Matrot’s Charming and Value-Driven Burgundy
Champagne in Spring: Warming Weather=Bubbly Fun
Top Rated ’16 Beaujolais Featuring Foillard, Lapierre and Chignard
Top Betz: New Releases from the Washington Standard-Bearer
Wines from Olga Raffault’s Library
Monumental+Traditional / The 2015 Grand Cru Chablis of Vocoret
Burgundy of Charm and Value
There’s an old axiom that you can’t trust a red-wine maker to make good white wines, but producers that are known for whites often make great reds. That’s certainly true of Matrot, the venerable producer of Meursault. Their whites are great and well known, but somehow the reds the family produces from the Cote de Beaune are sleepers—undervalued but delicious.
Stylistically, the wines are charmers, pure and up front with their joy. They epitomize a drink-now style of the Cote de Beaune, with fresh fruit and beautiful aromatics. The fruit is buttressed by an intriguing minerality that gives the wine tension and energy. They’ll develop with age, sure, but for a Burg you can drink with pleasure young, it’s tough to beat the wines from Matrot.
Added to that youthful charm is perhaps the other best attribute of these wines—pricing. At a time when even humble producers have been taking off in pricing, Matrot, with all of their accolades, have kept prices reasonable. These are among the best values in the Cote d’Or—wines that we’d say you should buy in bulk, but unfortunately we don’t have any of them in bulk (it’s Burgundy—quantities are small [what did you expect]). We do have a bunch of different bottlings, though, so you should stock up on everything you can.
In Stock Now:
Domaine Matrot La Piece Sous Le Bois, Blagny Premier Cru 2014 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Burghound 91 points “The impressively complex violet and pungently earth-infused aromas are more elegant if ever-so-slightly less ripe. The seductively textured middle weight flavors possess plenty of structure-buffering dry extract that imparts a sappy mouth feel to the firm, dusty and strikingly persistent mineral-driven finish that evidences a mild touch of austerity. While qualitatively similar to the Santenots the underlying character is completely different as this is more focused and less powerful while offering much more refinement.”
Burghound 91 points “Here the wood treatment is no longer subtle as the menthol character fights somewhat with the clear expression of the otherwise fresh, pretty and complex mix of plum, violet, earth and discreet spice scents. There is much better mid-palate concentration to the powerful and quite serious middle weight flavors that exude a fine bead of minerality onto the mouth coating and, somewhat curiously for Santenots, notably rustic finale. This doesn’t offer its usual level of refinement but it certainly doesn’t lack for underlying material.”
Burghound 89 points “A subtle application of wood serves as an unobtrusive backdrop for the mix of upper and lower register aromas of both red and dark cherry, raspberry, earth and soft floral nuances. There is solid volume and plenty of punch to the lightly mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that possess a clean, cool and restrained mouth feel, all wrapped in a saline, balanced and lingering finish. While this could be enjoyed now, a few short years of bottle age should be beneficial.”
Burghound 88 points “Once again the nose is composed of distinctly cool yet ripe fruit that combines notes of both red and blue pinot fruit with plenty of earth and floral nuances. There is good detail and verve to the delicious and lightly mineral-laden flavors that possess an attractive velvety texture while delivering solid depth and length on the ever-so-mildly austere finale.”
Burghound “An exuberantly fresh and fruity nose speaks of various red berries along with a hint of earth. There is both good vibrancy and detail to the delicious, forward and easy-going flavors that offer acceptable length but not much depth on the finish that is less rustic than usual.”
Domaine Matrot Monthelie, Cote de Beaune 2011 750ML ($49.95) $29 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Burghound – “This is less refined but a bit more complex with an earthy and mildly rustic nose of dark berries and pungent earth aromas. The same touch of rusticity can be found on the delicious, round and already approachable medium-bodied flavors that possess good depth and reasonably good length. This should drink well almost immediately yet reward a few years of cellar time as well.”
Burghound 89 points “This is much, much more elegant with cool and high-toned aromas of very fresh raspberry and cherry. There is a real sense of energy to the detailed and mineral-inflected flavors that possess fine delineation before terminating in a balanced, delicious and lingering finish. This is a classic En Créots of finesse.” BH
Burghound 89 points “This is markedly cooler and more elegant with its pretty nose of high-toned pomegranate, cherry and cranberry scents. There is a lovely minerality to the racy, intense and beautifully delineated lighter weight though not dilute flavors that possess an attractive saline character on the clean, polished and dry-in-the-best-sense finale. This refined effort could easily be enjoyed young.”
Burghound 89 points “This is both riper and more elegant with a lovely and beautifully layered blend of red currant, plum, spice and earth. There is good mid-palate density to the suave, even opulent flavors that exude a fine minerality on the equally spicy and persistent finish. While the Matrot style is for reds that will be agreeable when they’re young, this will also be capable of rewarding 3 to 5 years of cellar time.”BH
“A brooding and more complex if much less elegant nose than usual is comprised of lightly spiced dark berry fruit liqueur aromas. There is notably more volume to the velvety, intense and more obviously mineral-inflected flavors that exhibit a very mild hint of bitterness on the short and slightly clipped finish. The bitterness will very likely dissipate but that won’t help the persistence. I would be inclined to drink this young for its fruit.”—Burghound
Perfect for Drinking In Quantity
There are a lot of occasions to drink Champagne in the spring. Easter, Passover, weddings, graduations and the return of the sun are all reasons for the popping of corks. We increase our consumption of bubbly as the weather warms up and a bottle on the patio seems more and more like a great idea. We have a bunch of great bottles of Champagne at even better prices, so you can afford to go for the good stuff for your party (or just for yourself).
R.H. Coutier Grand Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 14+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 R.H. Coutier Grand Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($499.95) $379 special (that’s only $31.58/bottle!)
Importer note “Produced entirely from Grand Cru grapes from the village of Ambonnay, this stunning Brut Tradition shows rich, leesy fruit obtained through extended bottle aging prior to disgorging. Quite vinous in texture, it is full and long with crisp apple fruit notes on the finish and showing some toasty notes in the nose. Very low dosage levels allow the great Ambonnay fruit to shine.”
Lot H414T1G7; Disgorged 07/2017; 25% Chardonnay/75% Pinot Noir
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Clouet’s 2008 Brut Millesime shows quite a bit more tension and focus than the 2007, hardly a surprise given then personality of the vintage. Bright, saline notes frame expressive red fruits, flowers and sweet spices. The 2008 Brut is a gorgeous wine with plenty of appeal today, but it will also develop beautifully in bottle. Stylistically it is less overt than the 2007 but places more emphasis on length. Brut Millesime is mostly Pinot, with 30-40% Chardonnay.” AG
Andre Clouet Silver Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, Champagne NV 750ML ($47.95) Was $33, Now $29 Clearance Price
March Clearance Sale Wine
100% Grand Cru, 100% Pinot Noir, no dosage
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The NV Brut Nature Silver is naturally a very focused, driven wine given the no-dosage style. This shows wonderful nuance and depth all the way through to the long finish, with bright aromas and flavors but less of the toastiness than some of the house’s other wines. The mousse and finish are both utterly impeccable in their elegance.” AG
Wine Spectator 91 points “[Reviewed 2017] A snappy Champagne, well-cut and lightly chalky, with juicy pear, white raspberry, apple blossom and lemon zest flavors. A tang of salinity shows on the finish. Drink now through 2021. 25 cases imported.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 90 points “(85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay; no dosage): Light gold. Pungent aromas of ripe pear, white peach and melon, with a suave floral element coming up with aeration. Intense orchard and pit fruit flavors are underscored by smoky mineral and gingery spice notes that gain strength with aeration. Finishes tight, dry and long, with firm grip and repeating spiciness.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “(made from a blend of 20 vintages, with 1991 as its base; roughly 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay; 6 g/l dosage): Pale yellow. A wild, assertively perfumed bouquet displays scents of mineral-accented poached pear, honey, toasted nuts and smoky lees, with a suave floral element building in the glass. Stains the palate with ripe orchard and pit fruit flavors, along with suggestions of buttered toast, marzipan and bitter lemon pith. Shows excellent clarity and power on the finish, which clings with strong fruity persistence. This complex, concentrated Champagne would be fantastic with aged or blue cheeses.”
Distributor note “Grower-Producers, the Nicaise family have been making champagne for 4 generations from their 9 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards, all in Hautvillers, but it is only very recently that the quality took a big jump up after the arrival at the domaine in 2007 of the new generation represented by Laure Nicaise-Préaux and her husband, then 25 year old Clement Préaux. Clémént apprenticed at Anselme Selosse and work at the co-op of Mailly before becoming part of the Louis Nicaise family. As his father-in-law has given him more control, Clémént has reduced the dosages on the wines and pushed the quality upwards.”
From Foillard, Lapierre and Chignard
Arriving this Spring
The new reviews in Vinous for the 2016 Beaujolais vintage have confirmed what we already knew—it’s a great, classic year. Unlike the blockbuster 2015’s, the ‘16’s are very excellent versions of classically proportioned Beaujolais (our favorite kind of vintage). We’ve finally received our Foillard allocation, plus an allocation of Lapierre’s “Camille” bottling and Chignard’s magical Fleuries. Even though they won’t arrive for a few weeks, we wanted to offer them now, so you can secure some before they hit store shelves. Quantitites are limited and the offer is first-come, first-served.
Arriving Friday:
Domaine Chignard Fleurie Les Moriers, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Lurid ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red/blue fruits, incense and candied flowers, with a smoky mineral overtone that gains power with air. Offers palate-staining black raspberry and boysenberry flavors, along with suggestions of allspice and candied licorice. Concentrated yet lithe in style, showing excellent finishing clarity and a impressive mineral-driven persistence.”
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Bright violet. Potent, mineral-accented dark berry, licorice candy and floral aromas are complemented by a hint of allspice. Fleshy and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated black raspberry and violet pastille flavors underscored by an enlivening mineral nuance. Shows excellent clarity and lift on an impressively long, floral-dominated finish framed by smooth, harmonious tannins.”
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon Roche du Py ‘Cuvee Camille’, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($44.95) $38 pre-arrival special
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon Roche du Py ‘Cuvee Camille’, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($89.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Brilliant ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red fruits, Asian spices and minerals, along with an exotic touch of incense in the background. In a distinctly elegant style, offering appealingly sweet raspberry, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors that show very good depth as well as finesse. A spine of juicy acidity adds support and cut to an impressively long, floral-driven finish that’s shaped by silky, harmonious tannins.”
Arriving ETA May:
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($44.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($99.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Lurid ruby. An expansive, mineral-accented bouquet displays powerful red and dark berry, incense and potpourri qualities, and a Moroccan spice nuance adds urgency and lift. Bright, seamless and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining black raspberry, blueberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that slowly firm up with aeration. Shows superb depth and clarity, with nary a rough edge to be found. Closes supple, sweet and insanely long, leaving a sexy floral note behind.”
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 93 points “Wonderful aromas of dark cherry, citrus and hints of banana from the whole berry fermentation. Medium to full body, light tannins yet shows grip and minerality from the combination of bright acidity and slate soils. A beautiful encore from the excellent 2015. Made from organically grown grapes. Drink now.”
New Releases from the Washington Benchmark
Arriving March 30th:
Betz Family Winery Clos de Betz, Columbia Valley 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “Possessing even more Merlot than the 2014, the 2015 Clos de Betz is 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot brought up in a mix of barrels. Its chocolatey plum, tobacco leaf, licorice and damp earth aromatics give way to a medium to full-bodied, polished, pretty style on the palate that shines for its elegance and freshness. One of the reference-point estates in Washington is unquestionably Betz Family Winery. Bob Betz still takes a leading role, but the day to day winemaking is more and more being taken up by Louis Skinner, who’s taken up the helm brilliantly. In 2015, the estate made use of an optical sorter to eliminate raisins, and the wines show more freshness and focus, with a touch less voluptuousness and breadth. The 2014s were sensational across the board. Anyone interested in Washington State wines, or just high-quality wines for that matter, owe it to themselves to try these!”
Betz Family Winery Pere de Famille Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley 2015 750ML ($89.95) $75 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 93-96 points “Tasted as a barrel sample, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Pere de Famille is a head turner offering a detailed, mineral-laced, full-bodied, fresh and elegant style that doesn’t lack for oomph or structure. It has classic notes of cassis, smoked tobacco and graphite, with nicely integrated acidity and a great, great finish. The team commented that the use of the optical sorter really helped with this vintage.”
And don’t forget that we have these great wines from Betz already in stock now!
In Stock Now:
Betz Family Winery La Cote Rousse Syrah, Red Mountain 2015 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2015 Syrah la Cote Rousse is a blockbuster Syrah from Red Mountain that’s from the Ranch at the End of The Road and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. It’s a mix of four different clones and is brought up in barrel. This deep, inky, seriously black Syrah gives up Hermitage-like notes of scorched earth, charred meats, graphite and licorice. It’s a big, concentrated effort that’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring and keep through 2035.”
Betz Family Winery La Serenne Syrah, Yakima Valley 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 94 points “All from Dick Boushey’s vineyard in Yakima Valley, the 2015 Syrah La Serenne was also all destemmed and brought up in barrel. It’s a more elegant, complex and nuanced Syrah compared to the Cote Rousse and offers classic notes of blackberries, peppery herbs, lavender and spring flowers. Full-bodied, fresh and lively, drink it anytime over the coming 10-15 years.”
Chinon From the ‘70’s On
Domaine Olga Raffault remains one of the go-to wineries for old-school Chinon. Olga’s granddaughter, Sylvie (and her husband), currently run the estate, which is known for hand-harvested, traditionally made Chinon. The modern wines are fantastic—real reference points for what Cabernet Franc can achieve.
What makes the estate even more special, though, is their (dwindling) stock of library wines. These Chinons, made by Olga, are fantastic and can be real eye openers if you’ve never had Chinon with age. They’re also extremely inexpensive for their quality and age. The only real catch is the number of bottles we get, which dwindle every year—our guess is that the days of buying library Raffault are drawing to a close. We have our allocation arriving Friday and it will disappear quickly.
Arriving Friday:
Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses, Loire 1978 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Library release: an old school style Chinon. The fruit is handpicked, fermented in stainless steel and then aged in large neutral barrel. After about a year and half of aging it is bottled. Les Picasses is one of the best vineyards in Chinon, which also averages approximately 50 years of age.
The next best price is $120
Library release
Library release
Library release
The Monumental 2015’s Arrive Friday
Vocoret is an extremely traditional producer of Chablis—their wines are mineral and taut, with great energy and coiled power. In a vintage like 2015, there is an extra layer of opulence in the fruit which means the wines will be delicious young (not always a guarantee for old-school Chablis like Vocoret). The essential Chablis quality of the Grand Cru’s are there, but in a more majestic package. We were only able to secure a handful of cases of each, so if you’re interested, there’s no time like the present.
In addition, we’re taking the wines and adding them to our April sale—these are the first wines on sale for next month and one of the best deals in White Burgundy as a result.
Domaine Vocoret et Fils Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2015 750ML ($69.95) Was $59, Now $49 Clearance Price
Thanks for reading!