3/16/16
Flash Sales; Domaine Drouhin World Premier; Newly Arrived: Chapoutier, Cayuse & Quilceda Creek; Cameron Ribbon Ridge – Arriving Friday; Clos Cibonne; Staff Pick & New Grapelive Reviews; Bitouzet-Prieur – 2012, 2013 & 2014 Vintages; Isole e Olena; Bruna Grimaldi; Champagne in Focus
Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Millesime Brut 2004 750ML ($179.95) Was $139, Now $126, 15 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2004 Dom Ruinart is just as brilliant and viscerally thrilling as it has always been. If anything, the 2004 has shut down considerably over the last six months. Tightly coiled and exceptionally beautiful, the 2004 boasts fabulous intensity, class and pedigree. The flavors are vibrant, chiseled and crystalline in their precision. Time in bottle is doing wonders for the 2004. This is a tremendous showing.” AG
Case-6 Franciscan Estate Cuvee Sauvage Chardonnay, Carneros 2012 750ML ($159.95) Was $119, Now $99, 8 six-packs available (that’s only $16.50/bottle!)
Wine Enthusiast 91 points “A classic Napa Valley Chardonnay, this is smooth, rich, balanced and well composed. Flowery aromas of honeysuckle open the way for lemon curd and ripe apple to compete with a depth of crème brûlée character that provides plenty of complexity, with additional accents of honey and spice.”
Now it is even lower!
The next best price is $29.99
The average price is $34
Zorzal Gran Terroir Malbec, Tupungato, Argentina 2013 750ML ($27.95) Was $21.90, Now $18, 22 bottles available
Case-12 Zorzal Gran Terroir Malbec, Tupungato, Argentina 2013 750ML ($299.95) Was $239, Now $196, 4 cases available
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2013 Gran Terroir Malbec is a blend from different vineyards in Gualtallary, the highest part of the department of Tupungato in the Valle de Uco. The grapes fermented in cement vats and matured in used oak barrels for approximately one year. It’s very perfumed and spicy, aromatic in a way that makes you go to the glass over and over again. The palate has the 2013 electricity and the Gualtallary chalkiness making for supple, tasty and saline flavors and a very long finish. Simply superb!” LG
Arrives Friday, March 18th
The Drouhin family has been a presence in Oregon since 1987 when Robert Drouhin purchased land in the Dundee Hills. The Roserock Vineyard was purchased by the domaine in 2013. Nestled in the southern tip of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, the cooler climate and volcanic soils offer outstanding potential. It is certainly in good company: other esteemed vineyard neighbors include Cristom and Seven Springs.
Drouhin Oregon Roserock Vineyard Eola- Amity Chardonnay 2014 750ML ($34.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Domaine Drouhin Roserock Vineyard Chardonnay 2014 750ML ($189.95) $159 pre-arrival special (that’s only $26.50/bottle!)
The Chardonnay was fermented half in barrel and half in tank.
Winery note “Our Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay cuvée is drawn from Roserock’s three estate Chardonnay blocks. It clearly conveys winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s dedication to elegance and finesse, and continues a long tradition of producing fine wines.”
Drouhin Oregon Roserock Vineyard Eola-Amity Pinot Noir 2014 750ML ($34.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Domaine Drouhin Roserock Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 750ML ($189.95) $159 pre-arrival special (that’s only $26.50/bottle!)
Aged for 12 months in barrel, 20% new French oak.
Winery note “Our Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir cuvée is drawn from Roserock’s 35 estate Pinot Noir blocks. It clearly conveys winemaker Véronique Drouhin’s dedication to elegance and finesse, and continues a long tradition of producing fine wines.”
And don’t miss the special sale on the good old DDO, arriving Friday:
Domaine Drouhin Arthur Chardonnay, Dundee Hills 2013 750ML ($37.95) $30.90 pre-arrival special
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “From 20-year-old, Dijon clone estate vines, this substantial, tongue-gripping Chardonnay has intense depth of flavor. A luscious mix of grapefruit, apple, melon, spice and mineral elements, it drives down through the palate and never quits.”
Domaine Drouhin Laurene Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Bright ruby. Heady red and dark fruit liqueur, candied rose, allspice and woodsmoke scents show excellent clarity and a complicating hint of licorice. Palate-staining blackberry and spicecake flavors open nicely in the middle palate, picking up floral pastille and cola nuances and a hint of black tea. Rich and broad but energetic too, finishing with powerful spicy thrust and velvety tannins.” JR
Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2014 750ML ($44.95) $38 pre-arrival special
Winery notes: “True to its growing season, our 2014 Dundee Hills is a medium-deep garnet color, with a dark core. On the nose, the wine is refined, with clear notes of spice, rose, black cherry, plum, and sweet red fruits, all wrapped in an earthiness that lends a surprising rustic touch. On the palate, the aromatics follow through with layered spice, white pepper, dark cherry and black berry, framed by youthful tannins. The finish is long and the texture has real depth.”
Newly Arrived:
Chapoutier, Cayuse & Quilceda Creek
M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette Blanc 2012 750ML ($99.95) $49 special
Case-6 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette Blanc 2012 750ML ($549.95) $259 special (that’s only $43.17/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 94 points “A wine reviewed last year, the 2012 Hermitage Chante Alouette comes from three separate parcels on Hermitage Hill; Meal, Les Murets and Chante Alouette. I rated it identically this go around, but it’s such a fabulous wine I decided to include it again. White peach, white flowers, honeysuckle, brioche and tropical notes all emerge from this stunning white, and while it’s not cheap, it represents a smoking value. Don’t miss it. “
The average price is $90
The next best price is $75.89
Wine Advocate 97 points “I thought the 2008 Syrah Bionic Frog was insanely good. Checking in at 14.4% natural alcohol (the 2009 was 14.7 and the 2010 14.8), it has soaring notes of cassis, black raspberries, violets, white flowers, mint and olives to go with a full-bodied, ultra-pure, silky, yet concentrated and layered feel on the palate. One of the more elegant, silky and finesse driven examples of this cuvee, it has heavenly aromatics and will have upward of two decades of longevity.”
The average price is $293
Cayuse Vineyards Bionic Frog Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2010 750ML ($349.95) $299 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 100 points “This insanely good 2010 Syrah Bionic Frog offers incredible notes of blood orange, liquid violets, cassis, seared meats, licorice and crushed rocks to go with full-bodied richness, ultra-fine tannic structure, perfectly integrated acidity and a blockbuster finish. Raised in roughly 20% new demi-muids and foudre, this is a heavenly Syrah that couldn’t get any better. Give it 2-4 years in the cellar and enjoy bottles through 2030.”
The next best price is $399
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2011 Syrah Bionic Frog is another rocking Syrah from Christophe that does everything right. Creme de cassis, blackberry, smoked earth, toasted spice and violets emerge from the glass, and it flows onto the palate with full-bodied richness, beautiful purity of fruit and brilliant length. Gaining more minerality with time in the glass, it will continue to flesh out nicely with another handful of years in the cellar, and have two decades of ultimate longevity.”
The average price is $265
Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2008 750ML ($219.95) $189 special
Wine Enthusiast 99 points –Editor’s Choice–“The flagship wine from Quilceda Creek offers exotic scents of plum, cassis, loam, coffee and pine sap, a rich and evocative blend. The wine delivers all that is promised and more; it is deep and dense with flavor, polished, focused and persistent. Vanilla, espresso, fine tannins, luscious acids and cascading fruits.”
Wine Advocate 97+ points “More pure and focused than the 2009, with a slightly closer to the vest feel, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon shows the cooler nature of the vintage and has incredible detail, purity and freshness to its aromas and flavors. A blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot that spent 22 months in 100% new French oak, it offers classic black currant, spice box, coffee bean, violets and exotic spices to go with an ethereal, layered and seamless palate that delivers massive amounts of fruit and texture without any apparent weight. I thoroughly enjoyed it now, yet it will age for decades. Drink now-2033.”Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2009 750ML ($219.95) $189 special
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “A bold, muscular, striking wine with nerves of steel, this offers a dense, demanding array of black fruit threaded with veins of espresso, smoke, tar, tobacco and iron. As it bursts with exotic barrel flavor, the fruit seems a bit buried, but time after time these wines unfold over the course of decades into glorious maturity. These are arguably the most long-lived and cellarworthy wines in Washington—if not in the entire country.”Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2010 750ML ($219.95) $199 special
Wine Advocate 98+ points “Rich, backwards, structured and massively concentrated, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon comes mostly from the Champoux Vineyard (also from Galitzine, Klipsun, Palengat and Tapteil) and is comprised of 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot that spent 22 months in all new French oak. Offering up plenty of creme de cassis, coffee bean, toasted spice, pencil shavings and violet-like qualities on the nose, it has palate staining levels of extract and tannin that come through on the mid-palate and finish. Gorgeously full-bodied, layered and textured, with perfect balance, this awesome Cabernet needs to be forgotten for 5-6 years and will have two to three decades of longevity. Drink 2018-2030.”
Arriving March 18th:
Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2011 750ML ($199.95) $149 pre-arrival special, 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “More serious, and one of the wines of the vintage, the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) has uncommon concentration and depth in the vintage, as well as a broad, structured profile that will allow it to age gracefully. Loaded with sweet creme de cassis, exotic spice, licorice and graphite, it’s a full-bodied, elegant and classically styled effort that has nothing out of place, fine, building tannin and a rock star finish. It will be approachable at an earlier stage than most vintages, yet still have two decades of longevity.” JD
Also Available Here Now from Cayuse and Quilceda Creek:
Cayuse Vineyards Cailloux Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2006 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 98 points “The deepest colored of the lineup, as well as the most powerful and concentrated, the 2006 Syrah Cailloux Vineyard is Hermitage-like with its dark, meaty core of fruit, iodine, chocolate and mineral-laced aromas and flavors. Not harvested until mid-October and aged in 15% new French oak barrels, this full-bodied, decadent and concentrated Syrah has another handful of years before hitting full-maturity, and will have 25+ years of ultimate longevity. It’s a tour de force in Syrah from Washington State!”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Plush and polished, this brims with cherry and blackberry aromas and flavors that are nicely shaded with streaks of mineral and green olive. Supple, harmonious and expressive as the finish keeps sailing on and on.”
Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2003 750ML ($349.95) $299 special, 1 bottle available
Robert Parker 100 points “Another wine I’ve had multiple times recently, the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon (97% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Merlot) is pure perfection in a glass and yields off-the-hook aromatics of cassis, black raspberries, tobacco leaf, pepper and licorice. Deep, layered and even elegant, with a seamless texture that conceals the sheer wealth of material present, it builds through the mid-palate, possesses huge amounts of extract and masses of polished tannin on the finish. Despite the overall size, it never loses its Cabernet Sauvignon soul and has an almost Bordeaux-like savoriness and tannic frame. Still young (yet gorgeous none the less), it can be enjoyed now or cellared for another 10-15+ years. Drink now-2028. ” RP
Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2005 750ML ($219.95) $279 special, 2 bottles available
Robert Parker 100 points “From a hot vintage and incredible any way you look at it, the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon has that laser-like focus of a cooler year, yet the voluptuousness and richness of a warmer year. Smoked black fruits, coffee, truffle and pen ink-like aromas and flavors all emerge from this massive, incredibly full-bodied effort and on the palate, it carries itself perfectly with a weightless, yet decadent texture, masses of polished tannin and blockbuster length. More classic and textbook than the 2007, it is every bit as good. Enjoy it over the coming two decades or more. Drink now-2033.” RP
Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2007 750ML ($319.95) $269 special, 2 bottles available
Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2007 1.5L ($599.95) $519 special, 1 magnum available
Robert Parker 100 points “A monumental wine in the making, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of those wines that presents such an over the top array of aromas and flavors that it’s hard to figure out what you think about it with just a quick glance. It’s only with the second or third sip that you really start to see how special this effort truly is. Offering up perfumed, intense aromas of plum, violets, ink, licorice and black currants, it flows onto the palate with a massive, incredibly full-bodied texture that builds through the mid-palate and carries layers of polished tannins, awesome purity of fruit and blockbuster length. Most likely not for everyone given the sheer size, it is an incredible wine in my opinion. Still tasting like a barrel sample, it will have 30+ total years of longevity. Drink 2017-2037.” RP
Wine Enthusiast 99 points –Editor’s Choice–“The flagship wine from Quilceda Creek offers exotic scents of plum, cassis, loam, coffee and pine sap, a rich and evocative blend. The wine delivers all that is promised and more; it is deep and dense with flavor, polished, focused and persistent. Vanilla, espresso, fine tannins, luscious acids and cascading fruits.”
Wine Advocate 97+ points “More pure and focused than the 2009, with a slightly closer to the vest feel, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon shows the cooler nature of the vintage and has incredible detail, purity and freshness to its aromas and flavors. A blend of 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot that spent 22 months in 100% new French oak, it offers classic black currant, spice box, coffee bean, violets and exotic spices to go with an ethereal, layered and seamless palate that delivers massive amounts of fruit and texture without any apparent weight. I thoroughly enjoyed it now, yet it will age for decades. Drink now-2033.”Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2012 750ML ($249.95) $219 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon is brilliant. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, mostly from the famous Champoux Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, it was aged all in new oak and bottled unfined and unfiltered. It offers a captivating bouquet of black cherry liqueur and cassis-like fruit, Asian spice, coffee bean and lead pencil shavings to go with a full-bodied, ripe, seamless and hedonistic style on the palate. One of the more approachable, opulent examples of this cuvee, it has no hard edges, plenty of tannin and a massive, heady finish. Give it 2-4 years in the cellar and enjoy bottles through 2032.” JD
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Limited stock!
Vinopolnote:The brand-spankin’-newest release from Mr. John Paul is just what to expect – and to hope for! Great spice and length – very layered, with goji berry and pomegranate fruit leading into mineral-drenched, long finish. …GOOD JUICE!
Clos Cibonne
Provence Unlike Elsewhere
André Roux purchased the Clos Cibonne vineyards from Jean Baptiste de Cibon, captain of the royal marines of Louis XVI, in 1930. Throughout the ensuing years, he developed traditions of winemaking which continue to this day – this included aging the wine in old foudres and a particular focus on Tibouren. This is a native grape which, as Roux believed, was perfectly suited to Provence. Light-bodied, structured, and full of playful spice, the varietal is a lovely and elegant foil to Mourvedre – so much so that Roux uprooted all of the latter’s rootstocks in favor of Tibouren. The A.O.C. even granted special permission for the grape name to be present on the estate’s labels.The estate had some troubles in the 1980’s, at which point Bridget Roux, André’s granddaughter, came to the helm. She and her husband modernized the facilities while remaining true to the legacy of Clos Cibonne. Their efforts revitalized the estates and maintained its standing as one of the 18 Cru Classés in Côtes de Provence.
Across 15 hectares, the coastal estate is situated in sea-facing bowl which is bordered by gentle hill slopes. Cool winds filter through the topography, with perfect sun exposure and ideal conditions for grape maturation. All of the wines are fermented in stainless steel before aging under ‘fleurette’ (a thin veil of yeast) in 100-year-old, 500 liter foudres.
Deserving particular note are the estate’s celebrated rosés. Aging under flor, they are marked with a roundness and complexity which is unlike anything we’ve ever tasted. These are very well-equipped for the cellar, though the reader ought not be dissuaded from drinking to their heart’s content!
Clos Cibonne Wines Arriving Friday, March 18th
Clos Cibonne Tibouren ‘Cuvee Tradition Rose,’ Cotes de Provence 2014 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Winery note “This cuvee is mainly made with Tibouren. After 12 to 18 months spent in hundred-year-old casks, the wine is bottled. It has a salmon-orange color. The nose is enchanting, warm and matures into smooth spicy aromas. Winy, mellow, surprisingly mineral on the palate. 90% Tibouren, 10% Grenache.”
Clos Cibonne Tibouren ‘Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes Rose,’ Cotes de Provence 2014 750ML ($37.95) $30.90 pre-arrival special
Winery note “The vineyard’s oldest vines give its luminous color to this rose. Wide range of quince, grilled walnut and spicy aromas. Full-bodied, persistent and fresh on the palate. 90% Tibouren, 10% Grenache.”
Clos Cibonne ‘Cuvee Speciale Tibouren Rouge,’ Cotes du Provence 2014 750ML ($31.95) $26 pre-arrival special
Winery note “This relatively new cuvee, its first vintage dating from 2009, is the result of the obstinacy of a friend and client of the Tibouren since the 1970s. Bright ruby-red color, generous on the nose with red berry and spicy aromas, silky, elegant and elicate. Delicious with a veal roast and chanterelles. 90% Tibouren, 10% Grenache.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Staff Pick
I can’t make up my mind this week, and Portland’s dance between rain-sun-rain – along with just-bloomed cherry blossoms and that extra hour of sunlight – have me uncertain whether white or red wine gets my weekly endorsement. So, both. – Tyler
Chateau de Fosse-Seche Saumur Blanc Arcane, Loire 2012 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 13 bottles available
Case-12 Chateau de Fosse-Seche Saumur Blanc Arcane, Loire 2012 750ML ($379.95) $333 special, 1 case available
This was a surprise… Perfect balance, with a great honey-brioche-elderflower-peach quartet which gets all the notes right. The finish has all the energy of a band giving it’s all for the last song of the night. For Chenin with personality and depth, look no further.
Wine Advocate 93 points “Yields of the 2012 Saumur Arcane were remarkable low (10-15 hectoliters per hectare), but finally gave a full-bodied, firmly structured wine with a powerful length. Golden yellow in color. Rich, ripe and deep on the nose, very profound and complex, but also superbly pure and stony in its core showing cooked quinces and honey. This is a very mineral, straightforward and stimulating wine of great purity, a serious expression of the unique terroir of Fosse-Sèche. Drink now and until 2030+.” SR
Philippe Pacalet Les Perrieres, Beaune Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 11 bottles available
My jaw basically dropped upon first tasting this wine. I don’t spend as much time with Burgundy as I should, perhaps, but still know when I’m onto something good. The 2010 Perrieres is layered and suave in all the right ways. This one’s recipe includes goji berries with some cherry-tinged roundness, a touch of mint and sage, and a hint of bramble. The finish is unceasing, and I truly don’t know whether you’re better off drinking all of it you can get your hands on ASAP or monitoring its progress through cellaring. Just do what feels right with this guy.
The next best price is $97.95
Philippe Pacalet Pommard 2010 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 10 bottles available
Grapelive 95 points “I may have mentioned Pacalet a few times, may even have reviewed his wines a few times, maybe this wine too, but WOW this beautiful 2010 Pommand is now stunning and has really blossomed into a fantastic Pinot Noir and merits extra attention now. Philippe Pacalet is one of the new darlings of the natural wine movement and certainly a rising star in Burgundy, his careful artisan technique and minimalist winemaking is turning more than a few heads, these wines are clear, bright, fresh and transparent, not in the least bit old school barnyard funky, and while people argue the whole gambit of ideas about so called natural wine, Pacalet is quietly crafting elegant and glorious Burgundy. I tasted some of his first imported efforts and was very impressed, especially with his Chambolle-Musigny, and when recently sampled his whites I was blown away, his Meursault and Puligny wines are off the charts, but a few days ago I got a chance to taste this Pommard and I can tell you it was a magic moment, this is a delicate and gorgeous red Burgundy that seduces and charms in a way that only a Cote d’ Or can, in majestic fashion and spiritually emotional in experience. The nose is perfumed with fresh rose petals, red tea, hints of pepper, violets and raspberry leading to a dreamy palate of silky cherry, plum and currant fruits with a lift of acidity, a gentle spine of refined tannin, a touch of oak, mineral and earth adding mystery and a long finish that lingers with hints of red peach, cinnamon stick, kirsch, lavender essence and truffle. This soulful effort is a medium bodied Pinot Noir that reveals everything with a light touch, but has sultry powers that will drive you crazy for more, sometimes a wonderful Burgundy can touch your soul, this is that kind of wine, drink from 2014 to 2020.”
The next best price is $84.99
Also newly reviewed by Grapelive:
Remelluri ‘Lindes de Remelluri Vinedos de Labastida’, Rioja DOCa 2010 750ML ($34.95) $29 special, 14 bottles available
Grapelive 94 points “Telmo Rodriguez, one of Spain’s great winemakers, has turned around his family estate Remelluri in Rioja and he is making some of his finest wines of his prolific career, especially these secondary Remelluri offering from old vine purchased fruit, under the Lindes de Remelluri label. These two vineyard select wines, coming from vineyards that used to go into the Remelluri reserva are now separated into two new single vineyard bottling, and while both are excellent, it is the Labastida that really stands out for me, it comes from a mainly Tempranillo site in Rioja Alavesa where there is higher elevation and unique chalky soils, a very different terroir and character than La Rioja Alta, and it shows in it’s flavors. Telmo, having made wine at Jean-Louis Chave in Hermitage and in Bordeaux, has accomplished himself as a champion of place over varietal and employes artisan craftsmanship in the cellar, his wines hardly ever show oak or alcohol, they always show purity and a sense of place, these are magnificent expressions of Rioja, they are completely distinct and soulful wines that are seriously seductive and charming with style and substance in spades. The 2010 vintage Lindes de Remelluri is 90% Tempranillo and the rest a mix of Garnacha and Graciano, it is a field blend from extremely old vines that provide tiny yields of amazing complex and deep fruit, this 2010 Labastida is impressive, intense and tannic with a garnet/black hue along with a heady perfume and richly textured palate, this is dramatic stuff and will be long aging wine. The nose shows violets, dried flowers and sweet herbs with hints of cedar and blackberry leading to a firm and powerful palate of black cherry, damson plum, blueberry and mixed red and black berry fruits with loam and mineral that remind me of left bank Bordeaux, spice and hints of wild strawberry. There is a tangy currant running throughout and lingering liqueur cassis feel in the same vein, and some lavender, licorice and earthiness rounding out the complexity in this dense and layered Rioja. This is captivating and fantastic wine, this is not to be missed and certainly is another feather in Telmo’s cap, drink this gorgeous beauty over the next two decades, no question a great cellar candidate, this is an affordable collector’s item, best from 2018 to 2035.”
Bitouzet-PrieurArriving This Friday
Bitouzet Prieur Bourgogne Blanc 2014 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Importer note: The parcel for this cuvée is the lieu-dit in Meursault known as “Les Herbeaux”, in the northern quadrant of Meursault just underneath the 1er Cru “Les Malpoiriers”. Bitouzet exploits 0.71 hectares and the vines were planted in 1953 with a section recently replanted in 2010 which is not yet in production. Puligny Montrachet “Les Levrons”: Bitouzet has a splendid little parcel on the northern tier of Puligny situated just beneath the fine 1er Cru “Les Referts”; this little gem is quite fine, direct in its approach, firmly mineral, with great length and persistence on the palate; a classic Puligny. Their holdings extend over 0.60 hectare: half of the surface is in vines planted in 1955; the other half was replanted in 2000.
The average price is $26
Importer note: The Bitouzets frequently sell this wine off to negociants but, from time-to-time, we have the opportunity to purchase a couple of barrels. This mix of gamay and pinot noir is sourced from vines within Volnay that were planted in 1953 and 1974.
Domaine Bitouzet Prieur Volnay 2013 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Domaine Bitouzet Prieur Volnay 2013 375ML ($27.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Importer’s note: In their home village, the Bitouzets own 2.2 hectares of vines at the village level. The vines, planted at various stages (1961, 1987, 2003) are principally found in the two neighboring sites of “Ez Echards” and “Les Aussy” which both sit immediately underneath the 1er Cru “Ronceret”. This Volnay has excellent ruby-red color; it is fresh, fruity with exuberant red berry fruit that spreads on the palate; and, it is lightly tannic in the finish to let one know this is from Volnay.
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2012 1.5L ($179.95) $149 pre-arrival special
Importer’ note: “This cuvée is one of the gems of the domaine, a complete expression of this vineyard’s special character as Bitouzet’s holdings fall within two separate sites: one from the high part (“du Haut”) and another from the lower section (“du Bas”). The two parcels are vinified separately and then blended together before bottling to create the whole. The lower section provides a stony minerality and an almost tannic expression; the upper section yields explosive aromatics as well as a round, buttery mouthfeel. The two parcels make up a total of 0.55 hectare; the vines were planted in 1944 and another section in 1987. The soil is a pebbly limestone with sand and loam consistency. Two barrels are reserved for the US market and, at our request, magnums and occasionally double magnums are prepared.”
The next best price is $86.99
Bitouzet Prieur Meursault Perrieres 2012 1.5L ($199.95) $179 pre-arrival special
Importer note: Perhaps the consistently greatest white wine from the Bitouzet-Prieur domaine, the “Perrieres” is firmly mineral, quite spicy and more elegant than the Charmes; a great wine of class and breed with remarkable density and a wine of extraordinary potential. Two barrels are reserved for the US market; magnums are always drawn for our use and double magnums are also prepared on occasion. The Bitouzets own 0.28 hectares of vines here in the part of the vineyard known as “Perrieres Dessous” and their vines were planted in 1983.
Antonio Galloni 92-94 points “The 2012 Volnay Caillerets is the most impressive of these 2012s from Francois Bitouzet. Here the flavors are deep, layered and beautifully resonant from start to finish. Plum, smoke, black cherry, licorice and spices wrap around the palate as this fleshy, deep Volnay shows off its pure class and pedigree. The finish is long, generous and inviting, but the 2012 is a wine for the cellar. Patience will be rewarded. In 2012 there is just one barrel of the Caillerets instead of the customary three.”
The next best price is $160
Antonio Galloni 92-94 points “The estate’s 2012 Volnay Clos des Chênes is wonderfully complete. A wine that plays across all dimensions, the 2012 offers expressive aromatics, deep fruit and plenty of underlying structure. The style is dark, powerful and brooding, with perhaps a bit less finesse than the Caillerets and Taillepieds, but a level of explosiveness that is captivating. This was the last parcel to be harvested in 2012.”
Antonio Galloni 91-93 points “The 2012 Volnay Mitans stands out for its total sense of refinement. Sweet floral notes meld into bright red cherries, spices, mint and anise. The 2012 is fragrant and nicely lifted throughout, with impeccable balance and tons of class. Sweet, ripe tannins support the long, understated finish. This is a terrific showing for Mitans.” AG
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Pitures, Volnay Premier Cru 2012 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 91-93 points “The estate’s 2012 Volnay Pitures is the most massively tannic of these wines. Dark, rich and powerful, the 2012 is laced with black cherries, new leather, cloves and menthol, all supported by huge, incisive tannins. I would give the tannins a few years to soften, but the Pitures is likely to remain intense and even a bit rustic, especially in comparison to the other 2012s here.”
The next best price is $69.94
Bitouzet Prieur Volnay Les Taillepieds 2012 1.5L ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 91-93+ points “A layered, totally exquisite wine, the 2012 Volnay Taillepieds impresses for its balance above all else. The aromas and flavors are beautifully detailed and nuanced in a Taillepieds that is all about crystalline purity. This tasting catches the 2012 in a slightly raw, unpolished state, but nothing a little time in bottle won’t take care of.”
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Isole e OlenaA Tale of Two Sites
Isole e Olena came to life in the 1950’s when two adjoining estates, ‘Isole’ and ‘Olena’ merged when purchased by the De Marchi family. The De Marchi’s had specific plans for their site and took the effort to plant specialized vineyards, while making major expansions in the cellar. Now in its fourth generation, Paola De Marchi has been the proprietor since 1976 of the now well established winery located just north of the village of Castellina, in the Chianti Classico region of Tuscany.Isole e Olena is considered a pioneer as far as bringing Bordeaux varieties to the historical region, as well as focusing on different whites, used to make beautiful Vin Santo in which Paola prides himself in and also excels. The history of the estate dates back to centuries ago, with the actual village of Olena originating as far back as the 12th Century. Its 45 hectares (about 111 acres) of vineyards are situated between 350-450 meters above sea level, and are planted primarily on galestro soil. Paola’s serious dedication and determination in changing both the name and quality of this estate has been extremely successful, and he has made the winery into what Galloni calls ‘a powerhouse’ in Tuscany.
Isole e Olena’s Cepparello is Paolo’s flagship wine that was introduced in 1980, a 100% Sangiovese wine which set the standard for the pure Sangiovese movement, prior to a change in DOC regulations that now allows for a single varietal Sangiovese. Cepparello is aged in French oak barrels, and has really developed finesse it rarely possessed in the original bottlings, due to more meticulous fermentation management in the cellar and the usage of a higher quality oak since 1993. When speaking of quality over the years it really all comes down to the dirt though, and the increasing age of the vineyards that create greater complexities with strong mineral components and intense flavor characteristics. Cepparello comes from the top selection of the estate’s best fruit from their vineyards in Barberino Val d’Elsa, located in the Northern part of Chianti Classico. It is a style that possesses ‘finesse over power’ and has the aging capability of over 20+ years.
Isole e Olena Wines Available Here Now:
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2013 Chianti Classico brings together the fresh aromatics of a cool year along with lovely mid-palate pliancy. The flavors are bright, high-toned and decidedly leaning towards the red-fruit end of the spectrum. Crushed flowers, herbs and anise grace the soft, aromatic finish. The overall impression is of lovely mid-palate juiciness, even if the technical stats suggest a lighter-bodied wine. That is why wine can never be measured by numbers alone.”
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2005 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special, 2 magnums available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2005 Cepparello is striking. It possesses stunning depth and a darker profile of fruit than is typical. The 2005 was quite compact when first released, but what a difference a few years in bottle make. Today the 2005 has begun to blossom into a big, dramatic wine for the year. As was the case throughout most of Chianti Classico, 2005 was shaping up to be a great year until the rains arrived just before harvest. This is a fabulous effort on its own, but especially notable for the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.”
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2011 750ML ($89.95) $55 special (was $66), 36+ bottles available
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2011 1.5L ($159.95) $119 special (was $133), 3 magnums available
Case-6 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2011 750ML ($499.95) Was $376, Now $299, 2 six-packs available (that’s only $49.83/bottle!)
James Suckling 95 points “Aromas of currant, bark and orange peel. Nutmeg powder. Full body and chewy tannins. Savory, with balsamic and nuts. I love the juicy, decadent character to this. Drink or hold.” JS
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “Isole e Olena’s 2011 Cepparello is remarkably silky, polished and refined, especially considering the challenges of the vintage. Dark red stone fruits, wild flowers, menthol and sweet spices all meld together gracefully in the glass. Voluptuous and racy but also an impeccably balanced wine with phenomenal length and a super-expressive finish. The 2011 will offer a wide window of drinking pleasure pretty much upon release. Drink: 2017-2026.” AG
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2012 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 36+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2012 Cepparello is magnificent. Radiant, pliant and super-expressive, the 2012 offers magnificent intensity, with silky tannins wrapped around a core of rich, dark-toned fruit. The intensity of the fruit suggests a warm vintage, but the structure is more medium in body and typical of a cooler year. Today, the 2012 gives the impression it will drink well pretty much upon release, but history has taught me Cepparello often shuts down in bottle. Either way, the 2012 is superb.” AG
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Bruna Grimaldi
Wine from the Famiglia
Bruna Grimaldi’s uncle Giacomo first began selling grapes from his vineyard land in 1957. Since 1960, his brother and then his niece (Bruna) have produced and bottled estate wine from their vineyards. Today, the estate shares Bruna’s name. She co-owns and operates it with her husband, Granco Fiorino with assistance from agronomist Giampiero Romana. She took over ownership of the estate in 1990 and inherited the Badarina vineyard in the Serralunga from her mother’s side. Since that time, they have purchased a parcel of the Bricco Ambrogio vineyard in Serralunga.Since they first began bottling their own wine, the family’s main focus has been to preserve the natural characteristics of the grapes. Bruna uses vineyard management techniques such as careful green harvests and monitoring of brix, acidity and phenolic ripeness to concentration aromas and flavors in her wines. The resulting wines are fermented with natural yeasts in stainless steel, aged in large wooden barrels and tonneaux without new oak, and are bottle aged for 8-10 months before release.Today, the Bruna Grimaldi estate is composed of 25 acres of vineyard land in Eastern and Northeastern sub-regions of Barolo: Grinzane Cavour, Diano d’Alba, Roddi and Serralunga. They produce a single vineyard wine and a Riserva from the Badarina vineyard in the Southeast of the Serralunga sub-region. The soil is calcareous. It was planted with vines between 1985 and 1999 and their first harvest was in 1999. The vineyard results in robust, full bodied wines with lush perfumes. The single vineyard bottling is aged for 24-30 months in puncheons and the Riserva for 42 months in tonneaux and barrels. These wines are robust and age well. The Camilla is produced from their older vines in the Grinzane Cavour. This sees 24-30 months of aging in tonneaux. This wine has more delicate aromatics with a rich texture.
Bruna Grimaldi Wines Available Here Now:
Bruna Grimaldi Badarina Vigna Regnola, Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($59.95) $38 special, 36+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 92+ points “this 1.5-hectare plot, planted on shallow white soil at a high altitude of 420 meters in Serralunga, is the estate’s “original” vineyard, where Bruna Grimaldi’s grandfather was born; the only Barolo for which Grimaldi uses cappello sommerso for extraction): Medium-deep red. Complex aromas of raspberry, truffle, smoke and underbrush. Large-scaled, concentrated and rich, offering powerful, lightly medicinal flavors of raspberry and strawberry complicated by licorice and menthol. This very young wine finishes dry and broad, with serious granular tannins calling for extended aging. The Badarina spends a full 36 months in oak and is released a year later than the other Barolos of its vintage. (Grimaldi kept a bit of this fruit in both 2010 and 2009 to make a reserve bottling, but the 2009 will not be released until 2015.)” ST
Bruna Grimaldi Camilla, Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($39.95) $31.90 special, 36+ bottles available
James Suckling 92 points “Aromas of minerals, walnut shells and dark fruits follow through to a full body. Fine tannins and a succulent finish. Drink or hold. Much better than 2010.”
Bruna Grimaldi Briccola Nebbiolo d’Alba, Piedmont 2013 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 21 bottles available
Winery note: The younger brother of Barolo, with a delicate perfume and a round taste, with robust tannins in the first years, which become gentler with ageing. It is produced from the grapes cultivated in Diano d’Alba; the vines were planted in 1940, and its name is Nebbiolo d’Alba Briccola. Calcareous soils at 1,000 feet above sea level; wines are aged in tonneau for 12-15 months and then held in bottle for 6 months.
Champagne in Focus:
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger
Explore these and other producers from the Grand Cru below:
Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale ‘Les Chetillons’ Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2007 750ML ($149.95) $129 special, 20 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “What a pleasure it is to taste the 2007 Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons. An absolutely impeccable Champagne, the 2007 is gorgeous today. Crushed flowers, sage, almonds, lemon peel and ripe, juicy pears inform the supple, resonant finish. In 2007, the Chétillons is a model of grace and finesse. This is the first vintage Rodolphe Péters made from start to finish, and he nailed it.” AG
Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale ‘Les Chetillons’ Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2009 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 13 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The flagship 2009 Brut Les Chétillons looks like it will reward readers with a long and broad drinking window of pure pleasure. The warmth of the vintage has given the 2009 Chétillons a bit more mid-palate richness and sweetness than is typical, yet there is plenty of Mesnil drive and precision in the glass. Dense, powerful and explosive, the 2009 hits all the right notes. Best of all, it won’t need years in bottle to come together. Dosage is 4.7 grams/liter. Disgorged: February 2015.”
Pierre Peter Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, L’Esprit de 2009 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 4 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The L’Esprit de 2009 is striking. The wine’s body, texture and breadth are all suggestive of a warm, ripe year, there is also plenty of freshness to keep things in balance. Apricot pit, smoke, dried flowers, orange peel, chamomile and honey add nuance through to the huge, resonant finish. This is a terrific showing from the 2009.” AG
Pierre Peters Cuvee Rosé for Albane Brut NV 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 10 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points: “The NV Brut Rosé per Albane is drop-dead gorgeous. Perfumed, ethereal and beguiling, the Albane is both incredibly delicate and full of flavor. Sweet floral notes, red berries, mint and crushed rocks linger on the bright, crystalline finish. The long, brilliant finish leaves a lasting impression. The Albane is 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Meunier, an unusual combination.” AG
Terry Theise note “Another wine that can (should?) be kept; we tasted a 2007 just as a foil to this new guy, and that ’07 was nearly ready. This’12 cuvée showed roasty aromas, rose hips and pulled pork; the palate is slinky and wonderfully serpentine for all its rhubarb richness, with a torn-silk texture. It’s virtually sui generis among Champagne rosés, and far from the prevailing Côte des Blancs style of Blanc de Blancs with a little pink color and a taste of strawberries.”
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special, 14 magnums available
Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs 3L ($499.95) $399 special, 3 jeroboams available
Wine Spectator 91 points “Fresh and floral, with dogwood and spring blossom accents, this mouthwatering blanc de blancs offers a lively bead, carrying flavors of white cherry, fresh ginger, slivered almond and yellow plum. Disgorged February 2015. Drink now through 2018. 900 cases imported.” WS
Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 7 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Very pale greenish-silver color. Extremely fine, precise aromas of talc, mint and fresh herbs. Creamy and round but utterly vibrant; this expands to fill the mouth yet communicates an impression of weightlessness. A blanc de blancs of great delicacy. Finishes very long, youthful and bright.”ST
Guy Charlemagne Mesnillesime Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2004 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “Firm and well-knit, with a subtle streak of minerality underscoring flavors of crunchy white peach, fresh ginger and tangy currant, showing hints of pastry and spice. Clean and racy. Drink now through 2023.” WS
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Guy Charlemagne Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru Reserve Brut NV 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special, 4 magnums available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “(made with fruit from the Cote de Blancs, mostly from Mesnil-sur-Oger; LRGC11): Light yellow. Vibrant lemon, orange zest, jasmine and mineral scents are complemented by deeper notes of anise and buttered toast. Spreads out nicely on the palate, offering lively citrus and orchard fruit flavors and a touch of bitter quinine. Closes smooth and long, with echoing minerality and a touch of bitter pear skin. There’s very good depth here, as well as verve.” ST
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Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Light yellow. Intensely perfumed aromas of poached pear, tangerine, candied fig and white flowers, with an piquant spicy element adding vivacity. Smooth, sweet and expansive on the palate, offering powerful orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of smokiness. The broad finish features excellent clarity and building spiciness.” JRMichel Turgy Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut 2005 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 22 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Vivid yellow. Musky pear, yellow apple and anise scents are complemented by hints of chamomile and smoky minerals. Fleshy and focused on the palate, offering pliant orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of anise. A subtle underpinning of minerality carries through a long, sappy finish that leaves gingery spice and floral notes behind.” JR
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Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Light yellow. Lively aromas of orange zest, pear and nectarine, with suave mineral and floral qualities adding complexity. Racy and precise on the palate, offering vivid citrus and orchard fruit flavors braced by chalky minerals and a hint of white pepper. Becomes deeper toward the finish, with the mineral element gaining strength and adding cut to a lingering note of bitter pear skin.” JR
J. L. Vergnon Eloquence Grand Cru Extra Brut NV 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 7 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Pale yellow. Spicy orange, melon and pear aromas show very good energy and clarity, with a chalky nuance emerging with air. Fleshy and seamless on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering vivid honeydew, chamomile and tangerine flavors deepened by a building smoky note. Finishes nervy and very long, leaving a suave floral quality behind.” JR
Wine Spectator 91 points “Filigreed in texture, this is firm and balanced in structure, offering a lovely mix of savory toasted almond and fleur de sel details, with ripe apricot, floral, lemon zest and pastry cream notes. Well-knit and stylish. Drink now through 2020.” WSJ.L. Vergnon Expression Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut Millesime 2006 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 23 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Vivid yellow. Mineral-driven pear skin, jasmine and anise scents are given depth and power by notes of yellow plum and buttered toast. The palate offers intense, deeply concentrated citrus and orchard fruit flavors, with suggestions of brioche and orange pith gaining strength with air. The mineral quality adds definition to the finish, which clings with excellent persistence and a lingering floral quality.” ST
“i shall drink no wine before it’s time!
…okay, it’s time.”
– groucho marx