Saturday Vinopolpick – Four Producers

July 12, 2014
Top Producers – New Arrivals
Below we feature some top producers from their respective regions, including limited availability wines, cellared vintage wines, and some of the latest releases with exciting scores.  Enjoy!
Domaine William Fevre
Chablis is the northernmost sub-region in Burgundy located about 60 miles northwest of the Cote de Nuits.  Chablis is famous for its Kimmeridgian limestone soil.  This soil type is composed of chalky marl, limestone and clay with fossilized oyster shells dating to the Late Jurassic Period, over 150 million years ago.  The soil influences the vines not only through the minerals available to the roots but also by enabling sunlight to reflect off the ground and back to the leaves.  Wines produced from Kimmeridgian soil tend to have a flinty or steely characteristic. The terroir, cool climate and production methods result in wines with a racy acidity and distinctly flinty minerality.The Chablis AOC was established in 1938 and is composed of vineyards along the slopes surrounding the village of Chablis.  The Chablis Premier Cru designation is a quality subdivision of the Chablis AOC.  It is composed of 40 vineyard sites.  It is common for lesser-known sites to use a larger umbrella name associated with that Premier Cru.  There are seven named climats with the Chablis Grand Cru designation.  They are as follows, listed from north to south: Preuses, Bougros, Vaudesir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchot.  These sites are along a single slope of prime exposure facing southwest toward the river Serein that flows through the town of Chablis.  Wines from these sites have the longest ageing potential, of 10-15 years.
William Fevre first produced wine in 1959 from 7 hectares of vineyards in Chablis where his family has resided for over 250 years.  Joseph Henriot is the current owner of the domaine, and Didier Seguier of Bouchard Pere et Fils is the current winemaker.  The domaine has expanded to 51 hectares; 16 of which are Premier Crus and 15 of which are Grand Crus.  The vineyards are meticulously managed to produce limited yields.  Grapes are hand -picked into small crates before undergoing rigorous sorting.   Under the ownership of Fevre, the wines were aged in new oak.  Since the change in ownership in 1998, the wines are aged in old oak to retain the terroir and brisk minerality of the wines, without overpowering the delicate aromas.After an excessive vintage in 2003, Chablis in 2004 produced more focused, terroir-driven wines.  The weather was cool and damp throughout the growing season almost until the end.  It provided a challenge for growers who had to carefully tend their vineyards for signs of disease.  Throughout Burgundy, 2009 was a warm year, and its wines show intensely rich and ripe aromas.  In Chablis, the wines retained their classic elegance without showing excessive ripeness or sugar levels.  2010 was a superb vintage producing wines of great balance, excellent aromatics and finesse.  Flowering was interrupted due to poor weather, so yields were greatly reduced.  The resulting wines show precision and concentration paired with bright acidity.  Cellaring for a medium length of time will reward the patient buyer.Below we are offering a range of vintages from various Crus, many just recently arrived, each with unique and captivating features.

William Fevre Wines Available Now

William Fevre Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2004 ($179.95) $149 special, 24 bottles available
Burghound 95 points 
“Stylistically, this closely resembles the Valmur with its ultra elegant and pure aromas featuring white flowers, oyster shell and subtle spice notes that perfectly complement the round, powerful, rich and full-bodied flavors that coating the mouth and culminate in a saliva-inducing, incredibly intense finish that reminded me more than a little of a great Corton-Charlemagne. This just oozes minerality and the texture is minerally to the point of this resembling a block of stone. A great Les Clos”

**William Fevre Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2009 ($99.95) $89 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points 
“The 2009 Chablis Les Preuses is one of the most complete wines in this lineup. It possesses striking delineation of aromas and flavors, with nuance after nuance that emerge in the glass. It is another of the weightless wines here in that it is full of flavor but never heavy. Intense notes of minerality and smokiness grace the textured, sublime finish. This is a fabulous effort from Fevre and Didier Seguier. The Preuses is made from two parcels; the first an east-facing steep slope, the second a flatter parcel richer in clay with a southwest exposure. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.”
Burghound 95 points “Discreet touch of wood sets off fresh, cool and reserved aromas that are elegant, airy and citrusy before merging into rich, intense, pure and admirably precise medium-bodied flavors that possess really lovely balance and superb length. While there is also an almost invisible hint of wood on the backend, it should be absorbed quickly and overall, this is a spherical wine of perfect proportions and class.”

William Fevre Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru 2009 ($89.95) $79 special, 24 bottles available
Burghound 94 points
 “A mildly exotic and atypically reticent nose that is ripe yet airy showcases aromas of orange peel, peach and hints of roasted nut and iodine, before leading to rich, even opulent medium plus weight flavors that are delicious, round and strikingly persistent on the mouth coating and moderately austere finish. This has really come together since I last saw it and like the Bougros, this is quite a bit more refined than I’m used to seeing. An excellent example.”

William Fevre Vaudesir, Chablis Grand Cru 2010 ($89.95) $79 special, 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points
 “The 2010 Chablis Vaudesir is pure class and elegance. Layers of subtle, perfumed fruit caress the palate in this highly expressive Chablis. Everything is in the right place. The 2010 is all about subtlety. This is one of the more finessed Fevre 2010s. I love the balance of aromatics, fruit and acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

William Fevre Mont de Milieu, Chablis Premier Cru 2010 ($59.95) $44 special, 4 bottles available
Burghound 91-93 points
 “The differences in exposition between Mont de Milieu and Les Lys are really quite strikingly underscored as the fruit aromas here are so much riper and more obviously kissed by the sun, indeed to the point where there is an overt exoticism to the yellow orchard fruit aromas. Yet there is still excellent freshness and enough Chablis character to faithfully recall this wine’s origins. There is impressive volume and power to the medium weight plus flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that coats the mouth on the intense, complex and lasting finish. This succulent effort should develop well over the next 5 to 7 years.”

William Fevre Valmur, Chablis Grand Cru 2010 ($109.95) $89 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points 
“The 2010 Chablis Valmur captures the essence of the vintage. It represents everything Chablis is and can be. Gunflint, slate, oyster shells, white flowers and citrus are just some of the many notes that emerge from this finely sculpted, chiseled wine. In 2010, the Valmur possesses stunning nuance and tons of delineation. It finishes with notable persistence and an element of austerity that is not totally typical of Valmur, but that is, nevertheless, highly appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

William Fevre Vignoble de Vaulorent Fourchaume, Chablis Premier Cru 2010 ($74.95) $59 special, 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points 
“The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent is striking. It shows plenty of richness but very little in the way of excess weight. There is plenty of depth waiting to emerge from this expressive, mineral-drenched Chablis. Mint, flowers and white stone fruits wrap around the pure, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

William Fevre Bougros, Chablis Grand Cru 2010 ($89.95) $79 special, 7 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points 
“A restrained nose of citrus, floral, mineral reduction and algae slides into impressively rich, powerful, serious and concentrated flavors that are almost painfully intense on the explosive and strikingly long finish. This is a classic Bougros with its robust and muscular big-bodied flavors.”

**These wines just arrived from a European cellaring source

Azienda Vitivinicola Rizzi
Rizzi estate was established in 1974 by Ernesto Dellapiana on his family’s land.  The winery is a farmhouse built in the 1700s.  Ernesto and his son Enrico manage the 35 hectare estate.  Despite being one of the largest vineyard holders in Barbaresco, the top crus such as the Pajore and Nervo are rarely seen in the United States.  The Pajore cru is famous; producing long-lived wines with feminine and floral nuances.  The Rizzi vineyard land has a southern aspect with white marl soil.  These wines are floral and feminine with crisp red fruit and leather notes accented by exotic spices.  The Nervo cru holds the Rizzi Estate’s Fondetta vineyard.  The soil here is mostly poor, white marl with sand and the Rizzi’s Fondetta vineyard is south-facing to capture the most sun.  The vines are trained to the guyot method on the steep slopes that necessitate hand-picking grapes.  These elegant wines have an earthy and licorice quality alongside the floral and berry aromas.  Both of the cru wines are aged in large Slavonian oak botti before being transferred to cement and stainless steel before their final bottling.

Rizzi wines arriving next week

Rizzi Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $39 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “
Rizzi’s 2010 Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta is another terrific wine from Treiso. Sweet, balsamic and beautifully layered, the 2010 impresses for its exceptional overall balance. Dark plum and cherry notes flesh out in the glass, followed by sweet tobacco, licorice, spice and menthol notes. Sweet floral notes ring out on the finish. As always, the Rizzi style is built on immediacy, and there is plenty of that here, but at the same time, the 2010 boasts plenty of energy and class.”

Rizzi Pajore, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $41.90 special
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “
The 2010 Barbaresco Pajorè is the best wine I have ever tasted from Rizzi. Layers of deep, balsamic-inflected aromas and flavors wrap around the palate in a rich, expressive Barbaresco. Menthol, pine, minerals and cloves inform the striking, vivid finish. This plush, harmonious Barbaresco from one of the best sites in Treiso is firing on all cylinders. “

Azienda Agricola Azelia
Cavalier Lorenzo Scavino founded Azelia in 1920 by from his family’s vineyards in the Castiglione Falletto.  His son, Alfonso, began bottling the wine for export.  The estate is 16 hectares of old-vine vineyards that are green harvested to ensure very low yields.  Luigi, the fourth generation winemaker, manages the estate with his wife, Lorella, and son, Lorenzo.  His aim is to grow the best possible grapes, which in turn will result in the most complex wine.  The wine is made with both traditional and modern influences.  It is temperature controlled during primary and malolactic fermentation using only natural, ambient yeasts.  The wines are aged in barriques and large oak casks and are unfined and unfiltered to retain complexity.  The Barolo Normale shows finesse with a rich body.  It is produced from vines in the Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba with an average age of 45 years.  The Bricco Fiasco is from the steep hill in Castiglione Falletto.  It was produced from vines averaging 65 years in age and shows floral notes with ripe tannins.  The wine spent 2 years in small oak barrels.  The Margheria was produced from 50 year old vines in the Serralunga.  It spent 28 months in large oak casks.  The wine shows expressive notes of black fruit and spices with rich earthiness.  The San Rocco is a rich and lush wine, aged for 2 years in small barrels, with fruit and spice notes, accented by black licorice.  The vines average 55 years in age and are planted in clay and calcareous soils.

Azelia wines arriving next week
Azelia di Luigi Scavino Barolo DOCG 2010 ($37.95) $31.90 special
Antonio Galloni 91 points 
“Azelia Barolo is produced from 2.5 Ha of vineyards in both Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba.  The Nebbiolo is fermented for 15 days on the skins and spends 24 months is ‘botti grande’ large wood cask.  Azelia’s base Barolo is not produced from the young vines of the estate, these Nebbiolo vines are 25 to 40 years old!  Historically an incredible Barolo value, receives tremendous accolades from the wine press, can age for 12 to 15 years.  900 to 1,100 cases produced a year depending on the vintage.”Azelia di Luigi Scavino Bricco Fiasco, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($99.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Azelia’s 2010 Barolo Bricco Fiasco is incredibly polished in this vintage. Dried roses, crushed berries, tobacco, mint and spices are woven together in a fabric of nearly indescribable class and elegance. The ferrous notes and massive tannins typical of this Barolo are nearly completely covered with layers of deeply expressive, perfumed nuances that captivate all the senses. This is a super-classic feeling Bricco Fiasco from Azelia. I never thought I would describe a Bricco Fiasco Barolo as seductive, but Azelia’s 2010 is that, and a lot more.”Azelia di Luigi Scavino Margheria, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($89.95) $71.90 special
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2010 Barolo Margheria comes across as quite compact at this stage but then again, it is a young Serralunga Barolo. Iron, graphite, smoke and crushed rocks seem to resonate off a core of expressive dark fruit in a muscular, implosive Barolo endowed with tremendous depth and intensity. With time in the glass the wine’s inner perfume and sweetness begin to emerge, accompanied by expressive floral and savory notes that add tons of pure appeal. The 2010 is going to require considerable patience, but there is a lot to look forward to. Layers of chalk and limestone inflected minerality support to the building finish. The Margheria is aged entirely in cask, which among other things, means the malolactic fermentation is done the spring after harvest, later than the other Azelia’s Barolos.”Azelia di Luigi Scavino ‘San Rocco’, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($89.95) $71.90 special
Antonio Galloni 96 points “Dark cherry, plum, smoke, menthol, melted road tar and graphite meld together in the 2010 Barolo San Rocco. A big, explosive wine, the 2010 blossoms in the glass with layers of deep, expressive fruit. The San Rocco is usually a wine of volume and breadth, at it is again in 2010. The firm Serralunga tannins are present, but they are also beautifully balanced. I can’t wait to see how the 2010 develops. Today, the San Rocco is young, young, young.”Vietti 2010 BaroloArriving Next Thursday

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2010 ($179.95) $149 special 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points
 “The 2010 Barolo Lazzarito is impeccably polished, silky and refined, especially for a Serralunga Barolo. Mint, violets, black fruit, smoke and deep layers of spices are some of the many notes that flesh out on the inviting, textured finish. Today, the Lazzarito is incredibly primary to the point of being raw and undeveloped, but it is explosive, bursting with energy and flat-out great. This is also the first recent vintage I can remember tasting where the French oak is more in line with the other single-vineyard Barolos.”

Vietti Barolo Brunate 2010 ($189.95) $159 special 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 97 points 
“Dark red fruit, iron, new leather and smoke all jump from the 2010 Barolo Brunate. A huge, dense, powerful Barolo, the 2010 Brunate boasts stunning depth and sheer richness. At the same time, though, it is incredibly polished for such a big wine. The Brunate brings together the power of the Lazzarito, but with a greater sense of textural polish and finesse that is typical of the Rocche. In 2010, the Brunate is all about balance and harmony.”

Vietti Barolo Rocche 2010 ($219.95) $199 special 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 99 points 
“A wine of exquisite beauty, the 2010 Barolo Rocche is pure silk on the palate. The 2010 is incredibly dense, dark and powerful for a young Rocche. With time in the glass, the Rocche opens up nicely, showing the full breadth of its potential and pedigree. Stunning in the glass and impeccable throughout, the 2010 Rocche is firing on all cylinders. Sweet rose petals, mint, spices and licorice are woven into the breathtaking, perfumed finish.”

Stock List – Vietti Wines – Available Now

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2009 ($49.95) $37 special 2+ cases available
Wine Advocate 94 points
 “The 2009 Barolo Castiglione delivers a radiant but subdued quality with polished notes of dry mineral, black fruit, tar, licorice, leather and many more levels of complexity. This entry-level Barolo demonstrates that great results are achieved in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.”

This is the lowest listed price (including tax) in the USA
The average listed price is $44 / bottle

Vietti Barbera D’alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia 09 ($89.95) $77 special 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points 
“(from vines planted in 1918; this wine did its malolactic fermentation in barriques, 20% new and the rest at least five years old, then was moved into large Slavonian casks in the spring for another year of aging):  Bright, dark red.  Fresh, floral aromas of cherry and wild herbs, with complementary oak tones.  Dense, rich and deep, combining outstanding sweetness of fruit with harmonious acidity and serious power and structure.  This will age well on its sheer density.  Luca Currado picked these barbera vines early, “with very thick, ripe skins” and a crop level of under 25 hectoliters per hectare.”Vietti Barbaresco Masseria 2006 3L ($499.95) $399 special 1 double magnum available
Wine Advocate 93 points, Stephen Tanzer 92 points 
“Good deep red. Medicinal cherry and violet on the nose, with a hint of nuts. Sweet and fresh, with excellent inner-mouth energy and floral lift. But this also boasts an opulent texture, with the sweet tannins arriving late. I find this softer than the 2005 version, but again these tannins reminded me of a Barolo.”
Vietti Barbaresco Masseria 2007 1.5LITER ($349.95) $199 special 2 magnums available
Wine Advocate 94 points 
“The 2007 Barbaresco Masseria flows gracefully from the glass with fabulous aromas of crushed flowers, berries, spices and minerals. It is a wonderfully perfumed, elegant Barbaresco of the highest level. Supple and open today, it promises to drink well to age twenty, if not significantly longer. Hints of the profound 1989 Barolo Rocche – one of the all time greats here – lingers on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.”Vietti Barbera D’asti La Crena 2007 1.5LITER ($149.95) $119 special 1 magnum available
Wine Advocate 94 points
 “Vietti’s 2007 Barbera d’Asti La Crena is a thrilling glass of wine. Jammy dark fruit, minerals, spices and French oak come together beautifully in this opulent, gorgeous La Crena. Today the wine is naturally quite primary, but with another few years in the bottle, it should develop plenty of tertiary nuances. I generally have my best experiences with La Crena around age ten, and have found it to be a wine that can stand side by side with just about anything. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.”Vietti Barbera D’alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia 2010 ($89.95) $69 special 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points
 “Vietti’s 2010 Barbera d’Alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia shows the pedigree of these old vines. Rich and explosive in style, yet buffered by fabulous minerality, the 2010 Vigna Vecchia stands out for its exceptional balance and polish. This is a great vintage for one of Piedmont’s icon wines.”
Vietti Barolo Brunate 2006 1.5LITER ($399.95) $319 special 2 magnums available
Vietti Barolo Brunate 2006 3LITER ($829.95) $699 special 1 double magnum available
Wine Enthusiast 97 points 
“Bravo! The Brunate cru has awarded Vietti with a stellar product: a wine that is unusually dark and plush with impressive intensity and crafted aromas of black fruit, spice, earth, licorice, balsam and gianduia chocolate-hazelnut spread. The soft, velvety texture is seductively delicious and the wine will age many long, glorious years.”Vietti Barolo Brunate 2007 1.5LITER ($479.95) $399 special 1 magnum available
Wine Advocate 98 points
 “The 2007 Barolo Brunate is a stunner. Layers of dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, menthol, pine and spices emerge reluctantly from an inward, mysterious Barolo that captures the essence of one of Piedmont’s greatest sites. Structurally, it remains a powerhouse, with massive tannins, great body and fabulous length. The Brunate is one of the most improved wines at Vietti over the last few years, and is a huge success in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.”

Vietti Barolo Brunate 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points
 “From one of the region’s most celebrated vineyards, the 2009 Barolo Brunate lavishes on smoky, granite and mineral notes that make this wine absolutely irresistible. Even the drawing of a snail on the label seems to hammer home one obvious point: This wine is built for longer cellar aging. Its rich texture, velvety feel and firm structure are guarantees that it will become increasingly elegant and finessed with time. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030.”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2006 1.5LITER ($399.95) $349 special 1 magnum available
Wine Advocate 97 points
 “The 2006 Barolo Lazzarito has begun to show the pedigree of this great Serralunga site now that Vietti has backed off the French oak, and the 2006 is nothing short of superb. A melange of dark, mineral-infused fruit flows from the glass as the large-scaled Lazzarito gradually shows off its class. Licorice, tar, smoke and earthiness add layers of complexity and nuance. The Lazzarito is still the Barolo that spends the longest number of months in French oak following the malolactic fermentation, but that period is down to several months from a full year the wine spent in small barrels up until 2001 or so. One day the Lazzarito may challenge the Rocche as Vietti’s signature Barolo, and that day may be closer than most people realize. This huge, imposing Barolo will require patience, but it is nothing short of superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2007 1.5LITER ($449.95) $349 special 2 magnums available
Wine Advocate 96+ points
 “The 2007 Barolo Lazzarito is a superb, plush wine loaded with dark fruit, flowers of all sorts, sweet menthol and minerals, all of which flow through to the long, powerful finish. The wine’s inner perfume emerges over time, adding even more nuance and subtlety to this big Barolo. The 2007 Lazzarito is far from an open, easygoing wine, in fact it needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2042.”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points 
“Luca recently purchased more land in the Lazzarito cru. The 2009 Barolo Lazzarito delivers subdued notes of red rose and violet that build in intensity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. Black fruit, plum, cassis, leather, tar and licorice soon follow suit. This wine is an absolute, drop-dead stunner. Its tannic crispness makes it feel lively and buoyant in the mouth. The wine shows heft and importance that become firmly etched in the mouth. Each time I went back to the glass, the wine told a new story. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035.”

Vietti Barolo Rocche 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points 
“The 2009 Barolo Rocche is a solid, unwavering expression that brings the intensity meter even higher. Sweet red fruit, licorice, leather and moist pipe tobacco are some of the many layers that peel back from the bouquet. The balance, structure and persistence of the wine are all superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036”

Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva 2006 ($349.95) $299 special 22 bottles available
Wine Advocate 97 points, Antonio Galloni 96+ points
 “The last wine of the flight is the outstanding 2006 Barolo Riserva Villero. It literally bursts open to full force intensity and beauty. It’s a mind-blowing interpretation of the often austere and brooding Nebbiolo grape that shows abundant life and vigor. Dark leather, cured beef, pressed rose petal, candied fruit, prune, cola, dried herbs and crushed mineral emerge from the glass like an aromatic marching band. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035.”