Chandon de Briailles Subscriber Special
’95 Monte Bello, ’15 Opus One: Two California Legends
“Polishing a Rustic Diamond” – Wine Spectator on Larkmead
2016 Chateauneuf from Three Masters
One Week from Aldo Conterno’s 2009s
A Coche-Dury Grand Cru
Rare Vintage Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo
Philip Togni – Classic Napa Unchanged
Our Favorite Durand Since Simon Le Bon
The Classic Burgundy of Chandon de Briailles
Special Deals on Special Burgundy
Subscriber Special ends Monday, October 15th at 11:59PM PT
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Only twelve bottles available
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML (149.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91-93 points “This too is quite reduced yet from barely perceptible fruit seems fresh. As is usually the case there is slightly finer mouth feel to the broad-shouldered flavors that also possess fine mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a firmly structured but not hard finish. This is youthfully austere with just a hint of rusticity and this too will definitely require patience.”
Wine Spectator 91 points “This is spicy, with sandalwood, vanilla, green olive and wild berry flavors building from start to finish. Balanced in a lean, tightly wound style, presenting a lingering, spicy aftertaste. Best from 2018 through 2032. 334 cases made.”
The next best price is $100
The average price is $117
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2014 750ML ($149.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “This needs air to reveal the deep cherry and raspberry flavors. Pure, with mineral and earth details adding grace notes. Though balanced, this will require time for the structure and flavors to meld. Fine length. Best from 2020 through 2035. 367 cases made.”
Burghound 93 points “Reduction presently dominates the nose and I would again strongly suggest decanting this first if you’re going to sample a bottle before 2 to 3 years of age. On the palate there is a seductive texture to the velvety, complex and attractively mineral-inflected medium weight plus flavors that possess a fine sense of balance and deliver excellent finishing persistence along with impressive depth. This too is textbook.”
The next best price is $99.97
The average price is $119
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2015 750ML ($199.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Burghound 92-95 points “Sweet Spot. A markedly ripe yet elegant nose that consists of rose petal, plum liqueur, lilac, spice and wet stone aromas is trimmed in enough wood to notice. The very rich, intense and wonderfully vibrant big-bodied flavors evidence obvious minerality on the mouth coating and impressively long finish. This is a big and refined effort that is very much built-to-age so patience required.”
The next best price is $140
The average price is $169
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Marechaudes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($119.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 93 points “All the elements are here in this young red. The raspberry and cherry flavors are pure, framed by subtle oak spice notes and supported by a firm structure. The finish echoes fruit and spice details despite closing up a little. Best from 2019 through 2032. 98 cases made.”
Burghound 90-93 points “Reduction. Here the big-bodied flavors are both bigger and richer with fine volume and density before terminating in a velvety, palate coating and muscular finish. This is old school in style but not at all hard or even especially rustic though note well that patience will be required.”
The next best price is $107
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Marechaudes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2014 750ML ($119.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “A lean, racy red, featuring cherry, strawberry, spice and mineral flavors. Very compact and linear, this is nonetheless persistent and long on the aftertaste. Coiled and youthful, this will need time to unwind. Best from 2020 through 2032. 122 cases made.”
Burghound 90-93 points “Here too there is enough reduction present to prevent an examination of the nose but I did note that floral elements are evident. There is outstanding volume and good phenolic maturity to the round, velvety and overtly powerful middle weight plus flavors that possess a firm core of tannins on the mouth coating, dusty and impressively persistent finish. This is a serious Corton where patience will also be required.”
The next best price is $90
The average price is $103
Only twelve bottles available
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Marechaudes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2015 750ML ($199.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Though concentrated, this is also lean and chewy, with big, dusty tannins framing blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good acidity keeps this focused, though this will need some time for the structure to resolve. Fine length. Best from 2022 through 2036. 15 cases imported.”
Burghound 91-94 points “This too manages to be at once very ripe but attractively fresh with its liqueur-like aromas of dark currant, plum, lilac and warm earth. The powerful yet sleek medium weight plus flavors brim with dry extract thanks to the concentrated amount of sappy dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the hugely long finale. This is less rustic than it usually is though with that said, it’s less refined than its two big boy stablemates.”
The next best price is $135.99
The average price is $141
Subscriber Special ends Monday, October 15th at 11:59PM PT
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Featured New Arrivals
Two California Legends
’95 Monte Bello and ’15 Opus One
Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains 1995 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “[Tasted in July 2016] The 1995 Monte Bello is powerful, bright and incisive. At twenty years of age, the 1995 retains gorgeous, refreshing acidity that gives the wine lift and energy. The 1995 is a brooding Monte Bello, with darker tonalities of fruit and accompanying notes of smoke, licorice, spice, menthol, tobacco and cedar. Although the 1995 is striking today, it could also use more time in bottle, as it remains a touch compact and austere, especially next to the 2012 and 2002 tasted alongside it. Readers who enjoy cool, mineral and savory inflected Cabernets will adore the 1995, a wine that will drink well for another 20 years. Vineyard manager David Gates describes 1995 as a cool, relaxed, late ripening season that yielded small berries with elevated tannins. A second recent bottle was a bit more open and ample. Either way, the 1995 Monte Bello is a remarkably vivid, expressive wine that has a long life ahead of it.”
James Suckling 97 points “[Tasted in 2012] Amazing flowers and lavender and blackberries. Love the nose. Tobacco and cigar box. Full-bodied, with firm and round tannins. Then there’s rosemary and berry on the finish. Give it time.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 95 points “[Tasted in 2018] The product of a late-October harvest, the 1995 vintage was Eric Baugher’s first vintage as Ridge’s winemaker alongside Paul Draper, and I remember him telling me in 2012 that he was afraid extraction had been pushed too far and that the wine might always be somewhat monolithic. In the last three years, however, the 1995 Monte Bello has began to shed some of its formidable tannins, and it’s clear that those fears were unfounded. The nose offers up rich aromas of cassis and red plums that mingle with nuances of sweet, loamy soil, cigar box and subtle leather. On the palate, the 1995 is full-bodied, deep and super concentrated, with its powerful core of fruit framed by melting tannins and underpinned by tangy acids, concluding with a long and distinctly stony finish. Today, the 1995 ranks as one of the highlights of the decade. Think of it as a somewhat more rustic cousin of the 2005. It’s a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc that attained 12.5% natural alcohol.”
Opus One, Napa Valley 2015 750ML ($369.95) $328 special
James Suckling 98 points “Purity and brilliance on the nose with so much currant and flower character. Roses, currant bush and fresh leaves, too. Brightness is the word that comes to mind. Full-bodied and broad-shouldered. Juicy and so gorgeous now. Balance is so wonderful here. All about harmonious fruit and tannin balance. I like it slightly better than the excellent 2014. 81% cabernet sauvignon, 4% petit verdot, 7% cabernet franc, 6% merlot and 2% malbec. Drink or hold. (7/2018)”
Wine Advocate 97+ points “Composed of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot and 2% Malbec, Opus One’s 2015 Proprietary Red Wine is truly an iron fist in a velvet glove, delivering a powerhouse of flavors and structure with a seductively plush texture. It opens with a deep garnet-purple color and wonderfully spicy notes of cinnamon stick, cloves and fenugreek with a core of cherry preserves, redcurrant jelly, blackberry pie and warm plums plus hints of camphor, lavender and cigar box. Full-bodied, rich and bold in the mouth, it fills the palate with exotic spice-laced black and red fruits, framed by firm, beautifully ripe, grainy tannins and great freshness, finishing with epic persistence. Although it is already approachable, allow it another 3-5 years in bottle for its myriad of subtle accents to fully blossom and then drink it over the next 30+ years.”
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2015 Opus One is just as fabulous from bottle as it was from barrel. Dark, sumptuous and voluptuous in the glass, with no hard edges, the 2015 captures all the essence of the vintage while retaining a good bit of aromatic freshness. At this stage, the new oak is still a bit prominent, but that should not be an issue as the wine ages. There is more than enough depth for the 2015 to develop positively for 20-25 years, perhaps more. Just bottled a month prior to this tasting, the 2015 is naturally a bit more reticent than it has been in the past. Winemaker Michael Silacci add that the 2015 will, in his view, follow a similar trajectory to the 2008, which he later opened for the sake of comparison. In my view, the 2015 will always be more extroverted, although it does need time to be at its most expressive. The blend is 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec. 96+ (AG)”
Wine Spectator on Larkmead:
“Polishing a Rustic Diamond”
The Larkmead estate has stood the test of time, and its wines are shining ever brighter…
“Down on the valley floor below, situated in the narrow strip between Spring and Howell mountains, sits the 150-acre property of Larkmead. It mirrors Diamond Creek in its uniqueness: Three plots at the heart of the estate, named Dr. Olmo, Solari and The Lark, are situated on three distinct soil types—Cortina dark gravel/loam, Pleasanton clay and sandier Bale gravel, respectively. You can stand at a nexus point of the three, taking just a few steps each direction before touching the different soils. The wines are equally distinct. And eye-opening…
“Dan Petroski, 45, now handles the winemaking. He joined in 2006 as an intern (with no formal winemaking background; Petroski was a journalist before that), working alongside winemaker Andy Smith, who left for DuMol in 2012. During their time together, they started to dial back on toasty oak. And since being elevated to winemaker following Smith’s departure, he’s tried to dial back a bit more on extraction to manage the rustic tannins the site usually gives its wines….
“It’s an interesting puzzle at Larkmead, but with a new approach from Petroski, the pieces seem to be fitting now, even as they are kept separate. And Petroski seems highly enthused at the prospects of reorienting this historic property that has been family-owned since 1948.
“‘André Tchelistcheff once said the four greatest estates in Napa are Inglenook, Beringer, BV and Larkmead ‘ he says, a smile growing across his face.” –
James MolesworthIn Stock Now:
Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2014 750ML ($149.95) $119 special
Robert Parker 93 points “The 2014 “White Label” red wines include the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa, which is a beauty. An elegant, Pauillac-style wine with notes of chocolate, cedar wood, fruitcake, unsmoked cigar tobacco and underbrush, it is dense, full-bodied and rich. It is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot aged 19 months in 75% new French oak. There are 2,705 cases of this wine, which finished at 14.7% natural alcohol. It should drink well for 20-25 years, but there’s no reason to defer your gratification.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Larkmead’s 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon is a very pretty, understated wine. Bright red stone fruit, floral notes and spice give the 2014 its refreshing, vibrant personality. The fruit is nicely pushed forward, but the 2014 is light on its feet and gracious, especially for a Calistoga Cabernet. Even so, this is a relatively laid-back style built on finesse more than power.”
Larkmead Vineyards Dr. Olmo, Napa Valley 2014 750ML ($199.95) $169 special
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The “Black Label” wines include the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Olmo, which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the clone of Cabernet that is also called Eisele. This wine spent 20 months in 62% new French oak. A magnificent wine by any standard of measurement, with notes of scorched earth, lead pencil shavings, charcoal embers, and blackberry and cassis fruit, this dense purple wine has undeniable minerality, a beautiful, full-bodied texture and a voluptuous finish. Drink it over the next 25 years.”
Antonio Galloni 92-95 points “The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Dr. Olmo is holding back quite a bit of its potential. Dark cherry, smoke, licorice, tar and menthol give the Dr. Olmo much of its brooding personality. The tannins are quite firm, but that should be less of an issue as the wine won’t be released for about a year.”
Larkmead Vineyards Firebelle Red, Napa Valley 2014 750ML ($179.95) $149 special
Robert Parker 94 points “A blend of 72% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2014 Firebelle finished at 14.9% alcohol. It is a beautifully rich, chocolaty wine with notes of savory spices, black cherries and mulberries, some fudge and coffee bean. It has medium to full body, outstanding purity, concentration and length. It was aged in 66% new French oak for 19 months prior to bottling. Drink it over the next 15-20 years.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2014 Firebelle, Larkmead’s Merlot-based wine, is terrific. Succulent black cherry, lavender, mint and dark spices infuse this pliant, creamy wine. Expressive savory and mineral-infused notes punctuate the finish. The tannins need time to soften, but there is plenty to like and look forward to.”
2016 Chateauneuf du Pape
Three Masters, Four Bottlings
All Exceptional
“If exuberant ripe fruit, harmonious tannins and an overall impression of generosity and lushness are what you’re after in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, then 2016 has plenty to offer. But the best wines also display real energy, making this a standout vintage.
“References to other great years such as 2010 and 2001 abounded during my visits with producers in mid-April, and while I concur with the comparison to 2001, the ‘16s show more flesh, more abundant fruitiness and rounder tannins than the 2010s did at a similar stage. At the same time, I believe that the wines will often be superior to those from recent hot years like 2009, 2007 and 2003 because of their greater freshness. The mostly higher levels of acidity displayed by the ‘16s are largely due to cool nights throughout the growing season and the harvest. That said, as a group these are undeniably powerful, fruit-driven wines, sometimes flamboyantly so. ”
–Josh Raynolds, VinousA year ago, the thought that a vintage might top 2015 in the Southern Rhone would be unthinkable. Yet here we are, excited about the arrival of the 2016’s with even more fervor. The 2016’s combine all the power from ’15 with a real sense of energy and vitality that makes them unique among recent years. This is the best Chateauneuf vintage since…2001? That’s saying something in a region that’s had a string of success.
A tranche of Chateauneuf just landed from three of our favorite producers, all of whom hew to a fairly traditional style. It’s exciting to offer them to you, especially at these prices, as the vintage seemed to favor this style of wine especially. These are perfect fall and winter reds to drink now but will also age beautifully over the next decade.
Just Arrived:
Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2016 750ML ($89.95) $59 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94-96 points “Deep bright-rimmed red. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes ripe fruits, incense and exotic spices, and a sexy floral pastille nuance builds in the glass. Sappy, broad and expansive on the palate, offering sweet raspberry preserve, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of juicy acidity. Closes on a gently tannic note, displaying superb clarity and spicy thrust and leaving sweet red fruit preserve and Asian spice notes behind.”
Domaine de Ferrand Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Jeb Dunnuck 94-96 points “The 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers more depth and richness than the 2015, with slightly darker fruits (blackberry, black raspberries), garrigue, smoked earth and licorice all emerging from the glass. It’s ripe, voluptuous, and beautifully textured, with sweet tannin, and is going to be a smokin’ good 2016 that’s going to have a long life. As always, this cuvée is a un-oaked blend of mostly Grenache (3% each of Mourvèdre, Syrah and Bourboulenc, with a splash of Cinsault) that comes mostly from clay soils, partially destemmed, and will be bottled with no filtration.”
Jeb Dunnuck 92-94 points “The 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Girard is like the traditional cuvée, yet has more tannin. Cassis, licorice, blackberry jam and garrigue aromas give way to full-bodied, concentrated, tannic 2016 that has tons of fruit and mid-palate depth. The cellar is going to be your friend.”
Case-12 Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Imperiale, Rhone 2016 750ML ($979.95) $736 special (that’s only $61.33/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Jeb Dunnuck 96-100 points “Violets, spring flowers, cassis, plums, and incense notes all define the stunningly good 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Imperiale. Made from 100% Grenache from very old vines, it’s full-bodied and powerful, yet also graceful, balanced and pure, with terrific freshness and purity. My money is on this flirting with perfection once bottled.”
From Aldo Conterno’s 2009’s
Poderi Aldo Conterno has been producing remarkable wines ever since it was created in 1969 by the man whose name is on the label. Sick of fighting with his brother over the winemaking style to be used at the family’s estate, the venerable Giacomo Conterno, Aldo left and never looked back. Over the course of the next several decades he established the winery as one of the most important in Italy.
Based in the Bussia hamlet in Monforte, the estate’s wines have always been powerful yet polished, with dark rich fruit. These wines are bold Barolos, with great density and power—though they still have nuance and complexity. As we mentioned, the 2009 vintage is one of ripe, powerful fruit and wines that are delicious now. The most common complaint about buying Barolo is that the wines take too long to mature and these wines solve that problem. These wines arrive next week and if you like powerful Barolo, you should buy as much as you can.
Arriving October 19th
Poderi Aldo Conterno Bussia Cicala, Barolo DOCG 2009 750ML ($179.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “Aromas of fresh cherry, raspberry, licorice and spice fill the glass as this red unfolds. Offers dense tannins and bright acidity, lending definition to the cherry, strawberry, tobacco and spice flavors that persist through the long finish. Best from 2017 through 2030. 300 cases imported.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “An aromatically beguiling wine, the 2009 Barolo Cicala is laced with dark plums, truffles, tar, incense and a host of other balsamic-infused aromas. Today, the fruit lies a bit in the background, while the wine’s aromatics and overall structure are much more in evidence. I imagine the 2009 will require at least a few more years in bottle to flesh out, but it is quite beautiful, even at this stage. There is a weightless tension in the 2009 that is remarkable.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Barolo Cicala reveals the particular dynamic of the vintage with firmly astringent tannins and power coupled with a leaner, more streamlined mouthfeel. You can also feel some of the heat of the 2009 summer with upfront aromas of prune and cassis followed by a visibly darker appearance and sweet spice on the bouquet. The wine has the inherent complexity, structure and acidity for long aging, but it offers less pulp to sink your teeth into. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.”
Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonnello, Barolo DOCG 2009 750ML ($199.95) $125 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2009 Barolo Colonnello is destined to occupy a special place in my heart as it turned out to be the first sample in my opening blind flight as Italian reviewer with The Wine Advocate. Darkly concentrated and rich, it sets the stage beautifully for 2009 Barolo thanks to its enormous grace, power and elegance. Where it really wins praise, however, is in the mouth. It shows solid grip and firm tannic tenacity that is bold and muscular without going over the top. It moves steadily over the palate in an exceptional manner. The bouquet opens to wild cherry, black licorice and drying notes of crushed white pepper. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Alluring and complex aromas of cherry, licorice, sandalwood and leather segue into sweet berry, floral and spice flavors in this red, which is still a bit monolithic, but harmonious and youthful, with a long finish and a spicy aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2032. 250 cases imported.”
Arriving October 19th
“if you can find a bottle, don’t hesitate!”-Burghound
Coche-Dury Corton Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($2,499.95) $2,199 pre-arrival special, only 1 bottle available
Burghound 93 points “A more deeply pitched nose is composed by notes of game, pungent earth, red and dark currant and an interesting smoky nuance. While this is certainly a bigger and more obviously powerful wine than the Volnay “1er” it remains relatively refined thanks in large part to the fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in an overtly stony and beautifully long finish. While this is indisputably a wine of focused power and taut muscularity along with a touch of youthful austerity, it isn’t rustic or hard. I consider this to be a considerable achievement in a vintage like 2013 where much of the Hill of Corton was so badly hammered by hail. In sum, if you can find a bottle, don’t hesitate!”
A Trove of Beppe’s Finest
Rare Vintage Wines from Giuseppe Rinaldi
Arriving October 26th:
Just one bottle available
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 2001 750ML ($339.95) $299 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2001 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste is big, plush and totally inviting. Layers of dark, balsamic-infused fruit blossom in the glass as this deep, spherical wine shows off its pedigree. There is little question the wine’s best days lie in the future. Readers who own the 2001 are in for a treat.”
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 2004 750ML ($339.95) $299 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 97+ points “The 2004 Barolo Brunate – Le Coste is utterly exquisite. I chose to start the tasting with the 2004, as I hoped it would show enough nuance and softness to lead into some of the more important wines. The 2004 does that, and so much more. Sweet, perfumed and gracious, the 2004 is pure silk. The flavors are translucent, while the wine remains light on its feet. Expressive floral notes and ripe tannins add to the wine’s sheer appeal. This is a vintage I bought heavily, and am happy to have done so, as multiple tastings have confirmed my very positive initial impressions.”
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 2006 750ML ($339.95) $299 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 98 points “A far more powerful, sinewy wine than the 2004, the 2006 Barolo Brunate – Le Coste is pure muscle. The bright red color and intense tannins show the 2006 is still an infant. It’s impossible not to admire the purity of the flavors and the wine’s overall precision. Although the 2006 has a very bright future, it won’t be anywhere close to its best for another decade or so. Readers who own the 2006 should be positively thrilled. I know I am.”
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 2007 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2007 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste is a regal, aristocratic Barolo. Firm tannins keep some of the extroverted qualities of the vintage in check. This shows marvelous inner minerality and coolness, with deep layers of fruit, menthol, licorice and tar that fill out the wine’s broad shouldered frame. The Brunte-Le Coste shuts down pretty quickly in the glass, suggesting it may be headed for a period of dormancy. Today, it is flat-out stunning. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2038.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “A ripe, sweet cherry- and raspberry-flavored red, accented by white pepper, cinnamon and floral notes. This is generous and vibrant, with a pleasant hint of astringency on the finish. Very elegant, in a traditional style, where finesse meets intensity. Best from 2015 through 2032. 800 cases made.”
Just three bottles available
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 2008 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “I very much want my guests to experience the joy of an epic, traditionally made Barolo. What could be better than Beppe Rinaldi’s 2008 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste? An exotic bouquet of lavender, violets and rose petals lifts from the glass. The wine is utterly mesmerizing from the very first taste. Over the last few months, the 2008 has begun to shut down a little, but not enough to detract from its extraordinary beauty. Vivid and totally alive in the glass, the 2008 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste is simply dazzling. Mission accomplished.”
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 2009 750ML ($329.95) $299 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 96 points “Dark cherries, plums, cloves, violets, incense, orange rind and tobacco meld together in the 2009 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste. A massive, powerful Barolo, the 2009 boasts stunning depth, power and richness, all in a relatively open style for this estate. I imagine the 2009 will drink well relatively early for top-flight Barolo, but it has fabulous class and intensity.”
Just one bottle available
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 1996 750ML ($469.95) $419 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “This is dark and brooding, with blackberry, plum, tar and treacle notes. Very fresh, with a healthy dose of earth, mineral and balsamic accents. More masculine, monolithic and square than the 1999. Drink now through 2024. 580 cases made.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “A big, powerful Barolo, the 1996 Brunate-Le Coste hits the palate with a rush of dark red and purplish fruit, violets, lavender and spices, all wrapped around a core of intense, searing tannins. If opened today, the 1996 needs quite a bit of air, but its explosive personality ensures there is no rush; the 1996 will drink well for a number of years, perhaps decades. This is a classic Rinaldi Barolo that is really meant to be drunk at full maturity, once the full range of tertiary notes have developed. In that sense, the 1996 might need another decade or more to be at its very best. This is as old-school as old-school gets.”
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Brunate-Le Coste’, Barolo DOCG 1998 750ML ($359.95) $319 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 1998 Barolo Brunate-Le Coste from Giuseppe Rinaldi, also from magnum, looks like a fake, as Rinaldi sold me a few magnums years ago, but insisted that I put on the labels myself, which I did, and with little skill. No matter, the wine is big, rich, intense and everything one could ask for.”
Just four bottles available
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Tre Tine’, Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($449.95) $399 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2010 Barolo Tre Tine is classic and austere to the core. Here, the blend of sites yields a massively tannic, old-school Barolo that is for the exceedingly patient. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco, cedar and licorice are some of the many notes that flesh out in the glass. The 2010 is incredibly focused, with tons of Le Coste in its flavor profile, but above all else, in its structure. Intense, searing tannins support the finish. Most people will desperately want the Brunate, and with good reason. It is a magical wine. But readers should not forget the Tre Tine. It is much less showy today, but in many ways it is a more typical Rinaldi Barolo for its sense of classic austerity.”
Giuseppe Rinaldi ‘Tre Tine’, Barolo DOCG, 2011 750ML ($219.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “This silky and alluring red boasts flavors of rose, raspberry and strawberry, backed by firm, refined tannins. This is an elegant wine that remains long and focused on the aftertaste, where the fruit echoes and a mineral element emerges. Best from 2018 through 2032. 750 cases made.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Rinaldi’s 2011 Barolo Tre Tine is super-expressive and gorgeous today. Dark red cherry, plum, cloves, new leather, rose petal and mint notes are all wonderfully alive and delineated. The Tre Tine is a blend of fruit from Ravera, Cannubi-San Lorenzo and Le Coste, all in the town of Barolo. In the warm 2011 vintage, the significant presence of fruit from Ravera, a high-altitude site, gives the Tre Tine its sense of freshness and linear energy. The Brunate is a bit richer and creamier, but today, I have a slight preference for the Tre Tine, as it is fresher, more vibrant and better balanced, at least today. Best of all, the 2011 will drink well with minimal cellaring.”
Classic Napa, Unchanged
Philip Togni is one of the last holdouts from what might be called Old Napa. Based on Spring Mountain, the Togni winery (now in the capable hands of daughter Lisa) has been turning out some of the best wines in Napa since the 80’s and they continue to make every bottle in the same style that made them famous in the first place. If you want Napa Cabernet that combines rich fruit with structure, spice and earth in a package that isn’t Bordeaux but can age like one, Togni is one of the best remaining options.
For whatever reason, though, they’re less famous than their peers like Mayacamas, Dunn or Corison—the other producers who make wines in a similar style and quality level. As a result, it’s still possible to acquire library stock of the wines—and we are. We’ll have a small quantity of the 2004, plus the new release 2015 arriving at the end of this month. You should buy a bottle of ’04 to see where the wines are heading and then stock up on the 2015’s, an outstanding vintage.
Philip Togni Wine In Stock Now:
This is just entering a great drinking window, this will continue to age for a decade+.
Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2004 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Robert Parker 95+ points “[Tasted in 2014] The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, comes from steep mountain vineyards at the top of the Napa side of Spring Mountain. Aromas of black olives, tapenade, creme de cassis, licorice and truffles emerge from this opaque ruby/purple-colored, youthful 2004. Togni’s spiritual reference point is Bordeaux more than Napa Valley, and his wines seem to represent a hypothetical melange of those two distinctive schools of wine. Still backward, but rich, full-bodied and promising, this brilliant 2004 is 5-7 years away from its adolescence; it should age for 30-40 years.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “[Tasted in 2014 at a separate tasting] The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon has developed beautifully since I last tasted it. The early harvest produced an exotic, ripe wine built on intensity, breadth and power. Sweet tobacco, grilled herbs and cloves wrap around a core of blue/blackish fruit as this voluptuous Cabernet Sauvignon shows off its considerable power. The 2004 will drink well for another 10-15 years. Today it is in a real sweet spot of total beauty.”
Philip Togni Wine Arriving This Month:
A vintage to drink over the next year hide away for 10-15. Outstanding
Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2015 750ML ($169.95) $149 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 96 points “Medium garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate has a very classic nose of cassis, warm plums and crushed blackberries with notions of cigar box, garrigue, damp soil and truffles plus wafts of menthol and underbrush. The palate is medium to full-bodied with a firm frame of grainy tannins and wonderful freshness, finishing long and minerally.”
Antonio Galloni 96 points “A fleshy deep, wine, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate exudes richness and sheer exotic beauty from the very first taste. As always, the Togni wines need bottle age to be at their best. In 2015, time will mostly help the aromatics develop, as the tannins are quite soft for such a young wine. Expressive floral and savory notes develop with time in the glass, but the 2015 is years away from hitting its stride. It will be interesting to see where the 2015 goes in the coming years and decades. Sadly, yields are down a whopping 50%.”
Philip Togni Wines Arriving in December:
2016 was a marked success in Napa. Stock up on this while it’s available.
Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2016 750ML ($159.95) $138 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “A barrel sample, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is deep garnet-purple in color with loads of blue and black fruits—very spicy—with a fragrant earth undercurrent. The palate is medium-bodied and elegant with very fine, firm, ripe tannins and great freshness, finishing vivacious and earthy.”
Antonio Galloni 93-96 points “Togni’s 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon is deep, fleshy and quite powerful, with intense dark fruit and tons of concentration. Black cherry, plum, tobacco, licorice and menthol are all fused together. This is an unusually rich, unctuous wine for Togni. I tasted a representative blend from barrels that had been racked about ten days prior, which may explain the wine’s shy, inward personality at this stage. Even so, the 2016 holds quite a bit of promise.”
Philip Togni Vineyard Tanbark Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2016 750ML ($79.95) $66 pre-arrival special
The whites are bright and fresh—no small feat for wines made from Marsanne and Roussane. They still hold onto their essential Rhone character though, with plenty of power and richness. The reds walk a similar tightrope, with some whole-cluster usage but not enough to make the wine feel coarse. They have beautiful, dark fruit and although they should age effortlessly for a decade, they’re delicious now.
Featured and In Stock Now:
Staff Pick! An exceptional white Rhone.
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Saint-Peray, Rhone 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “This team has made a terrific 2016 Saint-Péray, (50/50 Marsanne and Roussanne aged in 15% new oak) from an appellation that continues to produce more and more outstanding wines. Honeysuckle, white flowers, caramelized peach and white currant notes give way to a pure, elegant, layered white that has terrific purity and length. It’s going to drink beautifully for 3-4 years or more.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 91 points “Pale yellow-gold. Fresh and incisive on the nose, displaying vibrant citrus and orchard fruit scents complemented by hints of honeysuckle and chalky minerals. Shows very good depth of flavor but comes off lithe, offering juicy Meyer lemon and bitter pear skin flavors that pick up a spicy ginger note on the back half. Closes very long and precise, delivering a firm snap of minerality and lingering floral character.”
In the mold of Condrieu at a much lower price.
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand ‘Caprice’ Viognier, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2016 750ML ($21.95) $16 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2016 Vin de Pays Collines Rhodaniennes Caprice Viognier was harvested in October, two weeks after the family’s red wines. It offers plenty of Viognier character in its floral and apricot-like aromas, plump and succulent palate feel, and trace of bitterness on the finish.”
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Saint-Peray, Rhone 2017 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Cornas Confidence, Rhone 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 95 points “Nicely put together, with a gorgeous core of raspberry, cassis and bitter plum fruit that has melded seamlessly with fresh bay leaf, olive, violet and alder notes. The long finish reveals a buried iron hint while the fruit sails through. Best from 2020 through 2035.”
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Cornas Empreintes, Rhone 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Cornas Empreintes, Rhone 2016 1.5L ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 95 points “Ripe and focused, with mouthwatering acidity driving the core of steeped red currant, raspberry and blackberry fruit along. A bright iron note zings through the finish, pulling in light anise, savory and sanguine hints. Best from 2020 through 2035.”
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Bright purple. Ripe berries, cherry preserves, licorice, woodsmoke and vanilla on the deeply perfumed nose. Concentrated and powerful but energetic as well; juicy acidity sharpens the densely packed blackberry, bitter cherry and olive paste flavors. The impressively long, velvety finish features harmonious tannins, a touch of candied violet and lingering smokiness.”
Wine Advocate 92-95 points “I tasted from three tanks that will be blended to create the 2016 Cornas Empreintes. (It appears there will be no 2016 Cornas Confidence, with those barrels being blended into this cuvée.) This should prove to be an outstanding wine, as all tank samples brought ample weight, ripeness and detail to the glass. I can’t wait to try the finished wine next year. Pencil shavings, crushed stone, black olive and plum notes give just a hint of the flavors that await.”
Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Cornas Premices, Rhone 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Domaine Eric et Joel Durand Cornas Premices, Rhone 2016 750ML ($219.95) $179 pre-arrival special (that’s only $/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 94 points “Warm fig, blackberry and black currant fruit gives this a decidedly dark profile, while licorice root, dark olive and bay leaf notes score the finish. A tarry edge adds grip and length. Shows range and depth, and begs for cellaring. Best from 2021 through 2035.”