July 3, 2014
Chardonnay
Aubert Wines ‘CIX’ Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2011 ($149.95) $119 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Spectator 92 points “Exhibits a rich core of citrus, ripe pear, honeysuckle, hazelnut and green apple flavors, tightly wound with lively acidity. Ends with a long, persistent finish and a crushed rock minerality. Drink now through 2018. 286 cases made”Byron Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County 2012 ($17.95) $10.90 special, 3+ cases available
Winemaker’s note “The 2012 vintage included a very cool winter and spring. These conditions led to being fruitful with small clusters and small berries with flavors of stone fruit, fig, honey; hints of brown spice and mineral. The palate is both crisp and concentrated with a mineral finish.”
Failla Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, Fort Ross-Seaview 2012 ($47.95) $39 special, 3+ cases available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “One of the standouts in this range, the 2012 Chardonnay Estate Vineyard is endowed with striking minerality and energy to match the pure depth of the fruit. This is a distinctly broad, yet implosive Chardonnay typical of the coast that needs time for the flavors to fully flesh out. Failla’s Estate vineyard is planted with a combination of Hyde, Wente and Mount Eden clones.”
Failla Haynes Vineyard Chardonnay, Coombsville 2011 ($59.95) $39 special, 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91+ points “Bright yellow. Aromas of lemon and orange blossom, mirabelle, menthol and medicinal herbs. Superripe and densely packed, with a slightly edgy character to the youthful flavors of mirabelle, spices, tangerine, crystallized lemon peel and wet stone. Then tightens up dramatically on the dusty, tactile, bracing finish. Best on the nose today, but this distinctive chardonnay shows a certain delicacy for all its richness. I’d like to revisit it in five years.”
Failla Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2012 ($59.95) $41.90 special, 21 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2012 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard, from one of the great sites in Napa Valley, is also one of the most classic California Chardonnays in this range. Lemon peel, pastry, flowers and sweet spices meld together in a textured, inviting Chardonnay built on texture. A wine of stunning balance and pure voluptuousness, the 2012 boasts fabulous balance and tons of personality. This is pure Hudson, not to mention a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. After many years juggling duties at both Turley and Failla, Ehren Jordan is now focused solely on his estate, but he still makes a dizzying array of wines. These Chardonnays and Pinots are essays into many of the truly great terroirs of Napa Valley, Sonoma and Mendocino. Personally I tend to gravitate towards the Sonoma Coast wines in this range, but there are plenty of fabulous wines from which to choose here. All of the 2012s were in bottle at the time of my tastings, in January 2014.”
Failla Keefer Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2009 ($49.95) $29 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points “Delivers a clean, fresh, vibrant beam of citrus-laced tropical fruit that’s tight and focused, with very subtle touches of light oak and an engagingly long, detailed finish. This has a nice depth of flavor to balance the acidity. Drink now through 2017.”
Failla Keefer Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2011 ($49.95) $39 special, 13 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “Lemon oil, grapefruit and crushed rocks all take shape as the 2011 Chardonnay Keefer Ranch shows off its focused, vibrant personality. This is one of the more pointed, intensely saline Chardonnays in the lineup. Transparent, vivid and totally alive in the glass, the 2011 impresses for its balance and crystalline purity. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020.”
Failla Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2012 ($39.95) $29 special, 27 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Failla’s 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast) is wonderfully tense and vibrant, especially within the context of the vintage. Lemon oil and floral notes jump from the glass in a graceful, chiseled Chardonnay long on class. The Chardonnay is done in equal parts stainless steel, barrel and concrete egg.”
Kalin Cellars Cuvee LD Chardonnay, Sonoma County 1993 ($69.95) $59 special, 9 bottles available
“The ‘Stealth’ Cuvee”
Kosta Browne One Sixteen Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2011 ($99.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Green- tinged gold. A complex bouquet evokes lime, lemongrass and white flowers, with a smoky, leesy overtone. Spicy, firm and precise, offering lively citrus zest flavors and a deeper touch of honeydew. Packs a punch but comes off lithe and nervy, with an exotic coconut quality and a lingering floral note on the very long finish.”
Newton Vineyard ‘Red Label’ Chardonnay ($19.95) $14 special, 3+ cases available
“Tropical fruit, peach, pear, green apple and lime flavors mark this fruity Chardonnay. It has prominent vanilla and buttered toast flavors, with a nice hit of acidity for balance.”–Wine Enthusiast
Poe Ferrington Vineyard Chardonnay, Anderson Valley 2012 ($47.95) $39 special, 3+ cases available
Winemaker Notes “The Chardonnay this year stands out for its purity and focus. The nose of white flowers, lemon oil, crushed rocks, and honey is enticing. This wine has beautiful bright acidity and envelopes the palate with flavors of peach, apricot skin, pear, quince and citrus. High-toned floral and stone fruit notes add lift on the linear, lengthy finish.”
Rochioli Estate Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2011 ($59.95) $49 special, 21 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2011 Chardonnay Estate is an excellent introduction to the Rochioli wines. In this vintage, the Chardonnay has gorgeous intensity and energy. White flowers, lemon and crushed rocks all come to life in a vibrant Chardonnay that should drink nicely for a handful of years. Bright saline notes add tension on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021.”
Sonoma-Cutrer The Cutrer Chardonnay, Russian River Valley 2010 ($39.95) $33 special, 3+ cases available
Producer Notes: “This wine is a classic California – clean and fresh. It has a rich texture that is big, round and creamy, and balanced with the hallmark Sonoma-Cutrer acidity. Aromas of honey, caramel, and toasted nuts are accented with allspice, peach and baked apple. Flavors of ripe peaches and hazelnut and apple are layered with crème brulee, toasty oak and subtle hints of spice.”
Chateau Souverain Chardonnay, North Coast 2011($17.95) $9.90 special, 14 bottles available
Winemaker’s notes: “Inviting aromas of roasted pears, lemon citrus and subtle baking spice meet elegant layers of pineapple, lemon-lime and crème brûlée flavors. The full-bodied Chardonnay offers a lush texture and balanced acidity. The wine has a lengthy, flavorful finish.”
Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Broken Road Chardonnay, Alexander Valley 2011 ($39.95) $29 special, 10 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “(from an old Wente clone; all of these 2011s were fermented with wild yeasts): Bright yellow. Highly nuanced nose combines lemon custard, smoked meat, minerals and hazelnut complicated by a sulfidey quality. Plush but very dry, with a lightly saline quality adding interest to the perfumed pineapple and mineral flavors. Finishes stony, dry and long. This is remarkably Burgundian for a California chardonnay in its price range. A worthy successor to the outstanding 2010 bottling.”
Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Upper Barn Chardonnay, Alexander Valley 2011 ($79.95) $59 special, 15 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “(from a Hyde Wente clone): Full bright yellow. Ripe, deep aromas of lemon peel, tangerine, beeswax, crushed rock and dusty herbs, with hints of honey and tropical fruits. Large-scaled, rich and tactile, with nearly viscous flavors of lemon, white peach and butterscotch. Really compelling, ripe, vibrant fruit here, and wonderfully broad and dry. Very complex and sexy wine, a brilliant rendition of this outstanding chardonnay vineyard.”
OREGON CHARDONNAY
Bergstrom Wines Old Stones Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2011 ($34.95) $31.90 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points: “The 2011 Chardonnay Old Stones went through full malolactic fermentation and was aged in roughly 40% new oak. Medium straw-colored, it reveals an expressive nose of smoke, toast, baked apple, pear, and hazel nuts. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it has ample ripe, savory, layered fruit, excellent volume and concentration, a smooth texture, and a lengthy finish. Although it can be enjoyed now, it is likely to unwind for another 1-2 years and drink well for 5-6 thereafter.”
Crowley Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2012 ($26.95) $21.90 special, 2 bottles available
All Four Winds Vineyard
Evesham Wood Le Puits Sec Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills 2012 ($27.95) $24 special, 11 bottles available
Evesham Wood Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2013 ($19.95) $16 special, 3 bottles available
J. Christopher ‘Cuvee Lunatique’ Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2012 ($19.95) $16.60 special, 6 bottles available
St. Innocent Freedom Hill Vineyard Dijon Clone Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2012 ($24.95) $21.90 special, 9 bottles available
Mark Vlossak, Winemaker’s notes “The 2012 Freedom Hill Chardonnay has a detailed and focused nose of apples and pears with spice and ripe citrus notes. Fresh stone fruit flavors are balanced by bright acidity and layers of stoniness – both river stones and the “stone” of a peach. These flavors extend across the palate and the minerality broadens into the finish. The combination of layered fruit, length, and complex undercurrent of minerality makes it a good match for richer white meat dishes. Match with rich fishes, wild birds, risottos and cheeses. Drinkable at release, it will develop over 8 years.”
Evening Land Mad Hatter Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills 2010 ($39.95) $33 special, 2 bottles available
WASHINGTON CHARDONNAY
Buty Winery Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2011 ($44.95) $34.90 special, 3 bottles available
Long Shadows Dance Chardonnay, Columbia Valley 2011 ($34.95) $26 special, 30 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points “Coming all from the estate’s The Benches Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, the 2011 Chardonnay Dance is a 100% barrel-fermented Chardonnay that spent one year in 50% new French oak. Possessing gorgeous Montrachet-like aromas and flavors of toasted nut, brioche, buttered peaches and hints of apple, it is a serious Chardonnay that has medium-bodied richness, a rounded, supple texture and good freshness. Like so many Washington State Chardonnays, it lacks that extra degree of cut and precision on the palate that’s present in the top Chardonnays of the world; nevertheless, it is certainly an outstanding effort that will drink nicely for 3-4 years. Drink now-2016.”
Woodward Canyon Chardonnay 2010 ($44.95) $36 special, 2 bottles available
FRANCE – CHAMPAGNE – BLANC DE BLANC
Ayala Blanc de Blancs Brut 2004 ($79.95) $59 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points “An open-knit texture is focused by firm acidity while rich notes of leesy bread dough and smoky roast nut add depth to flavors of kumquat, tangy apple, white peach and lemon peel, with an aromatic finish. Disgorged January 2010. Drink now through 2019.”
A. Margaine Blanc de Blancs 2006 1.5L ($159.95) $137 special, 11 magnums available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “ Light gold. White peach, pear, smoky minerals and buttered toast on the sexy, highly perfumed nose. At once rich and lithe, with crackling minerality giving lift and verve to the wine’s intense pit and orchard fruit flavors. Sappy, fine-grained and pure, finishing long and precise, with hints of licorice and iodine.”
A. Margaine Extra Brut NV ($59.95) $49 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Spectator & Stephen Tanzer 91 points “A sleek style, with racy acidity and flavors of crunchy white peach, persimmon, toasted brioche and lemon curd. Chalk and smoke notes hint at an underlying minerality and linger on the finish.”
A. Margaine Special Club Brut 2008 ($79.95) $69 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(aged for four years on its lees and disgorged in July of 2013): Green-tinged yellow. Sexy aromas of candied lemon and orange, white flowers and ginger. Mineral and white pepper notes add lift and bite to ripe, deep citrus and orchard fruit flavors. The mineral note drives the delineated, long finish.”
Alfred Gratien Blanc De Blancs 2007 ($119.95) $79 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Backed by intense and mouthwatering acidity, this firm version offers tightly knit flavors of lemon meringue, poached pear, pastry, with hints of hazelnut and coconut. Shows fine texture, and a smoky, mineral-driven base. Drink now through 2020”
Bereche et Fils La Cote Grand Cru Extra-Brut Millesime 1999 1.5L ($279.95) $219 special, 2 magnums available
Bereche et Fils La Cote Grand Cru Extra-Brut Millesime 2002 ($119.95) $99 special, 1 bottle available
Bereche et Fils La Cote Grand Cru Extra-Brut NV ($89.95) $79 special, 2 bottles available
Bereche et Fils Montagne Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut Millesime 2004 ($99.95) $89 special, 2 bottles available
Chartogne-Taillet Heurtebise Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 2008 ($79.95) $66 special, 14 bottles available
Terry Thiese “The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise is one of the more virile, imposing wines in this lineup. Smoke, pastry, spices, honey and candied fruit are some of the many notes that flow from the glass. The Heurtebise has plenty of power, but less in the way of finesse. Still, it is an intriguing Chardonnay loaded with personality and character”
De Sousa Brut Reserve Blanc De Blancs NV 1.5L ($139.95) $89 special, 10 magnums available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Light, bright yellow. Exotically perfume of nectarine, poached pear, brioche, anise and chamomile. Deep, round and fleshy, with powerful orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a jolt of smoky minerals on the back half. Smoothly blends richness and vivacity, finishing with excellent clarity and toasty persistence.”
De Sousa & Fils Cuvee des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Bru 2006 ($219.95) $119 special, 9 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “…Shows surprising vivacity for its power, offering intense orchard and citrus fruit flavors and a touch of iodine. Closes on a leesy note, with excellent thrust, a savory character and a touch of honeysuckle.”
De Sousa & Fils Cuvee des Caudalies Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Bru NV ($79.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “A blend of 13 vintages, beautifully ripe and round, even with some maturity. Fresh citric fruit cuts through the richness and flavors of pineapple. There is a tang in the texture, an almost chewy structure. Age this wine for a year or two.”
Demarne-Frison Lalore Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV 1.5L ($149.95) $125 special, 1 magnum available
Deutz Blanc de Blancs Millesime 2007 ($84.95) $69 special, 12 bottles available
Deutz Blanc de Blancs Millesime 2007 1.5L ($159.95) $139 special, 4 magnums available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Light, bright straw. Lemon zest, green apple and chalky minerals on the fragrant nose. Dry and precise, offering energetic citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up anise and honeysuckle nuances with air. Closes stony and long, with lingering floral and iodine notes.”
Fleury Pere et Fils ‘Cepages Blancs’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesime 1990 ($199.95) $139 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 points “Aromatic notes of ocean brine and white truffle announce this vibrant Champagne, which layers flavors of candied lemon, dried papaya, smoked almond, crystallized honey and pound cake. Offers a detailed texture and finely meshed acidity. Drink now through 2022”
Fleury Pere et Fils ‘Cepages Blancs’ Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesime 2004 ($79.95) $69 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Advocate 93 points “Another gorgeous wine, the 2004 Brut Cepages Blancs (Chardonnay) is stunningly beautiful. Rich, deep and layered, the 2004 comes alive in the glass. Lemon, dried flowers and hazelnuts wrap around the palate as this complex, utterly beguiling wine shows off its considerable personality and pedigree. Chalky notes frame the finish. This is without question one of the very best wines I have ever tasted from Fleury.”
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuvee Fleuron Millesime Premier Cru Brut 1996 ($189.95) $169 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Fresh like a spring meadow, this delicate, vibrant bubbly evokes wildflower, citrus, almond and ginger aromas and flavors, all tightly wound on a racy structure. Harmonious and long, the finish hints at charms to be revealed.”
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuvee Fleuron Millesime Premier Cru Brut 2006 ($69.95) $59 special, 4 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Pale gold. Smoky pear and nectarine aromas are brightened by zesty minerals and deepened by hints of toasty lees and iodine. Intense orchard fruit and melon flavors stain the palate, picking up citrus pith and floral honey qualities with air. Turns firmer and more minerally with air, finishing with excellent lift and smoky persistence.”
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Gastronome 2008 ($59.95) $49 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2008 Brut Chardonnay Premier Cru Cuvee Gastronome is a blend of fruit from Chouilly, Cuis, Cramant, Oger and Vertus. Here the fruit begins to take on slightly greater textural richness and depth. Crisp yellow-fleshed fruits, flowers, almonds and spices are all woven together beautifully. The 2008 stands out for its inner perfume, sweetness and inviting personality. Disgorgement date: January 17, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.”
Gimonnet Special Club 2005 ($79.95) $69 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 92 points “Gimonnet’s 2005 Brut Special Club is made predominantly from old vines in Cramant, Oger and Cuis. It offers better balance than the 2005 Non Dose, as a little dosage, in this case 5 grams per liter, unleashes the aromatics and fruit to a considerable degree. Pears, pastry, lemon oil, almonds and exotic flowers all meld together nicely. The 2005 Special Club remains tightly wound and vibrant, with none of the awkward notes that are found in so many wines in this vintage. Disgorgement date: July 30, 2012. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020.”
Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru Champ Cain Brut 2004 ($289.95) $219 special, 2 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The broad shoulders of Avize come through loud and clear in Jacquesson’s 2004 Brut Avize Champ Cain. A rich, creamy wine, the 2004 fills out its frame beautifully. Layers of vanilla, pencil shavings, peach, apricot and white flowers all flesh out in the glass. Rich and powerful the Avize impresses for its intensity and pure pedigree. This is a drop-dead gorgeous wine from Jacquesson. Dosage was 1.5 grams per liter.
Legras & Haas Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Chouilly NV ($49.95) $33 special, 20 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Light, bright yellow. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit aromas are lifted by notes of chalk and lemongrass. Fleshy but dry and tangy on the palate, offering vibrant Meyer lemon and pear flavors and a subtle toastiness. Shows impressive clarity and vivacity on the finish, which leaves dusty mineral and sweet butter notes behind.”
Pascal Doquet Grand Cru Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs Bru NV($64.95) $49 special, 1 bottle available
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs 1.5L ($149.95) $119 special, 22 magnums available
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs NV 375 ($37.95) $33 special, 11 half-bottles available
Burghound 93 points “A stunningly elegant nose of pure floral, Granny Smith apples, spice and freshly sliced lemon complements to perfection the intense and equally pure flavors that possess excellent punch like remain delicate and ultra-refined on the balanced and persistent finish. The supporting mousse displays a very find bead and the overall impression is one of subtlety and grace. Not only is this a wonderful effort but the value it offers it beyond stunning.”Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2005 ($149.95) $119 special, 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “made from fruit grown in a single site in Le Mesnil sur Oger; aged for six years on its lees and disgorged in June of 2012): Bright yellow-gold. Heady aromas of fresh nectarine, lemon, honeysuckle and ginger are complemented by deeper notes of smoky lees and brioche. Bright citrus zest and quince flavors give way to richer melon and pit fruits with air while maintaining impressive verve and cut. Shows a chewy, dense character without coming off as heavy. Really clings to the palate on the back end, finishing spicy and quite long. I’d have no guilt about polishing off a bottle right now.”Vincent Couche Perle de Nacre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut ($59.95) $49 special, 10 bottles available
100% Chardonnay from the Biodynamically-farmed estate parcel in Montgeux, just outside of Troyes. Based on the 2004, 2003 & 2002 harvests – this beauty spent 9 years on the lees prior to disgorgement on January 5, 2012 with 6 grams dosage. Limestone, minerals, and brioche dominate the nose, with precise flavors and a fresh, creamy texture on the palate. “Perle de Nacre” is French for “mother of pearl.”Vouette et Sorbee Cuvee Blanc d’Argile Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut NV ($99.95) $79 special, 12 bottles available
2010 Base Vintage
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Sweet flowers, honey, mint and pine all take shape in the Blanc d’Argille. In this vintage, the Blanc d’Argille is quite restrained, subtle and nuanced, but it opens up nicely in the glass, with pretty hints of almond, lemon peel and crushed rocks. Expressive floral notes add lift and fragrance on the finish.”FRANCE – BURGUNDY – CHABLIS
Domaine Christian Moreau Pere & Fils Clos des Hospices, Chablis Grand Cru 2011 ($99.95) $75 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Expressive yellow stone fruits, spices, graphite and subtle French oak flow from the 2011 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices. Hints of slate, smoke and oyster shells come to life on the beautifully delineated finish. There is great energy in the glass, but this is an infant. Here, too, I have a slight preference for the 2011 over the 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”Domaine Christian Moreau Pere & Fils Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2011 ($79.95) $59 special, 8 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “The 2011 Chablis Les Clos comes across as rather big in this vintage. A broad-shouldered frame houses rich fruit in this powerful, intense wine. The 2011 is intensely mineral-driven and focused, more so than the 2010, which is surprising. It is likely to require a measure of patience, but it is quite pretty. The 2011 has a pure energy and tension that is missing in the 2010, at least at this stage. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”
Rene et Vincent Dauvissat-Camus La Forest, Chablis Premier Cru 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 1 bottle available
Burghound 92 points “A beautifully layered nose features notes of ripe citrus, sea breeze, dried flowers, quinine and mineral reduction. The punchy medium-bodied flavors are built on a base of minerality that adds lift to the tension-filled finish that coats the mouth with acid buffering dry extract. This is not especially refined but it really fans out on the wonderfully long finale and should reward 7 to 10 years of bottle age.”
Rene et Vincent Dauvissat-Camus Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $219 special, 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points, Stephen Tanzer 94(+?) points “(these vines were planted in 1970): Reticent aromas of citrus zest, warm stones, baked bread and white flowers. The palate offers compelling sucrosite perfectly buffered by a bright lemon flavor and an underlying crushed-rock character that stands in for the wine’s average acidity. Very young but already long on personality. Finishes with piquant saline and stone notes.”
Rene et Vincent Dauvissat-Camus Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $219 special, 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 96 points “Pale yellow. Bracing aromas of lemon, ginger, chalk and spices. At once dense and penetrating, with outstanding citric cut to the complex, slightly high-toned flavors of lemon zest, white pepper, minerals and subtle resiny spices. Here, too, the wine’s intense chalky character gives it an impression of stronger acidity than the numbers would suggest. Boasts terrific fruit intensity, and the wonderfully precise finish goes on and on. A great showing today, and one of the superstars of the vintage.”
Domaine Faiveley Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2009 ($99.95) $79 special, 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Straw-yellow. Soil-driven aromas of flinty, petrolly minerality, oyster shell and menthol. Broad, silky and suave yet with terrific energy and sappiness to the flavors of lemon, lime and wet stone. Less detailed today than the Preuses, but the slowly building, palate-saturating finish has to be one of the longest of the vintage. This wine, too, shows its great site more than it does the very warm 2009 vintage. For Chablis connoisseurs.”
Domaine Faiveley Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2011 ($79.95) $66 special, 33 bottles available
Burghound 92 points “A classic Les Clos nose of oyster shell, white flowers and wet stone leads to intensely mineral-inflected and broad-shouldered flavors that display cuts-like-a-knife delineation before culminating in a clean and very dry finish. There is a note of petrol to the finish that adds to the unmistakable Chablis character.”
Domaine Faiveley Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2011 ($74.95) $59 special, 34 bottles available
Burghound 91 points “This offers markedly better complexity on the cool and pure aromas of iodine, tidal pool and white orchard fruit. There is fine intensity to the attractively mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that are at once succulent yet precise, all wrapped in a harmonious and beautifully lingering finish.”
William Fevre Mont de Milieu, Chablis Premier Cru 2010 ($59.95) $44 special, 6 bottles available
Burghound 91-93 points “The differences in exposition between Mont de Milieu and Les Lys are really quite strikingly underscored as the fruit aromas here are so much riper and more obviously kissed by the sun, indeed to the point where there is an overt exoticism to the yellow orchard fruit aromas. Yet there is still excellent freshness and enough Chablis character to faithfully recall this wine’s origins. There is impressive volume and power to the medium weight plus flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that coats the mouth on the intense, complex and lasting finish. This succulent effort should develop well over the next 5 to 7 years.”
William Fevre Valmur, Chablis Grand Cru 2010 ($109.95) $89 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2010 Chablis Valmur captures the essence of the vintage. It represents everything Chablis is and can be. Gunflint, slate, oyster shells, white flowers and citrus are just some of the many notes that emerge from this finely sculpted, chiseled wine. In 2010, the Valmur possesses stunning nuance and tons of delineation. It finishes with notable persistence and an element of austerity that is not totally typical of Valmur, but that is, nevertheless, highly appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”
William Fevre Vignoble de Vaulorent Fourchaume, Chablis Premier Cru 2010 ($74.95) $59 special, 16 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent is striking. It shows plenty of richness but very little in the way of excess weight. There is plenty of depth waiting to emerge from this expressive, mineral-drenched Chablis. Mint, flowers and white stone fruits wrap around the pure, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”
William Fevre Bougros, Chablis Grand Cru 2010 ($89.95) $79 special, 9 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “A restrained nose of citrus, floral, mineral reduction and algae slides into impressively rich, powerful, serious and concentrated flavors that are almost painfully intense on the explosive and strikingly long finish. This is a classic Bougros with its robust and muscular big-bodied flavors.”
William Fevre Bougros Cote Bouguerots, Chablis Grand Cru 2008 ($99.95) $89 special, 24 bottles available
William Fevre Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru 2010 ($89.95) $79 special, 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2010 Chablis Vaudesir is pure class and elegance. Layers of subtle, perfumed fruit caress the palate in this highly expressive Chablis. Everything is in the right place. The 2010 is all about subtlety. This is one of the more finessed Fevre 2010s. I love the balance of aromatics, fruit and acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”
Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir Decouvertes 2012 ($29.95) $26 special, 5 bottles available
FRANCE – OTHER BURGUNDY – CHARDONNAY
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault Santenots, Meursault Premier Cru 2008 ($79.95) $59 special, 10 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2008 Meursault Les Santenots is powerful yet balanced in a broad, expansive style that caresses the palate with tons of rich, honeyed fruit. Lighter, floral notes appear on the finish, adding brightness to what is otherwise a fairly masculine style of Meursault. All of the elements work nicely here. Anticipated maturity: 2013+. ”
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Ile des Vergelesses Blanc, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru 2010 ($59.95) $49 special, 3 bottles available
Burghound 90 points “An expressive and quite fresh nose combines notes of citrus, pear and soft floral notes that complement well the minerally, pure and racy flavors that possess plenty of verve and detail before culminating in a notably dry, balanced and linear finish. There is a subtle touch of austerity to the long back end though it’s not aggressive. Lovely.”
Maison Deux Montille Soeur et Frere Les Coeres, Montagny Premier Cru 2010 ($39.95) $33 special, 25 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright pale yellow. Tight, pure aromas of lime, quinine and ginger. Chewy, dense and rich, with brisk citrus fruits and saline minerality energizing the middle palate. Finishes tactile and impressively long for Montagny.”
Maison Deux Montille Soeur et Frere Champ Gain, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($99.95) $79 special, 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gains is another round, harmonious wine well-suited for near-term drinking. Light floral notes develop in the glass, giving the 2010 an extra dimension of volume and texture that flows through to a gracious finish supported by insistent veins of minerality. This is another utterly delicious wine with plenty of 2010 vintage character. Anticipated maturity: 2012+.”
Domaine des Lambrays Clos du Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($159.95) $139 special, 3 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “Here the nose is similar to that of the Folatières but is more complex still as there are spice and more obvious stone hints that carry over to the exceptionally well-detailed and highly energetic flavors where the underlying minerality seems extracted directly from liquid rock. There is excellent mid-palate concentration as well as a lovely interplay between the acidity, fruit and supporting dry extract, all wrapped in an explosive finish. Classy and impeccably well-balanced juice.”
Domaine Leflaive Les Pucelles, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($279.95) $229 special, 2 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “A broad-ranging nose is comprised of honeysuckle, anise, clove, lemongrass, brioche and pear. There is an appealing sense of volume to the beautifully delineated, serious, textured and energetic flavors that are both classy and stylish, all wrapped in a hugely long yet impeccably balanced finish where a touch of wood influence surfaces. A classic Pucelles of generosity and refinement that should amply reward up to a decade of cellaring.”
Dominique Lafon Bourgogne Blanc 2010 ($34.95) $24 special, 27 bottles available
Antonio Galloni “The 2010 Bourgogne Blanc is gorgeous. It reveals lovely depth and roundness, with expressive fruit, nuanced aromatics and tremendous overall balance. This is an unusually refined wine within its peer group. The 2010 was made from grapes sourced in St. Veran. Beginning in 2011, the Bourgogne will include fruit from Meursault that Lafon gained access to through the purchase of Domaine Manuel. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. These are the first wines I have tasted from Dominique Lafon’s new label, which he directs entirely on his own. Dominique Lafon is making his wines in a slightly different style than he has become known for at Comtes Lafon, his family’s iconic estate in Meursault. The Dominique Lafon wines are a little bit more laid back and restrained.”
Etienne Sauzet Les Perrieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($119.95) $99 special, 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90-93 points “(this and the following wines are from vines on the middle of the slope; the previous premier crus were from higher up the hillsides): Green-yellow. Subtle, elegant aromas of citrus fruits, peach and smoky oak. Smooth and seamless on the palate, with very good energy to its lime, lemon and saline flavors. A hint of fern suggests the noble vegetal side of Puligny. Suave, harmonious acidity gives lift to the dry, saline, persistent finish. This fruit reached 13.2% natural alcohol. Boudot described these 27-year-old vines as “young for me.”
Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet, Cote de Beaune 2011 375ML ($41.95) $33 special, 15 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 87-90 points “(I tasted an assemblage of all five components): Sexy nose combines white flowers, spices and musky lees. Fat, plush and sweet, with a firm mineral edge giving the mid-palate a more chiseled quality than the Chassagne villages. The citrus and dusty stone finish conveys an impression of grip and firmness.”
Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2009 ($269.95) $199 special, 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Palish green-yellow. Crushed stone, lemon-lime, hazelnut and a whiff of leesy complexity on the explosive nose. Boasts terrific density and sucrosite but with excellent acid backbone and firm minerality providing lift and shape. Best today on the long finish, which features palate-staining red grapefruit and crushed stone flavors. These 50-year-old vines are planted in deep soil, but there’s a lot of minerality in the subsoil, notes Hervet. Offers superb potential, but the 2008 may be even better.”
Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2010 ($249.95) $179 special, 16 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95-97 points “Aroma of cold steel. Great energy to the flavors of crushed rock and citrus fruits. A wine of outstanding richness and chewy texture, this Corton-Charlemagne washes over the palate like a wave. An infant today but destined for a long life in bottle. Conveys an impression of great solidity. (I also loved the Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet for its exhilarating acid/sugar balance and spicy, citric intensity, but neither it nor Faiveley’s more austere Batard was near the end of its secondary fermentation. The Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatieres showed a piquant floral quality and terrific sappy length.)”
Domaine Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $189 special, 21 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “Here too the wood treatment is quite deft which allows the cool Granny Smith apples, pear, wet stone and spice scents to shine. There is also a seductive mouth feel to the broad-shouldered, supple and round flavors that brim with dry extract before displaying plenty of power and punch on the seriously long finish. This is easily the most backward wine in the range at present yet the impression is unusually fine, both in the context of the appellation but also in the context of this wine in general as it’s usually more robust. Be all of that as it may, this is very, very promising.”
Domaine Faiveley Puligny-Montrachet 2010 ($59.95) $49 special, 16 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 88-90 points “Ripe peach, menthol, rose oil and spices on the perfumed, high-pitched nose, complicated by a hint of red berries. Then tactile and brisk on the palate, with strong acidity and floral cut drawing out the finish.”
Domaine Faiveley Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($99.95) $79 special, 11 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points ‘OUTSTANDING’ “A beautifully complex, cool and elegant nose of acacia blossom, white orchard fruit and plenty of wet stone nuances complements the equally stony, intense and ultra-pure medium weight flavors that possess outstanding detail and verve. I very much like the balance and refinement and this should be accessible young as there is fine mid-palate concentration and plenty of extract which imparts a fleshy mouth feel.”
Jean-Philippe Fichet Meursault 2011 ($59.95) $51.90 special, 8 bottles available
Burghound 88-91 points “There is a distinct hazelnut character to the white and yellow orchard fruit aromas that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is good richness to the lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess a fine sense of energy on the saline, clean and dry finish. A lovely villages that should repay 5 to 7 years of aging.”
Jean-Philippe Fichet Les Referts, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($119.95) $99 special, 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91+ points “Pale, bright yellow. Musky peach and a metallic quality on the reticent nose. Generous, ripe and silky, with a concentrated peach flavor nicely framed by excellent acidity. Less complex and showy today than the Tesson but with lovely underlying floral character. In a classically dry style but has the stuffing to support its firm spine of acidity. Finishes with considerable finesse and excellent length.”
Francois Carillon Les Combettes, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($119.95) $89 special, 21 bottles available
Burghound 90-92 points “This is also relatively reduced and difficult to read. There is a wonderfully elegant mouth feel to the vibrant, intense and well-delineated medium-bodied flavors that exude a lovely mineral streak on the saline-infused finish. This is not especially dense but the complexity and overall sense of refinement make for a harmonious effort that is worth considering.”
Francois Carillon Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($89.95) $69 special, 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “In a very ripe, powerful style, with aromas of peach and stone joined by spices and a saline quality in the mouth. Fat and round but firmed by palate-dusting minerality. Finishes fruit-driven and strong, with a hint of dusty tannins and a note of clove.”
Francois Carillon Les Referts, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($89.95) $69 special, 12 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “A reductive note along with a touch of petrol presently dominates the nose. There is a silky mouth feel to the solidly well-concentrated, intense and vibrant middle weight flavors where the underlying mineral component is even more prominent, all wrapped in a gorgeously long finish. This is not quite as refined as the Combettes but there’s just more here.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($349.95) $299 special, 4 bottles available
Burghound 95 points ‘DON’T MISS!’ “There is just enough reduction present to suppress the nose though it seems reasonably clear that it is both ripe and clean. There is superb size, weight and mid-palate density to the mouth coating big-bodied flavors that ooze dry extract that does a fine job of buffering the firm acid spine on the very dry, even saline-infused finish. While I would call this a wine of finesse in the same vein as the Bienvenues, it is relatively fine in the context of the appellation. Either way, this delivers outstanding quality though be aware that it’s going to need plenty of cellar time.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2008 ($349.95) $299 special, 1 bottle available
Domaine Henri Boillot Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($299.95) $249 special, 12 bottles available
Burghound 94 points “This is also notably ripe but the aromas do not run to the exotic as the honeysuckle, apricot, white peach and subtle spice notes are entirely classic. There is an appealing succulence to the delicious, intense and strikingly fine medium-bodied flavors and while there is certainly a sense of focused power present on the long, clean and refined finish, this is essentially a Bienvenues of finesse.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Chaumees, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($84.95) $69 special, 18 bottles available
Burghound 91 points ‘OUTSTANDING’ “This is aromatically quite different from the Embrazées with an exceptionally pure and cool nose that features extract of white orchard fruit, lemon zest, wet stone and subtle spice nuances. There is a sophisticated mouth feel to the generous yet refined middle weight flavors that possess a remarkably well-delineated, even chiseled finish that avoids any hint of austerity.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Embrazees, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($99.95) $79 special, 9 bottles available
Burghound 92 points “An elegant and attractively cool nose of stone, pear and citrus nuances gives way to well-delineated and energetic flavors that terminate in a cuts-like-a-knife and mineral-inflected finish. This is also very dry with fine complexity and almost Chablis-like salinity on the balanced backend.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Embrazees, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($79.95) $69 special, 13 bottles available
Burghound 90 points “A discreet application of oak surrounds the notably ripe aromas of several different yellow orchard fruit scents along with hints of the exotic. There is an appealing succulence to the broad-scaled flavors that manage to retain a fine sense of detail on the lightly mineral-driven, saline and vibrant finish. If this can add a bit more depth with time in the cellar my score may prove to be overly conservative.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Chaumees, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($89.95) $69 special, 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(these 2010s were bottled in January of 2012 after spending three months in cuve): Bright medium yellow. Pear, menthol and a salty nuance on the nose. Rich, ripe and supple but with its fat and sweetness nicely leavened by minerality. Offers a superb combination of volume and sappy, stony persistence.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2010 ($249.95) $199 special, 5 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “Moderate wood frames ripe, dense and expressive yellow orchard fruit that also evidences discreet notes of exotic elements. The equally well-concentrated, powerful and imposingly scaled flavors possess an abundance of palate soaking dry extract, indeed so much so that this displays an almost chewy mouth feel on the massively persistent finish. This is not at present extraordinarily complex though there is so much material that my score offers the benefit of the doubt that it will develop in time as this will need at least a decade to arrive at its peak.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($269.95) $219 special, 10 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “This is notably riper than the Caillerets with overtly exotic dried yellow fruit, spice and floral aromas. There is outstanding richness to the powerful and broad-shouldered flavors that possess a distinctly muscular mouth feel before culminating in an opulent, clean and very dry finish. This retains a fine sense of balance and while there is certainly fine complexity, it isn’t at the same level as displayed by the other grands crus in the range.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2011 ($99.95) $79 special, 19 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Pale, bright yellow-green. Subtle aromas of lemon, vanilla, white flowers and hawthorn. Silky and creamy on the palate, with a fine-grained texture and a touch of salinity. A delicate style of Charmes with an understated, slowly building finish. All in finesse.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Poruzots, Meursault Premier Cru 2011 ($99.95) $75 special, 13 bottles available
Burghound 91 points ‘OUTSTANDING “This is quite floral with additional aromas of white peach, yellow orchard fruit and resin. There is good volume and plenty of power to the sappy and mouth coating medium weight plus flavors that possess fine depth and excellent persistence. This is a big but balanced wine and very Poruzots in character.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Caillerets, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($149.95) $119 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “Another of the more intense wines here, the 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Les Caillerets stands out for its huge, extroverted personality. There is a pure drive and resonance in the aromas and flavors that is quite unusual for the vintage. Expressive yellow stone fruits, smoke and crushed rocks blossom on the large-scaled, muscular finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchere, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($179.95) $149 special, 11 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 (+?) points “Bright pale yellow. Soil-driven aromas of grapefruit, fresh dill and flinty minerality. Dense and brisk on entry, with outstanding grand cru intensity to the lemon and crushed stone flavors. Conveys a strong impression of silex. This boasts the sappiness of the best 2010s and finishes with outstanding stony, citric persistence. Like a slap in the face today, this wine demands at least several years of bottle aging, at which point it may merit an even higher score.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Clos de la Mouchere, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($109.95) $99 special, 4 bottles available
Burghound 94 points ‘DON’T MISS! OUTSTANDING’ “A very mild hint of reduction reduces the expressiveness of the otherwise cool and pure floral, citrus rind, stone and soft spice notes. There is plenty of volume to the rich, intense and mouth coating middle weight flavors that exude a fine minerality on the gorgeously complex, strikingly well-delineated and bone dry finish. This saline-infused and clearly built-to-age effort is spectacular.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($119.95) $99 special, 23 bottles available
Burghound 93 points ‘SWEET SPOT OUTSTANDING’ “(the first vintage of this wine for Boillot, following his recent purchase of this parcel): Pale green-tinged color. Sexy aromas of lemon, lime, ripe stone fruits and hazelnut. Lush and fine-grained, with silky flavors of stone fruits and hazelnut. Can’t quite match the Folatieres for finesse, but this has more volume and power.”
Domaine Henri Boillot Les Perrieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($109.95) $88 special, 7 bottles available
Burghound 93 points ‘SWEET SPOT OUTSTANDING’ “A cool and pure nose features notes of citrus peel, pear, apple, wet stone and white peach. There is a lovely sense of refinement and underlying tension to the medium-bodied flavors that also coat the mouth with plenty of dry extract before culminating a saline mineral-driven finish. This is terrific.”
Louis Jadot Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($319.95) $249 special, 4 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 points “Butter, floral and spice aromas and rich peach and melon flavors come together with the creamy texture in this intense and opulent white. Harmonious and expressive, but this will be even better in two to three years. Offers a lingering, complex aftertaste, where a mineral element emerges. Best from 2016 through 2027.”
John Gilman 95 points “The 2011 Bâtard-Montrachet from Louis Jadot is another brilliant wine in the making, soaring from the glass in a deep and very youthful aromatic blend of apple, lime zest, tangerine, complex soil tones, a touch of iodine and a gentle base of new wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very powerfully-built, with a rock solid core, snappy acids and stunning focus and grip on the very young, structured and magical finish. A very pure and racy example of young Bâtard-Montrachet that has been built to last!…”
Louis Jadot Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($84.95) $69 special, 8 bottles available
John Gilman 93 points “The 2010 Caillerets from Maison Jadot is another excellent premier cru. The deep and very classy nose wafts from the glass in an elegant blend of lemon, pear, apple,spring flowers, a beautiful base of terres blanches and a deft base of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and seamless, with a beautiful core of silky fruit, great intensity of flavor, brisk acids and a very long, pure and classy finish.”
Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot Les Demoiselles Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($399.95) $319 special, 3 bottles available
Burghound 93-95 points “An ultra-pure and high-toned nose of wet stone, spiced pear and acacia blossom and green apple is also trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The markedly stony broad-shouldered and tautly muscular flavors possess almost painful intensity on the crystalline and explosively long finish. 2011 is a vintage where the Demoiselles is bigger than it typically is yet there is absolutely no loss of refinement or elegance.”
Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2011 ($139.95) $119 special, 9 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “Like the Montrachet, this is also presently quite aromatically reticent with its aromas of lemon/lime, wet stone and Granny Smith apples that are trimmed in a subtle application of warm oak. The equally expansive, taut and well-muscled broad-shouldered flavors possess an ample amount of dry extract and intensity on the driving finish that exhibits a faint saline character. I very much like the intensity here as well as the very dry backend and this should be superb if allowed adequate cellar time.”
Domaine des Heritiers Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2010 ($189.95) $129 special, 18 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 96 points “Brilliant pale yellow. Precise, penetrating aromas of green melon, ginger, quinine and dusty stone. Silky on entry, then sappy and deep in the middle, with a powerful crushed stone character and strong limey acidity combining to give the wine uncanny energy. This is almost painful today. This extremely dense, long wine may ultimately surpass Jadot’s Chevalier-Montrachet.”
Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru 2009 ($549.95) $449 special, 4 bottles available
John Gilman 95+ points “The 2009 Jadot Montrachet (which hails from the Chassagne side of the vineyard, by the way) is also exceptional. The nose offers up a great and compelling mélange of apple, white peach, lemon, great minerality, floral tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and superbly structured, with a rock solid core of fruit, beautiful focus and balance, impeccable grip and a very long, racy and refined finish. A wonderful bottle of wine. 2020-2050′
Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($499.95) $419 special, 3 bottles available
Burghound 94-97 points “Here the nose is notably more reserved with aromas of citrus zest, spice, wood toast, fennel and spice hints. This is also a very imposingly-scaled wine with its big, muscular and wonderfully complex flavors that culminate in a long, focused and explosive finish of breathtaking length and intensity. This overtly powerful effort should reward at least a decade in the cellar and drink well for another. A ‘wow’ wine.”
Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 2011 ($59.95) $49 special, 18 bottles available
Burghound 89-91 points “There is enough reduction present to render the nose hard to assess but the underlying fruit appears to be ripe. There is very fine volume and very good mid-palate concentration as the extract really coats the palate while simultaneously buffering the moderately firm acid spine on the seductively textured, clean and attractively dry finish. As is so often the case with this wine, it is an excellent villages and well worth considering.”
Louis Jadot Referts, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Very pale greenish-yellow color. Precise but restrained aromas of white peach, lime and mint. Juicy, firm and pure; not a particularly fat wine but still supple and pliant, showing good energy and lemony cut. Finishes brisk, pristine and floral. A big success in 2011, from vines harvested six days after the Combettes due to very slow ripening. Sexy already.”
Louis Jadot Domaine Gagey Clos des Guettes, Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru 2011 ($41.95) $33 special, 18 bottles available
John Gilman 90 points “The 2011 Clos des Guettes blanc is again a very pretty wine, with that telltale touch of pastry cream on both the nose and palate that indicates the malo was partially blocked here. The stylish and inviting bouquet is a lovely mélange of apple, orange, crème patissière, stony minerality and a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and quite driven by its underlying minerality, with snappy acids and very fine length and grip on the youthful finish. This is very tasty, but will want a year or two in the cellar to fully blossom…”
Louis Jadot Chassagne-Montrachet 2011 ($54.95) $44 special, 25 bottles available
John Gilman 91+ points “The 2011 Jadot white Burgundy village wines are exceptionally strong in this vintage, and the Chassagne AC looks to be the pick of the litter! The deep and excellent bouquet offers up a classic mélange of apple, orange, lime zest, deep soil tones, vanillin oak and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, young and very deep, with a lovely sense of reserve, crisp acids and a very long, poised and laser-like finish of superb length and grip. The domaine has really been making an effort to produce better and better wines at the village wine level and these 2011s show that the effort has really paid off! A superb wine.”
Louis Jadot Meursault 2011 ($49.95) $41.90 special, 15 bottles available
John Gilman 91 points “The 2011 Meursault AC from Maison Jadot was really singing at the time of my visit and should prove to be an admirable value in this vintage. The very stylish nose offers up a complex base of apple, pear, tangerine, lightly-toasted almonds, spring flowers, chalky soil tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with fine focus and backend bounce, a very good core, zesty acids and excellent focus and grip on the very long and well-balanced finish. A fine, fine village wine”
Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Clos de la Marechale Blanc, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2010 ($119.95) $89 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Clos de la Marechale Blanc shows off fabulous balance and cool, insistent minerality. It boasts tremendous energy in its chiseled notes of lemon, crushed rocks and white flowers. The aromas, flavors and minerality are pure Chardonnay but there is a breadth to the wine that is unique and may be related to the fact that the Clos de la Marechale Blanc is made from Chardonnay grafted onto Pinot Noir rootstock. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.”
Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Clos de la Marechale Blanc, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2011 ($119.95) $69 special, 4 bottles available
Burghound 87-89 points “There is enough wood to notice on the otherwise very fresh and pure nose of white peach, pear and soft floral aromas. There is good volume to the very round and rich medium weight flavors that possess good mid-palate concentration and an attractive texture, all wrapped in a lightly mineral-infused finish that offers moderate depth and length. This is very forward and should drink well almost immediately.”
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2010 ($269.95) $199 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94(+?) points “Full bright, pale yellow. White peach, pear and a whiff of orange zest on the nose. The flavors of stone fruits and minerals offer terrific penetration and intensity thanks to superb acidity and the low yield of the year. No easy sweetness about this one! Wonderfully tactile, brisk wine with chewy, saline finishing flavors that resound on the aftertaste. One of two barrels was new in 2010; Boudot made three and a half barrels in the more generous 2011 vintage.”
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Les Combettes, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($129.95) $89 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 (+?) points “Good bright yellow. Ripe, rather powerful aromas of stone fruits, acacia flower and truffle. Dense and silky but also quite vibrant, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the very rich mid-palate. Very tactile, layered 2010 with an impressively long, sweet finish. Give this at least four or five years in the cellar.”
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot La Garenne, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($99.95) $79 special, 10 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Pale bright yellow. Musky aromas of peach, citrus fruits and acacia flower. Juicy, intense and penetrating, with brisk citrus fruits and minerals dominating. Denser and riper than the 2011 version. Excellent acidity here: this vineyard almost always produces a fresh style. A superb vintage for this bottling, finishing very long and perfumed.”
Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Meix Cadot, Rully Premier Cru 2011 ($31.95) $24 special, 12 bottles available
Domaine des Comtes Lafon Les Gouttes d’Or, Meursault Premier Cru2010 ($299.95) $249 special, 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 92+ points “Pale bright yellow. Superripe aromas of pineapple, peach and apricot verge on exotic. Sweet mid-palate fruit is nicely balanced by juicy acidity, which gives lift and a light touch to the peach and pear flavors. Finishes long and perfumed, with noteworthy breed for this bottling. Lovely wine with good aging potential.”
Domaine des Comtes Lafon Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru2009 ($259.95) $219 special, 2 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “Aromatically, this is almost a hypothetical blend of the Genevrières and the Goutte d’Or but here there is even more intensity to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that evidence really lovely purity of expression on the explosive and driving finish. This is clearly a Charmes from the upper part of the vineyard as there is none of the borderline excessive generosity of the lower portion.”
Lucien Le Moine Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($149.95) $129 special, 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Hazy gold. Wild, exotic aromas of smoked meat, clove and minerals. Dense, suave, silky and rich, with an almost painful dryness to the crushed rock and saline mineral flavors. Today this impressively fine-grained wine’s fruit is in the deep background…”
Lucien Le Moine Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($149.95) $133 special, 9 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91-94 points “The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres is going to need serious time to come together. Today, it is the wine’s persistence and textural finesse that stand out most, even if all the elements haven’t fully come together just yet. There is a lot to look forward to here. It will be interesting to see if the wine retains the powerful personality that is on display today, or if further time in barrel tames some of the exuberance.”
Domaine Leroy Bourgogne Blanc Fleurs de Vignes NV ($59.95) $49 special, 1 bottle available
A blend of 2009, 2010 and 2011 vintages.
Lucien Le Moine Abbaye de Morgeot, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($139.95) $119 special, 2 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 92-94 points “The 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot leaves an impression of Pinot-like depth. A broad-shouldered, intense wine, the 2011 boasts tons of class and potential. The flavors remain quite floral and bright, but with plenty of underlying structure. This is going to be a fascinating wine to follow.”
Lucien Le Moine Les Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2011 ($149.95) $125 special, 7 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 92-95 points “Bright beams of minerality run through the 2011 Meursault Charmes. This is without question one of the more focused, structured and tight Charmes of the year. The 2011 boasts remarkable polish in its flavors and texture. A rich, insistent finish rounds things out nicely. There is plenty of potential here, but readers are going to have to be patient.”
Lucien Le Moine Les Genevrieres, Meursault Premier Cru 2011 ($149.95) $133 special, 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Orange oil and a hint of fresh pineapple on the nose; reminded me a bit of a German riesling. Intensely flavored and glyceral too, with sneaky sweetness leavened by ripe pineappley acidity. Very tactile, superconcentrated wine with broad shoulders (Saouma describes it as “a red wine made from chardonnay”) and a seriously palate-saturating finish. These 60-year-old vines always maintain very good acidity, notes Saouma. Exciting potential.”
Domaine Marc Colin et Fils Les Combes, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2011 ($49.95) $39 special, 3+ cases available
Domaine Matrot Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2010 ($84.95) $66 special, 15 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93(+?) points “Good pale yellow. Ripe aromas of peach, fresh apricot and hazelnut; a quintessence of Meursault. Rich, ripe and sweet but framed and energized by a stony mineral underpinning, strong spice notes and a flavor of underripe pineapple. The building, palate-staining finish displays excellent structure and verve. This needs a good eight years of bottle aging. As with the Perrieres 2010, the yields here were tiny (22 h/h) owing to millerandage, noted Matrot.”
Domaine Matrot Meursault Les Chevalieres 2011 375ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 1 half-bottle available
Domaine Matrot Meursault Les Chevalieres 2011 ($44.95) $37 special, 26 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points “Ripe fresh apricot and marzipan on the nose, along with a mineral component. Juicy, spicy and minerally; more taut and less fat than the basic village offering. Showing its oak but finishes with good cut and grip.”
Domaine Michelot Meursault Les Narvaux 2007 ($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer & Wine Advocate 89 points “Pale color. Sweet peachy aroma shows good lift. Peach, licorice and iodine flavors are nicely framed by ripe acidity and supported by lively minerality. Showed intriguing nuances of tarragon and saffron with aeration.” ST
Domaine de Montille Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2009 ($189.95) $119 special, 1 bottle available
Burghound 93 points “Not surprisingly, this offers a big step up in aromatic elegance with its aromas of dried acacia blossom, citrus rind, spice and wet stone where the latter element also characterizes the supple, round and intense medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent complexity and genuinely striking length. This very classy effort should age well over the medium-term.”
Domaine de Montille Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($169.95) $119 special, 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Pale, green-tinged yellow. Ripe yellow fruits and acacia blossom on the nose. Rich, ripe and sweet, with apricot, peach and spice flavors framed by lively acidity. A strong powdered stone quality gives this very juicy wine an impression of chewiness without weight. Savory and very long on the finish. Offers outstanding potential.”
Olivier Leflaive Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2009 ($129.95) $95 special, 2 bottles available
Burghound 91 points “Here too there is a faint whisper of sulfur that I suspect will be successfully absorbed in due course. Otherwise there is good freshness and refinement to the supple and fleshy yet well-detailed mineral-inflected flavors that possess a clean, dry, focused and solidly persistent finale.”
Olivier Leflaive Les Folatieres, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($119.95) $99 special, 5 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “A discreet touch of wood frames an elegant and quite pretty nose of lemon, stone, pear and floral scents that gives way to exceptionally rich yet attractively well-detailed medium-bodied flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel. There is excellent cut and punch to the lingering finish and overall, this is really very stylish.”
Philippe Colin Les Chenevottes, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2010 ($84.95) $69 special, 13 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93+ points “Bright straw-yellow. Complex, expressive aromas of pear, fresh peach and spices; much fruitier than the Vergers. A rich, dense orchard-fruit-and-spice bomb with terrific acid lift to buffer its sweetness. This tastes sweeter than the Vergers. Finishes broad, powerful and long, with resounding floral character.”
Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet 2010 ($64.95) $51.90 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “(the only 2010 that was bottled before the 2011 harvest; the rest were bottled between January and March of this year): Bright lemon-yellow. Lemon, peach, pear and wet stone on the nose, plus a hint of toast. Offers impressive tension and penetration for village wine, with sweet white peach and lemon peel fruit flavors building nicely on the vibrant finish. Quite rich but youthfully imploded: I’d give this at least two or three years in the cellar.”
Domaine de La Pousse d’Or Le Cailleret, Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru 2009 ($189.95) $119 special, 6 bottles available
Burghound 92 points “A deft touch of wood frames lemon and moderately exotic fruit aromas that include peach, mango and pear. There is excellent richness to the full-bodied, dense and mineral-inflected flavors that culminate in a naturally sweet, sappy and generous finish. This delicious effort is blessed with plenty of dry extract and while not classic in character, it’s really quite attractive all the same.”
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($449.95) $319 special, 2 bottles available
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 11 1.5 L ($899.95) $699 special, 1 magnum available
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 11 ($449.95) $339 special, 6 bottles available
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Montrachet Grand Cru 2011 ($899.95) $699 special, 1 bottle available
Burghound 93-96 points “This is even less expressive than the Chevalier though the underlying fruit is clearly fresh and ripe with mostly citrus and floral aromas. This is exceptionally well-concentrated with fine phenolic ripeness to the very broad-shouldered flavors that possess outstanding power if not quite the intensity or the minerality of the Chevalier. The explosive and bone dry finish compensates however by being even longer and more complex. Overall, the two wines are qualitative equals, at least at this very early juncture though their respective personalities are quite different. Once again, plenty of patience will be required.”
Nicolas Potel Maison Roche de Bellene Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2009 ($199.95) $159 special, 12 bottles available
Thomas Morey Clos Saint-Jean, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru 2011 ($79.95) $66 special, 8 bottles available
Burghound 91 points “An exceptionally fresh, cool and airy nose exhibits both white and yellow orchard fruit along with soft floral and mineral hints where the latter element is also reflected by the impressively rich yet solidly energetic and well-detailed flavors. I like the sense of refinement to the mouth coating and focused finish that delivers fine persistence and lovely balance. A quality white from an appellation that is quite rightly better known for its reds.”
Domaine Aurelien Verdet Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits Le Prieure Blanc 2010 ($39.95) $33 special, 7 bottles available
Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cotes du Jura Chardonnay 2011 ($24.95) $21.90 special, 22 bottles available
Importer Note “100% Chardonnay, 17 year old vines. Gravel and marl soil. A pure Chardonnay that speaks clearly of the Jura region. It is barrel-aged for 12 months in principally neutral barrels (the % of new oak varies from 8 to 16%), according to classic methods with topping up to avoid oxidation. The wine is fresh, pure Chardonnay with the distinct notes of the Jura terroir or earth and hay. Serve it with poultry or veal associated with mushrooms, and cheese. “Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Cotes du Jura En Barberon Chardonnay 2010 ($39.95) $33 special, 14 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-92 points “Tasted assembled in tank, whence it was not due to have been bottled any sooner than this spring, the Tissot 2010 Cotes du Jura Chardonnay En Barberon delivers a fascinating and head-turning amalgam of citrus, apple, and resinous herbs, with saliva-inducing, sweet and saline savor that seems to marry elements of oyster liquor and fresh scallop. Grown in the commune of Brery on chalky soils reminiscent of those in Chateau Chalon, this Chardonnay of refined texture, subtly complex, and combining richness with lift, is likely to merit a decade if not longer attention span.”Benedicte & Stephane Tissot Cotes du Jura En Barberon Chardonnay 2011 ($39.95) $33 special, 10 bottles available
Wine Spectator 90 points “Well- focused, with a light hazelnut frame that lends a firm edge to the core of melon, apple, pear and ginger. A hint of bitter almond extends the finish. Chardonnay. Drink now through 2014.”