Weekend Vinopolpick- January 25th

January 25, 2014

Six miles from Dijon, Gevrey Chambertin is the most northern village in our newsletter series tour of the Cote de Nuits.  In dramatic contrast to neighboring villages such as Chambolle-Musigny, the Gevrey-Chambertin village makes a surprisingly powerful and masculine style of Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is at its most intense in Gevrey-Chambertin. This is a wine for meat-eaters and mushroom lovers, its gamey notes giving it a particular affinity for meats such as steak or lamb and, when aged to its prime, has an unrivaled earthiness.

Gevrey-Chambertin’s long history in winemaking started with the founding of Gevrey’s most treasured vineyards, Clos de Beze and Chambertin. The Clos de Bèze vineyard was cleared and planted back in the seventh century by monks from the Abbey of Bèze, which owned the land for several ensuing centuries. Chambertin was planted later, in the 12th century, adjacent to the Clos de Beze by a Monsieur Bertin, who felt that he could make good wines if he grew the same grape varieties as his famous next door neighbor. His vineyard was called Champ de Bertin (“Bertin’s field”) and later shortened to Chambertin. Later on in history, Chambertin would surpass the treasured Clos de Bèze in international fame, with periods when the two grand crus would be lumped together, talked about simply as Chambertin. The Chambertin wines were one of Napoleon’s favorites and it is said that he insisted that they be available to him even during his various military campaigns, ordering his troops to salute the vineyards of Chambertin as they marched past.

As with most of Burgundy’s vineyards, both Chambertin and Clos de Bèze have had numerous owners. The Diocese of Langres, leaders of the Langres Cathedral of Northern France, were for a long time guardians of these vineyards, evidence of a long and intimate involvement in the history of Burgundy’s wine industry. The Clos de Bèze vineyard stayed with the Diocese of Langres for four centuries, with records of ownership going to the church in 1219.  The decline of religious institutions in the 1600’s led to many vineyards being sold for a short period before being re-acquired by the church in 1708. This lead to a long dispute between private citizens and the church for ownership of the land before it was eventually sold off privately in the mid-1700’s. In 1847 Gevrey appended the name of the illustrious vineyard, Chambertin, starting a trend for other villages to follow. The official Gevrey-Chambertin AOC was created in 1936, with the designation of its Grand Crus following one year later.

The historic Gevrey-Chambertin village has within its boundaries a bevy of the very most prized vineyards in the world. There are 26 Premier Cru vineyards in Gevrey-Chambertin, several of which produce an amazing amount of wine and are famous in their own right. When Jules Lavalle made his classification in 1855 he put some of the premier crus on the same level as today’s grand crus, a sign of the true quality available in this area. Chambertin and Clos de Bèze were the only ones to make it into his Tête de Cuvée category. One step down he grouped the Grand Crus of Chapelle, Mazy, Ruchottes, Charmes and Griotte together with today’s Premier Crus of St Jacques, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Estournelles and Cazetiers. In all Gevrey today boasts of an impressive 9 Grands Crus, the most Grands Crus of any village in Burgundy, with the name of the prized Chambertin vineyard retaining a regal omnipresence throughout Gevrey’s finest vineyard names (Mazis-Chambertin, Latricieres-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, etc.).

Chambertin and Clos de Bèze are the centrepiece on the grand cru slope south of Gevrey-Chambertin, meeting at side by side. The slope in Chambertin is slightly more gentle, producing a more powerful and masculine wine. Clos de Bèze is steeper, with thinner soil that faces slightly more east and wines that are more elegant by nature. Moving below these two are Mazis- and Latricieres-Chambertin.  Mazis- Chambertin is incredibly concentrated and very fine. Latricières- Chambertin can be explosively fruity, but is more about a delicate silkiness. Situated slightly higher up the slope, Ruchottes-Chambertin is rich and stylish. The tiny Griottes-Chambertin, is lower down the slope and boasts a velvety texture and rich fruit. It is generally denser than the lighter although wonderfully fragrant Chapelle-Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin. In almost the entire Gevrey-Chambertin village, the weather and rainfall conditions are so perfect as to make Pinot Noir practically a tailored grape for the area. The best wines come from these vineyards nestled along hills south of the village, where marl and limestone reaches greater concentration; but there are also some super-star Premier Crus on the hills to the North-West of Gevrey. Thanks largely to the iron-rich clay soils, classic Gevrey Chambertin is typically deeper in colour, firmer in body and more tannic in structure than most red Burgundy. The best can develop into the richest, most complete and long-lived Pinot Noir in the world.

Today there are many fine sources to choose from, with over 100 highly competitive producers in Gevrey-Chambertin, and overall quality is higher than ever. Armand Rousseau and Domaine Roty, one of the oldest wineries in Gevrey, are some of the most celebrated but there are many more to explore. The wines of Dupont-Tisserandot, Serafin, and Dugat-Py, to pick a few, are all based in Gevrey-Chambertin, and will give a clear idea of the expansive depth to Gevrey-Chambertin wines. Massive, yet velvet-smooth, the tannins of Gevrey-Chambertin have power and contribute to its great longevity. The wines survive for decades, taking on an unrivalled complexity of flavor as they mature. Best drinking dates for particular wines vary, but in general these wines require at least 10 years post vintage to reach their prime. The wines, with their complexities of earthiness, smoke and fruit, beautifully reflect the soils and climate where they are grown, the perfect environment for Pinot Noir, and perhaps the original environment of Pinot Noir.

Stock List- Wines of Gevrey Chambertin – Here Now

Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze 2008 ($1499.95) $1,099 special 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points
 “Rousseau’s 2008 Chambertin-Clos de Beze is off the charts. Textured and layered throughout, this exquisite, captivating wine graces the palate with endless fruit framed by silky, refined tannins. All of the elements build effortlessly to the dazzling, impeccably crafted finish. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru 2007 ($179.95) $139 special  5 bottles available
Burghound  89-91 points
 “this offers a big step up in aromatic elegance with very fresh dark berry fruit and warm earth notes that carry over to the underbrush and mineral suffused medium weight flavors that possess a suave and less obviously structured mouth feel as the buried tannins are relegated to the background on the persistent and intense finish. Lovely.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2002 ($119.95) $99 special  1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points
 “full ruby-red. High-pitched, wonderfully vibrant aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice, menthol, leather and game. Juicy, brisk and tightly wound, with sharply delineated flavors of black fruits, licorice, menthol and fresh herbs. This has real sap, as well as superb length for a village wine.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2003 ($119.95) $99 special 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89 points
 ” Superripe, slightly porty aromas of black cherry, damp earth and chocolate. Fat, full and compellingly sweet, with just enough freshness to maintain its balance. Finishes with substantial palate-coating tannins and notes of smoke and truffle.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2005 ($119.95) $99 special 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points
 “($122) deep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of cherry, raspberry and licorice. Dense, lush and sweet, with superb depth of black raspberry and smoked meat flavor for a village wine. As ripe and rich as this rather massive wine is, sound acidity keeps it from going over the top. Finishes with serious tannins that are currently hidden by the wine’s fruit. “it’s a vintage that imposes itself,” notes Dugat.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Chambertin 2008 ($119.95) $89 special   9 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89 points
 “good red-ruby color. Dark fruits, spices, game and leather on the nose. Good density of material is currently fighting strong acidity, giving the wine a slightly tart quality and a disjointed character. Rather severe today, but the penetrating spicy acidity extends the finish. This very serious village wine will require at least a few years of bottle aging.”

Claude Dugat Gevrey Lauvaux Saint Jacques 2007 ($209.95) $179 special   5 bottles available
Burghound 91 points ‘Outstanding’
 “a deft touch of wood frames cool, refined, elegant and quite pure red berry fruit aromas that carry obvious stony undertones that also characterize the supple, focused and intense flavors that are tautly muscled and feature real precision on the beautifully long finish. This is a classic lavaut in style as there is a definite coolness and the entire wine is built on a base of firm minerality.”

Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2006 ($69.95) $49 special 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator 90 points
 “smooth and ripe, evoking red and black cherry and oak spice notes. Balanced and juicy, yet with firm, fine-grained tannins underneath, followed by a nice expansive finish. Drink now through 2016.”

Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2010 ($119.95) $89 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-92 points
 “the 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin is a very serious wine at this level. It boasts incredible finesse and sheer energy in a polished, pure expression of Gevrey. Ripe red berries, minerals and licorice are some of the notes that inform the wiry, intense finish. The average age of the vines is 40 years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.”

Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Deree Vieille Vigne 2003 ($99.95) $79 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 88 points
 “this too is fresh and bright with pretty raspberry and blackberry liqueur aromas and strong earth nuances that introduce very forward and easy flavors that are surprisingly precise and this finishes with a dense, sappy and moderately structured backend. This is not typical but ultimately more interesting than the combe du dessus.”

Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2006 ($99.95) $79 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 89 points
 “This is finer and more elegant if reserved with reticent, ripe and earthy red pinot fruit that displays a touch of forest floor that slides into delicious, rich and full-bodied flavors that possess good dry extract levels and a mouth coating finish that possesses excellent phenolic maturity. A serious villages built to age that is recommended.”

Denis Mortet Gevrey- Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2010 ($149.95) $109 special 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-93 points
 “the 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin vieilles vignes blossoms onto the palate with an effortless grace that is hard to describe with mere words. There is tremendous depth and richness in the glass, but no heaviness whatsoever. Layers of fruit radiate through to the generous, resonant, yet ethereal finish. This is a stunning wine for the appellation. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.”

Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er 2005 ($179.95) $149 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points 
“(an assemblage of numerous smaller parcels) Good bright dark red. Black raspberry, mocha and a whiff of game on the nose. Sweeter and creamier than the village wine, with redder fruit flavors and good finesse. Not hugely dense but boasts good richness and length. Tannins are youthfully taut, and the finish shows notes of mocha, game and tarry oak.”

Domaine Dujac Charmes Chambertin 2009 ($399.95) $239 special  1 bottle available
Burghound 92 points 
“a reasonably fresh nose of very ripe red berries, earth and a hint of minerality leads to rich, round and solidly well-concentrated medium-bodied flavors that exude a fine dry extract that buffers the firm tannins on the delicious if ever-so-mildly-austere finish. This should be good though it will not necessarily be a good candidate for drinking young.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Coeur du Roy Vieille Vigne 2005 ($119.95) $169 special 4 bottles available
Burghound 92 points ‘Outstanding!’
 “a deeply pitched and slightly riper nose of cassis and spiced plum adds nuance to the intensely earthy aromas where the earth character can also be found on the rich, full and voluminous flavors that are almost opulent on the mid-palate yet the finish is borderline austere. This is a very serious effort that has a velvety texture but tightens up quickly on the backend due to the buried stucture. Terrific potential here in a “built for the long haul” package that delivers amazing quality for its level.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Champeaux 2009 ($429.95) $339 special  6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93-96 points 
“the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin les champeaux is one of the richest, darkest wines in this lineup. The champeaux is a decidedly opulent wine that emphasizes sheer extract of fruit over aromatic complexity. There is plenty of underlying tannic material, but the tannins are totally buried by the sheer depth of the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Coeur de Roi 2009 ($249.95) $199 special 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-93 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin coeur du roi is a dark, inward wine. It shows serious weight and density in its dark fruit and sensual personality. A blast of smoke, licorice and menthol informs the long, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Petite Chapelle 2009 ($429.95) $339 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92-95 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle opens with a sensual, exotic bouquet. Layers of crisp, nuanced fruit follow effortlessly as this seductive wine shows off its pedigree. Full-bodied and supple on the palate, the magnificent Petite Chapelle conquers all of the senses. The finish is breathtaking and eternal. This is a dazzling effort from Dugat-Py. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2008 ($139.95) $99 special 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points
 “the 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin vieilles vignes, from vines ranging from 30-50 years of age, shows superb length in a mid-weight, mineral-driven style. With time in the glass the silkiness of the tannins emerges as the wine takes shape. Elegant and refined throughout, the vieilles vignes possesses captivating balance and a great sense of harmony. This is a beautiful wine from Dugat-Py, but it needs time. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2009 ($159.95) $129 special 18 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90(+?) points
 “(aged in 80% new oak, vs. 60% for the Vieilles Vignes):  Good deep red.  Reticent aromas of black cherry, coffee and mocha.  Fatter and riper than the Vieilles Vignes but a bit more liqueur-like and showing more oaky torrefaction.  Not quite as pristine today, and the tannins are a bit aggressive, but this this wine really begs for a few years of cellaring. ”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Evocelles 2002 ($219.95) $179 special 1 bottle available
Burghound  ‘Outstanding pick’
 “this is more elegant aromatically with a lovely hint of minerality to complement the earthy, slightly gamy notes leading to supple yet incredibly dense, wonderfully pure and beautifully textured flavors plus a powerfully long finish. Fine balance and superb overall quality for a villages level Gevrey.”Dugat-Py Gevrey Evocelles 2009 ($249.95) $199 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-92 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin les Evocelles is deep, dark and sensual in its inviting layers of dark fruit, spices and menthol. Clean, mineral notes frame the long, intensely satisfying finish. This saw 100% new oak, but you would hardly know it based on the wine’s exceptional balance. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2049.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey Lauvaux Saint Jacques 2009 ($429.95) $339 special 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93-96 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Lauvaux st. Jacques hovers on the palate with an impeccable, ethereal expression of fruit. This is all grace and elegance, but it isn’t an obvious wine, rather it is a wine that slowly seduces the palate and intellect. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.”

Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin ‘1er’ 2009 ($399.95) $299 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-94 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is a totally seamless, opulent wine that caresses the palate with layers of intense fruit. Full-bodied and rich to the finish, the 1er Cru is flat-out beautiful. This authoritative burgundy will require patience, but it is striking in is harmony. In 2009 the 1er Cru is made from parcels in les corbeaux and les perrieres, as Dugat made the decision to vinify and age the Fontenys separately in this vintage.”

Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin 2003 ($699.95) $599 special 1 bottle available
Robert Parker  95 points 
“boisterous aromas of spices and waxy black cherries galore burst from the glass of the 2003 Charmes-Chambertin. Its fabulously oily texture combined with its power, concentration, and length make this rich, expansive beauty a delight to taste. Myriad spices are intermingled with red and black fruits in its sensual, long character. Anticipated maturity now -2015.”

Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin 2006 ($399.95) $319 special  3 bottles available
Burghound  95 points
 “a red berry liqueur nose complements beautifully the excellent quality and fine material of the generous, rich, sweet and full-bodied flavors that possess excellent detail despite the robust character of the mid-palate, all wrapped in a strikingly complex, dusty, mouth coating and amazingly long finish. This is a seriously impressive effort and a legitimate candidate for the Charmes of the vintage; note however that patience will be required.”

Dujac Fils & Pere Gevrey Chambertin 2010 ($109.95) $79 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 87-89 points
 “Discreet wood frames very fresh and distinctly earthy cool wild red berry fruit that marries into rich and beautifully textured middle weight flavors that possess both good energy and an attractive sense of minerality on the balanced finish. This exhibits good build from the mid-palate through to the vibrant finish. Very good quality here and this should age well over the short to medium-term.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Chambertin 2009 ($59.95) $44 special 9 bottles available
Burghound  88-91 points
 “a slightly riper and more complex if less elegant aromatic profile speaks of game, underbrush and dark berry fruit aromas that complement well the earthy, rich, concentrated and serious medium-bodied flavors that possess firm tannins and fine balance on the solidly long finish. This is quite good and worth considering for its level.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Chambertin 2010 ($49.95) $39 special 27 bottles available
Burghound 89-91 points
 “this is also quite pure with attractive and relatively high-toned aromas of fresh red and dark berry fruit that complement well the detailed, intense and equally earthy medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent precision and plenty of vibrancy on the serious, balanced and solidly persistent finish. This is an excellent and age-worthy villages that is worth a look.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Cazetiers 2009 (99.95) $79 special 10 bottles available
Burghound 93 points
 “This is consistently one of the very best wines in the Dupont line-up and it often challenges the grands crus. The ’09 version is a stunner and Chevillon professes that it is the best example of the vineyard that he has ever made. An ultra-fresh and distinctly earthy nose offers up a cool nose of red pinot fruit that introduces rich, intense and mineral-driven broad-shouldered flavors that possess buckets of dry extract that buffer well the otherwise very firm tannic spine on the impressively long, chewy and mouth coating finish. This is definitely worth considering.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Cazetiers 2010 ($119.95) $89 special 28 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points
 “very mild reduction does not completely hide the much more deeply pitched nose that is more sauvage in character and while the fruit is muted, there is a clearfloral component. There is excellent mid-palate density to the powerful and broad-shouldered flavors that possess a textured mouth feel before culminating in a precise, intense and very stony finish that delivers Grand Cru length and punch. I have pointed this out before but the dupont Cazetiers always seems to be particularly successful and the 2010 version is no exception.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Clos Prieur 2010 ($54.95) $41.90 special  31 bottles available
Burghound 87-89 points
 “discreet wood spice adds breadth to the very fresh cool red cherry and earth suffused nose that is in keeping with the vibrant, detailed and impressively pure mineral-laden flavors. I like the sense of underlying tension and balance on the lingering finish.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Lauvaux Saint Jacques 2009 ($99.95) $75 special 8 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points 
“this is rich, lush and permeated with sandalwood, black currant and blackberry flavors. The tannins have a grainy sensation, keeping this focused and rooted in the earth. Tobacco and spice accents add depth. Best from 2015 through 2029.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Lauvaux Saint Jacques 2010 ($99.95) $75 special 8 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points
 “here the nose is quite cool if not more elegant with a broad ranging nose of rose petals, wet stone and wild red berry fruit liqueur aromas. The beautifully detailed flavors are seductively textured thanks to the presence of a profusion of sap on the intensely mineral-driven, precise and complex finish. This is a stunner of a lavaut.”

Dupont Tisserandot Gevrey Petite Chapelle 2010 ($89.95) $69 special 32 bottles available
Burghound  91-93 points 
“not surprisingly, this is more elegant still with pure and ripe aromas of cherry and raspberry liqueur that marry into stony, detailed and racy middle weight flavors that are blessed with an abundance of mouth coating dry extract, all wrapped in a driving finish. I very much like the sense of harmony and balance and this is textbook Petite Chapelle with its ultra-refined mouth feel. In a word, impressive.”

Dupont Tisserandot Charmes-Chambertin 2009 ($159.95) $109 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 90-93 points
 “noticeable wood fights somewhat with the otherwise fresh red berry, earth and underbrush infused nose that precedes ripe, rich and full-bodied flavors that possess a textured mouth feel due to the abundant sap that also buffers the solid but integrated tannins on the powerful and impressively long if somewhat toasty finish. This is very good and there is sufficient concentration that it should eat its wood in time but it’s clear that this is not at the same level as the Cazetiers.”

Dupont Tisserandot Charmes-Chambertin 2010 ($139.95) $109 special 24 bottles available
Burghound 93 points
 “(80% from Charmes proper with the balance from mazoyères; the two parcels total .8 ha). The presence of the wood treatment is more visible on the exceptionally fresh and pure mix of wild red berry fruit aromas and pungent earth scents. There is excellent power to the rich and admirably concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess outstanding complexity, intensity and drive, all wrapped in a balanced and seriously persistent finish. This will require at least 10 years of cellar time to really unfold and 12 to 15 is likely to be the sweet spot.”

Dupont Tisserandot Mazis-Chambertin 2009 ($159.95) $119 special  4 bottles available
Burghound 94 points 
“Here the wood is already well-integrated with a relatively high-toned and slightly fresher nose of wild red currant, floral, spice and intensely earthy aromas that are more elegant than is typical for both the vintage and the appellation. The textured, concentrated, broad-scaled and overtly muscular flavors possess excellent detail and a fine-grained minerality on the firm but not aggressively tannic and mouth coating finish. This powerful effort is finer than I usually find it though to be sure, there is plenty of muscle present.”

Dupont Tisserandot Mazis-Chambertin 2010 ($149.95) $119 special 8 bottles available
Burghound  92-95 points
 “soft wood frames the overtly ripe and distinctly animale aromas of mostly red berry fruit and wet stone. The stony, serious, concentrated and openly powerful medium weight plus flavors possess wonderful delineation on the balanced and hugely long finish. While clearly taut and muscular this is actually on the refined side for the appellation and while it should be approachable young it should also age and improve effortlessly for the next 15 years or so.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot 2010 ($64.95) $49 special 11 bottles available
Winery notes-
 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Craipillot is a 6.8 acre vineyard situated south of the village of Gevrey Chambertin. The Domaine Faiveley parcel contains .33 acres of vines planted in very stony fossiliferous and white marl soils.

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers 2008 ($99.95) $79 special 2+ cases available
Burghound  93 points
 “a strikingly layered nose combines ample amounts of pungent Gevrey-style earth, spice, iron notes and ripe red and dark berry fruit that meld with very serious, even brooding big-bodied flavors that are built on a base of firm minerality and finish with excellent richness and depth. This is a classic Gevrey in both style and character with excellent power and really lovely balance. In a word, terrific.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers 2009 1.5l ($219.95) $179 special 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 points
 “a seductive style, with sweet spice, sandalwood, floral and cherry aromas and flavors allied to a silky texture. It’s all beautifully balanced and ends with refined, integrated tannins for focus. Excellent length and freshness. Best from 2014 through 2030.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Clos Issarts 2006 ($89.95) $69 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points 
“good full, deep red. Smoky red fruits complicated by stony minerality. Deep, suave and fine-grained, conveying an impression of gentle extraction. Not a large-scaled or powerfully structured wine but as deep as the combe aux moines. This silky, dry wine finishes long and subtle, with notes of smoke and minerals. As promising a vintage of this cuvee as i can recall tasting. The premier Cru Clos des Issarts is located barely yards from Ruchottes-Chambertin.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Clos Issarts 2010 ($89.95) $69 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 88-91 points
 “good bright, dark red.  Reduced, rather wild aromas of cherry and mocha.  Sweet and thick but a bit youthfully tart owing to firm acidity.  Densely packed but disjointed today, with saline soil tones dominating the middle palate.  Tannins are nicely ripe though.  In a reductive phase and hard to assess with accuracy.”

Faiveley Mazis Chambertin 2006 ($159.95) $129 special 11 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points
 ” a distinctly sauvage and somber dark berry fruit nose gives off notes of iron tinged warm earth, underbrush, Crushed herbs and a hint of smoke followed by rich, full and moderately wooded full-bodied flavors that are notably powerful and supported by very firm tannins on the serious, long and backward finish. This too will require upward of two decades of cellar time so don’t buy this if you’re not prepared to be patient.”

Faiveley Mazis Chambertin 2008 ($249.95) $169 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points
 “good deep red. Ineffably complex aromas of wild red fruits, menthol, white pepper, minerals and powdered stone. A wine of great nobility, a bit imploded on entry, then wonderfully complex and aromatic in the middle, with terrific sappiness and energy to the lightly saline flavors of red fruits, spices, licorice and Crushed stone. The rising, endless finish titillates the taste buds. This makes the Latricieres seem dry in comparison.”

Faiveley Mazis Chambertin 2010 ($249.95) $189 special 24 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 points 
“the cherry, raspberry, earth, spice, and mineral flavors are offset by the smoky oak and solid tannins in this well-defined red. Vibrant and long, offering oak spice and mineral on the finish. This should develop beautifully. Best from 2016 – 2035.”

Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin 2008 ($189.95) $159 special 12 bottles available
Burghound  94 points 
“a distinctly cool and ultra-elegant nose of restrained and exceptionally fresh mineral-infused red pinot fruit gives way to stone-inflected, tightly focused and delineated middle weight plus flavors that are beautifully tension-filled. This possesses a beguiling personality as there’s real verve and punch on the delicious but linear finish where more minerality surfaces. This strikingly persistent effort is not only classy but seriously lovely as the sense of harmony is second to none in this group. Moreover, because this is a wine of refined power, it could actually be enjoyed now though it seems a shame to waste so much upside potential.”

Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin 2010 ($229.95) $169 special   13 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points
 “good bright dark red.  Wonderful mineral tang lifts the complex aromas of raspberry, cherry, pomegranate, coffee, pepper and spices.  Fat, sweet and deep, with the piquant minerality and a peppery element giving lift and energy to the middle palate.  Notes of candied strawberry and raspberry are complicated by saline soil tones.  Powerfully structured wine with long, bright finishing flavors that saturate the sides of the mouth.”

Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze 2008($279.95) $219 special 9 bottles available
Burghound 95 points 
“this too evidenced a hint of reduction that almost immediately dissipated. Otherwise, a background touch of wood highlights an expressive and impressively nuanced nose of red berry fruit that displays a broad range of spice and earth note. At present, this is really very backward though there is very good richness to the full-bodied and quite serious flavors that possess plenty of mid-palate extract that renders the dense but fine tannins almost invisible on the moderately austere and superbly long finish. This knockout bèze has the balance and material to effortlessly improve over the next 12 to 15 years.”

Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze 2011 ($329.95) $259 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points
 “good deep red.  Deeply pitched, slightly reduced nose dominated by smoky minerality, musky soil tones, game bird, gunflint and dried rose.  Thick, sweet and very intense, offering terrific smoky, soil-driven complexity but not yet displaying its underlying fruit.  Finishes with big, fine-grained tannins and excellent length.  Doesn’t yet show the sheer eclat of the Mazis, but this may be going through an awkward stage.”

Fourrier Gevrey Goulots 2008 ($139.95) $99 special 31 bottles available
John Gilman 92-93 points
 “the les Goulots had finished up its malo completely and was really singing in november. The wine offers up a terrific nose of sappy red and black cherries, a touch of blood orange, raw cocoa, great minerality and a lovely, violet topnote. On the palate the wine is medium-full, long, transparent and tangy, with a lovely core of sappy fruit, moderate tannins and great length and grip on the complex and extremely elegant finish. 2016-2040.”

Frederic Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin Estournelles 2011 ($59.95) $49 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91+ points
 “(these vines are now at least 55 years of age, according to frederic Esmonin, and produce very small grapes):  good deep red with a ruby tinge.  Silky on entry, then sweet and penetrating in the middle palate, with cherry and redcurrant fruit flavors lifted by spices.  Very long and subtle on the back end, with nicely enrobed tannins saturating the entire palate and giving the wine plenty of structure for a graceful evolution in bottle.  A step up in sweetness from the foregoing samples.”

Frederic Esmonin Mazy Chambertin 2011 ($119.95) $89 special 5 bottles available
Burghound  93 points 
“a discreet application of wood sets off a combination of both red and dark pinot fruit along with sauvage, humus and stone notes. This is unusually concentrated for an Esmonin Mazis with ripe supporting tannins shaping the fleshy and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that brim with a fine minerality on the impressively well-balanced and persistent finish. This is terrific and given the attractive prices for which the Esmonin wines typically sell, this should be on your buy list as it offers both quality and value, not something that can be said about all Grands Crus plus it should age well.”

Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes Chambertin 2011 ($119.95) $89 special 12 bottles available
Burghound  93 points
 “this is also exceptionally fresh with ripe and spicy dark berry fruit that displays whispers of truffle, stone and underbrush. The stony character is front and center on the textured and relatively precise middle weight flavors that are supported by phenolically ripe tannins that are more refined than those of the Mazis before terminating in a balanced and mildly austere finish that delivers outstanding length. Like the Mazis, this offers both excellent quality and value in an ageworthy package.”

Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vigne 2010 ($74.95) $59 special 4+ cases available
Burghound 91 points
 ” gorgeously complex and lightly spiced nose serves up notes of violet, plum and plenty of pungent earth that is also reflected by the dense and serious medium-bodied flavors. There is excellent volume and concentration to the mid-palate that possesses impeccable phenolic ripeness, all wrapped in a seductive yet linear finish. This is very Gevrey in character with a brawny yet not overtly rustic mouth feel. Recommended.”

Geantet-Pansiot Charmes Chambertin 2008 ($219.95) $179 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 93 points 
“a reserved but fresh and very pretty nose of primarily red berries cut with hints of earth and oak that complements well the rich, full-bodied and powerful broad-shouldered flavors that are supported by a firm tannic spine and excellent dry extract levels that coat the palate on the beautifully long finish. This is head and shoulders above the rest of the range but note that patience will be required.”

Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur 2009 ($69.95) $59 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur emerges from the glass with layers of dark fruit, minerals, white flowers and spices. It shows considerable depth and finesse in the deep, fruit-driven style that is the hallmark at this address. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.”

Jacques Prieur Chambertin Grand Cru 2008 ($399.95) $319 special   6 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points
 “This cool and equally fresh and restrained nose offers notably denser and much more complex aromas of red and blue pinot fruit, violets, earth and pungent minerality that is very much in keeping with the backward and ultra primary flavors that are firm, intense and precise, all wrapped in an austere, driving and powerful finish. This has everything it needs to amply reward long-term cellaring and it will need it.”

Jacques Prieur Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 ($379.95) $299 special     5 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points 
“Moderate reduction renders the nose difficult to read though there is good energy to the cool, reserved and tight broad-shouldered flavors that are stunningly complex and hugely long on the mineral-driven finish. This is a seriously impressive effort that just oozes class.”

Louis Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin 2008 ($49.95) $33 special 3 cases available
Burghound 88-90 points 
“like the fixin, this is unusually elegant with a pretty blend of upper and lower register aromas that include fresh red berry fruit with earth and underbrush nuances that also extend to the detailed, pure and very Gevrey-like medium-bodied flavors that possess both excellent depth and length on the vibrant and lingering finish. The old vine sap is in evidence and this is one to consider as it’s a fine villages.”

Louis Boillot Gevrey-Chambertin Evocelles 2008 ($74.95) $49 special 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-92 points
 “sweetly ripe morellos cherries such as one found in the corresponding 2006 fill the nose and mouth from Boillot’s 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin les Evocelles, which also evinces an especially savory if elusive meatiness and the piquancy of fruit pits. Sappy and vibrant through to its long finish, this superb evocation of an under-rated site should be worth attending to for at least a decade.”

Louis Boillot Gevrey Chambertin Evocelles 2010 ($69.95) $49 special 10 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer  90-92 points 
“bright ruby-red.  Cassis and strong spicy oak on the nose; this initially reminded me of cabernet!  Dense, rich and seamless, with almost Grand Cru-like volume and suave texture.  Fully ripe but classically dry wine with fine-grained tannins and superb dark berry persistence.  “fully 70% of the grapes were affected by millerandage,” noted Boillot.  “we’ve never seen that here.”

Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin 2010 ($59.95) $39 special 30 bottles available
John Gilman 89+ points“the 2010 Gevrey ac was also one of the last to finish up malo in the cellars this year, but the wine was showing very good potential. The nose is a fine mélange of black cherries, cassis, coffee bean, fresh herb tones, woodsmoke and black minerality. On the palate the wine is fullish, long and complete, with a fine core, moderate tannins and very good length and grip on the tangy finish. This too will get a ‘booster’ of de-classified premier Cru barrels and will probably merit a 90+ point score once that takes place.”

Louis Jadot Gevrey Chambertin 2011 ($54.95) $41.90 special 24 bottles available
John Gilman 90 points
 “the Jadot team vinified the Gevrey ac in its entirety and this too, is a very strong village wine in 2011. The deep, quite red fruity and superb nose jumps from the glass in a mix of cherries, blood orange, grilled meats, mustard seed, dark soil tones and cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and very soil-driven, with excellent focus and balance, fine-grained tannins and very good length and grip on the backend. Another excellent village wine, and this too will receive a chunk of premier Crus into the final blend before bottling!”

Louis Jadot Gevrey Clos Saint Jacques 2011 ($169.95) $129 special 16 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer  92-94 points 
“good medium red. Red berries, coffee and mocha on the nose, with a note of blood orange emerging with air. Began large-scaled and spicy but rather inexpressive, but aeration brought greater sweetness of fruit and elegance, with a whiff of blood orange providing lift. Ultimately more expansive than the Estournelles but this wine will need at least a few years in the cellar following its release.”

Louis Jadot Gevrey Estournelles Saint Jacques 09 ($129.95) $79 special 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-93 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles st. Jacques emerges from the glass with explosive dark fruit. This is an especially large scaled, big style of Gevrey, but all of the elements come together nicely in the glass. The tannins turn incisive on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.”

Louis Jadot Gevrey Lauvaux Saint Jacques 2009 ($129.95) $79 special 5 bottles available
Burghound 90-92 points
 “in contrast to the expressiveness of the lavaut, this is quite restrained with cool red stone-infused aromas that possess a background trace of Gevrey-style earth and game. The detailed and energetic flavors possess good depth on the linear and mildly austere finish. I like the quality of the underlying material and this should age well as it has both the concentration and overall balance to do so.”

Louis Jadot Gevrey Petite Chapelle 2009 ($109.95) $69 special 7 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 87-89 points
 “Palish medium red. Rather medicinal, minty nose. Supple on entry but cool and minty in style, with fruit in the background. Shows good length but the tannins are dominant today.”

Louis Jadot Charmes Chambertin 2009 ($179.95) $119 special  4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-92 points
 “the 2009 Charmes-Chambertin shows excellent suppleness in its round fruit. This is a generous, open style with good balance, even if the wine lacks the sheer excitement of the best selections here. Bright red fruits and flowers inform the open, accessible finish. The Charmes is made from purchased wine. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.”

Louis Jadot Chapelle Chambertin 2009 ($249.95) $159 special  15 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points
 “(from the oldest vines of the entire Jadot portfolio of owned vineyards). A pretty and cool mix of upper and lower register aromas includes notes of red currant, wild red berries, earth and stone hints. The attractively energetic and focused medium weight plus flavors possess very fine mid-palate concentration with a silky yet firm mouth feel. There is excellent depth and length to the palate staining finish that is an exercise in harmony and balance though there is some youthful asperity present. Lovely and this should age exceptionally well.”

Louis Jadot Chapelle Chambertin 2011 ($219.95) $169 special  6 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points 
“this is also sufficiently reduced that it is hard to read the nose but it would appear that the underlying fruit is notably ripe. There is an elegant mouth feel to the mineral-driven and admirably pure medium-bodied flavors that possess outstanding depth and length and the very firmly structured finish. This is a beautiful effort but note that it would best be purchased only by the very patient.”

Louis Jadot Mazis Chambertin 2009 ($219.95) $179 special 15 bottles available
Burghound  92-95 points
 “this is actually quite elegant with cool and wild red berry aromas that display discreet hints of earth and the sauvage. The restrained, precise and intense medium-bodied flavors possess very good concentration and the sauvage character really comes up on the energetic and gorgeously complex finish. This is not an especially big or powerful Mazis but the balance is impeccable as is the beautiful sense of harmony. This should also age very well.”

Louis Jadot Chambertin Clos de Beze 2011 ($299.95) $249 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94-97 points
 “good medium red.  Extravagantly complex nose combines raspberry, wild rose, Crushed rock, clove, mocha and wild herbs.  Wonderfully subtle, spherical and nuanced, communicating an almost 3-d texture to the flavors of red berries, spices, licorice, herbs and flowers.  The wine’s firm spine of tannins is utterly covered by lush, fleshy fruit today.  The thick, slowly rising finish washes over the palate like a wave.”

Maume Gevrey-Chambertin 2009 ($59.95) $49 special 4 bottles available
Importer notes- 
“This highly peedigreed blend of ten different vineyard parels throughout the village of Gevrey offers a great introduction to the complexity, deep earthiness, and soul of Domaine Maume’s style.”

Maume Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etolois 2009 ($69.95) $55 special 6 bottles available
Winery notes-
“Domaine Maume village Gevrey-Chambertin holdings are each in themselves noble vineyards. ‘Aux Etelois’ is also on the grand cru slope just below Griotte-Chambertin. These remarkable, distinctive single vineyard bottlings drink way above their appellation year in, year out. ”

Maume Mazi-Chambertin 2009 ($169.95) $139 special 8 bottles available
Maume is a relatively tiny estate in Gevrey-Chambertin, which, during the stewardship of Bernard Maume was just under 4 hectares. His son Bertrand, the fifth generation of the family at the domaine, joined in 1988 and is now responsible for closer to 5 hectares of vines of which the grand cru Mazis-Chambertin is their single largest plot.

Maume Charmes-Chambertin 2009 ($169.95) $139 special 11 bottles available
Importer notes
– “The Maume wines have a well deserved reputation for long term cellaring potential. Maume does not use new clones but is a strong believer in the diversity of old Pinot stock. By replanting vines with the healthiest grapes, they are sure to replant only the best. Maume’s Charmes-Chambertin is a very low production wine, making it a rare treat for those who come across it. ”

Nicolas Potel Gevrey Chambertin 2006 ($49.95) $29 special 38 bottles available
Burghound notes- 
“An unusually pretty and expressive nose of airy red berry fruit nuanced by touches of earth, underbrush, stone and only a trace of the sauvage slides into rich, full and attractively intense flavors that culminate in a moderately firm and only slightly rustic finish. This is not overly complex but it’s certainly delicious.”

Nicolas Potel Chambertin Grand Cru 2006  ($199.95) $169 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer  92 points
 “good medium red. Explosive, wild aromas of black raspberry and smoked meat. At once suave and powerful, with a compellingly layered texture and great depth to its flavors of black fruits, game, pepper and earth. Wonderfully thick, powerfully structured wine with great back-end breadth and persistence. A powerful expression of soil, and built for a long life in bottle. The finish shows an intriguing suggestion of black olive.”

Perrot Minot Gevrey Chambertin Fontenys 2008 ($159.95) $109 special 6 bottles available
Perrot Minot produces this bottling from selectively purchased grapes from the 1er Cru of Les Fontenys. The wines are  50-100% destemmed, cold macerated for a week before 12-14 months of cask aging.

Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin 2008 ($199.95) $149 special 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93+ points 
“the 2008 Chapelle-Chambertin is a huge wine endowed with striking purity in its rich, dark fruit. Despite its sheer richness, the Chapelle also shows great tension in structural elements. In short, it’s all there in this magnificent, compelling burgundy. Today the oak is a bit dominant and the fruit needs to settle down, but this is shaping up to be a magnificent wine. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.”

Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin 2009 ($219.95) $179 special 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points 
“the 2009 Chapelle-Chambertin floats across the palate with delicate red berries, flowers and sweet spices. Highly expressive, perfumed aromatics are woven throughout, while silky tannins convey an impression of pure sensuality. I especially like the way the Chapelle freshens up in the glass, always a good sign for the future. Of the 2009s i tasted from bottle, the Chapelle is the one wine that appears a bit reticent today. Pierre Damoy’s 2009s have turned out magnificently. Damoy remains one of my favorite under-the-radar growers. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.”

Pierre Damoy Chambertin Grand Cru 2008 ($219.95) $189 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points
 “Damoy’s 2008 Chambertin is a dazzling wine. The aromatics, fruit and structural components all come together beautifully in this silky, dramatic burgundy. I especially like the way the fruit wraps around the palate all the way through to the finish. Sweet red berries, flowers and spices add the final layers of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028.”

Pierre Damoy Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 ($249.95) $219 special 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points
 “the 2009 Chambertin is seriously intense in its deep, intricate layers of fruit. Floral overtones and hints of licorice add complexity as the wine opens up over time. The Chambertin finishes with substantial energy while maintaining tons of aromatic freshness and complexity. In short, it is a marvelous, complete wine with many years of brilliant drinking ahead. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.”

Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin 2009 ($399.95) $349 special 5 bottles available
Burghound 93-95 points
 “somewhat surprisingly, here the nose is even more elegant than that of the griotte with its cool, airy and pure red cherry-liqueur, spice and essence of liquid minerality suffused nose that leads to dense, intense and equally mineral-driven big-bodied but refined flavors, all wrapped in a beautifully detailed, explosively long and youthfully austere finish. This is a serious and quite restrained effort that will require the better part of two decades to reach its full apogee.”

Domaine Rene Leclerc Gevrey Chambertin 2008 ($49.95) $36 special 10 bottles available
Burghound 87 points
 “A very fresh and rather woodsy nose of forest floor, floral and wild red berry aromas merges into relatively refined flavors that possess a detailed and earthy finish that is clean, linear and mildly austere. This is quite fine for a villages Gevrey.”

Domaine Rene Leclerc Gevrey Chambertin 2009 ($59.95) $39 special 2+ cases available
Burghound notes 
“a reserved nose speaks of pungent earth and fresh red currant aromas that slide seamlessly into nicely rich and voluminous flavors that are also very forward and open on the balanced, persistent and sappy finish. This should benefit from 4 to 6 years of cellar time.”

Domaine Rene Leclerc Griotte Chambertin 2010 ($149.95) $119 special 4+ cases available
Winery notes-
 “All wines are made ​​with the same passion, so the difference comes from the terroir and grapes. The press is a press of 1951 and we do not use new barrels not hide our fine wines. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration. The wines are soft and fruity with smooth tannins that can age more than 20 years.”

Roche de Bellene Charmes Chambertin 2009 ($199.95) $169 special 10 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points
 “bright, deep red. Lovely high-pitched aromas of raspberry, black cherry, minerals and rose petal, with a whiff of menthol. Juicy, sappy and delicate, with lovely precision and a light touch to the flavors of red fruits, smoky oak and earth. ‘True’ Charmes in a juicy, elegant style.”

Roty Gevrey Chambertin 2010 ($79.95) $69 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 89 points
 “a mild application of oak allows the red currant and wild red berry fruit liqueur aromas to shine. There is impressive richness to the seductively textured and mouth coating flavors that possess fine mid-palate concentration before terminating in a dusty, firm and well-balanced finish. A very good villages by any standard as the sheer persistence is most impressive.”

Roty Gevrey Chambertin Champs-Chenys 2010 ($79.95) $69 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer  89 points
 “medium red.  Redcurrant, violet and a whiff of smoke on the nose.  Supple on entry, then tight in the middle, showing an iron-like nuance to its redcurrant and torrefaction flavors.  Finishes sappy, savory and a bit youthfully dry.  Many of these 2010s lead with their black fruits, but this wine is distinctly red in character.”

Roty Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur Bas 2010 ($99.95) $89 special 7 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points
 “good medium red.  Perfumed aromas of redcurrant, coffee, licorice, earth and flowers.  Plush, supple and broad but also boasts excellent inner-palate tension.  The flavors of redcurrant, raspberry and smoke show a distinct animal quality.  Very long on the aftertaste.  This comes across as richer and more pliant from bottle than it did from barrel a year ago.”

Roty Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys 2010 ($219.95) $189 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points
 “good dark red.  Ripe, vibrant nose offers kirsch, redcurrant, cedar and a whiff of black pepper.  At once silky-sweet and tangy, with lovely inner-mouth energy to the fine-grained red and darker fruit flavors.  Notes of violet and minerals emerge with air.  Finishes broad, lively and long, with harmonious acidity and ripe tannins giving the wine solid structure for aging.  More refined than the 2011 version.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin 2009 ($69.95) $49 special 4 bottles available
Wine Spectator 90 points
 “bright with cherry, plum and spice flavors, this red also has a density to its texture. A light touch of oak tightens this up, and the fruit is as pure as this is long. Best from 2013 through 2020. 35 cases imported”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2009 ($99.95) $79 special 21 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points
 “medium red.  Full-blown aromas of coffee, mocha and game.  Less fruity than the basic village wine but dense, sweet and nicely fresh, with a deep middle and plenty of medicinal reserve.  Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and persistent notes of chocolate, coffee and underbrush.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Vieille Vigne 2011($99.95) $89 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points
 “(finished its malolactic fermentation very late, just before the 2012 harvest; this and all of serafin’s Cru bottlings are aging in 100% new oak):  explosive aromas and flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, smoke and minerals.  Rich, smooth and concentrated, with its fairly full texture leavened by ripe acidity.  But ultimately less harmonious and more backward than the regular village offering, finishing with substantial dusty tannins.  These vines, mostly adjacent to premier Crus in Gevrey, average 60 years of age.  A very serious village wine in the making.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Cazetieres 2007 ($179.95) $136 special 21 bottles available
Burghound 92 points
 “this is a classic Fontenys with a distinct animale element to the ripe red berry, violet and underbrush tones that continue on the earth-inflected, sappy, precise and moderately concentrated flavors that possess real character and excellent power on the impressively long, balanced and textured finish. This has another dimension relative to all of the prior wines.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Cazetieres 2011 ($219.95) $169 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer  91-94 points
 “bright, deep red.  Enticing aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality and musky oak.  Rich, dense and sweet but juicy too, thanks to gripping acidity.  Really sappy premier Cru with captivating inner-mouth tension to the flavors of dark berries and soil-driven minerality.  Finishes strong and long, with the firm tannins nicely supported by the wine’s dense mid-palate fruit.  The crop level here was a healthy 40 hectoliters per hectare, noted serafin.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 2008 ($99.95) $79 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 91 points
 “mild reduction knocks down the nose somewhat so be sure to decant this if you’re going to try a bottle young. Otherwise, there is good freshness and vibrancy to the earthy and slightly animale middle weight flavors that possess a mildly more refined tannic spine and a superbly long finish. I very much like the overall sense of depth and this is very corbeaux as the hallmark sauvage character is quite strong.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 2009 ($139.95) $89 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points
 “juicy, precise aromas of red berries, cherry, spices and mocha, plus a whiff of menthol.  Juicy, fine-grained and densely packed but a bit medicinal today.  For all its richness this communicates an impression of weightlessness.  In fact, this wine is downright balanced and bright.  Firmly tannic and dusty but not dry.  Finishes long and lively.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Corbeaux 2011 ($119.95) $99 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points
 “bright, full medium red.  Raspberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit aromas are complicated by smoky minerality.  Quite Closed in the mouth, with brisk acidity contributing to an impression of firm structure.  Not a silky style, but serious and persistent.  The high level of co2 is no doubt responsible for some of the wine’s present hardness.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Fontenys 2008 ($109.95) $89 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 91 points ‘Outstanding’
 “here the nose is clean and fresh with a discreet touch of wood framing overtly earthy and attractively layered dark berry fruit aromas that possess a hint of animale that can also be discerned on the rich, full and mouth coating flavors that possess obvious volume and punch plus i like the texture of the vibrant finish that offers fine depth and length. The other aspect that i like is all of the Gevrey character this exudes. In a word, lovely.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Fontenys 2009 ($159.95) $109 special 5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points
 “the 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin les Fontenys is layered with dark cherries, flowers, spices and menthol. This is an especially fleshy, textured Gevrey. The showy personality of the vintage comes through, but there is also plenty of underlying structure and vibrancy. I especially like the intensity of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029.”

Serafin Gevrey Chambertin Fontenys 2011 ($159.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Burghound  90-92 points
 “(from vines averaging 55 years of age):  good deep red.  Aromas of blackberry, smoke and minerals, plus a whiff of gibier.  Silky, dense and concentrated, showing a very fine-grained texture to the dark berry flavors.  Still youthfully tight on the back end but this is essentially a feminine style of Gevrey, with a creaminess that comes from small berries.”

Serafin Charmes Chambertin 2009 ($279.95) $219 special  8 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points
 “the 2009 Charmes-Chambertin is striking, even if it is an infant today. Graceful and weightless through to the finish, the 2009 impresses for its balance, freshness and overall sense of structure. This is far from and easygoing 2009. It will require at least a decade to enter the early part of its drinking window. Here, too the integration of fruit and structure is superb. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.”

Taupenot-Merme Charmes Chambertin 2006 ($99.95) $79 special 3 cases available
Burghound 90-93 points
 “this is a clear step up in aromatic purity and elegance, which is saying something as the pruliers is gifted too in this regard with an elegant, pure and complex nose that is both seductive and complete while dissolving into serious yet extremely pretty medium-bodied flavors that also coat the mouth with extract, which confers a real sense of volume and focused muscle. Lovely and very long.”