Vinopolpick Mid-Week 4-21-21

Kruger-Rumpf

Stunning Terroir-Driven Riesling

Kruger-Rumpf sits closer to the Rhine than some of the other big names in the Nahe. And as a result, the wines have more intrinsic power to them. These are some seriously good Rieslings, at prices considerably lower than what you’d pay from other name producers.

The estate dates back to the 1700s and includes some of the greatest terroirs in the area. The vineyards are being transitioned to certified organic and managed with an eye toward biodiversity. While Kruger-Rumpf’s modern winery sees mostly spontaneous ferments, with terroir expression remaining the main goal of winemaking.

The top off-dry wine from the estate comes from the awkwardly named “Dautenpflänzer” from near the town of Munster. This means that the label reads “Münsterer Dautenpflänzer”—a stereotype of a German name if we ever saw one. In house, we often call it the “MD” if you aren’t feeling up to testing your pronunciation skills. The Dautenpflänzer is a prime Grand Cru site of the lower Nahe, a place that yields wines of power and resonance, and Kruger-Rumpf is the primary (and best) landholder.

Their top dry wine comes from the Abtei , Im Pitterberg, and Burgberg vineyards, which are more suited to the production of bright, dry bottlings than the Dautenpflänzer. Their “1937” is a single-block bottling of the Abtei vineyard’s oldest and steepest section. Despite the vine age and fantastic quality, it’s just half the price of similar unicorn wines (think Carl Loewen’s “1896”). Furthermore, the Burgberg is one of the top GG sites in the upper Nahe, tiny and impossibly steep, and the Kruger-Rumpf version shows off the classicism and elegance of the site.

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Kruger-Rumpf Abtei ‘1937’ Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2018 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Grapelive 94-96 points “The 2018 barrel sample of Kruger-Rumpf’s Abtei 1937 was stunningly gorgeous with brilliant details, ripe extract density, vivid mineral tones and vibrant acidity showing a purity and vitality of youth, but with the complexity and length of its old vine material. Georg Rumpf has crafted a Trocken beauty here with layers of delicacy and substance. This juice is on par with almost any GG, making it an incredible value already. Be sure to book your allocation of this ultra-limited bottling from Terry These and importer Skurnik Wines. You will not be disappointed, I know I will be hustling to get some myself. The regular Abtei offering is one of my new favorite Nahe Rieslings and while I love all the latest Kruger-Rumpf wines, especially from the Grosse Lage: Münsterer Dautenpflänzer, Münsterer im Pitterberg and Dorsheimer Burgberg, as well as exotic Rumpf’s Scheurebe plus their off dry Kabinett, Feinherb and wonderfully balanced Spätlese(s) I have become obsessed with the Bingerbrücker Abtei im Ruppertsberg vineyard and wines. This ’18 starts with subtle aromatic charm with orange blossom, rosewater, flinty stones, salt lick and quinces before thrilling the palate with energy and white peach, tangerine, lime intensity, verbena, mint tea and tart green apple. This light/medium dry Riesling is brisk and racy, at first but gains depth and builds with air in the glass adding some leesy texture, it is totally thrilling and will only get better with bottle age. Terry Theise adds that, Kuger-Rumpf’s vineyards are farmed sustainably; bees are kept nearby to facilitate pollination and aid in overall bio-diversity. Periodically sheep are allowed to roam the vines helping to control underbrush. All vineyards are hand harvested to ensure that only optimally ripe grapes are selected. Stefan believed that “you can’t improve wine in the cellar, only make it worse…” and Georg has continued his cellar work with this philosophy in mind, which to me shows in wines like this fantastic Abtei.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Kruger-Rumpf Abtei ‘1937’ Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2019 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 9 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 96 points “This super mineral and super elegant dry riesling has a stunning balance, but is only just beginning to open up. Golden aromas, but no hint of opulence or overripeness. Long, graceful finish. From vines planted in 1937. Drink or hold.”

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Kruger-Rumpf Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Großes Gewächs, Nahe 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Grapelive 94+ points “Coming from a tiny incredibly steep Grand Cru site, the Burgberg Vineyard, that is set on volcanic and quartz soils near Munster in the village of Dorsheim. The Kruger Rumpf Burgberg GG is one of the most exciting wines of vintage at this small winery… It is fantastically mineral-driven dry Riesling. This latest set of wines, especially the Rieslings, from Georg Rumpf and his family are some of the best yet from this estate. The GG’s and the Premier Cru Trockens are gorgeous wines. No one is going to want to miss these 2018 Nahe offerings, especially the Pitterberg GG, the Abtei Erste Lage 1937 old vine, one of my secret favorites and this beautifully detailed Burgberg GG. Rumpf has turned to mostly all organic practices, and the Burgberg parcel is farmed organic. [He] prefers to do natural fermentations, or Sponti, with his Cru wines with the GG’s getting less aging in large cask, Stuckfass, to allow less reduction and enhance generosity, while retraining freshness and vitality in the wines. [It] shows here in this barrel sample of Burgberg… These Kruger-Rumpf GG’s are some of the best values out there, they really deserve much more attention, as do the lesser bottlings and their wildly tasty Scheurebe, which is one of the best examples in Germany. The Kruger-Rumpf winery, which dates back to the 1790’s, is focused on purity and the expression of the distinctive terroirs in the family’s holdings, but only began making estate labeled wines in 1984 when Georg’s dad Stefan began crafting small production bottlings. Now, mostly retired Stefan has turned things over to his sons Georg and Philipp, who are continuing the traditions here with a renewed energy and technical skill. [Their work] impresses Terry Theise, their importer, who considers Kruger-Rumpf one of best under the radar estates in the region. [Theise] notes that Kruger-Rumpf is innovative and is always striving to reach new levels of quality. I visited Kruger-Rumpf in the fall of 2016 at harvest time and was thrilled with the stylish wines I found and was blown away with the individual vineyards they farm and the hard work they have been putting in the restore the Abtei site. The iron rich volcanic and quartz influenced 2018 Burgberg GG starts with white flowers, stone fruits and vibrant citrus before expansion on the medium full palate with layers of lime/tangerine, apricot, green apple, papaya, bitter pit white peach and white cherry fruits along with steely form, spearmint, verbena, mouthwatering saline, exotic spices and subtle leesy elements. This is going to be a legendary wine and is already showing Georg’s signature finesse and vinous personality. It has masses of potential and its delicacy is utterly delicious! There’s a lot to admire at Kruger-Rumpf these days and this crisp 2018 Burgberg is a stunning effort that gains with air in the glass and will more so with a few years in bottle.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Großes Gewächs, Nahe 2016 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “Quite a powerful ripe wine, but with a serious acidity that you’ll either go for or you won’t. If the first impression doesn’t decide that, then the whiplash finish will either knock you into ecstasy or knock you out of the game! Drink now and for many years beyond.”

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Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese, Nahe 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 21 bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 92 points “An effusively fruity nose anticipates the generously juicy peach and nectarine that feature on a glossy palate, with a hint of almond paste as well as pronounced sweetness tugging things in a confectionary direction. Happily, an influx of limey brightness and tangy fresh-fruitedness serve for welcome pushback as well as animation and refreshment on a long-lasting finish. As with others of the best Kruger-Rumpf 2018s, this manages to combine richness and high ripeness with brightness and transparency to stony inflections. That juxtaposition may have been underscored in the case of this Spätlese by its having been raised partly in cask and partly in tank.”

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Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Spätlese Goldkapsel, Nahe 2018 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 95 points “Picked at the end of October but with minimal botrytis, this certainly stands in magnificent contradiction to my vintage generalization that picking past the middle of that month was not advantageous. Unlike its counterpart form the Dautenpflänzer, this was raised in cask, and was allowed to ferment to a lower level of residual sugar. It comes off as a riper, richer sibling of the corresponding Im Pitterberg Riesling Kabinett, its gloss merging with creaminess, yet with fresh white peach and lime juiciness complementing ripe quince and serving for animation and refreshment. The finish is unexpectedly electrifying in its vibrancy and mouthwateringly saline, and gains stimulating counterpoint from peach kernel piquancy, peach fuzz prickle and a crystalline sense of stone-showering mineral impingement. (If there is a second, “regular” Im Pitterberg Spätlese from this vintage, I am not aware of it.)”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
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Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Pittersberg Riesling Großes Gewächs, Nahe 2018 750ML ($51.95) $46 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2018 Im Pitterberg Riesling GG is bright and floral on the fragrant and elegant, spicy-mineral nose. Full-bodied and intense on the palate, with rich and concentrated fruit that is balanced by a tight and mineral structure and lingering salinity, this is an elegant, very complex and sustainable dry Riesling with crunchy stone flavors and a gripping finish. This is a great Nahe wine from the 2018 vintage. Tasted in July 2019.”
David Schildknecht-Vinous 92 points “Scents of white peach anticipate the cool juiciness as well as the peach fuzz invigoration and peach kernel piquancy that emerge on a firm palate. A bright influx of fresh lime lends animation and enhances refreshment on a finish that also features mouthwatering veal stock savor and vivid wet stone.”

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Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Im Pittersberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe 2018 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 93 points “While marginally lower in alcohol – at 9% – than its Rheinberg counterpart, this was picked early at a significantly lower 82 Oechsle, so its sense of sweetness is nicely restrained. Luscious and invigoratingly tart-edged white peach, apple and lime are wreathed in honeysuckle, while a billowing sense of levity and inner-mouth perfume perfectly complements a subtly creamy texture that owes something to lees exposure in cask. (In fact, Georg Rumpf performed a bit of lees stirring and an extra racking, yet the wine retains an invigorating hint of CO2 spritz.) The sustained finish delivers a superb sense of vibrancy, clarity and focus, its intense fruitiness matched by a salinity that tugs at the salivary glands.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Im Pittersberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe 2019 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 9 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 93 points “An innovative, modern Kabinett that’s genuinely medium-dry, and although this has discreet white-fruit aromas, it’s got terrific structure and textural complexity. An excellent food wine, also for very spicy dishes. Drink or hold. Screw cap.”


Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett, Nahe 2018 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 89 points “From a southeast-facing vineyard, picked at 83/84° Oechsle around the 20th of September and vinified in stainless steel and large oak in equal parts, the 2018 Münster Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett is beautifully clear, fresh and stony/piquant on the precise, stimulating, slightly nutty and coffee-bean nose. Round, lush and sweet on the first palate, this is a fresh, salty-piquant and elegant Kabinett with stimulating grip on the finish. This is a beautifully lean, light and digestible Kabinett in the good old style. Tasted in July 2019.”

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Northern Rhône

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Elegant & Harmonious
Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps, Rhône 2016 750ML ($49.95) $35.10 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2016 Crozes Hermitage Au Fil Du Temps comes from the alluvial soils in the southern part of the appellation and was brought up in 50% French oak. Sporting a saturated purple color, it offers impressive notes of crème de cassis, black raspberries, crushed pepper, and ample floral and incense notes. With medium to full body, solid elegance and balance, and moderate tannins, you can drink it today or cellar bottles for 7-8 years.”

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“Checks all the boxes you’d ever desire from a northern Rhône Syrah”
Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30, Rhône 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Grapelive 94 points “The Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30 comes from granite soils and the from vineyard parcels that are at a steep 30% slope, hence the name and it’s maybe one of the best Syrah wines for the money in the world, and especially this 2017 vintage, which is absolutely engaging and delicious with magnificent purity and terroir accented character. The 2017s are showing amazing, they seem fuller, rounder and more harmonious in style than the last few vintages…there’s no denying the depth and complexity and sensual pleasure of the 2017s make them standout, and this wine does, it is a wine of beauty and checks all the boxes you’d ever desire from a northern Rhône Syrah. This dark purple, magenta and bright garnet edged Cornas by the talented vigneron, Vincent Paris, who’s proven to be in the same league as the iconic producers in this region, like the Chave’s, Robert’s and Allemand’s as well as his own uncle the famous Robert Michael, is layers with blackberry, blueberry, damson plum, candied cherry and earthy mulberry fruits along with smoky embers, loamy crushed stones, anise, distilled violets, mountain shrub, a touch of game and lingering creme de cassis. There is almost no noticeable oak on display, and none is needed as this 100% Syrah is absolutely complete here and speaks to your palate and soul in a strong, but understated voice that makes you listen in seduced rapture and as the wine opens fully in the glass it never waivers or dulls, it never stops exciting the senses. The Granit 30, according to the winery, comes from biodynamic vines on the lowest part of the slope of decomposed granite, in particular vines that are located in the lieu-dits of St. Pierre and Patou and Paris uses about 15 to 20% whole cluster on this Syrah with minimal stem inclusion, but enough to add pop to the wine, as they do here perfectly, adding texture, heightened floral aromatics and umami notes….If you’ve not had Vincent’s wines, you really should fix that, and these 2017s are a great way to start.”

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Rich & energetic
Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône2018 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Inky ruby. Mineral- and spice-accented aromas of ripe dark berries and candied violet show outstanding clarity and lift. At once rich and energetic in the mouth, offering juicy blackberry, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that slowly turn sweeter on the back half. Shows outstanding clarity on the long, penetrating finish, which features well-judged tannins and lingering floral and spice notes.”


“This estate…seems to have hit another level”
Domaine Garon Côte Rôtie La Sybarine, Rhône 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 13 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 93-95 points “The 2017 Côte Rôtie Sybarine is in the same ballpark, with complex notes of black raspberry and cassis fruits intermixed with lots of dried flowers, violets, spice, and licorice. It’s medium to full-bodied, has silky tannins, and is another awesome looking barrel sample from this estate, which seems to have hit another level with these new releases.”


A cellar pick
Cave Yves Cuilleron Cornas Le Village, Rhône2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “Inky ruby. Pungent black and blue fruit and pungent floral aromas, along with hints of cracked pepper, licorice and violet. Broad, seamless and appealingly sweet, offering juicy blueberry and violet pastille flavors and hints of spicecake and bitter chocolate. Clings with strong tenacity and spiciness on the finish, which is framed by smooth, building tannins.”

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Ripe & opulent
Domaine François Merlin Côte Rôtie, Rhône 2018 750ML ($79.95) $49 special, 33 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Domaine François Merlin Côte Rôtie, Rhône 2018 750ML ($479.95) $279 special (that’s only $46.50/bottle!)
Decanter 93 points “A very soft style, very ripe and juicy. Fairly tannic, but they’re ripe and yielding with flavours of black fruit coulis and touch of liquorice. It has fairly high alcohol with a saline finish – there’s freshness despite the very ripe fruit. This is a palate-coating, fairly opulent style but will be good when it’s ready – has length.”

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Southern Rhône

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“This Gigondas should prove to be a stunning age worthy wine”
Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas La Louisiane Vieilles Vignes, Rhône 2018 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas La Louisiane Vieilles Vignes, Rhône 2018 750ML ($239.95) $199 special (that’s only $33.17/bottle!)
Grapelive 96 points “The Domaine Saint-Damien, founded back 1821, is a small family winery in the southern Rhône based in the famed Gigondas AOC and is run by Joel and Amie Saurel with their son Romain who is the current winemaker. This is one of the Rhône’s great properties and treasures, especially for me. These wines are some of my personal favorites like this fantastic and nearly perfect 2018 old vine La Louisiane… This vintage has more vitality and fresh detail than the warmer and more lavish 2017s, which don’t get me wrong were incredible wines too, it is just that extra sense of purity and the mineral notes really stand out here and there is excellent fruit dimension and definition that is fully on display here. These old vines give outstanding concentration without overt jamminess or heat of alcohol. In fact this 2018 delivers a performance that would rival the best from either Burgundy or Bordeaux for elegance, presence and complexity, while still be a soulful and ultra pleasure filled wine. Influenced by its terroir in the des Dentelles de Montmirail, the Domaine Saint-Damien, named for the Christian martyr, has vines set in the rocky hillsides on marls, a mix of limestone and hardened clay soils, in terraced vineyards that get plenty of warm sunshine through the days and high elevation coolness at night that allows for perfect ripening of the grapes, which include mainly Grenache of course as well as Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah. This wine is beautifully proportioned and divinely textural revealing succulent layers of black raspberry, plum, pomegranate and a deep sense of creme de cassis along with violets, peppercorns, dried herbs, a hint of baked earth, cedar and anise accents that dance on the full bodied palate. This is riveting stuff that is surprisingly well integrated at this point, which makes it drink stylishly and with subtle rustic notes and this Gigondas should prove to be a stunning age worthy wine with its velvet covered muscles and underlying structure, depth and energy… I really am taken with this 2018 Saint-Damien and the mineral tone it has, as well as the opulent mouth feel and its lively pop of spice and lingering kirsch note, don’t pass up a chance to try this opaque purple/garnet hued and top notch Gigondas!”


“A perennial winner”
Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas, Rhône 2018 750ML ($44.95) $38 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas, Rhône 2018 750ML ($269.95) $219 special (that’s only $36.50/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Moving to the wines from bottle, the base Gigondas from this estate is a perennial winner and readers can safely buy bottles of this in just about every vintage. Giving up a Provençal bouquet of red and black currants, peppery herbs, leather, and loamy soil, the 2018 is medium to full-bodied, has a forward, sexy style, no hard edges, and a great finish. It’s terrific today yet still has enough tannins to evolve for 10-15 years if you’re so inclined.”
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “Blended on the spot from several different barrels, the 2018 Gigondas looks very promising. Asphalt, black cherries and tapenade feature on the nose, while the palate is almost painfully intense, with ample weight, great richness and a long, velvety finish.”


Perfectly cellared and ready to pop
Domaine Santa Duc Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues, Rhône 2012 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 1 bottle in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “Saturated ruby. Powerful, deeply pitched black and blue fruit aromas are complicated by suggestions of licorice, woodsmoke and incense. Broad, palate-coating blackberry and cherry compote flavors open up slowly with aeration. Distinctly rich but showing surprising vivacity, with velvety tannins coming in late to shape the wine’s sweet finishing fruit.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “This has a solid core of raspberry, bitter cherry and plum fruit, liberally laced with iron, violet and bay leaf notes. The long, sleek finish lets the iron edge play out, revealing a hint of blood orange in the background…”

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A cellar pick
Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Dame Voyageuse, Rhône 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Domaine de la Mordorée Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Dame Voyageuse, Rhône 2016 750ML ($399.95) $276 special (that’s only $46/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The new entry-level release from this estate is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Dame Voyageuse, a more Grenache-dominated blend of 90% Grenache, 4% each of Mourvèdre and Syrah, and the balance Counoise and Vaccarèse. Aged mostly in tank, with 15% in old barrels, it boasts a deep violet/purple color as well as a full-bodied, voluptuous style in its blueberry and cherry fruits, violets, damp earth, and spice-laced aromas and flavors. This cuvée is always more upfront and sexier compared to the more structured La Reine des Bois cuvée, and it’s already drinking brilliantly today. Nevertheless, it will keep for a good 10-15 years if you’re so inclined.”

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“A serious winner in the vintage”
Xavier Vignon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Anonyme X, Rhône 2015 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “The inky colored 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Anonyme is a serious winner in the vintage. A blend of 60% Grenache, 25% Mourvedre and the rest counoise, Vaccarese and Muscardin, it offers a huge nose of blackberry jam, garrigue, crushed violets, and incense. Ripe, unctuous and opulent, yet not over the top, it reminds me of the Trois Source cuvee from Vieille Julienne. This is a smoking good release that will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and shine of over a decade.”


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Albert Mann makes some of the best, least hyped wines out of Alsace. In Europe, you spot their wines in tons of Michelin-starred establishments, but here in the USA they tend to fly under the radar. That’s a shame, as they’re some of the most classically built, best-value wines to come out of Alsace. As such, we’re thrilled to feature two of their delicious Pinot Gris bottlings today. As is the case with all classically made Alsatian Pinot Gris, these are as distinct from cheap, tasteless Pinot Grigio as can be imagined. Concentrated, intense, and structured, these are stunning wines in their youth, and built to age gracefully.

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Albert Mann Pinot Gris Furstentum, Alsace Grand Cru 2017 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2017 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Furstentum is beautifully clear and fresh on the nose, provided with lots of fresh pineapple and tangerine notes. From 25-year-old vines and harvested on September 19, this rich, intense and powerful Pinot Gris is concentrated, fleshy but firmly structured almost like a red Pinot. Very expressive and with a salivating finish. Bottled with 13.5% alcohol and 17 grams of residual sugar. Tasted October 2018.”

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Albert Mann Pinot Gris Rosenberg, Alsace 2017 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “From silty clay and limestone soils, the 2017 Pinot Gris Rosenberg is perfectly clear, ripe and elegant on the nose, with ripe mirabelle but also stunning flinty-mineral notes. On the palate, this is a rich, tightly structured, very elegant and salty Pinot with grip and tension. Stunningly firm and fresh. Tasted at the domaine in October 2018.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

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Vinopolis is an independent wine shop in Portland that opened in 2004. Our goal has always been to offer the finest, broadest, and largest selection of wines at the best prices to our customers in Portland, in Oregon, across the West Coast, and throughout the United States.

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