Traditional has different definitions in Beaujolais, and it really has to do with how far you’re willing to look back in time. If your definition of Beaujolais starts and stops with gaudy bottles of plonk, I implore you to seek help immediately. If you consider yourself an enlightened beaujo drinker who looks to the Gang of Four for inspiration and thinks that semi-carbonic techniques offer the freshest view of the new wines of the region, you might update your G4 rolodex with a contact list of the dozens of new producers who are taking Gamay to new levels. With parcel specific soil maps recently released and winemakers looking to highlight the characteristics of the terroir of their own vineyards, older techniques more similar to Burgundian winemaking have taken hold, resulting in wines that are still juicy and lovely, but with added depth and mineral crunchiness. This is how the vanguard of winemakers is shaping one of the most exciting areas in France, if not the world.
 
Anne-Sophie Dubois, a Champenois native with her training in Volnay, is making some of the most perfumed and elegant wines off of her 20-acre hilltop vineyard in Fleurie. While she makes a ‘young vine’ semi-carbonic wine (Les Cocottes – delicious in its own right), her two wines of note are the Alchemiste and Les Labourons. The wines come from 40 and 60+ year old parcels, respectively. Alchemiste is fully destemmed fruit, macerated for approximately 3 weeks with native yeasts, then aged for 13 months in both cement tanks and some larger, oak casks. Les Labourons, formerly known as Clepsydre, marks the transition to fully organic (mostly biodynamic) practices in her vineyard. This wine is comprised of the best fruit from the oldest parcel of vines on the estate. The vinification is the same, though the wine is aged completely in neutral barrels rather than partially in tank. Anne-Sophie says that the wine shows more concentration and depth due to the age of the vines and the truly beautiful fruit that is available. While both will age nicely, the Labourons should be the wine you lay down for 10+ years.
 
As unabashed Anne-Sophie fans, we have been looking forward to the 2019 vintage with serious anticipation. Her wines, even in difficult years, yield perfumed, vibrant wines with substance and backbone. 2019 was a difficult spring with frosts after budbreak, but led to a hot and dry summer with a late rain that refreshed the fruit approximately 2 weeks before harvest. This resulted in lowering alcohol and acidity, and presents a wine that is pleasantly ripe and delicious, yet not overpowering. It will be a vintage that is terrific on the table and holds well in the cellar. 
 
Newly Arrived from Anne-Sophie Dubois:

Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie l’Alchimiste, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special
Case-6 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie l’Alchimiste, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($219.95) $175 special (that’s only $29.17/bottle!)
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie l’Alchimiste, Beaujolais 2019 1.5L ($79.95) $69 special, only 5 magnums available!
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie l’Alchimiste, Beaujolais 2019 3L ($199.95) $179 special, only 2 jeroboams available!
Importer note “From southwest facing vineyards in Fleurie AOC. Soils are highly granitic. Dark berried fruits, tempered by mineral and black tea nuances. Seamless and very elegant.”

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The average price is $34

Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($39.95) $36 special
Case-6 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($219.95) $199 special (that’s only $33.17/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons, Beaujolais 2019 1.5L ($89.95) $79 special, only 5 magnums available!
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons, Beaujolais 2019 3L ($239.95) $199 special, only 2 jeroboams available!
Importer note “Formerly known as `Clepsydre`, now re-named and carrying the name of its Lieu Dit starting with the 2017 vintage. Whereas previously the wine was a selection of the oldest fruit, Anne-Sophie has decided to take the selection one step farther and make it a selection of the best fruit from the old vine parcel. Les Labourons is the name of the lieu dit in Fleurie. In 2017, after receiving her organic certification, she wanted to rename the wine and have a new label drawn to showcase the new chapter in her winemaking. Despite the label and name change, Anne Sophie’s approach to vinification is the same as vintages past. It is 100% destemmed and aged for around 13 months in 228L neutral oak barrels.”

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The next best price is $41.30 for the 750ml

 

Rosé

Cameron Winery Pinot Gris Ramato Rosé, Dundee Hills 2020 750ML ($39.95) $29.90 special
Winery note “Rame: Italian for copper, ramato: copper-colored. Ramato is a copper-colored Pinot grigio made in the tradition of north-eastern Italy. A very tricky wine to pull off. Very limited production.”

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Ayres Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2020 750ML ($19.95) $17 special
Staff pick – Suzanne: Borderline steely, this is a bright and refreshing local rose with a creamy mouthfeel and elegant profile. Notes of raspberries, fresh lemon zest, rhubarb, and a fun hint of caraway on the finish. Always a favorite among the staff, winemaker Brad McLeroy makes this from a single block within the estate vineyard specially reserved for rose production each year. Bravo!

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Domaine de Fenouillet Ventoux Rosé Rhone 2020 750ML ($19.95) $16.60 special
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Ventoux Rosé: This Rosé: is vinified partially by direct press and partially by “saignée”, the juice is naturally clarified after a cold “débourbage” of 24 hours, the wine ferments at temperature that never exceeds 16 degrees Celsius and then it is aged on the fine lees for four to six months before bottling. It is a blend of 50% Cinsault, 40% Grenache and 10% Syrah, all of which is planted to soils of clay, limestone and silex. Production is limited: we import approximately 6000 bottles per annum for the US market. Certified organic.”

Peyrassol ‘La Croix des Templiers’ Rosé IGP Mediterranee 2020 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
Case-12 Peyrassol ‘La Croix des Templiers’ Rosé IGP Mediterranee 2020 750ML ($199.95) $169 special (that’s only $14.08/bottle!)
Importer note “Beautiful pale pink in color, with distinct bluish hues. This expressive blend opens immediately with notes of small red fruits carried on a savory undertone of garrigue. There is a refreshing touch of greenness on the palate which gives this fresh, lively wine its truly thirst-quenching character. An accessible blend in the true style of Provençal rosé: delicate with flavors of white fruit and a hint of minerality. Varietal Composition: 50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. With a long history of producing Provençal wines, the Commanderie de Peyrassol has broadened its offering using fruit from its IGP classified vineyards around the Coudonnier area and completed with sourcings from local partnerships. The winery produces this rosé with the goal of creating a more accessible wine with a focus on quality and freshness.”

Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Epicure Rosé, Rhone 2020 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Rosé L’Epicure: The Rosé is vinified via the direct press method from a blend of Grenache Noir (60%), Cinsault (20%), Carignan (10%) and a touch of Clairette (10%). Interestingly, the vines for the Rosé are of an average age of 40 years. This is a completely dry Rosé. Organic.”

Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Rosé, Provence 2020 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Cassis Rosé: The Rosé is produced from several parcels that comprise slightly less than 7 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards are clay and limestone, situated on a gentle slope with a north – northwest exposure. The blend is Grenache (55%), Mourvedre (31%) and Cinsault (14%). This Rosé is vinified by “pressurage direct, the must is chilled to 12 degrees Celsius, the wine ferments at 18 degrees Celsius until it is completely dry; then, the wine is bottled during the first three months of the following year after a light filtration. Production tops out at about 40,000 bottles per annum; approximately 6000 bottles are allocated to the US market.”

Lucien Crochet Sancerre Pinot Rosé, Loire 2020 750ML (39.95) $33 special
Importer note “Sancerre Pinot Rosé: Made exclusively of Pinot Noir harvested from several parcels … a mix of Oxfordian “caillottes” and Kimmeridgian “marne”. This Rosé is made using the direct press method with the whole berries entering the pressoir. The musts ferment in temperature-controlled cuves (85%) as well as a small percentage in older barrels (15%). The fermentation occurs over three weeks. The wines is bottled in the spring of the following year.”

Clos Cibonne Cuvee Tradition Rosé, Cotes de Provence 2019 750ML ($39.95) $30.50 special
De Maison Selections note “Tentations offers an accessible entry-point into Provence wine. Tentations is made with exceptional ingredients, including fruit from young tibouren vines and some purchased fruit from farmers they have long-standing relationships with, in prime spots in La Londe. The Tentations wines do not undergo the extensive aging process of the Clos Cibonne line. Offering immediate and unpretentious enjoyment, they are incredible food wines and represent one of the best wine values in the Côtes de Provence region. Site: La Londe. Grapes: 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, and 15% Tibouren.”


Oregon 

Bergstrom ‘Cumberland Reserve’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2018 750ML ($44.95) $34.50 special
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 94+ points “Medium ruby-purple, the 2018 Pinot Noir Cumberland Reserve takes its time to unfold to notes of earth, tar and blue and black berries on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, firm and seamlessly fresh with intense dark fruits and a peppery finish. It’s youthfully coiled and will have more to show with another couple years in bottle.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Dynamic yet harmonious, with expressive raspberry and rose petal aromas, accented by flavors of orange peel and dusky spice. Builds richness toward polished tannins. Drink now through 2028. 4,210 cases made. — TF”

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The average price is $42

Lingua Franca ‘Avni’ Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2019 750ML ($ 39.95) $31.90 special 
No reviews for the 2019 vintage. 2018 reviews provided for reference.
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “#17 Top 100 in 2020. This is a stunning wine and a sensational value. Succulent, tangy and concentrated in ripe fruit, it explodes with flavors of lemon, peach, apricot and papaya lifted by a squeeze of lime. Fermented in a mix of concrete and neutral barrels, it was then aged in new puncheons and neutral barriques. -Paul Gregutt”
Wine & Spirits Magazine 94 points “Drawn mostly from vineyards in the Eola–Amity Hills, Avni seems to capture the nerve and tension of whites from that AVA. The 2018, fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in mostly used barrels and puncheons, reminded me of a golden slope, not unlike Lingua Franca’s sunny, south-facing home vineyard, which tumbles down toward the winery. Avni is warm and marvelously complex, with notes of chilled pineapple and toffee, of wheat and pear, one moment tense and elegant, another moment considerably richer. Drink some now but cellar a few bottles, too, to see where they will take you.”

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Belle Pente Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19.90 special
VinopolNote: To paraphrase winemaker/owner Brian O’Donnell, whereas the Estate Chardonnay is more Meursault in style, the Willamette Valley Chardonnay is a lighter, fresher style more akin to Macon.

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Et Fille Deux Vert Vineyard Viognier, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Stylish and pretty with bright acidity. A refreshing Viognier from vines planted in the mid-1990s.

Et Fille Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($31.95) $27 special
Winery note “We love blending Pinot Noir from multiple vineyards. This process epitomizes the confluence of art and science. We use our scientific backgrounds to begin with an analytic hypothesis-driven approach, but our love of art takes over once we start engaging our senses and letting the combinations take us in surprising directions. Our goal with this blend is to allow the complexity of the Willamette Valley to reveal itself in an honest representation of the vintage. Appellation: 100% Willamette Valley (Yamhill-Carlton and Eola-Amity Hills). Harvest: September 29-October 2, 2017. Production: 893 cases. Certifications: L.I.V.E. Certified Sustainable.”

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Ayres Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2020 750ML (24.95) $19.90 special 
Winery note “Estate grown Pinot Noir grapes situated on Ribbon Ridge’s southeastern slope join fruit from Yamhill-Carlton to create this Willamette Valley blend. The beauty is in the balance.”


California 

“Those who doubt the existence of terroir in the United States or who scoff at the whole notion of terroir owe it to themselves to try several of the Old Hill zins… They are particular wines that very much speak of Old Hill.” –Eric Asimov, New York Times
Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Ancient Field Blend, Sonoma Valley 2018 750ML ($49.95) $37.70 special
Distributor note “60% Zinfandel,15% Grenache, 10% Alicante Bouschet, 5% Petite Sirah and 10% “other” (20+ other varieties, in fact) from a twelve-acre block of vines that were planted in 1885. The vineyard is a mosaic of over two dozen grape varieties; the grapes are fermented together. Fermented with native yeast and aged 22 months in French oak, 40% of which is new. Bottled unfiltered.”
Winery note “Our “Ancient Field Blend” comes from the original vines that were planted on Old Hill Ranch in the 1880’s.  Approximately 65% Zinfandel with the remaining varieties co harvested and fermented together.  Includes Grenache, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah, Grand Noir, Syrah, Carignan, and Mourvedre to name a few. 12 Acres, 30 grape varieties, 1 wine.”
Dry farmed.

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Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Vineyard Otto’s Grenache, Sonoma Valley 2019 750ML ($49.95) $36 special
Winery note “Otto’s Grenache was planted to honor our Step Father Otto Teller.  Opinionated and cantankerous, Otto believed grapevines were too coddled and needed great stress to produce the best wines.  This field blend was planted in 2010 on a modestly steep hillside that faces the hot setting sun. The soils are shallow, between two to three feet deep, and they are underlain with a thick impermeable volcanic tuff made from ejected rock and ash that is compacted and cemented into rock.  If these growing conditions aren’t challenging enough, the vines are also dry farmed.  Average yields are low primarily because the berries are so small and these grapes produce very intense and colorful wine.   “
Dry farmed.

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France – Champagne

Andre Clouet Un Jour de 1911… Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($99.95) $74.50 special 
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “[Review is for a prior disgorgement] The NV Grand Cru Cuvee 1911 emerges from the glass with the most haunting of perfumes. Sweet rose petal and jasmine are some of the nuances that emerge over time. Despite recent disgorgement, the purity of the fruit and the extraordinary elegance of the mousse are hard to miss. This is an exceptional, elegant version of the 1911 that should drink beautifully for years to come. The bottle I tasted needed quite a bit of air to open up, so readers should be patient with the wine at this stage.”

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The average price is $93

France – Burgundy

Domaine du Clos de Tart ‘Clos de Tart’ Grand Cru Monopole, Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($699.95) $599 special, only 1 bottle available!
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 97 points “The man with the bluest eyes in Burgundy, a.k.a. winemaker Sylvain Pitiot, told me that the 2010 Clos de Tart was picked almost a month later than the 2011 on 6 October with a yield hovering around 26 hectoliters per hectare and that the smallness of the berries meant that bunches were not compact. The bouquet is very seductive with introspective black fruit rather than red. The mineralite is tangible just below the surface, then a hint of oyster shell emerging with aeration. The palate has wonderful volume, coming over all fleshy and silky in the mouth thanks to the layered fresh strawberry and red cherry fruit. There is nigh perfectly judged acidity and a feminine finish that is totally entrancing. What a beautiful, feminine, refined Clos de Tart! Drink 2016-2030+.”
Antonio Galloni 94-96 points “The 2010 Clos de Tart is still a work in progress, but this early tasting is fascinating. Layers of deep, dark fruit nearly jump from the glass in this exotic, full-bodied Clos de Tart. Crushed flowers, violets and spices develop over time as the wine gains its easy upper register. The tannins are very firm, but there appears to be more than enough fruit to provide balance. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow over the coming years and decades. Today it is shaping up to be a gem.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Rich and dense, this red exhibits deep aromas of cherry, raspberry, flowers and spice, with the oak spice more prevalent on the palate. A beautifully balanced wine, giving an effortless impression overall, with a lingering aftertaste of ripe fruit, oak and mineral. Best from 2017 through 2040. 2,000 cases made. — BS”

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Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Aligote 2019 750ML ($34.95) $28 special 
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Bourgogne Aligoté: There is no better version of this modest white Burgundy than the one produced by Rollin. From very old vines (50 years plus) in a parcel of 1.7 hectares on the border of Pernand and the neighboring village of Echevronne, it carries the lively acidity that is part of the character of the grape but also the personality of the wines of Pernand. The age of the vines imparts density and body that shows this grape at its very best. We purchase fifty cases annually for the US market.”

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Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc 2019 750ML ($39.95) $33 special 
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc: From a small parcel of Chardonnay planted in the western reaches of Pernand on into Echevronne, the Rollins produce a white of lively acidity but with a certain heft that comes from the strictly limited production levels required to achieve maximum maturity from grapes planted on these slopes that see less late afternoon sun.”

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Domaine Rollin Pere et Fils Les Cloux Blanc, Pernand-Vergelesses 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special 
Rosenthal Wine Merchant note “Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc “Les Cloux”: “Les Cloux” is a well-situated lieu-dit on the north side of the hill of Corton, adjacent to the premier cru “Sous Fretille” (see below). It faces southeast on a high, steep part of the hillside, and a general lack of any direct breeze there encourages notable ripeness. The wine possesses a lower-pitched, deeper nose than the basic Pernand-Vergelesses above, but with an equivalent limestone intensity more solid in its character than powdered. The palate is richer and thicker as well, but suffused with the alert acidity typical of the Rollin style. Only 20% of the oak employed during the elevage is new.”

Domaine Matrot La Piece Sous Le Bois, Blagny Premier Cru 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, only 3 bottles available

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The next best price is $88.33

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France – Loire

Chateau de Breze – Arnaud Lambert Cremant de Loire Brut Rose NV 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special
Winery note “100% Cabernet Franc.”
Becky Wasserman note “Vine Age: Planted in 1981. Terroir: Lower part of the Clos du Midi, silty sand soil on 1 meter of soft Turonian limestone bedrock. Viticulture: Organic (certified). Vinification: Indigenous yeast fermentation, traditional Champagne method. Aged for 24 months.”

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Arnaud Lambert Saumur Rouge Clos Mazurique, Loire 2019 750ML ($24.95) $17.70 special
No reviews available for 2019 vintage. Recent review provided for reference.
Wine Spectator 92 points “[2018 vintage] This red flows like velvet, loaded with cranberry sauce, blackberry and juniper, while hints of charcoal and cedar add to the complexity. Very harmonious from start to finish, with a long aftertaste infused with mineral and thyme. Drink now through 2030. 1,666 cases made, 786 cases imported.  –AZ”
Importer note “Size: 3.7 ha (9.12 ac). Variety: Cabernet Franc. Vine Age: Planted in 1990. Terroir: Facing west, silty sand soil on Turonian limestone bedrock. Viticulture: Organic (certified, methods since 2009). Vinification: 100% de-stemmed, indigenous yeast fermentation in concrete tanks, no pump-overs. Aged for 5 months in concrete tank (15mg/L total SO2).”

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The average price is $21

Italy

Delightfully spicy and rich, this makes the perfect spritz. A new staff favorite.
Liquore delle Sirene Americano Rosso Aperitivo 750ML ($ 39.95) $34.50 special
Distributor note “Natural red aperitif made by somm Elisa Carta, inspired by the Venetian heritage. Handmade in small batches, blending wines from the Lake Garda area and single botanical macerations. The natural color is extracted from Hibiscus and Monarda flowers. Not artificial colors or flavorings.”

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, Tuscany 2017 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Editor’s Choice. Full bodied and savory, this lovely wine opens with aromas of wild cherry, camphor, sunbaked earth and baking spice. It’s smooth and delicious, doling out juicy black cherry, ripe plum, cinnamon and white pepper. Polished, enveloping tannins provide elegant support while a licorice note lingers on the close.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano packs a serious punch, yet retains plenty of Sangiovese character. Wild red cherry, tobacco, cedar, mint, licorice and spice all burst from the glass. The combination of richness and vibrancy makes for a compelling Vino Nobile that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring.”

Hot wine back in stock!
G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, Piedmont 2019 750ML ($17.95) $12.50 special
No reviews for the 2019. 2018 review provided for reference.
Grapelive 90 points “Vajra’s Langhe Rosso blend is primarily the classic varietals Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera, but also has an interesting addition of Albarossa, Freisa and even a touch of Pinot Noir all of which makes for a unique Piedmonte red that shows silky tannins, tangy vibrant fruits including brandied cherries, plum, cranberry, grilled citrus (Moro orange) and tart red currant along with wild herbs, delicate rustic notes, floral elements, mineral and savory spices….Giuseppe Vajra continues the traditions of his father Aldo, who was a big advocate for organic and holistic farming and promoted a sense of lightness in the wines always searching out vineyard sites thought to be too cold and too high up to ripen, but as history shows he was spot on and Vajra’s high elevation Barolo is one of the most prized wines in the world. The Vajra Rosso is mostly all stainless steel fermented with each lot and varietal done separately and blended before an early bottling to preserve fresh brightness, which this dark ruby/blue hued 2018 shows with lovely transparent clarity. This 2018 opens up nicely with air adding pipe tobacco, black tea, cola bean and dried rose petals, but the minty zesty tartness remains until the finish, in fact it is really nice with a bit of chill and with a picnic spread and or pasta dishes. The 2017 vintage was very warm and the wines are a bit bigger and fruit driven, with these 2018 shows a little more finesse and acidity, which shows through in this Langhe Rosso, it is wine to enjoy now and often, it has a hand crafted feel, but has no pretense, it is easy and delicious. For those looking for value with want this one, no question, but if you want to stay varietal pure, I highly recommend Vajra’s Dolcello, Barbera and Nebbiolo bottlings, there’s quality, value and grace throughout the lineup here.”

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The average price is $16

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso, Sicily 2018 750ML ($29.95) $22.75 special
Wine & Spirits 92 points “Best Buy. Produced from a mix of young and old vines on Etna’s north slope, this wine unfolds with flavors of wild strawberry and blood orange accented by notes of crunchy herbs. High-toned and transparent, it gains depth with air, developing a dark current of smoke and tar that offers a superb introduction to Etna Rosso.” 
Winery note “Made from very fine Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio from low yielding vineyards (35 Hl. Per hectar), both young and old. The grapes are macerated until the end of fermentation. The wine then continues its life in wood until bottled roughly one year after harvest. Even young it is a distinguished wine. Fresh, fragrant, beautifully slender and with a fine grip, it has a natural polish, a stage presence, as it were. And, in aging, as its weave gathers into rich complexity, it is a wine for gentlemen. It is an aristocratically liberal wine: enjoy it with whatever food you wish, as long as its properly cooked.”

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Dal Forno Romano Vigneto Monte Lodoletta, Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG, Veneto 2013 750ML ($419.95) $319 special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta is my favorite wine in the retrospective, along with the amazing 2011, 2009 and 1996 vintages. This wine was released at the beginning of this year, and because Dal Forno skipped over the 2014 vintage, this is the only Amarone we will see for a while (until the highly anticipated 2015 is released). The 2013 vintage is characterized by a slightly more streamlined mouthfeel (which isn’t saying much given the baseline enormity of these wines) with carefully etched aromas of black cherry, rum cake, dark chocolate and toasted espresso. The 2013 vintage was balanced overall without the sudden heat waves we saw in the summers of 2011 and 2012. The grapes finished a slow and steady ripening process over an extended growing season. The effect is graceful and focused. Put this bottle aside in your cellar for the decades to come.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 97 points “The 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta needs time – and a lot of it – to show all of its charms. But worry not, because you can already find pleasure in its dramatic display of rich plums and cherries dipped in mocha-infused chocolate with a dusting of cinnamon sugar and sweet tobacco. This is black as night yet truly purple in color, with depths of concentrated wild berry fruits contrasted by zesty acids that do an amazing job of lifting the expression. Grippy tannins saturate slowly, sneaking up on you and lasting throughout the impossibly long black hole of a finish, where notes of licorice, bitters and a coating of cocoa powder linger. Wow. The 2013 is built for the cellar and with tons of upside potential. If you dare to delve into one of these while young, I’d suggest opening your bottle a number of hours prior to enjoying. That said, this will be worth the wait.”

Dal Forno Romano Vigneto Monte Lodoletta Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto 2014 750ML ($119.95) $94.50 special
Wine & Spirits 95 points “The 2014 growing season in Valpolicella was plagued by hail in June and copious rain through mid-October, leaving the grape skins fragile and, in the estimation of Romano Dal Forno, not suitable for making Amarone. Instead, he used all of the fruit he and his team could salvage to make this wine, selecting only the best bunches and drying them for 45 days. After fermentation, the wine rested in new oak barrels for two years and another three in bottle, developing a rich complexity that reads more like an Amarone than a typical Valpolicella. It unfolds with flavors of warmed cherry and dried plum layered with notes of espresso, dark chocolate and a savory hint of amaro. There’s a tart tinge to the fruit that enhances the wine’s drinkability and brightens those rich oak-derived flavors. Even with all of the estate’s fruit going into this Valpolicella, Dal Forno made only 27,000 bottles, 30 percent less than normal.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 94 points “The 2014 is a unique rendition of Dal Forno’s Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta. It’s a remarkably pretty wine, displaying crushed ripe strawberries and plums with cinnamon, clove, vanilla bean and a cooling hint of mint. The textures are velvety, coating all that they touch in glycerol fruit concentration, yet somehow coming across as zesty and spry, contrasting weight with saturating notes of tart blackberry and savory spice. There’s a bit of a lull in the midpalate, yet it hardly takes away from the experience. At times, the Monte Lodoletta can seem almost salty, especially through its long, mouthwatering finish, where hints of cherry pits and herbs linger. This atypical yet truly enjoyable expression is the result of the extremely difficult 2014 vintage, when hail damaged and reduced the crop in the lower-elevation vineyards, followed by rain from August through September. As a result, Dal Forno decided not to produce their Amarone, and to instead focus all of their attention on the Valpolicella. The result is a wine that no Dal Forno fan should miss, but be aware that production was down 30% from an average year.”

Vie di Romans Flors di Uis Friuli Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2018 750ML ($31.95) $27 special
Case-12 Vie di Romans Flors di Uis Friuli Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2018 750ML ($349.95) $299 special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Malvasia Istriana 57%, Tocai 8% and Rhein Riesling 35%
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The Vie di Romans 2018 Cuvée Friuli Isonzo Flors di Uis is an assembly of Malvasia, Riesling and Friulano that builds beautiful intensity on both the nose and the palate. Attempting to dissect the bouquet is not easy because there are so many elements to take under consideration, from orchard fruit and ripe apple to custard cream. The protagonist of the blend is Malvasia, and the wine’s floral notes of honeysuckle and yellow rose are quite amplified as a result. Thanks to nine months of aging on the lees, the wine is broad, rich and generous to the end.”
James Suckling 93 points “Lovely, perfumed nose of lilies, lime blossom, passion fruit and lychee. More citrus-peel and lightly herbaceous notes on the palate. This is full-bodied and very intense, yet there’s some good acidity. Warm finish. Drink now.”

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Germany 

Weingut Hexamer Quarzit Riesling, Nahe 2019 750ML ($24.95) $18 special
James Suckling 92 points “What a seductive fruit-salad nose this animating and elegant, medium-dry Riesling has! Very clean and bright with a touch of tannin at the finish giving it structure. Drink or hold.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2019 Riesling Quarzit is bright, pure and flinty on the stony/dusty but also charmingly fruity and very delicate picture-book nose. Round and lush on the palate, this is a charming but tensioned and grippy Riesling from Meddersheim. Due to the residual sugar, which is somewhere between medium dry and medium sweet, this is not an ascetic but tensioned and thrilling Riesling that delivers the quartzite terroir in an accessible style. The sweetness is more palatable compared to the Porphyr but for good reasons: The minor grip and complex acidity would be too challenging for a wine at this precise point. I am sure it will be fabulous after some years of bottle aging. To me, this is another picture-book Riesling form Harald Hexamer. Bottled with 11% alcohol. Tasted from AP 15 20 in January 2021.”

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Spain

Marques de Murrieta Reserva (Finca Ygay), Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93-94 points “I also tasted an unbottled sample of the 2016 Rioja Reserva, which should be bottled in a couple of months, before the summer. What I tasted was the final blend, and it represents the year—2016 was a cooler year, and the wine also goes in that direction. 2016 saw a large crop, and the grapes for this cuvée were harvested at the end of September, going toward more finesse and subtleness, combined with the natural power. There was a change in the winery in 2016 that was finalized in 2018 with the new winery. The wine is textured and fine, and it’s more elegant than the 2015 I tasted next to it. The detail and texture on the palate is different, and the quality of the tannins is completely different. This should be released in early 2020. There will be almost 1.1 million bottles of this, which is remarkable, as they have managed to increase quality and quantity.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is very structured and powerful with a dense and rich palate of ripe fruit and hints of toasted oak. Full and layered. Structured. Released February 2020. Needs a few years of bottle age. Try after 2021.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Brilliant violet. Red and black currant, cherry, fresh flowers and baking spices on the highly perfumed nose, along with hints of vanilla and pipe tobacco. Juicy and energetic on the palate, offering bitter cherry, cassis, spicecake and cola flavors that turn sweeter through the midpalate. Successfully blends power and delicacy and finishes very long, smoky and smooth, with fine-grained tannins adding gentle grip.”
Wine & Spirits 93 points “This is a blend of tempranillo (87 percent), graciano, mazuelo and garnacha grown at the Finca Ygay, Murrieta’s estate in the hills above Logroño. Aged in American oak for 18 months, it developed a hint of mintiness over its silken black-currant and tobacco flavors (think menthol cigarette smoked with aristocratic nonchalance in Monaco). Bright and somber, tense and refined, this wine’s limestone edges carry the essence of Rioja in a healthy wine that seems to get its style directly from the ground.”


Portugal

Gota Wines Private Selection ‘Prunus’ Branco, Dao 2019 750ML ($19.95) $14 special

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The average price is $16

New Zealand 

Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2019 750ML (24.95) $21.90 special
Decanter 93 points “Herbaceous on the nose with bell pepper and pea shoots along with lime, guava and passion fruit. Some spice and exotic fruits on the palate and a smokey character that adds roundness. Elegant and balanced with a long finish.”
James Suckling 93 points “Very vivid, fresh passion fruit, lemon, yellow grapefruit and lime here with well cut, flinty elements in play. Some herb and lime-leaf notes, too. The palate has fresh, lively and assertively zesty lime and passion-fruit flavors with a succulent, fleshy feel and big impact. Drink now. Screw cap.”
Rebecca Gibb MW-Vinous 92 points “Lovely weight on the midpalate, providing a feeling of sumptuousness. This was whole-bunch-pressed and hand-harvested, and neutral yeast was used (20% wild), which has created an air of restraint. Yes, there are classic passion fruit and gooseberry flavors, but the volume is turned down, and a citrus backbone offers a fresh, composed conclusion.”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 92 points “Perhaps the most complex regular Savvy I can recall from Dog Point, the 2019 Sauvignon Blanc offers up aromas that range from subtle notions of garden peas to melon, nectarine and pink grapefruit. It’s medium-bodied and silky in texture, generous yet crisp, with a focused, slightly chalky and deliciously lingering finish.” 

Cantina del Pino produces wines that help define Barbaresco and are admired by reviewers – Antonio Galloni notes that “not only were the wines from Cantina del Pino among the standouts of my tastings they also happen to be among the best values in Barbaresco.” Run by Renato Vacca until his recent passing (cousin to Aldo Vacca who runs the Produttori), this is a small producer focuses solely on top-end quality from some of the most interesting vineyards in the village.

The three crus that the Cantina is famous for (Ovello, Albesani and Gallina) all show the brilliant fruit, dazzling complexity, and polish that the Cantina del Pino is famous for. Ovello is the leanest and most elegant of the bunch, with wiry tannins allowing it to age seemingly forever. Albesani has more power and richness, and is considered by many to be the most complete in the lineup. These are stunning Piemontese cru. Anyone who loves classically built, top-tier Nebbiolo ought to be jumping all over these.

“I have to say, tasting these 2016s from Cantina del Pino was bittersweet, as proprietor Renato Vacca lost his battle with cancer earlier this year. “I have to get the estate ready for the future,” a visibly ill Renato Vacca told me last year as we sat down to taste the 2015s. It was the last time I saw him. In the 2016s, readers will find gorgeous, vibrant Barbarescos that capture all of the pedigree of the year. If opened young, the wines need a lot of air to show at their best. Vacca is survived by his wife Franca and daughter Anna. I am hopeful Cantina del Pino will continue to thrive, as it is one of the crown jewels of Piedmont.” –Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

“Italian wine lost one of its most graceful and gentle figures. Renato Vacca of Cantina del Pino passed away in March 2020 at the young age of 51. He was battling cancer and is survived by his wife Franca Miretti and his daughter Anna. With a house and winery overlooking the Ovello cru with the church tower of Barbaresco beautifully framed by vines, the Vacca family started off as growers with the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative, managed today by Renato’s cousin Aldo Vacca. In 1997, Renato decided to leave Produttori del Barbaresco to bottle his own fruit and start his own label (Cantina del Pino is named after a giant pine tree planted symbolically at the top of Ovello). His wines are fragile and soulful, much like the man himself. Cantina del Pino releases its Barbaresco wines one year later than its peers. Our heartfelt condolences go to his family.” –Monica Larner, Wine Advocate


Arriving Next Week:

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2016 750ML ($47.95) $44 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2016 Barbaresco is a knock-out. And it is, for lack of a better word, the entry-level wine in this range. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon, red berry fruit and orange zest are some of the notes that lift from a Barbaresco that is all class. There is plenty of structure, but the purity of the fruit is so striking that the tannins are not especially noticeable. The 2016 is a stunning wine, that’s all there is to it.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The Cantina del Pino 2016 Barbaresco offers a classic portrait of the Nebbiolo grape. This winery always releases its Barbaresco wines one year later than its peers (who are now selling 2017). That extra year of aging serves to further polish and sharpen pretty aromas of wild berry, licorice, camphor ash and dried orange peel. Like the other wines from this terrific portfolio, this Barbaresco is defined by its energy and electric personality. You can drink it now, or put this wine in your cellar for longer aging. It performs beautifully either way. Some 12,000 bottles were made.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Plump and permeated by rose, cherry, raspberry, iron, tar and tobacco flavors, this red has power and intensity. Assertive tannins emerge on the finish, yet this has plenty in reserve. Shows a fine purity and harmony. Best from 2024 through 2042. —B.S.”

Also Available from Cantina del Pino, In Stock Now:

Cantina del Pino Albesani Barbaresco DOCG 2016 750ML ($69.95) $55 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2016 Barbaresco Albesani is the most reticent wine in this range. I have seen that before with this wine, only to see it blossom with a few years in bottle. Powerful and tightly wound, the Albesani is a Barbaresco to cellar for at least a few years. At this stage, it is all acid, tannin and brawn. Super-classic in the best sense of the term, the 2016 really only starts to blossom with about 24 hours of air! All of the classic Albesani breadth and inner sweetness is there, it just needs time to reveal itself.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “This is one of the most distinctive wines in this group of new releases from Cantina del Pino. The 2016 Barbaresco Albesani offers a slender and accessible personality, with light touches of menthol or medicinal herb that add focus and linearity to the bouquet. At its core, this pretty Nebbiolo from Neive shows delicate and graceful fruit tones of wild strawberry and red currant. Background aromas include ash, licorice and crushed stone. This is perhaps the most fragile of these three single-vineyard releases from Cantina del Pino, and with only 3,000 bottles made, it is also precious.”

Cantina del Pino Albesani Barbaresco DOCG 2015 750ML ($69.95) $55 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 95 points “One of the many highlights in this range, the Cantina del Pino’s 2015 Barbaresco Albesani is a wine of real gravitas and vertical power. A whole range of floral and savory notes develop in this statuesque, potent Barbaresco. Dried flowers, herbs, cedar, tobacco and mint add myriad shades of nuance. The Albesani is one of the most reticent wines in this lineup today, but it has an explosive energy that is just waiting to emerge. Time in the glass reveals a Barbaresco of exquisite beauty.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “Of the single-vineyard Barbarescos presented by Cantina del Pino, the 2015 Barbaresco Albesani shows the darkest color and richest appearance. The wine is svelte and tight with dark fruit nuances of wild blueberry, spice, tobacco and moist earth or black truffle. This is a beautiful, solid and tight wine that will open nicely with a few more years of cellar age. Only 3,000 bottles were made.”

Grant:
With how the wine world is currently obsessed with anything coming out of the Rhone, Bandol remains a stellar value with a parallel wine personality due to being neighboring regions. The primary differences between the two are largely climactic with Bandol having a mitigating sea breeze coming from the nearby Mediterranean Sea. This contributes to a lifted acidity and heighted aromatic character, making for hefty yet elegant reds, quenching whites and storied rose’s. Chateau Pradeaux’s roots in Bandol date back to 1752, when the Portalis family was tasked with a draft of the Napoleonic Code. This extended time amongst their vines and terroir is evident in their practices, which are entirely traditional with only minor elements borrowed from the current era. As Champions and advocates of the Mourvèdre grape (Largely considered the most important red in Bandol) they use it almost entirely in their Rouge. For context most producers blend in Grenache or Cinsault to soften the aggressive tannic structure. Pradeaux elects to omit new oak and allow the rouge to age in foudre for 4 years before bottling. Considering how most other producers are currently releasing their 2018’s, it’s mind boggling that 2015 is considered “new” or “current”. This fastidious approach to winemaking is evident from the first pour, with spectacular aromas of blackberry jam, herb d’provence, wood smoke and violets meandering out of the glass. A lifted yet full body coats every tastebud from the first sip and delivers a regiment of flavors ranging from crème de cassis, Java plum and anise with a finish of pu’erh tea, Applewood bacon and dusty loam. Pradeaux is a total knockout across the board that should be bought in multiples because it’s only going to improve for the next 8 years or more. In terms of food, this calls for an izakaya, bouillabaisse or paella for pairing.


In Stock Now:

Chateau Pradeaux Bandol, Provence 2015 750ML ($54.95) $47.50 special, 28 bottles in stock now
Importer note “The Bandol from Pradeaux is a creature whose soul emerges from Mourvedre. The classic cuvee is 95% Mourvedre and 5% Grenache, with the Grenache adding spice to the bouquet and leavening some of the drama provided by the intimidating structure of the Mourvedre. One of the hallmarks of Pradeaux is that the grapes are never destemmed. The result is a wine of ferocious tannin in its youth, another reason for the prolonged aging in these large wooden barrels, a time for the wine to repose and find its identity as it emerges from the cocoon of tannins to reveal an exceptionally complex crowd of aromas and flavors. Although situated mere steps from the Mediterranean, harvest at Pradeaux (always manual) frequently starts in earnest for the Mourvedre during the first weeks of October. The average age of the vines is approximately 35 years and harvest levels are quite low, often in the range of 25 hectoliters per hectare. Fermention occurs at temperatures between 28 and 30 degrees Celsius and the wines are racked into large oak ovals and foudres where they rest with occasional rackings for four years before being bottled. Neither new oak nor small barrels are ever used at Pradeaux and the red wines are never fined nor filtered.”

Need more wine from Provence in your life? We’ve got a plethora of producers, from Abbatucci to Galantin that you can browse on our web store.   

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In Stock Now (and Restocked!):

Domaines Ott Cotes de Provence ‘By.Ott’ Rose 2020 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Domaines Ott Cotes de Provence ‘By.Ott’ Rose 2020 750ML ($299.95) $236 special (that’s only $19.67/bottle!)
No reviews for the 2020 vintage. 2019 review provided for reference.
Jeb Dunnuck 90 points “[2019 vintage] The entry level rosé from this estate, the 2019 Cotes De Provence By. Ott Rose comes mostly from the estate vineyards in Château de Selle and Clos Miereille, with one-third from nearby estates. A blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, its light pink hue is followed by a lovely Provençal nose of tart strawberries, orange blossom, and flowers. With good acidity, a rounded, supple texture, and a kiss of salty minerality on the finish, it’s a winner to enjoy over the coming 3-6 months.”

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Peyrassol ‘La Croix des Templiers’ Rose IGP Mediterranee 2020 750ML ($19.95) $16 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Peyrassol ‘La Croix des Templiers’ Rose IGP Mediterranee 2020 750ML ($199.95) $169 special (that’s only $14.08/bottle!)
Importer note “Beautiful pale pink in color, with distinct bluish hues. This expressive blend opens immediately with notes of small red fruits carried on a savory undertone of garrigue. There is a refreshing touch of greenness on the palate which gives this fresh, lively wine its truly thirst-quenching character. An accessible blend in the true style of Provençal rosé: delicate with flavors of white fruit and a hint of minerality. Varietal Composition: 50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. With a long history of producing Provençal wines, the Commanderie de Peyrassol has broadened its offering using fruit from its IGP classified vineyards around the Coudonnier area and completed with sourcings from local partnerships. The winery produces this rosé with the goal of creating a more accessible wine with a focus on quality and freshness.”

Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Cuvee des Commandeurs’ Rose 2020 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Cuvee des Commandeurs’ Rose 2020 750ML ($279.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Importer note “Cuvée des Commandeurs bottles the essence of quality fruit, seeking to evoke pleasure and delight the senses. This accessible rosé was crafted to provide thirst-quenching freshness with vibrant fruitiness, without sacrificing elegance and complexity. Its rosy appearance is delicate in color and an expressive nose lends charm to this blend. A palate dominated by wild berries: gooseberry and raspberry that reveal themselves in a crisp, silky mouthfeel enhanced with a touch of minerality. 40% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 15% Syrah, 10% Rolle. Harvested at night to preserve the acidity and in double floor boxes to prevent any early maceration and coloration of the juice. The fruit is directly destemmed and pressed on arrival in the cellar. The alcoholic fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks.”

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Arriving Next Week:

Chateau du Seuil Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence ‘La Chapelle du Seuil’ Rose  2020 750ML ($17.95) $15.50 pre-arrival special
Skurnik Wines note “The Château du Seuil sits on the Puyricard plateau at an altitude between 350 and 450 meters, the highest site in Aix-en-Provence. Its towers date to the 13th and 16th century and it is classified on the list of French historic monuments. While the estate’s grounds cover nearly 340 hectares, only 62 hectares are planted to vines while another portion is dedicated to olive oil production. Owners Agnès et Robert Daussu are completely renovating the old Château and updating the cellar, as well as converting to organic farming. Sitting on an ancient fault line, the terroir is incredibly complex: clay, chalk, and rocks, with layers of iron-laden calcaire, and big galet. The vineyards benefit from the dry hot climate which is moderated by the Mistral wind. Enologist Pierre Guerin, who works also at Chateau Peyrassol, vinifies and ages the wine in tank. 25% Grenache, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Rolle, 10% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 5% Grenache Blanc. From the highest altitude vineyards in Aix-en-Provence. Same oenoglist as Peyrassol. 30+ year old vines. 350-500m altitude. Clay-limestone soil. Direct press rosé. Fermented and aged in tank. Saline, fresh and mouthwateringly pure.”

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Chateau du Seuil Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence ‘La Chapelle du Seuil’ Rose 2020 750ML ($21.95) $19 pre-arrival special
Skurnik Wines note “The Château du Seuil sits on the Puyricard plateau at an altitude between 350 and 450 meters, the highest site in Aix-en-Provence. Its towers date to the 13th and 16th century and it is classified on the list of French historic monuments. While the estate’s grounds cover nearly 340 hectares, only 62 hectares are planted to vines while another portion is dedicated to olive oil production. Owners Agnès et Robert Daussu are completely renovating the old Château and updating the cellar, as well as converting to organic farming. Sitting on an ancient fault line, the terroir is incredibly complex: clay, chalk, and rocks, with layers of iron-laden calcaire, and big galet. The vineyards benefit from the dry hot climate which is moderated by the Mistral wind. Enologist Pierre Guerin, who works also at Chateau Peyrassol, vinifies and ages the wine in tank. 30% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Grenache, 15% Cinsault. From the highest vineyards in Aix-en-Provence. 35+ year old vines. 350-500m altitude. Clay-limestone soil. Direct press rosé. Fermented and aged in tank.”

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