Tuesday Newsletter 06-07-2022

In This Newsletter:

Best of Germany: Vineyard Series
Ürziger Würzgarten


Trending Rose: 
Spanish Selections 


Drappier and their Heart of Gold

Soothsayer of Swartland: 
Johan Meyer’s Mother Rock wines 


Perrier-Jouët: Belle Epoque

High Sierra Gredos:

Telmo Rodriguez wines 

Collector’s Corner 
Dominio Pingus: 
The Rachmaninov of Ribera

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Best of Germany: Vineyard Series

Ürziger Würzgarten

 
Easily the most famous of the Mosel’s sub- regions is Bernkastel or Middle Mos. Called the “heart” of the Mosel Valley; it is the most planted in terms of acreage and also production. Some of Germany’s most famous vineyards are nested in this area including Ürziger Würzgarten, Bernkasteler Doctor, and Wehlener Sonnenuhr. The confluence of slope and refraction create a richer and fuller bodied style of Riesling that defines the area and also acts as a measuring rod for the rest of the country. 

These vineyards feature vast percentages of the trademark blue and gray slate which also aids in ripening, and contributes a clean slate-like character to the wine. The more favorable growing conditions allow for the entire spectrum of Riesling to be produced ranging from dry to lusciously sweet (Sometimes from the same vineyard). Bernkastel also holds the crown for highest price ever fetched at auction for a German wine. The bottle in question? A bottle of 1921 Berncastler Doctor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese that had been secretly hidden in their underground cellar for decades. It was sold in 1986 for over $16,000.

The thorough line of the village is the bed of slate that makes up the backbone of the villages wine, contributing clean minerality and heightened aromatics not unlike chalk limestone in Champagne and the Côte d’Or in Burgundy. In some cases the topsoil composition makes a particular vineyard stand apart from the others, such as in the case of Ürziger Würzgarten. Translating to “The Spice garden of Ürzig” the high amount of iron oxide contributes a spicy character against a richer fruit profile than neighboring vineyards. The latter is on account of the precipitous elevation that maximizes UV refraction from the river nearby. Much like the Grand Cru vineyards of France there are multiple owners sourcing from the same vineyard, creating a tapestry of interpretations from the same vintage and site. 

Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling’s in stock now: 

Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese Mosel #7 2017 750ML ($44.95) $33 special
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points 
“The 2017er Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese was harvested at 97° Oechsle. It displays a superbly aromatic, ripe and fruity nose of yellow peach, pineapple, honey, anise and smoke. The wine coats the rather intense palate with juicy yellow and honeyed fruits pepped up by a nice whiff of acidity. The finish is delicately smooth and long. This gorgeous “Auslese GK” in all but name only needs a decade to blossom. 2027-2047.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “A light, zesty style, with jellied lemon, yellow apple and crème brûlée notes. Very refreshing and mouthwatering, featuring a lithe profile that makes this easy to drink now. Rose water and mineral aromas echo on the finish. Drink now through 2035.—A.Z”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “This bottling reflects the only two fuders from 2017 – both harvested in the sector above their press house known as Lang Pichter – that the Merkelbachs considered worthy of designating as Auslese (though the must weights in question were only one degree Oechsle higher than that of this year’s Urglück Spätlese). On the nose, fresh strawberry and kiwi, garlanded in ultra-fragrant freesia, rest on a bed of wet stone, and that description pretty much sums up this wine’s entire winsome performance. The glossy, subtly creamy feel generates a delightful sense of caress, but there is more than enough tangy juiciness of surprisingly fresh strawberry and kiwi to animate and refresh, while a pinch of salt stimulates the salivary glands.”
Terry Theise note “All from the great cadaster Lang Pichter, this is really remarkable; huge fruit served by positive botrytis, classic “big-vintage” mien; a grand conversation among strawberry and kiwi and licorice and all with lovely surging fruit.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!


Markus Molitor Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese Mosel ** GK 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 34 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 97 points
 “According to Markus Molitor, the 2017 Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Auslese ** (Golden Capsule) is made from entirely healthy grapes. It displays a highly attractive bouquet of fine grapefruit and raisin aromas intermixed with flinty-crystalline slate notes. Juicy on the palate, this is a dense, sweet, intense yet piquant, highly delicate Auslese with a long, refined and salty-crunchy finish. Tasted at the domain two times in April 2019.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Markus Molitor Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Mosel  2019 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94+ points
 “Molitor’s 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Kabinett (Green Capsule) opens pure and flinty on the deep and complex, very intense yet bright and fascinating, seductive and terroir-driven nose. Lush and round on the palate yet with salty-piquant and vibrantly fresh acidity, this is a structured, even somewhat tannic Kabinett to cellar for at least 2-3 more years. Very long and endlessly salty. Tasted in May 2021.”   

Weingut Jos. Christoffel Jr. Christoffel-Prum Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese Mosel 2014 750ML ($39.95) $21.90 special, 34 bottles in stock now
 
This is the only listing in the USA today!

We carry over 39 different bottlings from the Ürziger Würzgarten!
 
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Trending Rose: 

Spanish Selections 

If you’re a fan of Catalonian whites or Cava you might have heard of Xarel-Lo, an aromatic white grape that’s often compared to Chardonnay due to its versatility during vinification. Being an indigenous varietal in Spain since 1548 it mutated at some point and also has a red skinned clone called Xarel-lo Vermell. Less than 300 acres of this varietal are still in existence in the entire world, with Gramona dedicating part of their production to preserving the varietal. Expect the acidity, structure and stonefruit character of Xarel-Lo with a definitive red fruited element not unlike Goji , fresh cranberries and redcurrants.

Gramona in stock now: 

Gramona ‘Mart’ Xarel-lo Vermell Rosat Penedes 2020 750ML ($37.95) $29.50 special, 28 bottles available
Eric Solomon Imports note 
“Xarel-lo Vermell Certified organic CCPAE and biodynamic DEMETER. The pale color of this rosé comes from a 48-hour maceration before pressing. With this additional skin contact, combined with the already high levels of antioxidants present in the juice of this variety, Mart cannot only be enjoyed in its youth (peaches and strawberries) but it has the capacity to develop for several years in the bottle as more pink peppercorn nuances emerge.”
 
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Sourced entirely from organic, estate grown Monastrell or Mourvèdre as it’s known elsewhere in the world this is a delightfully refreshing yet dimensional rose featuring juicy red fruit, a plethora of citrus and a good finish. Perfect for those who prefer their wine to have more body and texture while still having aromatic lift.  

Spanish Mourvèdre Rose in stock now: 

Bodegas Bleda Castillo de Jumilla Rosado Jumilla 2020 750ML ($12.95) $10.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Winery note
 “From a harvest in early September, this Monastrell rosé displays an intense array of strawberry and rose notes, woven between a harmony of crisp, blood-orange acidity and a giving, mineral texture. Fresh, tasty and well balanced. Good acidic structure. Excellent with seafood and all types of fish and light meats.”
 
This is the only listing in the USA today!

Pago Casa Gran ‘Casa Benasal’ Rosado Valencia ($14.95) $11.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Staff pick! Our favorite vintage yet.
Winery note “Refreshing wine, young and dry. It’s pleasant with enough body to sustain it. Great acidity. 60% Monastrell and 40% Syrah.”
 
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Drappier and their Heart of Gold
 
Drappier might sound like a Grande Marque, but they’re really a grower producer at heart having been founded in the 12th century and still under family ownership.  They own 53 hectares of vines in the Aube (where they were the first to plant Pinot Noir) and make forward thinking wines at a very friendly price-point.  As one of the only carbon-neutral houses in the entire world, they place as much care in the cellar as they do in the vineyards—and the wines show it. 

Forbes placed the estate’s Carte d’Or, as the #3 “Best Champagne You’ve Never Heard Of” for good reason.  Drappier makes big, flamboyantly rich Champagne that is always a crowd pleaser—at prices that mean you can actually pour it for crowds.  It’s hard to find better bubbly under $40/btl, so if you’re a Champagne drinker you should stock up now. Drappier recently made waves in Europe after refusing to rename their Champagne to “Sparkling Wine” costing them several lucrative contracts with the Russian Federation, including one with the National Airline for the country. 

Drappier in stock now: 

Drappier Carte d’Or Brut Champagne  NV 750ML ($49.95) $35 special 
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 91 points
 “Disgorged in April 2021, Drappier’s new NV Brut Carte d’Or delivers attractive aromas of golden orchard fruit, stone fruit, honeycomb and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it’s charming and elegantly vinous, with a flavorful core of fruit, lively acids and a chalky finish.” 
Wine Spectator 90 points “Racy acidity enlivens this crisp and lacy Champagne. Well-knit, with the delicate mix of ripe white cherry, blanched almond, yellow plum and grated ginger flavors. Drink now. 3,000 cases imported. — AN”
[Disgorgement date may vary from reviews]
 
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Soothsayer of Swartland: 

Johan Meyer’s Mother Rock wines 

 
Johan Meyer is one of the biggest names in the “New School” of South African wine. Working exclusively with old vines in Swartland, he strives to be as low intervention as possible. That philosophy is present from grape to glass as it were; with irrigation and chemical input not practiced in the vineyard and the finished wines receiving no filtration, fining and minimal sulfur. As you can expect after almost a year of not exporting, South African wine has become a rarity in the United States market with what remains being in highly limited quantities.

The Holocene is a blend of Cinsault, Carignan and Mourvèdre sourced from a single vineyard in Malmesbury. Dry farmed and practicing organic this could be seen as South Africa’s riposte to the GSM blends of the Southern Rhone. Very easy to enjoy in that Holocene is perfectly juicy with a minerality that brings to mind crushed lava rock with the classic fynbos you find with South African wine. 

Cinsault is rapidly becoming one of the top red varietals in South Africa and the world on account of it’s drought tolerance and ability to retain acidity during heat waves. As a single varietal there is often a spectrum of blue and red fruits with high acidity and perfumed aromatics. Cinsault pairs beautifully with various cuisines including Nigerian, Lebanese, Greek and barbeque on account of the fruit tea esque tannins and refreshing acidity.     

Most unique out of the Mother Rock wines is their Pet-Nat. Comprised of Chenin Blanc and Pinotage sourced from a single farm. Grown at over 1,000 feet above sea level, the wine is bottled before fermentation completes, creating bubbles from the last of the remaining sugars. Pinotage takes on a spectrum of blue, black and purple fruits underscored by a tertiary plethora of smoke and earth, with the Chenin contributing beeswax, honeysuckle, chamomile, quince and yellow apple. If one had to summarize the wine in a word: Crushable.

Mother Rock wines in stock now: 

Mother Rock ‘Force Majeure – Force Celeste’ Cinsault Swartland 2020 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
Importer note
 “A medium-bodied red with ripe tannins, depth and drinkability from whole bunch fermentation. A great addition to the Force Majeure range.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Mother Rock ‘Holocene’ Swartland 2018 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special
Wine Spectator 91 points
 “Fragrant and distinctive, this tangy red is light- to medium-bodied and racy, offering an expressive profile of steeped raspberry and peach fruit flavors meshed with notes of dried flowers, blood orange zest and medicinal herbs. Lingering, zesty finish. Carignan, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Drink now through 2025. 222 cases made, 56 cases imported. — AN”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Mother Rock ‘Force Majeure – Force Celeste’ Cuvee PN Pet Nat Swartland  2021 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Importer note 
“A Pet-Nat that puts Pinotage in the spotlight. South Africa’s native grape is best known for its bright fruit and deep earthy character, which translate beautifully in this joyful rosé fizz. Slightly hazy salmon-pink in the glass, with aromas of raspberries, blood orange and earthy rhubarb. Fresh in the mouth, with crunchy cranberry fruit and a savoury edge. Delicious and dangerously drinkable at only 11%!”
 
This is the only listing in the USA today!
This is the lowest listed price in the world today!

 
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Perrier-Jouët: Belle Epoque
  
Tête de Cuvees are the crown jewel of any Champagne producer, and that goes double for a Grande Marque due to their roles as the region’s metaphorical “Face”. Of these houses, few are as synonymous with Chardonnay as Perrier-Jouët. Their first vintage of the Belle Époque was in 1964, and has only been made 30 times in decades since. In comparison Dom Perignon has been made 74 different times between Brut and Rose bottlings. Sourced from 5 different villages and aged for 6 years prior to disgorgement, there is meant to be both fruit and tertiary character present. We have released our final allotment of the 2011 bottling with no ETA on our next vintage, with a minuscule amount of the Rose bottling playing second chair to our offer. 

Perrier-Jouët in stock now: 

Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque – Fleur de Champagne Millesime Brut Champagne 2011 750ML ($179.95) $149 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 94 points
 “Always a light, ethereal style of wine, this is also very fresh and still young. It will age with its taut minerality from the Chardonnay in the blend. A softer background will become toasty over the next few years. The vintage date on this bottle is 200 years after the foundation of this producer. Drink from 2021.”
 
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High Sierra Gredos: 

Telmo Rodriguez wines 

 
Telmo Rodriguez is one of the unsung heroes of the Spanish wine revolution, having dedicated his life to rehabilitating some of the most compelling vineyards in the country. After studying at the University of Bordeaux and working throughout France, he returned home to Basque Country. 

With the rise in higher production farming and urbanization there are vast swaths of vineyards across Spain abandoned simply because no one is around to work them. This happened even in Rioja, where Telmo began his work, eventually expanding beyond the region to incorporate 43 different native varietals spread across 355 plots. Given the precipitous conditions of many of the sites, labors of love to not begin to cover how much work goes into the finished wines. Due to the majority of the vineyards being located high in the Sierra Gredos Mountains, mechanized labor and harvesting is impossible. This light touch combined with the mountainous conditions lend themselves to incredibly elegant and transparent expressions of “Old Spain”. 

Telmo Rodriguez in stock now: 

Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pegaso Barrancos de Pizarra’ Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon Spain 2013 750ML ($44.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pegaso Barrancos de Pizarra’ Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon Spain 2013 750ML ($259.95) $185.50 special, That’s only $30.91 per bottle) 
James Sucking 96 points
 “Exuberant red berries and cherries with a fine, rose-like edge and some coal smoke. Very juicy, fleshy, rich and ripe mid-palate with a dense, long and showy, glossy black-cherry finish. Drink or hold.”
Wine Advocate 94 points ” Cropped from a cooler and late ripening vintage, the 2013 Pegaso Barrancos de Pizarra resulted in fresh wines and certainly worked well with the slate soils of these old Garnacha vines in Cebreros. This has a very good balance between ripeness and freshness, power and elegance, with the character of the soils slowly coming through in the shape of fresh meat and beef blood, with the iron-like notes still pretty shy. This should develop nicely in bottle. 8,931 bottles produced.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez ‘Pegaso Barrancos de Pizarra’ Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon Spain 2017 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95+ points
 “The explosive nose of the 2017 Pegaso Barrancos de Pizarra is all thyme and flowers, really expressive, aromatic and redolent of the herbs found in the surroundings of the Gredos Mountains. It’s especially representative of the Mediterranean character of the year. It has powerful aromatics that keep growing in the glass, floral and spicy, with notes that are reminiscent of curry, nutmeg and Jamaica pepper. It’s very showy and intoxicating, with the tight tannins of the slate soils—they are chalky and finer grained than the slightly coarser tannins from granite. I am really impressed by this 2017, which is as good or better than the 2016. Bravo! 2,800 bottles were filled in July 2018.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
 
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Collector’s Corner:

Dominio Pingus: 

The Rachmaninov of Ribera
 
There are only a handful of producers that are as legendary as Pingus. From their very first vintage in 1995, their wines have been described by Robert Parker as “One of the greatest and most exciting wine’s I’ve ever tasted”. The popularity of Pingus exploded when half of the latter vintage sank in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean in transit to the United States. Due to the incredibly small volume of bottles produced by Pingus the price of the bottling doubled literally overnight, with Pingus still being one of the crown jewels of high end wine investment. 
    
Sourced from some of the oldest Tempranillo vines in the entire Ribera del Duero and farmed biodynamically by visionary founder Peter Sisseck, meticulous doesn’t begin to cover the pedigree of these wines. Aggressively pruned to produce only 1-2 buds per bushvine, each hand sorted berry is loaded with concentrated flavor. As you can expect with such an aggressive farming regimen, production volumes are minuscule to say the least. We were only able to secure a 3 bottle allotment of this wine, so you’d better act fast!    

Dominio de Pingus ‘Pingus’ Ribera del Duero 2019 750ML ($1499.95) $1199 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 99 points 
“I tasted the bottled 2019 Pingus two weeks after bottling. Even at this early stage and after the operation, the wine is super harmonious and elegant. They really outdid themselves here and produced an amazingly fresh, aromatic and harmonious wine in a warm vintage. It’s incredibly textured, with refined, very fine-grained and chalky tannins. It’s very balanced, and there’s no excess of anything; it has 14% alcohol, perfect ripeness and a velvety mouthfeel. It gets more floral with time in the glass, getting nuanced and really interesting. It delivers what the barrel sample promised one year ago, when the wine already surprised me. I think the word that best describes this wine is precision—it’s clean, focused, balanced and delineated. Bravo! It was bottled in September 2021.”