Wednesday Newsletter 06-08-2022

Interested in a style of Riesling that combines the elegance and minerality of the Mosel and the heft of the Rheingau? In spite of being one of the smallest growing districts in the country, the new generation of producers has jockeyed international attention from stalwarts like the Mosel. The Nahe is one of the most compelling growing regions in the entire country for a multitude of factors. Easily the favorite district amongst the staff, these are some of the most “Bulletproof” wines you’ll ever find.   
Their terroir is incomparably diverse, with the highly compressed soils yielding examples of every geological family. These geological factors range from iron rich sandstone, to pure slate, and even chalk limestone. Most impressively these differences are often a kilometer or less apart, permitting a huge spectrum of what the average Nahe tastes and smells like in addition to giving winemakers leeway for any style of Riesling they desire.

Framed by the crossroads of the Hunsrück Hills, Nahe River and the Black Forest; The Nahe sees one of the driest growing seasons in Germany. This is on account of the surrounding topography creating a channel of cold air that mimics a wind tunnel, which in turn helps mitigate heat spikes and the development of disease. Much like the rest of Germany, the Nahe is considered a “cool” growing region, but has had little problem with ripening historically due to the southern aspect of most vineyards.

The wines from the Nahe are hard to describe under a monolithic regional style, however most Rieslings will present a mineral character ranging from river rock, to a crystalline influence on the aromas and fruit. There are also examples that can be seen that feature a smoky, spicy character depending on if they were grown with a high percentage of volcanic stone underneath. There are few sites that illustrate this as much as Paradiesgarten. The site is a limestone-heavy site (a rarity, much like Keller’s Kirschspiel GG), with shallow soils and privileged exposition—in short, everything you could ask for in a Riesling vineyard, especially to produce dry wines. The revitalization of the site, combined with meticulous cellar practices, has vaulted Korrell into the top tier of German producers. These are wines that any dry Riesling lover needs to have in their cellar and we’re proud to be the first in the US to offer these wines.

In Stock Now:

Weingut Korrell Johanneshof Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Weingut Korrell Johanneshof Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special, 8 magnums in stock now
Weingut Korrell Johanneshof Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 3L ($199.95) $179 special, 3 double magnums in stock now
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling 94 points “Very clean and fresh, but behind the effusive, fruit-salad character that makes this so seductive, there is a lot of structure and the finish keeps pumping out the fruit and chalky minerality. Drink or hold.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2019 750ML ($36.95) $31.90 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92-93 points “The 2019 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling is very fine and sublime as well as complex on the deep, multi-layered and coolish, terroir-driven and slightly flinty nose that is really spectacular for this price point. It comes from vines grown on the eastern slope of the 1er cru (an extension of the Langenmorgen Grand Cru) on deep, calcareous loam and red sandstone. This is an elegant, juicy, very fine and salty-piquant Riesling with a core of white stone fruits and notes of peach stone. The finish is long and intense and is carried by vivacious, structuring acidity. The aftertaste reveals flavors of white vineyard peach. This is a beautiful wine and by far the best Paradiesgarten I have tasted from this producer. Tasted as a sample in May 2020.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken Pfalz  2018 750ML ($37.95) $29 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2018 Riesling Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten “VDP. Erste Lage” opens with a clear and fragrant bouquet of white and yellow-fleshed fruits and floral and delicate fresh oak aromas. On the palate, this is a medium-bodied, tight, fresh and lush dry Riesling with edges and a grippy character. Green apples on the aftertaste. Tasted in Deidesheim, December 2019.”
Terry Theise note “The best vintage I recall of this surprising wine; curvaceous and leafy, the often-noted caraway seed nuance, along with ‘18s beaming plum-blossom aromas and the fennel and mirabelle-drenched palate could hardly be more fetching. The salty finish also doesn’t hurt!”
 

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Did you know that G.D. Vajra has a sister label? This garagiste operation is based in the tiny hamlet of Baudana. In 2009, Vajra was entrusted by Luigi and Fiorina Baudana to carry on the legacy of their cherished property after their retirement. When word spread prior to their retirement the Baudana’s reported more dinner requests in 3 months than the past 3 years. In spite of the competition from neighboring estates and beyond, G.D Vajra was tapped for the job after months of meeting in secret outside of the village. Located north of Serralunga, the village was historically known for bold and structured Nebbiolo. 

Unlike Serralunga, the hamlet of Baudana has largely flown under the radar since the 1930’s, yet was some of the most sought after tonnage in the 1960’s and 1970’s era of large scale merchant collectives. The estate’s holdings don’t exceed seven acres, making them one of the smallest wineries in all of Piedmont. As a result these are wines made in highly limited qualities and offer a wholly unique interpretation of the varietal. The technical skill of Vajra is on full display with the old vines, resulting in wines that live up to the heritage of the estate and a wholly different interpretation of Nebbiolo in terms of aromatic lift and fruit profile. Their two estate vineyards offer perfumed and fruit driven expressions of Nebbiolo against minerality with clear aging potential.   

Baudana wines in stock now: 

Luigi Baudana Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 93 Points “The 2017 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba may very well turn out to be one of the best wines of the year in its peer group. Dark and wonderfully expressive, yet also light on its feet for a Serralunga Barolo, the 2017 has so much going on. Black cherry, plum, spice, gravel, cured meats, lavender and sage all meld together in this dark yet translucent Barolo.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 Points “The 2017 Barolo Del Comune Di Serralunga d’Alba is resinous and assertive with aromas of tobacco, leather, dried cherry, and cedar. The palate is ripe with red plum, dried violet, and tar. The fruit dovetails to reveal its more powerful Serralunga structure, with building and firm tannins. Hold 2-4 years and drink 2023-2040.”
MONICA LARNER-WINE ADVOCATE 92 POINTS “The Luigi Baudana 2017 Barolo del Comune di Serralunga d’Alba reveals a robust and fruit-forward bouquet, with pressed blackberry and plum, followed by licorice, iron ore and some of the candied orange aromas that often come with fruit from Serralunga d’Alba. The wine is tight in terms of structure, and you feel its strength, but ultimately the sensations are polished and smooth. There are no rough edges to these well-managed tannins, and this is especially impressive in an unruly vintage such as 2017. About 8,000 bottles were made.”

Luigi Baudana Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($89.95) $75 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 96 points “This red boasts a beautiful balance between it’s cherry, strawberry, floral, eucalyptus and mineral aromas and flavors. Supple and elegant, despite the resonant tannins and lively acidity that boosts the lingering aftertaste, but with fine length. Don’t think about pulling the cork for 5ive years. Best from 2026-2048
Jeb Dunnuck  96 points “A sweet perfume lifts from the 2017 Barolo Cerretta, with fresh violets, kirsch, cinnamon, and sage. The palate is energetic with forward fruit through the mid-palate with persistence, with tea leaf and present but well-integrated tannins. The Cerretta displays the elegance that is possible within the 2017 vintage. Drink 2022-2040.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “A dark, somber wine, the 2017 Barolo Cerretta shows the more potent, brooding side of Serralunga. Black cherry, gravel, smoke, cured meats, cloves and menthol add to an impression of virile intensity and pure power. Readers will have to be patient here, but there is certainly a ton to look forward to. This is another impressive showing from Baudana and the Vajra family.”
James Suckling 96 points “This is really perfumed and enticing, offering intense floral and citrus character with some cherry. It’s full-bodied, yet tight and very reserved, with a long, racy finish. Fantastic depth of fruit here. Outstanding purity, too. Better in 2025.”
Kerin O’keefe-Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Forest floor, prune, leather and pipe tobacco aromas make their way to the forefront. Showing the heat of the vintage, it’s full-bodied and concentrated, offering cherry marinated in spirits, licorice and the warmth of evident alcohol. Tightly knit, enveloping tannins provide firm, velvety support. Drink 2025–2032.”
Decanter 94 points “Classically ‘Serralunga’ in character, the 2017 is still backward. Aromas suggest tobacco, tea leaf, hazelnut and mossy undergrowth. A steely, irony structure grips the tight, angular palate. Tannins are concentrated – as is the acidity – becoming grainier as they relent. A rush of salted black liquorice, white blossoms and granite washes across the finish. Give this time. From two plots – one on the northern slope of the Cerretta hill where Sant’Agata fossil marls meet Diano d’Alba sandstone, and the other on the east which sits on pure Lequio formation. Drinking Window 2025 – 2037.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points “A release of 3,000 bottles, the Luigi Baudana 2017 Barolo Cerretta is the most downplayed of these three wines and the least complicated from an aromatic point of view. A first wave of aromas is focused on wild rose and crushed flowers.  More robust tones of ripe cherry, rusty earth and dark spice follow in time. This edition of Cerretta is surprisingly delicate and fine, going against almost everything we know about robust fruit from Serralunga d’Alba and the powerful 2017 vintage. The wine is counterintuitive in a way only Nebbiolo can be.”

Luigi Baudana ‘Baudana’ Barolo DOCG  2017 750ML ($89.95) $75 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Kerin O’keefe-Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Balsamic aromas of camphor and cedar mingle with rose and leather on this full-boded, savory red. Structured and delicious, the juicy palate is still youthfully austere, delivering ripe Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry, baking spice and licorice framed in noble tannins before a black tea finish. Drink 2025–2037.”
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The 2017 Barolo Baudana is such a gorgeous wine. It, too conveys the power of Serralunga, but with a bit less heft than is typically the case. Sweet dark cherry, iron, cedar, rose petal, mint and white pepper give the 2017 its effusive, inviting personality. This is such a tremendous showing.”
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The 2017 Barolo Baudana has more savory and forward notes of dried cranberry, leather, and orange peel on the nose, with tangy ripe fruit on the palate. It has a rather approachable style, with the generosity of the fruit up front and well-managed tannins. Drink 2021-2040.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points ” From a historic vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, the Luigi Baudana 2017 Barolo Baudana takes an extra minute to open and ultimately reveals a consistent and compact package of aromas centered on dark fruit, rusty earth and crushed flowers. It’s quite nice the way the wine holds its cards closer to its proverbial chest. It lets its guard down one little piece at a time. There is some sweetness, too, and the wine feels weighty and powerful. I’d definitely give it a few more years of cellar aging so that the wine finds time to focus and flesh out. Some 3,500 bottles were released.”
     

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

Grand Port Offer:

Royally good deal worthy of a Windsor
 

Port is ubiquitous in the world of wine, having been a staple in every cellar since its inception in the 17th century. Not only delicious but also one of the most ageworthy and collectible wine styles in the world, port is a mainstay on auction blocks around the world from New York to Hong Kong. Unlike other ports which are multiple vintages blended together to make the various bottlings like ruby or tawny, Vintage ports are coming from a handful of the best barrels from a singular harvest. Even rarer than its red counterpart is vintage white port, made from one of the 4 permitted white varietals used in white port, offering a completely different flavor profile.  

Ports in stock now: 

Fonseca Vintage Port Portugal 1985 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 95 points “A hard, take-no-prisoners Port, extremely powerful and still closed when last tasted. Deep inky color, with concentrated blackberry and raisin aromas, full-bodied, with massive raisin flavors, a superb backbone and a very long finish.”

Dow’s Vintage Port Portugal 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 98 points “This packs a lot of fun, with a wallop of blackberry, fig, boysenberry and açai berry compote flavors working together, laced with a mouthwatering licorice snap note and driven by a fresh, well-detailed finish. A roasted apple wood accent is integrated as well, lending textural contrast through the vivacious finish. Best from 2030 through 2055.”
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Very floral, intense and ripe, this is a wine that is based around big black fruits as well as fine acidity. It is obviously destined for long aging with its powerful dry tannins and perfumed acidity. Drink this wine from 2028.”

Dow’s Vintage Port Portugal 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Dow’s Vintage Port Portugal 2017 375ML ($69.95) $59 special, 22 half-bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 98 points “The 2017 Dow’s Vintage Port showed a slight reduction and required more time to really open in the glass. Typical of Dow’s it has a more backward and introspective bouquet compared to its peers, scents of blackberry, clove, wild mint, cassis and vanilla, gradually gaining more intensity with aeration. The palate is simply glorious. It is built around a compelling tannic frame that seems finer than any Dow’s I have encountered apart from the ethereal 2011. There is so much energy coiled up in this Port, a sense of symmetry that is enthralling and yet you just know that it needs to be cellared for 15-20 years for it to reveal its full potential. For serious Port-lovers. One of the vintages most cerebral offerings. Total production is 5,250 cases.”
James Suckling 98 points “Pure grape aromas that remind me of fermenting must but then goes to stems and dried flowers. Full-bodied, medium sweet with fine-grained tannins that coat your palate. Powerful and muscular yet remains agile and beautiful. Grows on your palate. Wonderful ripe fruit in the middle palate. Try after 2030.”
Decanter 97 points “Based on fruit from the predominantly south-facing Quinta do Bomfim in the Cima Corgo and Quinta Senhora da Ribeira in the Douro Superior, with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca making up 80% of the blend. This is opaque and closed in but powerfully ripe with underlying pure berry fruit. It’s seemingly quite introverted compared to some of its peers at this stage, but it’s still full, rich and opulent on the palate. It also shows the latent power of the vintage, made as it is in a slightly drier style (3.4 Baumé), with lovely minty fruit and full, ripe sinewy tannins all the way through the finish. Long and lithe, and very fine.”
Jancis Robinson 18/20 points “Black core with purple rim. Very different from the Stone Terraces just tasted, sweet and somehow more lifted as if more volatile. Hedgerow fruits on the nose, floral too, and again that real sweetness of fruit on the palate. Intense, firmly built but very generous in its sweet fruit character even if not analytically sweeter. Fine-grained but still grainy tannins with some hints of dried fruits on the finish. When I tasted this a second time on a different occasion, it seemed much fresher and more vibrant so I increased my score and lengthened the drinking window.”

 

Summertime has officially arrived with it comes a need for crisp and refreshing white. There are few varietals that have traversed the globe as much as Sauvignon Blanc, and fewer still that are known to pair well with such a variety of cuisines. Take for instance the famously difficult to pair foods like artichoke and salad greens, both of which pair excellently with Sauvignon Blanc thanks to the gooseberry, herbaceous and mineral flavors found in the majority of offerings around the world.  

The Hermit Ram Amphora Salty White North Canterbury 2020 750ML ($44.95) $38 special
Julia Harding MW 17 points “Slightly cloudy very pale gold. Intensely citrus with a light herbal quality. Sour apricot and dried grasses are very subtle. This is complex, creamy, extremely salty. Great complexity and a lovely blend with nothing dominating. Dry, finely tannic, the best flavours of Sauvignon at the core, citrus and herbal and finally green fruits like greengage. Deep, long, salty, a wine for the evening. Good value. Drink 2021–2024”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

G. B. Burlotto “Dives” Langhe Sauvignon, Piedmont 2019 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 25 bottles in stock now
“This estate was the second to plant Sauvignon Blanc in the Langhe after Angelo Gaja. The first vines set root in 1986 and a second parcel was planted ten years later. The folks at Comm. G.B. Burlotto were very happy with the results, and they remain one of the most important proponents of this white grape in a region dominated by red varieties.” –Monica Larner, Wine Advocate (no reviews available)
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $34 

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol Loire 2020 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Blend of young vine parcels on kimmeridgian slopes in the village of Chavignol.”
 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc II – Royale Trocken Pfalz 2020 750ML ($24.95) $19.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Importer note “Multiple vineyards in Deidesheim, mostly Paradiesgarten, but there is also fruit from Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker and Kallstadter Steinacker. Soil: sandy loam, red sandstone, basalt, & löss. Fermentation & Elevage: Fermented entirely in stainless steel.”
 

While Vinopolis doesn’t have a “house” Champagne, we seem to recommend two more than any others, André Clouet’s Grand Réserve and Silver Brut Nature. These have been stalwarts of our sparkling wine section for quite some time and are the wines that we measure all new value-minded Champagnes. 

What makes the Grand Réserve and the Silver so good? For starters, they’re both 100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir, despite not being labeled as Blanc de Noirs. Both wines are perfectly balanced between supple and lively, making them a great reflection of the winemaker Jean-François Clouet. Jean-François believes that good winemakers need to be “very self-centered, a little bit paranoid and a touch schizophrenic…” And the wines that he creates have an energy and personality rare in sub-$75 Champagne, let alone sub-$35.

The Grand Réserve is easy Champagne to love. It’s lightly toasty, citrusy and bright, with a texture to the palate that adds an irresistible tension. It is also an incredible wine to pair with food. We’ve had great success pairing it with everything from oysters to Merguez sausage, and it never fails to add something to the meal.

The Silver Brut Nature is a different, but equally intriguing wine. While the Grand Réserve is drawing 50% from solera and reserve, the Silver is 66% vintage. Jean-François selects complimentary reserve wine and makes certain that the personality of this wine is very direct and delicious. While many zero dosage wines can seem austere, the Silver has clear notes of dried fruits and warm pie crust. And the Pinot Noir shines through with aplomb. While this wine is not shy, it is well-balanced and delivers delicious flavor without seeming flabby.

Did you know that Tête de Cuvee’s can also be non-vintage? While it’s true that non-vintage bottlings are every champenois “Bread and butter” there can still be top offerings made from them. Often done for a stylistic decision rather than economic, the goal is to create “The perfect year” through assemblage.

Andre Clouet crafts their 1911 cuvee from the 10 best plots in their portfolio in the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. The village shares borders with 3 other Grand Cru villages and specialized in powerfully structured Pinot Noir. As such, the 1911 is entirely Pinot Noir and exemplifies the village’s reputation beautifully. Comprised of a single vintage that’s at least 7 years old and a solera based reserve wine that was started in 1998, this is champagne that encapsulates both maturity and youthful vigor. Complex doesn’t begin to cover this wine with the solera aging for the reserve wine portion adding incredible nuance like white truffle, rose petal, ground coffee, and miso to the flavor profile. The aromas are equally compelling, delivering a spectrum of white flowers like jasmine and orange blossom against a chalky backdrop.

Andre Clouet Selections in stock now: 

Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($39.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($239.95) $206 special, (That’s only $34.33 per bottle)! 
Case-12 Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($479.95) $389 special (That’s only 32.41 per bottle!)
Andre Clouet Grande Reserve Brut Champagne NV 3L ($319.95) $279 special, 3 double magnums available 
Decanter 92 points “[Reviewed 2021] Incredible value for a blanc de noirs (100% Pinot Noir) grower Champagne from the grand cru vineyards of Bouzy. It shows gorgeous aromas of stone fruit, citrus and strawberry, with complex brioche nuances, remarkable balance, ongoing elegance and a rich, refined, persistent finish. Drinking Window 2021 – 2026.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 91 points “[Reviewed Apr 2021] The NV Brut Grand Réserve Grand Cru is a pure Pinot Noir from Bouzy. It’s pure, fresh, fine and aromatic on the nose and round and delicate on the palate. The fruit-intense finish is chalky-mineral and stimulatingly fresh in its salty finesse and elegant yeastiness. Nice lemon juice flavors give an extra kick of refreshment. This is a picture-book NV Brut. No indication of disgorgement given.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
 

Andre Clouet Silver Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature Champagne NV 750ML ($39.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Andre Clouet Silver Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature Champagne NV 750ML ($239.95) $206 special, (That’s only $34.33 per bottle)! 
Case-12 Andre Clouet Silver Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature Champagne NV 750ML ($479.95) $389 special (That’s only 32.41 per bottle!)
Andre Clouet Silver Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature Champagne NV 3L ($349.95) $279 special, 20 double magnums in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92+ points “[Reviewed Apr 2021] Clouet’s NV Silver Brut Nature Grand Cru is a pure Bouzy Pinot Noir that was disgorged without any dosage. This disgorgement displays a medium intense golden color and a complex and refined bouquet of ripe and pureed apples and discreet chalky as well as brioche aromas. The palate is elegant, straight and fresh, very pure and salty on the finish. This is a challenging Brut Nature that needs to be aged for two or three years to gain complexity and finesse and to smooth its current edges. The finish is mineral, limestone and salty but also a bit drying at this moment.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Andre Clouet Chalky Brut Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 15 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 93 points “[Reviewed 2021] Brimming with fresh apple, lemon and wild-berry aromas underlined by a note of freshly baked baguette, this begins so charming, then it turns in a fascinating mineral direction with a pronounced saline quality. The excitement comes from the tension between these two sides of this very distinctive champagne. Very long, chalky finish. 100% chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. Drink now.”

Andre Clouet The V6 Experience Brut NV Champagne 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93+ points “Aged for six years on the second lees, the yellow-golden NV Brut The V6 Experience is a Bouzy Pinot Noir that displays great purity and intensity but also reduction on the mineral-scented nose. This is deep and complex, but it needs all our patience and perhaps even a decanter or at least a big glass and lots of aeration. The palate is rich and powerful, firmly structured, very tight and still astringent on the finish, but there is so much finesse paired with power, concentration and fruit, which give the V6 a promising future. The wine just starts a bit slowly (like a rocket, which is pictured on the label), but it will most probably go very steep in a couple of years. I have ever had this cuvée before, so I can only guess, though.”

We have an extensive collection of Clouet Champagnes currently in stock, including a number of large formats, Rose and Vintage bottlings!