n Today’s Newsletter:Rose All Day… …And Rose All Night New Selections from Rosenthal and WeygandtClassical St. Emilion from Chateau GrandchampHighlights of Tuscany: A Slew of High Scoring Tuscan BottlesTop Wines from Spain’s Lost Great RegionServin’s Stellar 2017 Chablis
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Due to technical issues, not all wines may be listed on our web store at the time of publication. To order, please email, call or drop by!Thank you!
Rosé Arrival Season is here! We’ve got a big set of rosés arriving this week—some on Tuesday and some this coming Friday. Each is from one of our favorite importers (Weygandt and Rosenthal, respectively) and so we’re highlighting these today. As with the last few years, most of the best stuff is only available to us at the beginning of the summer, so our selection only decreases as we sell out of wines. Stock up now for the best selection.
Weygandt-Metzler Rosés Arriving Tuesday, June 2nd:
Great Tavel is getting harder and harder to find and producers move towards lighter, more delicate styles. This is rich, textured and powerful while remaining resolutely dry. One for the table or for the cellar, it’s a perennial favorite.
Chateau de Manissy Tavel Cuvee des Lys Rose, Rhone 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 pre-arrival special Importer note “Grenache, Clairette & Syrah from clay, river rock and sandy soils. Biodynamic. Juicy raspberry, watermelon, crushed minerals and burnt sugar. Full body with a long finish… Entirely hand-harvested. Maceration of 12-24 hours to extract primary aromas. Fermentation with only indigenous yeasts at a very low temperatures over 2 days, then increased in temperature to 25°C for 7 days in order to increase the fruity taste. Aged in concrete tanks and stainless steel. Natural balanced acidity of about 3.6hg/L and PH of 3.5mg/L with less than 1gr/L residual sugar. This cuvée comes from a plot of 10 hectares that is enclosed by a forest.”
La Belle Etoile is Manissy’s lighter, more delicate bottling and a longtime shop favorite as well. Based around Cinsault’s light freshness, this is a delicately fruity wine with a really clean, refreshing profile.
Chateau de Manissy ‘La Belle Etoile’ Rose, Rhone 2019 750ML ($17.95) $14 pre-arrival special Importer note “Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache from clay & limestone soil. Crushed stone, pressed flowers and white cherries. Medium body with a long finish… Covering an area of 1.5ha, this site is bathed by the sun and swept by the mistral on a flat plain that rich in limestone with a clay subsoil. Entirely hand-harvested organic grapes that have a cold maceration before being pressed. Low temperature fermentation with indigenous yeasts, which allow the yeast to develop its fruit flavors. Aged in stainless steel tank. Given the name “beautiful star” by the Manissy Brotherhood’s missionary preist, the grapes originate from organically certified vineyards owned by wine-maker Florian André’s mother.”
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Is there anything Charvin doesn’t do well? This resolutely traditional Chateauneuf du Pape producer makes one of the most classic Southern French rosés every single year and the 2019 is no exception. Bright, dry and with just enough heft to be brilliant on the table.
Domaine Charvin Cotes du Rhone Rose, Rhone 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 pre-arrival special Importer note “Grenache & Cinsault from clay, galets roules & sandy soils. Organic. Crushed strawberry, Bing cherry with hints of grapefruit and crushed stone. Medium body with a long finish…A 1.5 ha parcel of about (depending on the crop variation each year) 50% Grenache, 50% Cinsault, sometimes with some Bourboulenc and Mourvèdre that averages just 35hL/ha annually. Organically farmed and entirely harvested by hand with sorting done in the vineyard. The Cinsault is first harvested and pressed and then about a day later the Grenache is harvested and pressed. Once assembled, they ferment for 14 days with only indigenous yeasts. After racking, this rosé spends the winter in tanks, conducting a natural sedimentation and is finally bottled in April.”
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…And Rose All Night
Rosenthal Rosés Arriving Friday, June 5th:
Cassis is one of the most picture perfect villages in all of France, and the sea breezes coming off the bay seem to make a profound impact on the wine. Bagnol makes one of our favorites, from a hillside that overlooks the town and the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea.
Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rose, Provence 2019 750ML ($34.95) $29 pre-arrival special Importer note “The Rosé is produced from several parcels that comprise slightly less than 7 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards are clay and limestone, situated on a gentle slope with a north – northwest exposure. The blend is Grenache (55%), Mourvedre (31%) and Cinsault (14%). This Rosé is vinified by “pressurage direct, the must is chilled to 12 degrees Celsius, the wine ferments at 18 degrees Celsius until it is completely dry; then, the wine is bottled during the first three months of the following year after a light filtration. Production tops out at about 40,000 bottles per annum; approximately 6000 bottles are allocated to the US market.”
This is a new wine from Pradeaux and it’s an old-school Bandol rosé to the core. This is pure Mourvèdre from some of the oldest vines of the estate. It’s released a year later than the other wines, with the complexity and nuance that the extra time brings.
Chateau Pradeaux ‘Vespree’ Rose (Bandol), Vin de France 2018 ($37.95) $33 pre-arrival special Importer note “Vesprée: “Vespree,” meaning evening in Provençal and Occitan, presents a full, swaggering nose of quince paste, white pepper, and coarse-ground Indian spices, and the big, richly textured palate possesses a structural tension that heavily underlines its potential for aging—though it is fresh, tense, and very delicious right in its youth. It is exceedingly difficult to find rosé of this caliber and character, even from Bandol—and, in a twist of irony, this wine which is so purely and deeply Bandol to its very core was denied appellation status on three separate occasions, and is thus labeled a “Vin de France.” But, in an appellation that has seen production shift from 70% red wine to 85% rosé over the years in response to market trends, this is perhaps more depressing than surprising. In any event, we are proud of the wine, and proud to work with such a courageous and iconoclastic family—and we know “Vespree” will delight those who appreciate Pradeaux’s ruggedly uncompromising sensibility.”
Mt. Ventoux is one of the defining sights of Provence and Valcombe’s rosé from its slopes is one of the defining wines. It’s called “Epicure” for a reason—this is one of the most perfect imaginable wines to drink with dinner.
Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Epicure Rose, Rhone 2019 750ML ($19.95) $16 pre-arrival special Importer note “Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Rosé L’Epicure: The Rosé is vinified via the direct press method from a blend of Grenache Noir (60%), Cinsault (20%), Carignan (10%) and a touch of Clairette (10%). Interestingly, the vines for the Rosé are of an average age of 40 years. This is a completely dry Rosé. Organic.”
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Gigondas makes big, powerful reds, but this rosé is anything but. Light, fresh and prettily mineral, Gour de Chaule has turned out another classic.
Domaine du Gour de Chaule Gigondas Amour de Rose, Rhone 2019 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special Importer note “Gigondas Rosé: The Rosé at Gour de Chaulé is made from the direct press method. The juice is quickly drawn off the skins (6 to 9 hours of contact), then fermented. A cold stabilization follows. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation and is bottled in the early spring of the year following harvest. The Rosé is composed of Cinsault (50%), Grenache, and Mourvedre. This is a brilliantly colored wine with hues of pink and rose accompanied by flavors and a bouquet dominated by the impression of freshly crushed strawberries. Again, a limited amount of this wine is produced annually, only enough for us to have 1200 bottles per year [100 cases] for the US market.”
You might not think of Bordeaux as a source of fantastic rosé, but you should. La Rame is best known for their excellent white and this wine hews to that tradition, with bright fresh flavors and a light body.
Chateau La Rame Rose, Bordeaux 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 pre-arrival special Importer note “Chateau La Rame Bordeaux Rosé: This wine is a relatively recent addition to the range of wines produced at La Rame. The grapes are sourced from a two hectare parcel of younger vines (20 years of age as of 2011) that are on the flanks of a hill that descends towards the Garonne River in the village of Sainte Croix du Mont. The wine is produced via the direct-press method and is fermented in temperature-controlled vats for six months before it is bottled and released in the spring following the harvest. The grape varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon (80%) and Merlot (20%). About 15,000 bottles are produced annually and we reserve 4200 for our use in the USA.”
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One of our favorites and perhaps the most under the radar of the Rosenthal rosés. Grolleau is a great grape for rosé, giving spicy, fresh flavors and bright cherry fruit. A real winner.
Chateau Soucherie Rose de Loire Cuvee L’Astree, Loire 2019 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 pre-arrival special Importer note “Rosé de Loire: This dry, mineral-driven Rosé is produced from Grolleau (70%) and Gamay (30%). The vines are planted to clay, sandstone and schist soils. The wine is a product of the direct press method of vinification and the elevage is in cuve with bottling occurring usually in April of the spring following harvest. We purchase approximately 7800 bottles for the US market.”
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Classical St. Emilion
From Chateau Grandchamp
We’re suckers for classically made Bordeaux at reasonable prices—a combination that seems to be harder and harder to find. Gonzague Maurice makes a set of wines under the Chateau Grandchamp and Clos du Pavillon labels that more than fit the bill. These wines are the essence of right-bank Bordeaux—Merlot and Cabernet Franc with limited makeup. Vinification is in stainless steel and most of the elevage is in concrete (25-33% of the wine sees aging in older barrels), so these wines have a purity and vitality that’s uncommon in Bordeaux these days. Chateau Grandchamp is made from an estate vineyard, farmed organically and worked/harvested by hand—a true rarity in the “satellite” regions of Bordeaux. The Clos du Pavillon wines we’re offering are negociant, but Maurice only works with growers who own unique terroirs and farm in accordance with his philosophies. These are delightful wines with plenty of old-school personality. We flew through our last stock, so we convinced our importer to secure us another round. They arrived last week and are already selling briskly. All three of these wines are exceptional values, with the two higher end bottlings offering a great balance between drink now comfort and the ability to age effortlessly for a decade. These are excellent wines and we’d urge you to stock up across the board. In Stock Now:Drinkable, delicious Bordeaux for under $20.Chateau de Grandchamp, Montagne-Saint-Emilion 2015 750ML ($24.95) $19.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now Le Guide Hachette Des Vins 2/3 stars (Vin Remarquable) “A mountain that exalts the qualities of the 2015 vintage and participated in the final of the favorites. From a blend of hand-harvested Merlot (90%) and Cabernet Franc, Château Grandchamp’s team has extracted a wine that combines power and elegance. The color of the dress is purple with violet, the nose is centered on dark fruits with spicy aromas, the palate is frisky, smooth, fruity, with fine, firm tannins and a long finish. [translated]” Importer notes “Château de Grandchamp is the only domaine on the hillside overlooking the ancient commune of Parsac, located in the Montagne-Saint-Emilion appellation on the right bank of the Dordogne. Vigneron Gonzague Maurice manually farms Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in densely planted vineyards rooted in clay-limestone soils with small traces of iron. The vineyard has been in organic conversion since 2010, however grass is sown regularly between vine rows and ploughing is done in alternating rows. Gonzague’s sole objective in the vineyard is to obtain perfectly ripe and clean fruit. Triage is done in both the vineyard and the cellar to ensure the highest quality grapes. In the cellar, grapes are vinified in small, temperature controlled tanks and then aged in a combination of tank and one to two year old barrels. Above all, he seeks to preserve the fruit throughout the fermentation and ageing processes. The resulting wine is aromatically vibrant and beautiful balanced with soft tannins.”
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Le Pavillon Dragon St George, St George – Saint-Emilion 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
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Le Pavillion “La Grange des Bardes” Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($37.95) $29 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
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Highlights of Tuscany
A Slew of High Scoring Tuscan Bottles
We’ve got a huge selection of Tuscan wine—150+ bottlings (in stock and pre-arrival) available right now in our webstore. We know that sort of selection can be daunting, so we’ve got some highlights listed below for easy shopping.
In Stock Now:
An exemplary Super Tuscan, especially for the price, this is for Bordeaux or Brunello lovers. Rocca di Montegrossi Geremia Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special Antonio Galloni 96 points “The Geremia, Rocca di Montegrossi’s Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is outrageously beautiful in 2015. Racy and pliant, with soft curves, Geremia captures all of the radiant beauty of the vintage. Sweet red cherry, plum, mint, mocha and sweet spice are all fused together. At the moment, there is a touch of new oak that still needs to integrate, but a few more years in bottle should do the trick. Time in the glass brings out attractive floral notes and red-toned fruit character that lend freshness and lift to play off the wine’s more extroverted leanings. The 2015 is a gorgeous Geremia.”
What can we say about the ’15 Brunello vintage? The wines are great, especially from great wineries. La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($59.95) $45 special Case-12 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($719.95) $489 special (that’s only $40.75/bottle!) James Suckling 95 points “The sliced plums and peaches are plentiful here on the nose. Full-bodied and dense with round and rich tannins and a long, long finish. Shows structure and intensity. Serious Brunello. Better after 2022.” Wine Spectator 94 points “This is round and full of sweet, ripe cherry, strawberry, graphite and earth flavors. Firms up as the finish plays out, echoing an essence of fruit. Best from 2022 through 2039. —B.S.”
One of the best wines in Tuscany in 2015, this is a stunning wine for under $35. Back up the truck. Tenuta di Bibbiano ‘Montornello’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now Case-6 Tenuta di Bibbiano ‘Montornello’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 750ML ($239.95) $189 special (that’s only $31.50/bottle!) Case-12 Tenuta di Bibbiano ‘Montornello’ Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2015 750ML ($479.95) $349 special (that’s only $29.08/bottle!) Wine Spectator 95 points “Relaxed, balanced and supported by dense tannins, this touts aromas of leather, tobacco, wood paneling, iron, woodsy spices and smoky cherry fruit, with a finish that is long and expansive. Drink now through 2040. 3,300 cases made, 500 cases imported.
This is a wine that transcends its “Rosso” appellation status and reminds us of some killer Brunello. Azienda Agricola La Torre Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 special Grapelive 95 points “The 2016 is going to be legendary in Tuscany. We are seeing the top wines already getting unbelievably good press, but there are also some killer deals on lesser known wines, especially wines like this gorgeous deep fruited and elegant La Torre Rosso di Montalcino. [Such wines] are incredible and offer a wonderful value for much less than their Brunello version. Lighter on its feet than the Brunello(s) the Rosso [shows] style and grace, it shows a complex array of flavors and a sense of never-ending length with a beautiful rose petal perfume and exotic spices. This La Torre has, what it is cliche to say, Burgundy class in the glass with ripe tannins and a gorgeous garnet/ruby hue that seduces the senses with layers of black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and plum fruits to begin on its open and generous palate with gains structure with air as well as highlighting the background elements, mineral notes and light earthiness. Additionally there is classic anise, fine cigar tobacco wrapper, sandalwood and lingering dried flowers and cranberry/currant, making for a lovely Sangiovese wine that gets even better with food, bringing out more depth and fruit intensity. There is almost nothing to fault here and the detailing and mouth feel is exceptional in this remarkable Rosso di Montalcino. This is a wine that needs to be taken out of the “Baby Brunello” box; it is really next level stuff on its own. The La Torre winery was founded not all that long ago by Italian standards back in 1976 by Giuseppe Ananìa, who purchased the La Torre estate from the famous Ciacci family of Montalcino. Now Luigi Anania, Giuseppe’s son, is the present owner and producer of the wines of La Torre. The estate is located in the commune of La Sesta, approximately 8 kilometers south of Montalcino, which is in the highest altitude section of the Brunello appellation. La Torre make four main wines, all from organic vines: Brunello di Montalcino (with a Riserva in the best years as well), Rosso di Montalcino, with the Brunello and Rosso being exclusively Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello Clone) by law, as well as a Rosso di Toscano and a Rosso di Toscano “Ampelio” which have touches of Ciliegiolo and Alicante added to a mainline of Sangiovese. The wines are all made from all grapes that are de-stemmed prior to fermentations and only indigenous yeasts are used before an extended 20 maceration on the skins. Ferments are done in a combination of steel and oak with an 18 month elevage being in large oak casks of French origin, with only about 10% of the ultimate cuvée being aged in small French barrels. Made for more early drinking pleasure and a sublime vintage really show here and I absolute love this stuff. Judging it purely on its intent and delivery it is fantastic, drink this brilliantly crafted beauty over the next 3 to 5 years.”
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Great value Chianti, perfect for pizza and pasta. Villa Nozzole Chianti Classico 2015 750ML ($27.95) $16 special James Suckling 92 points “A deep and rich Chianti Classico with dark berry and dark chocolate character. Hints of spice, too. Full body, solid core of fruit and a flavorful finish. Drink now.”
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An iconic wine—as close to perfect as you can get. The large formats are especially rare. Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($199.95) $179 special Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2016 1.5L ($419.95) $369 special Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2016 3L ($999.95) $799 special Antonio Galloni 99 points “The 2016 Le Pergole Torte is magnificent, just as it was last year. Rich, dense and explosive, with stunning depth and texture, the 2016 possesses off the charts intensity while remaining light on its feet for such rich a powerful, layered wine. There is almost no perception of tannin. Black cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, spice and new leather all meld together in a pliant, striking Pergole Torte endowed with tremendous pedigree and nuance. Put simply, the 2016 is off the charts great. The only reason the 2016 does not earn a perfect score is that cramped quarters in the cellar oblige Montevertine to bottle Pergole Torte in several lots.”
We could list any number of ’15 Brunellos in this section, but La Gerla’s is another standout. La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($69.95) $55 special Wine Spectator 94 points “Black cherry and black currant fruit is accented by tobacco, earth and mineral flavors in this sleek yet dense red. Balsamic elements of juniper, thyme and olive add depth as this cruises to a long finish. The potential lies in the excellent length. Best from 2023 through 2042. —B.S.” Eric Guido – Vinous 94 points “La Gerla’s 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous, showing depths of earthy moist soil, minerals and hints of animal musk up front, giving way to crushed strawberry and cherry, getting spicy with lifting minerals yet retaining a rich character throughout. On the palate, silky textures are matched by cool-toned acids and refreshing moist mineral tones, as zesty cherry and cedar come forward. It’s so balanced and smooth, with high energy lasting into the long finish, showing saturating spice and salty minerals, yet remaining cool-toned and precise. The 2015 is a beautifully balanced wine that’s firmly rooted in the earth.”
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From vineyards in Brunello, this 100% Sangiovese is a value winner. La Fortuna Fortunello Rosso Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2017 750ML ($17.95) $14 special VinopolNote: A fantastic value, showing pretty varietal notes of red cherries and spice. Moderately rich, savory and expressive. Winery Note “A wine that first expresses itself through its colour; intense ruby red. Extraordinary via its intensity and absolute pleasure on the palate, vigor, length, freshness and fruity finish. A wine that will improve with age with its scents of raspberry and red berries.”
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Top Wines from Spain’s Lost Great Region
Valdeorras is the lost great region in Spain. Nestled in the eastern edge of Galicia, with its cool Atlantic climate, the region has been planted since at least the Roman occupation. The Sil (Xil) river is the dominant feature, just as it is in neighboring Ribeira Sacra, and that’s what Ladeiras do Xil is named for. Valdeorras is a hidden gem in the Spanish wine scene, with great old terraced terroirs and old plantings that have been abandoned for decades before their recent (~2002) rediscovery. The whites are based on Godello and the reds on a true mélange of grapes—these are wines that recall Burgundy in their elegance and perfume, but with a flavor profile all their own, and that’s what we love about them.
Ladeiras do Xil makes the defining wines of the appellation, focusing on restoring these historic vineyards on impossibly steep, often terraced, sites. Founded by two giants of Spanish wine, Pablo Eguzkiza and Telmo Rodríguez, the winery is now helmed by the young, driven Jorge Saa, who has been working to restore the vineyards to prestige and condition of their ancient roots. The work is very hard and the production levels tiny (less than 250 cases are made of each red we’re offering today) but the results speak for themselves—this is an estate producing wines that are unique and compelling.
“Ladeiras do Xil takes its name from the hillsides of the Sil River, which is the lifeblood of the region. The pioneering duo of Pablo Eguzkiza (who gained his winemaking chops at Château Pétrus) and his partner Telmo Rodríguez (of Remelluri fame, among many others) started working here in 2002. Recognizing the potential to make world-class wines in this incredibly important valley, they began a project that would take decades to come to fruition. The philosophy of their company has always been vineyard first, winery second. The most crucial piece of the puzzle is the vineyard, and we are now just beginning to see the unfolding of the grandeur of their vision. They have been quietly doing heroic work in the face of incredible obstacles, as the climate in Galicia is unforgiving.” – De Maison Selections
In Stock Now:
Ladeiras Do Xil “Branco De Santa Cruz”, Valdeorras 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 13 bottles in stock now Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Branco de Santa Cruz was produced with the grapes from the white vines in the different vineyards in Valdeorras, with mixed varieties like Godello, Treixadura, Doña Branca, Palomino… It fermented and matured in oak foudre and 600-liter oak barrels. 2016 was a fresh year, with quite a lot of mildew, so harvesting the grapes from the individual plants was quite a lot of work, and they produced less of this wine. It’s open and expressive, with white flowers and a touch of honeycomb. The palate revealed marked flavors, a little medicinal, with very good intensity, clean and pure. 4,644 bottles were filled in May 2017.” Importer note “The wines of Ladeiras do Xil are strictly produced by natural principles. Viticulture is EU organic, and indigenous yeasts begin a spontaneous fermentation once the grapes are hand-harvested. Minimal intervention in the winery is evident in the haunting elegance of the wines. Branco de Santa Cruz is fermented and matured in large oak foudres and 600-liter oak barrels. The wine is open and expressive, with white flowers and a touch of honeycomb. It exhibits exceptional intensity and purity. Production of this authentic white wine is very limited, with less than 5,000 bottles produced.”
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“unusual intensity, elegance and balance” Ladeiras Do Xil “As Caborcas”, Valdeorras 2016 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 12 bottles in stock now Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2.5 hectares of north- and west-facing terraces planted with old vines produced the 2016 As Caborcas, a wine of unusual intensity, elegance and balance in 2016. The cooler year seems to have worked wonders for the reds here, and the wine is expressive and open, floral and aromatic, developing nuances of moss and fern, with a textured palate where the tannins have the granite mark of stony austerity that is then coated by the glycerin and the fruit, making a wine that is both elegant and powerful, with a very Galician feeling to it. 2,619 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2017.” Importer note “As Caborcas is a unique vineyard, full of different varieties, of different ages, from different strains, growing at different altitudes and exposures. Among the native grapes planted are mencía, merenzao, sousón, godello, and brancellao. Indigenous yeasts cause spontaneous fermentation in small wooden barrels of various sizes, with light foudre aging for 12 months to preserve the “Atlantic” delicacy of this wine of inland Galicia. True to the origins, As Caborcas could be made nowhere else. As Caborcas is extremely limited, with less than 3,000 bottles produced in a good year.”
Ladeiras Do Xil “Falcoeira a Capilla”, Valdeorras 2016 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 11 bottles in stock now Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94 points “Falcoeira was the first of their Valdeorras vineyards to be harvested in 2016, starting on September 16th. The 2.75 hectares of this young south-facing vineyard produced 2,635 bottles of the 2016 Falcoeira A Capilla, always a richer wine compared with its siblings. It’s a historical vineyard that was abandoned, but its almost 100 ancient terraces were replanted with a field blend of Mencía, Merenzao, Sousón, Godello, Garnacha…and other grapes that would have been there in the past. Winemaking is simple, the grapes fermented in small wooden and stainless steel tanks, and the wine aged in French oak foudres. 2016 seems like a great vintage for the reds here, and Falcoeira kept the freshness and poise within its riper character. The palate is delineated and with a marked stony feeling to it. With time in the glass, the wine became finer and more elegant, and that extra touch of ripeness seemed to disappear. A great year for this wine.” Importer note “The soils here are coarsely-textured, decomposed granites. It is an intense and profound wine, like the place it comes from. Indigenous yeasts begin a spontaneous fermentation in small wooden barrels of various sizes, the wine is then aged in foudres for 12 months. Falcoeira keeps freshness and poise within its riper character; with a delineated palate and a wild, stony feeling echoing the granitic slopes. With time in the glass, Falcoeira unfolds and displays the power, finesse, and elegance, which makes it one of the most exciting wines in the world. Falcoeira is extremely limited, with less than 3,000 bottles produced in a good year.”
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Servin’s Stellar 2017 Chablis
Domaine Servin is one of the oldest and most prestigeous estates in Chablis, with 32 hectares of vines spread throughout the region and much of it in top vineyards. The Servin family has been in Chablis since 1654 and involved in the wine industry for much of that time. Today, Francois Servin runs the domaine with the assistance of his Australian brother-in-law, Mark Cameron.
François, while appreciating the great traditions that are very important to the Servin family, strives to modernize and improve the estate. He has resumed hand harvesting of grapes over most of the Premier Cru and all of the Grand Cru vineyards. Where necessary, he has replanted with improved Chardonnay vines. The wines are aged in a mix of stainless steel and wooden barrel, depending on the cuvee, and bottled without filtration—this is an estate that has made a wholesale commitment to quality and it shows in the wines.
In Stock Now:
Domaine Servin Blanchot, Chablis Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($74.95) $59 special, 24 bottles in stock now William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Blanchots is also a success, offering up aromas of preserved peach, lemon confit and fresh citrus zest. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, textural and saline, with excellent purity and length. It’s a gourmand but elegant Blanchots that retains plenty of site personality.” Neal Martin-Vinous 90-92 points “The 2016 Chablis Blanchots Grand Cru has a clean and precise, quite granitic bouquet, tightly wound but focused. The palate is well balanced with good depth, quite primal at the moment with a terse, saline finish. It just needs to loosen-up by the time of bottling.”
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Domaine Servin Butteaux, Chablis Premier Cru 2018 750ML ($44.95) $38 special, 19 bottles in stock now Antonio Galloni 91-93 points “The 2018 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is rich and ample in feel, with plenty of textural resonance that envelops a core of apricot, passion fruit, peach, lemon confit, vanillin and white flowers. Medium in body and supple, the 2018 offers quite a bit of immediacy. This is an especially generous, exotic style, and yet the 2018 was done entirely in steel.”
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Domaine Servin Mont de Milieu, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 14 bottles in stock now Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru is silky, airy and gracious in this vintage. Orchard fruit, white flowers and mint all develop in this very pretty Chablis. In this vintage, the Mont de Milieu feels just a bit soft, but in exchange that gives the wine a good bit of immediacy. Exotic floral notes add flair on the expressive, inviting finish.” Wine Spectator 93 points “This starts out light, gaining concentration as the lemon, apple and lanolin flavors pick up speed and converge on the vibrant finish. Shows fine balance, length and expression, with elements of flint and mineral. Best from 2020 through 2025. 40 cases imported.” Burghound 92 points “Outstanding. A ripe and softly exotic nose offers up excellent Chablis typicity with its aromas of tidal pool, shellfish and iodine. The rich, forward and caressing flavors display a preponderance of citrus elements on the mineral-steeped, clean and notably dry finish. This super-saline effort possesses much better overall depth and should reward up to a decade of cellaring.” William Kelley-Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu reveals attractive scents of fresh peach, honeycomb, iodine and smoke. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a gourmand, concentrated core of fruit, concluding with a saline finish. It’s one of the more impactful, immediate premiers crus in the Servin range this year, and it has put on considerable weight in the last 12 months.”
Domaine Servin Montee de Tonnerre, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($44.95) $38 special, 21 bottles in stock now Antonio Galloni 93+ points “The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is soft, pretty and easy to drink young. I would have liked to see a bit more persistence. Overall this is an especially open-knit, easy going wine Chablis with good energy and brightness. My feeling is that it will benefit great from another year or two in bottle. Bright saline notes infuse the finish with lovely tension and energy that balances the more forward quality of the fruit.” William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre confirms its strong showing from barrel, opening in the glass to reveal notes of green apple, pear, beeswax and orange rind. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with good depth and tension, lively acids and a fragrant finish.” Burghound 92 points “Outstanding. A beautifully layered nose combines notes of sea breeze and iodine with those of white flowers, pear and mineral reduction. The sleek, intense and wonderfully refined flavors flash plenty of minerality and dry extract, both of which are present on the strikingly long and palate coating finish. This is presently prettier than it is deep though there is more than sufficient underlying material for this to gradually develop better complexity.”
Domaine Servin Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 23 bottles in stock now William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “One of the most reserved and serious wines in the range, the 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses offers up notes of dried flowers, beeswax, lemon oil, mandarin and rock salt, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, saline and mineral, with a deep, tight-knit core and a long, youthfully grippy finish. It’s a wine that will appeal to purists.” Neal Martin-Vinous 92-94 points “The 2016 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is a step up from the Blanchot – a complex array of scents with green apple, oyster shell and a light sea spray influence coming through. The palate is well balanced with sappy green fruit on the entry, with a clean and precise finish that bodes well for the future. Excellent.”
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Domaine Servin Vaucoupin, Chablis Premier Cru 2018 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 14 bottles in stock now Decanter 94 points “François Servin bought this 0.36ha parcel as recently as 2012, but it has rapidly become one of the highlights of his range. Unwooded and showing the concentration of 51-year-old vines, even in a generous year like 2018, this tastes more like a Left than a Right Bank wine, with grapefruit and wet stone flavours and racy minerality.” Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2018 Chablis Vaucoupin 1er Cru is bright, precise and wonderfully lifted. Citrus peel, crushed rocks, white flowers, and mineral notes confer energy and nuance to this airy, gracious Chablis. Light on its feet yet super-expressive, the 2018 is all class. All the elements are impeccably balanced. The finish is terrific and savory.”
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