In Today’s Newsletter:
Collotte and the Power of Value Burgundy
Cayuse Cabernet Comes Calling
Don’t Sleep on Jean-Marc Pillot’s Chassagne
Borgogno Barolo Now on the March Clearance Sale
New Arrivals Including:
Paul Hobbs, Anakota, Clos Ste. Magdeleine and More!
Il Poggione Brunello: A 2012 Mega-Deal
Collotte: Star of Marsannay
One of the Best Values in Burgundy
“Collotte remains one of the most under the radar growers in Marsannay. At their best, these wines are striking for their purity of fruit and overall sense of harmony.” –Antonio Galloni
We’ve carried the wines from Phillipe Collotte for a few years now and each release reminds us of both what a star he is and how good the wines from Marsannay and Fixin can be. These are stunning values from Burgundy, made from “humble” terroir, but old vines, and with a steadied hand. Additionally, the newly released 2015’s show why great vintages seem to favor the lower end of the spectrum most.
Capital “G” Great Vintages, like 2015, are wonderful times to go exploring the less famous villages of Burgundy. Historically, the vineyard (and village) classifications have been based on consistent ripeness and power, as well as complexity, so in a warm year the “lesser” sites often show much more dramatic improvement over their baseline quality than a “great” vineyard will. Collottes’ 2015 are perfect examples of this—much better than you’d expect from the cru’s involved.
We don’t mean to suggest that Phillippe Collotte is some hack winemaker who got lucky in 2015, either. He’s a serious talent with old vines and a very attentive touch in the cellar. These are wines that over deliver in every vintage (witness his string of 92 point scores for the 2014’s…) but are on another plane this year. We expect these to be fully sold out by the time scores roll in, so if you enjoyed the ‘14’s or think these might be up your alley, just click here to buy the wines on our website.
Domaine Collotte Fixin, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Importer Note “The Fixin is from two parcels of Village Fixin both both with eastern exposition on calcareous clay soil. Aged in oak, 25% new, to round the tannins.”
Importer Note “The [Fixin] Crais de Chene is from 40+ year old vines on clay-limestone soil. The vines face east to gather the sweet morning sun. Due to the old age of the vines, the grapes are very small and concentrated with flavor. Completely destemmed, the wine is aged in barrel, 30% new, for 12 months.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Importer Note “The Marsannay Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is assembled from five different terroirs of the appellation: “Combereau”, “Favières”, ” Grasses Têtes “, ” Boivin “and “Récilles” on vines of about 50 years old. Completely destemmed, the wine is fermented and aged in tank.”
Importer Note “The Marsannay Combereau is from the village of Couchey. The 50+ year old vines and shallow soil of crinoidal limestone on bedrock produces very ripe and healthy grapes. Aged in oak, 25% new, to round the tannins. The Combereau Marsannay is a wine with strong and complex aromatics with well-balanced tannin potential.”
Importer Note “The Marsannay Champsalomon is from the village of Couchey. The 40+ year old vines are on the marl soil of the Ostrea Acuminata.”
Importer Note “The Marsannay Boivins is lieu-dit in Marsannay Villages, on vines over 40 years and varying limestone soil. Aged in oak, 25% new, to round the tannins.”
The Carefully Crafted Cabernet of Cayuse
Cayuse rarely needs much of an introduction. The wines are high-scoring and so sought after that the waiting list to buy them is approaching a decade long. That said, most people think of Cayuse as a producer of Syrah, however their Cabernet stands up with any in the world. We just received a small parcel of their “Widowmaker” and “Camaspelo” bottlings, both Cabernet based and the wines deserve special attention. Widowmaker is the varietally labeled Cabernet and is a hybrid of new and old world styles (like the Syrah, in that respect). It’s big and massive, but with enough earth and structure to keep it balanced. The Camaspelo is Christophe’s Left Bank inspired blend of Cabernet and a small amount of Merlot (in California this can, and probably would, be labeled just as Cabernet Sauvignon). The touch of Merlot gives it a bit more approachability and charm, though it should age beautifully for the next decade plus. As with all the Cayuse wines, quantities are limited and orders will be processed first-come, first-served. Just click here to see these wines on our website and place an order.
Cayuse Vineyards Camaspelo, Walla Walla Valley 2012 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 97 points “A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, the 2012 Camaspelo is more refined and elegant than the Lovers release, showing a seamless, elegant profile to go with lots of dark fruits, savory herbs, graphite and hints of flowers. While the nose is terrific, the palate is where this really shines and it’s full-bodied, concentrated and ultra-pure, with lots of fine tannin that keep the finish going. It should be at it’s best from 2018-2032+.”
Cayuse Vineyards ‘Widowmaker’ En Chamberlin Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2013 750ML ($169.95) $149 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 95 points “Lastly, the 2013 Widowmaker is one of the richest, more concentrated 2013s in the lineup. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 30-40% new puncheons, this full-bodied beauty has fabulous Cabernet character and offers the essence of black cherry and crème de cassis fruits, smoked earth, and chocolate aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, seamless and elegant, give bottles 4-5 years of cellaring and enjoy over the following 10-15 years.”
Wine Advocate 99 points “Getting a big “Wow!” from me, the 212-case 2014 The Widowmaker sports a deep, inky color (darker than any current vintage) to go with a masculine, Chateau Latour-like bouquet of blackcurrants, graphite, tobacco leaf and cedar. Rich, full-bodied, decadent and powerful, with ripe and polished tannin, it’s a sensational Bordeaux blend from one of Washington’s greats! Bravo.”(But wait, there’s more!) To see all 12 of the Cayuse wines we have in stock right now, just click here to see the list on our website.
Jean-Marc PillotDon’t Sleep on These Fabulous Wines
We get it. White Burgundy can be expensive—and great wines especially so. The wines of Jean-Marc Pillot stand out in that field for being both excellent examples of Chassagne-Montrachet and also for excellent deals for their quality. His wines are better than most bottlings that are 20-30% more expensive—the only catch is that we can only get a few cases of each bottling (and way less than that for the Grand Crus).
Jean-Marc Pillot is one of our favorite producers of both red and white Chassagne-Montrachet and we look forward to our allocation of his wines every year. The wines are very classically made, with intense minerality framed by gentle fruit. Oak use is tasteful and the wines always show the personalities of their terroirs in spades. The wines are fantastic wines to lay down and whenever we try older examples we’re incredibly impressed.
We sold a lot of these on pre-sale, so the quantities below are what’s left. We expect these wines to move quickly, so if they look intriguing to you, act now to secure the wines you want. You can view the wines on our website, just click here, or give us a call (503-223-6002) or email (just hit reply) to order.
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2015 750ML ($499.95) $399 special, 1 bottle left
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 93-95 points “(Pillot used the 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet barrel for this wine, the first time he has made this cuvée without new oak): Bright pale yellow. Rather hermetic nose suggests full ripeness and an exotic hint of banana. A plush expression of this stony site, conveying compelling sweetness but almost Riesling-like definition and grip to the flavors of pineapple, fresh apricot, gunflint and rose petal. Finishes with outstanding slow-building length. This is 13.2% natural alcohol, from grapes picked on September 7.”
Burghound 92-95 points “Don’t miss! A more elegant nose merges notes of very pretty and ripe yet attractively cool aromas of spice, acacia blossom, pear liqueur and all-but invisible wood. The racy, intense and mineral-driven broad-shouldered flavors are at once succulent and ultra-refined, all wrapped in a strikingly persistent and well-balanced finish. This is a notably big but sophisticated effort that should drink well young but amply repay extended cellaring if desired.”
The next best price is $425.95
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92-94 points “(13.2%; this fruit comes from Domaine Dublere, with owner Blair Pethel having harvested on September 8): Bright yellow. Totally different on the nose than any of the foregoing 2015s in this cellar, displaying pungent aromas of chalk, menthol, lavender and wild herbs. The sweetness of its brisk yellow fruit flavors is countered by salty minerality and strong dusty extract, as well as a bit of unabsorbed CO2. A lovely mineral expression but not austere. Finishes with terrific crushed-stone lift.”
Burghound 90-93 points “Background notes of wood easily allow the aromas of petrol, green apple, floral and pear liqueur. The rich, full-bodied, powerful and overtly muscular flavors possess outstanding concentration, indeed the mouth feel is almost thick, before culminating in a sappy and lingering finish. This is an atypical Corton-Charlemagne but it is certainly bold and impressive.”Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Les Baudines, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 11 bottles left
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 91+ points “Bright yellow. Tight aromas of crushed rock and flowers are complicated by sexy red fruit suggestions of strawberry and redcurrant. At once thick and dry–in fact almost bitter-edged–displaying excellent density and richness but coming across as a bit youthfully compressed. Finishes quite firm-edged, with a metallic flinty quality. Pillot loves this wine but I found myself wanting a bit more fruit.”
Burghound 88-91 points “A discreet application of wood frames a more elegant nose that mingles notes of white flowers, lemon zest, apple and a touch of spice. The succulent and obviously mineral-inflected flavors possess good energy but notably less complexity and persistence on the slightly warm and citrusy finish. This forward effort should drink well early but I didn’t find it to be at its usual level.”
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Subtle aromas of orange zest and lemon lifted by calcaire minerality. Distinctly silky and feminine in texture, displaying lovely finesse and energy for the year in spine of what Pillot describes as relatively low acidity (about 4 grams per liter). Finishes very long and thick, with a repeating chalky quality.”
Burghound 91-93 points “Sweet spot outstanding. A beautifully if subtly layered nose flashes really lovely complexity with its pure array of spiced pear, lavender, spice and citrus wisps. The equally pure and refined middle weight flavors possess an almost pungent minerality while offering fine depth and sneaky good length.”Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Les Chenevottes, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 6 bottles left
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 91-93 points “Bright pale yellow. Lovely perfumed lift to the delineated aromas of citrus fruits and white flowers. Penetrating, energetic wine with a strong impression of salinity and dusty extract. The crop level here was 45 hectoliters per hectare but this wine, from a 1949 planting, is wonderfully plush and silky without any weightiness, conveying a tactile impression of concentration. Finishes lemon-limey and long.”
Burghound 90-93 points “From vines planted in 1949 in Chenevottes proper. Outstanding. Here the nose is similar to that of the Vergers but with more prominent floral nuances. There is both more size and weight but also a slightly sleeker mouth feel to the medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a powerful but refined finish. Good stuff.”Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Morgeot Les Fairendes, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 24 bottles left
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 90-93 points “(from vines picked on September 3; 4.3 grams per liter acidity): Bright yellow. Lovely lift for Morgeot: white flowers, white peach and sexy oak tones. Classic sweet/sappy Morgeot, beginning with silky stone fruits, then turning much more minerally on the back half, finishing pure, brisk and long. Shows the classic, balanced side of 2015.”
Burghound 90-93 points “Outstanding. Notes of petrol, citrus, resin and essence of pear precede full-bodied and dense if slightly less refined flavors that possess a palate coating texture that carries over to the impressively complex and highly persistent finish. This is opulent but well-balanced and should drink well both young and with 6 to 8 years of cellar time.”Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Les Vergers, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 17 bottles left
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 91-93 points “Bright pale yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of yellow peach and white pepper show a slightly candied quality but also very good lift. Plush, peppery and broad; quite dry and mineral-driven but not austere. Very horizontal in the mouth. Finishes classically dry and energetic, with terrific mineral persistence.”
Burghound 90-92 points “From 50+ year old vines in Vergers proper. A pungent nose combines notes of resin, various white orchard fruit and floral aromas that are trimmed in hints of wood and matchstick. The succulent and seductively textured medium weight flavors also possess plenty of dry extract, all wrapped in a citrus-tinged finish that offers a bit more depth and length. Worth a look.”
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Montagny Les Gouresses 1er Cru 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 24 bottles left
Burghound 88-91 points “From 100+ year old vines. Notes of petrol, citrus, ripe orchard fruit and a hint of lychee nut give way to bigger, richer and more concentrated medium-bodied flavors that also exhibit a subtle minerality that carries over to the vibrant, clean and agreeably dry finish. This should repay a few years of cellaring if desired.”
Borgogno’s Liste—One of the Best in BaroloNow More Affordable
New to the March Sale
Borgogno is one of the most distinguished names in Barolo history, with a history that goes back to 1761, but the wines they’re making today are probably the best in the history of the estate. Oscar Farinetti, who purchased the winery in 2007, is a fanatic when it comes to quality and the wines very much reflect that. They’re still made in a traditional fashion, but with more attention to detail, care and better farming, the result? Incredible Barolo that’s priced far below what it should be and needs to be in your cellar.
We’ve just added Borgogno’s 2008 Liste to our March Clearance Sale, a wine that’s the flagship for the estate. Antonio Galloni rates the vineyard as “Outstanding” saying that Liste is “all about power and virility….Liste shows the darker side of Barolo, with a profile that typically includes dark fruit and along with smoke, tar, licorice and earthy flavors.” He lists the Borgogno bottling as the reference point bottling from the vineyard and we agree. The Borgogno Liste, and this 2008 in particular, is exceptional and a bottle of Barolo that any serious Piemonte drinker should own.
For a wine (like this) that requires bottle age, finding examples that are pre-cellared can be tough—which makes this an incredible opportunity. This wine will live for many more decades but has finally begun shedding its youthful tannins. That the price is *lower* than it was a few years ago just makes it a better deal. We have less than three cases left, so if you want some, act quickly—when it sells out, we won’t be able to get any more of the 2008.
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Vigna Liste, Barolo DOCG 2008 750ML ($119.95) Was $89, Now just $79!
James Suckling 94 points “Wonderful aromas of balsamic, plum, grilled meat and spices. Full body, with round and chewy tannins. Excellent depth of fruit. The 2008 vintage shows that extra complexity to the 2009 in general. Better in 2015.”
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “Cool veins of bracing minerality form the backbone in Borgogno’s 2008 Barolo Liste. Today, the 2008 is virtually impenetrable, as the vintage and the site have combined to produce a big, powerful Barolo that will require considerable cellaring before it is ready to show all its cards. Still, there is a lot to like here, especially for those who can be patient. Tar, smoke, incense and scorched earth all add gravitas on the close, but with more time in the glass some of the sweeter notes begin to emerge. The 2008 Liste is shaping up to be magnificent.” AG
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 92+ points “Medium red. Lovely lift to the aromas of redcurrant, marzipan and rose petal. Sappy, sweet and concentrated; a step up in tangy, saline intensity and inner-mouth tension from the Fossati. Wonderfully silky and lush in texture but a bit youthfully unforthcoming today. Delivers terrific verve and energy to its red berry and floral flavors. Finishes with sweeter tannins than the Fossati, an enticing light touch and excellent length and life. This should evolve gracefully in bottle for 20 years or more.”
Now it’s even lower!
If you want to see the Borgogno Liste and all of the other wines on the March Clearance Sale, just click here to head straight to the list on our website!Also, check out these other highlights from the sale:
Vieux Chateau Mazerat, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($119.95) Was $89, Now just $75!
Robert Parker 95+ points “This is one of the tightest, most backward wines in the Jonathan Malthus portfolio. The grapes come from an old-vine parcel near Angelus and Beausejour-Duffau, and the final product is a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. Again displaying plenty of minerality, which seems to be a prevailing theme throughout the 2010s from Malthus, the 2010 Vieux Chateau Mazerat is full-bodied, with an abundance of floral notes as well as black currant and blackberry fruit. Impressively endowed and built like a skyscraper, this full-bodied wine needs a good 7-8 years of cellaring and should keep for 25-30 years. Interestingly, the vines were planted in 1947.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Campitello is a very pretty wine, especially for the vintage. Mid-weight and translucent in style, the 2012 captures the essence of Radda, with sweet, floral aromatics, chiseled fruit and lovely energy. Red berry, spice, tobacco, cedar and rose petal all open up in the glass. A hint of oak comes through on the finish, but otherwise this is a classic-feeling Riserva that will appeal to readers with more traditionally leaning palates. The Campitello emerges from the estate’s oldest vineyard.”
The next best price is $79.99
Wine Spectator 93 points “Bright and pure, with delightful pear, green almond and green plum notes laced with a fennel streak, ending with finely beaded acidity and a mineral echo through the finish. Very refined. Drink now through 2027.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “Huet’s 2016 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec is clear, pure, fine and fresh on the chalky-mineral, delicately fruity nose. Medium-bodied, round and fruity with good mineral grip and tension but also a charming sweet creaminess, the 2016 is a very elegant and pretty complex Chenin Blanc from the chalky soils of the Clos de Bourg. The salty, persistent finish is aromatic, lush and well structured, indicating a certain sweetness, good grip and very promising aging potential. Tasted February 2018.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
New Arrivals: California
Winery note “Color: Pale green straw, brilliant. Aroma: Grapefruit, lychee, kiwi, lime, hint of grass. Flavor: Juicy palate of white peaches, and meyer lemon. Texture: Full and round, slate and freshness with a balanced finish.”
The next best price is $22
Winery note “White platinum in hue, with vibrant aromatics of lemon zest, grapefruit and white jasmine, our Sonoma County sauvignon blanc evokes the scents of springtime. This energetic nose is followed by a palate lush with juicy peach, fresh pomelo, and deftly balanced by wet stone-like minerality. Crisp, crunchy acidity enlivens the lengthy finish, leaving the palate feeling pure and refreshed.”
The next best price is $19.99
Robert Parker 98 points “The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Dakota displays more blackberry, blueberry and graphite, with some flowers such as violets, notes of pen ink, a full-bodied, concentrated, succulent and fleshy mouthfeel, and a long, long finish. This is another 25- to 30-year wine.”
Robert Parker 93+ points “The 2014s are 30-year wines, even in such a supple, easygoing and charming vintage. The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana has an opaque purple color, a beautiful nose of graphite, creosote, incense, blackberry and licorice, and maybe a touch of charcoal and earth. The tannins are soft, and there is enormous fruit as well as a deep, full-bodied mouthfeel and some coffee in the finish. It should drink well for 25-30 years.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Anakota’s 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Helena Montana has turned out beautifully. Dark, sumptuous and beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2014 exudes richness. Red cherry jam, raspberry, mint and licorice abound. Flamboyant and opulent, with soft contours and good structure, the 2014 hits all the right notes.”
Case-12 Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Rose, Provence 2016 750ML ($459.95) $299 special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Grapelive 94 points “One of Provence’s most sought after producers, Clos Sainte Magdeleine crafts mostly Cassis Blanc (a blend of Marsanne, Ugni Blanc and Clairette mostly with a touch of Bourboulenc). In recent years they have been getting lots of attention for their Rose, which is a modern Provence blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 20% Mourvèdre, a rival to the more famous pinks of Bandol and Domaine Tempier. Like Tempier, Clos Sainte Magdeleine is organic and very limited. The grapes come off the region’s limestone and clay soils with the red grape vines being between 10 and 40 years old. [The vines are] close to the sea, so there is the saline and cool freshness the Mediterranean brings along with a ripe warm of this sunny South of France place. The Sack-Zafiropulos family has been making wine here for four generations, with Jonathan Sack now producing the wines in the beautiful awe inspiring little coastal port village (Cassis). The wines are a huge hit with those that want authentic crisp wines of character and quality, and they pair well with the local fish based cuisine. While a hit here in the states, largely because of [importer Kermit Lynch]’s tireless promotion of the region’s wines, these wines grab the attention of well-to-do travelers that adventure to Cassis and Marseille. This 2016 is just hitting its stride now. It’s brilliant and intense with a regal sense of austerity and restraint with dust strawberry, earthy watermelon and tart sour cherry along with a peppery/flinty spice, wet stones and saline, which gets your saliva glands pumping along. This is light and brisk, but with a sense of vinous/sensual texture while remaining filled with fresh charm. It’s absolutely perfection in a dry pink. This is a terroir-driven wine of distinction and purity that will drink for a few years.”
The average price is $36
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 90-92 points “Light-medium yellow. A step up in aromatic complexity from the rest of the Louis Michel premier crus, but with its shy fruit element currently overshadowed by smoky oyster-shell minerality. Similarly, the wine’s stone and citrus fruit flavors are dominated in the early going by rich, saline, rocky minerality. This structured wine finishes precise, shapely, firm and long. Excellent potential here, but this will need cellaring.”
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Josh Raynolds-Vinous 90 points “Deep red-ruby. Underbrush, tar and licorice dominate the red fruit aromas and flavors. A hint of shoepolish emerges on the long tactile and slightly warm finish. This big wine has plenty of personality but I would have liked a little more grace. (15% alcohol)”
Ian D’agata-Vinous 91+ points “Bright dark red. Camphor and herbs complicate red cherry and berries on the nose. Dense and youthfully chewy with brooding flavors of red fruit and spicy herbs. Finishes long and savory with a tactile mouthfeel. This is deeper than the regular (not made from ungrafted vines) Rosso, but is also currently less well delineated. (12.5% alcohol)”
2012 Il Poggione BrunelloGreat Vintage, Even Better Pricing
Il Poggione is one of the most universally beloved producers of Brunello. No matter your preference, modern or traditional, richer or more austere, there’s something not only to enjoy about the Poggione wines, but also to find compelling. It’s a rare spot to be in—but the quality of the wines, combined with the prices, makes them a favorite of ours. The wines are probably the least expensive, collectible-quality Brunello out there.We just secured a set of wine, arriving in June, from the 2012 vintage—an excellent year for Brunello. The 2012 Il Poggione is no exception and the wine is gorgeous, from a warm vintage but with the freshness and elegance you expect from Il Poggione. We think this will be a perfect wine to drink young while you wait for your more structured years (2010, 2006) to age, but it will definitely continue to improve as it sits, as well. This is one to load up on, so while the wine is pre-arrival, we’ve got some particularly sharp Case-6 and Case-12 pricing.
Arriving ETA June:
Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($89.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($519.95) $336 pre-arrival special (that’s only $56/bottle!)
Case-12 Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($959.95) $636 pre-arrival special (that’s only $53/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 95+ points “Il Poggione is a Brunello superstar and a vintage like this reveals every reason why that affirmation is true. From the second the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino pours into the glass, you know you are in for something special. The wine is darkly saturated and rich in appearance. Absent are those slightly amber or browning hues you often get with Sangiovese in a hot vintage. Nor does the wine show flat or tired characteristics. Instead, the quality of fruit is vibrant and rich. This is a healthy, generous and exuberant Brunello with dark density and succulent fruit flavors that are followed by integrated spice and tobacco. The balance is impressive and one thing you get here is fresh acidity. This is not to be underestimated, because the acidity quota in the 2012 vintage across the appellation is not as high or evident as usual. This is one of the year’s best Brunellos.”