Noble and Overlooked: The Excellent Max Ferd. Richter
Clemens Busch – Maverick of the Mosel
Trending Wines
Piedmontese Deals a Long Time Coming
Rosé of the Day: Bandol-in on a Budget
Top to Bottom, Sierra Cantabria is Brilliant
Schaller: Hidden Gems of Chablis
July Sale Ends Tonight
Noble and Overlooked
The Excellent Max Ferd. Richter
When you talk about the wines and the region, the first thing that jumps out is the incredible real estate the winery holds. The Middle Mosel is where all the historic glory of German Riesling rests. Vineyards like Wehlener Sonnenhur, Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr and the Graach duo of Himmelreich and Domprost comprise some of the most heralded sites in the world for Riesling and perhaps no estate has better holdings than Max Ferd. Richter.
Based on their holdings and the quality of their wines, Richter deserves to be a name on par with JJ Prum, Fritz Haag, Willi Schaefer, etc. but poor distribution has prevented them from reaching the level of fame that they deserve (which, frankly, is great for pricing). These are gloriously complex wines, built for the cellar and affordable enough to buy in quantity.
Arriving ETA December
Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken Uralte Wurzelechte Reben, Mosel 2018 750ML ($59.95) $39 pre-arrival special
“In lieu of “Auslese trocken” or “Grosses Gewächs,” the Richters elected to name this dry Riesling “Age-Old Ungrafted Vines,” and if, as alleged, the vines in question really are 120 years old, one can hardly consider that title hyperbole.”-David Schildknecht, writing on the 2015 vintage
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Feinherb is sourced partly (two-thirds) from the old, central part of the vineyard (“Im Brück”) with 80- to 90-year-old vines and partly (one-third) from an upper plot with 20-year-old vines. Entirely vinified in traditional fuders, this is a bright, lush, warm and very fine Sonnenuhr with fine slate aromas intermixed with floral, flinty and perfectly ripe fruit aromas. The fruit aroma is almost endless. Lush, round and intense on the palate, the 2018 is perfectly ripe and concentrated but celebrates the finesse and mineral tension of the Sonnenuhr and finishes with lingering salinity and stimulating grip. Still reductive due to the addition of sulfur, this highly promising Sonnenuhr was bottled with 24 grams of well-packed residual sugar. Bottled in early March 2019 and tasted at the end of the month.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2018 Elisenberger Riesling Kabinett is dense, cool, very precise and flinty-mineral on the nose, which is still reductive but exciting. Coming from a coolish side valley that was picked at roughly 84° to 85° Oechsle at the end of September, this is a gorgeously lush and mouth-filling Riesling with the mineral piquancy of quartzite soils. There is no aggressive acidity here, there is nice tartaric acidity that makes this a seductive Kabinett you can’t resist. This is a fabulous, very long and enchanting Riesling. The wine has slightly more than 50 grams of residual sugar and comes in at 8.5% alcohol. It was scheduled to be bottled a couple of days after I tasted it from the cask at the end of March 2019.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “The 2018 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett is deep but bright and refined on the flinty nose that offers perfectly ripe Riesling and crunchy slate aromas with a warm iron touch. On the palate, this is a lush, refined, salty-piquant, even racy Riesling with generous fruit and a very long, salty-piquant and crystalline finish. This is a highly complex Riesling in the most delicate expression. It’s one of the wines you just have to buy—there won’t be any regrets, not today or in 30 years. Since this Brauneberger has slightly more sulfur compared to the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, which still hasn’t been filtered and was tasted from the lees, I will retaste the wines early next year, as I am convinced a Mosel Riesling needs two winters to unmask itself. Tasted in March 2019.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93-95 points “Mostly from very old vines (80 to 90 years old) and vinified partly (one-third) in stainless steel, the 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett offers a fine, flinty, super sensual, mind-blowing bouquet of perfectly ripe but coolish, precise and even quartzite-like aromas. On the palate, the wine is wide, pure, elegant and energetic—a powerhouse but in the most delicious and delicate way. The palate is complex, opening wide but always precise and very, very long, with great mineral grip and tension but also lush and sensual features. This is a great Mosel Riesling indeed. Tasted from the cask in March 2019.”
Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2018 750ML ($39.95) $29 pre-arrival special
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Sourced from old vines, the 2018 Elisenberger Riesling Spätlese was harvested in the third week of October as the very last “regular” wine (so 3.5 weeks after the Kabinett). It is based on completely healthy fruit and was vinified entirely in traditional fuders. Offering a deep and flinty bouquet, this is a lush, elegant, highly refined and stimulating Spätlese with a salty-piquant finish. Tasted from the cask in March 2019.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 95-96 points “From 30- to 40-year-old vines, the 2018 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is flinty, precise and reductive on the coolish nose, with discreet and fine (but lush!) pineapple aromas and very fine notes of crushed, smooth slate. On the palate, this is a clear, fresh, lush, highly finessed, piquant and salty Riesling with very tannins and lingering salinity and piquancy. This is a fabulous Spätlese with piquant finesse and mineral tension that seems to be familiar with that of the Scharzhofberger and the Euchariusberg. I can hardly imagine any better Spätlese from 2018. Tasted from the cask in March 2019.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “From the two oldest plots (80-90 years old and 120 years old), the fuder-fermented 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese offers great precision and aromas of tropical fruit intertwined with very fine slate on the nose. On the palate, the wine is mouth-filling and salty-piquant, with mango and slate flavors on the racy finish. This is dangerous stuff, very dangerous, yet it’s also tight and tensioned. This is, for the moment, the finest and most stimulating Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Dangerous. Really dangerous. Tasted in March 2019.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 96-97 points “The 2018 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese is very fine, concentrated and beautifully clear, with blossom honey and very fine berry aromas on the nose. (The 20% to 25% of botrytis is very clear and precise, almost imperceptible.) Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a generous but highly digestible Auslese with orange, raisin and (pink) grapefruit flavors. The finish is incredibly racy-piquant, salty and highly digestible. This is still a baby, but it is highly promising. Tasted from cask in March 2019.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 97+ points “The first three-starred Auslese since 2005 (prior to that, it was 1993, 1983 and 1975), the 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** was picked at about 145° Oechsle. This is incredibly clear, pure, fine and fresh on the lush, concentrated, herbal and grapefruit-scented nose. On the palate, this is a generously lush, refined and salty-piquant Auslese with a tight mineral structure and lingering salinity. This is highly refined and extremely stimulating. It already drinks all too well today, but Constantin recommends cellaring it for at least 10 years. Tasted in March 2019.”
Maverick of the Mosel
These are brilliant bottlings that are tautly mineral and yet expressive and aromatic. These are wines that are tributes to old, weathered slate, farmed well (the slate color is indicated by the color of the capsule). He bottles his top sites using their old cadaster names (Fahrlay, Falkenlay, Rothenpfad and Felsterrasse)—something else he was ahead of his time about. We’ve got a few of his fantastic bottlings arriving this winter and are excited to offer them at special pre-arrival pricing
Arriving ETA December:
Weingut Clemens Busch Marienburg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2018 750ML ($34.95) $24 pre-arrival special
$33 pre-arrival special
Spottswoode Family Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena 2015 750ML ($249.95) $225 special
Wine Advocate 100 points “Composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, the deep purple-black colored 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon has a beautiful nose of dried roses, lavender and Chinese five spice over a core of warm blackcurrants, kirsch and wild blueberries, plus wafts of fallen leaves and dusty earth. The medium to full-bodied palate features the most amazing intensity of perfumed red, black and blue fruit flavors supported by exquisitely fine-grained tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length and depth. Truly stunning.”
Jeb Dunnuck 99 points “A more exuberant, sexy wine than the 2014, yet still in the house style emphasizing elegance and purity, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate knocks it out of the park with its huge nose of crème de cassis, plums, Asian spices, scorched earth, tobacco leaf and graphite. This flows to a full-bodied, opulent, incredibly concentrated wine reminiscent of the 2013 on steroids. Full-bodied, with building tannin, integrated acidity, a stacked mid-palate, and a great finish, this is a tour de force in Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from one of the greats. It has three to four decades of life ahead of it.”
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon possesses off the charts ripeness as well as a level of exoticism that recalls the 2010. An infusion of dark red cherry, plum, white flowers, leather, tobacco and menthol accompany this super-expressive, sumptuous Cabernet Sauvignon. Violet, licorice and a host of spiced nuances develop with time in the glass. In 2015, Spottswoode’s Cabernet is decidedly luscious and flamboyant, but I would give it a few years to shed some baby fat. There is plenty to look forward to.”
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Il Mimo Nebbiolo Rosato Colline Novaresi, Piedmont 2018 750ML ($21.95) $17 special
Importer Note “Estate-grown Nebbiolo fruit, crushed and left to macerate overnight, then pressed off and fermented at low temperature. This is the first rosè from Nebbiolo that I remember from northern Piedmont, maybe 15 years ago, and it’s just delicious: raspberries, strawberries, fresh acidity. Nice bright flavorful complement to all kinds of foods (salmon, roast chicken, pork, salumi…). Don’t hold the price against it!”
Cristom ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2014 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Bright red. Suave, smoke-accented aromas of raspberry preserves, pungent flowers, incense and cola, along with a hint of allspice in the background. Sappy and expansive on the palate, offering intense red berry, allspice and floral pastille flavors that are sharpened by a jolt of zesty acidity. Shows superb clarity and spicy bite on a long, penetrating finish shaped by silky, even tannins. The interplay of power and finesse here is really something.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Expressive rose petal and black cherry aromas lead to plush and complex raspberry, spice box and dark tea flavors that gain momentum toward polished tannins. Drink now through 2023. 1,620 cases made.”
The next best price is $104.99
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2013 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special
Wine Spectator 96 points “This is full-bodied, displaying cherry, licorice, wild herb, iron and tobacco notes. The dense tannins take over and dominate the finish now, despite this remaining fresh and long. Full-bodied and minerally. Best from 2025 through 2040.”
Wine Enthusiast – Editor’s Choice 96 points “New leather, camphor, forest berry, dried rose and culinary spice are some of the aromas you’ll find on this exceptional red. The firmly structured, poised palate doles out juicy cranberry, crushed raspberry, white pepper and star anise framed in tightly-knit, refined tannins while bright acidity provides energy and balance. Drink 2020–2033.”
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “A dark, brooding wine, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano comes across as quite virile today, with huge tannins and equally imposing dark fruit. Smoke, leather, licorice and game add to an impression of raw, almost unrestrained, power. There is not a whole lot of finesse here at least not now. The Montestefano is a wine painted in broad brush strokes that emphasize power over elegance. Then again, that is Montestefano. Readers should be in no rush to open the 2013.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “The final wine in this portfolio of amazing single-vineyard expressions is the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano. This is the densest and darkest of them all, and I would therefore suggest that the longest drinking window be reserved for this expression. Montestefano is shaped as an amphitheater of vines that locks in the summer heat and sees less wind compared to Montefico. This is a solid and firm wine with deep, dark intensity and solid tannins that form an unyielding backbone. You should hold onto this bottle for at least 5 more years before popping the cork.”
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese #7 “Lang Pitcher”, Mosel 2017 750ML ($44.95) $33 pre-arrival special, re-arriving Friday
Wine Spectator 93 points “A light, zesty style, with jellied lemon, yellow apple and crème brûlée notes. Very refreshing and mouthwatering, featuring a lithe profile that makes this easy to drink now. Rose water and mineral aromas echo on the finish. Drink now through 2035.—A.Z”
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2017er Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese was harvested at 97° Oechsle. It displays a superbly aromatic, ripe and fruity nose of yellow peach, pineapple, honey, anise and smoke. The wine coats the rather intense palate with juicy yellow and honeyed fruits pepped up by a nice whiff of acidity. The finish is delicately smooth and long. This gorgeous “Auslese GK” in all but name only needs a decade to blossom. 2027-2047.”
Terry Theise note “All from the great cadaster Lang Pichter, this is really remarkable; huge fruit served by positive botrytis, classic “big-vintage” mien; a grand conversation among strawberry and kiwi and licorice and all with lovely surging fruit.”
They’re best known for their Barolo, but don’t sleep on the excellent Barbera as well. Those wines are delicious—well-made and extremely affordable, especially given the quality and pedigree of the wines produced. The Barolo deserves the special attention it gets. Super long lived and extremely complex (their wines from the 60’s and 70’s are stunning today), this version is one of the best 2014 Barolos we’ve tasted—which makes it especially noteworthy for the price..
In Stock Now:
Cordero di Montezemolo Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2017 750ML ($24.95) $16.60 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “This is rich and fruity, boasting black currant, blackberry, violet and earth flavors. Round and supple, with a light dusting of tannins on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2023. 4,500 cases made.”
James Suckling 90 points “A fruity and straightforward barbera with plum and berry aromas and flavors. Medium-to full-bodied, round and yummy. Drink now.”
The average listed price is $19
Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto, Barolo DOCG 2014 750ML ($49.95) $33 special
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2014 Barolo Monfalletto is a powerful, deep wine, especially considering that it was bottled not long before this tasting. A somber, dark Barolo, the 2014 is laced with the essence of black cherry, spice, leather and underbrush. Although not massively tannic, it is inward, closed and also unusually potent. I would give it at least a few years to be at its best. The 2014 is a decidedly serious Monfalletto that speaks in a baritone register.”
James Suckling 93 points “A little lift with woody and floral aromas here. The base line red cherries run from nose to palate seamlessly. There’s also an attractive, compressed density to the tannins here. Good polish. This is promising. Try from 2022.”
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “Intense aromas of raspberry compote, forest floor, eucalyptus and oak-driven spice drive the nose on this fragrant red. On the firm, youthfully austere palate, assertive, fine-grained tannins provide support for Marasca cherry, licorice, mint and a note of French oak. Drink 2021–2026.”
Decanter 92 points “From this long established La Morra estate comes this imposing wine, heralded by its intense and pungent sour cherry nose. It’s rich, broad and fleshy, highly concentrated and spicy, showing admirable force and power without being aggressive. Despite the grip on the long finish, there’s a soft core of fruit at the heart of the wine.”
The next best price is $39.98
The average listed price is $46
Rosé of the Day
Bandol-in on a Budget
In Stock Now:
Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($259.95) $219 special (that’s only $18.25/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “Continuing its consistent excellence, this domaine’s 2018 Bandol Rose looks to be another fine performance. Crushed stone, underripe peach and pineapple notes mark the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is creamy and rich, with just enough pepper and licorice-tinged spice on the finish to provide freshness and length.(JC)”
That care isn’t surprising for wines that are (deservedly) $500+, but to find that same attention to detail in a wine that’s $30 or $50 is a testament to the single-minded focus of the winemaking team. There’s a reason these wines have excellent scores from critics with very diverse palates (Luis Guiterrez’s traditionalism vs. James Suckling’s love of richness)—these are bottlings that appeal to anyone who’s serious about Spanish wines. We have a diverse parcel arriving this Fall and think you should stock up.
Arriving ETA September:
Sierra Cantabria ‘Magico’, Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($749.95) $619 pre-arrival special
Individual Hinged Wooden Box Package
James Suckling 100 points “A wine with incredible soul and purity, reflecting the land and history. Blackberries, black olives and hot stone and gun metal. Full and layered with incredibly polished and refined tannins. Old bark and mushrooms. It’s like holding an old and special book. Phenomenal. Drink or hold.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 96 points “Some years ago, they started a number of projects to produce some single-vineyard wines. For one old vineyard that was part of those experiments, in the early days, they selected the Tempranillo and produced it separately. Then in 2010, they started vinifying all the varieties together—red and white, except for the Garnacha. The first vintage to be sold is the 2016 Mágico, a wine that is sold en primeur. They also have vintages 2010 to 2015, which might be sold at a later time. This comes from a vineyard that was planted in the early years of the 20th century. This vineyard is in the village of San Vicente, in a part called El Bardallo, with very shallow soils at some 600 meters in altitude, the last zone to ripen the grapes. This has a profile that combines elegance and power, with the expressive nose of the 2016 vintage, quite elegant and nuanced. This has eight grape varieties, including red and white grapes, somewhat unusual, and the mix seems to provide very good complexity. It has the Eguren signature of new oak, and the Garnacha matured in a 500-liter oak barrel. 2,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2019. The wine is very good, but the price is another story. ($1200)”
Arriving ETA Fall:
Sierra Cantabria Garnacha, Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($27.95) $22.75 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Sierra Cantabria Garnacha, Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($319.95) $249 pre-arrival special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
James Suckling 95 points “This is a phenomenal wine with blood-orange and blueberry aromas. Hints of wet earth. Medium to full body. Chewy tannins, yet integrated and gorgeous. Fantastic value. From vines planted in 1927. Drink or hold.”
Case-12 Sierra Cantabria Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2009 750ML ($549.95) $419 pre-arrival special (that’s only $/bottle!)
James Suckling 95 points “A dense and very beautiful red with dark berries, hints of chocolate and some mahogany. Full body. Layered. Shows focus and balance. Lovely, linear and energetic nature. Drink or hold.”
Case-12 Sierra Cantabria Reserva Unica, Rioja DOCa 2015 750M ($379.59) $299 pre-arrival special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
James Suckling 94 points “This shows a wonderful center palate of dark berries and hints of licorice and lavender. Full yet lively and energetic with polished tannins that give the wine form and texture. Mostly old tempranillo with a a touch of graciano.”
Arriving ETA December:
Sierra Cantabria Finca El Bosque, Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 96 points “2016 was a cool and slow-ripening year, and the 2016 El Bosque reflects those qualities, combining power and elegance. It’s Tempranillo from only one vineyard, planted in 1973. It fermented in new French and central European oak barrels for 18 months. It’s a serious and structured wine that has a subtle nose, with integrated oak, combining power and elegance. It has very good freshness, and it has the floral and red fruit character of the 2016 vintage. This wine should have a long life in bottle. I love the 2016 vintage here. 5,000 bottles were filled in July 2018.”
James Suckling 95 points “The depth and focus to this is so unique with fantastic blackberries, blueberries and licorice. Full body. Powerful and intense. This needs four to five years to soften and open.”
Camille and Laurent Schaller are bright, young and talented and committed to making a name for themselves in the world of Chablis. The Schaller family has grown grapes in Chablis for generations, but it wasn’t until Camille went through enology school that they started bottling any on their own. Initially they only made one wine (an AOC Chablis) but as grape contracts to negociants have ended they have increased the number of bottlings produced under their own label.
These are wines to buy and winemakers to watch—we expect them to be considered one of the stars of Chablis in the next decade. Mostly fermented and aged in stainless, they use a small percentage of (used) oak on some of their top wines. The results are stunning—bright, mineral and with that Chablisienne quality.
In Stock Now:
Domaine Camille et Laurent Schaller Chablis, Burgundy 2017 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Domaine Camille et Laurent Schaller Vaucoupin, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($41.95) $33 special
