Monday August 11th Newsletter

Located in Gaiole in Chianti, Badia a Coltibuono, or “The Abbey of good harvest,” has a history that dates back to 1051, to the Vallombrosan order of monks, whose fine abbey (‘Badia’ ) still stands proud at the heart of the wine property. Since 1846, the Stucchi Prinetti family has been master of the estate, balancing history and innovation to create one of Chianti Classico’s best-loved wineries. Today, the estate is composed of vineyards, chestnut and olive trees, all of them lying on one of the best sites in the Chianti area, where the soil is very rich and the climate is mild and sunny all year round.  With an ancient stock of Sangiovese clones, which they have used to replant key sites, Badia a Coltibuono’s philosophical approach is to maintain both the integrity of Sangiovese and the unique terroir of Chianti Classico through organic farming practices, clonal diversity and restrained use of new oak barrels. The present generation, siblings Emanuela, Roberto, Paolo & Guido, run the estate and are very proud to produce some of Tuscany’s finest wines.

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura 2012 ($11.95) $9.90 special
Case-12 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura 2012 ($119.95) $89 special
Winery notes (translated) “… bright, intense ruby ​​red color and is expressed on the nose with aromas of cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and cloves. The taste is full, balanced, full-bodied and soft, with excellent structure. The acidity is well balanced, clean and persistent aftertaste.”

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USA-OREGON
Witness Tree Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2012 ($31.95) $27 specialMcKinlay Ladd Hill Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2012 ($37.95) $33 special
McKinlay Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2013 ($19.95) $16 special

Patricia Green Cellars Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2012 ($34.95) $29 special
Josh Raynolds 92 points

“Brilliant ruby.  Highly perfumed bouquet evokes candied red fruits, rose oil, musky underbrush and cola, with a sexy Asian spice overtone.  Takes a darker turn on the palate, offering sweet blackberry and floral pastille flavors and a touch of candied licorice.  Spicy, penetrating and appealingly sweet on the subtly tannic finish, with the berry and cola notes echoing strongly.”
USA-CALIFORNIA
Bucklin Old Hill Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County 2011 ($34.95) $28 special

FRANCE-BURGUNDY
Domaine Sangouard-Guyot Pouilly-Fuisse Quintessence 2012 ($29.95) $24 special

Domaine Servin Petit Chablis Sur Les Clos 2013 ($24.95) $21.90 special

FRANCE-BEAUJOLAIS
Fabien Duperray Domaine Jules Desjourneys L’Interdit 2008 ($39.95) $29 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “The wine that will be known as 2008 Desjourneys is none other than Duperray’s 2008 Fleurie–combining Chapelle des Bois and Les Moriers–that was refused appellation and so is officially, merely, “vin de France.” Believe me, this is “vin de France” in the same sense that Debussy signed many of his late masterpieces “musicien francais.” The high-toned floral, herbal, and fruit distillate esters that memorably marked the Chapelle des Bois from cask as well as the black tea-tinged and more bittersweetly herbal and concentrated dark berries of the original Les Moriers, have been preserved in this marriage-in fact, after recovering from my chagrin at this wine’s having been denied its rightful appellation, I am now entirely reconciled to the two sites having been blended, inasmuch as the whole seems, remarkably, even greater than the sum of its already profoundly delicious parts! This finishes with mouthwatering salinity and a tenacious, almost Gewurztraminer-like meld of brown spices concentrated floral and herbal essences. I would anticipate it being worth following for half a dozen years, but on no account should it be missed earlier-on.”

FRANCE-LOIRE
Jean-Paul Picard Sancerre Le Chemin de Marloup Blanc 2013 ($24.95) $21.90 special

Jean-Paul Picard Sancerre Le Chemin de Marloup Rose 2013 ($24.95) $21.90 special
Stephen Tanzer 89 points “Bright orange-pink.  Fresh, mineral-accented red berry, pink grapefruit and floral scents, along with a note of white pepper.  Dry and racy on the palate, offering bitter citrus pith and strawberry flavors that put on weight with air.  Finishes with good lift and length, leaving a hint of candied rose behind.” ST

ITALY-PIEDMONT
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($41.95) $33 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2010 Barbaresco is anything but a -base- Barbaresco says Renato Vacca. It is assembled from fruit sourced in Barbaresco and Neive but grapes are specially selected to make this wine. It opens to a light garnet color and Burgundian aromas of small berries, blue flowers and light spice. There-s a delicate touch of toasted pine nut at the back. Fruit from Nieve contributes more power, heft and color. Fruit from the Barbaresco township renders a sense of elegance and finesse. These wines are not clarified or filtered. Drink: 2017-2028. Renato Vacca releases his Barbaresco one year later than most and is extremely excited about 2010. I visited him on a beautiful spring day as his elderly father fumbled with a ladder to pick fruit off a cherry tree in the background. Renato and his family once sold fruit to Produttori del Barbaresco before Cantina del Pino was founded in 1997. The winery was built in 2000 and Renato introduced the Albesani cru in 2005 to offer contrast to the wine he is best known for, the Barbaresco Ovello. Together he farms five single vineyards in Neive and Barbaresco (Starderi, Albesani, Gallina and Ovello) and makes three expressions of Barbaresco.”

Vietti Rocche, Barolo DOCG 2010 1.5 LITER ($499.95) $419 special
Antonio Galloni 99 points “A wine of exquisite beauty, the 2010 Barolo Rocche is pure silk on the palate. The 2010 is incredibly dense, dark and powerful for a young Rocche. With time in the glass, the Rocche opens up nicely, showing the full breadth of its potential and pedigree. Stunning in the glass and impeccable throughout, the 2010 Rocche is firing on all cylinders. Sweet rose petals, mint, spices and licorice are woven into the breathtaking, perfumed finish.”

Vietti Castiglione, Barolo DOCG 2010 375ML ($31.95) $27 special
Stephen Tanzer 91(+?) points “Captivating nose combines raspberry, truffle, earth, coffee, tobacco and a positive herbaceous note.  Dense and rich but youthfully imploded, with bright acidity energizing the flavors of minerals, mocha and humus.  The long, echoing finish features building ripe tannins and considerable incipient complexity.”

Marchesi di Barolo ‘Barolo’ DOCG 2007 ($59.95) $47 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “This is harmonious and round, with cherry, floral, leather and tobacco flavors. Though supple, there’s also a firm grip of tannins. Lingers on the finish, but will benefit from more time in the bottle. Best from 2015 through 2028. 750 cases made.”

ITALY-VENETO
Lamberti Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry NV ($17.95) $14 special

Twin brothers Jim and Bob Varner founded the Varner Winery after years of study and experience in the industry.  Jim studied oenology in the 1970s at U. C. Davis and worked for Souverain.  He was interested in creating an estate in a cooler climate to best recreate Burgundian style wines.  With assistance, he decided to work in the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA.  His brother, Bob, joined Jim once he found a site, and together they planted two acres of Chardonnay on ungrafted roots, naming it Home Block since it was close to the estate’s house.  The second site was named Amphitheater Block, and was also planted with ungrafted vines.  Bee Block was planted a few years later with cuttings from Home Block on resistant roots.  They began producing their own wine in 1996, after several years of selling grapes to local producers.  Bob is the winemaker.The vineyards are dry farmed with extensive canopy management to help the grapes mature properly.  They use no insecticides.  During harvest, their first pass through the vineyard is to eliminate bad grapes.  They harvest at night when the grapes are cool.  The grapes are sorted and soaked with small amounts of whole clusters before fermentation is allowed to begin with natural yeasts.  The wine is aged first in stainless then aged in 1/3 new oak and 2/3 old oak barrels from Allier and Toncais.

The Foxglove wines are produced from grapes grown in Santa Barbara and Paso Robles.  Reviewers are calling them some of the best values out of California.  The Chardonnay is a blend of UC Davis Clone 4 and Dijon Clones.  The wine has richness from lees stirring but does not undergo malolactic fermentation.  The Zinfandel has 2% Petit Syrah blended in to add some spiciness.  Both red wines were fermented completely destemmed.

Varner Wine Amphitheater Block Spring Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2012 ($59.95) $49 special
Varner Wine Bee Block Spring Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2012 ($59.95) $49 special
Varner Home Block Spring Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2012 ($59.95) $49 specialVarner Wine Foxglove Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2012 ($17.95) $16 special
Antonio Galloni 88 points “Foxglove’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon is without question one of the finest values in California. Dark red cherry, plum, grilled herbs, smoke and tobacco are some of the many notes that inform this vibrant, polished impeccable Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards in Paso Robles. Aging in steel keeps the flavors fresh and vibrant throughout.”

Varner Wine Foxglove Zinfandel Paso Robles 2012 ($17.95) $16 special
Antonio Galloni 89 points “The 2012 Zinfandel is gorgeous. Sweet red berries, leather, mint, tobacco and cedar are some of the notes that emerge from the glass in a floral, unoaked Zinfandel with distinct Pinot-inflected overtones. This is another superb value from Foxglove.”

One of the most famous wineries in Nuits St Georges, Domaine Henri Gouges was founded at the beginning of the 1900’s by Henri Gouges who, along with the Marquis d’Angerville, helped to re-define the original Crus classifications of 1861, and one of the first winemakers to begin bottling his own wine. In the 1930’s Monsieur Gouges as one of the people charged with the job of delineating the crus in Burgundy for the Institute Nationale d’ Appellation d’Origine, and he was a member of that regulatory body at its outset.Today, the estate is run by cousins Pierre and Christian Gouges, grandsons of the original Henri, with the next generation now joining in, all working to carry on the traditions of the family, which has been estate-bottling for fifty years.  The domaine consists of 14.5 hectares of vineyards, including holdings in 6 Nuits St. Georges 1er Crus.  Pierre and Christian work to produce the complex, structured wines that brought the Gouges winery to fame.The harvest is entirely destemmed and vinification takes place in cement vats before transferring to small oak barrels for maturing, the duration of which varies with each vintage. These are wines made for aging, the villages Nuits St Georges and the Les Porrets are possibly the most approachable in their youth, and reward the patience required with powerful flavor.

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges 2010 750ml ($69.95) $44 special 12+ bottles availableDomaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges 2011 375ml ($39.95) $33 special 8 half bottles available
Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges 2011 750ml ($69.95) $55 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 87-89 points

“Good bright, deep red.  Strong animal reduction along with black and red fruits on the nose.  Silky and supple for a Nuits villages owing to ripe acidity, with a lovely restrained sweetness to its dark fruit flavors.  Finishes with suave tannins and good breadth and length.  Very nicely balanced.”Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Les Chaignots Premier Cru2010 ($89.95) $64 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 88-91 points ” The round, supple and already readily accessible medium-bodied flavors possess subtle spice notes before the expected punch and focus arrives on the finish where everything immediately tightens up on the mouth coating finish. This is one of those wines that will very likely drink well all of its life.”

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Les Chaignots Premier Cru 2011 ($99.95) $79 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points “Bright medium red.  Precise aromas and flavors of blackberry, violet, licorice, minerals and musky chocolate.  Juicy and sharply delineated, with noteworthy intensity of flavor.  Spreads out nicely and vibrates on the long, firm finish.”

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Les Chenes Carteaux Premier Cru 2010 ($69.95) $59 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 89-92 points ” This is also quite supple and relatively forward but the middle weight flavors retain good delineation and excellent complexity on the persistent finish. This is presently on the tangy side though I attribute this more to the presence of substantial amounts of gas rather than under ripe phenolics. This should amply reward 10 to 12 years of cellar time.”

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Les Chenes Carteaux Premier Cru 2011 ($79.95) $69 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 89-92 points “A discreet touch of wood surround the ripe and well-layered mix of red berry fruit scents that are liberally laced with earth and underbrush nuances. There is good ripeness to the suave, even seductive middle weight flavors that possess really lovely depth on the persistent, balanced and harmonious finish. This is really quite good and worth considering.”

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St Georges Les Pruliers Premier Cru 2011 ($99.95) $89 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright medium red.  Reticent high-toned aromas of slightly jammy red fruits and earth.  Sweet and ripe; richer and deeper than the Porrets Saint-Georges, with silky red cherry, currant and spice flavors enlivened by pungent peppery acidity.  Nicely balanced, round wine with good buffering extract.”

Domaine Henri Gouges NSG Clos Des Porrets St Georges Monopole Premier Cru 2011 ($89.95) $79 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Bright medium red.  Liqueur-like aromas of cherry and raspberry.  Sweet red fruit and spice flavors are lifted by notes of rose petal, herbs and pepper.  Has the freshness and balance to give early pleasure.  Finishes with lingering pepper-and-spice perfume and very good length.”

Marchesi di Barolo 2007 ($59.95) $47 staff pick special
“This estate was donated to charity in the mid-1800s when the current owners left no heirs.  The 2007 comes from a warm vintage, which is very approachable in comparison to the 2006.  The wine is a great option for someone looking to drink it now without the mouth-stripping tannins of cooler or too-young vintages.  It shows dried cherry and plum notes with classic red floral and leathery aromas.  A great pairing for rich meat stews, grilled ribeye or roast pork shoulder.”

Saint Cosme Cotes Du Rhone 2013 ($14.95) $11.90 staff pick special
“Beautiful medium-bodied Rhone. Strong fruit flavors from Grenache are balanced out beautifully with a healthy dose of Syrah, providing subtle earthy notes and a hint of black pepper. Excellent quality for the price for your next steak night.”

Spotlight On:
Remelluri Rioja

The Remelluri estate has a long and distinguished history, which dates back to the 14^th century when Hieronymite monks built a farm and sanctuary.  When they left the site in the 15^th century, local hermits maintained the shrine and a communal organization Real Divisa managed the farm.  Ancient wine presses carved into the stone around the hills remains as one of the oldest winemaking artifacts in the Rioja.  The estate was sold in 1845 during political unrest in Spain.  It was resold in 1967 when Jaime Rodriguez Salis purchased the estate’s vineyards.  His son, Telmo Rodriguez, was the winemaker during the 1990s.  He left on good terms to work on other projects but has recently returned to take over the estate.  Telmo is among the most heralded winemakers in Spain.

The vineyards are on the south-facing slopes of the Sierra de Toloño Mountains overlooking the valleys of Valderemelluri, La Granja and Villaescusaat.  These are some of the highest elevations in the region.  The valleys help protect the vineyards from frost and wind.  The soil is mostly limestone with clay and calcareous deposits dating back to the Quaternary Period.  Organic farming practices have always been utilized here to ensure that the wine remains true to its unique terroir. Hedges are maintained and nurtured, with trees planted to complement the vineyard, such as almond, peach, fig and olive trees, which also facilitate pollination of the vines, as the flowers attract bees.

All of the grapes are hand harvested and the grapes are hand sorted during and after harvest.  The wines are fermented with naturally occurring yeasts.  Each plot of land determined to have a unique microclimate is vinified separately.  The Gran Reserva is produced only in the best vintages and from the best plots within the vineyards.  It is primarily Tempranillo with Garnacha Graciano, Moscatel, Viura and Malvasia.  It is matured in barrels of various size and age for twenty-seven months.  The red wine is made from a similar blend of grapes and is aged for 17 months in barrels.  The white wine is a blend of nine different grape varieties.  The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak. The Lindes de Remelluri (“Borders of Remelluri”) is made from grapes traditionally sold to the estate and sourced from village vineyards in Labastida and San Vicente de La Sonsierra surrounding the estate.  It is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Viura that was aged in French oak for one year.

Remelluri Rioja Blanco 2009 ($89.95) $69 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “(made from a blend of garnacha blanca, roussanne, marsanne, viognier, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, moscatel and petit courbut):  Bright yellow.  A heady, complex bouquet evokes candied citrus fruits, pear skin, honey, vanilla and ginger, with a spicy overtone.  Deeply pitched orange and poached pear flavors show very good breadth and are braced and lifted by tangy acidity.  Closes on a gently sweet note, with impressive power and lingering spiciness.  This wine is delicious now but it also has the concentration to reward mid-term cellaring.”

Remelluri Lindes De Remelluri Labastida 2010 ($34.95) $29 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Saturated ruby.  Blackcurrant, smoky minerals and potpourri on the highly perfumed nose.  Silky and sweet on entry, then packed with juicy dark fruit complicated by floral pastilles and a hint of blood orange.  Powerful but lithe, with seamless texture, fine-grained tannins and impressive energy on the finish.”

Remelluri Lindes De Remelluri Rioja 2009 ($29.95) $24 special 8 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright ruby-red.  Sexy, floral-accented aromas of candied red fruits, cherry-cola and Asian spices, with slow-building tobacco and licorice nuances.  Fleshy and expansive on the palate, offering sweet cherry and black raspberry flavors and a touch of cracked pepper.  Finishes with very good energy and length, leaving floral and cola notes behind.”

Remelluri Lindes De Remelluri San Vicente 2010 ($34.95) $29 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Glass-staining ruby.  Heady aromas of boysenberry, cassis, fennel and pipe tobacco, with a sexy vanilla undertone.  Lush, velvety and sweet in the mouth, with sexy flavors of black and blue fruit preserves, licorice and floral pastilles.  A fleshy, powerful but shockingly energetic Rioja, with supple tannins framing a long, sweet finish.”

Remelluri Rioja 2008 ($39.95) $33 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(mostly tempranillo, with garnacha, graciano, viura and malvasia):  Ruby-red.  Redcurrant, cherry, rose pastille and spicecake on the highly perfumed nose and in the mouth.  Silky, sweet and penetrating, with slow-building tannins and excellent finishing cut and length.  A very successful wine for this difficult vintage, and it’s built to reward at least another ten years of aging.”

Remelluri Rioja Gran Reserva 2005 ($89.95) $79 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2005 Gran Reserva is the first since 1999 selected from the best casks, where it is aged for 25 months in used French and American oak. It has a wonderful, wild mint-scented bouquet with hints of licorice and white fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannins that bolster its vaulted structure. It has very good weight with grippy, dry, tertiary tannins towards the long finish. It will need several years in the cellar. Drink 2016-2025.”

Remelluri Rioja Reserva 2009 ($39.95) $31.90 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2009 Remelluri Reserva aims at showing the character of Remelluri, as this is the first modern vintage that does not have grapes purchased from external suppliers. These grapes are now in the Lindes range of wines, but in the past they were blended with the estate grapes. The cool Remelluri vineyards behave very well in warmer years. This 2009 is very clean with predominant aromas of earthy red fruit intermixed with notes of vanilla and cinnamon, a satin texture with round, fine-grained tannins and quite classical and very well-proportioned style. This is a great vintage for Remelluri Reserva.”

Location, Location, Location
The Treasure of Chablis

Pre-historic oyster shells.  100 miles North of Beaune.  7 Grand Cru’s.  Chalk. Limestone.  Jurassic period.
Geology is the true secret when it comes to exemplifying the purest expression of the Chardonnay grape, and Chablis is the region where the magic happens.   It’s all in the dirt, folks.   Kimmeridgian and Portlandian soils to be exact; made up of limestone, chalk, and tiny fossilized oyster shells dating back over 150 million years ago.  A sea full of calcium sediments disappeared after the Jurassic period, and the subsequent ice age channeled out valleys in the sedimentary rocks, forming the present topography.

Lying closer to Champagne than to the rest of Burgundy, Chablis experiences a cool climate, needing exceptional conditions in order to succeed.   Being so far from the equator enhances the danger of spring frost damage, with the chance of production varying considerably from year to year.  The influential soils allow the vines to soak up all the minerals through established root systems, while enabling the sunlight to reflect off the ground and onto the leaves.   Chablis is an incredibly distinct representation of the Chardonnay variety and has rightfully gained the reputation it deserves.

Arguably the best and qualifying as Chablis Grand Cru are seven west-facing vineyards; Les Clos, Blanchots, Bougros, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur and Vaudesir.   These top vineyards offer a remarkable combination of minerality and austerity, with outstanding aging capabilities.  Les Clos has held the reputation of delivering the most power, and displays a richness unlike the others.   The least stony in character is Les Preuses, with a tendency to be riper and rounder. Valmur is bountiful, yet fragrant, and Vaudesir is known for it’s elegance and finesse.  Slightly less austere than the other Grand Cru’s is Bougros, expressing great minerality and a style more approachable when young.

We are featuring two wonderful producers in Chablis, with exemplary representations of these Grand Cru’s.  Descended from his family that has lived in the region for over 250 years, William Fevre works passionately with these ancient soils to truly express their delicate nuances and the individual characteristics of each climat. From generation to generation, Dauvissat is known for their legacy of demonstrating classic tradition with a defined and pure approach.  Natural farming, meticulous vineyard care with minimal vine treatments and strict hand harvesting practices come together to show some of the finest examples from the ancient soils.  Let’s celebrate these beautiful, one of a kind representations of the classic, King of white wine grapes, Chardonnay!

Domaine Servin Petit Chablis Sur Les Clos 2013 ($24.95) $21.90 special 12+ bottles available
Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir Decouverte 2012 ($29.95) $26 special 1 bottle available

Domaine Laurent Tribut Chablis Beauroy Premier Cru 2011 ($44.95) $36 special 8 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points “Reticent nose hints at grapefruit, crushed stone and menthol.  Juicy, spicy and rather round, with citrus and stone flavors opening in the glass.  Ultimately sweeter and softer than the Cote de Lechet, and nicely concentrated for the year.  This wine has been in older barrels for the past three months; it will be racked and assembled in September.”

Christian Moreau Chablis Clos des Hospices Les Clos Grand Cru 2011 ($99.95) $75 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Expressive yellow stone fruits, spices, graphite and subtle French oak flow from the 2011 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices. Hints of slate, smoke and oyster shells come to life on the beautifully delineated finish. There is great energy in the glass, but this is an infant. Here, too, I have a slight preference for the 2011 over the 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

Domaine Faiveley Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2011 ($79.95) $66 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 92 points “A classic Les Clos nose of oyster shell, white flowers and wet stone leads to intensely mineral-inflected and broad-shouldered flavors that display cuts-like-a-knife delineation before culminating in a clean and very dry finish. There is a note of petrol to the finish that adds to the unmistakable Chablis character.”

Domaine Faiveley Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2011 ($74.95) $59 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 91 points “This offers markedly better complexity on the cool and pure aromas of iodine, tidal pool and white orchard fruit. There is fine intensity to the attractively mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that are at once succulent yet precise, all wrapped in a harmonious and beautifully lingering finish.”

Thomas Pico Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 2012 ($31.95) $28 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Full straw color.  Orange oil and spices on the nose, with a leesy nuance and a suggestion of honeyed ripeness.  Rich, spicy and concentrated, with ripe stone and soft citrus fruit flavors framed by harmonious acidity and an element of dusty stone.  Ripe, pliant, tactile village wine with lovely shimmering energy on the back end.  This would be perfect with oysters.”

Thomas Pico Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis Les Beauregards Premier Cru 2012  ($44.95) $41.90 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Pale yellow-gold.  Aromas of orange zest and spices are complicated by a trace of nutty lees.  Plump, broad, spicy and sweet, showing fine-grained, open-knit flavors of very ripe peach and soft citrus fruits.  Distinctly sweeter than the Cote de Jouan but the dusty, tactile finish displays precise notes of tangerine and minerals.”

Thomas Pico Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis Butteaux Premier Cru 2012 ($44.95) $41.90 special 12+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Pale yellow-gold.  Cooler and more reticent on the nose than the Beauregard, offering hints of orange zest, ginger and crushed stone.  Then surprisingly plush and broad, showing sexy floral lift to the mineral and spice flavors.  Turns more taut on the back end than the Beauregard, finishing tactile, long and extract-rich, with bright lemon and spice notes and noteworthy breadth.”

Thomas Pico Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis Cotes de Jouan Premier Cru 2012 ($44.95) $41.90 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-91+ points “Through vintage 2011, the wines were raised in older barriques, but beginning with 2012, Pico has introduced some new demi-muids crafted in France and Austria (from French oak). From barrel, the Pattes Loup 2012 Chablis Cotes de Jouan delivers a chalky, bright lemony, piquantly fruit pit-tinged performance that searches every recess of one-s palate, then leaves it feeling cleansed and invigoratingly scoured even as mineral, citric and cyanic notes deposit a long-lasting and mouthwatering residue. Look for a run of excitingly intense if potentially sparely-textured performances through at least 2020. ”

Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $219 special 5 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points “(these vines were planted in 1970):  Reticent aromas of citrus zest, warm stones, baked bread and white flowers.  The palate offers compelling sucrosite perfectly buffered by a bright lemon flavor and an underlying crushed-rock character that stands in for the wine’s average acidity.  Very young but already long on personality.  Finishes with piquant saline and stone notes.”

Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $219 special 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 96 points “Pale yellow.  Bracing aromas of lemon, ginger, chalk and spices.  At once dense and penetrating, with outstanding citric cut to the complex, slightly high-toned flavors of lemon zest, white pepper, minerals and subtle resiny spices.  Here, too, the wine’s intense chalky character gives it an impression of stronger acidity than the numbers would suggest.  Boasts terrific fruit intensity, and the wonderfully precise finish goes on and on.  A great showing today, and one of the superstars of the vintage.”

William Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru 2010 ($89.95) $79 special 7 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “A restrained nose of citrus, floral, mineral reduction and algae slides into impressively rich, powerful, serious and concentrated flavors that are almost painfully intense on the explosive and strikingly long finish. This is a classic Bougros with its robust and muscular big-bodied flavors.”

William Fevre Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru 2009 ($99.95) $89 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Chablis Les Preuses is one of the most complete wines in this lineup. It possesses striking delineation of aromas and flavors, with nuance after nuance that emerge in the glass. It is another of the weightless wines here in that it is full of flavor but never heavy. Intense notes of minerality and smokiness grace the textured, sublime finish. This is a fabulous effort from Fevre and Didier Seguier. The Preuses is made from two parcels; the first an east-facing steep slope, the second a flatter parcel richer in clay with a southwest exposure. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. ”
Burghound 95 points “discreet touch of wood sets off fresh, cool and reserved aromas that are elegant, airy and citrusy before merging into rich, intense, pure and admirably precise medium-bodied flavors that possess really lovely balance and superb length. While there is also an almost invisible hint of wood on the backend, it should be absorbed quickly and overall, this is a spherical wine of perfect proportions and class.”

William Fevre Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru 2009 ($89.95) $79 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 94 points “A mildly exotic and atypically reticent nose that is ripe yet airy showcases aromas of orange peel, peach and hints of roasted nut and iodine, before leading to rich, even opulent medium plus weight flavors that are delicious, round and strikingly persistent on the mouth coating and moderately austere finish. This has really come together since I last saw it and like the Bougros, this is quite a bit more refined than I’m used to seeing. An excellent example.”

William Fevre Chablis Vaudesir Grand Cru 2010 ($89.95) $79 special 8 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2010 Chablis Vaudesir is pure class and elegance. Layers of subtle, perfumed fruit caress the palate in this highly expressive Chablis. Everything is in the right place. The 2010 is all about subtlety. This is one of the more finessed Fevre 2010s. I love the balance of aromatics, fruit and acidity. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

Willaim Fevre Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru 2004 ($179.95) $149 special 12+ bottles available
Burghound 95 points “Stylistically, this closely resembles the Valmur with its ultra elegant and pure aromas featuring white flowers, oyster shell and subtle spice notes that perfectly complement the round, powerful, rich and full-bodied flavors that coating the mouth and culminate in a saliva-inducing, incredibly intense finish that reminded me more than a little of a great Corton-Charlemagne. This just oozes minerality and the texture is minerally to the point of this resembling a block of stone. A great Les Clos”

William Fevre Chablis Valmur Grand Cru 2010 ($109.95) $89 special 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2010 Chablis Valmur captures the essence of the vintage. It represents everything Chablis is and can be. Gunflint, slate, oyster shells, white flowers and citrus are just some of the many notes that emerge from this finely sculpted, chiseled wine. In 2010, the Valmur possesses stunning nuance and tons of delineation. It finishes with notable persistence and an element of austerity that is not totally typical of Valmur, but that is, nevertheless, highly appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

William Fevre Chablis Vaulorent Premier Cru 2010 ($74.95) $59 special 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2010 Chablis Vaulorent is striking. It shows plenty of richness but very little in the way of excess  weight. There is plenty of depth waiting to emerge from this expressive, mineral-drenched Chablis. Mint, flowers and white stone fruits wrap around the pure, beautifully delineated finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013+.”

 

 

Capcanes Mas Donis Negre Montsant 2012 ($19.95) $18 special
Robert Parker 94 points “Another baby Priorato, the 2012 Mas Donis, a custom cuvee from Eric Solomon, is composed of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah aged nine months in both new and used French and American oak. The Grenache comes from 70-year-old vines, and the Syrah from 30-year-old vines. It is difficult to find a better value than this incredibly rich effort. The bouquet offers up a smorgasbord of aromas, including crushed rocks, spring flowers, kirsch liqueur and blacker fruits. Full-bodied with a velvety, voluptuous texture, and admirable opulence, density, purity and texture… Consume it over the next year.”