Marcus Goodfellow’s Stunning 2017’s
First Offer:
2017 Sea Smoke
Keller Heavy Hitters
New Wines from Vajra
Collector’s Corner:
The Best of Vin Santo
Trending
New Arrivals
A US Exclusive Offer
Korrell: A German Riesling Star
2016 Dagueneau
Marcus Goodfellow’s Stunning 2017’s
Including First-Ever Temperance Hill & Block-Designate Bottlings
The release of a new vintage from Goodfellow is one of the most exciting things that happens in the shop—Marcus is one of the premier winemakers in Oregon and any new collection of wine from him is a must-taste (and also must-buy/cellar). 2017 is a return to classic Oregon after years of heat influenced vintages, so it was nice to see the convergence of an old-school year with a new approach to how Marcus is organizing his releases.
This year marks the debut of block-designated wines in the Goodfellow lineup. Taking their place above the single vineyard wines but below the Heritage bottlings, they represent singular terroirs that deserve special focus. 2017 also marks the debut of Goodfellow working with the legendary Temperance Hill vineyard—a synthesis of house style and vineyard signature that is as perfect as we could hope for.
From top to bottom, the 2017’s are some of the best he’s made. These are profound wines, both white and red, that are made in a style that’s distinctly savory—no fruit bombs here. Rather, we love them for their coiled power and Burgundian structure. These are wines that speak with an Oregon voice, but the tannin and acidity comes from an old-world point of view. Quantities are more limited than previous years, so fans of his should take note and act quickly.
Just Arrived/In Stock Now:
A Vinopolis exclusive!
Goodfellow Family Cellars Richard’s Cuvee Chardonnay, Whistling Ridge Vineyard, Ribbon Ridge 2017 750ML ($49.95) $44 special
Winery note “Translucent crimson. Elegant nose of fresh tobacco, smoke, strawberries and red apple skin, with sea air, stoney ground, iris root, roses, asian spice, orange peel, and cedar cigar box. There are wines that leap at you and wines that beckon you into the glass- this is the later. The cedar note is a classic expression of Temperance Hill terroir, and I was happy to see it in this wine. The palate on opening is bright, with red berries, currants, pie cherries, rhubarb, strawberry tea and hints of citrus peel. Juicy and refreshing, with tartly balanced acids and fine tannins, the wine fills in texture with air, with a mid-weight silkiness that is ideal for pork belly, tortilla de Espanol, and roast chicken. 13.7% alcohol, 160 cases produced. Drink now, or from 2023-2034.”
Winery note “Pure and expressive, with vivid red fruits of strawberry and red currants, cedar cigar box, bramble, raspberry leaf and floral aromatics, brown spice, cinnamon, and kirsch. This is more brilliantly red fruited, intense, and structured than the Temperance Hill bottling. Subtle tones of lilac and heather, orange zest, more cedar and tobacco, but at the youthful forefront, the brilliant red fruit. 13.7% alcohol, 75 cases produced. Drink now-2039.”
Winery note “Think of a young classic vintage Nuits St. George. The wine has great depth without loudness (what musicians refer to as tone), and builds power in the glass with air. Darker red and black fruits with forest floor. Seductively mysterious, with clove spice, ripe strawberry, coconut oil, apple skin and red earth. Juicy palate, youthful, red/black, with a vinous, savory bramble and red currant finish. Lamb chops, lamb leg, brisket, rib eye and teres major (I am a firm believer in pairing these proteins with juicy wines over big.) 12.8% alcohol, 55 cases produced. Drink now, or 2025-2037.”
Winery note “Layered and pretty, with aromas of red flowers, stacked firewood, red plum, dry earth, rosemary, mint, cantaloupe, myrrh and amaro spices. A slight wild and untamed edge is enticing in it’s nuances, and reminds me that one should not control everything in Pinot Noir. Fruits move between red and black on the palate; the wine is textured, intriguing, complex, and refreshing, with layers of supple fruit tones. Pair with wild mushrooms, porcini, hen-of-the-woods, hedgehog, chanterelles, all would be great! Rabbit, chicken, and game birds as well. 13.2% alcohol, 55 cases. Drink now, or 2024-2035.”
First Offer:
2017 Sea Smoke
Arriving Friday, September 20th:
Sea Smoke Southing Pinot Noir, Sta Rita Hills 2017 750ML ($134.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Winery Note “Southing refers to the south-facing hillside bluffs found on our estate vineyard. Each year, our goal for this wine is to create the ideal marriage of complexity and elegance. Southing is a true expression of the terroir of Sea Smoke Vineyard: seductive flavors and fine tannins complimented by cool climate acidity. The ever-changing nose of the2017 Southing exhibits baked strawberry, floral scents of rose and violet; and subtle spices. The fine tannins and minerality are enhanced by our estate vineyard’s characteristic cool climate acidity.”
The next best price is $120
Winery Note “Ten is named for the ten Pinot Noir clones found on our estate vineyard. Our most masculine wine, it is brooding and intense, with firm, mature tannins and a long, velvety finish. Ten is not for the faint-of-heart and has been known, on occasion, to convert even the most fanatic Cabernet lover. “
The next best price is $140
Keller Heavy Hitters
The recently arrived wines include the best-in-class-value Von der Fels, a (very) dry wine made exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards. This edition is sourced mostly from Kirschspiel and displays true GG character at a much, much lower pricing. If you’re looking for a ~$40 dry Riesling to age for a decade that’s going to over-deliver when you open it up, this year’s Von der Fels is a great candidate. Likewise, the RR bottling is from a volcanic section of the great Kirschspiel vineyard. Where the GG bottling pulls from limestone heavy soils which give it elegance, the RR (often done in a feinherb style) has a bit more power and texture.
We’ve also just received two unique sweeter wines from Keller—an Auslese and a BA made from the Rieslaner grape. This is a grape that always seems to excel in sweeter idioms and Klaus-Peter has made these two into masterpieces. We were only able to snag a case of half bottles of each of these beauties, so quantities are as limited as the wines are good.
In Stock Now:
Weingut Keller Rieslaner Auslese, Rheinhessen 2018 375ML ($59.95) $39 special, only 12 half-bottles available
John Gilman 93 points “The 2018 von der Fels Riesling Trocken is magnificent this year and is probably the very finest bargain in the universe of dry Rieslings in all of Germany in this vintage! The wine offers up a beautifully pure and vibrant bouquet of pink grapefruit, tart orange, chalky minerality, dried flowers, citrus peel, a dollop of wild yeasts and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, precise and impressive tensile for the vintage, with a great core, superb elegance and focus, outstanding backend mineral drive and a very long, very pure and complex finish. Great juice. 2023-2060+.”
New Wines from Vajra
Arriving Friday, September 20th:
G.D. Vajra Albe, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($44.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 93 points “This Barolo offers a more immediate approach, with lots of dark berry followed by spice, tilled earth and black truffle. The 2015 Barolo Albe pours to a medium dark color and lays out a mid-weight texture, with bright primary fruit that is expertly woven into the wine. It exposes clearly etched veins of acidity and some determinedly firm tannins. Despite the Albe’s accessible personality, I recommend that you wait a few more years before popping the cork.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Pretty, featuring rose, cherry, raspberry and mint flavors, with a touch of mineral. Supple, harmonious and elegant, offering a long finish. The aftertaste is tinged with orange peel and tobacco notes. Best from 2021 through 2036. 4,500 cases made.”
G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94+ points “The 2015 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole is a delicate and pure expression of Nebbiolo. The wine shows its naked beauty with pride, provocatively semi-dressed in lacy, floral aromas of wild rose and pressed violets. At this young age, the wine exhibits a gentle mix of fruity and floral characteristics that merge into the bouquet with intrepidness. The fruit from this vineyard within the Barolo township has maintained its freshness and crispness despite the heat of the 2015 growing season. I think it would be a lovely match for a veal piccata and cream sauce, with parsley and capers.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Enticing aromas and flavors of plum, cherry, iron and menthol are folded harmoniously into the lush texture and broad tannins of this long and vibrant red, with licorice, mineral and tobacco elements lingering. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,200 cases made.”
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “The flagship Barolo Bricco delle Viole is quite understated and gracious in 2015. Medium in body, with the persistent tannins that are so typical of this site, the 2015 is lithe, focused and full of energy. The warm vintage notwithstanding, in 2015, Vajra’s Bricco delle Viole is distinctly sinewy and tense. It will offer considerable appeal to readers who find some of the other 2015 Barolos too open and giving in their youthful stage. Kirsch, rose petal, mint and chalky notes build into a finely cut finish. Time in the glass softens some of the youthful, austere contours, but this remains a 2015 Barolo that needs time in bottle to be at its very best.”
G.D. Vajra Ravera, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($89.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2015 Barolo Ravera captures all the best the vintage has to offer. More importantly, it has that extra level of textural richness and sweetness that the Bricco delle Viole does not have, at least not today. Creamy and beautifully textured in the glass, the 2015 is a total winner. Bright red raspberry and pomegranate fruit notes are lifted, while expressive floral and blood orange overtones add brightness. The 2015 suggests that the Ravera might, in time, become the flagship wine here. Don’t miss it!”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2017 Dolcetto d’Alba Coste & Fossati is a wine of extraordinary and arresting beauty. Intense and yet also remarkably delineated, the Coste & Fossati is a terrific example of the heights Dolcetto can reach in skilled hands. Readers will find a gorgeous, beautifully layered wine endowed with tremendous energy and focus. Dark plum, graphite, smoke, menthol and licorice all build in this super-expressive and nuanced wine from Vajra. I loved it.”
Collector’s Corner:
The Best of Vin Santo
In Stock Now:
Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano, Tuscany 2000 375ML ($249.95) $179 special, 2 half-bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 97 points “When it comes to Vin Santo, nobody beats Avignonesi. The 2000 Vin Santo di Montepulciano is a wine of unlimited pleasure, decadence and opulence. This syrupy dessert wine pours into the glass in slow motion. It shows a level of richness and thickness that puts it closer to molasses or melted brown sugar in terms of consistency. The color is a deep shade of amber brown. The bouquet offers exciting tones of honey, candied fruit and marrons glacé. You also get knock out tones of Teriyaki sauce, white truffle and Indian spice that bring the wine’s inherent complexity into the stratosphere. The mouthfeel is rich, tangy and crisp. This is a work of vinous beauty.”
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2001 Vin Santo di Montepulciano (375 milliliters) is a divine and superbly delicious sweet blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto. The results are super concentrated and simmered down to a virtual reduction sauce of deliciousness. There are so many aromas to name, but some of the most evident highlights include candied orange peel, almond marzipan, caramel, toasted coffee bean, vanilla stick, mocha, dark honey and fragrant yellow rose. The mouthfeel is creamy, rich and deeply layered. I’m suggesting a slightly shorter drinking window here compared to the Occhio di Pernice. But, the truth is: I have no idea. I’m pretty sure these wines will outlive anyone of legal drinking age.”
The next best price is $229
Trending
Marc Hebrart Premier Cru Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $61.90 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “The NV Brut Premier Cru Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes is a new cuvée for Hébrart that’s well worth seeking out, derived from superior, south-facing sites in Mareuil-sur-Ay that also inform his Special Club bottling. The inaugural released, based on the 2014 vintage, is showing very well, wafting from the glass with aromas of apples, pears, tangerine, white flowers, spice and pastry cream. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, concentrated and nicely structured, with good cut and dry extract, as well as all the charm that defines the house style.”
Terry Theise Note “[+++]The facts first—It is 75% PN from Mareuil, 25% Chard also from Mareuil. Old vines, massale selection. Deg 4/2018. 60% 2014, 20% 2013, 20% 2012. It’s from his favorite parcels in Mareuil, and is intended as a tribute to its terroir. It has a truly noble PN fragrance, leading to an utter masterpiece of weightless concentration, as huge and yet as penetrable as a cumulous cloud. Mareuil is clearly great but it’s also somewhat inscrutable; it has some of the malt of Aÿ, some mirabelle confiture, an almost gingery spice and top notes of chalk. This wine has great, gossamer opulence.”
Felsina Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Felsina Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Felsina Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 375ML ($34.95) $28 special
Decanter Magazine 97 points “The south-facing Rancia vineyard reaches altitudes of 420 metres, overlooking the lower-lying vineyards of Colli Senesi. It boasts complex soils of calcareous clay layered with the chalky white limestone-like alberese and schistose galestro. This 2016 vintage is simply stunning. It’s stately yet gracious, with personality for days, leading with a sumptuous nose of smoke, exotic spice and iron-rich earth. Ripe fruit coats the mouth yet it remains buoyant and tangy as chalky tannins charge in to frame the palate. A seductive wine with an appetising, savoury edge and a long, long life ahead. Drinking Window 2023 – 2041.”
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “The 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is powerful, rich and explosive, with tremendous drive. Even so, several bottles have been quite closed. That is probably a very good sign for the long-term, but readers should not plan on touching a bottle anytime soon. A wine of vertical drive and aromatic nuance, the 2016 Rancia is super-complexed. Only with a few hours of air does it show the nuances and layers that were so evident from barrel. The 2016 is a painfully stubborn wine in the early going, but it will offer superb drinking pleasure for those who can wait.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia knocks it out of the park. Like the other new releases from Fèlsina, this pure expression of Sangiovese needs more time to evolve and improve with bottle age. But even at this young stage, you are made fully aware of the beautiful intensity and complexity of the quality fruit at its core. There is so much energy and tension here, further reinforced by the fresh acidity of the vintage. There are vibrant tones of wild cherry, raspberry and spice, followed up by white truffle and tilled earth.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “This features ripe, juicy black cherry and black currant fruit, with licorice, earth and tobacco flavors. Firm tannins frame the elements, imparting structure and complexity for the long haul. Terrific texture. Best from 2022 through 2042.”
An incredible value from the illustrious hill of Hermitage. And that’s very rare thing, indeed.
Delas Freres Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes-Marquise de la Tourette, Rhone 2015 750ML ($89.95) $59 special
Wine Spectator 95 points “This is loaded with well-defined loganberry, blackberry and boysenberry pâte de fruit flavors, flecked with anise and black tea notes and carried by a fine iron streak that lingers wonderfully. A wine of cut, purity and precision. Best from 2020 through 2035. From France.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “A blend of Syrah grapes from several lieux-dits, including Les Bessards, the 2015 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes is aged in new and second use barrels. It’s a dark, concentrated wine, meaty, rich and tannic but with a bright beam of cassis fruit that lifts it and gives it great definition and shape on the palate. Give this medium to full-bodied wine at least 5 years in the cellar and drink it over the next 15.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “While the Les Bessards gets all the attention, the 2015 Hermitage Domaine Des Tourettes isn’t far behind and is unquestionably the value play. Beef blood, cassis, blackberry liqueur and loads of crushed rock nuances all emerge from this ripe, concentrated, full-bodied Hermitage that has a classic, structured profile. It’s well worth a case purchase and will keep for two to three decades. As always, this cuvée comes from two parcels, the lower part of the Bessards lieu-dit and the Les Grandes Vignes located at the highest point on Hermitage Hill. It’s completely destemmed and sees 16 months in 30% new French oak.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Enticing hints of sweet spice, black pepper and bacon fat seduce on the nose of this rich but balanced Hermitage. Blackberry and cherry flavors are fresh and juicy but structured by firm tannins and brisk acidity. A polished wine already, it should intensify its savory, smoky complexities well through 2030.”
The average listed price is $88
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Commanderie de Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 750ML ($24.95) $19 special
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Commanderie de Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 1.5L ($51.95) $47 special
Grapelive 93 points “The famous Cotes de Provence winery, Chateau Peyrassol, is located in the hills of the Var, north of St. Tropez…and is well known for their top notch dry Rosé. This tranquil and picturesque spot is home to vineyards planted to primarily Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah used in the Rosé bottlings…The current release of the Rosé, 2018, is a beautiful vintage for this in demand wine, one of the finest I’ve tried from this estate in fact, in particular I love this Cuvee de la Commanderie, the work horse wine of the domaine. Like all of the Rosés of Peyrassol this one was made in the direct press method, with maceration and fermentation being done with cool temperatures. According to the winery and importer Rosenthal Wine Merchant, this winemaking process gives the Rosés of Peyrassol their beautiful watermelon and delicate salmon pink color. The fermentation is exceptionally long, resulting in rosés that are both lively, fresh and full-bodied and complex, as this one shows with its layers of tart cherry, the mentioned watermelon, strawberry and citrusy crisp fruits along with a steely/mineral character as well as having a wet stone, dried lavender and rosewater elements. The Chateau Peyrassol, as it has been known since 2001, is one of the longest running domaines in the region being first established in the middle of the 1200s, when it was founded by the Knights of Templar, it rests near the sea and is surrounded by a beautiful Mediterranean forest, with Eighty hectares planted to vineyards which are cultivated on the dry, rocky clay and limestone based soils….I also really like the Blanc and Rouge (made from Cabernet and Syrah) a lot, though the Rosé is certainly the most charming and delicious of the wines and they go great with and without food, though they take on a more serious tone and fill out on the palate with food, I especially enjoy them with seafood like mussels in a Mediterranean inspired spicy broth.”
Oregon
Bow & Arrow Melon de Bourgogne, Willamette Valley 2018 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Vincent Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley 2017 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
VinopolNote “This Pinot Blanc is everything we love about the grape-crisp, bright and delicate, with pretty orchard fruit. You can pair this with just about anything that you’d want to drink white wine with, from the front porch to fresh seafood to a roast chicken.”
Rhone
Domaine Bosquet des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape A la Gloire de Mon Grand-Pere, Rhone 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “I was questioning if the top cuvées were worth the money after tasting the traditional cuvée from winemaker Nicolas Boiron, then I tasted his 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape A La Gloire de Mon Grand-Père and decided that, yes indeed, the special cuvées in 2016 can certainly be worth the uptick in price. Based almost exclusively on Grenache (there’s a splash of Cinsault and Clairette) sourced from the La Gardiole lieu-dit and aged mostly in demi-muids, this heavenly beauty offers awesome notes of garrigue, toasted spices, flowers, licorice and loads of sweet Grenache fruit. Voluptuous, flamboyant, and sexy, yet also elegant and seamless, with a weightless texture, this is Grenache at its finest and is going to knock your socks off over the coming 10-15 years.”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 96 points “There are 10,000 bottles of the stunning 2016 Châteauneuf du Pape A la Gloire de Mon Grand-Père, which is good news for lovers of 100% Grenache. Drawn from a single parcel in the lieu-dit of Gardiole (mostly sandy soils), half of the fruit was destemmed. It’s full-bodied and concentrated but silky and refined, with scintillating purity of cherry and raspberry fruit, backed by crisp acids and enlivening hints of orange zest on the long, reverberating finish. It’s a terrific value that should drink well for more than a decade.”
Chateau La Rame Blanc, Bordeaux 2018 750ML ($21.95) $19 special
Importer notes “The grapes for this cuvée come from a four hectare hillside parcel of clay and limestone soil with a full southern exposure that overlooks the Garonne River and is planted to Sauvignon Blanc. The vines have an average age of 20 years (as of 2011). After a manual harvest, the grapes are fermented in temperature-controlled vats and left on the fine lees for six months prior to bottling. The overwhelming majority of this cuvée is reserved for our use in the US market (18,000 to 24,000 bottles per annum).”
Chateau Meyney, Saint-Estephe 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
James Suckling 96 points “Wild nose. Impressive, deep hue and a wealth of fresh, violet-like aromas, as well as cassis, graphite and dark cherries. The palate has a very sleek, fine, powerful core of tannins that bring a lot of depth and deliver rich dark-fruit flavor. A classic Meyney. Best since 1961! Try from 2023.”
Decanter 94 points “Rich and full, this is very St-Estèphe: round through the mid-palate, with an amazingly tasty balance of richness and freshness leading to salinity and minerality on the finish. It will need another five to eight years before being ready to drink, but it has to be one of the value picks of the vintage.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2016 Meyney is a bold, powerful wine. Tobacco, menthol, chocolate, spice and torrefaction notes all add shades of darkness. Meyney is potent and quite broad in feel, and yet everything is very nicely balanced. Although not especially subtle, Meyney delivers the goods, and then some.”
Boom! That’s the sound of Canon firing on all cylinders in ’16.
Chateau Canon, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2016 375ML ($119.95) $99 special
Half Bottle
Wine Advocate 98+ points “Composed of 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc and aged for 18 months in 70% new French barriques, the 2016 Canon is medium to deep garnet-purple in color, and—WOW—it opens with the most stunning perfume of violets, red roses and kirsch, giving way to a core of black cherry preserves, chocolate box, licorice, warm plums and Chinese five spice plus an earthy waft of underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely filled with expressive, perfumed black berry layers accented by lively red fruits and exotic spices, supported by impressively fine-grained tannins and fantastic tension, finishing very long with jaw-dropping energy. Tasted three times, I had one opportunity to taste the 2015 and 2016 Canon side by side. While I love the bold, rich, seductive nature of the 2015, this 2016 kicks it up a notch in terms of polish, precision, depth and persistence. Most notably, the superbly ripe, exquisitely fine-grained tannins on this 2016 bring to the table a whole other level of sophistication. Bravo!”
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “This wine is impressive both from its structure and its fruit, one of the stars of the vintage in Saint-Émilion. It has great weight, concentration as well as style and aging potential. The ripe fruit shines through the structure, promising an elegant maturity. Drink from 2025.”
Neal Martin-Vinous 97 points “The 2016 Canon has the unenviable task of following the astonishing 2015, and it does a damn good job, even if it doesn’t reach the same ethereal heights. There is a pleasing strictness and poise on the nose; this is less immediate than the 2015, yet intellectual, a Canon that expresses its terroir rather than tons of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, a smooth texture and a slightly savory but persistent finish, which feels a little plusher than the 2015, implying that this might drink a little earlier. But there is unquestionably immense breeding locked into this rejuvenated Saint-Émilion, which is now firmly ensconced among the top-flight Right Banks.”
James Suckling 97 points “Complex aromas of blackberries, iodine, oyster shell and wet earth. Ever so perfumed. Full-bodied, yet reserved and tight with very silky tannins that are energized and minerally. Takes off at the end. The freshness lifts it. Try after 2024.”
Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol 2016 750ML ($399.95) $349 special
Neal Martin-Vinous 100 points “The 2016 Vieux Château Certan is the first vintage to be entirely bottled by the estate’s own bottling machine (just in case that ever comes up in a wine quiz). Alexandre Thienpont mentioned that he assiduously left out the stressed vines, and he places this above his more hedonistic 2015. The wine takes a few minutes to open in the glass, but boy, is it worth the wait: it reveals pixelated red fruit (crushed strawberry and raspberry) and crushed stone, plus a hint of graphite emanating from the Cabernets. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly chalky tannin that frames pure black and red fruit infused with graphite and almost flint-like notes. This is one of the most mineral-driven VCCs that I have encountered in over 20 years, with dizzying precision on the finish. A very intellectual Pomerol, in the realm of the profound.”
Wine Advocate 100 points “The 2016 Vieux Château Certan is blended of 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet-purple in color, it leaps from the glass with pristine, vivid notions of candied violets, chocolate-covered cherries, blackberry compote and mulberries with fragrant touches of raspberry leaves, crushed rocks, licorice, cumin seed and yeast extract plus a waft of red roses. Medium to full-bodied and beautifully elegant, the palate builds from a quiet intensity to an incredibly well-sustained aria of crunchy red and black cherries notes plus tons of floral undertones, framed by exquisitely soft yet firm tannins and seamless freshness, finishing very long with lingering mineral and floral sparks. How does this 2016 compare to the also amazing 2015 vintage? Stylistically they are very different, as my notes on each should convey, but beyond this I am struck by the incredible harmony and seamlessness of the 2016 along with its amazing depth and energy this year. Bravo!”
Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Gorges, Loire 2015 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Gorges, Loire 2015 1.5L ($66.95) $51.90 special, only 6 magnums available
David Schildknecht-Vinous 91-92 points “More than a year ahead of bottling, this already delivers intriguing complexity. Fascinating stony, alkaline and iodine-like notes as well as mouthwatering salinity play against a background of infectiously juicy apple and lime. A combination of levity and energy leads to an exhilarating, refreshingly sustained finish. Here is another indication that the Pépière team has transcended the usual limits of the 2015 vintage.”
The average price nationally is $26
Domaine de la Pepiere Chateau Thebaud Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos des Morines, Loire 2015 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Domaine de la Pepiere Chateau Thebaud Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos des Morines, Loire 2015 1.5L ($66.95) $51.90 special, only 6 magnums available
David Schildknecht-Vinous 92-93 points “Last tasted in late July 2016 – more than a year ahead of its anticipated bottling – this delivers an unusually rich, polished palate impression while retaining vivacity and refreshment thanks to juicy ripe pear and fresh lime. The mineral and animal dimensions – anticipated on the nose – suggest sea breeze and urchin roe, yielding a savor that positively milks the salivary glands. This is going to be fascinating to follow and likely to stand among the high points for Muscadet of its vintage.”
Malibran ‘Sottoriva’ Col Fondo Frizzante Colli Trevigiani IGT, Veneto NV 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Case-6 Malibran ‘Sottoriva’ Col Fondo Frizzante Colli Trevigiani IGT, Veneto NV 750ML ($99.95) $79 special (that’s only $13.17/bottle!)
Decanter 90 points “Hailing from a cool site in the usually warm zone of Susegana, Credamora refers to the dark black clay. Redolent of tangy lemon meringue pie and pleasantly bitter almond. Refreshing. No added sulphites.”
Vigneti Massa Terra Piccolo Derthona Timorasso, Piedmont 2017 750ML ($21.95) $19.90 special
Wine Enthusiast note “Timorasso [is] one the most exciting wines coming out of Italy right now. Made with the grape of the same name, Timorasso boasts more depth, body and complexity than many Italian whites. It’s definitely not your classic light-bodied white to sip as an aperitivo or to knock back with pizza. Hailing from Piedmont… Timorasso is grown in an obscure corner of what is Italy’s most celebrated wine region. And Timorasso—nearly extinct until two decades ago—owes its modern-day existence and cult status to one man: Walter Massa… When young, Vigneti Massa’s full-bodied Timorasso wines boast alluring floral scents, creamy apricot and apple flavors and bright acidity. As they age, they gain in mineral complexity and boast dried fruit, almond and honeyed notes seamlessly balanced with fresh acidity. I’ve tasted numerous vintages over the years, and the wines evolve beautifully for at least fifteen years. As the vines get older, these superb whites may increase their aging potential.” [No reviews available for the 2017]
Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Case-6 Marchesi Antinori Pian delle Vigne Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($189.95) $144 special (that’s only $24/bottle!)
James Suckling 91 points “Shows good intensity on the nose and no shortage of fruitiness in the form of glazed cherries. Dried herbs and some ash, too. Full-bodied and chewy with a streak of refreshing acidity and bright red fruit. Drink now.”
James Suckling 94 points “Extremely floral and perfumed with blue fruit, roses, violets and other flowers. Full-bodied and very fine with beautiful depth and polish. Goes on for minutes. From biodynamically grown grapes and Demeter certified. Drink now or hold.”
Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mosel 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mosel 2017 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Stuart Pigott-JamesSuckling 96 points “Be prepared to be amazed by what the tiny Ruwer sub-region of the Mosel can do. Enormous and complex herbs and spices on a medium body that’s supported by plenty of already well integrated yeasty notes and vibrant acidity that’s driving this thoroughbred racehorse along at breakneck speed. Drink or hold.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “This gorgeous dry Riesling has an exotic character, with elderflower and tropical fruit notes allied to passion fruit flavors that are accented by grapefruit, vanilla, and spice and mineral elements, which display depth and complexity, supported by the supple texture and vibrant acidity. Best from 2021 through 2034.”
Stuart Pigott-JamesSuckling 94 points “Quite funky from the wild ferment, but behind that, there is a very expressive wine with great fruit. The very racy acidity makes the finish really uplifting. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott-JamesSuckling 93 points “A classic dry riesling from the Ruwer! Light in alcohol but deep and complex with blade-runner clarity at the very long and mineral finish. Drink or hold.”
Korrell: A German Riesling Star
Korrell is a rising star Nahe producer. The Weingut goes back to 1832, but it’s only with young Martin taking over the cellar that the family has attained. Their name has been ringing in insider circles for several years now, but their “Von Den Grossen Lagen” just won at the Riesling Cup and they’re officially blowing up now.
The best vineyard that Korrell owns (and the backbone for all their Rieslings) is a monopol site called, appropriately, “Paradis.” Paradis is a limestone-heavy site (a rarity, much like Keller’s Kirschspiel GG), with shallow soils and privileged exposition—in short, everything you could ask of a Riesling vineyard, especially to produce dry wines. The revitalization of the site, combined with Martin’s work in the cellar, has vaulted Korrell into the top tier of producers both in the Nahe and across Germany. These are wines that any dry Riesling lover needs to have in their cellar and we’re proud to be the first in the US to offer these wines.
Over the last two decades, the Nahe has been the vanguard region in Germany, with producers like Dönnhoff, Schäfer-Frölich, and Diel producing some of the top wines in Germany, year and out. Situated between the chilly Mosel and the sun-drenched Rhine, Nahe wines combine everything we love about German Riesling. Korrell have established themselves as top producer in the region and we’re beyond thrilled that we can add these wines to our collection—and your cellars.
Newly Arrived
Weingut Korrell Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Weingut Korrell Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special
Weingut Korrell Kreuznacher Paradies Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 3L ($199.95) $179 special
Stuart Pigott-JamesSuckling 94 points “Very clean and fresh, but behind the effusive, fruit-salad character that makes this so seductive, there is a lot of structure and the finish keeps pumping out the fruit and chalky minerality. Drink or hold.”
Grapelive 94 points “The radiant and graceful Korrell Paradies Trocken leads with expressive pure apple tones. [It] impresses for its elegance and subtle character. It’s a wine of great poise and delicacy, especially admirable for such a young Riesling. The monopole estate vineyard, Paradies, is the oldest single site Korrell has and is the flagship wine from winemaker Martin Korrell. It comes from his family’s vines that are set on limestone and clay soils in Bad Kreuznach area of the Nahe region. The Paradies Riesling Trocken is a gorgeous white of depth and precise winemaking that takes advantage of this unique site in the Nahe. This wine is the heart and soul of Korrell and it is product of its unique climat,or terroir. It sees more sunshine and the limestone allows for serious concentration, while retaining acidity, though there is always great attention paid to pick dates to finely tune this signature bottling to place and vintage. Korrell mixes some traditional stainless fermentations with some native yeast and barrel ferments to craft his wines. The Paradies shows a beautiful leesy finesse that reminds me a bit of the Von Winning GG’s, with a long time on the lees adding a beautiful glycerin density to this gorgeous dry Riesling. Coming off Korrel’s incredible Riesling Cup win for his Von den Grossen Lagen (Grand Crus) Riesling Trocken, I was absolutely thrilled to be able to try this wine, and found this particular wine just as intriguing. Martin focuses on preserving heightened aromatics and crisp mineral tones, while allowing the mouth feel and depth to shine through. It is an amazing accomplishment to get it all right, and Korrell deserves his time in the limelight. This is complex and glorious stuff. Layers of green apple, peach, mixed fresh citrus and melon fruits are lifted by liquid rock, steely mineral and faint perfume of white flowers along with a silkiness of mouth feel. While still delightfully crisp, [this delivers] an exciting energy filled performance. This is a winery that about to break out and join some elite company, in fact they are riding high after winning, as mentioned, the famous Riesling Cup award with their unique multi (Grand) cru Von den Grossen Lagen Trocken Riesling. This wine is just extra proof there is real quality here! The lightly golden hued and generously textured Paradies will age well. It’s full of charm, class and potential. Best to let this one have another 3 to 5 years, though it certainly is delicious right now.”
Stuart Pigott-JamesSuckling 94 points “What a beautiful nose of leaves and white flowers, dripping after rain. With aeration, peach, nectarine and mandarin-orange notes emerge. Concentrated, racy and very polished, this is a stunning dry riesling with a long, mineral finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “This fruity yet dry Riesling is filled with flavors of currant and gooseberry, while juicy, orangelike acidity cuts through, carrying freshness and providing balance. The complex finish is long and inviting. This nicely sculpted white is ready to drink now, but will only get better with age. Drink now through 2027. 1,500 cases made.”
Stuart Pigott-JamesSuckling 91 points “Brimming with tart peach, lemon and apples plus a hint of vanilla this has so much appeal on the nose. The juicy palate ends with a wave of herbal freshness that fulfills all the promise of the nose. 70% from the Paradies top site, i.e. from paradise! Drink now. Screw cap.”
2016 Dagueneau
2016 was an unqualified success in the Loire–a vintage that combines the classicism of ’14 with a hint of ’15’s richness. For the Didier Dagueneau estate (now helmed by son Louis-Benjamin), these are some of the best wines they’ve produced, which is a testament to how Louis-Benjamin has grown into his role as winemaker after his father’s death. These wines still have the richness and texture that made them famous, but with a laser-beam of minerality and cut that makes the wines truly memorable. The Silex is especially noteworthy this year, a monument to Sauvignon Blanc grown on flint.
Arriving Friday, September 20th:
Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly, Loire 2016 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Pur Sang, Loire 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Silex, Loire 2016 750ML ($159.95) $125 pre-arrival special
Thank you for reading!