to back it up. Citrus confit spice ginger chalk and dried flowers abound in a Champagne endowed with tremendous aromatic presence in a style that offers notable richness but lighter than vintages such as 2012. There is a bit of the savoriness that is such a signature of the year but it is nicely integrated in the wine’s fabric. Two later tastings in my office strongly suggest the 2015 has already started to shut down a bit which is a shame as it may be hard to read for some time to come…”

Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Rosé 2013 750ml $619 special, 3 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 99 points “A candidate for wine-of-the-vintage honors in Champagne, Roederer’s 2013 Cristal Rosé is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, red berries, stone fruit, freshly baked bread and tangerine oil. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, the vintage’s bright girdling acids are amply cloaked in exuberant, expressive and notably concentrated fruit; so while this Cristal is as tensile and age-worthy as one would expect, it’s also impressively fleshy and generous given the year. Concluding with an intensely sapid finish, the 2013 isn’t as overtly structured as the muscular, tightly wound 2012: rather, it’s the 2013’s alliance of cut and flesh, precision and charm that’s so compelling this year. This is another banner vintage for what I consider the reigning champion of the region’s tête de cuvée bottlings, and it will be worth an effort to acquire.”
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 98 points “The 2013 Cristal Rosé is searingly intense right out of the glass, just like the Blanc, except it has a bit more fleshiness because of the skin contact on the Pinot. Cristal Rosé has one of the best track records for aging in Champagne. I suspect the 2013 will join the ranks of the epic vintages, but it is painfully tight today…”
Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “If you’re a Champagne lover and this doesn’t do it for you, I don’t know what will. A magical Champagne that’s just about as good as it gets, the 2013 Cristal Rosé reveal a lighter salmon hue to go with a rich yet also subtle nose of orange blossom, white flowers, toasted brioche, and chalky minerality. It takes some coaxing but is incredibly complex aromatically and offers more spice, dried strawberry, and library book-like nuances as it sets in the glass. Richly textured on the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied and has surprising opulence as well as a great mid-palate, all of which are balanced by a vibrant spine of acidity. It starts out seemingly soft and easygoing yet changes with air, and it possesses an incredible mix of suppleness, texture, and precision that is something to behold. It can be drunk today or cellared for 20 or 30 years, possibly even longer.”
Wine & Spirits 98 points “Cristal Rosé appears to be an effortless wine, a pleasure point somewhere between masculine strength and feminine beauty. The delicate rose color and lasting red fruit describe ripe peach, the scent of bee pollen, savory herbs and smoke, but what astonishes about this wine is the kind of power that pheromones have, well past the edges of perception. A blend of Aÿ pinot noir and Avize chardonnay, all mid-slope parcels, all on chalk soils, this is glorious wine to enjoy now, while it holds the inner tension and bold compression of flavors to develop for decades.”

Louis Roederer Cristal Vinothèque Edition Brut 1999 750ml $1,245 special, 3 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 98 points “The nose has such beautiful, autolysis character with brown-mushroom and toasted-almond aromas. The nose has still-fresh lemons and oyster shell. Very smooth, pastry-like texture on the palate with even layers and a core of fresh lemons and peaches. The striking thing here is the balance and melted-together complexity. In a very great place. This spent seven years sur latte, seven sur pointe and was disgorged in 2014. Drink now.” [Reviewed 2019]
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 97 points “Roederer’s 1999 Cristal Vinothèque is endowed with tremendous power and concentration, especially for a Champagne of its age. Palate staining minerals, chalk, white pepper, mint, citrus and orchard fruit soar out of the glass. Tasted next to the Rosé the Blanc has a slightly more toasty character along with more body and a stronger presence of the mousse, which in this wine wraps around the fruit. At the time, Cristal was made from 37 parcels. The Pinots were a blend from Aÿ (where the wines are naturally riper) and Verzenay, Verzy and Beaumont-sur-Vesle, (where Pinots are nervy and taut), while the Chardonnay was sourced from Avize, Mesnil and Cramant. Dosage is 7-8 grams per liter.” [Reviewed 2020]

 

De Venoge is an old-school Champagne House that’s relatively unknown in the United States due to their immense popularity in Europe. This means that even their finest and rarest wines continue to be undervalued relative to their peers on our shores.

De Venoge was established in Champagne in the first part of the 19th century by Swiss born Henri-Marc de Venoge and his son Joseph. Today the House has a strong following in Europe for good reason—they source from some of the best vineyards in Champagne and produce prestige cuvées of immense quality, built on long lees aging.

This is no better exemplified than their prestige cuvee, the Louis XV. Named after Louis the 15th, who first authorized the bottling of Champagne, the fruit for this bottling is sourced exclusively from Grand Cru villages such as Verzenay, Bouzy, Avize, and Le Mesnil. The wine sees extensive aging on its lees and is a true monument of vintage Champagne.

The resulting wines capture the essence of classical Champagne and are in high demand in Europe’s top restaurants. They are outstanding wine sfor lovers of truly mature Champagne in all its glory, offering a rich, creamy texture from the extended lees aging married to surprisingly fresh, mineral personalities.

In Stock Now from De Venoge:

De Venoge ‘Cordon Bleu’ Brut 2002 750ml $79 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “A core of mineral-accented smoke, spice and honey notes is wrapped with flavors of glazed apricot, lemon preserves and candied ginger in this vibrant and well-balanced version. Creamy, with a lasting finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases made. — AN”

De Venoge Louis XV Brut 2006 750ml $189 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “…the 2006 has a golden color and opens with a deep, ripe, elegant and vinous bouquet with toasty and chalky lemon and fresh white fruit flavors. On the palate, this is an intense, round, fresh and complex Louis XV with great purity and finesse. The wine opens on the palate like a soufflé, coating the whole palate without any pressure or weight—gorgeous! This is a delicate and fresh yet well-structured and persistent Louis XV whose intense and long but weightless finish reveals lovely, almost juicy fruit concentration with perfectly integrated freshness and lasting minerality that seems to give additional structure. The 2006 shows a lot of Chardonnay features right now and drinks perfectly today; however, it can be kept under perfect conditions for decades…”

De Venoge Louis XV Brut 2008 750ml $249 special, 33 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “This is really punchy and broad-shouldered with muscular structure and citrusy undertones. Full body. Lightly tannic and a fresh and vivid finish. This is the first vintage without malolactic fermentation ever. One for the cellar. Better in 2022.”
Wine Advocate 93+ points “…the 2008 displays a clear, pure, fresh, chalky-tinged and vinous nose with lemon, white fruits, brioche, hazelnuts, white blossoms and some caramel notes. Pure, lean, fresh and elegant on the palate, with a lingering hazelnut flavor, this is a straight yet complex cuvée with grip and a long, well-structured and textured finish. This 2008 is still terribly fresh and should benefit from further bottle aging. For the moment, I am missing the mouth-filling generosity of the 2006 and 1995. Mind that this is the first vintage of de Venoge’s prestigious Louis XV where the base wines didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation!”

De Venoge Louis XV Extra Brut Rosé 2002 750ml $189 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “Harmonious, with fine intensity, offering rich notes of spice cake, toasted almond, dried cherry, grilled plum and smoky mineral. Almost velvety in texture, with juicy acidity that brings you back for another sip. Delicious. Drink now through 2022. 54 cases made.”

 

You’ve heard of the Champagne widow and pioneer Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin (also known as Madame Clicquot), but have you heard of Louise Pommery? While you can be forgiven for not knowing her, Champagne as we know it would not exist without her contributions. In the 1870’s Champagne was one of the sweetest wines of the world for a number of reasons. The first and foremost was to balance out the otherwise searing acidity that was seen in Champagnes of the period. The second was to cater to commercial preferences of the era, particularly from the Russian royal family and their contemporaries who loved exceptionally sweet wines.

This all changed when Madame Louise Pommery commissioned her cellar master to make a Champagne with as little added sugar as possible, creating the category we now know to be “Brut”. The debut vintage was an overnight success in England, which had developed a preference for drier styles of wine. The Brut style redefined Champagne and is now the typical style by far.

The top Champagne from Pommery is named after Madame Louise. In honor of her legacy, it has the barest amount of sugar added. Comprised of three Grand Cru vineyard sources in Avize, Cramant, and Aÿ, it is aged for eleven years on its lees before disgorgement. The blend itself is predominantly Chardonnay with Pinot Noir. The Grand Cru sources for the fruit are clearly evident in the concentrated flavors, strong mineral character and high acidity. This is Champagne built for the long haul.

We also carry a number of magnums, back vintages and the elusive Rosé bottling from the mineral and joyful 2004 vintage, in its prime drinking window now!

In Stock Now from Pommery:

Pommery Grand Cru Brut 2008 750ml $79 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Decanter-World Wine Awards 94 points “Melon, peach and toast bouquet. Superbly fresh palate with an elegant texture, mouthwatering acidity and confit lemon, dark chocolate and bitter orange flavours.”

Pommery Cuvée Louise Rosé Brut 2004 750ml $219 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “This is a new release and shows wonderful finesse and beauty. You know that the moment you see the pale-amber color. It’s medium bodied with freshness and energy and a long, vivid finish. A joy to taste. Drink now.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Ripe strawberry and baked white cherry flavors are set on the creamy mousse of this bright rosé Champagne, underscored by hints of almond biscotti and candied pink grapefruit peel. Clean-cut and minerally on the zesty finish. Drink now through 2027…”

Pommery Cuvée Louise Brut Nature 2004 750ml $149 special, 10 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points “A creamy and refined 2004 with a very reserved and tight palate of ultra fine tannins that lend the wine beautiful creaminess and finesse. Subtly floral, offering lightly cooked apples and lemons. Flavorful, yet always hiding behind the fine bubbles. Drink now.”

Pommery Cuvée Louise Brut 2004 750ml $125 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Pommery Cuvée Louise Brut 2004 1.5L $279 special, 4 magnums in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “A very fine-textured Champagne with lovely density and finesse. The bubbles roll off the palate. Full body. Extremely creamy and flavorful. Shows wonderful finesse and a lovely, chalky, lemon-curd and brioche aftertaste. Drink now.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Pommery’s prestige Champagne is named after one of the great Champagne widows of the 19th century who took over when her husband, Alexandre Pommery, died. It is a rich, mature wine, with toast and almond flavors as much as fruit. Full of mineral Chardonnay (60% of the blend), this ripe wine is very ready to drink.”

 

Founded in 1741, the Champagne House of Andre Clouet has been making some of the most recognizable Champagnes in their entire village for centuries. Jean-Francois Clouet, the current owner and winemaker, is committed to making wines that reflect the rich history of the region. His wines do just that, while representing some of the best values available.

Clouet sources his cuvees from the assorted plots in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. The village specializes in powerfully structured Pinot Noir.  His latest releases offer ethereal fruit, dense minerality, and effusive aromatics. Andre Clouet has been the unofficial house Champagne of Vinopolis for years, and is always worth having on hand as a budget-friendly way to elevate your next meal or party.

Highlights In Stock Now from Andre Clouet:

Andre Clouet Un jour de 1911… Brut NV 750ml $85 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 96 points “[Reviewed 2021] The NV Un jour de 1911… is another 100% Bouzy Pinot Noir with an ancient label design. The shining golden-colored cuvée combines ripeness, complexity and finesse with intensity and elegance on both the nose and palate. It’s a powerful and rich yet very fine and balanced Champagne with great freshness and complex length. It is juicy and intense but also highly delicate, and its mineral tension and persistent finish make it a first-class wine for elaborate dishes. A great Champagne, with a label that doesn’t give any more detailed information regarding vintages or disgorgement date, but we know it’s always a 50/50 blend of three vintages (including one great millésime at least 10 years old) and reserve wines from a solera system. I tasted the wine as a Brut with Clouet’s German importer in Bremen. You shouldn’t drink it too early, as it would be a waste of its talents.”

The “Dream Vintage” Champagnes from Andre Clouet celebrate exceptional vintages. The Champagnes are 100% Chardonnay, a true Blanc de Blancs, with grapes sourced from Grand Cru sites. The wines themselves are captivating and extraordinarily delicious, each individually expressing the nuances of their great terroir. These are held on the lees until release and disgorged to order, so the older the vintage, the more lees-influenced the wines.

Andre Clouet ‘Dream Vintage’ Brut 2006 750ml $75 special, 13 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “A rich and almost opulent champagne for lovers of mature chardonnay. As much melted butter as candied-lemon and orange character. Glides over the palate into the very silky finish, the touch of salinity creating a wonderful tension with the creaminess. 100% chardonnay. Drink or hold.”

Andre Clouet ‘Dream Vintage’ Brut 2008 750ml $85 special, 19 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 96 points “Such a classic Blanc de Blancs champagne with the special elegance, brilliance and minerality of the 2008 vintage. Very well structured, but without the austere acidity structure that some 2008s have. Long and very clean finish that sends you back to the glass. 100% chardonnay. Drink or hold.”

Shop all of our Andre Clouet selections, including the 2009, 2013, and 2013 Dream Vintages on our webstore now!

 

Newly Arrived!
Krug Grande Cuvée 171eme Edition Brut NV 750ml $279 special, 6 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 99 points “The tightness and tension of this is impressive considering the youngest wine from this is 2015 (hot and dry year), with some wines going back to 2000. Ginger and orange zest. Some creme brulee. It’s medium-bodied with apple, pie crust and floral character. It’s salty and zesty yet, at the same time, complex and gorgeous. Chamomile and other floral teas highlight everything. Turns rich and flavorful at the finish. Terrific release. Really takes off at the end. Drink or hold.’
Wine Spectator 96 points “A vivid Champagne, with chiseled acidity and a fine, vivacious mousse creating a buoyant frame for layered flavors of crushed black raspberry, grilled nuts, pink grapefruit sorbet and coffee liqueur, plus fragrant accents of ground ginger and anise, graphite and lime blossoms. Long and expressive on the finish, crackling with a lingering fleur de sel note.”

Newly Arrived!
Dom Perignon Brut 2013 750ml $289 special, 3 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 98 points “A driven and serious DP with aromas of chalk, biscuits, apricot stones and lemons. Some spice and dried flowers, too. So sleek and sophisticated. Elegant. Yet, it’s long and powerful, with a sharp minerality. Tight and precise. Reminds me of bottles from the 1980s, such as 1988. It really takes off…”
Wine Spectator 96 points “Vivid acidity and a chalky underpinning make a crystalline frame for finely detailed notes of ripe melon, mandarin orange, toasted brioche and candied ginger in this harmonious Champagne, which is expressive and expansive on the palate, but with a sense of finesse and restraint. Long and creamy on the mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2037.”
Jasper Morris-Inside Burgundy 96 points “Yet another scintillating wine from Dom Perignon. A youthful but complex bouquet: flowery notes of acacia honey emerge from a base of yellow plum. On the palate, the attack is dry and intense; succulent yellow fruit drenched in walnut oil builds on the mid palate. Superb balance! Long, zesty acidity returns to the finish refreshing the palate. Already very approachable with its generous fruit and sapid mouthfeel. This champagne will most certainly improve over the next decade! Superb! Drink from 2025-2036. Tasted: January 2023.”
Decanter 96 points “Silky, narrowly sculpted and serene, Dom Pérignon 2013 is a less hedonistic release than the 2012 (and less intensely energetic than the 2008), but showcases a beautiful mid-place between tension and expressiveness already. Orange-coloured fruit – apricots, mango and orange – play along with snappy lemon syrup and delicate red fruits, the palate teased into considerable detail and length with some trademark Dom Pérignon smokiness. There is immediate pleasure here, although cellaring will let some of the inner complexity unfurl, revealing this to the among the finest Dom Pérignon releases of recent times…”

Pol Roger Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2015 750ml $349 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 points “The 2015 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill shows off the savory side of the vintage to great effect. Hints of dried pear, sage, mint, dried flowers, lemon oil and chamomile open gradually in this mid-weight, lithe edition of Pol Roger’s tête de cuvée. The 2015 unfolds nicely with time in the glass, but I wouldn’t think of opening a bottle anytime soon. Readers will find a nervy Winston Churchill marked by notable freshness and vigor more than size. This is a fine effort in a vintage that has proven to be far trickier than most observers originally envisioned… “
Wine Advocate 94+ points “A strong effort in a less-acclaimed vintage, Pol Roger’s newly released 2015 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill opens in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, ripe orchard fruits and dried white flowers mingled with hints of honeycomb, freshly baked bread and anise. Medium to full-bodied, vinous and concentrated, with bright acids, chalky structuring extract and a pinpoint mousse, this inherently rather rich, gastronomic Champagne is quite tightly wound out of the gates and will reward a bit of bottle age. Stylistically, it is somewhat reminiscent of a modern-day version of the 1985.”

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle Alexandra Rosé Brut 1990 750ml $599 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “Beautifully done. Vigorous and almost chewy, this intense, full-bodied rosé exudes mint, berry and wood aromas and flavors. Muscular and dense, with a character that engages the palate and needs contemplation or food.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “It’s a pale wine, on the rose side of gold, a beautiful visual introduction to a stunning wine. The strawberry flavors are wrapped in a silvery texture, crisply dry, and despite the intensity of fruit, the wine seems weightless on the palate. It’s gorgeous now, but, amazingly, just a baby. Its long-term future is assured. Twenty years from now, this will be heavenly.”

Drappier Carte d’Or Brut NV 750ml $39 special, 25 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 91 points “Drappier’s new NV Brut Carte d’Or delivers attractive aromas of golden orchard fruit, stone fruit, honeycomb and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s charming and elegantly vinous, with a flavorful core of fruit, lively acids and a chalky finish.”
Wine Spectator 90 points “Racy acidity enlivens this crisp and lacy Champagne. Well-knit, with the delicate mix of ripe white cherry, blanched almond, yellow plum and grated ginger flavors. Drink now. 3,000 cases imported.”

Duval-Leroy Femme de Champagne Grand Cru Brut 2000 1.5L $299 special, 2 magnums in stock now
*****In-store pick up only. Shipping not available.*****
Wine Spectator 94 points “A rich version, with beautiful integration and mouthwatering acidity that seems to amplify the flavors of toasted raisin bread, black currant, candied orange zest and salted almond. Fresh and focused, showing hints of oyster shell and spice on the lasting finish.”

Piper-Heidsieck Prohibition Cuvée Brut NV 750ml $49 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Winery note “To commemorate the 100th anniversary since the beginning of Prohibition, Piper-Heidsieck invites you to enjoy its Cuvee Brut with a ‘Roaring Twenties’ ambiance.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “[Reviewed 2023] Finely balanced and fresh, with the delicate bead carrying appealing ripe black cherry and green apple fruit, plus a fragrant mix of lime blossom, saffron, toasted almond and ground coffee details. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Drink now.”

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin La Grande Dame Brut Yayoi Kusama Edition 2012 750ml $189 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “#3 WOTY 2020. With a slight preponderance of Pinot Noir in the blend, this wine is rich and impressive. It is still young, with a crisp edge that makes the fruit shine. Apple and citrus flavors are integrated into a mineral vein. Drink from 2022. -Roger Voss”
Decanter 96 points “A generous golden colour betrays the dominance of Pinot Noir in the blend; this theme thereafter maintained by aromatics of fig, wild strawberries and Mirabelle plums; behind that, jasmine, red apples and a distant whiff of woodsmoke. Engaging already, in other words… I have every confidence that this characteristic will come into its own over the longer term and mark the 2012 as one of the more successful outings for this outstanding cuvée. Drinking Window 2020 – 2036.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Fine and graceful, this dances across the palate with its bright, well-defined freshness and detailed flavors of Mandarin orange, toast point, crème de cassis and minerally oyster shell. Subtle in its intensity, with all the pieces seamlessly knit into an elegant whole. Disgorged September 2019. Drink now through 2030. — AN”

Taittinger Brut Millesime 2015 750ml $99 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2015 Champagne Millésime Brut is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The nose is fragrant with ripe peach and rose petal, and it has a rich texture, with a more viscous feel, and note of yellow flowers and Anjou pear. It speaks to the ripeness of the vintage, but it is long on the palate and has a light phenolic finish. I think this is ready to drink now.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Vibrant and harmonious, with a pleasing range of ripe pear and nectarine, toast point and salted almond, candied lemon peel and spun honey riding the finely detailed bead. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2030. 500 cases imported.”

Please note that disgorgement dates may vary from the reviews.

Shop our incredible selection off over 180 in-stock Champagnes on our webstore now!

 

In This Newsletter:

Pascal Doquet: A Treasure in the Côte des Blancs



Reminder: Mountains of Magnums Sale Ends Sunday!

5% off any 3-5 in-stock magnums
10% off any 6+ in-stock magnums
Offer Ends Sunday, December 24th at 4:30 pm Pacific
 
Offer only applies to in-stock, non-sparkling wines.
Does not apply to Champagnes, other sparkling wines, or pre-arrivals.

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“It’s the viticulture that makes the difference, not the vinification.” -Pascal Doquet

With an eye towards thoughtful, organic farming, Pascal Doquet epitomizes grower Champagne. Not only does his estate encompass some of the finest terroir in all of Champagne in the illustrious Côte des Blancs, his organic-certified parcels boast significant amounts of old vines. His resulting Champagnes are a magnificent tribute to his masterful and conscientious farming.

Since 1982, Doquet has worked his family’s estate alongside his father. He took over completely in 1995 and began rolling out more environmentally-friendly practices under the French concept of lutte raisonnée. His passion for the vineyards and for his farming methods came to a head in 2004, when his sister forced the break-up of the family estate, Doquet-Jeanmaire, to farm more conventionally. (It was a different time, especially in Champagne, which only recently saw organic and biodynamic farming take off. Even today, only one Grande Marque, Roederer, boasts significant biodynamic holdings.) No longer retrained by other voices, Doquet named his estate after himself and began converting his holdings to certified organic. Today, he has nine hectares of vines in the villages of Vertus, Le Mont Aimé and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger.

Doquet’s vines are farmed with cover crops and managed by hand or by ultra-light tractor so as to not compact the chalk and silex (flint) soils. In the fields, he limits use of copper, allowed in organic farming but controversial since it accumulates in the soil. Grapes are hand-harvested and rigorously sorted before undergoing a gentle pressing in the winery. Fermentation occurs in enamel-lined tanks or neutral oak using indigenous yeast with extended aging on the gross lees. Doquet limits the use of sulfur, and the wines naturally undergo malolactic fermentation.  

Though the wines are rarely reviewed, most recent notes can be found from Stephan Reinhardt of the Wine Advocate in 2018. Reinhardt wrote up the 2006 releases and their accompanying NVs. Much of his prose is dedicated to descriptions of the mineral character of the wine, with repeated use of terms such as saline, chalky, iodine, flinty, or crystalline. While rich in mineral notes, these wines are not austere. Instead, they deliver generous layers of fruit and leesy character balanced by refreshing elegance.

These are grower Champagnes in the truest sense of the term, strikingly beautiful, and extremely limited in quantity.

“The wines of Pascal Doquet burst with energy and verve and deliver mineral-laden, multi-layered expressions of his terroirs.  These are wines for people looking to experience the scintillating flavors of the Côte-des-Blancs ‘sans maquillage’ (without makeup).” -Schatzi Wines

In Stock Now from Pascal Doquet:

Pascal Doquet ‘Arpege’ Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut (2017-base) NV 750ml $69 special, 28 bottles in stock now
Importer note “The chardonnay for “Arpège” comes from Vertus, Villeneuve and Mont Aimé—the grapes that are not in the Coeur de Terroir series. There is substantial reserve wine in the blend, preserved in enamel tanks to maintain freshness. Aromas of spice, black tea and pear dominate the flinty-silex soils from the Mont Aimé and lend smokiness and depth to the structure.”

Pascal Doquet ‘Arpege’ Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut (2015-base) NV 750ml $59 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Arpège is now the basic, non-vintage wine at the estate, with the “Horizon” bottling now being firmly established in other markets… “Arpège” is in a different league; it’s finer in tone and more complex. The chardonnay comes from Vertus, Villeneuve and Mont Aimé—the grapes that are not in the Coeur de Terroir series… There is substantial reserve wine in the blend, preserved in enamel tanks to maintain freshness. Aromas of spice, black tea and pear dominate the flinty-silex soils from the Mont Aimé and lend smokiness and depth to the structure.”

Pascal Doquet ‘Arpege’ Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut Nature NV 750ml $59 special, 1 bottle in stock now
Producer note “100% Chardonnay from the south of the Cote des Blancs. 66% vintage 2015 and 34% ‘reserve perpetuelle’ wines. Bottled in April 2015 and disgorged in February 2022. Brut nature.”

Pascal Doquet ‘Champs Libres’ Blanc de Blancs Brut (2018-base) NV 750ml $49 special, 28 bottles in stock now
100% Chardonnay from 2018. Vinification 100% in vats.

Pascal Doquet ‘Diapason’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut (2015-base) NV 750ml $89 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Pascal Doquet ‘Diapason’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 1.5L $169 special, 2 magnums in stock now
Importer note “Pascal’s grandfather consolidated to 1 hectare in which Pascal still owns 60 acres of, including “Les Migraines” where he has very old vines, planted in 1929. Approximately half is fermented in enamel and the rest in neutral barrel. It’s as impressive a non-vintage Champagne as is available anywhere. There are aromas of ginger, anise, zest and sandalwood, and the Champagne emphasizes the spicy characteristics of Le Mesnil. The wine finishes with some cut which helps focus the finish.”

Pascal Doquet Grand Cru Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2009 750ml $149 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Winery note “Pascal is fortunate to have some very old parcels in the mid-slope of this renowned Grand Cru village. His grandfather consolidated nearly a hectare of vines in Champ d’Alouettes, of which Pascal owns 60% of the original holdings. He also has very old vines in Les Migraines planted in 1929, as well as Chétillons, Coullemets and Finciarts. From these sites, Doquet selects the best lots and vinifies them for the Coeur de Terroir range. Aged for 12 years sur latte, this wine was disgorged with a mere 2 grams MCR. It’s Pascal’s most complex wine, showing ginger, anise and blueberry.”

Pascal Doquet Le Mont Aime Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut 2009 750ml $95 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Importer note “The Mont Aimé lieu-dit is east of Vertus and faces due south. Even so, it is a cooler microclimate than Pascal’s parcels in Le Mesnil and Vertus and ripening here can happen a week later. Previous vintages were fermented in tank to support the racy, linear style of the wine, but as things evolve, Pascal now ferments roughly half in neutral barrel and half in enamel lined stainless steel tanks, which brings out a cool blueberry and smoky characteristic common to flinty, silex soils.”

Pascal Doquet Champ d’Alouettes Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger 2004 750ml $179 special, 12 bottles in stock
From the single vineyard Champ d’Alouettes in the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the rarest of his cuvees.

We are proud to offer these limited-availability wines. While the production amounts aren’t high, we strive to offer you a wide selection. Champagnes of this quality and scarcity are generally double or triple the price! So act now before someone else does…