Some key thoughts on Burgundy from Remington Norman, writing in The World of Fine Wines:
“The more a wine derives its character from the grapes from which is it made, the greater and more reliable its individuality, and the more surely it will be marked by its origin. This latter truth forms the cornerstone of climat and its importance on the Côte d’Or.” & “Many of the Côte’s top domaines now work biodynamically and are convinced of the benefits. These include: increased purity, finer acidity, advanced fruit maturity so earlier harvesting, more regular fermentations requiring less intervention, an altogether more harmonious adaptation of plant to its environment, and most importantly, a more profound and precise expression of climat.”
Domaine D’Ardhuy is based at a unique location at Corgoloin, within their Clos des Langres, at the southern limit to the Cote de Nuits. The Cote de Beaune begins on the other side of their southern wall. It is the belt buckle of the Cote D’Or, and their meticulous red wines really combine the best of each world. Meaty intensity from their Corton’s to the South, and suave lusciousness from their Vougeot holdings to the North. The whites are pure Cote de Beaune.
This domain’s vineyards spread throughout the Côte D’Or are the heritage from current owner Mireille Santiard-d’Ardhuy’s father Gabriel, who founded the estate in 1947. The home base Clos des Langres Monopole was first planted by the monks of Citeaux around the tenth century. Today, the Domaine d’Ardhuy includes fully 6 Grand Cru vineyards and 15 premier cru.
But the lands and legends of Burgundy do not guarantee great wine. It takes an inspired wine-maker too, and that brings our story to Ardhuy’s ‘regisseur’ Carel Voorhuis. He is Dutch by birth, his parents produce wines in France’s Savoie and, before d’Ardhuy Carel spent time making wine with BRL Hardy in the Yarra Valley of Australia as well as with a negociant in the south of France. But he is no interloper, he has a diploma in enology from Dijon and did further studies at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune. As estate manager and vigneron for the past decade he led Ardhuy in a transition through organic viticulture to what has now become a full conversion to biodynamic practices. The now 39 year old Voorhuis was long ago recognized as a bright light among a cluster of young and bright Burgundy winemakers now recognized as the ‘Dijon School’; which is not a school but a movement.
About 1% of Burgundy lovers have a great cellar filled with the likes of wines from Christophe Roumier and Frederic Esmonin. The other 99% wish that they had such a cellar. But most of such cellars were not acquired with the present day price of great fame included in their cost. The key is to recognize the artist before the marketplace clamors for the art. Voohuis and his d’Ardhuy wines are substantially proven, but not yet fully recognized. That’s a good ‘terroir’ to shop for your Burgundy.
D’Ardhuy Puligny Montrachet Sous Puits 2010 ($79.95) $69 special
D’Ardhuy Bourgogne Rouge 2009 ($18.95) $14 special
D’Ardhuy Savigny les Beaune Narbantons 2010 ($44.95) $36 special
D’Ardhuy Savigny les Beaune Aux Clous 2009 ($37.95) $31.90 special
D’Ardhuy Savigny les Beaune Aux Clous 2010 ($37.95) $28 special
D’Ardhuy Clos de Langres 2009 ($44.95) $36 special
D’Ardhuy Clos de Langres 2010 ($49.95) $38 special
D’Ardhuy Corton Clos du Roi 2010 ($89.95) $79 special
D’Ardhuy Corton Hautes Mourottes 2009 ($99.95) $69 special
D’Ardhuy Corton Pougets 2010 ($99.95) $69 special
D’Ardhuy Clos de Vougeot 2006 ($179.95) $149 special
D’ardhuy Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($189.95) $149 special
D’Ardhuy Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($149.95) $119 special