Mas Cal Demoura “L’infidele” 2010 750ML ($31.95) Buy Now: $27 special
I have no shame in loving the rough-and-tumble wines of southern France. When the yields are kept in check and the wine’s development isn’t stunted by efforts of standardization, the resulting wines can be at once charming and startling. These sorts of blends have a broader appeal than I think we allow – I’d bet a day’s wages, for one, that you could get a Napa Cab guy and a Loire geek to agree on some gems of the Languedoc.
One such gem comes from Mas Cal Demoura, situated not far from Montpelier along the slopes of the Cévennes mountain range. These wines are soulful, playful – reverent, even, as they’re not shy to display the seemingly-paradoxical traits of their terroir: bold, fresh, mineral-laden, layered, dynamic…“L’Infidele” integrates all five varietals of the domaine each vintage: Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, and Carignan.
Each varietal is fermented separately and then blended to the vintner’s liking. One grape may account for 3% one year and 18% another; this makes the process of tasting year after year particularly interesting. The resultant wine, for 2010, is soil-driven and linear with open-ended red fruit and all-over-the-place aromatics in a good sort of way. I love it. -Tyler