Monday Newsletter 11-16-20

In This Newsletter:

New Week – New Arrivals

New Champagne Reviews from John Gilman
Chartogne-Taillet, Gimonnet & more!


Trending


New Week – New Arrivals

Oregon

The Eyrie Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2017 750ML ($36.95) $33 special
James Suckling 94 points
“A blend of all five Eyrie sites, this gives a gauge on the 2017 harvest here, as one that delivered fresh and complex style. Red-cherry, raspberry, blueberry and leafy aromas with gently earthy and spicy tones in equal measure. The palate has a very smooth core of fleshy red-cherry flavors and carries a velvety tannin texture long and fresh. Seriously complex pinot. Drink or hold.”
Note: the winery has dramatically redesigned the label in the 2017 vintage.

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

We’re smitten with the wines from Trathen Hall, produced by the former winemaker at Shea Wine Cellars, Blair Trathen, and Arabella Hall, whose winemaking experience includes Beaux Freres, Archery Summit, and Scott Paul Wines. This is a team to watch.

Trathen Hall Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2017 750ML ($47.95) $44 special
Josh Raynolds 94 points
“Deep crimson. Highly perfumed, spice-accented cherry and raspberry aromas are complicated by floral, incense and succulent herb nuances. Sappy, appealingly sweet and focused, showing impressive tension to the juicy, spice- and mineral-laced red and blue fruit flavors, which stretch out slowly as the wine opens up. Conveys a suave blend of depth and vivacity and closes on a gently tannic note, leaving emphatic spice and floral notes behind. 40% whole clusters and all used oak.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Love Oregon Pinots? We carry 117 in stock now.
Shop the full selection on our web store!

Washington

Luke Cabernet Sauvignon Wahluke Slope 2018 750ML ($24.95) $19 special
Winery note
“LUKE Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromas dominated by marionberry and dark chocolate, accented by hints of mint and molasses. Supple, focused and expressive, layering coffee-accented blackberry and currant flavors with polished tannins and hints of cedar and smoke. Wahluke Slope AVA, Columbia Valley. Vineyards: Weinbau, Ravenscliff, Stonetree, Rosebud, Clifton Hill  Varietals: 96% Cabernet Sauvignon 3% Petit Verdot 1% Malbec.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $24

Luke Merlot, Wahluke Slope 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19 special
Wine Enthusiast 91 points
“Intoxicating aromas of espresso, high-cacao chocolate, green pepper, barrel spice, raspberry and herbs lead to focused, fresh fruit flavors that coat the palate. There’s a whole lot of acidity and firm tannin structure surrounding them, needing some time to settle in. It’s a serious wine to find at this price. Give it a brief decant.”
James Suckling 91 points “A big, rich red with soft, round tannins and lots of ripe fruit and walnut and chocolate undertones. Full and flavorful. 75% merlot, 23% cabernet sauvignon, 1% malbec and 1% petit verdot. Drink now.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!
The average price nationally is $21


California

Arnot-Roberts has been one of the vanguard producers of the “New California” movement, making wines that deserve to be paid attention to as some of the best in the United States.  Started by childhood friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts in 2001, they’ve quickly established themselves as some of the best producers of restrained, elegant California wines.  They’ve garnered well-deserved awards and notice from numerous publications and a dedicated following. 

Arnot-Roberts Montecillo Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma Valley 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special
Antonio Galloni 95+ points
“A captivating wine, the 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Montecillo Vineyard shows just how magical this Sonoma site is. A whole range of floral, savory and earthy notes gives the Montecillo that trademark aromatic profile that is such a signature. Big tannins add energy as well as shape to a classically built Cabernet that delivers the goods, and then some. What a wine!”

Arnot-Roberts Gamay Noir, El Dorado 2019 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
No review for the current vintage. Review for the 2018 provided for reference.
Decanter 92 points
“A blend of two high-elevation sites in the Sierra Foothills: Barsotti Vineyard (795m) and Witters Vineyard (1,005m). Wild, rustic nose of red plums, pepper and dried flowers then svelte palate that is broad and subtly tannic on the finish. These mountainous sites bring a sturdy, brambly quality to what is an often underrated variety. Singular and delicious.”

Arnot-Roberts Trousseau, Clear Lake 2019 750ML ($39.95) $36 special
No review for the current vintage. Review for the 2018 provided for reference.
Decanter 93 points
“The Trousseau for this vintage mainly comes from the Clear Lake AVA, with smaller portions from Fort Ross-Seaview and Green Valley. It’s fermented whole cluster, basket-pressed and aged in neutral barriques for eight months. Aromas of dried fruit, brown sugar and rust lead to a fine-grained, weightless palate of golden raisins, white pepper and cranberry skins. A poised, rustic and beautiful example of a variety gaining ground in California, in large part due to Arnot-Roberts.”


France

The hottest in-the-know Champagne importer in Oregon has worked for almost a decade to bring this wine to his state. We’re excited to be able to share this rare gem with you.

Emmanuel Brochet Le Mont Benoit Premier Cru Extra Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($119.95) $89 special
Peter Liem note
“Brochet’s champagnes are sleek and finely-poised, showing a vinosity and ripeness derived from viticulture while maintaining a delicate freshness and balanced weight. They are marked by a distinctive minerality, one influenced by chalk yet somehow broader and earthier, more akin to the minerality found in the wines of Jérôme Prévost or Aubry to the west, or even Chartogne-Taillet to the north, rather than the overtly incisive chalkiness of the eastern Montagne de Reims. The main cuvée of the estate is Le Mont Benoit, named for the parcel in which it is grown. It’s a blend of all three varieties, although the proportions can change considerably from one year to the next, depending on the conditions of the vintage. A portion of the blend is kept as reserve wine, and each release is generally composed of two vintages, incorporating a small portion of the previous year’s blend. While most of the wines for Le Mont Benoit go through malolactic, some of the non-malo wines that aren’t used for the vintage blends are also included in this cuvée.”

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Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier Clos de la Marechale Blanc, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($149.95) $119 special
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92 points
“Pale, gold-tinged yellow. Very ripe but vibrant aromas of stone fruits, linden tea and minerals, complicated by a leesy nuance. At once rich and lively on the palate, showing a honeyed ripeness leavened by sappy extract–and higher acidity than the 2016. This slightly phenolic wine is built for a slow evolution in bottle. Frederic Mugnier told me that he grafted over some Pinot Noir to Chardonnay in 2004 and 2007 because he was so impressed by the white wine that was made from this site in 1943.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $154


Italy

“Year after year, Vie di Romans makes some of my favorite Italian Chardonnays… Gianfranco Gallo’s Vie di Romans is one of the most accomplished, quality-minded estates in Italy. I am always impressed by their offerings” –Monica Larner, Wine Advocate

Vie di Romans Vieris Sauvignon Friuli Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Case-12 Vie di Romans Vieris Sauvignon Friuli Isonzo, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2017 750ML ($399.95) $349 special (that’s only $29.08/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
James Suckling 95 points
“Extremely fresh and intense with waxy and lemony character, as well as candied apples. Full body. Lots of fruit and flavor. Layered and powerful. Excellent depth and flavor intensity. Drink now.”

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Borgogno is one of the most distinguished names in Piedmont. The wines are made in a traditional fashion, but with more attention to detail, care, and better farming. What has resulted from all of this hard work is some of the region’s most incredible and age-worthy wines.  Timorasso is a native white variety that has the potential to become one of the world’s classic cellar-worthy whites. Don’t fret if you’ve never heard of Timorasso, it nearly went extinct during the 20th century. But it has since been revived and is developing a cult-like following in Piedmont and beyond. 

Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Derthona Timorasso Colli Tortonesi, Piedmont 2018 750ML ($69.95) $54.50 special
Grapelive 94 point
“A few years ago, Walter Massa of Vigneti Massa almost single handedly brought the rare Timorasso grape back from extinction and now it is one of the hottest white wines made in the Piedmonte region. We are seeing many great producers jumping on the bandwagon, including the famed Vietti and this beautiful expression by the legendary Barolo maker Borgogno. Tasted at Slow Wine earlier this year, the 2018 Borgogno Derthona DOC should be arriving to the United States soon, though you’ll have to really work hard to get your hands on it as it is extremely limited, but you’ll be greatly rewarded for your hard work and search if you get your hands on it. Borgogno’s Timorasso from organic vines is lightly floral, medium bodied with a lovely texture and fine minerality. It delivers a polished and lively performance highlighting the grape’s best qualities with layers of peach, citrus and quince fruits, leesy notes, white flowers and an array of herb and spices along with a nice saline and wet stone element. Derthona is the ancient name for Tortona, the town in southeast Piemonte, hence the appellation Colli Tortonesi (Tortona Hills) name. The Timorasso is widely believed to be one of the longest-aging white varieties in Italy, with many of the producers saying it takes a few years to get itself together in the bottle, adding a depth of flavor and making more of a palate impact with honeyed notes. It deserves serious attention, going well with a variety of foods including poultry, pork and fatty fish and decedent shellfish, even lobster or crab dishes. The Borgogno Timorasso doesn’t come cheap compared to other examples, like the Massa, which I also recommend trying, but it is a gorgeous white wine that is joyous rarity, that will be great addition to the cellar or a special occasion. The Borgogno Dertona DOC comes from the Monleale, [an area of] mostly hillsides around Tortona set on classic clay and limestone soils with good ripening coming from the great southeast and southwest exposures. [The terroir makes] for a more full bodied version, in some ways like the dry rich Alsatian Rieslings, but with a bit more softness and opulence, like Burgundy, especially when allowed to age. This 2018… is very refined and has remarkable clarity with a delicate light pale color and subtle acidity, which is very rounded. Borgogno, also known as “Giacomo Borgogno & Figli” which was founded back in 1761 by Bartolomeo Borgogno, was one of the very first elite Barolo producers and has an amazing track record for great wines, with their Nebbiolo bottlings being some of the most desirable wines in Italy. The Farinetti family acquired this historic winery in 2008, but is firmly committed to quality and the estate’s traditions… The 2015 marked the first vintage of their Timorasso white after the purchase of vineyard sites and the conversion to all organic practices. Borgogno also brought back the use of concrete for fermentations to give an extra element of classic and soulful expression to the wines throughout the range…”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Vigneti Massa Terra Piccolo Derthona Timorasso, Piedmont 2018 750ML ($21.95) $19.90 special
“The 2018 Piccolo Derthona is a gorgeous introduction to these distinctive whites. Lemon oil, sage, almond, mint and dried flowers are finely knit in this delicious, alluring white from Massa. This pretty, inviting white will drink well over the next few years.” -Antonio Galloni

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Brovia Barolo DOCG, Piedmont 2016 750ML ($89.95) $59 special
James Suckling 94 points
“Walnuts, berries, tar and hints of smoke on the nose. It’s full-bodied with chewy tannins and a dusty finish. Chewy at the end. Drink after 2023.”
Neal Rosenthal note “Always a stunning value and an excellent encapsulation of the Brovia house style, their Barolo “normale” is comprised 60% of a portion of their holdings in Brea (the oldest and best-exposed vines are bottled separately as “Ca’Mia”—see below) and 40% of the younger vines of their three crus in Castiglione Falletto. One feels both the spicy, boisterous generosity of Serralunga d’Alba and the mineral thrust of Castiglione Falletto in this wine, but this 2016 is notable for its finesse. The contemplative nose evokes a sense of calm stillness, presenting its individual components with clarity and precision; the palate is dynamic in its interplay of pert acidity and fresh, finely wrought tannins.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!
The average price nationally is $62






New Champagne Reviews from John Gilman

Doyard, Gimonnet, Hebrart & Chartogne-Taillet

Doyard

ETA November

Doyard is a Cotes de Blancs producer, through and through.  Based in Vertus, they specialize in Chardonnay based Champagne from their villages and a few neighboring towns—all of which are some of the best places to grow the grape in the world.  With holdings in Avize, Mesnil and Cremant, as well as Vertus, their wines have the chalkiness and precision that we always look for in Cotes de Blancs Champagne.

Doyard puts a bit of a twist on the stereotype, though, and uses a combination of extended lees aging plus barrels for fermentation to add richness and texture to their steely base material (that rarely undergoes malo).  The results are captivating and this collection is some of the most exciting in Champagne.  

Doyard ‘Revolution’ Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Non-Dose, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 92 points
“The current release of Champagne Doyard’s Révolution Brut Nature is from the fine base year of 2012, with fifty percent of the blend made up of reserve wines from 2011 and 2010. Half of the vins clairs are raised in older Burgundy casks and half in stainless steel, with only fifteen percent of the blend undergoing malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged fully seven years sur latte prior to disgorgement. It offers up an excellent bouquet of apple, pear, fresh-baked bread, hazelnut, chalky minerality and a discreetly smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, fullbodied, focused and complex, with a fine core, good mineral drive, elegant mousse and a long, beautifully-balanced finish. This is my idea of first class non-dosé, as the wine has been given plenty of time aging in the cellars to allow the acidity to back off and the wine to drink with generosity today, rather than some of the younger non-dosé bottlings out there that are really structured for a sword swallower when they are first released. This is superb. 2020-2035+.”

Doyard Clos de l’Abbaye Premier Cru Extra Brut, Champagne 2014 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 94 points
“The Clos de l’Abbaye is an actual walled-in vineyard in Vertus, just behind the Doyards’ winery. The chardonnay vines here are all at least sixty years of age and are farmed biodynamically. The vins clairs are barrel-fermented and aged in cask, do not go through malolactic fermentation and aged for four-plus years sur latte prior to disgorgement and finished with a dosage of two grams per liter. The 2014 Clos de l’Abbaye offers up a superb bouquet of pear, fresh almond, limestone minerality, incipient notes of pastry cream, just a whisper of buttery oak and a topnote of apple blossoms. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and beautifully balanced, with a fine core, great mineral drive and grip, zesty acids, very refined mousse and a long, extremely refined finish that closes still with a bit of buttery oak influence. The touch of oak influence will eventually be subsumed in the other elements of the wine with further bottle age, but it is hardly obtrusive, for the intrepid who might like to enjoy a bottle of this excellent Blanc de Blancs on the early side! 2020-2050+.”

Doyard Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Brut Rose, Champagne 2015 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 93 points
“The 2015 Doyard Oiel de Perdrix Extra Brut Millésime is composed from a cépages of seventy-five percent pinot noir and twenty-five percent chardonnay, with the pinot noir hailing from Aÿ and the chardonnay from Avize. The vins clairs do not go through malolactic and are given some extended aging in old Burgundy casks prior to bottling up for secondary fermentation in September of 2016. The wine was aged thirty-six months sur latte and disgorged in September of 2019, with a finishing dosage of three grams per liter. It is quite pale in color and offers up a beautiful bouquet of white cherry, peach, rye bread, chalky soil tones, dried flowers, discreet spice tones and just a whisper of oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and complex, with fine mid-palate depth and soil signature, bright acids, frothy mousse and a long, vibrant finish. This is a beautiful wine that is absolutely built for the table! 2020-2040+.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Pierre Gimonnet

ETA November

The Gimonnet wines are pure, classical Blanc de Blancs Champagne.  Didier Gimonnet’s devotion to cool, minerally Champange made from Chardonnay borders on monastic.  At their best, Gimonnet seems to have a quiet resonance, like a beautiful bell struck in a quiet stone hallway.  They draw you in, not with bombast or noise, but with a clear directness and purity of tone.  Even the most basic of Gimonnet’s cuvees have such elements, and that pursuit of beauty and elegance makes them a perpetually top grower in Champagne.

The estate has been on a real roll over the last few years, keeping overall production unchanged but bottling a greater number of wines.  The fractalization of their lineup has seemed to give each individual wine a greater identity and stronger personality, resulting in one of the most compelling sets of Blanc de Blancs in Champagne.  Even the basic NV bottling has greater purity and poise than it used to—and it’s always been one of the best values in Champagne.  We buy as much of these as we can and this year is no exception—it’s a can’t miss producer.

“Emphasizing old vines, low yields and ripe grapes, these Champagnes [from Pierre Gimonnet] are site-driven wines…” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuis Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $45 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 90+ points
“The current offering of the Gimonnet Cuis Premier Cru non-vintage Blanc de Blancs is from the base year of 2016, with thirty percent of the cuvée made up reserve wines from the vintages of 2012 through 2015. The wine spent nearly three years aging sur latte prior to disgorgement in December of 2019, with a finishing dosage of six grams per liter. It offers up a very expressive bouquet of apple, pear, hazelnut, chalky soil tones and a topnote of brioche. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and focused, with a fine core of fruit, good mineral drive and bounce, slightly large bubbles and a long, complex and snappy finish. This is still a young wine and it will really hit its stride with two or three more years in the cellar, though it is already quite tasty. 2020-2040.”

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Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Oger Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 91 points
“The current release of the Oger Grand Cru bottling from the Gimmonet family is from the base year of 2016 and includes reserve wines in the blend from the previous three vintages. The vins clairs go through full malo, are aged in stainless steel and the wine was disgorged in January of 2019 with a finishing dosage of six grams per liter. It offers up a deep and complex nose of pear, apple, plenty of smokiness, a fine base of limestone minerality and a touch of brioche. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and nascently complex, with a good core, fine mineral drive, pinpoint bubbles and a long, well-balanced and still fairly youthful finish. This has broader shoulders and more mid-palate depth than the Cuis Premier Cru bottling above and really deserves a bit more bottle age to fully blossom. Good juice. 2022-2045.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $70

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Oenophile Premier Cru Brut Nature, Champagne 2012 750ML ($99.95) $74 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 92+ points
“The 2012 Pierre Gimmonet et Fils “Cuvée Oenophile” Brut Nature is composed entirely of chardonnay from the villages of Oger, Cramant, Avize and Cuis. The vins clairs are fermented in stainless steel and go through full malo. The 2012 version and was disgorged in October of 2019, after six and a half years aging sur latte. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a refined bouquet of pear, golden delicious apple, almond, a fine base of chalky minerality, fresh-baked bread and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a fine core, lovely balance and grip, frothy mousse and a long, classy finish. The combination of the ripeness of the 2012 vintage’s fruit and fully six and a half years aging prior to disgorgement allows this wine to drink beautifully, without any dosage. Fine, fine juice. 2020-2040.”

Marc Hebrart

ETA November

“an utter masterpiece of weightless concentration, as huge and yet as penetrable as a cumulous cloud.” – Terry Theise

Marc Hebrart wines have been on a stealthy climb up the ladder of producers to know. The house style has always emphasized balance over power, and while there is plenty of depth to his bottlings they’re always drinkable and delightful. Peter Liem writes, “Hébrart’s wines have a broad appeal: if you like to think about your wines, they’re intellectually engaging enough to satisfy you; on the other hand, if you’re just looking to drink, they’re simply delicious. The wines are full and generous without being weighty, complex and soil-driven without being demanding. Overall, the entire range is of consistently high quality, and represents excellent value for the money.”

Marc Hebrart Cuvee de Reserve Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($54.95) $45 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 91 points
“The Marc Hébrart “Cuvée de Réserve” non-vintage Brut now in the market is from base year 2017, though this is only forty-five percent of the blend this year. It also includes fifteen percent 2016 juice, ten percent 2015 and fully thirty percent 2014. The blend this year works out to eighty-two percent pinot noir and eighteen percent chardonnay, with the vins clairs raised entirely in stainless steel, going through full malo and aging about twenty months on its fine lees prior to disgorgement in October of 2019, with a finishing dosage of eight grams per liter. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant blend of apple, a touch of almond, fresh-baked bread, a fine base of soil tones and gentle smokiness in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and nicely balanced, with a good core and mineral undertow, pinpoint bubbles and a long, zesty and complex finish. This is very tasty, with the significant percentage of reserve wines in the blend really adding complexity. 2020-2035.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!

Marc Hebrart Cuvee Rose Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
John Gilman 90+ points
“The new release of the Jean-Paul Hébrart’s non-vintage Brut Rosé is comprised of a cépages of sixty percent chardonnay and forty percent pinot noir, with just over six percent of the pinot being still red wine. The wine is from the base year of 2017, with reserve wines included from 2016. The vins clairs go through malo and the wine was disgorged in August of 2019, after eighteen months aging on its fine lees; the finishing dosage was 6.5 grams. The wine is a very pale salmon color and offers up a very pretty bouquet of white cherries, nectarine, chalky soil tones, warm biscuits, just a hint of caraway seed and a gentle topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and zesty, with a good core, frothy mousse, bright acids and a long, complex and nicely balanced finish. This is still a young wine, but so well balanced that it is quite drinkable right out of the blocks; it should age quite gracefully as well and will be more complex with some time in the cellar. 2020-2035.”

Marc Hebrart Special Club Brut Millesime, Champagne 2015 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available!
John Gilman 92+ points
“The 2015 Champagne Marc Hébrart “Spécial Club” Brut Millésime is comprised of a blend of sixty-one percent pinot noir and thirty-nine percent chardonnay. The vins clairs are fermented in stainless steel and go through full malo. The wine was aged for just over three years sur latte, disgorged in July of 2019 and finished with a dosage of six grams per liter. It offers up a fine nose of apple, white peach, warm bread, chalky soil tones, dried flowers and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and wide open in personality, with good depth at the core, frothy mousse and a long, complex and very tasty finish. Good juice. 2020-2045.”

Marc Hebrart ‘Rive Gauche Rive Droite’ Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne 2013 750ML ($149.95) $125 special, 20 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 92 points
“The 2013 “Rive Gauche-Rive Droit” Brut Millésime from Jean-Paul Hébrart is a fiftyfifty blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, with all of the grapes hailing from grand cru vineyards. The pinot noir comes from Aÿ and the chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs villages of Oiry, Avize and Chouilly. The vins clairs are barrel-fermented for this cuvée and aged in cask prior to bottling up for the secondary fermentation. The wine spent five years aging sur latte and was disgorged in April of 2019 and finished with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter. The wine offers up a superb bouquet of white peach, apple, a fine base of soil, fresh-baked bread, a touch of oak influence and a gently smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and very elegant in profile, with a fine core of fruit, impressive mineral drive and grip, refined mousse and a long, zesty and complex finish. This is still youthful, but is so impeccably balanced that it is already very easy to drink- though it is bound to further improve with cellaring. Fine juice. 2020-2045.”

Chartogne-Taillet

Chartogne-Taillet is widely recognized as a top tier Champagne grower—their focus on single vineyard, old vine bottlings produces wine that has depth and soul that’s matched by only a very few in the region.  

Chartogne-Taillet Les Couarres Extra Brut, Champagne 2015 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special, ETA November
John Gilman 92+ points
“Alexandre Chartogne’s 2015 Les Couarres is composed entirely of pinot noir. He barrel ferments the vins clairs for this wine and gave them a bit of extra aging in the cellar prior to bottling them up for secondary fermentation in July of 2016. It aged four years sur latte prior to disgorgement in June of 2020 and finished with a dosage of “approximately” six grams per liter. The wine delivers a superb bouquet of apple, white peach, a touch of hazelnut, fresh-baked bread, a fine base of soil tones and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and complex, with a bit of oak influence showing up on the backend, a fine core, lovely soil signature, refined mousse and a long, classy finish. This is certainly quite drinkable today, but the bit of palate oakiness it shows today might be a good reason to give it a few years in the cellar, just to allow this element to integrate as well on the palate as it already has on the nose. 2023-2055.”

Chartogne-Taillet Cuvee Sainte Anne Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($51.95) $44 pre-arrival special, ETA January 2021
John Gilman 90+ points
“The current release of Alexandre Chartogne’s Cuvée Ste. Anne non-vintage Brut is from the base year of 2017. The vins clairs were raised in a combination of both stainless steel and oak and the wine was not bottled up for secondary fermentation until July of 2018. The cépages is its customary blend of nearly equal parts of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier and the wine was disgorged in February of 2020, with a finishing dosage of just over five grams per liter. The wine offers up a vibrant bouquet of apple, white peach, a fine base of soil tones, brioche, gentle smokiness and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, focused and complex, with a good core, elegant bubbles, fine balance and grip and a long, zesty and quite classy finish. This seems a touch longer on the backend to me than the last couple of iterations of this bottling that I have tasted and is first class, non-vintage Brut. But, this is still a fairly young wine and I would be inclined to give it some bottle age to let it start to blossom properly. 2022-2040.”

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Trending

Domaine Comte Abbatucci Ajaccio Faustine Blanc, Corsica 2017 750ML ($49.95) $29 special
Case-12 Domaine Comte Abbatucci Ajaccio Faustine Blanc, Corsica 2017 2017 750ML ($599.95) $319 special (that’s only $26.58/bottle!)
Importer Note
“Summing up Jean-Charles Abbatucci’s contagious energy in just a few lines is virtually impossible. The best way to experience it is to stand in his vineyards in central Corsica and feel it radiate through your body from the ground up. Luckily, that energy finds its way into every bottle he makes, and this gentle, breezy white from old-vine Vermentinu delivers it without compromise each sip is like a gust of warm Mediterranean air flooding your senses with a perfume of flowers and wild maquis.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $39

Thierry Germain Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny, Loire 2018 750ML ($31.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 Thierry Germain Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny, Loire 2018 750ML ($359.95) $239 special (that’s only $19.92/bottle!)
No reviews available for the 2018. Review for the 2016 provided for reference.
Grapelive 91 points
“I love [Thierry Germain’s] wines, especially the Cabernet Franc bottlings, like this Cuvee Domaine, they always show fresh, clean lines, energy and pretty aromatics with the older vine parcels and crus showing deeper concentration and power. Germain’s goal, as [importer Kermit] Lynch puts it, is to produce Cabernet (Franc) with purity, finesse, and drinkability, while avoiding rusticity, vegetal character, and hard tannins, which in my experience he does often and well… The Cuvee Domaine comes from a mix of parcels ranging from 5 to 70 years old set on classic sand, clay and Tuffeau Limestone, which drives the vibrancy and lifts the floral bouquet, with 100% de-stemmed grapes fermented in all stainless steel tanks with a minimum of lees contact and just under six months total of elevage in a combination of tank and large neutral wood casks. Like the Les Roches (blue label) the Cuvee Domaine is meant to be a quaffer, but still serious in character and surprisingly with enough structure to age for a decade or more, especially in a vintage like this 2016, with its concentration of fruit and natural acidity, since Thierry picks on the earlier side. The Cuvee Domaine…is only native yeast fermented and the vines are…in the heart of AOC, which are, as mentioned, all biodynamic, making for a very natural expression with a dark and earthy personality. Uplifting layers of black cherry, plum and mulberry fruits lead the way with a touch of crushed raspberry, minty herb, a classic pyrasine green bell pepper note, crushed chalk, a faint hint of cedar and loamy earthy wrapped in a ripe form and soft tannins, this is an impressive medium bodied Cab Franc to enjoy sooner versus later, be sure to look for this fine effort.”

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We’re offering a new case-6 price on this classically styled Fleurie!
Coudert Pere Clos de la Roilette Fleurie, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($34.95) $24 special
Case-6 Coudert Pere Clos de la Roilette Fleurie, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($159.95) $129 special (that’s only $21.50/bottle!)
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points
“Bottled only a week before I tasted it, Alain Coudert’s 2019 Fleurie from the Clos de la Roilette is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of rose petals, red cherries, raspberries, spices and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, deep and velvety, it’s elegant and fine-boned, with lively acids, refined structuring tannins and a long, perfumed finish. Readers who gravitate toward classical styles of Beaujolais will prefer the 2019 to the richer, more gourmand 2018, but both are lovely vintages for this reference-point address.”


“A genial gourmet, Daniel-Etienne Defaix is one of Chablis’s personalities, and his wines are no less characterful. He releases his sapid, gourmand expressions of Chablis at maturity—that’s to say, some 15 years after everyone else in the region….These are textural, complex wines that evoke the white Burgundies of yesteryear, and they may confuse consumers habituated to the tart, brittle, processed wines that are often passed off as expressions of region’s “terroir.” Their potential to develop in bottle and their capacity to pair with a thrilling variety of foods, however, make them fascinating, at least to this writer. Much of the production is sold to France’s best restaurants, but what reaches the export market is well worth seeking out.” – William Kelley, Wine Advocate

Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Les Lys, Chablis Premier Cru 2005 750ML ($64.95) $52.50 special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 93 points
“Dramatic aromas of blanched almonds, beeswax, honey and preserved lemon introduce the 2005 Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys, a full-bodied, textural wine that’s rich, concentrated and structured, with a tight-knit core, tangy acids and a stony finish. Like Defaix’s other 2005s, it’s very much in its prime and will be well worth seeking out when it reaches the marketplace.”
Grapelive 93 points “Daniel-Etienne Defaix … continues [his family’s] tradition of wine growing, which has been working the vines around Chablis since the 1500s. He manages 26 hectares planted exclusively to Chardonnay, which most all there vines in a selection of Premier Crus. Defaix, a natural minded vigneron whose family is from Avallon, not far from Chablis, he uses largely self-taught methods to craft his wines with ideas passed down and learned from his own experiences. His severe selections of grapes and his long fermentations highlight his deft and gentle touch in the cellar, which shows here in his latest release of Les Lys from the 2005 vintage. [This] is a gorgeous Chablis with incredible texture, mineral notes, remarkable lively character from this warm vintage and polished depth. This 2005 gives a subtle floral perfume, hints liquid rock, clarified cream, apple, pear and lemon preserves as well as wet stone (chalk), acacia honey, hazelnut and lingering fleshiness of form. It is a seamless Chardonnay of great class and detail. The Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys comes from a monopole plot known as ‘Clos du Roi’ and the average age of the vines is close to 45 years. [The vines are planted] on a sloping hillsides that has a near perfect southwest exposure allowing warm ripe flavors and richness, while the Kimmeridgian (limestone) soils give fabulous structure, acidity and minerallity. Daniel Defaix ferments 100% de-stemmed grapes in stainless steel tank using 100% natural yeasts at cold temps, which takes close to three weeks, and then the wine is rested almost three years on the lees, again in stainless (only) and goes through natural malos, then racked again back to stainless tanks to aged up to ten years before bottling! The results are amazing and this 2005, which shows the benefits of that regime and the age delivers a great performance in the glass with a sexy layered mouth feel and secondary elements beginning to shine through. The ‘Les Lys’ Premier Cru vineyard, part of the Vaillons, is located on the left bank of the Serein River, overlooking the villages of Chablis and Milly, making for an intriguing terroir, one of the most rare in the series of Premier Crus from Chablis and with a stony personality, but with a softer tone than some of neighboring sites. This Defaix version is wonderfully elegant, especially now.”


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