In This Newsletter:
Captain of Campania:
Cantina Lonardo’s Aglianico revival
Müller? Müller? Müller?
The Princes of the Pfalz
Who said that established wineries had to be expensive? Franco Serra has been making wine for over 100 years and still is one of the best buys in Piedmont. Founded in 1911 by Antonio Sperone, the wineries goal since their founding was to offer affordable wine. These goals reached their apex with the purchase of 75 acres in Piedmont, where they planted Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. Their wines offer a budget friendly exploration into the region, with each of the wines featuring Piedmont’s classic “warm brick” minerality. These are perfect for wine education, gifting or a night with pizza.
Newly Arrived from Franco Serra:
Franco Serra Barbaresco DOCG Piedmont 2018 750ML ($37.95) $30.90 special
James Suckling 91 points “Plenty of pretty, wild strawberries and boysenberries, as well as raspberries and spice undertones. Medium to full body, some attractive tannin bite and a medium-chewy finish. Drink from 2020.”
Franco Serra Barolo DOCG Piedmont 2016 750ML ($41.95) $38 special
James Suckling 94 points “Aromas of plums, cherries and ash with hints of tea and toffee follow through to a full body with layered, chewy tannins and lots of chocolate and walnuts at the finish. Needs a number of years to soften and come together, but I am impressed. Try after 2022.”
Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo Piedmont 2019 750ML ($17.95) $16 special
James Suckling 91 points “Pure, nebbiolo fruit with strawberry and light cherry character. Medium to light body and a nice texture and finish. Drink now and enjoy.”
Franco Serra Pinot Noir Piedmont 2020 750ML ($15.95) $14 special
Case-12 Franco Serra Pinot Noir Piedmont 2020 750ML ($189.95) $149 special, (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
*Case price for in-store pickup only*
James Suckling 91 points “A nice core of red fruit here, together with some floral and fresh-herb notes. Medium-bodied with firm, slightly chewy tannins that close down the fruit a little for now. But shows promise and should even out with a little time. Try in 2022”
Love Northern Italian Reds? We have over 214 bottlings available.
We’ve taken the liberty of assembling some of the rarest, highest rated and exclusive wines that we carry. Representing wines from around the Old and New World,
Mad Haus Marienberg Blaufrankisch Leithaberg 2015 750ML ($21.95) $11.90 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Case-12 Mad Haus Marienberg Blaufrankisch Leithaberg 2015 750ML ($199.95) $126 special,
Winery note “This wine is produced in the Neusiedlersee-Hugelland region of Austria where vibrant Jewish societies known as ‘The Seven Communities’ flourished for many centuries and constitute the foundation of contemporary Jewish history. The vineyards in this district are known for their high quality and were used by The Seven Communities to produce Kosher wine. [Labeled Kosher for Pesach (Passover), not mevushal.]… Our Kosher wines were produced under Rabbi M. Scharf – Kedassia London – in our winery with the Strictest Kosher Seal.”
Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($34.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($399.95) $249 special, (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Winery note “If you’ve ever sat at San Francisco’s iconic Zuni Café with a plate of oysters in front of you while you wait for the iconic whole roast chicken, you may have had a glass or two of this collaboration between longtime friends Rajat Parr of Sandhi and Zuni wine director Thierry Lovato. The wine is a barrel selection from some of Sandhi’s iconic Sta. Rita Hills sites, (think Mt. Carmel, Sanford & Benedict) with enough own-rooted, 1973 Wente selection Bien Nacido Chardonnay blended in to warrant a Santa Barbara County designation.”
Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Mosel *** GK 2013 375ML ($179.95) $149 special, 4 half-bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 100 points “The smoky slate aroma of the Sonnenuhr is still obvious in the beautifully clear, lush and delicate 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** that offers pineapples, ripe apples and limes powdered with rock flour on the nose. The wine seems weightless on the palate, although it is nothing less than a sweet, sumptuously delicious and breathtakingly fine Auslese with perfectly ripe and painstakingly selected Riesling berries. The finish is intense in a very subtle way, lingeringly salty and piquant, and the purity and elegance in combination with the sensual fruit juice is absolutely delicious. This is an amazing wine.”
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Brut Millesime 2006 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The assemblage of the 2006 Louis XV Brut Millésimé is about the same as the 1995 and 1996—composed of 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from grand cru villages. The only difference is that the Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (10% of the assemblage) spent 12 months in oak barrels. Disgorged in January 2017 (dosage: six grams per liter), the 2006 has a golden color and opens with a deep, ripe, elegant and vinous bouquet with toasty and chalky lemon and fresh white fruit flavors. On the palate, this is an intense, round, fresh and complex Louis XV with great purity and finesse. The wine opens on the palate like a soufflé, coating the whole palate without any pressure or weight—gorgeous! This is a delicate and fresh yet well-structured and persistent Louis XV whose intense and long but weightless finish reveals lovely, almost juicy fruit concentration with perfectly integrated freshness and lasting minerality that seems to give additional structure. The 2006 shows a lot of Chardonnay features right now and drinks perfectly today; however, it can be kept under perfect conditions for decades. Just keep it in the box, because the bottle is white and nothing makes a Champagne age faster than exposure to daylight. (Tasted in November 2017 from Lot LL15067017BT.)-SR”
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Brut Millesime 2008 750ML ($299.95) $249 special, 16 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “This is really punchy and broad-shouldered with muscular structure and citrusy undertones. Full body. Lightly tannic and a fresh and vivid finish. This is the first vintage without malolactic fermentation ever. One for the cellar. Better in 2022.”
Wine Advocate 93+ points “The straw-yellow/white-golden colored 2008 Louis XV Brut Millésimé blends 50% Chardonnay (20 % from Avize, 15% from Oger and 15% from Mesnil) with 50% Pinot Noir (41.5% from Verzenay and 8.5% from Bouzy). Disgorged in January 2018 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2008 displays a clear, pure, fresh, chalky-tinged and vinous nose with lemon, white fruits, brioche, hazelnuts, white blossoms and some caramel notes. Pure, lean, fresh and elegant on the palate, with a lingering hazelnut flavor, this is a straight yet complex cuvée with grip and a long, well-structured and textured finish. This 2008 is still terribly fresh and should benefit from further bottle aging. For the moment, I am missing the mouth-filling generosity of the 2006 and 1995. Mind that this is the first vintage of de Venoge’s prestigious Louis XV where the base wines didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation! Total production: 10,326 bottles. Tasted October 2018.”
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Extra Brut Rose Millesime 2002 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 25 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “Harmonious, with fine intensity, offering rich notes of spice cake, toasted almond, dried cherry, grilled plum and smoky mineral. Almost velvety in texture, with juicy acidity that brings you back for another sip. Delicious. Drink now through 2022. 54 cases made.”
Pian dell’Orino Bassolino di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2010 750ML ($799.95) $599 special, 1 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 100 points “The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Bassolino di Sopra is the equivalent of the estate’s Riserva. Only 3,000 bottles were made and the wine was not produced in 2009 or 2008. Nor will it be made in 2011 or 2013. Future editions are 2012 and 2015. Bassolino di Sopra is silky and smooth, but it also has a fine textural fabric that gives the wine an enormous sense of tactile intensity in terms of mouthfeel. This is a magnificent achievement with an extreme sense of purity and freshness that is elegant and streamlined. The bouquet reveals slight and miniature shifts in its evolution that keep your curiosity as you contemplate the wine in the glass. Wild berry is followed by a steady stream of balsam herb, cola, crushed oyster shell and delicate floral tones. The vineyards are located between 330 and 370 meters above sea level with limestone deposits and red soils. Farming is biodynamic.”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Pian dell’Orino 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Bassolino di Sopra is shaping up to be another of the wines of the vintage. Lavender, spices, menthol, tobacco and dark stone fruits meld together in a vivid Brunello of extraordinary beauty. Tasted alongside the Versante Amiata, the Bassolino di Sopra presents darker tonalities of fruit, a more vertical sense of structure support by spine of firm tannin, and a powerful personality. The 2010 is a fascinating wine to follow, as it becomes weightless and refined with the passage of time. Sadly, I could not spend all afternoon with the Bassolino di Sopra, but this is a deep, contemplative Brunello that will thrill readers for many, many years.” AG
Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT Tuscany 2012 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points “A dark, brooding wine, the 2012 Giusto di Notri presents a compelling array of dark stone fruits, grilled herbs, smoke, tobacco and menthol. The power of Suvereto and these Bordeaux varieties are both super-expressive in a virile, imposing wine loaded with personality and gorgeous, totally resonant fruit. This is a terrific showing.”
Dal Forno Romano Vigneto Monte Lodoletta Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2010 750ML ($349.95) $319 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Decanter 98 points “2010 is a more considered vintage compared to the outright opulence of 2009, but it’s no shrinking violet, especially in Dal Forno’s hands. This has a meaty nose with savoury hedgerow fruit , surprisingly open already. I had to put an exclamation mark after writing ‘elegant’ in my notes, as it seems incomprehensible that a wine of this magnitude could still have such balletic balance. It is broad and juicy, with chalky grip and clean, fresh acids followed by a hint of warmth on the long finish.”
James Suckling 97 points “Aromas of roses and other flowers with a deep fruit intensity. Full-bodied, dense and ultra-fine with a beautiful texture. Lots of new wood now but this will amalgamate with time into the wine. Fabulous potential. Drink or hold.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “This was an excellent vintage in much of Italy, but unfortunately the weather was not as pleasant in this specific area of the Valpolicella. The season saw a lot of rain, and a good amount of fruit was cut and left on the ground because it could not be used. Considering these difficulties, Michele Dal Forno tells me he is “more than happy with the results.” I tasted the 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta next to the 2009 vintage, and having these two wines side by side reinforces just how different they are. The 2010 vintages is sharper, more pointed and direct in comparison, and there is a tiny point of sourness on the close. This wine does not reach the same threshold for fullness, density or richness. It does come close. The wine’s residual sugar measures between 5 and 6 grams per liter, which is normal for this wine, and the bouquet is redolent of familiar black fruit, raisin and spice. However, the wine feels a bit stuck in its tracks at the moment and is evidently experiencing a shy phase in its evolution. It has retreated.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Like a gymnast, this focused red shows both power and grace. Finely meshed flavors of blackberry puree, fig cake and Earl Grey tea leaf are framed by refined, dusty tannins, with a lasting finish expands on the palate with spice and smoky mineral details. Drink now through 2030. 450 cases imported. — AN”
Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru MCMLV Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($1499.95) $849 special, 1 bottles in stock now
Neal Rosenthal note “For the first time, Laurent Lignier produced a separate cuvée of Clos de la Roche in 2017 in honor of his grandfather Henri. The Clos de la Roche “MCMLV” comes entirely from Henri’s first planting in 1955: 27 rows of Pinot Noir in the Monts Luisants climat, which he used to propagate the rest of his holdings during the 1960s. This original parcel is highly susceptible to millerandage, which results in small berries of immense concentration, and Laurent harnessed the full power and intensity of such fruit in this stupendous bottling—of which he produced a mere two barrels. A wine such as this embodies Burgundy’s most profound essence: the continuous spirit and presence of a family whose members’ very hands have worked these same vines, this same parcel, since the vines were planted. How could Henri Lignier, when he was breaking earth in 1955, have ever imagined the course his home region would take over the ensuing decades, or the global acclaim that would be heaped on his son’s and his grandsons’ wines? Yet, despite the incredible changes those ensuing 65 years have witnessed, a Lignier has steadfastly worked each vine among these 27 rows of Clos de la Roche, vintage after vintage, gradually building its reputation as one of red Burgundy’s pinnacles. “MCMLV” is not just a great wine, then; it is an emblem of all that makes Burgundy special.”
Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Beze Les Ouvrees Rodin Grand Cru Burgundy 2016 750ML ($1499.95) $1049 special, 3 Bottles in stock now
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Les Ouvrées Rodin is showing brilliantly from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, cherries, red berries, grilled game, licorice, spices and smoky new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with a deep and intense core of sapid fruit that cloaks its satiny but abundant structuring tannins, underpinned by succulent acids and concluding with a seriously long, penetrating finish. This special cuvée hails from a parcel of vines planted in 1966 on the Chambertin side of Clos de Bèze, and its name commemorates a Faiveley family connection with the sculptor Rodin.”
Stephen Tanzer 95-98 points “(like the “regular” Clos de Bèze, this special cuvée from 60+-year-old vines on the Chambertin side of the cru was totally destemmed): Dark red-ruby. Less expressive but slightly riper aromas of purple and black fruits and pungent spices. Then utterly seamless and suave on the palate, offering a lacy, feminine texture with great energy and sophistication. The penetrating red berry and white pepper flavors are amplified by the wine’s mineral underpinning. The endless rising finish combines serious power and refined tannins. Ultimately a bit less expressive and tight-grained than the classic Clos de Bèze but this is even deeper.”
Burghound 94-97 points “(a selection of the oldest vines in one of their 3 parcels). This is aromatically similar to the regular cuvée save for being even spicier and displaying a bit more wood influence. There is almost painful intensity to the super-sleek big-bodied flavors that possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel due to a mid-palate that brims with sappy dry extract that coats the mouth on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced finale. While this may change given that these are barrel samples but based on the two that I tasted, this is actually slightly less structured though I emphasize slightly. Either way, this is a seriously impressive effort that should age effortlessly. (94-97)/2034+.”
Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieille Vigne Cote de Nuits 2016 750ML ($1499.95) $1199 special, 1 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 96 points “The 2016 Griotte-Chambertin from Domaine Fourrier is a great wine in the making. The bouquet is pure, sappy and quite expressive, but the palate is still on the primary side and the wine will deserve a fully twelve to fourteen years in the cellar to start to properly stir from hibernation. The nose is a superb blend of red and black cherries, gamebird, a very complex base of chalky soil tones, woodsmoke, spicy oak, mustard seed and a pungent topnote of roses. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and already quite velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, lovely transparency and grip, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy, refined and laser-like focus. There will be plenty of temptation to drink this on the earlier side, unless it closes up significantly after bottling, but it would be crime to really touch a bottle before at least 2030! 2030-2100.”
Decanter 95 points “The Griotte is beautiful in 2016, the inherent elegance of the vineyard synthesising perfectly with Fourrier’s limpid style. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, rose petal and liquorice mingle with subtle nuances of rich soil, introducing a full-bodied, silky wine, its fine, chalky tannins cloaked in a deep and ample core of pure, glossy and succulent fruit. This should be very special with some bottle age.Drinking Window 2026 – 2050.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92-95 points “Bright medium red. Light, lively scents of raspberry, rose petal, minerals, menthol and black pepper, with some riper earth and truffle notes lurking. Plush, sweet and fine-grained, showing a light touch but remaining quite closed in the mouth. Shows lovely floral and mineral nuances but this very suave wine will need time in bottle to come alive and express itself. Finishes with serious dusty tannins and less sweetness than Fourrier’s négociant Chambertin.”
Burghound 92-94 points “(from a .26 ha parcel planted in 1928). An elegant, pure and beautifully complex blend of cool red berries, rose petal and spice are trimmed in an all-but-invisible application of wood. There is the same lovely sense of underlying tension suffusing the sleekly muscular middle weight plus flavors that exude a subtle minerality onto the dusty, balanced and impressively persistent finish. This wine usually matures slowly and while it’s not firm to the point of youthful austerity, the tannic spine is sufficiently tightly wound to make clear that this needs patience. 2028+.”
Sine Qua Non Into The Dark Grenache Sta Rita Hills 2004 1.5L ($2199.95) $1599 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Wine Advocate 99 points “More up-front and open-knit, the 2004 Into the Dark (Grenache) checks in as a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier that comes mostly from Manfred’s 11 Confessions Vineyard, yet includes small portions from Alban (10%) and Alta Mesa (9%) Vineyard. Reminding me of Clos Saint-Jean’s Sanctus Sanctorum with its incredible bouquet of sweet kirsch, licorice, dried baking spices, graphite and ground pepper, this beauty flows onto the palate with impeccable purity, perfect integration of its fruit, tannin and acidity, and blockbuster length. As is common with this estate’s wine, it’s the purity paired with serious richness that sets it apart. While still youthful and benefiting from a healthy decadence, I think it’s drinking at point and would aim to drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years. It will evolve gracefully for longer, but I see no reason to hold off.-JD”
Robert Parker 99 points “2004 Into the Dark: This absolutely magnificent wine is a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier, with most of it emerging from the estate’s 11 Confessions Vineyard. It still has a very opaque ruby/purple color, along with a sweet nose of graphite, wood smoke, spice box, white chocolate, kirsch and creme de cassis. Still quite infantile in terms of its development, the wine is full-bodied, with a 45- to 50-second finish. Another 2-3 years of cellaring will be beneficial, and it is certainly capable of lasting 10 or more years.”
Chateau Lagrange Pomerol, 1990 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Chateau Lagrange Pomerol, 1990 1990 750ML ($599.95) $449 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Chateau Lagrange Pomerol, 1990 1990 750ML ($1199.95) $869 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “Big, rustic and chewy red. Dark garnet color. Aromas of berries, leaves and wet earth. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a long coffee, ripe fruit aftertaste.–1990 Bordeaux retrospective.”
Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 ($54.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 750ML ($319.95) $219 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 96 points “This is a ripe and full red with complex aromas of cedar, cloves, tobacco and dried mushrooms. Distinct, earthy quality underneath ripe plums and licorice. Layers of chocolatey tannins. Black truffles, too. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2024.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points “The Fornacina 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens to a darkly saturated appearance and toasted aromas of roasted nut backed by dark blackberry fruit. Made with organic fruit, this Brunello is fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak casks in a traditional and straightforward manner. Production in this vintage is 10,000 bottles. There is lot of intensity here, and the wine draws its power not only from the fruit, but also in large part from the oak aging. Indeed, its fruit-driven aromas share equal billing with campfire ash and smoked cedar or mahogany.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 91 points “The 2016 Fornacina is a dark and earthy expression of Brunello di Montalcino. Ashen soils, crushed stone and animal musk dominate its bouquet, with hints of black cherry buried deeply beneath. It’s silky and pliant, casting an array of black fruits and exotic savory spices across a medium-bodied frame. Balance is well maintained, and there’s a blending of sour citrus and nervous tension here that keeps you coming back to the glass. The Fornacina is quite unique yet highly enjoyable, and it won’t require much time to come fully into focus.”
Domaine Lafage ‘Nicolas’ Grenache Noir Vieilles Vignes IGP Cotes Catalanes 2019 750ML ($21.95) $19 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Domaine Lafage ‘Nicolas’ Grenache Noir Vieilles Vignes IGP Cotes Catalanes 2019 750ML ($249.95) $208 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “All Grenache brought up in demi–muids and aged on lees for 8 months, the medium ruby/purple hued color of the 2019 Cuvée Nicolas is followed by a killer bouquet of kirsch liqueur, savory spices, cured meats, and peppery garrigue. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and gorgeously textured, it has wonderful richness with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It’s another insane value from this team.”
Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 750ML ($479.95) $389 pre-arrival special ($That’s only $64.83 per bottle)
Case-12 Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 750ML ($959.95) $745 pre-arrival special ($that’s only $62.08 per bottle)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97+ points “The 2015 San Leonardo pours forth with a beautiful velvety appearance and sultry dark garnet color. This wine shows a lot of life and dark fruit purity with black plum, blackberry, cassis and tarry prune. There is a delightful note of black pepper that is specific to this warm and sunny vintage. The fruit shows softer and richer concentration compared to past vintages and more pulpy density that gives this edition a bigger profile in terms of mouthfeel. Production is 75,000 bottles. San Leonardo is a wine made for long aging, but the nice thing about this vintage is that the bouquet remains quite accessible at this young age. Nevertheless, I’d still suggest keeping this bottle in your cellar so that it can calmly finish its evolution.”
Decanter 96 points “San Leonardo is the iconic wine of the estate, and one of the most celebrated Bordeaux blends of Italy with its cool climate profile. The warm 2015 vintage doesn’t differ from the leaner style of the wine (compared to other Bordeaux blends), which is a good benchmark to understand the sense of elegance here. The nose sees purity of fruit (cassis) typical of Trentino Alto Adige, finely melted with leather and green pepper aromas. If you dislike wines with a slightly herbal aroma is understandable but here this touch adds another layer and the wine on the palate shines with silky, super elegant tannins. Refreshing and amazingly savoury, it plays well even with brasato or other powerful dishes of red meat. Drinking Window 2020 – 2040.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 95 points “The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins slowly make themselves known toward the close. Long, structured and spicy, the 2015 finishes with a crescendo of tart blue and black fruits, tapering off to notes of subtly sweet spice. As good as this is today, it will only get better over time. That said, it doesn’t appear that this is going to shut down anytime in the immediate future, so it’s certainly worth checking on a bottle or two before forgetting the rest in your cellar.”
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 750ML ($79.95) $66 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 97 points “Attractive aromas of cherry, dark mushroom, bark and walnut follow through to a full body with lots of ripe cherry and berry character in the center palate. Firm, chewy tannins draw you down the palate. Extremely long. From organically grown grapes. Better than the superb 2015? Drink after 2023 and onwards.”
Collector’s Corner: Get Iced with Eiswein
Captain of Campania:
Cantina Lonardo’s Aglianico revival
Müller? Müller? Müller?
The Princes of the Pfalz
Franco Serra: Spectacular and Storied
Rare, Classic and Lauded Wines:
Rivers and Roads:
Wines arriving Wednesday, January 26th
Rare, Classic and Lauded Wines:
Rivers and Roads:
Wines arriving Wednesday, January 26th
Collector’s Corner: Get Iced with Eiswein
Aglianico, also known as “The Nebbiolo of the south” has largely flown under the radar since its heyday in the Ancient Era. Thought to have been imported by Greek visitors to Campania, the Roman Empire used Aglianico to create an exclusive wine consumed by Rome’s elite. This particular wine called Falernum was mentioned by Pliny, Aurelius and Horace in literature and can even be seen advertised in the ruins of Pompeii’s bars.
Fast forward a few thousand years and we have Contrade di Lonardo, one of the best kept secrets of Campanian wine, known for their commitments to traditional varieties and farming practices. Lonardo’s Taurasi is made from 35-81 year old Aglianico planted at 1300 feet above sea level, grown organically in a tall pergola in ancient volcanic ash with a base of limestone and clay. Even with these rigorous growing standards, Lonardo will only keep around 50% of his Aglianico for use in Taurasi. The very best lots are kept separate and released as single vineyard bottlings.
This commitment is evident in the finished product, featuring aromatics of violets, pipe tobacco, cedar and Bing cherries that command your full attention. There’s a characteristic “Italian Rusticity” to the wine that is evocative of new leather and antique wood, not unlike a high end cologne. These are wines made for anything roasted, braised or red sauce based. Peking duck, Grilled Cabbage, Lasagna or bbq pork ribs would all perform incredibly with this wine. Get at least two of these wines, one for short term consumption and the other for longer aging.
Lonardo Wines in stock now:
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Aglianico Rosso Irpinia Campania 2016 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Case-12 Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Aglianico Rosso Irpinia Campania 2016 750ML ($319.95) $259 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata-Vinous 92 points “Deep ruby. Lively aromas of red fruits, minerals and herbs. Juicy and fruity in the mouth, showing hazelnutty nuances to the red fruit flavors. Finishes with good acid-fruit balance and nice tannins. A lovely wine that will age well, but provides irresistible drinking right now.”
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Coste Taurasi DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata-Vinous 94+ points “Deep ruby. Floral nuances complicate the red and dark berry, ink, sweet spice and flinty aromas and flavors. Dense and seamless, showing a multilayered personality and remarkable complexity of flavor. Finishes very long and with repeating, lingering hints of ink and flint.”
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Vigne d’Alto Taurasi DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata-Vinous 94+ points “Deep ruby with a purple tinge. Reticent nose at first, only hinting at dark cherry, sassafras and sandalwood. Then very concentrated and dense, displaying almost opulent, sweet nuances of oaky torrefaction to the coffee, cocoa and dark cherry flavors. This outstanding Taurasi finishes extremely long, rich and seamless. It’s virtually impossible to pick between Lonardo’s two crus in 2011, and both will have many admirers.”
Müller? Müller? Müller?
The Princes of the Pfalz
Müller-Catoir is a rising star in the world of German Riesling and is on their way to becoming the face of the Pfalz wine scene as a whole. Founded in 1744 their family holdings fall on some of the most premium terroir in the area, encompassing 5 different “Grand Cru” level holdings and giving them access to the entire spectrum of Pfalz terroirs. These terroirs include multiple types of sandstone, fossilized shell limestone, gravel and loess, allowing for a dizzying spectrum of Riesling to be made across the Prädikatswein spectrum.
Closer to Strasbourg than Berlin; the Pfalz is nestled between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River in a veritable oasis of forests and hills. Archeological records show that the district was one of the first areas in the entire world to have widespread consumption and production of wine, dating back to 550 B.C.E.
The beneficial growing conditions make for some of the most interesting and diverse expressions of German wine, with Riesling still being the crown jewel. The warmer average temperature that’s seen creates Rieslings with less acidity and concentrated fruit flavors like apricot, mango and nectarine. Aromas usually feature a headier and effusive quality in comparison to other regions that brings to mind daffodils, yarrow and lilies. In spite of the richer character, the Pfalz is a major hub for dry Riesling and features some of the most full bodied expressions of the category, with sweeter examples being made by only a handful of producers.
The Catoir “House style” is characterized by minimal intervention in the cellar with extended lees aging to emphasize crisp minerality, aromatic complexity and a refreshing salinity British wine critic and writer Jancis Robinson describes the Pfalz as “One of Germany’s most exciting regions” and it’s clear to see why!
Müller Catoir Wines in stock now
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten ‘Im Breumel’ Riesling Grosses Gewächs Pfalz 2017 750ML ($79.95) $49 special
Stuart Pigott 98 Points “Stand back for the arrival of a giant! Super-fresh nectarine, vanilla and Thai-basil aromas that don’t leave you in any doubt that this is a very remarkable dry riesling. Then the tidal wave of minerality comes through at the finish and sweeps everything away. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94+ Points “From a 2.8 hectare clos that is the highest, coolest and stoniest (sandstone/gravel) plot of the Bürgergarten, the 2017 Riesling Bürgergarten “Im Breumel” GG offers a deep, ripe, lush and intense bouquet with fascinating flavors of crushed stones and ripe fruits. Lush and intense on the palate, this is a deep, dense, very complex and powerful dry Riesling with lingering salinity and very fine tannins. Great but way too young. Tasted in Haardt, December 2019.”
Wine Spectator 94 Points “Extremely elegant and precisely crafted, with notes of star anise and lavender framing the core of crunchy pear and blood orange flavors. The acidity is appreciable, fueling the flavors and spice accents. Savory mineral details linger on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2031.”
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, Stuart Pigott – Jamessuckling 95 Points “Stunning nectarine, peach and papaya character, together with lovely succulence and enormous vitality, make this a breathtaking sweet Spätlese with a finish that’s straight as a laser beam and super-clean. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2018 750ML ($49.95) $33 special
Stuart Pigott 94 Points “Effusive aromas of apricots and lemon zest with hints of summer flowers. At once succulent, graceful and finely nuanced on the palate, then very long and filigree at the finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 93 Points “The Burgergarten in the Haardt vineyard as used by the famed Mueller-Catoir, or hill garden, is a Premier Cru site that is composed of weathered yellow sandstone interspersed with layer of loess and clay giving the perfect conditions to make a lush, but crisply dry Riesling of refined elegance and with a concentrated underlying power, which in 2017 is incredible and joyously perfumed. ….The 2017 Burgergarten Trocken [has] exotic tropical fruit and floral aromas with plumeria, jasmine, dried pineapple, gingery/peppery notes and grilled citrus leading the way on the racy palate, this Riesling feels a bit like Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile, adding layers of wild peach, while cherry, tangy apricot and zesty lime notes along with loads of tannin like structure, zippy acidity, chalky stones and a Chablis like steely edge! Air brings more body out and clears the touch of reduction that easily blows and this Riesling becomes in fact more white Burgundy like in some ways, while also gaining hints of spearmint, chamomile and verbena, which clearly are Riesling influences and it is strikingly impressive for keeping its tension , clarity and severity, like a firm GG should…This area can produce monumental dry Riesling, as witnessed here with this Erste Lage Trocken from Mueller-Catoir….Terry Theise, Mueller-Catoir’s famous importer, says the estate produces wines of outstanding transparency and density, and remains emblematic of Riesling at its most sophisticated, and I totally agree, these are amazingly pure wines that are both wildly entertaining in expression and wines of remarkable class and finesse…. This Burgergarten grows on you with every sip and should get even more intriguing with 3 to 5 years more are on it, patience I think will be well rewarded, and I hope I get to revisit it a few more times.”
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92+ Points“From yellow-colored sandstone soils, the 2017 Riesling Bürgergarten “VDP. Erste Lage” is intense yet fine and pure on the slightly salty/stony, very elegant nose with its ripe and concentrated yellow-fleshed fruit aromas. The palate is pure and salty, very long and intertwines weathered terroir aromas with an airiness and lingering, very stimulating salinity. The wine is less textured than the Haardter but even more pure, deep, finessed and salty. Bone dry, with less than three grams of residual sugar, this is a concentrated yet still young Riesling that will shine in five years. Tasted in Haardt, December 2019.”
Muller-Catoir Gimmeldingen Riesling, Pfalz 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special,
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 93 Points “Ripe white and yellow peaches and just enough acidity to lift the medium-full body and give the long finish some real drive. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Muller-Catoir Haardter Muskateller Trocken Pfalz 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 92 Points “Wonderful pink-grapefruit and muscat nose that bowls you over. So joyful and really rather subtle for a seriously aromatic grape variety. Very bright finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.”
Muller-Catoir Haardter Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2017 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 94 Points “A stunning, bone-dry riesling for this moderate price level! Fine nose of sliced pears and honeysuckle. Stunning freshness and purity on the medium-full palate. The finish is subtlety reminiscent of Mosel. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 92 Points“The 2017 Müller-Catoir Haardt Trocken is exotic and highly aromatic with lovely fruit and mineral intensity, it is a wonderful and crisply dry Riesling that reflects the vintage and its remarkable Pfalz terroir.… the talented Martin Franzen [is] running the cellar here. Franzen, who in the past ran the operations at Schlossgut Diel, employs a strict program with a move to organic practices and severe selections in the vineyards, where everything is worked and picked by hand now and focuses on ultra transparency in the wines with a reductive approach, with every wine getting a hand crafted attention to detail. The Haardt, a village bottling is a pure example with expressive bright flavors and a heavenly floral perfume, while being brisk, tangy and dusty dry on the light framed palate. Müller-Catoir does a gentle crush and gives the juice plenty of time on the skins before a slow and soft pressing before an stainless steel fermentation and aging, all to preserve vibrancy and purity, the wines are always stylish and evocative.…The Haardt Riesling Trocken is all from organic grapes that were grown on standstone soils, which gives this wine its pretty nose and steely form, and this 2017 is absolutely seducing with a complex array of sensations that ranges from tropical essences to flinty wet stones, it is clear and with a tiny hint of sunshine in the glass. In the mouth this calcareous influenced Riesling shows jasmine, oyster shell, peach, tart apricot, green apple and saline notes, adding guava/papaya, rosewater and hint of zesty lime.…this one itself is fabulous and a true value offering from this great estate. I am glad I got a few bottles of Müller-Catoir from 2017, they are looking like classics. This is a great Summer refresher, but serious enough to hang out with haute cuisine, it gets more intriguing with matching food, it can go with a wide variety of foods from fresh shellfish, spicy prawns, sushi as well as cured meats, picnic fare, street tacos and Moroccan lemon chicken even. This vivid and zippy young Riesling is a quality white that makes for a nice alternative for Chablis, Kiwi Sauv Blanc and or Albarino, drink it over the next 3 to 5 years.”
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 90 Points “From younger vines and partly from sandier soils than the regular, yellow-colored Buntsandstein, the 2017 Riesling Haardt is deep, fine and ripe on the elegant and balanced nose. Full-bodied, lush and intense on the palate, this is a deep, dry, well-balanced and textured Riesling with a ripe but salty-mineral acidity and a long, well-structured and slightly salty finish with nice bitters and citrus flavors. This is an excellent vin de terroir that slowly opens up. It’s an impressive wine in the lower/medium price range. Tasted in December 2019.”
Muller-Catoir Haardt Scheurebe Pfalz 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Winery Note “With its delicate bouquet of tropical fruits such as pineapple and grapefruit as well as gooseberry and cassis, this Haardt Scheurebe is focussed on freshness, vitality, and the exotic.”
Muller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Auslese Pfalz 2015 375ML ($39.95) $31.90 special
Wine Advocate 94 Points “The 2015 Riesling Auslese Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten is super pure and fine on the nobly concentrated, stony nose with its honey and bright fruit aromas. Rich, sweet, lush and piquant on the palate, this is an excellent Auslese with great finesse and a lingering piquancy. Despite its sweetness, this is a very stimulating and pure Auslese with great ageing potential.”
Muller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Trocken Pfalz 2017 750ML ($59.95) $33 special
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 95 Points “Why drink a dry white called scheurebe? Here’s the answer. An enormously complex nose of grapefruit, cassis and pineapple, then breathtaking purity and elegance on the palate and a totally uplifting and super-long finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 93 Points “I love Scheurebe and this Mueller-Catoir is one of, if not the, best dry version, with this ripe and expressive 2017 showing everything the grape has to offer, it delivers intensity and aromatic quality. It’s a thrilling German white wine from one of the most admired wineries in the Pfalz. This vintage is bursting from the glass with jasmine, liquid roses and spearmint lifting to the nose while the light to medium bodied palate delivers tangy grapefruit, white peach, quince, sour apple and pineapple fruits along with chalky mineral, saline, clove spice, wild fennel and the crisp, lip smacking finish keeps things severe and refreshing.… Scheurebe grows best in Calcareous soils, with Muller-Catoir’s Pfalz version regarded as maybe the greatest expression of this grape, in particular their Trocken single Cru Haardter Mandelring example. The full range of wines at this property are amazing from the thrilling dry wines to the finely balanced sweet wines, everything at Mueller-Catoir is class, when it comes to the Pfalz, this and Von Winning are must try wines….Müller-Catoir has gone holistic in recent years and farm mostly organic, but remain very practical with absolute quality demanded of the grapes here, there is no compromise at this place, they focus on purity and terroir. The vineyards in Haardt, where this wine comes from, are composed of primary rock (urgestein) and sandstone, with an increasing proportion of gravel lower on the slopes. This estate and the region has a long history of winegrowing with the Burgergarten site being first planted close to 700 years ago, and, as the winery notes. Mueller-Catoir which has a tradition of reductive winemaking implementing a gentle crush, a long skin contact, slow gentle pressing, and then ferments at warmer, according to the winery again, than customary fermentation temperatures in stainless steel to promote transparency, which this lovely Scheurebe shows, drink it over the next 3 to 5 years.”
We also have other bottlings of Catoir available, including backvintages and single vineyard bottlings!
Captain of Campania:
Cantina Lonardo’s Aglianico revival
Cantina Lonardo’s Aglianico revival
Aglianico, also known as “The Nebbiolo of the south” has largely flown under the radar since its heyday in the Ancient Era. Thought to have been imported by Greek visitors to Campania, the Roman Empire used Aglianico to create an exclusive wine consumed by Rome’s elite. This particular wine called Falernum was mentioned by Pliny, Aurelius and Horace in literature and can even be seen advertised in the ruins of Pompeii’s bars.
Fast forward a few thousand years and we have Contrade di Lonardo, one of the best kept secrets of Campanian wine, known for their commitments to traditional varieties and farming practices. Lonardo’s Taurasi is made from 35-81 year old Aglianico planted at 1300 feet above sea level, grown organically in a tall pergola in ancient volcanic ash with a base of limestone and clay. Even with these rigorous growing standards, Lonardo will only keep around 50% of his Aglianico for use in Taurasi. The very best lots are kept separate and released as single vineyard bottlings.
This commitment is evident in the finished product, featuring aromatics of violets, pipe tobacco, cedar and Bing cherries that command your full attention. There’s a characteristic “Italian Rusticity” to the wine that is evocative of new leather and antique wood, not unlike a high end cologne. These are wines made for anything roasted, braised or red sauce based. Peking duck, Grilled Cabbage, Lasagna or bbq pork ribs would all perform incredibly with this wine. Get at least two of these wines, one for short term consumption and the other for longer aging.
Lonardo Wines in stock now:
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Aglianico Rosso Irpinia Campania 2016 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Case-12 Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Aglianico Rosso Irpinia Campania 2016 750ML ($319.95) $259 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata-Vinous 92 points “Deep ruby. Lively aromas of red fruits, minerals and herbs. Juicy and fruity in the mouth, showing hazelnutty nuances to the red fruit flavors. Finishes with good acid-fruit balance and nice tannins. A lovely wine that will age well, but provides irresistible drinking right now.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Coste Taurasi DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata-Vinous 94+ points “Deep ruby. Floral nuances complicate the red and dark berry, ink, sweet spice and flinty aromas and flavors. Dense and seamless, showing a multilayered personality and remarkable complexity of flavor. Finishes very long and with repeating, lingering hints of ink and flint.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Vigne d’Alto Taurasi DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata-Vinous 94+ points “Deep ruby with a purple tinge. Reticent nose at first, only hinting at dark cherry, sassafras and sandalwood. Then very concentrated and dense, displaying almost opulent, sweet nuances of oaky torrefaction to the coffee, cocoa and dark cherry flavors. This outstanding Taurasi finishes extremely long, rich and seamless. It’s virtually impossible to pick between Lonardo’s two crus in 2011, and both will have many admirers.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Müller? Müller? Müller?
The Princes of the Pfalz
Müller-Catoir is a rising star in the world of German Riesling and is on their way to becoming the face of the Pfalz wine scene as a whole. Founded in 1744 their family holdings fall on some of the most premium terroir in the area, encompassing 5 different “Grand Cru” level holdings and giving them access to the entire spectrum of Pfalz terroirs. These terroirs include multiple types of sandstone, fossilized shell limestone, gravel and loess, allowing for a dizzying spectrum of Riesling to be made across the Prädikatswein spectrum.
Closer to Strasbourg than Berlin; the Pfalz is nestled between the Haardt Mountains and the Rhine River in a veritable oasis of forests and hills. Archeological records show that the district was one of the first areas in the entire world to have widespread consumption and production of wine, dating back to 550 B.C.E.
The beneficial growing conditions make for some of the most interesting and diverse expressions of German wine, with Riesling still being the crown jewel. The warmer average temperature that’s seen creates Rieslings with less acidity and concentrated fruit flavors like apricot, mango and nectarine. Aromas usually feature a headier and effusive quality in comparison to other regions that brings to mind daffodils, yarrow and lilies. In spite of the richer character, the Pfalz is a major hub for dry Riesling and features some of the most full bodied expressions of the category, with sweeter examples being made by only a handful of producers.
The Catoir “House style” is characterized by minimal intervention in the cellar with extended lees aging to emphasize crisp minerality, aromatic complexity and a refreshing salinity British wine critic and writer Jancis Robinson describes the Pfalz as “One of Germany’s most exciting regions” and it’s clear to see why!
Müller Catoir Wines in stock now
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten ‘Im Breumel’ Riesling Grosses Gewächs Pfalz 2017 750ML ($79.95) $49 special
Stuart Pigott 98 Points “Stand back for the arrival of a giant! Super-fresh nectarine, vanilla and Thai-basil aromas that don’t leave you in any doubt that this is a very remarkable dry riesling. Then the tidal wave of minerality comes through at the finish and sweeps everything away. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94+ Points “From a 2.8 hectare clos that is the highest, coolest and stoniest (sandstone/gravel) plot of the Bürgergarten, the 2017 Riesling Bürgergarten “Im Breumel” GG offers a deep, ripe, lush and intense bouquet with fascinating flavors of crushed stones and ripe fruits. Lush and intense on the palate, this is a deep, dense, very complex and powerful dry Riesling with lingering salinity and very fine tannins. Great but way too young. Tasted in Haardt, December 2019.”
Wine Spectator 94 Points “Extremely elegant and precisely crafted, with notes of star anise and lavender framing the core of crunchy pear and blood orange flavors. The acidity is appreciable, fueling the flavors and spice accents. Savory mineral details linger on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2031.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, Stuart Pigott – Jamessuckling 95 Points “Stunning nectarine, peach and papaya character, together with lovely succulence and enormous vitality, make this a breathtaking sweet Spätlese with a finish that’s straight as a laser beam and super-clean. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2018 750ML ($49.95) $33 special
Stuart Pigott 94 Points “Effusive aromas of apricots and lemon zest with hints of summer flowers. At once succulent, graceful and finely nuanced on the palate, then very long and filigree at the finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 93 Points “The Burgergarten in the Haardt vineyard as used by the famed Mueller-Catoir, or hill garden, is a Premier Cru site that is composed of weathered yellow sandstone interspersed with layer of loess and clay giving the perfect conditions to make a lush, but crisply dry Riesling of refined elegance and with a concentrated underlying power, which in 2017 is incredible and joyously perfumed. ….The 2017 Burgergarten Trocken [has] exotic tropical fruit and floral aromas with plumeria, jasmine, dried pineapple, gingery/peppery notes and grilled citrus leading the way on the racy palate, this Riesling feels a bit like Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile, adding layers of wild peach, while cherry, tangy apricot and zesty lime notes along with loads of tannin like structure, zippy acidity, chalky stones and a Chablis like steely edge! Air brings more body out and clears the touch of reduction that easily blows and this Riesling becomes in fact more white Burgundy like in some ways, while also gaining hints of spearmint, chamomile and verbena, which clearly are Riesling influences and it is strikingly impressive for keeping its tension , clarity and severity, like a firm GG should…This area can produce monumental dry Riesling, as witnessed here with this Erste Lage Trocken from Mueller-Catoir….Terry Theise, Mueller-Catoir’s famous importer, says the estate produces wines of outstanding transparency and density, and remains emblematic of Riesling at its most sophisticated, and I totally agree, these are amazingly pure wines that are both wildly entertaining in expression and wines of remarkable class and finesse…. This Burgergarten grows on you with every sip and should get even more intriguing with 3 to 5 years more are on it, patience I think will be well rewarded, and I hope I get to revisit it a few more times.”
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92+ Points“From yellow-colored sandstone soils, the 2017 Riesling Bürgergarten “VDP. Erste Lage” is intense yet fine and pure on the slightly salty/stony, very elegant nose with its ripe and concentrated yellow-fleshed fruit aromas. The palate is pure and salty, very long and intertwines weathered terroir aromas with an airiness and lingering, very stimulating salinity. The wine is less textured than the Haardter but even more pure, deep, finessed and salty. Bone dry, with less than three grams of residual sugar, this is a concentrated yet still young Riesling that will shine in five years. Tasted in Haardt, December 2019.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Muller-Catoir Gimmeldingen Riesling, Pfalz 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special,
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 93 Points “Ripe white and yellow peaches and just enough acidity to lift the medium-full body and give the long finish some real drive. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Muller-Catoir Haardter Muskateller Trocken Pfalz 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 92 Points “Wonderful pink-grapefruit and muscat nose that bowls you over. So joyful and really rather subtle for a seriously aromatic grape variety. Very bright finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.”
Muller-Catoir Haardter Riesling Trocken Pfalz 2017 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 94 Points “A stunning, bone-dry riesling for this moderate price level! Fine nose of sliced pears and honeysuckle. Stunning freshness and purity on the medium-full palate. The finish is subtlety reminiscent of Mosel. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 92 Points“The 2017 Müller-Catoir Haardt Trocken is exotic and highly aromatic with lovely fruit and mineral intensity, it is a wonderful and crisply dry Riesling that reflects the vintage and its remarkable Pfalz terroir.… the talented Martin Franzen [is] running the cellar here. Franzen, who in the past ran the operations at Schlossgut Diel, employs a strict program with a move to organic practices and severe selections in the vineyards, where everything is worked and picked by hand now and focuses on ultra transparency in the wines with a reductive approach, with every wine getting a hand crafted attention to detail. The Haardt, a village bottling is a pure example with expressive bright flavors and a heavenly floral perfume, while being brisk, tangy and dusty dry on the light framed palate. Müller-Catoir does a gentle crush and gives the juice plenty of time on the skins before a slow and soft pressing before an stainless steel fermentation and aging, all to preserve vibrancy and purity, the wines are always stylish and evocative.…The Haardt Riesling Trocken is all from organic grapes that were grown on standstone soils, which gives this wine its pretty nose and steely form, and this 2017 is absolutely seducing with a complex array of sensations that ranges from tropical essences to flinty wet stones, it is clear and with a tiny hint of sunshine in the glass. In the mouth this calcareous influenced Riesling shows jasmine, oyster shell, peach, tart apricot, green apple and saline notes, adding guava/papaya, rosewater and hint of zesty lime.…this one itself is fabulous and a true value offering from this great estate. I am glad I got a few bottles of Müller-Catoir from 2017, they are looking like classics. This is a great Summer refresher, but serious enough to hang out with haute cuisine, it gets more intriguing with matching food, it can go with a wide variety of foods from fresh shellfish, spicy prawns, sushi as well as cured meats, picnic fare, street tacos and Moroccan lemon chicken even. This vivid and zippy young Riesling is a quality white that makes for a nice alternative for Chablis, Kiwi Sauv Blanc and or Albarino, drink it over the next 3 to 5 years.”
Stephen Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 90 Points “From younger vines and partly from sandier soils than the regular, yellow-colored Buntsandstein, the 2017 Riesling Haardt is deep, fine and ripe on the elegant and balanced nose. Full-bodied, lush and intense on the palate, this is a deep, dry, well-balanced and textured Riesling with a ripe but salty-mineral acidity and a long, well-structured and slightly salty finish with nice bitters and citrus flavors. This is an excellent vin de terroir that slowly opens up. It’s an impressive wine in the lower/medium price range. Tasted in December 2019.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Muller-Catoir Haardt Scheurebe Pfalz 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Winery Note “With its delicate bouquet of tropical fruits such as pineapple and grapefruit as well as gooseberry and cassis, this Haardt Scheurebe is focussed on freshness, vitality, and the exotic.”
Muller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Auslese Pfalz 2015 375ML ($39.95) $31.90 special
Wine Advocate 94 Points “The 2015 Riesling Auslese Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten is super pure and fine on the nobly concentrated, stony nose with its honey and bright fruit aromas. Rich, sweet, lush and piquant on the palate, this is an excellent Auslese with great finesse and a lingering piquancy. Despite its sweetness, this is a very stimulating and pure Auslese with great ageing potential.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Muller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Trocken Pfalz 2017 750ML ($59.95) $33 special
Stuart Pigott-Jamessuckling 95 Points “Why drink a dry white called scheurebe? Here’s the answer. An enormously complex nose of grapefruit, cassis and pineapple, then breathtaking purity and elegance on the palate and a totally uplifting and super-long finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 93 Points “I love Scheurebe and this Mueller-Catoir is one of, if not the, best dry version, with this ripe and expressive 2017 showing everything the grape has to offer, it delivers intensity and aromatic quality. It’s a thrilling German white wine from one of the most admired wineries in the Pfalz. This vintage is bursting from the glass with jasmine, liquid roses and spearmint lifting to the nose while the light to medium bodied palate delivers tangy grapefruit, white peach, quince, sour apple and pineapple fruits along with chalky mineral, saline, clove spice, wild fennel and the crisp, lip smacking finish keeps things severe and refreshing.… Scheurebe grows best in Calcareous soils, with Muller-Catoir’s Pfalz version regarded as maybe the greatest expression of this grape, in particular their Trocken single Cru Haardter Mandelring example. The full range of wines at this property are amazing from the thrilling dry wines to the finely balanced sweet wines, everything at Mueller-Catoir is class, when it comes to the Pfalz, this and Von Winning are must try wines….Müller-Catoir has gone holistic in recent years and farm mostly organic, but remain very practical with absolute quality demanded of the grapes here, there is no compromise at this place, they focus on purity and terroir. The vineyards in Haardt, where this wine comes from, are composed of primary rock (urgestein) and sandstone, with an increasing proportion of gravel lower on the slopes. This estate and the region has a long history of winegrowing with the Burgergarten site being first planted close to 700 years ago, and, as the winery notes. Mueller-Catoir which has a tradition of reductive winemaking implementing a gentle crush, a long skin contact, slow gentle pressing, and then ferments at warmer, according to the winery again, than customary fermentation temperatures in stainless steel to promote transparency, which this lovely Scheurebe shows, drink it over the next 3 to 5 years.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
We also have other bottlings of Catoir available, including backvintages and single vineyard bottlings!
Franco Serra: Spectacular and Storied
Who said that established wineries had to be expensive? Franco Serra has been making wine for over 100 years and still is one of the best buys in Piedmont. Founded in 1911 by Antonio Sperone, the wineries goal since their founding was to offer affordable wine. These goals reached their apex with the purchase of 75 acres in Piedmont, where they planted Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto. Their wines offer a budget friendly exploration into the region, with each of the wines featuring Piedmont’s classic “warm brick” minerality. These are perfect for wine education, gifting or a night with pizza.
Newly Arrived from Franco Serra:
Franco Serra Barbaresco DOCG Piedmont 2018 750ML ($37.95) $30.90 special
James Suckling 91 points “Plenty of pretty, wild strawberries and boysenberries, as well as raspberries and spice undertones. Medium to full body, some attractive tannin bite and a medium-chewy finish. Drink from 2020.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Franco Serra Barolo DOCG Piedmont 2016 750ML ($41.95) $38 special
James Suckling 94 points “Aromas of plums, cherries and ash with hints of tea and toffee follow through to a full body with layered, chewy tannins and lots of chocolate and walnuts at the finish. Needs a number of years to soften and come together, but I am impressed. Try after 2022.”
Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo Piedmont 2019 750ML ($17.95) $16 special
James Suckling 91 points “Pure, nebbiolo fruit with strawberry and light cherry character. Medium to light body and a nice texture and finish. Drink now and enjoy.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Franco Serra Pinot Noir Piedmont 2020 750ML ($15.95) $14 special
Case-12 Franco Serra Pinot Noir Piedmont 2020 750ML ($189.95) $149 special, (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
*Case price for in-store pickup only*
James Suckling 91 points “A nice core of red fruit here, together with some floral and fresh-herb notes. Medium-bodied with firm, slightly chewy tannins that close down the fruit a little for now. But shows promise and should even out with a little time. Try in 2022”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Love Northern Italian Reds? We have over 214 bottlings available.
Rare, Classic and Lauded Wines:
We’ve taken the liberty of assembling some of the rarest, highest rated and exclusive wines that we carry. Representing wines from around the Old and New World,
Mad Haus Marienberg Blaufrankisch Leithaberg 2015 750ML ($21.95) $11.90 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Case-12 Mad Haus Marienberg Blaufrankisch Leithaberg 2015 750ML ($199.95) $126 special,
Winery note “This wine is produced in the Neusiedlersee-Hugelland region of Austria where vibrant Jewish societies known as ‘The Seven Communities’ flourished for many centuries and constitute the foundation of contemporary Jewish history. The vineyards in this district are known for their high quality and were used by The Seven Communities to produce Kosher wine. [Labeled Kosher for Pesach (Passover), not mevushal.]… Our Kosher wines were produced under Rabbi M. Scharf – Kedassia London – in our winery with the Strictest Kosher Seal.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($34.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Sandhi Zuni Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2019 750ML ($399.95) $249 special, (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Winery note “If you’ve ever sat at San Francisco’s iconic Zuni Café with a plate of oysters in front of you while you wait for the iconic whole roast chicken, you may have had a glass or two of this collaboration between longtime friends Rajat Parr of Sandhi and Zuni wine director Thierry Lovato. The wine is a barrel selection from some of Sandhi’s iconic Sta. Rita Hills sites, (think Mt. Carmel, Sanford & Benedict) with enough own-rooted, 1973 Wente selection Bien Nacido Chardonnay blended in to warrant a Santa Barbara County designation.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Mosel *** GK 2013 375ML ($179.95) $149 special, 4 half-bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 100 points “The smoky slate aroma of the Sonnenuhr is still obvious in the beautifully clear, lush and delicate 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese *** that offers pineapples, ripe apples and limes powdered with rock flour on the nose. The wine seems weightless on the palate, although it is nothing less than a sweet, sumptuously delicious and breathtakingly fine Auslese with perfectly ripe and painstakingly selected Riesling berries. The finish is intense in a very subtle way, lingeringly salty and piquant, and the purity and elegance in combination with the sensual fruit juice is absolutely delicious. This is an amazing wine.”
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De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Brut Millesime 2006 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The assemblage of the 2006 Louis XV Brut Millésimé is about the same as the 1995 and 1996—composed of 50/50 Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, all from grand cru villages. The only difference is that the Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (10% of the assemblage) spent 12 months in oak barrels. Disgorged in January 2017 (dosage: six grams per liter), the 2006 has a golden color and opens with a deep, ripe, elegant and vinous bouquet with toasty and chalky lemon and fresh white fruit flavors. On the palate, this is an intense, round, fresh and complex Louis XV with great purity and finesse. The wine opens on the palate like a soufflé, coating the whole palate without any pressure or weight—gorgeous! This is a delicate and fresh yet well-structured and persistent Louis XV whose intense and long but weightless finish reveals lovely, almost juicy fruit concentration with perfectly integrated freshness and lasting minerality that seems to give additional structure. The 2006 shows a lot of Chardonnay features right now and drinks perfectly today; however, it can be kept under perfect conditions for decades. Just keep it in the box, because the bottle is white and nothing makes a Champagne age faster than exposure to daylight. (Tasted in November 2017 from Lot LL15067017BT.)-SR”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Brut Millesime 2008 750ML ($299.95) $249 special, 16 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 95 points “This is really punchy and broad-shouldered with muscular structure and citrusy undertones. Full body. Lightly tannic and a fresh and vivid finish. This is the first vintage without malolactic fermentation ever. One for the cellar. Better in 2022.”
Wine Advocate 93+ points “The straw-yellow/white-golden colored 2008 Louis XV Brut Millésimé blends 50% Chardonnay (20 % from Avize, 15% from Oger and 15% from Mesnil) with 50% Pinot Noir (41.5% from Verzenay and 8.5% from Bouzy). Disgorged in January 2018 with a dosage of six grams per liter, the 2008 displays a clear, pure, fresh, chalky-tinged and vinous nose with lemon, white fruits, brioche, hazelnuts, white blossoms and some caramel notes. Pure, lean, fresh and elegant on the palate, with a lingering hazelnut flavor, this is a straight yet complex cuvée with grip and a long, well-structured and textured finish. This 2008 is still terribly fresh and should benefit from further bottle aging. For the moment, I am missing the mouth-filling generosity of the 2006 and 1995. Mind that this is the first vintage of de Venoge’s prestigious Louis XV where the base wines didn’t undergo malolactic fermentation! Total production: 10,326 bottles. Tasted October 2018.”
De Venoge Louis XV de Venoge Extra Brut Rose Millesime 2002 750ML ($219.95) $189 special, 25 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “Harmonious, with fine intensity, offering rich notes of spice cake, toasted almond, dried cherry, grilled plum and smoky mineral. Almost velvety in texture, with juicy acidity that brings you back for another sip. Delicious. Drink now through 2022. 54 cases made.”
Pian dell’Orino Bassolino di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2010 750ML ($799.95) $599 special, 1 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 100 points “The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Bassolino di Sopra is the equivalent of the estate’s Riserva. Only 3,000 bottles were made and the wine was not produced in 2009 or 2008. Nor will it be made in 2011 or 2013. Future editions are 2012 and 2015. Bassolino di Sopra is silky and smooth, but it also has a fine textural fabric that gives the wine an enormous sense of tactile intensity in terms of mouthfeel. This is a magnificent achievement with an extreme sense of purity and freshness that is elegant and streamlined. The bouquet reveals slight and miniature shifts in its evolution that keep your curiosity as you contemplate the wine in the glass. Wild berry is followed by a steady stream of balsam herb, cola, crushed oyster shell and delicate floral tones. The vineyards are located between 330 and 370 meters above sea level with limestone deposits and red soils. Farming is biodynamic.”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Pian dell’Orino 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Bassolino di Sopra is shaping up to be another of the wines of the vintage. Lavender, spices, menthol, tobacco and dark stone fruits meld together in a vivid Brunello of extraordinary beauty. Tasted alongside the Versante Amiata, the Bassolino di Sopra presents darker tonalities of fruit, a more vertical sense of structure support by spine of firm tannin, and a powerful personality. The 2010 is a fascinating wine to follow, as it becomes weightless and refined with the passage of time. Sadly, I could not spend all afternoon with the Bassolino di Sopra, but this is a deep, contemplative Brunello that will thrill readers for many, many years.” AG
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Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT Tuscany 2012 750ML ($99.95) $69 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points “A dark, brooding wine, the 2012 Giusto di Notri presents a compelling array of dark stone fruits, grilled herbs, smoke, tobacco and menthol. The power of Suvereto and these Bordeaux varieties are both super-expressive in a virile, imposing wine loaded with personality and gorgeous, totally resonant fruit. This is a terrific showing.”
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Dal Forno Romano Vigneto Monte Lodoletta Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2010 750ML ($349.95) $319 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Decanter 98 points “2010 is a more considered vintage compared to the outright opulence of 2009, but it’s no shrinking violet, especially in Dal Forno’s hands. This has a meaty nose with savoury hedgerow fruit , surprisingly open already. I had to put an exclamation mark after writing ‘elegant’ in my notes, as it seems incomprehensible that a wine of this magnitude could still have such balletic balance. It is broad and juicy, with chalky grip and clean, fresh acids followed by a hint of warmth on the long finish.”
James Suckling 97 points “Aromas of roses and other flowers with a deep fruit intensity. Full-bodied, dense and ultra-fine with a beautiful texture. Lots of new wood now but this will amalgamate with time into the wine. Fabulous potential. Drink or hold.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “This was an excellent vintage in much of Italy, but unfortunately the weather was not as pleasant in this specific area of the Valpolicella. The season saw a lot of rain, and a good amount of fruit was cut and left on the ground because it could not be used. Considering these difficulties, Michele Dal Forno tells me he is “more than happy with the results.” I tasted the 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta next to the 2009 vintage, and having these two wines side by side reinforces just how different they are. The 2010 vintages is sharper, more pointed and direct in comparison, and there is a tiny point of sourness on the close. This wine does not reach the same threshold for fullness, density or richness. It does come close. The wine’s residual sugar measures between 5 and 6 grams per liter, which is normal for this wine, and the bouquet is redolent of familiar black fruit, raisin and spice. However, the wine feels a bit stuck in its tracks at the moment and is evidently experiencing a shy phase in its evolution. It has retreated.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Like a gymnast, this focused red shows both power and grace. Finely meshed flavors of blackberry puree, fig cake and Earl Grey tea leaf are framed by refined, dusty tannins, with a lasting finish expands on the palate with spice and smoky mineral details. Drink now through 2030. 450 cases imported. — AN”
Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru MCMLV Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($1499.95) $849 special, 1 bottles in stock now
Neal Rosenthal note “For the first time, Laurent Lignier produced a separate cuvée of Clos de la Roche in 2017 in honor of his grandfather Henri. The Clos de la Roche “MCMLV” comes entirely from Henri’s first planting in 1955: 27 rows of Pinot Noir in the Monts Luisants climat, which he used to propagate the rest of his holdings during the 1960s. This original parcel is highly susceptible to millerandage, which results in small berries of immense concentration, and Laurent harnessed the full power and intensity of such fruit in this stupendous bottling—of which he produced a mere two barrels. A wine such as this embodies Burgundy’s most profound essence: the continuous spirit and presence of a family whose members’ very hands have worked these same vines, this same parcel, since the vines were planted. How could Henri Lignier, when he was breaking earth in 1955, have ever imagined the course his home region would take over the ensuing decades, or the global acclaim that would be heaped on his son’s and his grandsons’ wines? Yet, despite the incredible changes those ensuing 65 years have witnessed, a Lignier has steadfastly worked each vine among these 27 rows of Clos de la Roche, vintage after vintage, gradually building its reputation as one of red Burgundy’s pinnacles. “MCMLV” is not just a great wine, then; it is an emblem of all that makes Burgundy special.”
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Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Beze Les Ouvrees Rodin Grand Cru Burgundy 2016 750ML ($1499.95) $1049 special, 3 Bottles in stock now
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru Les Ouvrées Rodin is showing brilliantly from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, cherries, red berries, grilled game, licorice, spices and smoky new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and expansive, with a deep and intense core of sapid fruit that cloaks its satiny but abundant structuring tannins, underpinned by succulent acids and concluding with a seriously long, penetrating finish. This special cuvée hails from a parcel of vines planted in 1966 on the Chambertin side of Clos de Bèze, and its name commemorates a Faiveley family connection with the sculptor Rodin.”
Stephen Tanzer 95-98 points “(like the “regular” Clos de Bèze, this special cuvée from 60+-year-old vines on the Chambertin side of the cru was totally destemmed): Dark red-ruby. Less expressive but slightly riper aromas of purple and black fruits and pungent spices. Then utterly seamless and suave on the palate, offering a lacy, feminine texture with great energy and sophistication. The penetrating red berry and white pepper flavors are amplified by the wine’s mineral underpinning. The endless rising finish combines serious power and refined tannins. Ultimately a bit less expressive and tight-grained than the classic Clos de Bèze but this is even deeper.”
Burghound 94-97 points “(a selection of the oldest vines in one of their 3 parcels). This is aromatically similar to the regular cuvée save for being even spicier and displaying a bit more wood influence. There is almost painful intensity to the super-sleek big-bodied flavors that possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel due to a mid-palate that brims with sappy dry extract that coats the mouth on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced finale. While this may change given that these are barrel samples but based on the two that I tasted, this is actually slightly less structured though I emphasize slightly. Either way, this is a seriously impressive effort that should age effortlessly. (94-97)/2034+.”
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Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Vieille Vigne Cote de Nuits 2016 750ML ($1499.95) $1199 special, 1 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 96 points “The 2016 Griotte-Chambertin from Domaine Fourrier is a great wine in the making. The bouquet is pure, sappy and quite expressive, but the palate is still on the primary side and the wine will deserve a fully twelve to fourteen years in the cellar to start to properly stir from hibernation. The nose is a superb blend of red and black cherries, gamebird, a very complex base of chalky soil tones, woodsmoke, spicy oak, mustard seed and a pungent topnote of roses. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and already quite velvety on the attack, with a sappy core, lovely transparency and grip, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy, refined and laser-like focus. There will be plenty of temptation to drink this on the earlier side, unless it closes up significantly after bottling, but it would be crime to really touch a bottle before at least 2030! 2030-2100.”
Decanter 95 points “The Griotte is beautiful in 2016, the inherent elegance of the vineyard synthesising perfectly with Fourrier’s limpid style. Aromas of cherry, raspberry, rose petal and liquorice mingle with subtle nuances of rich soil, introducing a full-bodied, silky wine, its fine, chalky tannins cloaked in a deep and ample core of pure, glossy and succulent fruit. This should be very special with some bottle age.Drinking Window 2026 – 2050.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92-95 points “Bright medium red. Light, lively scents of raspberry, rose petal, minerals, menthol and black pepper, with some riper earth and truffle notes lurking. Plush, sweet and fine-grained, showing a light touch but remaining quite closed in the mouth. Shows lovely floral and mineral nuances but this very suave wine will need time in bottle to come alive and express itself. Finishes with serious dusty tannins and less sweetness than Fourrier’s négociant Chambertin.”
Burghound 92-94 points “(from a .26 ha parcel planted in 1928). An elegant, pure and beautifully complex blend of cool red berries, rose petal and spice are trimmed in an all-but-invisible application of wood. There is the same lovely sense of underlying tension suffusing the sleekly muscular middle weight plus flavors that exude a subtle minerality onto the dusty, balanced and impressively persistent finish. This wine usually matures slowly and while it’s not firm to the point of youthful austerity, the tannic spine is sufficiently tightly wound to make clear that this needs patience. 2028+.”
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Sine Qua Non Into The Dark Grenache Sta Rita Hills 2004 1.5L ($2199.95) $1599 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Wine Advocate 99 points “More up-front and open-knit, the 2004 Into the Dark (Grenache) checks in as a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier that comes mostly from Manfred’s 11 Confessions Vineyard, yet includes small portions from Alban (10%) and Alta Mesa (9%) Vineyard. Reminding me of Clos Saint-Jean’s Sanctus Sanctorum with its incredible bouquet of sweet kirsch, licorice, dried baking spices, graphite and ground pepper, this beauty flows onto the palate with impeccable purity, perfect integration of its fruit, tannin and acidity, and blockbuster length. As is common with this estate’s wine, it’s the purity paired with serious richness that sets it apart. While still youthful and benefiting from a healthy decadence, I think it’s drinking at point and would aim to drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years. It will evolve gracefully for longer, but I see no reason to hold off.-JD”
Robert Parker 99 points “2004 Into the Dark: This absolutely magnificent wine is a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier, with most of it emerging from the estate’s 11 Confessions Vineyard. It still has a very opaque ruby/purple color, along with a sweet nose of graphite, wood smoke, spice box, white chocolate, kirsch and creme de cassis. Still quite infantile in terms of its development, the wine is full-bodied, with a 45- to 50-second finish. Another 2-3 years of cellaring will be beneficial, and it is certainly capable of lasting 10 or more years.”
This is the only magnum listing in the United States!
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Rivers and Roads:
Wines arriving Wednesday, January 26th
Wines arriving Wednesday, January 26th
Chateau Lagrange Pomerol, 1990 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Chateau Lagrange Pomerol, 1990 1990 750ML ($599.95) $449 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Chateau Lagrange Pomerol, 1990 1990 750ML ($1199.95) $869 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 94 points “Big, rustic and chewy red. Dark garnet color. Aromas of berries, leaves and wet earth. Full-bodied, with big, velvety tannins and a long coffee, ripe fruit aftertaste.–1990 Bordeaux retrospective.”
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Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 ($54.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 750ML ($319.95) $219 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 96 points “This is a ripe and full red with complex aromas of cedar, cloves, tobacco and dried mushrooms. Distinct, earthy quality underneath ripe plums and licorice. Layers of chocolatey tannins. Black truffles, too. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2024.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 points “The Fornacina 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens to a darkly saturated appearance and toasted aromas of roasted nut backed by dark blackberry fruit. Made with organic fruit, this Brunello is fermented in stainless steel and aged in large oak casks in a traditional and straightforward manner. Production in this vintage is 10,000 bottles. There is lot of intensity here, and the wine draws its power not only from the fruit, but also in large part from the oak aging. Indeed, its fruit-driven aromas share equal billing with campfire ash and smoked cedar or mahogany.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 91 points “The 2016 Fornacina is a dark and earthy expression of Brunello di Montalcino. Ashen soils, crushed stone and animal musk dominate its bouquet, with hints of black cherry buried deeply beneath. It’s silky and pliant, casting an array of black fruits and exotic savory spices across a medium-bodied frame. Balance is well maintained, and there’s a blending of sour citrus and nervous tension here that keeps you coming back to the glass. The Fornacina is quite unique yet highly enjoyable, and it won’t require much time to come fully into focus.”
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Domaine Lafage ‘Nicolas’ Grenache Noir Vieilles Vignes IGP Cotes Catalanes 2019 750ML ($21.95) $19 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Domaine Lafage ‘Nicolas’ Grenache Noir Vieilles Vignes IGP Cotes Catalanes 2019 750ML ($249.95) $208 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “All Grenache brought up in demi–muids and aged on lees for 8 months, the medium ruby/purple hued color of the 2019 Cuvée Nicolas is followed by a killer bouquet of kirsch liqueur, savory spices, cured meats, and peppery garrigue. Rich, medium to full-bodied, and gorgeously textured, it has wonderful richness with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It’s another insane value from this team.”
Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 750ML ($479.95) $389 pre-arrival special ($That’s only $64.83 per bottle)
Case-12 Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta San Leonardo ‘San Leonardo’ Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT Trentino-Alto Adige 2015 750ML ($959.95) $745 pre-arrival special ($that’s only $62.08 per bottle)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97+ points “The 2015 San Leonardo pours forth with a beautiful velvety appearance and sultry dark garnet color. This wine shows a lot of life and dark fruit purity with black plum, blackberry, cassis and tarry prune. There is a delightful note of black pepper that is specific to this warm and sunny vintage. The fruit shows softer and richer concentration compared to past vintages and more pulpy density that gives this edition a bigger profile in terms of mouthfeel. Production is 75,000 bottles. San Leonardo is a wine made for long aging, but the nice thing about this vintage is that the bouquet remains quite accessible at this young age. Nevertheless, I’d still suggest keeping this bottle in your cellar so that it can calmly finish its evolution.”
Decanter 96 points “San Leonardo is the iconic wine of the estate, and one of the most celebrated Bordeaux blends of Italy with its cool climate profile. The warm 2015 vintage doesn’t differ from the leaner style of the wine (compared to other Bordeaux blends), which is a good benchmark to understand the sense of elegance here. The nose sees purity of fruit (cassis) typical of Trentino Alto Adige, finely melted with leather and green pepper aromas. If you dislike wines with a slightly herbal aroma is understandable but here this touch adds another layer and the wine on the palate shines with silky, super elegant tannins. Refreshing and amazingly savoury, it plays well even with brasato or other powerful dishes of red meat. Drinking Window 2020 – 2040.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 95 points “The 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins slowly make themselves known toward the close. Long, structured and spicy, the 2015 finishes with a crescendo of tart blue and black fruits, tapering off to notes of subtly sweet spice. As good as this is today, it will only get better over time. That said, it doesn’t appear that this is going to shut down anytime in the immediate future, so it’s certainly worth checking on a bottle or two before forgetting the rest in your cellar.”
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Tuscany 2016 750ML ($79.95) $66 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 97 points “Attractive aromas of cherry, dark mushroom, bark and walnut follow through to a full body with lots of ripe cherry and berry character in the center palate. Firm, chewy tannins draw you down the palate. Extremely long. From organically grown grapes. Better than the superb 2015? Drink after 2023 and onwards.”
Collector’s Corner: Get Iced with Eiswein
Can you think of a wine more versatile than sweeter wines? There are few culinary experiences that can compare to eating something high in fat or exceptionally spicy with a sweeter style of wine. This is on account of the sweetness acting as a palate cleanser and the acid cutting through the fat. In addition to their organoleptic properties, acidity will act as a check and balance for the residual sugar (With some examples being perceptibly dry as a result!). For a more heightened experience, wines that have undergone botrytis and bottle age offer additional characteristics like crystallized ginger, Manuka honey, honeysuckle and caramel, in addition to greater complexity.
Eiswein is among the hardest wines to make on the planet, and is becoming rarer as climate change advances. This is on account of the time the Riesling grapes must spend on the vine as decreed by German law. During the extended hang time the grapes will freeze and thaw multiple times, further concentrating the sugars and acids. There’s an endless list of things that could go wrong for the selected clusters during this time. Between the risks of rotting, not freezing enough to be harvested as eiswein or simply eaten by passing birds, raccoons and deer you can see why production quantities are minuscule to say the least.
If that wasn’t herculean enough, the grapes are legally required to be harvested by hand and processed entirely frozen (Usually requiring harvest to be done between dusk and dawn). After all that the resulting wine features an entire kaleidoscope of flavors ranging from pineapple, lychee, guava, passionfruit, and Valencia orange. There’s also a definite mineral character on the finish, with an electric acidity that acts as a through line. These are among the most compelling sweet wines in the world, and one of the most endangered styles at that.
Eiswein in stock now:
Weingut Korrell Johanneshof Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Eiswein Nahe 2016 375ML ($99.95) $79 special, 23 half-bottles in stock now
***Half bottle***
Grapelive 94 points “Korrell is one of the Nahe’s latest break out stars and every wine I’ve tried from Martin Korrell has been absolutely stunning, including this Eiswein. Crafted from old vines at their estate monopole Paradies Vineyard in Bad Kreuznach, from those grapes that hang out until the first freeze and were individual berry picked off the vine. Concentrated in sugars, but still bristling with natural acidity the gorgeous and opulent 2016 Korrell Eiswein Paradies goes on and on in mouth. Even with the residual sugar levels off the carts, this wine stays incredibly balanced and doesn’t drink as sweet as you’d imagine, making for a heavenly experience from its perfumed nose to its lingering tropical fruits. This is entrancing stuff with layers of lychee, candied pineapple, apricot jelly, honeycomb, lime blossom, white roses, chamomile, a hint of spearmint, mineral spice and cool wet stone. A rare and exotic, this Korrell Eiswein is treat beyond words, and, while the Mosel is better known for sweet wines, I have found the Nahe in some vintages are more than equal. In fact I still think a contender for the greatest wine I ever tasted was one of Donnhoff’s version of Eiiswein from just up the river! While Tokaji and Sauternes grab sweet wine headlines, I honestly believe the Germans have them beat with TBA’s and Eiswein, because of the racy acidity that still remains in these Riesling beauties. Korrell used specially selected yeasts as there is no chance to do Sponti on the ultra concentrated Paradies Eiswein, it needs extra special attention to detail, Korrell adds. It is pressed in a special small press for sweet wines with low quantity, read tiny production, but not wooden because they don’t want too much air contact [so as] to keep and preserve the exotic fruit aromas as much as possible as well as fresh details. Tasted from 375ml, half bottle, the 2016 Korrell Paradies Eiswein is an amazing product, and sadly isn’t listed in the United States as of yet, though their Trocken(s) should be available later this spring or early summer, so remember this one for if and when you get to Germany.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Weingut Prinz Hallgartener Wurzgarten Riesling Eiswein 2016 375ML ($149.95) $119 special, 12 half-bottles in stock now
This is the only listing in the USA today!
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