Saturday Special 6-13-20

In Today’s Newsletter:


Luis Gutierrez Heaps Praise on Rias Baixas’ Finest
Do Ferreiro and Nanclares


Josh Raynolds Reviews Two Rose Favorites

No Wine Untouched By Magic
The Astounding 2015 Brunellos


Trending Wines

Staff Pick – The Forbidden Fruit of Hermitage

Bodegas Maranones:
There’s More to Sierra de Gredos than Comando G


Collector’s Corner
2010 Dugat-Py – Star Vintage Meets Star Producer

 
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Luis Gutierrez Heaps Praise on Rias Baixas Finest

“Rías Baixas, or perhaps I should say Albariño, has become a commercial success and that brings a sea of innocuous cold-fermented wines bottled early that are often too reductive and hardly given time to express the variety or the place where the grapes come from.…But the place (some places) is capable of world-class wines.” – Luis Gutierrez, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Most Albarino is industrial wine.  Not that it’s bad, but there’s a formula to your basic $10-$20 bottle of Galician white.  The wine is picked earlyish, before rain can risk the harvest, and fermented with a selection of commercial yeasts that give the generic white wine a lot of fruitiness (especially on the nose) and a little bit more body. It’s aged very briefly in stainless steel tanks and sent to market as fast as possible to be a delicious, if simple, quaffer.

By contrast, both Gerardo Mendez (of Do Ferreiro) and Alberto Nanclares do things very differently in pursuit of excellent wine.  Both winemakers use indigenous yeasts, eschewing the quick and fruity fermentations for ones that last longer and produce distinct mineral notes in the wines.  Those mineral notes are what separates the great (or as they’d argue, true) Albarino from the commodity stuff.  In the hands of these two, Albarino has more in common with great Chablis or a GG from Keller than it does with something like Torrontes.

Both winemakers use vineyards with very old vines, most notably in the Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas, which originates from a parcel of 200 year old Albarino trained in the traditional Albarello method.  This training (common for many of the vineyards from these two but otherwise rare) is an extremely labor intensive way to farm the vineyard yields excellent wines but has fallen out of favor as it requires almost all the work to be done by hand.  Few are willing to work this way anymore and as a result, few make wines like these.  If you love deeply soulful, mineral drenched whites, you owe it to yourself to pick some up and see what true Albarino really tastes like.

Luis Gutierrez of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate recently published a set of reviews that highlight the depth and complexity of the best of Galicia.  These scores are as well deserved as the quantities are scarce, though, so act accordingly.

In Stock Now:


Do Ferreiro

Do Ferreiro Albarino Cepas Vellas, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($69.95) $54 special, 28 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 96 points
“The 2018 Albariño Cepas Vellas has to be one of the finest vintages of this old-vine (reaaaaally old vine!) cuvée, in a vintage where the wine reached levels of elegance and harmony that I don’t remember before. After having the wine in the glass for almost two hours, the nose was explosive, and the palate felt like bottled electricity, with effervescent acidity that makes you salivate, and it had incredible depth and concentration. They now tell me they think the vines could have been planted in 1785, in a property that had been a granite quarry, so I don’t need to tell you what the soils are like here. This is a zone with a lot of fog, and that brings intense salinity to the wines. I need to dig out some bottles of 2010 I have somewhere in my cellar and check the evolution, because they tell me, and I agree, that this is a modern version of the 2010. There are 8,000 bottles of this wine. It was bottled in September 2019.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
 
Do Ferreiro Albarino Adina, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94+ points
“The 2018 Adina comes from the southernmost vineyard they work, a parish close to Portonovo, a zone with influence from the fog (which brings saltiness) and completely different soils, as it’s on red slate. The nose feels more austere, a little more closed. This is a wine that has good light and burns more malic acid, and the wine feels more citrusy, giving it a different kind of freshness. It’s harmonious and serious, subtle; there is a lot of complexity, really elegant. There are 2,000 bottles of this. It was bottled in September 2019.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Do Ferreiro Albarino Dous Ferrados, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 15 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 93 points
“The only Albariño where they use any wood is the 2018 Dous Ferrados, which ferments and matures in barrel for nine months with lees. The idea is to go back to the wines from yesteryear, fermenting in large-volume oak casks (500 liters here) with the intention that the wood is in the background and does not interfere with the aromatics of the variety but aid the micro-oxygenation of the wine. The grapes are sourced from the same soils as the Adina, on red slate soils, a different source than the old “barrica” bottling that was from Meaño. The wine needed a little bit of time to open up in the glass; funnily enough, it felt more reductive/blurry than any of its siblings. The palate is saline and mineral, with marked granite sensations in the grainy texture, and finishes long and dry. 1,300 bottles were filled in September 2019.”

 
This is the only listing in the USA today!

Do Ferreiro Albarino Lourido, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points
“The sharper 2018 Lourido is the most delicate of their three single-vineyard bottlings, from a place very close to the sea on decomposed granite (sand) where the influence of the sea comes with the fog, not with the proximity to the sea, but here they get a very mineral wine, with lots of dry extract (power) and very fresh acidity. It was kept 11 months with lees, and they are thinking even longer with lees could be good for it. This is a mini cepas vellas, from 60- to 65-year-old vines. This is a profile I like very much; it pretty much showcases the style of Salnés. This is only the third vintage of this wine. 1,300 bottles were filled in September 2019. This is approachable, and I think it’s also going to age magnificently.”
 

This is the only listing in the USA today!


Bodegas Nanclares

Bodegas Nanclares Albarino ‘A Grana’, Galicia 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94+ points
“The one wine that is different from the rest is the 2018 A Graña, not only because of the chestnut wood used, which in 2018 was already in its third use and therefore more neutral, but also because of the soil, granodiorite, a kind of granite that has more feldspar and quartz, in the zone of Adina in Sanxenxo. This might give a somewhat more rustic minerality, and the chestnut seems to let the wine express itself—it doesn’t make the wine rounder like oak does, and wines in chestnut are a bit wilder. The vineyard also delivers very high acidity, as it’s very shallow and hard. It delivers a wine with great tension, a bit of a revelation. I’ve always liked this wine, and this 2018 is more in the direction of the 2016. This is also very salty, tasty, umami… This wine has a pH of 2.8! After their experience with this wine, they are purchasing more chestnut barrels… 1,196 bottles and 10 magnums were filled in August 2019.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Bodegas Nanclares ‘Soverribas de Nanclares’, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($49.95) $45 special, 35 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 95 points
“The 2018 Soverribas is a single-vineyard Albariño from a plot in Meaño on sandy granite soils. The grapes fermented with indigenous yeasts in a 2,200-liter oak vat from 2004 (so, already very neutral). This is a bit of a chameleonic wine that needs time in bottle and can often be confusing when drunk very young. This is austere and mineral, and it might be a good idea to decant this in advance if you are going to pull the cork any time soon. There are notes of wet granite, white flowers. This is a long-distance runner. This also transcends its price level. Amazingly enough, this wine was rejected by the appellation of origin! 2,669 bottles and 40 magnums produced.”

 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Bodegas Nanclares ‘Alberto Nanclares’ Albarino, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points
“I found the nose of the 2018 Alberto Nanclares to be austere, serious and mineral, with more notes that make you think of the sea than any fruit. This is a blend of grapes from their own vineyards (up to 10), and all the grapes that are not used for any of the other bottlings are used here. Part of this ferments in stainless steel (65% in 2018) and the other part in oak. The nose is about wet stones, sea breeze, hints of iodine; if anything, it’s white flowers rather than fruit. The palate feels like they had some seawater in the wine! It’s salty, tasty, austere and makes you salivate, and the flavor lasts forever. Awesome! Bring some seafood… 8,195 bottles and 129 magnums were filled in June 2019.”
 

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Bodegas Nanclares Coccinella Albarino, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 7 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points
“There was no 2017, so I jumped to the 2018 Coccinella, one of my favorite wines in Rías Baixas, and it delivers in this 2018 vintage. If there is one word that defines this vintage, it would be delicate. The wine is delicate, elegant, nuanced, insinuating and subtle, certainly different from previous years. This comes from selected plants from a vineyard, Inxertal in Ribadumia, whose grapes are fermented in a 400-liter French oak barrel from 2010 (so, very neutral). The palate is also quite nuanced and mellow, as the moderate alcohol and high acidity are nicely balanced by a touch of residual sugar that goes completely unnoticed; there is a sensation of harmony and elegance, perhaps in the style of a German feinherb. I think this is going to evolve nicely in bottle. Only 504 bottles were filled in August 2019.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Bodegas Nanclares ‘Crisopa’ Albarino, Rias Baixas 2018 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 23 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points
“The completely unusual “orange” wine is a bright amber Albariño macerated with skins during the fermentation. The 2018 Crisopa, produced with grapes from the same vineyard as Soberrivas, has a completely different nose and a brighter and deeper color than any previous vintage. Perhaps the grapes were smaller and there might be more skins for the juice, and the wine underwent malolactic (at least partially). There are notes of apple liqueur, pollen and beeswax, and the palate is finely tannic. Here, the process overpowers the variety and place. It has lower acidity than most of the wines from the winery, but this is one of the finest examples of the type. It should develop nicely in bottle. 636 bottles were filled in August 2019.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!
 
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Josh Raynolds Reviews Two Rose Favorites

Mirabeau Classic Rose, Cotes De Provence 2019 750ML ($27.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points
“Light, brilliant orange. Raspberry, white peach and succulent flowers on the mineral-tinged nose. Sappy red berry, pit fruit and citrus zest flavors deepen slowly and take on a spicy aspect with air. Hangs on with very good tenacity, leaving pit fruit and red berry notes behind.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
 
Domaine de Triennes Rose, IGP Var 2019 750ML ($19.95) $16 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points
“Translucent onion skin. Orange zest, persimmon, red berries and a subtle floral nuance on the fragrant nose. Concentrated but lithe and seemingly weightless, offering tangy red currant, strawberry and blood orange flavors that pick up a spicy nuance on the back half. Finishes brisk and tight, with repeating spiciness and a sneaky floral quality. This wine has the depth of flavor to handle full-flavored foods, but there’s no excess fat here, either. A solid value.” 
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No Wine Untouched By Magic

The Astounding 2015 Brunellos


“This is a standout group of new releases from Montalcino. What impresses most about 2015 is the consistently high quality delivered across the board. As a whole, the wines are homogenous and uniform in terms of their intensity, depth and generosity. House styles may differ from producer to producer, but these wines are united by the energy, exuberance and radiance that come naturally to a beautifully warm and sunny vintage like 2015. That distinctive vintage signature is applied evenly across the board, leaving no wine untouched by its magic.” – Monica Larner, Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

You can tell a lot about a Brunello vintage by how early we start getting asked about it.  In the case of the 2015s, well, let’s just say this is a pretty anticipated set of wines.  ’15 was a warm year across Europe and the vintage produced Brunello di Montalcino of exceptional concentration.  Even for a region known for richer wines, these are powerful—yet they maintain an expressiveness that’s delightfully fresh to go along with their intensity.

The critics have been raving about it as well, with Eric Guido at Vinous saying that “It’s a vintage of power and purity, the result of a long growing season with no extreme events” before citing Andrea Mantengoli, who called it “A vintage made by God.”

Monica Larner, writing for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, exclaimed “Ask anyone who farmed Sangiovese that year. They will tell you: Fruit has never been more beautiful than it was in the picture-perfect 2015 vintage.”  She called the wines “a standout group of new releases from Montalcino” with “consistently high quality delivered across the board.”

In short, this is a vintage to buy broadly and deeply.  Not since 2010 have we seen this sort of widespread praise and we all wish we have more 2010 Brunello in our cellars.  We’ve got some of the highlights of our 2015 Brunello selection below, but we’ve got new wines added to our webstore every week and you can see all the Brunello options there.


Newly Added, Arriving ETA Late June:

Tenuta Fanti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 95 points
“There’s a beautiful interplay between bright, primary florals, such as rose petals and tulips and dust, hay bale and dried raspberries. The palate suggests a ripe, powerful persona with chewy, juicy tannins and a fine line of pretty acidity. Best ever. Drink in 2022.”

In Stock Now:

Castello di Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($49.95) $38 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Castello di Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($299.95) $219 special (that’s only $36.50/bottle!)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points
“The Camigliano 2015 Brunello di Montalcino sees fruit from a 50-hectare vineyard planted 300 to 350 meters above sea level. The soils show lots of variation with clay, sand, rock and marine fossils. The wine’s bouquet reveals classic Brunello characteristics of wild berry, forest floor, pressed rose petal, crushed stone and spice. You also get those typical balsam and herbal tones that are so specific to Montalcino. In fact, I argue that they come across with even more intensity in a beautifully balanced and sunny vintage such as 2015. This wine ages in 60-hectoliter botti for 24 months, making for a firm yet surprisingly streamlined mouthfeel. With 160,000 bottles made, the wine was released in January 2020.”
James Suckling 94 points “A bright and elegant Brunello that suggests sliced oranges, tulips and rose petals. Medium-to full-bodied and finely structured, drawing on silky layers of tannins and a vibrant edge of acidity. Drink now or hold.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “A focused, lively red, this exhibits cherry, strawberry, earth, mineral and Mediterranean herb flavors. Dense, staying fresh as this unwinds on the lingering aftertaste. Best from 2023 through 2042.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML  ($59.95) $45 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($719.95) $489 special (that’s only $40.75/bottle!)
James Suckling 95 points
“The sliced plums and peaches are plentiful here on the nose. Full-bodied and dense with round and rich tannins and a long, long finish. Shows structure and intensity. Serious Brunello. Better after 2022.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “This is round and full of sweet, ripe cherry, strawberry, graphite and earth flavors. Firms up as the finish plays out, echoing an essence of fruit. Best from 2022 through 2039. —B.S.”

Luce della Vite Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($179.95) $149 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Case-3 Luce della Vite Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($549.95) $425 special (that’s only $141.67/bottle!)
James Suckling 100 points
“Amazing aromas of crushed berries, cherries, flowers, black truffles and wet earth, turning to violets and black tea. Extremely aromatic. Full-bodied, deep and profound with fantastically strong tannins that just melt into the wine. Fantastic length and intensity. Truly great. Drinkable, but better in 2024 and onwards.”

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($799.95) $549 special (that’s only $45.75/bottle!)
James Suckling 97 points
“Wonderful aromos of flowers, plums, terracotta and white pepper. Intense, yet ever so subtle. Medium to full body, firm and silky tannins, and a long and intense finish. Shows excellent length. Drink after 2021.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Good deep red. Complex aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, graphite, mocha, and mint. Focused and suave with very attractive sweetness and standout purity to its flavors of red berries and candied flowers. Finishes with polished tannins and outstanding length.”

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($69.95) $55 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 1.5L ($149.95) $119 special, 6 magnums in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points
“Black cherry and black currant fruit is accented by tobacco, earth and mineral flavors in this sleek yet dense red. Balsamic elements of juniper, thyme and olive add depth as this cruises to a long finish. The potential lies in the excellent length. Best from 2023 through 2042. —B.S.”
Eric Guido – Vinous 94 points “La Gerla’s 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous, showing depths of earthy moist soil, minerals and hints of animal musk up front, giving way to crushed strawberry and cherry, getting spicy with lifting minerals yet retaining a rich character throughout. On the palate, silky textures are matched by cool-toned acids and refreshing moist mineral tones, as zesty cherry and cedar come forward. It’s so balanced and smooth, with high energy lasting into the long finish, showing saturating spice and salty minerals, yet remaining cool-toned and precise. The 2015 is a beautifully balanced wine that’s firmly rooted in the earth.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!


Arriving ETA June:

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($59.95) $45 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 95 points
“Offering cherry, plum, iron, earth and floral aromas and flavors, this is vibrant and beautifully balanced. Well-structured, with the harmony and concentration to develop. Best from 2023 through 2043. 4,000 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.”
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 95 points “Vibrant red. Minerals and violet complement lively red cherry and raspberry aromas on the incisive nose. Then enticingly fresh and well-balanced, with captivating violet inner-mouth perfume to the steely red and black fruit flavors that linger impressively. The delicately peppery finish features polished if youthful tannins and noteworthy purity of fruit. Knockout 2015 Brunello, one of the top half dozen of the year.”
James Suckling 95 points “This is a very decadent Brunello with dried stems, charcuterie, bay leaf, Thai basil and earth. Full-bodied an0064 dense, the deeply interlocked layers of dark fruit nearly tripping over the ropey, chewy tannin structure. Drink from 2026.”

Sassetti Livio Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($89.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Sassetti Livio Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($549.95) $399 pre-arrival special (that’s only $66.50/bottle!)
Sassetti Livio Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 1.5L ($189.95) $159 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 98 points
“There’s something ethereal in the nose with flowers, cherries, strawberries and shitake mushrooms. Full body. This grows on the palate with super tannin and fruit structure. So much berry flavor and round, caressing tannins that fill your mouth. Tight at the end. This needs four to five years to show its true greatness. Try after 2023.”

 
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Trending Wines
 
A 92-point quarantine special—under $20 and ready to drink now.
Castello di Camigliano Poderuccio Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2017 750ML ($21.95) $17.70 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 92 points
“A ripe style, verging on overripe, boasting plum and blackberry flavors, with iron, leather and wild herb notes. Broad and powerful, revealing a dense layer of tannins on the long, savory finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2028. 3,333 cases made, 580 cases imported.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Excellent Cote de Blancs Champagne that way over delivers for the price.
Diebolt-Vallois Brut Tradition, Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 91 points
“Bright, with citrusy acidity, this harmonious Champagne offers a creamy mousse and a minerally underpinning layered with flavors of apricot, honeysuckle, salted almond and biscuit. A crowd-pleaser. Drink now through 2020. 125 cases imported.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

There’s a reason Merlot is such a widely planted grape and this is killer value.
Owen Roe Sharecropper’s Merlot, Yakima Valley 2015 750ML ($19.95) $14.50 special
Case-12 Owen Roe Sharecropper’s Merlot, Yakima Valley 2015 750ML ($249.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Winery note
“This new bottling of Sharecropper’s Merlot shows aromas of cranberry, tart cherry, violet and spice. Dazzling flavors of black cherry, currant, plum and hints of pepper are nicely balanced with bright acidity and firm tannins, finishing with a hint of baking cocoa. Vineyard Sources- Elerding, Outlook, Red Willow and Union Gap. Barrel aged in 14% new oak for 10 months.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $18.99

Rosé? Orange wine? It’s Ramato and it’s delicious.
Cameron Winery Pinot Gris Ramato, Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($31.95) $27 special
Winery Note
“This lovely copper-colored libation takes its name from the Italian word for copper:  Rame.  This year’s rendition has a complex palate of white peach juice, mint, cedar, white pepper, tangerine, jasmine and lime zest. Notes of peach follow through on the palate along with marzipan, green almonds and a refreshing acidity.  There is plenty of structure to stand up to meat, but not a major earthquake.”

Back in stock and still fantastic value.
Brazilier Methode Trad Brut Rose, Loire NV 750ML ($21.95) $17 special
Pineau d’Aunis from 25+ year old vines grown in chalky limestone soil.
Winery Note “This quality sparkling wine comes from a long aging process: after fermentation, it spends about 12 months sur lattes to give it its fine bubbles and the typical aromas of Pineau d’Aunis such as peony.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

“what Barbaresco is all about.” – Antonio Galloni
Ca’ del Baio Vallegrande, Barbaresco DOCG 2016 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Ca’ del Baio Vallegrande, Barbaresco DOCG 2016 750ML ($599.95) $379 special (that’s only $31.58/bottle!)
James Suckling 94 points
“Lots of dried strawberries with watermelon and hints of cherries on the nose and palate. Medium to full body. Firm and silky tannins. Flavorful finish. Drink after 2021.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2016 Barbaresco Vallegrande is bright and fragrant, with tremendous energy driving the red/purplish berry fruit, spice and floral flavors. Medium in body and finely cut, the 2016 is a model of elegance and finesse. It is easily one of the most polished Barbarescos I have tasted from Ca’ del Baio, and, frankly, what Barbaresco is all about.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $43

A great vintage for Marcus Goodfellow and this wine is entering a nice drinking window.
Goodfellow Family Cellars Whistling Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2015 750ML ($49.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 93 points
“From a vineyard planted in 1990, the pale to medium ruby colored 2015 Pinot Noir Whistling Ridge Vineyard has a spicy nose of coriander, warm cinnamon, potpourri and dried leaves over a core of baked cranberry and red cherry fruit with meaty/savory touches. Light to medium-bodied, it has spice-laced red fruits in the mouth, with a great frame of fine-grained tannins and wonderful freshness, finishing very long and very spicy. 270 cases produced.”
VinopolNote “Whistling Ridge has become Marcus Goodfellow’s Cros Parantoux-a vineyard that somehow went overlooked but now produces exceptional wines in the right hands.  Nestled on the ridgetop abutting the Beaux Freres Upper Terrace, wines from Whistling Ridge tend to be compact and powerful-built for aging.  Lots of spice and floral notes blend with a mix of black and red fruits for a stellar wine that’s one of the best versions yet.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!
The average price across all vintages is $39

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Staff Pick

The Forbidden Fruit of Hermitage

Andy:
As far as I have been concerned, Hermitage was the forbidden fruit. Price points and availability have always kept me looking for other wines that over performed from less tony areas of the northern Rhone. I’ve been very lucky to have a number of friends who have shared their cellar stashes of well aged Hermitage that have shown beautifully, but I’d always ended up opening mine far too soon. I was determined not to open the Colombier Hermitage before its time, but recently my determination was pushed aside. Having made plans to open the wine a day early, I pulled the cork on a Friday evening and poured a small glass to open up a little headspace. My first impressions seemed to confirm my fears that the wine was not yet ready. The fruit had been destemmed so there was no wild character,  but the initial attack seemed too intense and concentrated, dense with dark fruit and spice. I walked away from even that small glass, coming back to it over the evening to stick my nose in from time to time. It stayed tight as a tiger until almost 3 hours later when the transformation started. All of a sudden the beautiful floral notes that I always detect in older bottles started to bloom. There was hope after all.

The next morning, I went back to the bottle to see what had transpired overnight and the progression was lovely. As I poured it that evening, there was a pronounced firm cherry note mixed in with the dark blackberry and plum. The acidity seemed more vibrant and the wine had a verve and jump to it. Knowing that their plots have more limestone I had hoped that there would be a lifted style to the wine, and I was not disappointed. Even the tannins seemed more fine and gentle than they had the night before. The finish was lengthy but not overpowering; just enough memory of what you’d just tasted to make you want another sip. I am so glad to have more of these in the stash. They will definitely hold for years, and now that my curious nature has been sated, I expect that they’ll stay in the cellar, but I am looking forward to the next excuse to enjoy them.

Domaine du Colombier Hermitage Rouge, Rhone 2015 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points
“The 2015 Hermitage comes from the Les Doignières and Les Beaumes lieux-dits which are more clay and limestone soils. It’s another sensational Hermitage from this magical hillside that I wish every reader could taste. Cassis, damp earth, liquid violets and a liqueur of rocks-like profile emerge from this full-bodied, concentrated and powerful Hermitage, which has no shortage of extract or tannin. It’s for consumers with cold cellars and plenty of patience as it’s going to require at least 4-5 years of cellaring.”

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Bodegas Maranones:

There’s More to Sierra de Gredos than Comando G!


The wines of Madrid have had a devoted following, especially those out of the Sierra de Gredos. The entire plateau seems to be drenched in the intense sunlight of Spain, but the altitude and the confluence of so many tributaries lends to a dramatic diurnal swing. Soils feature primarily decomposed granitic, sandy soils – the quintessential stomping ground for well-built Garnacha. These vineyards are only about a half hour from Madrid yet feel timeless, as though they were cut out of the mountains and could be found nowhere else. The highest planted parcels are surrounded by pine trees and old Pyrenean oaks that feel like sentinels looking over the reinvigorated vines that had been neglected for so long. With the care of proud parents, the families of the surrounding area participate in the harvest and the team at the winery has committed itself to preserving the connection between these vines and the people of the village.

The two wines are similar in their concentration and aromatic signatures, but the 2016 30,000 Maravedies has an elegance and brightness that reflects the edge of the vintage. The ’15 was a vintage that brought the heat and the Maranones Maranones was delightful, even superior to many comparable wines of the southern Rhone. Whole clusters and indigenous yeasts give a silky but substantial texture on the palate and wild sauvage aromatic signature. Floral and herbal notes surround dark fruit that opens up nicely. These wines are generous but balanced and will age beautifully over the next decade.
 

In Stock Now:

Bodegas Maranones 30,000 Maravedies, Madrid 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 91+ points
“The fully developed, aromatic and open 2016 30.000 Maravedíes, with nice aromatics and a very pleasant palate. It’s fragrant and elegant, with pungent flavors and very good persistence. This is a superb showing for this bottling. 39,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2017.”

Bodega Maranones ‘Maranones’, Madrid 2015 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 92 points
“Produced with Garnacha grapes from three plots of vines in San Martín de Valdeiglesias, the 2015 Marañones fermented with full clusters in oak vats with indigenous yeasts and matured in 500-liter barrels for one year. It’s riper and more Mediterranean, especially when tasted next to the 2016. The wine has earthy tannins and shows moderate acidity. It’s a riper year, resembling the wines from the south of the Rhône, but with a finesse and an elegance. 9,092 bottles were filled in February 2017.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

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Collector’s Corner

2010 Dugat-Py – Star Vintage Meets Star Producer


Dugat-Py makes some of the most coveted wines in Burgundy—powerful, rich versions of Pinot Noir that have made the estate one of the most admired and talked about in the world of wine.  They’ve been a coveted producer for decades, focusing on extremely careful farming, low yields and old vines in a way that most other domaines only talk about.

In 2011, Antonio Galloni remarked that “The Dugat-Py wines are breathtaking for their richness and depth. Despite their sheer concentration, the wines retain tons of vineyard and vintage character. These are some of the most viscerally thrilling, exciting wines I tasted on my recent trip through Burgundy.” High praise, certainly, but he was echoing a line of other writers praising these gems of the Cote de Nuits.

We’ve secured an assortment of some of their wines from one of the finest vintages in recent memory, 2010, directly from the distributor, The Wine Advocate once asked “can anyone think of an easier job than having to sell Bernard Dugat’s wines?” and we don’t think so.

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Domaine Dugat-Py Petite Chapelle, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($399.95) $299 special, only 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93-95 points
“The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chappelle emerges from the glass with freshly cut flowers, spices, mint and licorice. This is a totally harmonious, gracious wine from Bernard Dugat. The richness and weight of the fruit are very nicely balanced by the cooler, more vibrant qualities of the year. This is all class and elegance. Small red berries, flowers and licorice reappear on the finish. The Petite Chapelle was vinified with 50% whole clusters and aged in 100% new oak.”
Burghound 93 points “Outstanding. Here the nose is more elegant and airier with an almost Chambolle-like aromatic profile. The floral and liqueur of red raspberry fruit notes are refined and pure. There is beautiful precision and intensity to the medium-bodied flavors that brim with an almost pungent minerality on the complex, long and balanced finish. Though this is lacy and indeed delicate, the Gevrey roots express themselves via the sleek but taut muscularity that arrives right on the finish. Impressive juice with plenty of upside potential.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $369.99
That’s a difference of over $70!

Domaine Dugat-Py Champeaux Tres Vieilles Vignes, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($399.95) $299 special, only 6 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points
“outstanding. This is almost like a hypothetical combination of the Gevrey “1er” and the Petite Chapelle with a ripe and admirably pure nose of cassis, spiced plum, wet stone and pungent earth aromas. There is genuinely brilliant complexity to the exceptionally rich and equally stony broad-shouldered flavors that possess perhaps a bit more refinement than usual on the strikingly persistent finish. This is a stunner of a Champeaux in a vintage that produced any number of them.”
Antonio Galloni 92-94 points “The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux is a more structured, tannic wine than the Petite Chappelle. The fruit tends towards the redder end of the spectrum, but ultimately the Champeaux is more about minerality and sheer length. This is a 2010 with firm, imposing tannins that is going to require quite a bit of cellaring.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $325
The average listed price is $347

Domaine Dugat-Py Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvee Coeur de Roy Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($249.95) $169 special, only 10 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91 points
“The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roi is racy, deep and totally sensual. Clean veins of minerality support a core of expressive blue and black fruit. The 2010 is both deep and long. All the elements are beautifully balanced in this impeccable, mineral driven wine. Cassis, blueberries, sweet flower and mint inform the energetic, palate staining finish. Dugat used 75% whole clusters, which gives the wine an attractive aromatic lift throughout. These vines are between 50-100 years old.”
Burghound 90 points “outstanding. A ripe and attractively perfumed nose features notes of black cherry, cassis and plum that are given added lift from the copious floral nuances. There is simply incredible concentration to the round and suave medium weight plus flavors that possess a velvety mouth feel on the powerful, precise and superbly focused and persistent finish. This explosive effort delivers knockout quality for its level.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $201.99
That’s a difference of over $32

Domaine Dugat-Py Bourgogne Cuvee Halinard, Burgundy 2010 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, only 10 bottles available

This is the only listing in the USA today!

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Thanks for reading!