“Riesling, Right Now!” is new ongoing feature here at Vinopolis. Every few weeks, we’ll put a spotlight on a single Riesling producer we have in stock. There are many. Some are easily found because we have row upon row of offerings (lookin’ at you Markus Molitor), while others are much easier to miss in the mix.

Riesling is a category of wine that inspires obsession as much as it can induce fear and intimidation. There are at least a few of us here at the shop who identify as Riesling True Believers, in case you couldn’t already tell, I’m one of them. We’ll be delighted to share why we can’t discuss the wines made from this noble grape without eventually making mention of light sabers, Valerian steel swords, honey drenched flowers, and David Bowie…  

For now, I’ll try not to get ahead of myself. So, let’s just dive into some notes about an easy to overlook gem on shelves. 

Dr. Crusius 

Nahe, Germany

THE CRUSIUS FAMILY
HAS BEEN GROWING WINE
SINCE 1576
AND IS NOW IN THE 14TH GENERATION

Dr. Crusius Winery is a daughters + father estate.
In continuous operation since 1576, the domain is currently under the winemaking leadership of Rebecca Crusius, who took the reigns from her father Peter in 2019. In the1990s, Peter oversaw the expansion of the Crusius estate from 7.5 to 20 hectares. The winery entered the VDP (Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter – more on this below) in 1984.Judith, Rebecca’s sister, helps run the estate with a focus on marketing and export operations.  

The Crusius vineyards and winery are located in the Nahe region of Germany.
Geologically speaking, the Nahe is a region of extreme diversity, with over 170 distinct soils on record. This includes volcanic, sedimentary, and metamorphic rock types which all add the the complexity of unique microclimates along the Nahe river banks where the vineyards of the region are planted. As a region, the Nahe is responsible for some of the most exquisite, refined, and and cellar-worthy dry Rieslings in the world. 

 

One of the most intimidating features of German wine is the tremendous volume of information contained within a bottle’s label. Such a wealth of information, logical but not beginner friendly, is a like a built-in detective game for the willing. There are oh so many rabbit holes to jump down with wine, but for this installment of “Riesling, Right Now!” we’re looking at how these three wines from Dr. Crusius show three distinct tiers of the VDP system.

• Erste Lage: First Site. Akin to Premier Cru
• Grosse Lage: Great Site. Akin to Grand Cru
• Grosse Gewächs: Great Growth: within the VDP, this is a strictly regulated designation for exceptional quality dry wines made exclusively from a Grosse Lage vineyard.

We currently have three Dr. Crusius wines in stock. Each from the 2016 vintage, three tiers of VDP wine are represented, and the decade of aging has worked to amplify each wines particular distinctions. Ross and I pulled some corks to check in on these selections, and the extra cellar time certainly appears to have been a benefit for their sumptuous style. They’re textural, and still intensely mouthwatering with freshness. There’s weight, richness, and a golden note that makes these a real treat to drink right now. They are wines for the dinner table, as they are perhaps only just barely a little too profound for the needs of L’heure d’apero. I’m thinking about a tartine made with smoked trout, whole grain mustard, and shaved radishes, or grilled chicken with honey-Dijon glaze and lots of herbs, fresh from the garden. Halibut. Tempeh Manis. Sweetcorn fritters dusted with bee pollen. Grilled zucchini dressed with white balsamic. Potatoes! I could fill a page with potato dishes to eat with these wines. Go for it!

DR. CRUSIUS, TRAISER ROTENFELS RIESLING SPATLESE, ERSTE LAGE 2016

Regular Price: $44.95 Vinopolis Price: $29

Limited Inventory – order here!

90 POINTS STEPHAN REINHARDT-WINE ADVOCATE “The 2016 Nahe Riesling Traiser Rotenfels Spätlese has a clear, fine and elegant bouquet of ripe tropical fruits intermixed with lemon and stony flavors.

DR. CRUSIUS, BASTEI RIESLING SPATLESE, GROSSE LAGE 2016

Regular Price: $49.95 Vinopolis Price: $33

Very Limited Inventory – order here!

91 POINTS STEPHAN REINHARDT-WINE ADVOCATE “The 2016 Nahe Riesling Traiser Bastei Spätlese (AP 29 17) offers a clear, intense and complex nose that is fresh and stony/mineral rather than fruity, and benefits from aeration. Very elegant, precise and noble on the palate, with a lovely mineral piquancy and lingering salinity, this is a complex as well as delicate Spätlese with a stimulatingly clear and piquant finish. Delicious… 9% alcohol.”

DR. CRUSIUS, MUHLBERG, GROSSE GEWACHS 2016

Regular Price: $69.95 Vinopolis Price: $49

Very Limited Inventory – order here!