Vinopolpick Friday Newsletter 09-10-21

 

 

Weekend New Arrivals

 

Oregon

 

Cameron Winery Reserve Chardonnay Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($39.95) $36 special,

Winery Note: “The ‘Reserve’ level of Cameron Chardonnay is an incredible deal.  Made of declassified barrels of Clos Electrique and Abbey Ridge, so without the new oak that the lower level bottling sees, this wine shows facets of the grace and intensity of Abbey and the Clos without the price tag of those higher end bottlings.”

 

 

Germany

 

Julian Haart ‘Moselle’ Riesling Mosel 2020 750ML ($33.95) $27 special, 12 bottles in stock now

Importer note “The Moselle Riesling comes essentially from the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, with in addition grapes from the Wintricher Ohligsberg and Piesporter Gu¨nterslay, and was fermented down to barely off-dry levels of residual sugar.”

 

 

Weiser-Kuenstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Auslese Mosel 2020 375ML ($47.95) $39 special, 6 bottles in stock now

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

 

Weiser-Kuenstler Enkircher Ellergrub Riesling Spatlese Mosel 2020 750ML ($49.95) $44 special, 3 bottles in stock now

 

 This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 

 

Weingut Kunstler Riesling Feinherb Rheingau 2020 750ML ($27.95) $26 special, 4 bottles in stock now

Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “The Riesling Weiser-Künstler, as it is referred to on the main label (the reference to the vintage is left for the back label), is a barely off-dry wine (with 15 g/l of residual sugar) made from Estate’s holdings and from grapes sourced at a befriended organic grower in the Enkircher Steffensberg. It offers a stunning and pure nose which screams Mosel as beautifully scents of freshly cut flowers, white peach, a dash of whipped cream, a hint of blood orange, and slate emerge from the glass. The wine proves delicately off dry on the delicious and well-balanced palate and leaves a subtly ample feel of ripe fruits, zest of citrusy fruits, slate, and smoke. This is a truly remarkable Estate wine! Now-2030.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

 

Weiser-Kuenstler Trarbacher Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett Mosel, 2020 ($31.95) $27, 6 bottles in stock now

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 

 

 

Weiser-Kuenstler Trarbacher Riesling Trocken Mosel 2020 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 12 bottles in stock now

 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 

 

Wein-Erbhof Stein Palmberg Alte Reben Kabinett Trocken Mosel 2020 750M ($37.95) $33 special, 12 bottles in stock now

 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 

 

Wein-Erbhof Stein St Aldegunder Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Mosel 2020 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 12 bottles in stock now

 

 

Chile

 

Concha y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto 2018 750ML ($139.95) $108 special, 17 bottles in stock now

James Suckling 100 points “This is amazing. The vibrancy and energy in this wine is stunning. The complexity of aromas are breathtaking with flowers, blackcurrants, raspberries and peaches. Full-bodied, yet ever so refined and polished with impeccable texture and beauty. The length is marvelous. This is a testimony to balance, harmony and transparency in a great red. Drink after 2023.”

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Fresh off the Botti: Vietti’s 2017 Barolos

 

“Vietti was founded by Carlo Vietti in the late 1800s and is based in Castiglione Falletto. Alfredo Currado married Luciana Vietti and is largely responsible for the resurrection of the Arneis grape. Today the estate is led by Luca Currado Vietti and his wife Elena. In 2016, the estate was purchased by Krause Holdings, which has enabled Luca and Elena to continue their roles while enabling them to support growth.” – Jeb Dunnuck

 

These are the “Grand Cru” of the Barolo reigion, and are examples of the best sites under the Vietti’s spade. Organically farmed across the board, these wines offer a fantastic snapshot of Barolo’s terroir and style diversity while still demonstrating a definitive “House style”. Highly collectible on account of the limited amounts made, these are infants in the bottle that promise decades of enjoyment after they shed their baby fat.  

 

 

Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 4 bottles in stock now

Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Sourced from an average of 54-year-old vines in Brunate of La Morra, the 2017 Barolo Brunate was aged for 32 months in large oak cask and barriques. It offers brooding aromas of licorice, dried currant, and cedar. Congruent on the palate with mineral-rich turned earth, there is a firmly built structure with balance. Drink 2024-2050.”

Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2017 Barolo Brunate is a powerful, brooding wine. Huge dark fruit, leather, spice, menthol and dried herbs all build in a potent Barolo that is enshrouded by tannins. The 2017 is going to need quite a bit of time in the cellar. Today, it is very much a brooding powerhouse. Dark wild cherry, licorice, tar, menthol and spice take shape in the glass, but the 2017 is clearly an infant, and an unruly one at that.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

 

Vietti Lazzarito Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 17 bottles in stock now

Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “From the southwest facing amphitheater of Lazzarito in Serralunga d’Alba the 2017 Barolo Lazzarito was aged for 30 months in a combination of large oak casks and barrique. The nose is layered with elegant spice and floral notes of cedar, red plum, and brushed leather. There is incredible balance within its structure, which has deceptive ease for early drinking. Hold 3-5 years or drink 2023-2046.”

Antonio Galloni 95 points “Vietti’s 2017 Barolo Lazzarito is absolutely gorgeous. Whatever the challenges of the growing season, they appear to have been no problem here. More than anything else, the Lazzarito impresses with its magnificent depth and stature. Super-ripe red fruit, white pepper, mint, tobacco, cured meat, spice and rose petal open gradually with time in the glass. I would not be in a rush to open bottles anytime soon. The Lazzarito has been one of the most improved wines at Vietti for a number of years. The 2017 is so captivating.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

 

Vietti Ravera Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 8 bottles in stock now

Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “Located in Novello, from three hectares of the Ravera MGA with southwest exposure, the 2017 Barolo Ravera was aged for 32 months in large oak casks. It is forward and expressive with fresh pine, candied cranberry, orange oil, and aniseed. The palate is full of energetic tension, balance, and purity, with apricot pit, tea leaf and saline minerality. An inspiring wine to close out the Vietti 2017 lineup. Drink 2025-2050.”

Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2017 Barolo Ravera is a powerhouse. My impression is that the 2017 is going to develop into something truly special. It has all the energy that makes this site so distinctive, but with an extra kick of fruit density and a whole range of exotic aromatics that make for a truly drop dead gorgeous wine. Bright red/purplish fruit, rose petal, chalk and white pepper build into a finish laced with searing intensity. This is such and impressive wine.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

 

                     

Vietti Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2017 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2017 Barolo Rocche di Castiglione shows all the signatures of this site, all turned up to the maximum. I am not sure I have ever tasted a Vietti Castiglione with this much heft. Super-ripe dark red fruit, rose petal, mocha, dried herbs and menthol all build in an ample, resonant Barolo. Readers should be prepared to cellar the 2017 for the next handful of years, perhaps longer. A whole range of floral and savory notes punctuates the explosive finish.”

Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Aged for 30 months in large oak casks, the 2017 Barolo Rocche Di Castiglione is sourced from old vines planted in 1940, 1950, and 1968 with southeastern exposure. It has a soft perfume of kirsch, fresh rose petal, and fragrant rosemary. The palate is fresh and inviting with fine tannins and noted by anise, pomegranate, and dusty earth. It is pleasurable now or hold 3-5 years and drink 2023-2036.”

 

Also In Stock Now:

 

Vietti Lazzarito Barolo DOCG 2016 750ML ($299.95) $199 special, 11 bottles in stock now

Antonio Galloni 98 points “The 2016 Barolo Lazzarito is another stunning wine in this range. The 2016 is the first vintage of the Lazzarito I can remember tasting in which intensely mineral notes accompany the more savory, earthy notes that are so typical of this site. Graphite, sage, dried flowers, crushed rocks, menthol, dried rose petal, mint, licorice and blood orange race out of the glass in a breathtaking, towering Barolo that hits all the right notes from the start to its chiseled, strikingly detailed finish. The 2016 Lazzarito is one of the most classically austere wines in this range. In a word: Magnificent.”

Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 98 points “Drawing its fruit from Serralunga d’Alba, the Vietti 2016 Barolo Lazzarito is built like a pyramid. It is grounded by a thick base of robust fruit and power and soars upward in intensity thanks to its beautifully lifted bouquet. It reveals direct and solid lines with blackberry, plum, spice, tar, licorice, candied orange peel and truffle-infused earth. A second wave of aromas offers dark minerals and ferrous qualities such as iron ore and rust. Barolo from Serralunga d’Alba are often in a category apart thanks to their richness and sheer fruit weight. With extra aeration, Lazzarito delivers mint, balsam herb or Fernet-Branca. Production is 9,293 bottles and 300 magnums. This is the finest, most complete set of wines I have ever tasted from Vietti. Congratulations.”

Wine Spectator 95 points “Juniper, sage, green tea, cherry and tar flavors mark this savory red, which is rich, backed by a bracing structure, yet remains balanced and long on the finish. Very pure and vibrant, with a fine matrix of tannins. Best from 2024 through 2043.”

 

Rose Feature:

 

Calabretta is one of our favorite producers of Sicilian wine in house. Their commitment to chemical free farming, stewarding old vines and meticulous winemaking is evident in every bottle of wine they make. Their rosato is no different, and is made from ungrafted vines planted directly into the lava rock of Mt. Etna.

The high elevation, intense sunshine and marginal soils create an incredible expression of rose filled to the brim with blood orange, watermelon pulp, Seville orange, savory minerality and rosemary smoke. This is one of the few rose’s in the global market that will improve with age, taking on notes of marmalade and white tea.   

 

In stock now:  

Calabretta Rosato Sicily 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18.50, 13 bottles in stock now

Winery Note: Rosato: it comes from young vines just planted in the Calderara Sottana district from a rigorous mass selection and, in part, in piedmont. Vinified according to the traditional fermentation “Pista & Mutta”, ie the must is pressed (piste) and immediately decanted (mutta), therefore in the absence of pomace there will be less tannins and less color. It was the wine that the farmers made for themselves and that they could drink after a few months. Fruity, floral, full-bodied. Dedicated to the ancient methods of winemaking.

 

You’d be forgiven if you have never heard of Domaines Bunan, as their wines rarely leave the French Riviera where they’re made. The domaine was founded in 1961 by a pair of brothers, Paul and Pierre Bunan when they purchased the Chateau of Le Castellet in the village of the same name. Located on the terraces above the port of Bandol called Moulin des Costes, the Chateau dates back to the 18th century and has been farmed organically since the founding of the Domaine. Comprised of a mix of Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvigion and a splash of Ugni Blanc this is meant to walk the line between the wine styles of Bandol and Provence, encompassing both fruity texture and refreshing minerality.

 

In stock now:

 

Domaine Bunan Cotes de Provence Belouve Rose France 2019 750ML ($21.95) $17 special, 10 bottles in stock now

Winery note “Cinsault 60%, Cabernet Sauvignon 30%, Ugni blanc 10%. Pale salmon pink hue. Elegant and fruity nose revealing aromas of citrus fruits. A direct and harmonious wine. A crunchy rosé with a clean attack elongated by lingering fruity notes. Pair with fish, shellfish, lamb, white meats, spicy dishes.”     

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

 

Domaine Bunan Cotes de Provence Belouve Rose France 2020 750ML ($24.95) $18 special, 29 bottles in stock now

Winery note “Cinsault : 60% Cabernet Sauvignon : 30% Ugni blanc : 10%. Nose and palate: Pale salmon pink hue. Elegant and fruity nose revealing aromas of citrus fruits. A direct and harmonious wine. A crunchy rosé with a clean attack elongated by lingering fruity notes.”

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

Magnum Feature: Arterberry Maresh

 

You would be hard pressed to find a more definitively Oregonian producer than Arterberry Maresh. With their home estate in the Dundee Hills being one of the oldest vineyards in the State, let alone the appellation this is one of the “Founding Families” of Oregon Pinot Noir but isn’t spoken about as much as their compatriots Erath, Ponzi and Eyrie.

 

This could be on account of the production volumes, which remain small to this day even with bottlings comprised of fruit from outside the estate. Organic, Dry-Farmed, and with an average vine age of 45 years old the Arterberry Maresh vineyard is one of the Dundee Hills crown jewels. We managed to secure some of their library released 2014 Pinot Noir’s, one of the best vintages ever seen in Oregon wine history.

 

Expect the quintessential Dundee character of cherry cola, freshly ground coffee and turned loam that’s accentuated by a full spectrum of blueberry, bing cherry, and dried cranberry. Secondary and tertiary characters are just starting to become evident with a beautiful plethora of white truffle, Tahitian vanilla, cremini mushroom, dried rose petal and black pearl tea. Being in a magnum format, there’s no rush to drink this even at it approaching 7 years old.

 

In stock now:

 

Arterberry Maresh Pinot Noir Dundee Hills 1.5L ($169.95) $139 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2014 Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir has a beautiful bouquet with wonderful precision. The vine age does show through here (44-years-old now) with crisp detailed red berry fruit that just exudes Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well-judged acidity, touches of truffle and undergrowth tincturing the red berry fruit that fans out wonderfully towards the long and satisfying finish. This is a great Pinot Noir from an estate that seems to have thrived in 2014.”

Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Dark red. Intensely perfumed, spice-accented strawberry, cherry liqueur and incense aromas show excellent clarity and a bright mineral overtone. Taut, nervy and focused in the mouth, offering alluringly sweet red fruit, blood orange and rose pastille flavors that deepen and spread out slowly with air. An impressively persistent finish is framed by subtle tannins and emphatically echoes the floral and mineral notes. This wine’s interplay of power and finesse is really impressive.”    

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Also by Arterberry Maresh, in stock now: 

 

Arterberry Maresh Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills 2017 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 4 bottles in stock now

Josh Raynolds – Vinous 96 points “Light, bright straw-yellow. A powerfully scented nose evokes fresh honeydew melon, Meyer lemon, iodine and white flowers, and a minerally nuance builds as the wine stretches out. Sappy, concentrated and penetrating on the palate, offering vibrant orchard and citrus fruit and honeysuckle flavors and suggestions of brioche, sweet butter and iodine. A dusty mineral element adds energizing lift and cut to a wonderfully long, juicy, sharply delineated finish that leaves behind a suave floral note.”

Erin Brooks – Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2017 Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard comes from vines planted in 1983. It takes its time to reveal mushroom, tree bark, raw almonds and honeycomb aromas with a core of apple pie and white peaches with a very savory, spicy undercurrent. The medium-bodied palate explodes with flavor layers and lively acidity, finishing incredibly long and minerally. This is stunning!” 

 

Arterberry Maresh Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard Dundee Hills 2018 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 4 bottles in stock now

Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2018 Chardonnay Maresh Vineyard manages power and elegance, with gunflint notes that flush out to pure roasted almonds, saline, white flowers and apple fruit on the nose. The palate offers intense, savory flavor layers in an elegant, satin-like frame, with dynamic acidity and a long, ethereal finish. This has the flesh and structure to age very well in bottle.”

 

Arterberry Maresh Eola Amity Chardonnay 2018 750ML ($21.95) $17 special, 15 bottles in stock now

Winery note “Young vine Wente selection Chardonnay (CH72). Handpicked and whole-cluster-pressed, fermentation took place in 20% new French oak, 20% stainless steel and 60% neutral oak. After 9 months of aging in 228L barrels, the wine was finished in stainless steel drums for 2 months on fine lees. Lightly fined and filtered, it was bottled with DIAM cork.”

 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 

Trending

 

How well do you know the Crus of Beaujolais? Located on the western end of the region, the cru of Regnie is the youngest of the 10. Comprised of a single square mile however, it is one of the smallest and highest regarded. This is attributable to a number of factors with the primary being the high average elevation for vineyards (Often at 1,000+ feet above sea level), majority percentage of pink granite in the soil and widespread organic and biodynamic farming practices.

 

These reasons can be best exemplified by the work of Jean-Michel Dupre and his picturesque estate. Inherited from his family, the site features mostly old-vine Gamay with the oldest exceeding 100 years old. As one can expect with such providence, his wines feature incredible depth and aromatic power while still remaining light on its feet. Red and Black fruits abound including Italian plum, strawberry and redcurrant. The fruit profile is bolstered by pervasive granitic character that adds a crushed stone element to the aromas and a savory finish.

 

In stock now:

 

Domaine Jean-Michel Dupre Regnie Vignes de 1948 Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 6 bottles in stock now

Have you ever wondered what wines resembled thousands of years ago before the Industrial Revolution and Phylloxera? What about if you took the process of rose, but substituted white and grey wine grapes instead of using red? Enter one of the oldest forms of winemaking on earth: Orange wine. Native to Eastern Europe and small parts of northeastern Italy, the style dates back over 5,000 years and utilized local grape varietals and ceramic fermentation vessels. The process results in a wine that ranges from deep gold, to various shades of saffron and carrot orange, hence the name.

Due to the inclusion of skin and seed tannin, these are wines that are built with aging potential with an evolution in the bottle that’s entirely unique to the style. “Pulp” is sourced entirely from Grenache Gris grapes, a mutation that only occurs in vines at least 55 years of age. In this case the vines are 65 years old from Moulin’s home estate in Corbieres. Expect a slightly tannic and citrus driven profile that gives you baskets of citron, yuzu and orange peel and a dense texture that speaks to the limestone soil it was grown in. 

Vieux Moulin Orange Pulp, France 2020 750ML ($26.95) $21.90, 10 bottles in stock now

Importer note “100% skin contact Grenache gris. 100% destemmed. Maceration for one month in tank. Fermentation under temperature control in steel vats. 100% malo. No filtration. No SO2 added.”

Beerenauslese

The system for classifying wine in Germany remains a metaphorical “white whale” for many aficionados and professionals alike. The difficult pronunciations, intimidating descriptions and bewildering intersection of merchant consortiums and the German State make it a challenge to learn. Wines are classified by their oechsle, a level of sugar that’s measured by a hydrometer (As opposed to Brix as used in the United States or Baume in the rest of Europe).

If that wasn’t complicated enough the higher the oechsle comes a higher level of regulation, oftentimes making them the best examples of German wine as a result. When examining Beerenauslese and it’s close sibling, Trockenbeerenauslese the only difference is often botrytis cinera (Noble Rot) exposure. Both feature high levels of natural sugar at the time of harvest, with Trockenbeerenauslese usually being the sweeter of the two as a result of the dehydration that occurs with Botrytis. However that is producer dependent, with producers like Dönnhoff electing to isolate botrytis affected for Trockenbeerenauslese production and others not making that distinction. Across the board these are wines with medium plus to high acid that are leveled with honeyed and candied fruit profiles in line with considerable amounts of residual sugar. Aromas and finishes are oftentimes pervasive and nuanced; featuring notes of pineapple, saffron, candied ginger, candy cap mushroom and toffee. These are among the “Immortal Wines of the World” not unlike vintage Port, Tokaji, Amarone and Klein Constantia with an unlimited aging potential in the best years. Check out our selection today, these are among the most endangered wine styles on the planet in light of climate change and consumer trends.                

In stock now:

Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Beerenauslese Nahe 2011 375ML ($199.95) $149 special, 5 bottles in stock now

Wine Advocate 96 points “Intriguingly musky and subtly fungal as well as piercing in its evocation of distilled pit fruits and botanicals, the nose of Donnhoff’s 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Beerenauslese – which was picked alongside its Auslese counterpart – promises an intense palate experience that the wine very much delivers. Distilled extracts of wormwood, woodruff and anisette; maraschino and serviceberry seem to lace the amalgam of quince jelly with pear and white peach nectars in a lusciously multi-layered yet animated palate performance. A spicy and tropical suggestion of mango chutney compounds the vibrantly penetrating effect of pungent herbal and pit fruit essences in a tonsil-gripping, mouth-shaking finish.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Beerenauslese Nahe 2015 375ML ($179.95) $138 special, 12 bottles in stock now

John Gilman 95 points “The 2015 Hermannshöhle BA is still a baby and was in its primary stage of development, but this will clearly be a great wine as well. The bouquet offers up scents of baked apple, tangerine, a touch of papaya, gentle smokiness, orange oil and honey. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, bright and very, very deep, with great focus and grip, a very long, perfectly balanced and nascently complex finish. This will of course be approachable from the moment that it is released, but I would strongly suggest giving it at least four or five years in the cellar to allow it to start to really blossom and show some of the secondary layers of complexity that will come with bottle age. 2016-2075+.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Beerenauslese Nahe 2018 375ML ($299.95) $189 special, 18 bottles in stock now

John Gilman 100 points “The grapes for this non-botrytized BA were harvested at the beginning of November this year. The wine is utterly brilliant, offering up a pure and complex nose of white cherries, mango, pineapple, salty minerality, apple blossoms and a topnote of honeycomb. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, bottomless and amazingly vibrant and precise, with racy acids, truly stunning minerality for a BA and great length and grip on the perfectly balanced finish. This is breathtakingly beautiful! 2019-2100. 100.”

Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2018 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Beerenauslese is from grapes that were reserved for Eiswein. Picked in November, when the hope for ice wine had died, this is a highly concentrated yet pure and spicy-aromatic BA with some volatile notes on the nose. Rich and sweet on the palate, this is a sweet yet pure and salty-piquant, playful and tensioned BA of great class and concentration. This is very clear and piquant and concentrated with healthy, botrytis-free berries. Still Riesling and surely Brücke and doubtlessly great, with a laser-like precision and definition. Fabulous. Tasted in July 2019.”

David Schildknecht-Vinous 96 points “After, as usual, a small share of Brücke had been left for Eiswein, a tiny bit of botrytis finally showed up. Given Dönnhoff’s reputation for Brücke Eiswein, it’s not surprising that the most promising bunches were the ones that got spared the initial Auslese picking. On November 22 there was a forecast of frost, and the estate’s elite Eiswein crew was alerted to show up at daybreak. But the Ice Man evidently failed to get that message. “And at that point,” related Dönnhoff, “I just said ‘Basta! [Schluss!] Everything gets picked this morning!’” There is a lightly confectionary note here born not just of high residual sugar but also, I suspect, of the brush with frost. (Why freezing often engenders such an impression, I can’t say.) Red raspberry and quince preserves with a crystalline sugary edge and a hint of caramel seem also to be dusted with crushed stone, saliva-inducing mineral salts and whatever mysterious ore-like matter it is that informs this collection’s other Hermannshöhle bottlings. For all of its confitured and confectionary aspects, the fruit also comes off as lusciously succulent, not to mention impeccably pure. A polished and subtly creamy feel adds further allure, and the superbly sustained finish is mouthwateringly umami-rich. This is certainly one late-picked 2018 that doesn’t disappoint! But I imagine the firming and acid-concentrating effect of low temperatures (albeit 2020here near low enough to have frozen the grape solids) counteracted any sense of fruit fatigue or sagging berry skins such as is conveyed by so many late-picked 2018s.”

Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Riesling Beerenauslese  Gold Capsule*** Mosel 375ML ($99.95) $89 special, 17 bottles in stock now

Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 99 points “The 2017 Riesling Erdener Treppchen Beerenauslese shows a beautiful nose of white and juicy peaches intermixed with a delicate and crunchy slate aroma. What precision, finesse and purity here! The palate is correspondingly lush, highly refined and endlessly salty, with tickling crystalline acidity. A fabulous, precise and weightless Beerenauslese of great class and style. Tasted at the domain in April 2019.”

Mosel Fine Wines 97 points “The 2017er Erdener Treppchen Beerenauslese (Golden Capsule) offers a gorgeous nose of strawberry, coconut cream, almond paste and earthy elements. The wine is comparatively slender on the delicately oily palate but leaves a stunning feel of almond, grapefruit and ripe pear in the precise and pure finish. The whole thing finishes on the powerful side but everything is focused and superbly precise. This is a stunning BA in the making. 2027-2057.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

 

Markus Molitor Kinheimer Hubertuslay Riesling Beerenauslese Golden Capsule Mosel 2017 375ML ($99.95) $89 special, 32 bottles in stock now

Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 99 points “The 2017 Riesling Kinheimer Hubertuslay Beerenauslese is very concentrated and fresh and needs time to open up and unfold its flavors. Salty-piquant and terribly fresh on the palate, this is another exciting discovery from the Hubertuslay, a former highly regarded cru that Molitor has brought back onto the track of the Mosel’s finest terroirs. His 2017 BA is, of course, sweet and concentrated but also stunningly precise and fresh, crystalline and salty and reveals great energy and finesse. It’s a gorgeous wine and almost too good to be true. Tasted at the domain in April 2019.”

Mosel Fine Wines 96+ points “The 2017er Kinheimer Hubertuslay Beerenauslese (Golden Capsule) offers a hugely complex and big nose of pear, grapefruit, orange blossom, candied pineapple and fine spices. The wine is beautifully playful and superbly precise on the palate, where gorgeous fruity and exotic flavors of pear, mango and apricot mingle with some almond paste and minerals. The finish is long, suave and above all very precise. Sweetness still dominates the after-taste. But give this beauty ideally more than a decade and it will prove utterly irresistible. 2032-2067.”

 

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Arriving ETA November

Markus Molitor Kinheimer Hubertuslay Riesling Beerenauslese Mosel Golden Capsule 2019 375ML ($99.95) $79 special, 12 bottles pre-arrival special

Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 95 points “The white-golden colored 2019 Kinheimer Hubertuslay Beerenauslese offers a deep, intense and concentrated bouquet with ripe and flinty-scented raisin and lemon aromas. Lush and round on the refined and elegant palate, this is a sensual, mouth-filling yet delicate BA with vivacious yet fine acidity and a long and stimulating, salty and highly seductive finish. 6.5% alcohol. Tasted in May 2021”

Check out our full selection of Beerenauslese online today!

Never Enough Nero: The Crown Jewel of Sicily

Looking for a wine that hits the same notes as Cabernet Sauvignon but with a distinctive Sicilian flair? Nero D’ Avola would like to make your acquaintance. Known also as Calabrese and often called “The Cabernet of Sicily” Nero d Avola was originally brought to the island by Greek settlers in the 8th century. Now commanding a large portion of the island’s red production, you see a tremendous style diversity based on producer, cultivation style and site.

 

Overall however you can expect a medium to full bodied red that delivers a spectrum of red, purple and black fruits with layered aromas of botanicals and minerals. Tannin and structure trend towards being robust and bold that rewards food pairings with richer food.We carry a number of producers in house that demonstrate a snapshot of Nero D’Avola’s character, ranging from the western cost of Marsala, to the eastern village of Pachino and the central breadbasket of Agrigento. 

Located only 12 miles from the ocean, Caruso has been making wine since the late 1800’s. However it wasn’t until the 1990’s did they ever bottle their own wine, previously contracting out to the cooperatives of Marsala. With holdings encompassing almost 300 acres at almost 1000 feet above sea level these are some of the best examples of “New Sicily” winemaking and production.

The elevation combined with the breeze coming from the Tyrrhenian Sea mitigates the otherwise sweltering conditions and reduces disease pressure. Caruso’s Nero D’ Avola features the classic black cherry, strawberry, star anise, sage and cocoa flavors with a bright acidity that keeps everything medium bodied and fresh.

 

Caruso & Minini Naturalmente Bio Nero d’Avola Sicilia Sicily 2019 ($21.95) $18 special, 20 bottles in stock now

Kerin O’Keefe Wine Enthusiast 88 points “Made with organic grapes, this has aromas of ripe black-skinned berry, new leather and crushed Mediterranean herb. On the medium-bodied palate, polished tannins accompany ripe Marasca cherry, star anise and a hint of carob. Bright acidity keeps it fresh. Drink through 2022.

 

Also from Marsala but from the plains closer to the sea, Donnafugata grows a Nero D’ Avola as well. The difference in site and practices is reflective in the wine, with their iteration being more plush and rounded in a way that speaks to a warmer growing season. There’s also a spice character not unlike black pepper on the finish that accentuates the plum and sour cherry beautifully. The lower acid as a result from the warmer site also accentuates the soft tannins, without compromising freshness.   

 

In stock now:

 

Donnafugata Sherazade Sicilia IGT Sicily 2018 750ML ($24.95) $18 special, 18 bottles in stock now

Ian D’Agata-Vinous 91 points “Bright deep red. Very perfumed and precise nose of violets, black cherry and delicate herbs. Then juicy and fresh, with outstanding sugar-acid-tannin balance on the crisp, long and lively finish. Delicious, lovely medium-bodied, very fresh red that can take a little chilling. Maybe the best Sherazade ever.”

Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 90 points “Aromas of mature dark-skinned berry and Mediterranean scrub lead the nose on this 100% Nero d’Avola. The bright palate delivers blackberry jam, star anise and white pepper alongside pliant tannins.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Gulfi represents the best of Sicily’s new generation of winemakers, and is a champion of indigenous Sicilian varietals and growing practice. This is exemplified by his work with Nero D’Avola, which he farms without any chemical input, mechanized farming or even irrigation! Exclusively using the Sicilian bushvine for production and biodynamic farming practices, Gulfi is critically undervalued to say the least. Across their portfolio of Nero D’Avola, there is a pervasive minerality, clean aromatics and nuanced finishes to each wine that is unlike anything you experience in an example from Marsala or Agrigento. This is on account of the protection and shadow provided by the Iblei Mountains of Southeastern Sicily, which encourages a phenolic driven course of ripening.

In stock now:

Gulfi Nerobaronj Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 35 bottles in stock now

CASE-6 Gulfi Nerobaronj Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($199.95) $159 special (That’s only $26.50 per bottle!)

Ian D’agata – Vinous 93+ points “Good full medium red. Riveting high-pitched perfume of raspberry, blood orange and violet, lifted by hints of lemon and talc. Clean, focused, and well delineated, with strong minerality and fresh spices lifting the raspberry fruit and very floral flavors. Easygoing and very drinkable already, this expresses a very silky texture. Finishes vibrant and very long, with subtle perfume of strawberry and violet. A pretty wine.”

Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special, 29 bottles in stock now

CASE-6 Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($299.95) $237 special, (That’s only $39.50 per bottle!)

Ian D’agata-Vinous 96+ points “Luminous deep red. Aromas of red cherry, minerals, Oriental spices and vanilla on the refined nose. Then luscious, rich, deep and multilayered with spices, herbs and aromatic oak notes dominating the underlying red and spicy flavors beneath. Finishes long but with less than the usual nectar-like quality that typifies this cru; undoubtedly, a much more elegant version of Nerobufaleffj, a wine that often reaches Amarone-like levels of richness and lusciousness. This very young wine is a potential knockout; still brooding and folded upon itself; it’s a beauty that requires time in your cellar, and watch it develop into something special.”

Gulfi Neromaccarj Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now

Case-6 Gulfi Neromaccarj Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($249.95) $189 special, (That’s only $31.50 per bottle!)

Ian D’agata – Vinous 93 points “Deep ruby. Amazing floral and spicy nose of black fruit, herbs and grilled steak. Then rich and tactile, but vibrant and energetic, with well delineated flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes long with mounting but relatively polished tannic bite.”

Gulfi Nerosanlore Sicilia IGT Sicily 2011 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now

Ian D’agata – Vinous 94 points “Fully saturated ruby-red. Super-ripe aromas of black cherry, raspberry jelly, incense and coriander are very typical of the Sanloré site. Then surprisingly light on its feet, offering vibrant flavors of red and black cherry, tar, licorice and pomegranate liqueur. The finish is bright and juicy and features a lingering saline nuance. Knockout Sanloré that manages to be at once powerful and graceful, the latter a quality not always evident in wines from this site, which are usually known for their richness and size.”

Wine & Spirits 94 points “This dark and brooking wine comes from 40-year-old vines rooted in reddish-brown sand and clay soils; it grows half a mile from the sea and just 30 feet above sea level, where the temperature doesn’t change much between day and night. Savory notes of black olive and roasted mushroom saturate the wine’s dark plum flavors, intensified by a trail of salinity so intense it feels almost gritty, yet the wine is brightened by mouthwatering acidity. The contrast is extreme, and it works.”

 

Gulfi Nerosanlore Sicilia IGT Sicily 2013 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 3 bottles in stock now

Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2013 Sicilia Nerosanloré is a rich and plush red wine with a mid-weight approach backed by lots of rich fiber and fruity thickness. The house style at Gulfi always prizes ripeness and higher-than-average concentration. Blackberry preserves and cherry confit are backed by spice, sweet tobacco and sticky tar. The San Lorenzo vineyard site enjoys the highest altitude of all these cru sites. It is located at 600 meters above sea level and has red sandy soils.

James Suckling 93 points “I love the intense herb-liqueur and balsamic-vinegar character on the nose, also because its married to delicious richness. Still very lively for a five-year-old red and the balance of ripeness and rather supple tannins is impressive. Long finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”

Gulfi Nerosanlore Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special, 14 bottles in stock now

CASE-6 Gulfi Nerosanlore Sicilia IGT Sicily 2016 ($299.95) $237 special, (That’s only $39.50 per bottle!)

Ian D’agata-Vinous 97 points “Luminous red. Precise, brooding aromas of ripe red cherry, flint, orange rind, cinnamon, lavender and violet, complicated by iodine and earth. Silky and sappy with refined but very concentrated extract, this smothers the taste buds but stays vibrant and not at all heavy, offering lovely definition and lift to the red cherry, raspberry, floral and mineral flavors. Finishes extremely deep and long, with ultra-suave tannins, mesmerizing inner-mouth perfume and extreme refinement; very Barolo-like. A lovely multilayered wine showcasing the elegant side of Nero d’Avola that very few producers ever manage to showcase.”

Simply put, Feudo Montoni is exceptional. Beyond their first mentioning in the 1590’s it’s rare to find a producer whose wines reflect terroir, varietal character and quality farming practices across their entire portfolio. Sourced from the oldest part (120+ years) of their organic, 80 hectare estate in Agrigento, Vrucara is grown in the traditional Sicilian bushvine from original rootstock.

Nestled on a high elevation site on Mt. Cammarata this features a dramatically cooler season than others in production, contributing to some of the most layered and nuanced iterations of Nero. From the first pour there are exuberant aromas of oregano, anise, ripe strawberry, redcurrant and blackberries intermingled with a lingering copal resin and myrrh element that fills the glass. Full of verve, and whipsawing fruit character that begins in black raspberries before a metamorphosis into spiced Italian plums and espresso.

Vrucara features incredible depth at play with high tannins and acid that hollows the palate with a long finish of rosemary and Mexican chocolate. It’s rare to find a wine this multidimensional and storied for less than $100, let alone under $50. Highly ageworthy and will reward decanting or extensive cellaring.

Feudo Montoni ‘Vrucara’ Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT Sicily 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now

Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “Tasted from magnum, the 2015 Sicilia Nero d’Avola Vrucara is a dark and penetrating wine with a chiseled and pungent side that delivers dried cherry and blackberry preserves. There is a point of ripeness, maybe even jammy cherry with lots of inky dark fruit. I knocked off a point or two compared to the previous edition because I am less a fan of that ripeness. You get cherry liqueur or cherry syrup sweetness on the close. However, this remains one of the benchmark bottles for Sicily’s banner grape Nero d’Avola.”

Ian D’agata-Vinous 93+ points “Good full ruby-red. Aromas and flavors of red/dark berries, plum, smoke, coriander and herbs. Juicy, taut and precise, with musky notes that extend onto the long, very smooth back end.”

 

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today

 

Collector’s Corner:

 

Biondi Santi

 

In the beginning there was Biondi-Santi.  Yes, Biondi Santi is the genesis of modern Brunello. The combination of bottling 100% Sangiovese wine from Montalcino, propagating the Sangiovese Grosso clone, and finally (in 1966) helping draft the regulations for the Brunello DOC. The foundational work did not stop there however, with Biondi Santi undergoing some of the first Massale or heritage selections on their estate to identify the best clones for winemaking. These results paid off in spades, with Biondi Santi’s genetic material being some of the most sought after clones of Sangiovese in the world.

 

Biondi-Santi makes Brunello that other estates are judged against.  Their estate, Il Greppo, occupies some of the most hallowed ground in the Brunello appellation, in the heart of Montalcino.  Their standards are high (they rarely release riservas) and their style can only be described as classic. The wines are powerful, but not overwrought, elegant but emphatic. With the oldest vines on their estate now approaching 90 years old, there’s a level of depth and power in Biondi Santi that’s unprecedented anywhere else in Montalcino. 

 

In Stock and Available now: 

 

Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2011 750ML ($579.95) $419 special, 15 bottles in stock now

Ian D’Agata-Vinous 94+ points “Dark red. Musky nuances give way to brighter red fruit, licorice and herbal aromas. Rich and dense, with flavors of red cherry and minerals lifted by hints of orange peel and bergamot, not to mention noteworthy but harmonious acidity. Finishes long with youthfully chewy tannins and lingering hints of violet. This strikes me as a slightly readier to drink version of Brunello Riserva from Biondi-Santi, but as always, it improves greatly with aeration so decant at least six hours ahead for maximum enjoyment.”

Wine & Spirits 94 points “A warm summer yielded this rich and opulent 2011 Riserva. Only fruit from the estate’s oldest vines (some up to 80 years of age) makes it into this bottling, and that old-vine concentration shows in the wine’s dense flavors: notes of black cherry and umeboshi plum layered with iodine, basil and smoke. The tightly packed flavors need time to unfold, so it’s best to decant this several hours before serving.”

 

Biondi Santi Tenuta Greppo Rosso di Montalcino Tuscany 2016 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 5 bottles in stock now

Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “I am immediately smitten by the Biondi-Santi 2016 Rosso di Montalcino thanks to the purity of the aromas on display. The bouquet literally submerges the senses in Sangiovese, with those delicate aromas of wild rose, violets, wet earth and brambly forest berry. Background notes of licorice, camphor ash and balsam herb come into steady focus. I am delighted by the intensity and the immense focus of this wine. This Rosso di Montalcino stands with the best of Brunello and gives us good reason to have very high expectations for the 2016 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino that will be released appellation-wide at the beginning of next year. This is a solid mid-weight Rosso with good structure and fine points of fresh acidity that move the wine with determination and grace smoothly over the palate.”

Eric Guido-Vinous 93 points “The 2016 Rosso di Montalcino hails from lower-elevation vineyards, around 250 meters, in the northern section of Montalcino. It’s a classic, layered and dramatic wine, showing bright cherry, sweet herbs, cooling mint, dried fall leaves, tobacco and savory spice, with a presence and depth that feels more like Brunello than Rosso in character. There’s sweetness and purity to the fruit here that keeps me coming back to the glass, yet I’m sure that the 2016 will benefit from a few years of cellaring, especially as its fine tannins build toward the close. The Rosso spends twelve months maturing in Slavonian oak, and it is released two years later than most.”

 

Biondi Santi Il Greppo, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 31 bottles in stock now

Kerin O’Keefe- Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Underbrush, ripe berry, new leather and Mediterranean herb aromas slowly take shape in the glass. Showing youthful tension, the vibrant palate delivers red cherry, pomegranate, white pepper and pipe tobacco notes framed by bright acidity and taut, refined tannins. It already shows great balance and finesse but is still young and tight. Drink 2022-2035.”

James Suckling 95 points “Love the dried lemon rind, florals and red fruits. Medium to full body and a solid core of fruit and spices. Long and flavorful finish. Just a hint of sweet tobacco. Better in 2020.”