Tuesday Newsletter 9-22-2020

Paolo Scavino

Barolo’s Modern-ish Master

 

Scavino is one of the truly great estates in Barolo, a region with no shortage of famous names.  Despite a recent trend towards a more traditional approach, the wines still skew modernist.  Rich and powerful in their youth, their true greatness only reveals itself after time in the cellar -something that can’t be said about all of Scavino’s modernist peers.  Complex and nuanced upon release, the wines are built to age.  

With access to some of Barolo’s most prized vineyards, and a winemaking team that embraces the best of both modern and traditional techniques, the wines are arguably the smartest buys in Barolo today.  But don’t take our word for it, Bruce Sanderson of the Wine Spectator recently offered this praise for Scavino’s remarkable wines.

“Paolo Scavino is once again one of the top producers in Barolo. At one point, Scavino was considered one of the preeminent producers of modernist Barolo, favoring barriques, exceptionally short macerations and a style that emphasized winemaking over terroir.  These days, though, they’ve shed their overtly modernist ways, moving their style towards a more traditional approach.

While you aren’t going to confuse them with Mascarello or Burlotto, the current incarnation of Scavino seems to combine some of the best parts of modernism (i.e., approachable wines with rich fruit and sensual textures) with a more traditional sensibility in regards to terroir and oak flavors.  2016 was an epic year in Barolo and Scavino made some of the best wines we’ve tasted from the house.

The Paolo Scavino estate was founded in Castiglione Falletto in 1921. Enrico Scavino, the current proprietor, joined his father in 1951, and has since worked tirelessly, increasing the vineyard holdings to 74 acres. His daughters Enrica and Elisa (pictured with Enrico), who focus on sales and marketing and production, respectively, represent the 4th generation in the family business.

Enrico Scavino was one of the “Barolo Boys” of the 1980s and ’90s; the group brought international attention to Piedmont by making and promoting a more modern style of Barolo. Scavino’s first single-vineyard bottling, the Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, debuted with the 1978 vintage, and experimentation and refinement continue to this day. The wines have tipped a bit back toward the traditional side in recent years, using various barrel sizes and experimenting with vinification in wood, techniques that I find emphasize Nebbiolo’s pure fruit. “We don’t make great Nebbiolo because we use barriques or large casks,” explains Enrica. “We try to be neutral with the oak to let the grape express itself.”

The Barolo is a blend of seven parcels in Castiglione Falletto, Barolo and Seralunga d’Alba. Barolo Carobric is a contraction of its three vineyard sources: Cannubi, Rocche di Castiglione and Bric dël Fiasc. Prapò and Ravera are the newest MGAs to the range, debuting with the 2015 vintage. Don’t miss the Barolo Cannubi in the Hot Wines section of this issue.”—Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator

In stock now:

Paolo Scavino Bricco Ambrogio, Barolo DOCG 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “This is velvety and inviting, the open texture setting the stage for black cherry, plum and iron flavors. Spice and tobacco elements chime in as this cruises to a long, sumptuous finish. Shows fine harmony and should be approachable earlier than some peers. Best from 2022 through 2038.”


Paolo Scavino Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2016 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
James Suckling 91 points “Plenty of berry and spice with hints of tiles. Medium to full body, firm and velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. Drink now.”
Wine Spectator 90 points “A rich, lush style, displaying black cherry, blackberry and subtle chocolate flavors. Dense yet succulent, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2020. 916 cases made.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Paolo Scavino Bricco Ambrogio, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “An elegant style, boasting strawberry, cherry, currant and spice flavors, supported by vibrant acidity and refined tannins. Turns chewy on the finish, where eucalyptus and tar notes chime in. Best from 2022 through 2042.—B.S.”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2015 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is Scavino’s cru from this northeastern-most vineyard in the Barolo appellation, in the village of Roddi, and comprises seven hectares of mostly Nebbiolo but also some Dolcetto and Barbera. These vines with their southeastern exposure are not protected from the elements very well, allowing for more diurnal temperature shifts. Therefore, this site always produces much fresher fruit flavors. Indeed, you get noticeably crunchy, tonic fruit here along with a more detailed aromatic portrait. The wine is more precise compared to Monvigliero, for example, which offers more dense fruit, while Bricco Ambrogio is more delicate in the mouth. These soils are gray marlstone, with some yellow veins of clay in there and some sand, whereas Monvigliero soils are far whiter in nature. A fresh Barolo like this would pair well with any fatty sausage.”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 95+ points “From the Scavino family’s home-turf vineyard, the 2015 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc (with fruit from Castiglione Falletto) delivers structure, firmness and power. This is a classic interpretation of a historic cru, and the wine offers linear, crisp lines. Fruit from this site was fermented separately for the first time to make this wine in 1978. The family had long recognized the consistently superior quality of the fruit from this location, and they saw its special potential. Enrico Scavino told me about the rush of adrenaline and pride that washed over him when he first tasted this wine with his peers Gaja and Conterno during those Golden Years of the past and saw the enthusiasm their eyes. This is the go-to Barolo if you want to taste classic Scavino.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2015 Barolo Bric del Fiasc is dark and imposing on the palate, yet not quite as forbidding as it can be. A Barolo of size and heft, the 2015 has a lot to say, but it won’t be ready to drink anytime soon. Black cherry, smoke, leather, iron, licorice, menthol and graphite notes infuse the 2015 with layers of nuance to complement its brooding, sepia-toned personality nicely. The 2015 is a beguiling Barolo, but it needs cellaring.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “The sweetness from ripe plum and cherry fruit offsets the broad swath of tannins. Energetic and focused, with leather, soy, iron and tobacco accents supporting the fruit. Feels balanced, but needs time for all the elements to integrate. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2023 through 2045. —B.S.”


Paolo Scavino Carobric, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Although often slow out of the gate, the 2015 Barolo Carobric is absolutely gorgeous and expressive today. Powerful and dense in its first impression, the 2015 also has a good bit of underlying structure that gives energy and real sense of proportion. I would prefer to give the 2015 a few years in bottle to shed some of its baby fat. There is clearly quite a bit of potential here. Dried flowers, mint, rose petal, spice and dark red/blackish fruit all open up with time in the glass. The 2015 has a bright future. I won’t be surprised if it turns out even better than this note suggests”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2018 vintage will be the last edition made of this wine. The Scavino family lost its lease in Cannubi, and the estate wine portfolio is being redrawn as a result. The 2015 Barolo Carobric remains a blend of fruit from Rocche di Castiglione (60%), Cannubi (20%) and Bric dël Fiasc (20%). That blend has been carefully contemplated, and the absence of the Cannubi changes the formula too drastically. Cannubi adds richness and flavor to the blend, while Rocche di Castiglione with its sandy soils adds delicate mineral and light fruit nuances. Bric dël Fiasc offers both power and elegance and is the proverbial glue that keeps harmony between the two sides. This wine was first produced in 1996, and the end of an important chapter in the Scavino family legacy is upon us.”


Paolo Scavino Monvigliero, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “A supple, perfumed red, with a smoky Lapsang souchong tea note underly-ing the cherry and currant flavors. Delicate and firm, showing fine balance and a vibrant finish. This is all about elegance and finesse. Best from 2021 through 2042.—B.S”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 94 points “The Scavino family has had access to fruit from the Monvigliero cru for almost 20 years. They have farmed a small parcel (under one hectare) since 2000, and the grapes were previously added to their “classico” Barolo blend. In 2006, Monvigliero became its own single-vineyard expression because Enrico Scavino always had a big passion for this site. The 2015 Barolo Monvigliero is a bright and beautiful wine with a strong floral signature of violets and roses that accompanies this wine from start to finish. The wine is very characteristic of Monvigliero in terms of the softness and silky nature of the tannins as well.”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Paolo Scavino Ravera, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 94 points “Here is another rookie in the lineup for Paolo Scavino. The Ravera vineyard was purchased in 2015, at 2.7 hectares and about 360 meters in altitude. It is their highest vineyard and the last to be harvested every year. This east-facing parcel is never too hot, always showing cooler-climate conditions than the others, with fine tannins and a good dose of acidity. The 2015 Barolo Ravera is a very tight and and precise wine, with notes of exotic tea that follow blackberry, dried cherry and licorice. This is a great new addition to the Scavino portfolio at this time of important changes for the winery.”


Arriving late September:

Paolo Scavino Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva, Barolo DOCG 2013 750ML ($219.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2013 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva was released in January of 2019, and once again it looks to be a top prize. Licorice and flowers dominate the bouquet, and its beautiful red fruit is generous throughout. This wine has always been a beauty and consistently has had a high price tag to reflect that quality, going back to the first vintages of the 1990s. It has regularly sold for about $200 every year for the last decade. These vines are old, some of them very old (reaching the ripe age of 60 years old in 1990s, when many of them were replanted with carefully selected clones), producing an elegance and concentration that brings intensity and a high standard of aromas. This Barolo without a doubt shows its pedigree and a quality of noble perfumes that demonstrate characteristics of the greatest Nebbiolo vintages, all delivered with excellent concentration. The magic lingers on the palate, right up to the finish.”
James Suckling 95 points “Aromas of white truffles and dried red cherries here with an earthy nuance that makes for a complex and compelling nose. The palate has a deep and dense shape and delivers a wide array of rich cherry and plum flavors. Some handy spice here, too. Drink or hold.”

Love Barolo?  We have over 85 Barolos currently available.
Shop our entire selection, including famous names like Brovia, Bruno Giacosa, Vietti and more, on our web store!
 

Back Vintages from a Washington Legend

Leonetti and Figgins

 

Leonetti is always one of our most anticipated offers of the year.  The winery is one of the two or three most collectible in Washington, and they’ve been a standard bearer in both quality and scarcity for decades.  These are powerful, bold reds with a long track record of ageability and complexity.  From their iconic Reserve bottling on down, each of these wines is one of the pinnacles of their categories.

We jumped at the chance to offer you a special closeout on back vintage wines released by the winery. These are drinking beautifully now, but will age with grace for next decade or more.  So follow Jeb Dunnuck’s advise and snatch these up!

In stock now:

Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2016 750ML ($129.95) $99 special
Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon checks in as a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec, and 2% Merlot that spent 22 months in 75% new French oak. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a sensational, full-bodied, layered wine that’s overflowing with notions of crème de cassis, crushed rocks, smoked tobacco, and hints of camphor. Seamless, elegant, and layered, yet also powerful, it rates with the top wines of the vintage. Readers should snatch this beauty up.”
James Suckling 98 points “This regal wine really sets the tone for delivering poise, balance and elegance. Such distinctive cabernet redcurrants, cassis and red cherries, framed in cedary oak and tobacco. The palate is cast in noble tannins that deliver elegance and length. Deeply flavorful blackcurrants and dark cherries with chocolate that’s laced into the finish. A blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 13% petit verdot, 3% malbec and 2% merlot. Drink for the next decade and then some.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec and 2% Merlot, the 2016 Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon offers up a focus of fruit on the nose that is rarely seen in wine, along with a bold, plush, vibrant core of fruit that exudes power and a velvety roundness. Dark red, black and even hints of blue fruit are found in the mouth, with a rich and vibrant core that gives way to chewy tannins. With a bold spiciness and layers of oak, the bold, full-bodied wine lingers with intensity and a long, thought-provoking, complex finish that is focused and delivers pleasure as the wine puts a smile on my face. Only 2,900 cases were made, and they are worth every penny!”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Leonetti Cellar Merlot, Walla Walla Valley 2017 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “Polished and multilayered, with expressive red currant, smoky spice and green olive accents that take on richness toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2025. 1,866 cases made. — TF”
James Suckling 94 points “Notes of iodine and some smoky nuances, as well as sappy, foresty freshness to the red plums and darker berries. The palate has rich tannins and dark-plum flavors pervade the assertive finish. A blend of 94% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 2% cabernet sauvignon. Try from 2023.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93+ points “The only 2017 I was able to taste from this terrific estate, the 2017 Merlot reveals a saturated purple color as well as a terrific perfume of black cherries, cassis, toasty oak, and graphite. It’s medium to full-bodied, plump, and rounded, with ample tannins as well as purity of fruit. It needs 2-4 years of bottle age but is a beautiful, outstanding, incredibly promising Merlot. The blend is 94% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon and it spent 15 months in 60% new French oak.”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Leonetti Cellar Reserve, Walla Walla Valley 2016 750ML ($189.95) $149 special, 1 bottle in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 99 points “The 2016 Reserve is similar in color (it might be even inkier at the rim) and is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec, and 5% Cabernet Franc that spent 22 months in a mix of 75% new and 25% once-used French oak barrels. It offers sensational notes of crème de cassis, graphite, crushed rocks, smoke tobacco, and perfectly integrated oak. These all flow to a ripe, powerful, yet seamless and incredibly elegant wine that has nothing out of place, building tannins, awesome purity of fruit, and a massive finish. Reminding me of the 2010, yet made in a more elegant style, this magical wine is drinkable today but will benefit for 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for 3-4 decades. Hats off to Chris Figgins for another awe-inspiring wine.”
James Suckling 97 points “Beautifully stylish, this is a complex, youthful red with attractive, barrel-derived charcuterie, built around precisely ripe blackcurrants, red plums and dark cherries, as well as cedary-tobacco nuances and dark chocolate. So classic. The palate has a succulent, smooth and astutely groomed texture with tannins that are so nicely worked and deliver length with elegance. Black-cherry, blood-plum and dark-chocolate flavors abound. A blend of 73% cabernet sauvignon, 22% malbec and 5% cabernet franc. Try from 2024.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Walla Walla Reserve is the king of the range with expressive, bold fruit that demonstrates finesse and power, with crème de cassis, blackberry skin and dark cherry jus that connects with a spiced core and oaky essence on the nose. Full-bodied on the palate, the wine bursts with flavor teeming with tension and ripe tannins that will carry this for decades to come. Lush and round, it ends with a long, thought-provoking finish with impeccable balance. 911 cases produced.”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 96 points “Bright red-ruby. Very dark, vibrant scents and flavors of blackberry, cassis, boysenberry, licorice and violet. Incredibly silky and concentrated on the palate, with terrific mineral lift intensifying the wine’s fruit. The remarkably long, slowly building finish features noble tannins. It’s hard to scrape this off the palate, and yet this brilliant wine shows no excess weight. Incidentally, this wine is made from all four of the estate’s vineyards plus some old vines in Seven Hills. Should be very long-lived.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Graceful, polished and dynamic, with layered blackberry, toasty allspice and espresso flavors that take on richness toward refined tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2028. 911 cases made.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Figgins Estate Red, Walla Walla Valley 2014 750ML ($119.95) $89 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “Chris makes a single Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated red that’s brought up all in small new and used barrels. The 2014 Estate Red Wine is a blockbuster that comes from estate vineyards in Walla Walla and incorporates a splash of Merlot and Petit Verdot. Cassis, blackcurrant, roasted herbs, graphite and scorched earth all give way to a full-bodied, structured, impressively balanced red that has polished tannin (and lots of them), a core of sweet fruit and a great finish. Give it a few years of bottle age and drink over the following 10-15+ years. JD”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 93+ points “(the Figgins Estate is at a very high 1,500 to 1,700 feet above sea level, which Chris Figgins noted is great in hotter years but was a challenge in the very cool summer of 2011; these vines were just finishing their flowering on the day of my visit this year, June 29): Bright medium ruby. Less of a fruit bomb than the 2014 Leonetti Cellars Reserve Red Wine, also made by Figgins, offering aromas of cassis, redcurrant, licorice, fig and cocoa powder. Quite plush on entry, then powerful and dry in the middle, with the Petit Verdot component contributing focus and verticality (the Merlot makes a more horizontal wine, notes Figgins), not to mention a note of dried fig. Finishes with strong black fruits and real mountain-style tannins. This wine does not offer quite the breadth or thickness of the Leonetti Reserve Red but it’s more tightly wound and energetic, not to mention very long and alive.”
James Suckling 93 points “Impressive ripeness and freshness with violets, black olives and tarry notes across ripe plum and blackberry fruits. Sinewy tannins that deliver sleek power and carry ripe red- and black-fruit flavors long and even. Blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. Drink or hold.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Figgins Estate Red, Walla Walla Valley 2015 1.5L ($219.95) $199 special, 3 magnums in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot aged 21 months in 69% new French oak, the 2015 Red Wine from Figgins is a beauty that’s all from their estate vineyard located on the eastern, cooler side of the Walla Walla Valley. Deep, rich, full-bodied, and incredibly opulent, with loads of blackcurrants, smoked herbs, graphite, and chocolate aromas and flavors, it stays beautifully balanced and elegant on the palate, with sweet tannin. It’s a killer Washington State red that’s going to drink nicely for 10-15 years.”
James Suckling 93 points “Ripe dark cherries with attractive, brambly forest berries and bracken, too. The palate has a fresh, lithe and attractively grainy tannin core that delivers a plush and ripe dark-berry finish. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and merlot. Drink or hold.”
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “(aged in “mostly low-impact” Boutes barrels, according to Chris Figgins): Bright medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry and sexy oak spices convey excellent depth and musky sweetness. Plush, sweet and very ripe, and distinctly broad for this normally more linear bottling from a high-altitude site. With its densely packed black raspberry fruit and firm tannic spine, I’d give this at least a few more years in the cellar to lose some baby fat and absorb a bit of its alcoholic warmth. But even today there are no rough edges. (14.5% alcohol)”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Also in stock now:

Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2017 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “Lots of cassis, camphor, spice, and violets notes as well as background oak emerge from the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, which is all Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 22 months in new barrels. With full-bodied richness, awesome purity of fruit, and a powerful, mouthfilling style, it’s in the top two or three Bordeaux blends in the vintage. Give this remarkable 2017 3-5 years of bottle age, longer if you can, and it’s going to be very long-lived. There are 2,863 cases produced.”


Leonetti Cellar Merlot, Walla Walla Valley 2018 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 2 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Already bottled, the 2018 Merlot comes from a mix of vineyards in Walla Walla (Loess, Mill Creek, and Leonetti) and spent 15 months in new and once-used French oak. Juicy, vibrant, and pure, yet also with plenty of power, it is loaded with ripe currants and black cherry fruit as well as notes of chocolate, leafy herbs, and graphite. Rich, full-bodied, and concentrated, with ripe tannins, it’s a rocking Merlot that’s going to benefit from just a year or two of bottle age and drink brilliantly for 8-10 years.”


Leonetti Cellar Reserve, Walla Walla Valley 2017 750ML ($219.95) $179 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 97+ points “I had two off bottles of the 2017 Reserve, both showing huge volatile acidity, yet I had two great bottles as well, which are represented by this note. A blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Petit Verdot, and 10% Malbec, all aged 22 months in new barrels (as well as some neutral oval botti), it reveals a stunning bouquet of lead pencil shavings, toasty oak, incense, and dried tobacco, and it’s complex, nuanced, and layered aromatically. There’s not a hard edge to be found in this deep purple-hued effort, which offers the essence of blackberry liqueur fruits as well as full-bodied richness, beautiful concentration, and an opulent, expansive, yet precise mouthfeel. Made in a more elegant style than the 2015 and not far off the magical 2016, it’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and should have 3-4 decades of overall longevity.”


Leonetti Cellar Sangiovese, Walla Walla Valley 2017 750ML ($119.95) $95 special, 6 bottles in stock now


Love Washington wine?  We have over 50 reds from Washington currently available.
Shop our entire selection, including Charles Smith labels K Vintners, Substance, CasaSmith and more, on our web store!

 

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